Your videos made me sound proof all the car, change the cd player, change all the speakers and install a under seat subwoofer, all this in the wright way thanks to you! THANK YOU!
The space one is a big one. It is the one that got me. You say you don't know why, allow me to enlighten. Sometimes, when a poor person wants bass (lots of us here in Kansas), and they only have one car that is needed for work & shopping & leisure & all else & they have absolutely no possible way of ever trading or selling or acquiring a newer bigger vehicle because they make 9.00 an hour and their health prevents them from working full time, they simply work with what they have! This is compounded by someone who is maybe doing the install for the first time, and is already learning a TON of new info, the box size and car size simply gets overlooked! I installed bass in my Mustang. The cabin gain was quite significant! But step out of the car, and you'd think I had like one 10 inch Kicker. Not 2 Skar 12's. Only two twelve inch pre fab sub boxes would fit in my car. I picked the bigger one. It was too small for my subs. Sealed. They played high notes well and loud but low notes very muffled. Very soft. Moved this setup into my van. Immediately is much better in the same box even. Still cannot play lows good. I have a proper ported box being installed tomorrow. I can't wait. Thanks for your videos.
Here's a problem that you can maybe address in one of your future videos. The problem I am facing is that my high's cut out at higher volumes. I've re-done my entire stereo system from the head unit to the speakers to the subs and the amps. At high volumes the stereo sounds great, but at higher volumes the bass still hits, but the highs kind of get distorted, Why?
Hey. It looks to me that: 1: You are sending to much power to the tweeters. 2: Tweeters might be defect. There are other possibilities as why this might happen, so a bit more information on your system, will be appreciated. Ps. Please excuse my English, I'm not a native speaker.
another great vid Mark. I've been watching for years. are you Canadian? I ask because this is the most polite form of "I've already answered this question, go look", that I've seen on YT.
I have a Honda accord 2005 with upgraded twitters and rear 6x9 speakers and when I turn all way up it sounds loud with static and I feel like it factory radio was louder with no issues
Sound treatment is so inportant! Just sound dead my whole car and had a great audiosystem. Then I bought the exact the same car but with an higher hp engine. Then i installed the exact same audio system and I didnt have the time yet to sound treat it, and the sound is so different and worse, i knew it was inportant but not that important😅😅😂👍🏼
The AMP power gauge accidentally touched the casing of the capacitor and caused a small spark. Does that short circuit anything and affect the SUB and AMP?
Hey Mark, With more and more aluminum and even composite (fiberglass etc.) panels in cars these days, is there any different treatments that are more appropriate for these vs. the old steel centric treatment methods? Thanks
With aluminum it's probably more important, with composites maybe less so. I'd concentrate on what's more likely to resonate, which would be the largest surface areas relative to the material thickness, as well as material type. Since its lighter, aluminum is probably more likely to resonate than steel. Hope this helps.
Hello dear friend...I would like please your advise...I set my dsp in the right settings but my sound sounds harsh,like the vocals are harsh,even though the frequencies to my speakers are set properly...Why do you think is that possible?i set my front and rear speakers to 80 hz my sub cut to 80 hz but i m getting a sound like the vocals are not clear,they are harsh...any thoughts why is this happenening?Thank you very much
You mean like a Pioneer or a Sony with crossover and graphic eq? Same rules apply. If you are using deck power get efficient speakers Hertz is my to goto. I was able to run a Pioneer deck Hertz Desi components and a 100W Bazooka tube (8") and it sounded great for not much money.
I have a 4 channel 1250w amp 14.4v (4ohms 4x125w, 2ohms 4x250w, 4ohms bridged 2x500w) and my car has 6 speakers (5 inch dash 45w 135max, door and rear 6x9s 100w 300max). What would you recommended to get the most and best out of them? Is it possible to connect all 6 to the amp without limiting their output power or should I just connect the 6x9s?
To get the bass/system I dreamed of..i had to upgrade my alternator, upgrade my battery, add a 2nd battery, upgrade to zero ga wire AND do the big 3 upgrade. No Sh#$ . To get loud responsive bass and maximum amp power CONSISTENTLY, you have to do those things or you'll sound like crap sitting next to my system. 2 high end 12s 2 amps, custom box, all high end interior speakers. Don't half ass it. Do those upgrades.
