Literally exactly how mine sounds/feels. Was running fine, then one day it wasn't. Just installed the Slavens idle screw which actually smoothed out idling, but this sensor is the next step. Wish I saw this before I put the bike back together heh. Wondering how many guys out there went down the rabbit hole and purchased ecu's etc... Thank you for the video!
Thanks for video. On my 2020 ktm xcw (50 hours) had same issue. The screws were T20. Also snapped the brass crankcase connector removing it - be careful if you do this. It was clean and removal not necessary
Thanks for posting this!!! I've had issues with a low end bog on my bike (2020 KTM 250XCW) from day one. I did this fix and my bike finally works as it should.
My 2020 TX300I had this problem. Dealer I bought it from was less than no help. Eventually I bought the Coober ECU which made the bike rideable. Wish I would have known about this sensor issue last year. Thanks for the video though!! Nice job.
It's really hard to find on which page on the microfiche it is, even for KTM dealers. "Crankcase Pressure Sensor CCP Part # 55641075000". The short of it is my 2020 XC-W 300 ran flawlessly for 34 hours and the sensor failed almost instantaneously. Did the swap and it ran great immediately. Thanks for the great video that quickly got me to the root of my problem.
Wow man you're a life saver. just completely fixed my bike. I was so close to using this POS KTM as a target stand at the shooting range. My 2019 300TPI ran so damn well that at 150 hours I sold it and bought a new 2020 250 TPI and could not have been more upset with how shitty this bike was. It fouled over 20 plugs within the first 10 hours. KTM dealer said there was nothing they could do. So damn frustrating these sensors can be bad from day 1.
My 2020 300xc tpi started this shit today actually. But it’s at 145 hours. Has been the best running bike I’ve ever owned until today. I’ve fouled 2 plugs. Luckily I have a new ccsp on deck and it’s going in tomorrow as soon as I washed it. I guess I got lucky getting 145 hours out of mine. Some people I know didn’t get 10, 20 hours out of them.
Mine started doing this tonight during a race, 99% of the course was tight 2nd gear stuff and it was a sputtering mess. This video confirmed my suspicion of a faulty ccps. Now, I just hope my dealer or RMATV has one in stock!
Im still riding a 2017 TE300 with carby and have been holding off buying a new one because so many guys are having similar problems with the tpi... and the dealers seem to shrug their shoulders and say oh well. Not great service,so a big thanks mate for sharing this vid it seems like its helped a ton of people. Husky and KTM need to sort this out and stop using paying customers as guinea pigs...
GREAT VIDEO!!!! I’m buying a new KTM 300 XC-W in late January 2021. Being a new owner of a TPI bike, can you edit a new video with the riding footage back to back? I’m not smart enough to hear the difference sliding back and forth in the video. I can’t tell you how many KTM/TPI BIKE videos I have watched to be knowledgeable of what I’m getting into. I’m glad I found this and hit the subscribe button, happy riding.
Sad part is dealers are clueless when you even bring it up. Which is bs to begin with. This was my son's bike from day one, was told that's just how they run. I did the carburetor idle screw mod from Slavens, that cleaned it up big time. Bought two sensors for good measure, holy crap his bike runs like a 2 stroke is supposed to.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to post this. My tpi only has 4hrs and is ok ..... but if it starts running like a blubbery carbed bike, l know what to do! Subscribed. 👍
Thanks for the video. There are several videos about the issue with the CCP sensor, but if its the same as the AAP, why only the first one fails on all those bikes? So can you help me out with these questions: - did yo change anything on the engine before the issue?(air bypass screw, power valve spring tension?). - did you try to "reset" the engine before doing anything? - how was inside the hose towards the CCP? - did you try to clean the CCP? - and last, how do you know is the CCP and not the AAP? Hope you can help me with these doubts, thanks!
The way the ECU utilizes the sensors is completely different, despite them being identical. The CCP is used for constant adjustment of low-rpm fueling, the MAP sensor is used to determine altitude. The requirements on the sensors are substantially different. The CCP is getting a constantly fluctuating signal from dirty air coming from the crankcase, the MAP gets a fairly constant signal of clean air. I made no changes before noticing the issue. A new CCPS fixed it completely. Resets did not. My hose and fitting were totally clean. I could tell which was the culprit because after swapping them, I replaced the one I moved to the MAP position and it had no impact at all. All this has been repeated by numerous people on ktmtalk with the same results.
My runs exactly like that so I’ll have to give this fix a try. Why does it run well when you switched them? Seems like you’d need to ambient air sensor working as well
Looking for some advice! Any recommendations is very much respected! My 2020 ktm 250 tpi 250xcw bike with roughly 100 hours has never been worked on till I purchased it at around 70 hours. Other then a fmf fatty expansion chamber. When I bought the bike it ran perfectly. Then about a month later it started having a weak idle. It would die on a long downhill with the clutch pulled in. I done the idle screw mod in the bottom of the throttle body and got it idling good. Now I feel like the bike is bogging more in the low end. I adjusted the air bypass screw to where the bike feels the best an its around 6 turns out. I heard that is too many an something else must be wrong with it. The bike runs amazing on the high end. Iv heard of the crank pressure sensor giving people bogging issues but it was on the higher end of rpms. Mine seems to have lost the low end grunt but barley enough to notice.
If you watched the vid, I state that a bad CCPS symptom is bogging/stuttering down low. It doesn't affect higher RPMs. Replace it, and it'll fix your issue.
At 145 hours I think mine is finally going out on my 300xc tpi. What’s weird is it’s fouling plugs. Could the CCSP cause that. All the symptoms are exactly the same. Minus the 2 fouled plugs. Could it be that it’s been going out for a while and finally just started it’s symptoms today? I was going down the trail today and it started it. Then sputtered so bad it died. Wouldn’t crank back. Pulled the plug, fouled. Put a new plug in, rode about 30 miles back to the truck. Symptoms going in and out. Keep in mind this has been the best running bike I’ve ever had and have never had an issue with it. After I put the new plug in the symptoms came and went. Also keep in mind that the plug it fouled today was brand new too. First ride on it. It’s got me stumped, but has to be the CCSP.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I’ll let you know. I’ve had a spare since I bought the bike new, but never needed it. … until now lol. I guess 145 hours out of the stock ccsp is better than what other people have gotten. I’ve seen them be bad on first crank lol.
@@WASemiHardEnduro definitely fixed it, but I’m not convinced it was the sensor. I changed it just in case, but when I took the little hose and fitting off, the hose was clogged a bit with some carbon buildup. Either way it’s fixed tho. I thought the job was gonna be harder than it was leaving the little tray on the oil tank, but it wasn’t bad at all.
@@MAXlMUS yep. When I replaced the sensor I cleaned out the hose and it was probably 50-75 percent stopped up. Probably wasn’t even the sensor but I replaced it anyway.
