Ted I have the more robust input drive assembly. Unfortunately all over the internet including parts order diagrams this type of stepped input drive is not shown. Makes it difficult to know what to order as well as how it should assemble and what torque or rolling torque to set it with. I replaced the seal only to find out that the seal leaks oil into the bellow and I assume it was assembly possibly rolling torque or seal type related. A video on this would be a one of a kind as Ive looked high and low.
Sooo....What is the procedure for shimming the gears? I have the repair manual but videos always help more. I can't find a video on how to shim the gears.
Those are some of the videos I will be creating later this summer, I have a few alphas I need to rebuild and will make them when I get to those projects.
The newer style setup with the thicker housing. That’s the drive I’m working on and when I set the preload I set it to tight. Now I’m wondering if I have to unpress the bearing assembly. Can u make a video or tell me if the bearing needs to be un pressed. Or if I can just back off the nut and re do the preload
I carried it to a local dealer and he set the torque to 60 ftlbs so my assumption is that even though this is a pressed fit stepped design it torques down much the same way as the older slip fit design. What says you?
I'm working on my aplha 1 gen 1 currently and my repair manual 18-03200 states on page 10-18 to torque the nut down to 85 ft lbs. This is for all mercruiser sterndrives, even bravo. That is the preload setting for the driving gear. Doesn't state whether it's the same for the press fit bearing and gear though.
I have an Alpha 1 gen 2 built 2007. Can't read the serial Number on the drive. It's coupled with a 3.0 litre mercruiser. I suspect internal gear issues. Metal filings found on oil drain plug . Need to know the gear ratio of the drive . Can u advise on this. For parts or replace the lower drive unit. Thanks.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 . Thanks for your help. Just noticed the oil seal at the prop shaft - drive shaft is in back to front??. Like the videos you put up. Very informative 👏.
I want to ask a question how to use a measure the upper driven gear with SEI driven shimming tool same older one with x, y, and z letter on my 1985 Mercruiser MR upper drive older one only. I have to use my Clymer marine service manual. I have to work a rebuild my older 1985 Mercruiser MR upper drive.
Hello Ted. Very good videos. Can’t find the continuation of this series… When shimming (let’s talk about the driven gear) if I understand it correctly if the required clearance is not achieved then shim material is added to one side of the driveshaft (under the bearing race of that side) and an equal amount subtracted from the other side (from under the bearing race). So I am removing and reinstalling the bearing races multiple times (potentially)? The same would then go for the drive gear and the retainer nut?
On Alpha drives for the upper drive and driven gears if you have less than 0.025" feeler gauge then you would remove shims from under the driven gear to lower it and if the same is true for the drive (universal joint) gear you would add shims in front of the race to move it out.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Thank You Ted. The drawing has me confused I guess. In my mind the spacers are under the bearing cups (as in the exploded views) but actually they are under the race, not the cup. For the drive gear, they are in front of the race, not the cup. Correct? Thanks!
P.S. - I had my terminology completely wrong as well. The 'race' is not the cup, it is the actual bearing. My bad, too old, can't see, can't think, etc. Time for a nap.
Thx. I already had both out, but was focused on the driven gear since I could not find any shims anywhere I assumed they were under the bearing cups. Once I read your post this morning and realized my mistake on nomenclature I figured it out. Driven gear shims should be here Friday at which time I think I will have it solid in my mind. Again, thank you for your videos. Hope you are well and happy.
I tore my Alpha Gen 1 down just for inspection and seal replacement. Do I need to do the special measurements and re-shim or can I just re-use my original shims? No bearings or gears were changed. Thank you!
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 thank you for the reply. My understanding was that the 6 in lbs rolling torque preload step was only required when the small spacer has been removed (i.e. the bearings were updated to the new version that does not use the spacer).
@@mooseshartley yes you are correct. If memory serves me right, with the old 2 spacer set up the pinion nut was torqued to around 70 ft lbs so the gear position would stay the same. But with the new set up used bearings may have a different set position if you take it apart and reset it to 6" lbs. I always check gear position with the special too just to be sure.
So much knowledge thanks for sharing with us to carry on the next generation
Hi Ted, thanks for the great videos! Have you ever posted a video of the actual measuring process for shimming?
Ted I have the more robust input drive assembly. Unfortunately all over the internet including parts order diagrams this type of stepped input drive is not shown. Makes it difficult to know what to order as well as how it should assemble and what torque or rolling torque to set it with. I replaced the seal only to find out that the seal leaks oil into the bellow and I assume it was assembly possibly rolling torque or seal type related. A video on this would be a one of a kind as Ive looked high and low.