Same here. You can have the best stuff and get out done by a $200 build. I have a 2015 VW beetle hatchback. I didn't touch it until I researched it. And researched again. Know what you need an What your vehicle can handle. He says get good quality RCA cables. Highly recommend that. If you get an amp kit for $30 that has "everything". Those RCA cables are junk. I went from an amp that I thought was nice sound. For $20 +- you will not believe the difference in sound. Just by using a good quality cable. There's places that you can go with basic stuff.
My next step is to get a cheap car. I've watched you for a while now and I think that for me to proceed with my car is to put it in the garage and take it apart ❤️
which do you think is a better speaker Gotta replace my rear speakers. I need co axle. So I’m in between the JL C3 650 or the hertz MPX 165.3 PRO. Can’t decide The C3 are 200$ more. The JL VXi 800/8 will be running them. I have hertz in the front I might upgrade to a 3 piece
If you ever run into installing a system on a 2nd gen tacoma,would like a detailed video about it...:)..good job,keep up the good work 👍, like watching 👀 your videos.📹
I want to upgrade my equinox speakers from factory but don’t have big budget to spend on speakers do you have an alternative to this please help if you can
Great video's. How about a simple build I want to install a single 4 or 5 channel amp can I get away with just a 4 channel 1800 Watts, Full Range, Class A-B, 2-4 Ohm Stable ? with four 6.5" 360W Dual Cone Black Marine Audio Speakers Total Power: 180 Watts per pair (360 Watts per 2 Pair) and one Bazooka BT8024DVC BT Series 400w Max 8-Inch 4-Ohm Dual Passive Tube. Would I want or even need a DSP ? existing head unit is a Kenwood with 6 RCA outputs. I'm restoring an old boat and just want to be able to hear the radio when moving on the water. Blew up my old head unit by constantly having it maxed out trying to hear it. Trying to at about 6 to $800 Not looking to win any contest just nice clear sounds I would like to here your thoughts on some of the lower end more budget friendly equipment like Boss, Rockville, Skar, Pyle ECT.
Question for you or anyone who has a thought. Electrical: 270 Amp Alt, XS POWER 3400D in rear next to sub amp, Interstate MTP 35 under the hood, 0 AWG wiring, big 3, only running 1700 RMS from all amps with gains set properly. I still get voltage down to 13 V range and lights flicker when bass plays. Would an extra battery help? Capacitor? A bigger alternator?
@@jonahpehl2606 I dont know about that but Im running a taramps smart3 and a fosgate 300 watt amp with a 220amp alt with 2 batteries and I dont dip that low when driving i usally see high 13s to low 14s
I got a 12" kenwood sub I'm not quite sure what it is but that with a good box for it in the back of a jeep tj with the amp being a powerbass ASA-400.1 not sure if it's x with tx46 4x6 skar speakers in the front and a older sound bar that only half works and I'm pretty sure is hooked directly to the radio what should I do next to it?
My setup is a ported box (3.2 cu ft with a 50 cu in port tuned at 38 hz) with 2 skar svr 10s (1600 peak 800 rms each, combined 1600rms) with an amp that outputs 1600rms. What would be a good step up in terms of subs? I've heard sundown and CT sounds are good. Want to stick with 10s, and I wouldn't be opposed to getting a bigger amp to back up higher rms subwoofers. Any recommendations?
I’m using Spotify. I have all of my normal songs downloaded at the highest quality. It seems that I am majorly held back by my stock system not the file. I have dual 12s ready to hook up along with a Sony headunit. I have a small car and I didn’t even think about my alternator… will I be ok with my stock alternator. It’s only a 2.0 engine
Soooo... what if the front doors have a soundstream 3 way system, middle doors have earthquake 6 3/4, and the rear overhead have American Bass 2 way 6x9. Is there one amp that would let me control all the speakers and have stereo?
How do you get the right frequency roll off? Do you have to find the right speaker? 15 subs seem to roll off higher than 20hz Do you use a dsp to correct? that seems wrong in that you are focing the speaker beyond what it's supposed to do My current sub rolls off at 35hz and it annoys me. I looked at higher end subs and they roll off between 25 and 30. I did find a cheap rockford fosgate that goes down to 18. I feel like I'm missing something. Why would there be only one cheap price range sub that goes that low of frequency? I have that problem with highs as well, they start rolling off around 15khz instead of 20khz I have a calibrated test microphone.