Anyone check the CCPS output voltage on the signal wire? Would be interesting to know what a good reading vs bad reading is at lower engine speeds. Curious if there is soot/spooge buildup in the sensor itself preventing an accurate reading at lower pressures. The sensor is potted, would be super interesting if a little dip in an ultrasonic tank wouldn't clean out the goo. I would not totally submerge the sensor, keep the electrical connector out of the bath. For a tank solution just water with a 1/4 cup of simple green, much more gentle than a shot of carb or brake cleaner.
Wow thanks for this video! I had tried to adjust the 'idle screw' on my 21 te250i for a touch higher idle but found the next time out it was just super sputtery at initial throttle like yours. Figured it was just from adjusting the screw, but putting it back to stock (or anywhere else for that matter) doesn't help at all. Been on a few rides and am always bummed out bc it was damn near perfect, except the low idle, but I know theres the screw mod for that. Thinking the ccps is likely my issue. At 30 hours now. Thanks.
Curious when swapping the (hopefully good) ambient air sensor into the crankcase sensor spot (suppose that’s fixes the sputtering)why then does bike not behave poorly with a bad sensor in the ambient spot? Is it bc you’re elevation etc likely hasn’t changed and is stored in computer? Thx!
Based on testing by a number of ppl, it seems like when a sensor "goes bad", it's due to it losing some transient response; not because it simply doesn't work anymore. When reading a static pressure, the "bad" sensor gives the same reading as a good sensor, so on the bench it's indistinguishable. When measuring crankcase pressure, the pressure changes dramatically several times a second, from vacuum to positive pressure. Whereas when measuring ambient pressure, the variation is much slower. There's something about how the ECU used the CCPS signal that makes it more sensitive to issues (maybe it's reading an avg signal, or it's taking a reading only at TDC for example, nobody seems to know).
Mine was failing from new and when I swapped them the other one lasted a couple hours. I have glued them and it's the best its ever run and it's been about 10hrs.
What do you mean you glued them? Tokyo Offroad has made a machined brass CCPS adapter with a modified CCPS mounting tray. As some of the trays the CCPS mounts too crack.
Great video, I might of missed it. What are symptoms of bad ambient/ baro sensor? I don't have the symptoms of CCPS but I have a good amount of spooge when with massive elevation changes and temp changes. I have a 2020 TX 300 TPI with 130 hours. I separated my shoulder and just changed the piston. I think I could of stuck with 150-155 hours as with my 2017. Thanks.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I did order one to swap about and see if it changes anything. I have the original update/ flash that came with the bike 10/18/19. Thanks for getting back this way. I am surprised how little info I can find on this. I will spend some time playing around once my shoulder is better. We found some fun stuff in WA, some tough stuff too!
Is anyone cranking their engine over with the plug in the exhaust after cleaning? I have a feeling that could build enough pressure on an electric start bike to fail the sensor. Can pressure build in the crankcase when the wash plug is in it and you crank it over?
Now that these are all sold out, i have an interesting question for you. The sensor on your title screen, 5wk9700z, is actually the pressure sensor out of a land rover. It definitely looks the same. Do you know if this is the same sensor as the OEM KTM version? I don't see that number off the one that I removed from my bike. Thanks.
Have you done a teardown of the sensor to see if it was impacted by debris on the sensor diaphragm? maybe difficult to tear down and keep the integral components intact, just curious of the cause of the failure
I cut one open - it's very hard to tell why it failed. There was barely any debris, but there was some. I used MAF sensor cleaner on another, didn't notice any difference. Some ppl have reported success in doing this though.
@WA Semi-Hard Enduro sorry one more question. I keep getting mixed answers on it, but would a fmf turbine core mess up the tuning of the bike? None of these issues were present before, and there is a lot of splooge for a supposedly lean running bike. I plan on getting the head kit and tuning done eventually, but just started an apprenticeship, so I gotta wait for a couple more raises lol.
hello, for a few laps I feel that my 300 tpi is slower in revving and it seems to have less power, I thought it was because it's very cold but now I'm evaluating the problem you describe in the video, what do you think? Do you also feel a slight decrease in power in cold weather? the bike has 40 hours.
Hello guys, when you had problem with this sensor CCP maybe you had a problem with a spark plug at the same time? Since about 10 hours (total mileage 43h - KTM EXC300 TPI MY2020) I have a problem with a spark plug, it looks like too rich mixture. The spark plug is black and a little wet, when I clean it up, bike runs and start normally - I replaced them about 3 times, because I thought that is broken, but cleaning helped, spark plug works fine - NGK BR7ES (the owner manual say that my spark plug can be used interchangeably with a NGK ZGR7GI-13G). I've got an additional idle screw mode in my bike if this an importatnt information. Thanks for any tips ;)
Man those trails look like the perfect PNW dirt. From what I've seen, most of my friends 2019+ TPIs have had an issue with poor mileage. Like around 40 miles per tank is all they're getting. They always took lots of extra fuel when riding the mountains.
This test is just a way to determine if you need to change them. Since my bike ran better with the sensors swapped, I knew I needed to get a new one (the bad sensor was in the CCPS position, and after swapping it was in the ambient position). I replaced the bad sensor at 16 hours. Then the replacement also went bad at about 34 hours.
@@WASemiHardEnduro thank you very kind, mine too has begun to give problems with 80 hours, the candle wets me at minimum and is very greasy under torque, I will also try to reverse them and eventually replace one of the two.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I can't decide if my '20 sounds more like the first clip, or the second clip. But I've never worried about it before. But thanks for the vid I'll keep it in mind when I get back on the bike in the spring!
I am a Korean and it is winter here, so it is cold. One day, my motorcycle, which has only traveled 600km, suddenly stalls at first start and struggles at low RPMs before suddenly revving up. I replaced the crankcase sensor, which improved the symptoms by about 50%. What repair should I do next?"
is your new sensor still good? do they all go bad after a while? if they are both the same kind of sensor then do both need replaced? how would you know if ambient pressure sensor is faulty?
I’ve been having to replace my CCPS almost every 15hrs, but I’m also pretty sensitive to any stuttering. It cures it every time. Ambient sensor shouldn’t go bad ever. If you swap them and the bike runs better, then replace the sensor that is bad (the one you put into the ambient position).
@@thepatternforms859 🤷🏻♂️ Nobody seems to know for sure. Dirty air from the crankcase is the leading theory. But some people seem to never have issues...
Anyone tried cleaning their sensor with Electric Cleaner or something? Spraying that inside their sensor? Or will that ruin it? I have these exact symptoms on my KTM 300 2021 with 32h on it - will try the swap but I've already ordered two spares...
Are idea on any ways to see the issue without swapping the parts? Like using sensor data through a scan tool? I am trying to figure out if there is any ways to diag these sensors without just swapping parts around. I have had to put two of them in mine, once at 10 hours and once at 52 hours.