Sooo....What is the procedure for shimming the gears? I have the repair manual but videos always help more. I can't find a video on how to shim the gears.
Those are some of the videos I will be creating later this summer, I have a few alphas I need to rebuild and will make them when I get to those projects.
The newer style setup with the thicker housing. That’s the drive I’m working on and when I set the preload I set it to tight. Now I’m wondering if I have to unpress the bearing assembly. Can u make a video or tell me if the bearing needs to be un pressed. Or if I can just back off the nut and re do the preload
No, you must remove the bearing and try again.
Thank you Sir 👍😁
Your very welcome! Thanks for the positive feedback!
I carried it to a local dealer and he set the torque to 60 ftlbs so my assumption is that even though this is a pressed fit stepped design it torques down much the same way as the older slip fit design. What says you?
I'm working on my aplha 1 gen 1 currently and my repair manual 18-03200 states on page 10-18 to torque the nut down to 85 ft lbs. This is for all mercruiser sterndrives, even bravo. That is the preload setting for the driving gear. Doesn't state whether it's the same for the press fit bearing and gear though.
I have an Alpha 1 gen 2 built 2007.
Can't read the serial Number on the drive. It's coupled with a 3.0 litre mercruiser. I suspect internal gear issues. Metal filings found on oil drain plug . Need to know the gear ratio of the drive . Can u advise on this. For parts or replace the lower drive unit. Thanks.
Yes the 3.0l is coupled to a 1.98 ratio
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 . Thanks for your help. Just noticed the oil seal at the prop shaft - drive shaft is in back to front??. Like the videos you put up.
Very informative 👏.
I want to ask a question how to use a measure the upper driven gear with SEI driven shimming tool same older one with x, y, and z letter on my 1985 Mercruiser MR upper drive older one only. I have to use my Clymer marine service manual. I have to work a rebuild my older 1985 Mercruiser MR upper drive.
It's the same procedure as an alpha. Use the letter that matches the drive gear ratio
@@tedsmarinerepair8956I got it. Thanks Ted!
didn't show the actual measuring
Hello Ted. Very good videos. Can’t find the continuation of this series…
When shimming (let’s talk about the driven gear) if I understand it correctly if the required clearance is not achieved then shim material is added to one side of the driveshaft (under the bearing race of that side) and an equal amount subtracted from the other side (from under the bearing race). So I am removing and reinstalling the bearing races multiple times (potentially)? The same would then go for the drive gear and the retainer nut?
On Alpha drives for the upper drive and driven gears if you have less than 0.025" feeler gauge then you would remove shims from under the driven gear to lower it and if the same is true for the drive (universal joint) gear you would add shims in front of the race to move it out.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Thank You Ted. The drawing has me confused I guess. In my mind the spacers are under the bearing cups (as in the exploded views) but actually they are under the race, not the cup. For the drive gear, they are in front of the race, not the cup. Correct? Thanks!
P.S. - I had my terminology completely wrong as well. The 'race' is not the cup, it is the actual bearing. My bad, too old, can't see, can't think, etc. Time for a nap.
@johngragg3776 I think when you take it apart it will be easier to understand
Thx. I already had both out, but was focused on the driven gear since I could not find any shims anywhere I assumed they were under the bearing cups. Once I read your post this morning and realized my mistake on nomenclature I figured it out. Driven gear shims should be here Friday at which time I think I will have it solid in my mind. Again, thank you for your videos. Hope you are well and happy.
How much you think it would cost me to swap my gear ratio in my volvo penta sx-m cobra drive to accommodate a 383 stroker moto. That drive was on 3.0
Depends on the marina location. Due to labor costs. Or you could get a new upper half complete which would be easier.
@Teds Marine Repair I'm in Maine, and how much is the upper half cost?
I tore my Alpha Gen 1 down just for inspection and seal replacement. Do I need to do the special measurements and re-shim or can I just re-use my original shims? No bearings or gears were changed. Thank you!
Lower yes, upper no, you need to reset the input shaft rolling torque to 6 in lbs and check that gear position.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 thank you for the reply. My understanding was that the 6 in lbs rolling torque preload step was only required when the small spacer has been removed (i.e. the bearings were updated to the new version that does not use the spacer).
@@mooseshartley yes you are correct. If memory serves me right, with the old 2 spacer set up the pinion nut was torqued to around 70 ft lbs so the gear position would stay the same. But with the new set up used bearings may have a different set position if you take it apart and reset it to 6" lbs. I always check gear position with the special too just to be sure.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Thanks again. Your videos have been incredibly helpful.
@@mooseshartley got it, not changing the bearings or gears, just the seal with 2 spacers. Torque is 70 ft lbs.