Because you did it wrong. The box is wrong or the port isn't big enough. Always go with the recommended ported enclosure the manufacturer suggest. Every time I have done this I got the exact performance I was expecting. Of course this is assuming you listen to what's commonly on Top 40 radio. For that you want ported not sealed.
@@dj4monie I have both a ported and a sealed 15" I used to run just sealed. I like a cleaner sound. I built the ported box trying to figure out the issue. The port didn't solve it. While a little louder the range is the same. The box dimensions and the port are per the manual that came with the sub.
Hey ,can you just help me out whenever I unpulg my ignition key from car my car amp connected subwoofer make "bufffffffff " sound when ever I ignition key on &, off From my car what will be the possibile reason so that I can rectify this problem please 🙏 help. Love from India 💕 your love your all build.
That’s the extra signal power from the rcas wires going into the amp from the radio and into the speakers and that’s the buufffff ur hearing when u switch ur ignition on/off
@@Panchal21 No. The Head Unit. The Radio itself. In the dash. We think it is sending out extra/incorrect signal. Is it an old unit? I would check all of your connections before you purchase anything. -RCA cables -Signal wire -Radio antennae Do you have your RCA cables running close to any other wires? You may want to replace OR move OR insulate/separate them from any other wiring in the car as they can pick up/intercept signals. Good luck!!!!!
@@jasonanderson4915I had replace orginal Suzuki head to aftermarket Android player .( Alienware) Connecting with JBL amplifier & sub to. Yes all wiring is parallel running with wiring of car.
You probably don’t monitor comments now after 2 years but I have a Joying 9” Android 10 head unit which has an equaliser and listening position offset and sub crossover built in. Does that mean it has a DSP? It’s in an old 2008 car so not a modern vehicle with a head unit that needs overcoming. The head unit is obviously aftermarket and only a couple of years old.
@@lextr3110 More important is placement of speakers, deadening and tuning. Amps are not that important. I suggest watching some video’s of PS sound, he explains allot.
Anyone know if I can wire extra speakers to a 4 channel kicker zx200.4 amp , is it possible I can wire 8 speakers to it and have it tuned to work properly ? Trying to use what I already have without buying a new amp at the moment
Also Mark K.I.S.S is at play. Address the problem you have first if you are not satisfied with the sound, loudness of bass production. Adding a subwoofer fixes usually all three problems at once. You also don't need 1000w, stop buying premade empty enclosures! That is why I keep coming back to Bazooka tubes. Affordable, sounds good and fixes those problems. Add an amp before you upgrade your speakers. Reason being that most cars less than ten years old and cars with premium sound have very good speakers, but no real power or sub-bass. If you find yourself turning up to near max volume a lot then increase the power. You can easily double the power and get some features like a DSP if you shop carefully. Trust me it was much more difficult to get good sound in the mid to late 1980's than it is today.
Another Important thing you forgot it's the device you are using, Android systems like cell phones and tablets are totally trash... Use an apple, iphone, ipad etc.. I always start with that when they are using Bluetooth.. try it and you will see thanks Mark
Hey mark i have a question, I’m currently doing an install in my 2018 camaro and i am planning to run a d.4-800, since it accepts speaker level inputs should i use a line out converter still? I have one i just don’t know if there is an advantage of still using it? Better signal using the line level inputs? Or is there a built in LOC in the amp that will make the signal just as clean?
The biggest mistake is installing the front stage separating the mids and tweeters apart... they need to as close as possible and no a dsp will not fix this with time alignment
@@DIYAudioGuy no it wont, time alignment will only work for one seating position, its better to go single point as there much less chance the mid~tweeter to have cancelations/out of phase.
Your videos made me sound proof all the car, change the cd player, change all the speakers and install a under seat subwoofer, all this in the wright way thanks to you! THANK YOU!
Car Audio Fabrication made me do it!
How are you liking under the seat sub , any complaints ?
The space one is a big one. It is the one that got me. You say you don't know why, allow me to enlighten. Sometimes, when a poor person wants bass (lots of us here in Kansas), and they only have one car that is needed for work & shopping & leisure & all else & they have absolutely no possible way of ever trading or selling or acquiring a newer bigger vehicle because they make 9.00 an hour and their health prevents them from working full time, they simply work with what they have! This is compounded by someone who is maybe doing the install for the first time, and is already learning a TON of new info, the box size and car size simply gets overlooked!