A obd2 scanner cannot seem to read the sensor output directly - only a calculated value from the ECU. It’s also not clear how exactly the sensors are failing e.g. what a failed voltage output is vs normal.
I think mine has failed at 75 hours ('21 TE300). Started noticing it at about 60 hours but it bad at 75 at low throttle AND 3/4 throttle. Gonna swap my sensors and find out.
Update. my sensors were fine. It turns out my issue was a very dirty spark arrestor screen. Crazy! Very similar symptoms that is described by the CCPS failing. I learned something new as this my first 2-stroke (I owned 4-strokes before) and I only cleaned the screen once. So it all clogged-up at about 75 hours. I removed it for a test ride and she's back! Used a torch to burn it off. It caught fire like a sterno can and burned for 2 minutes!
I have a KTM 300 TPI 2018, the bike works well, when I go up to 600 meters of altitude, it has a vacuum at 1 / 8-1 / 4 of throttle opening ... it can be the sensor or it is a characteristic of the 18-19 models ??
So after you swap them are you replacing the Ambient air sensor with a new sensor so that both of them are good? Or do you not really need the ambient air sensor?
Yes, this test will tell you pretty quickly that one sensor is bad, and you would need to now replace the bad one. It seems to run fine w/ the bad sensor in the barometric position, but it probably won't handle changes in altitude well if you leave the bad one in place.
@@WASemiHardEnduro thanks for answering, my exhaust has suddenly become loud, as if the insulation has deteriorated, or as it was running very dry (metallic sound). Bike has only 70 hours and I rode it like my grandma would, so I doubt it needs a top end rebuild. I was more likely to believe in a faulty sensor that messes up the petrol mix. I watched a few videos about it but I can't hear the sound properly and I don't seem to have similar symptoms, my bike does not bog a low revs, but behaves erratically when you release the throttle at high revs, it feels like you lose power for an instant, but in acceleration it doesn't have any issues and pulls strong
@@philipsmith6152 You have to press the tray down to gain access to the torx bolt. I found one hand pushing it down from the left side, with the other hand coming in straight down from the top/right of the frame with the torx driver worked well.
Unreal. I thought it was a feature of modern 2-strokes to have a strange bog at low RPM for emissions, but this swap changed everything about power delivery. 80 hrs in and I am only just now experiencing the correct low end. I'm curious though as to why this is still happening (my bike is a 2022). I saw that part numbers haven't changed. Anyone done anything to fix these sensors such as a silicone seal?
Seems they go bad due to contamination from the crankcase. Which you can’t exactly prevent. Though some folks seem to have success adding a small filter inline. Doesn’t explain why many have zero issues at all though. The part # hasn’t changed, and it looks like the ‘23 TBI bikes might still use the same sensor, but in a different setup.
I've tried them, and yes they "work". But they don't seem to work exactly the same as the OEM ktm part. When I ran the 5wk9700z, it seemed to make the bike run super lean.
Thank you for your feedback signal! How many hours have you driven it? Is there an alternative to the OEM part or have you already tried something else?
The TBIs are definitely different than TPI. Some I’ve heard come pretty rich. Maybe you can play with the TPS a bit, or maybe the dealer has an ecu update.
So I had that issue and also it wouldn't idle. So I swapped and the idle fixed it self and the sputter disappeared... On the street. I replaced the bad (now) Ambi sensor since it was easy access. Should be good right? 2 months later I take it out for trail riding. However, the idle is still good but now I have the lower rpm sputter sticking around. It seems the sputter and idle problem go hand in hand but now I'm not sure....
Lots of possible issues: clogged CCPS hose (or leaky fitting), cracked fuel filter (in-tank), clogged fuel filter, dirty air filter, blocked gas tank vent hose, stuck power valve, top end need replacing, bad ground connection somewhere, etc.
BOTH your sensors could be bad - replace. The CCPS hose could be blocked or have a small leak - inspect and clean. Check all the other stuff (spark plug, air filter, fuel filters, etc).
I've got 2021 husqvarna te 150i. The issue that I have is that in the middle of RPM (just before the high RPM an power kick) the engine starts to interrupts. Only when I slowly accelerate. Any ideas?
Same here - 2022 TE 150i. It's my first 2T bike, ridden 350 exc-f in the past. TBH, I don't know how these bikes should feel like, but mine has 5 hours now, and since new, it sputters somewhere just before it hits the powerband. It's extremely annoying - I thought this is how a 2T should feel like
Swapped the sensors, same issue... Eventually, I bought a tachometer and adjusted the airbypass until the engine was idling as the manual says - 1400-1500 and now it seems to run better. Still, I am not convinced the sensors are bad - what would be the chance for a brand new bike to have 2 new faulty sensors? It just doesn't add up
My bike starts to run like that when it gets hot. Any Ideas why that would be? When the sensor fails does the bike always run sputtery? My bike runs really good tell I start working it in hard enduro and then once its hot it runs terrible.
@@WASemiHardEnduro My bike is stock, no mods runs perfect when I trail ride. When I ride extreme and it gets really hot it starts to bog and run sputtery and rich. Seems to start to do it earlier into the extreme stuff than before now. Probably over 200 hrs, on my second top end.
Remove tank. Using a T15 torx driver, press the front of the tray down that is holding the CCPS. This will give you enough room to get to the torx bolt holding it. That’s it. It’s way easier than it looks.
I have a question, that hopefully someone can answer. I have a 21 KTM 250 xc tpi, with about 24 hours on it. I have done the idle screw mod, and have been trying to dial it in. The idle was way too low stock, and the bike would often try to die when going down hills or braking into turns. I was able to fix that, but a problem I have noticed now is surging on deceleration or "pipe bang" as many across the forums call it. This happens when I full close the throttle and coast. If I am rolling with the clutch out, each time the rpm surges it actually makes the bike lurch forward a bit. Does anybody have any clue what may be causing this? Some have said the bike being too rich, while some have said the TPS is misaligned or not set properly. The bike does have the bulletproof designs TPS cover, which does require fully removing the tps sensor from the throttle body to install. I bought the bike used with that on it, and in order to disconnect the tps sensor so that I could do the idle screw mod you have to remove the tps cover, which of course removes the entire sensor from the throttle body. Any insight/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Could be that you have the idle too high now. Shoot for 1600 rpm or so, but not higher. TPS should be ~0.60v but not much higher. A bad CCPS can cause a low idle too. Lastly, some TPIs just babe pipe bang. Mine does a little but not too bad - never been able to get rid of it completely.
@@WASemiHardEnduro Thanks for the advice, I think you may be right. Yesterday I turned the idle way down. Bike wouldn’t stay running unless I gave it some gas. To my surprise, when riding the bike, pipe bang was completely gone. Gonna have to actually measure the voltage at the TPS I suppose. Just out of curiosity where do you have your air screw set? I would assume you tune the air screw first and then set the idle since the air screw affects the idle too?
I heard that the crank case sensor fails way more often than the ambient pressure sensor. Would you recommenc swapping the sensors as part of preventive maintenance on like 100h of riding time?
@@WASemiHardEnduro how can I check if its this part if I only have one? Thanks for your help!! I think its this, I have change piston, cleaned exhaust valve, changed the spring valve and nothing worked...
@@WASemiHardEnduro it just turned off while im riding 2 times and i can start the engine after the engine off but idk why the bike turned off while riding the spark plug has 10 hours
@@WASemiHardEnduro if i start my bike it smokes, and if i give a bit of throttle it boggs and sometimes dies and then won't start again til i put a new sparkplug in. And sometimes it's rideble but u need to keep a bit of throttle otherwise it dies.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I can buy it in USA as you did, but with air freight costs (FedEx), currency etc it would land in AU at AUD$194, so getting it at the dealer for $202 was really neither here nor there. Only way, to live in the USA lol
It’s all good to fix a problem but it pisses me off that KTM don’t come to the party and offer any assistance. I’ve been dealing with this shit for years with them. Don’t get me wrong I love ktms and keep buying them but the amount of issues is now pretty substantial and the price of new bikes getting ridiculous. I think a class action of some sort would wake these idiot Austrians up and stop using the general public as RND. This year no more KTM for me. Other manufacturers are right up there now and some euro brands are close to 2 grand Australian cheaper.
At 145 hours I think mine is finally going out on my 300xc tpi. What’s weird is it’s fouling plugs. Could the CCSP cause that. All the symptoms are exactly the same. Minus the 2 fouled plugs. Could it be that it’s been going out for a while and finally just started it’s symptoms today? I was going down the trail today and it started it. Then sputtered so bad it died. Wouldn’t crank back. Pulled the plug, fouled. Put a new plug in, rode about 30 miles back to the truck. Symptoms going in and out. Keep in mind this has been the best running bike I’ve ever had and have never had an issue with it. After I put the new plug in the symptoms came and went. Also keep in mind that the plug it fouled today was brand new too. First ride on it. It’s got me stumped, but has to be the CCSP.
Literally exactly how mine sounds/feels. Was running fine, then one day it wasn't. Just installed the Slavens idle screw which actually smoothed out idling, but this sensor is the next step. Wish I saw this before I put the bike back together heh. Wondering how many guys out there went down the rabbit hole and purchased ecu's etc...
Thank you for the video!
Did it work ?
Thanks for video. On my 2020 ktm xcw (50 hours) had same issue. The screws were T20. Also snapped the brass crankcase connector removing it - be careful if you do this. It was clean and removal not necessary
Thanks for posting this!!! I've had issues with a low end bog on my bike (2020 KTM 250XCW) from day one. I did this fix and my bike finally works as it should.
My 2020 TX300I had this problem. Dealer I bought it from was less than no help. Eventually I bought the Coober ECU which made the bike rideable. Wish I would have known about this sensor issue last year. Thanks for the video though!! Nice job.
It's really hard to find on which page on the microfiche it is, even for KTM dealers. "Crankcase Pressure Sensor CCP Part # 55641075000". The short of it is my 2020 XC-W 300 ran flawlessly for 34 hours and the sensor failed almost instantaneously. Did the swap and it ran great immediately. Thanks for the great video that quickly got me to the root of my problem.
I found both of them on the diagram for the oil tank, it was a pain to find though.
Wow man you're a life saver. just completely fixed my bike. I was so close to using this POS KTM as a target stand at the shooting range. My 2019 300TPI ran so damn well that at 150 hours I sold it and bought a new 2020 250 TPI and could not have been more upset with how shitty this bike was. It fouled over 20 plugs within the first 10 hours. KTM dealer said there was nothing they could do. So damn frustrating these sensors can be bad from day 1.
Super happy it helped! It’s frustrating that even the dealers don’t know how to fix.
My 2020 300xc tpi started this shit today actually. But it’s at 145 hours. Has been the best running bike I’ve ever owned until today. I’ve fouled 2 plugs. Luckily I have a new ccsp on deck and it’s going in tomorrow as soon as I washed it. I guess I got lucky getting 145 hours out of mine. Some people I know didn’t get 10, 20 hours out of them.
Just wondering if the sensor fixed the issue your having with fouling and the stuttering? Have a 250tpi doing funny stuff and it’s driving me nuts.
Mine started doing this tonight during a race, 99% of the course was tight 2nd gear stuff and it was a sputtering mess. This video confirmed my suspicion of a faulty ccps. Now, I just hope my dealer or RMATV has one in stock!
Thanks for sharing this, it’s good to hear TPI feedback like this from likeminded riders in the PNW
Im still riding a 2017 TE300 with carby and have been holding off buying a new one because so many guys are having similar problems with the tpi... and the dealers seem to shrug their shoulders and say oh well.
Not great service,so a big thanks mate for sharing this vid it seems like its helped a ton of people.
Husky and KTM need to sort this out and stop using paying customers as guinea pigs...
GREAT VIDEO!!!! I’m buying a new KTM 300 XC-W in late January 2021. Being a new owner of a TPI bike, can you edit a new video with the riding footage back to back? I’m not smart enough to hear the difference sliding back and forth in the video. I can’t tell you how many KTM/TPI BIKE videos I have watched to be knowledgeable of what I’m getting into. I’m glad I found this and hit the subscribe button, happy riding.
You can hear the stuttering in the video - it's subtle, but if your bike is doing it you'll know it.
Sad part is dealers are clueless when you even bring it up. Which is bs to begin with. This was my son's bike from day one, was told that's just how they run. I did the carburetor idle screw mod from Slavens, that cleaned it up big time. Bought two sensors for good measure, holy crap his bike runs like a 2 stroke is supposed to.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to post this. My tpi only has 4hrs and is ok ..... but if it starts running like a blubbery carbed bike, l know what to do! Subscribed. 👍
I feel like you just saved my life, lol! Mine is doing the exact same thing at 11 hours. I was ready to run it off a cliff this weekend
I just did it and what a difference! Now I just need to get the new sensor for the ambient air. Thanks so much for this video
Awesome glad it helped!!
Thats why you should wait until its out for awhile so you can hear about problems before you buy it, that goes for any brand new vehicle technology
Thanks bro, I’m going to try switching the sensor to start.
Thanks for the video. There are several videos about the issue with the CCP sensor, but if its the same as the AAP, why only the first one fails on all those bikes? So can you help me out with these questions:
- did yo change anything on the engine before the issue?(air bypass screw, power valve spring tension?).
- did you try to "reset" the engine before doing anything?
- how was inside the hose towards the CCP?
- did you try to clean the CCP?
- and last, how do you know is the CCP and not the AAP?
Hope you can help me with these doubts, thanks!
The way the ECU utilizes the sensors is completely different, despite them being identical. The CCP is used for constant adjustment of low-rpm fueling, the MAP sensor is used to determine altitude. The requirements on the sensors are substantially different. The CCP is getting a constantly fluctuating signal from dirty air coming from the crankcase, the MAP gets a fairly constant signal of clean air.
I made no changes before noticing the issue. A new CCPS fixed it completely. Resets did not.
My hose and fitting were totally clean.
I could tell which was the culprit because after swapping them, I replaced the one I moved to the MAP position and it had no impact at all.
All this has been repeated by numerous people on ktmtalk with the same results.
@@WASemiHardEnduro thanks!!
Great video. The examples videos clearly show the difference.
Merci pour votre retour d'expérience... Good ride !
My runs exactly like that so I’ll have to give this fix a try. Why does it run well when you switched them? Seems like you’d need to ambient air sensor working as well
This type of videos are very good. Thank you for your good job. Gas 💪💪💪
Well, great tip for owners of these bikes
Looking for some advice! Any recommendations is very much respected! My 2020 ktm 250 tpi 250xcw bike with roughly 100 hours has never been worked on till I purchased it at around 70 hours. Other then a fmf fatty expansion chamber. When I bought the bike it ran perfectly. Then about a month later it started having a weak idle. It would die on a long downhill with the clutch pulled in. I done the idle screw mod in the bottom of the throttle body and got it idling good. Now I feel like the bike is bogging more in the low end. I adjusted the air bypass screw to where the bike feels the best an its around 6 turns out. I heard that is too many an something else must be wrong with it. The bike runs amazing on the high end. Iv heard of the crank pressure sensor giving people bogging issues but it was on the higher end of rpms. Mine seems to have lost the low end grunt but barley enough to notice.
If you watched the vid, I state that a bad CCPS symptom is bogging/stuttering down low. It doesn't affect higher RPMs. Replace it, and it'll fix your issue.
Hi there were can I get it with 40 dollars
In Europe they cost 100 euro
At 145 hours I think mine is finally going out on my 300xc tpi. What’s weird is it’s fouling plugs. Could the CCSP cause that. All the symptoms are exactly the same. Minus the 2 fouled plugs. Could it be that it’s been going out for a while and finally just started it’s symptoms today? I was going down the trail today and it started it. Then sputtered so bad it died. Wouldn’t crank back. Pulled the plug, fouled. Put a new plug in, rode about 30 miles back to the truck. Symptoms going in and out. Keep in mind this has been the best running bike I’ve ever had and have never had an issue with it. After I put the new plug in the symptoms came and went. Also keep in mind that the plug it fouled today was brand new too. First ride on it. It’s got me stumped, but has to be the CCSP.
Yup, plug fouling is a symptom for sure. Change it and reply back to let us know if it fixed it. 👍
@@WASemiHardEnduro I’ll let you know. I’ve had a spare since I bought the bike new, but never needed it. … until now lol. I guess 145 hours out of the stock ccsp is better than what other people have gotten. I’ve seen them be bad on first crank lol.
@@WASemiHardEnduro definitely fixed it, but I’m not convinced it was the sensor. I changed it just in case, but when I took the little hose and fitting off, the hose was clogged a bit with some carbon buildup. Either way it’s fixed tho. I thought the job was gonna be harder than it was leaving the little tray on the oil tank, but it wasn’t bad at all.
@@Drewski423 Clean the hose every time you replace the sensor
@@MAXlMUS yep. When I replaced the sensor I cleaned out the hose and it was probably 50-75 percent stopped up. Probably wasn’t even the sensor but I replaced it anyway.
Anyone check the CCPS output voltage on the signal wire? Would be interesting to know what a good reading vs bad reading is at lower engine speeds. Curious if there is soot/spooge buildup in the sensor itself preventing an accurate reading at lower pressures. The sensor is potted, would be super interesting if a little dip in an ultrasonic tank wouldn't clean out the goo. I would not totally submerge the sensor, keep the electrical connector out of the bath. For a tank solution just water with a 1/4 cup of simple green, much more gentle than a shot of carb or brake cleaner.
Wow thanks for this video! I had tried to adjust the 'idle screw' on my 21 te250i for a touch higher idle but found the next time out it was just super sputtery at initial throttle like yours. Figured it was just from adjusting the screw, but putting it back to stock (or anywhere else for that matter) doesn't help at all. Been on a few rides and am always bummed out bc it was damn near perfect, except the low idle, but I know theres the screw mod for that. Thinking the ccps is likely my issue. At 30 hours now. Thanks.
Curious when swapping the (hopefully good) ambient air sensor into the crankcase sensor spot (suppose that’s fixes the sputtering)why then does bike not behave poorly with a bad sensor in the ambient spot? Is it bc you’re elevation etc likely hasn’t changed and is stored in computer? Thx!
Based on testing by a number of ppl, it seems like when a sensor "goes bad", it's due to it losing some transient response; not because it simply doesn't work anymore. When reading a static pressure, the "bad" sensor gives the same reading as a good sensor, so on the bench it's indistinguishable. When measuring crankcase pressure, the pressure changes dramatically several times a second, from vacuum to positive pressure. Whereas when measuring ambient pressure, the variation is much slower. There's something about how the ECU used the CCPS signal that makes it more sensitive to issues (maybe it's reading an avg signal, or it's taking a reading only at TDC for example, nobody seems to know).
@@WASemiHardEnduro Ok awesome thanks for the explanation! Going to swap em and see... 🤞
@@WASemiHardEnduro Swapped em, issue resolved it seems! Thanks for the help..
Mine was failing from new and when I swapped them the other one lasted a couple hours. I have glued them and it's the best its ever run and it's been about 10hrs.
What do you mean you glued them?
Tokyo Offroad has made a machined brass CCPS adapter with a modified CCPS mounting tray. As some of the trays the CCPS mounts too crack.
Great video, I might of missed it. What are symptoms of bad ambient/ baro sensor? I don't have the symptoms of CCPS but I have a good amount of spooge when with massive elevation changes and temp changes. I have a 2020 TX 300 TPI with 130 hours. I separated my shoulder and just changed the piston. I think I could of stuck with 150-155 hours as with my 2017. Thanks.
I’m not really sure, but inconsistent running when drastically changing altitude would make sense. If in doubt, change it.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I did order one to swap about and see if it changes anything. I have the original update/ flash that came with the bike 10/18/19. Thanks for getting back this way. I am surprised how little info I can find on this. I will spend some time playing around once my shoulder is better. We found some fun stuff in WA, some tough stuff too!
Is anyone cranking their engine over with the plug in the exhaust after cleaning? I have a feeling that could build enough pressure on an electric start bike to fail the sensor. Can pressure build in the crankcase when the wash plug is in it and you crank it over?
Now that these are all sold out, i have an interesting question for you. The sensor on your title screen, 5wk9700z, is actually the pressure sensor out of a land rover. It definitely looks the same. Do you know if this is the same sensor as the OEM KTM version? I don't see that number off the one that I removed from my bike. Thanks.
Yes, it seems to be the same. I’m using one in the barometric position right now since oem are back ordered.
@@WASemiHardEnduro Thanks! i'd be curious if your bike still ran as well with it on the crankcase side.
@@tomtorrance9194 Yes, I’ve tried it. Runs fine.
Have you done a teardown of the sensor to see if it was impacted by debris on the sensor diaphragm? maybe difficult to tear down and keep the integral components intact, just curious of the cause of the failure
I cut one open - it's very hard to tell why it failed. There was barely any debris, but there was some. I used MAF sensor cleaner on another, didn't notice any difference. Some ppl have reported success in doing this though.
My mid range keeps bogging really bad and it's fouling plugs one after another. Would that be the ccp as well
Could be. It’s an easy part to replace and find out.
@WA Semi-Hard Enduro yea im gonna order one and a few plugs only 15 hours on it still lol
@WA Semi-Hard Enduro sorry one more question. I keep getting mixed answers on it, but would a fmf turbine core mess up the tuning of the bike? None of these issues were present before, and there is a lot of splooge for a supposedly lean running bike. I plan on getting the head kit and tuning done eventually, but just started an apprenticeship, so I gotta wait for a couple more raises lol.
@@jaredthompson8188 TC won’t affect it at all. A screen type sparky can tho if it’s clogged.
@WA Semi-Hard Enduro ok ill see if I can clean that spark arrestor, thanks for the quick responses much appreciated! 👍
hello, for a few laps I feel that my 300 tpi is slower in revving and it seems to have less power, I thought it was because it's very cold but now I'm evaluating the problem you describe in the video, what do you think? Do you also feel a slight decrease in power in cold weather? the bike has 40 hours.
so did you replace the ambient air sensor after this? Or both sensors? This fix got my bike to start and run better
Yes. Best thing is to replace the CCPS. Swapping them can be a good diagnostic test, but the proper fix is to replace the bad one.
Thankyou very much - exactly the same on my TE150i - exactly the same
Will sort it
Have since changed the sensor, bike is like brand new, instantly - thanks again
Hello guys, when you had problem with this sensor CCP maybe you had a problem with a spark plug at the same time? Since about 10 hours (total mileage 43h - KTM EXC300 TPI MY2020) I have a problem with a spark plug, it looks like too rich mixture. The spark plug is black and a little wet, when I clean it up, bike runs and start normally - I replaced them about 3 times, because I thought that is broken, but cleaning helped, spark plug works fine - NGK BR7ES (the owner manual say that my spark plug can be used interchangeably with a NGK ZGR7GI-13G). I've got an additional idle screw mode in my bike if this an importatnt information.
Thanks for any tips ;)
A bad CCPS can cause the bike to run poorly (rich), which will cause you to foul plugs more often.
Man those trails look like the perfect PNW dirt.
From what I've seen, most of my friends 2019+ TPIs have had an issue with poor mileage. Like around 40 miles per tank is all they're getting. They always took lots of extra fuel when riding the mountains.
But have you changed the crankcase sensor or the ambient sensor? Or both of them? How many hours did the sensors fail?
This test is just a way to determine if you need to change them. Since my bike ran better with the sensors swapped, I knew I needed to get a new one (the bad sensor was in the CCPS position, and after swapping it was in the ambient position). I replaced the bad sensor at 16 hours. Then the replacement also went bad at about 34 hours.
@@WASemiHardEnduro thank you very kind, mine too has begun to give problems with 80 hours, the candle wets me at minimum and is very greasy under torque, I will also try to reverse them and eventually replace one of the two.
Even in your first clip it still sounds cleaner than most carb bikes I've ridden. Am I just not hearing it right or what?
It's subtle for sure, but when you're used to it pulling clean from idle to redline, having that stutter is very annoying.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I can't decide if my '20 sounds more like the first clip, or the second clip. But I've never worried about it before. But thanks for the vid I'll keep it in mind when I get back on the bike in the spring!
Had to replace mine at around the 80 hour mark for the same reason.
I am a Korean and it is winter here, so it is cold. One day, my motorcycle, which has only traveled 600km, suddenly stalls at first start and struggles at low RPMs before suddenly revving up. I replaced the crankcase sensor, which improved the symptoms by about 50%. What repair should I do next?"
For TPIs check the spark plug, check for any air leaks (intake, exhaust, crank seals), check fuel pump and filters (leaks, cracks, low fuel pressure).
is your new sensor still good? do they all go bad after a while? if they are both the same kind of sensor then do both need replaced? how would you know if ambient pressure sensor is faulty?
I’ve been having to replace my CCPS almost every 15hrs, but I’m also pretty sensitive to any stuttering. It cures it every time.
Ambient sensor shouldn’t go bad ever. If you swap them and the bike runs better, then replace the sensor that is bad (the one you put into the ambient position).
@@WASemiHardEnduro what makes these sensors go bad every 15 hours?
@@thepatternforms859 🤷🏻♂️ Nobody seems to know for sure. Dirty air from the crankcase is the leading theory. But some people seem to never have issues...
@@WASemiHardEnduro 2021 here and no issues so far. This is really strange that it keeps going bad.
Hello friend, I have one Husqvarna 250 tpi 2020 and I have just had this problem in my motorbike with only 45 Hours.
Anyone tried cleaning their sensor with Electric Cleaner or something? Spraying that inside their sensor? Or will that ruin it? I have these exact symptoms on my KTM 300 2021 with 32h on it - will try the swap but I've already ordered two spares...
Are idea on any ways to see the issue without swapping the parts? Like using sensor data through a scan tool? I am trying to figure out if there is any ways to diag these sensors without just swapping parts around. I have had to put two of them in mine, once at 10 hours and once at 52 hours.
A obd2 scanner cannot seem to read the sensor output directly - only a calculated value from the ECU. It’s also not clear how exactly the sensors are failing e.g. what a failed voltage output is vs normal.
thanks man super helpful
Great vid!
Awesome trails btw!!
Did the bad one make it load up and run rich?
Yes
Will a low/poor idle happen too with a failing CCPS? cheers
Yes!
Thanks mate! I’ll be trying spark plug first then doing this test. Thanks heaps for the amazing video.
I think mine has failed at 75 hours ('21 TE300). Started noticing it at about 60 hours but it bad at 75 at low throttle AND 3/4 throttle. Gonna swap my sensors and find out.
Update. my sensors were fine. It turns out my issue was a very dirty spark arrestor screen. Crazy! Very similar symptoms that is described by the CCPS failing. I learned something new as this my first 2-stroke (I owned 4-strokes before) and I only cleaned the screen once. So it all clogged-up at about 75 hours. I removed it for a test ride and she's back! Used a torch to burn it off. It caught fire like a sterno can and burned for 2 minutes!
Sorry, I don't know English. You can explain your problem in more detail, I think I have the same problem as you
I wish someone would show how to get these out in detail. hard to see in there! and I dont want to remove stuff I dont need to remove
I have a KTM 300 TPI 2018, the bike works well, when I go up to 600 meters of altitude, it has a vacuum at 1 / 8-1 / 4 of throttle opening ... it can be the sensor or it is a characteristic of the 18-19 models ??
What do you mean it has a vacuum?
So after you swap them are you replacing the Ambient air sensor with a new sensor so that both of them are good? Or do you not really need the ambient air sensor?
Yes, this test will tell you pretty quickly that one sensor is bad, and you would need to now replace the bad one. It seems to run fine w/ the bad sensor in the barometric position, but it probably won't handle changes in altitude well if you leave the bad one in place.
Could a bad sensor cause a plug to foul?
Yes, potentially. Bad sensor seems to cause it to run rich.
Almost always do
Hi, did the exhaust note change when the sensor wasn't working?
It’s such a subtle and gradual change when a sensor goes out that it’s hard to tell. I can hear a difference in idle with a fresh sensor though!
@@WASemiHardEnduro thanks for answering, my exhaust has suddenly become loud, as if the insulation has deteriorated, or as it was running very dry (metallic sound). Bike has only 70 hours and I rode it like my grandma would, so I doubt it needs a top end rebuild. I was more likely to believe in a faulty sensor that messes up the petrol mix. I watched a few videos about it but I can't hear the sound properly and I don't seem to have similar symptoms, my bike does not bog a low revs, but behaves erratically when you release the throttle at high revs, it feels like you lose power for an instant, but in acceleration it doesn't have any issues and pulls strong
Got exactly the same prob, had the ecu remapped, did nothing, Will try this and see what happens
Good luck! It's easy to test at least. Comment again w/ an update if you get it resolved.
@@WASemiHardEnduro Was going to have a crack at it, cant work out how to get the ccp off, look like a big job, do you have a vid on how to remove it ?
This vid shows you how. T15 torx is all you need. Super easy. The tray it sits in it is flexible, you can bend it down to get easier access.
@@WASemiHardEnduro yes the one on the rh side is easy, the LH side is the one I cant get off ?? Cheers
@@philipsmith6152 You have to press the tray down to gain access to the torx bolt. I found one hand pushing it down from the left side, with the other hand coming in straight down from the top/right of the frame with the torx driver worked well.
Unreal. I thought it was a feature of modern 2-strokes to have a strange bog at low RPM for emissions, but this swap changed everything about power delivery. 80 hrs in and I am only just now experiencing the correct low end.
I'm curious though as to why this is still happening (my bike is a 2022). I saw that part numbers haven't changed. Anyone done anything to fix these sensors such as a silicone seal?
Seems they go bad due to contamination from the crankcase. Which you can’t exactly prevent. Though some folks seem to have success adding a small filter inline. Doesn’t explain why many have zero issues at all though. The part # hasn’t changed, and it looks like the ‘23 TBI bikes might still use the same sensor, but in a different setup.
Got this issue on my 2023 TE 300.. Damn annoying.
Hello super video! Does anyone know if you can also use the sensor with the part number 5wk9700z, or if it works the same way? Thanks
I've tried them, and yes they "work". But they don't seem to work exactly the same as the OEM ktm part. When I ran the 5wk9700z, it seemed to make the bike run super lean.
Thank you for your feedback signal! How many hours have you driven it? Is there an alternative to the OEM part or have you already tried something else?
@@FlorianGrafeneder-x3p I just use oem always now.
Do you need to replace both sensors?
Usually not, typically only the crankcase sensor goes bad. But if you're still having issues, you can try replacing the ambient sensor too.
I fouled 3 plug on my brand new straight out of the dealer ( 3 hours on it ) 2023 250SX i have no idea what the reason is
The TBIs are definitely different than TPI. Some I’ve heard come pretty rich. Maybe you can play with the TPS a bit, or maybe the dealer has an ecu update.
Brilliant video bud 😉
Thanks!
Hi I have a husqvarna 2022, my problem is that it consumes a lot of gassoline,and I don't understand what it can be ....please help me .
A bad CCPS could definitely cause poor fuel economy. Or bad coolant temp sensor, dirty air filter, etc.
So I had that issue and also it wouldn't idle. So I swapped and the idle fixed it self and the sputter disappeared... On the street. I replaced the bad (now) Ambi sensor since it was easy access. Should be good right? 2 months later I take it out for trail riding. However, the idle is still good but now I have the lower rpm sputter sticking around. It seems the sputter and idle problem go hand in hand but now I'm not sure....
I've had a sensor go bad in as little as 15 hours. No idea why they go bad so quickly sometimes, yet some people never have issues.
I have 300 tpi 3019 whit same problem .. what to do?? 110h
Replace the CCP sensor - should help.
Mine splutters just before the power band hits like it’s cold once it comes on the power it’s absolutely fine il try this
Did it solved the problem?
@@easymon2407 not tried it yet🫣
How long can I ride the bike after swapping sensors around? They are back-ordered until August
I replied to (I assume) you on TT. Probably fine to run it swapped for a while, but you might want to try a non-oem sensor while you wait.
So my bike is having this issue but it’s with throttle 3/4 to fully open. Runs strong down low. Any ideas?
Lots of possible issues: clogged CCPS hose (or leaky fitting), cracked fuel filter (in-tank), clogged fuel filter, dirty air filter, blocked gas tank vent hose, stuck power valve, top end need replacing, bad ground connection somewhere, etc.
@@WASemiHardEnduro Thanks man! Just broke my ankle but as soon as I can I’m going to start doing further diagnostics
My 300i still stutters even after swapping sensors. What should I do next?
BOTH your sensors could be bad - replace. The CCPS hose could be blocked or have a small leak - inspect and clean. Check all the other stuff (spark plug, air filter, fuel filters, etc).
I've got 2021 husqvarna te 150i. The issue that I have is that in the middle of RPM (just before the high RPM an power kick) the engine starts to interrupts. Only when I slowly accelerate. Any ideas?
Sounds like the CCPS might be the issue
Same here - 2022 TE 150i. It's my first 2T bike, ridden 350 exc-f in the past. TBH, I don't know how these bikes should feel like, but mine has 5 hours now, and since new, it sputters somewhere just before it hits the powerband. It's extremely annoying - I thought this is how a 2T should feel like
Swapped the sensors, same issue... Eventually, I bought a tachometer and adjusted the airbypass until the engine was idling as the manual says - 1400-1500 and now it seems to run better. Still, I am not convinced the sensors are bad - what would be the chance for a brand new bike to have 2 new faulty sensors? It just doesn't add up
My bike starts to run like that when it gets hot. Any Ideas why that would be? When the sensor fails does the bike always run sputtery? My bike runs really good tell I start working it in hard enduro and then once its hot it runs terrible.
What’s your air screw set to? Any mods?
@@WASemiHardEnduro My bike is stock, no mods runs perfect when I trail ride. When I ride extreme and it gets really hot it starts to bog and run sputtery and rich. Seems to start to do it earlier into the extreme stuff than before now. Probably over 200 hrs, on my second top end.
@@jbartziokas i have the same problem, 16 hours new bike gasgas ec 300
Anyone have a link to a video/tutorial on how to change out the crankcase pressure sensor?
More specifically, just the one under the oil tank...
Remove tank. Using a T15 torx driver, press the front of the tray down that is holding the CCPS. This will give you enough room to get to the torx bolt holding it.
That’s it. It’s way easier than it looks.
@@WASemiHardEnduro just the gas tank? Or by tank are you referring to the oil tank?
No need to touch the oil tank. Just remove the gas tank.
@@WASemiHardEnduro awesome - thanks!
I have a question, that hopefully someone can answer. I have a 21 KTM 250 xc tpi, with about 24 hours on it. I have done the idle screw mod, and have been trying to dial it in. The idle was way too low stock, and the bike would often try to die when going down hills or braking into turns. I was able to fix that, but a problem I have noticed now is surging on deceleration or "pipe bang" as many across the forums call it. This happens when I full close the throttle and coast. If I am rolling with the clutch out, each time the rpm surges it actually makes the bike lurch forward a bit. Does anybody have any clue what may be causing this? Some have said the bike being too rich, while some have said the TPS is misaligned or not set properly. The bike does have the bulletproof designs TPS cover, which does require fully removing the tps sensor from the throttle body to install. I bought the bike used with that on it, and in order to disconnect the tps sensor so that I could do the idle screw mod you have to remove the tps cover, which of course removes the entire sensor from the throttle body. Any insight/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Could be that you have the idle too high now. Shoot for 1600 rpm or so, but not higher. TPS should be ~0.60v but not much higher. A bad CCPS can cause a low idle too.
Lastly, some TPIs just babe pipe bang. Mine does a little but not too bad - never been able to get rid of it completely.
@@WASemiHardEnduro Thanks for the advice, I think you may be right. Yesterday I turned the idle way down. Bike wouldn’t stay running unless I gave it some gas. To my surprise, when riding the bike, pipe bang was completely gone. Gonna have to actually measure the voltage at the TPS I suppose. Just out of curiosity where do you have your air screw set? I would assume you tune the air screw first and then set the idle since the air screw affects the idle too?
@@spencerjohnson5474 I have my AS about 0.5 turn out.
I heard that the crank case sensor fails way more often than the ambient pressure sensor. Would you recommenc swapping the sensors as part of preventive maintenance on like 100h of riding time?
It’s a good idea to have a spare sensor on hand, but if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
Hello are they both sensor the same for a husqvarna te300?
2019***
The ‘19 only has one sensor. Same part number.
@@WASemiHardEnduro how can I check if its this part if I only have one? Thanks for your help!! I think its this, I have change piston, cleaned exhaust valve, changed the spring valve and nothing worked...
Does anyone know how to troubleshoot CCP for an 18/19 TPI which only has one sensor onboard?
Same as the new bikes. Usually a stuttery rich condition down low.
How many hours did you have on your bike when you this issue. I have a 2020 250 xc with 20 hours
Ive had a slight stutter since new, but it got worse at about 16 hours
I’m happy with my 2018 carbureted Te300 I did add the Lectron no issues at all. 😁
Thankfully I haven’t had to replace my carburetor....yet. :)
No reason to own a TPI bike except to support Euro emissions requirements while owning an inferior product.
how much did it cost Lectron?
@@nduro25rus55 it cost me $450 with the motion pro throttle and longer cable.
@@carlatamanczyk3891 You dont need tpi for euro emmision, thats only something KTM tries to convince you to. Even the new euro5 is reachable with carb
For 40 bucks I'm buying a spare, and I'm just gonna put it in.
I have ktm 300 tpi 2020 erzberg and the bike turned off while im riding it. And it Has 52 hours can anyone tell me what is the problem?
Could be 100 different things, need more info - what exactly is it doing?
@@WASemiHardEnduro it just turned off while im riding 2 times and i can start the engine after the engine off but idk why the bike turned off while riding the spark plug has 10 hours
So the pressure sensor was bad from the factory... Wow.
Merci boucoup
KTM needs to check their bikes
Only on the 20s and 21s for obvious reasons
Just got back from a disheartening ride, i think this is my issue
Sorry to hear - it's frustrating for sure! Hopefully this fixes it.
My bike doesn't keep running and smokes a bit
And I ride a 2020 xc250 tpi
With the TBI kit?
Need more info on what exactly it’s doing to help.
@@WASemiHardEnduro if i start my bike it smokes, and if i give a bit of throttle it boggs and sometimes dies and then won't start again til i put a new sparkplug in. And sometimes it's rideble but u need to keep a bit of throttle otherwise it dies.
@@hugomx5387 Replace the CCPS, spark plug. Then use proper warmup procedure - don’t touch the throttle until it’s warm.
@@WASemiHardEnduro i have put new ccps in there and the ambient air pressure sensor in there and stil it won't run probably
I cant hear any difference in engine sound. Literally every 2 stroke I've heard sound like this
$202 for same sensor in AUSTRALIA
That's crazy how big the price difference is.
@@WASemiHardEnduro I can buy it in USA as you did, but with air freight costs (FedEx), currency etc it would land in AU at AUD$194, so getting it at the dealer for $202 was really neither here nor there. Only way, to live in the USA lol
It’s all good to fix a problem but it pisses me off that KTM don’t come to the party and offer any assistance. I’ve been dealing with this shit for years with them. Don’t get me wrong I love ktms and keep buying them but the amount of issues is now pretty substantial and the price of new bikes getting ridiculous. I think a class action of some sort would wake these idiot Austrians up and stop using the general public as RND. This year no more KTM for me. Other manufacturers are right up there now and some euro brands are close to 2 grand Australian cheaper.
At 145 hours I think mine is finally going out on my 300xc tpi. What’s weird is it’s fouling plugs. Could the CCSP cause that. All the symptoms are exactly the same. Minus the 2 fouled plugs. Could it be that it’s been going out for a while and finally just started it’s symptoms today? I was going down the trail today and it started it. Then sputtered so bad it died. Wouldn’t crank back. Pulled the plug, fouled. Put a new plug in, rode about 30 miles back to the truck. Symptoms going in and out. Keep in mind this has been the best running bike I’ve ever had and have never had an issue with it. After I put the new plug in the symptoms came and went. Also keep in mind that the plug it fouled today was brand new too. First ride on it. It’s got me stumped, but has to be the CCSP.
Do you know if this would cause misfires while coming on the pipe at higher RPMs?
Not 100% sure, but it could be possible. Worth trying the swap to see if it goes away. Could also be how the power valve is adjusted too.