I installed bass in my Mustang. The cabin gain was quite significant! But step out of the car, and you'd think I had like one 10 inch Kicker. Not 2 Skar 12's. Only two twelve inch pre fab sub boxes would fit in my car. I picked the bigger one. It was too small for my subs. Sealed. They played high notes well and loud but low notes very muffled. Very soft.
Moved this setup into my van. Immediately is much better in the same box even. Still cannot play lows good. I have a proper ported box being installed tomorrow. I can't wait.
Thanks for your videos.
Pretty spot on. Those are most of the biggest issues I see people have trouble with.
One of The videos we’ve been longing for.
Here's a problem that you can maybe address in one of your future videos. The problem I am facing is that my high's cut out at higher volumes. I've re-done my entire stereo system from the head unit to the speakers to the subs and the amps. At high volumes the stereo sounds great, but at higher volumes the bass still hits, but the highs kind of get distorted, Why?
Hey. It looks to me that:
1: You are sending to much power to the tweeters.
2: Tweeters might be defect.
There are other possibilities as why this might happen, so a bit more information on your system, will be appreciated.
Ps. Please excuse my English, I'm not a native speaker.
another great vid Mark. I've been watching for years. are you Canadian? I ask because this is the most polite form of "I've already answered this question, go look", that I've seen on YT.
Love to see you do a videos about putting a car audio systems in hybrid cars and electric cars
Will definitely have to tackle this in the future, thanks for the input.
I have a Honda accord 2005 with upgraded twitters and rear 6x9 speakers and when I turn all way up it sounds loud with static and I feel like it factory radio was louder with no issues
Speaking of wiring noise issues. I often wonder why car audio isn't using balanced xlr or trs connections.
Weight
@@XxXnonameAsDXxX somehow I think that choosing a 50lb sub is more of a "weight" concern then some more wire
Sound treatment is so inportant! Just sound dead my whole car and had a great audiosystem. Then I bought the exact the same car but with an higher hp engine. Then i installed the exact same audio system and I didnt have the time yet to sound treat it, and the sound is so different and worse, i knew it was inportant but not that important😅😅😂👍🏼
Sound deadening is expensive but worth it
The AMP power gauge accidentally touched the casing of the capacitor and caused a small spark. Does that short circuit anything and affect the SUB and AMP?
Hey Mark,
With more and more aluminum and even composite (fiberglass etc.) panels in cars these days, is there any different treatments that are more appropriate for these vs. the old steel centric treatment methods?
Thanks
With aluminum it's probably more important, with composites maybe less so. I'd concentrate on what's more likely to resonate, which would be the largest surface areas relative to the material thickness, as well as material type. Since its lighter, aluminum is probably more likely to resonate than steel. Hope this helps.
How Can i play High quality loss less audio in my car? What are tha options. Thank you
Hello dear friend...I would like please your advise...I set my dsp in the right settings but my sound sounds harsh,like the vocals are harsh,even though the frequencies to my speakers are set properly...Why do you think is that possible?i set my front and rear speakers to 80 hz my sub cut to 80 hz but i m getting a sound like the vocals are not clear,they are harsh...any thoughts why is this happenening?Thank you very much
Great video and information
What about a budget build. Where the tuning is in the head unit?
Nope. Tuning in the amp.
You mean like a Pioneer or a Sony with crossover and graphic eq? Same rules apply. If you are using deck power get efficient speakers Hertz is my to goto. I was able to run a Pioneer deck Hertz Desi components and a 100W Bazooka tube (8") and it sounded great for not much money.
one question? When i driving bumbing suddenly my bass loose power what could it be
How much would it cost for you to build a subwoofer for my 2002honda civic
I have a 4 channel 1250w amp 14.4v (4ohms 4x125w, 2ohms 4x250w, 4ohms bridged 2x500w) and my car has 6 speakers (5 inch dash 45w 135max, door and rear 6x9s 100w 300max). What would you recommended to get the most and best out of them? Is it possible to connect all 6 to the amp without limiting their output power or should I just connect the 6x9s?
What about subwoofer poping when i raise the lpf
To get the bass/system I dreamed of..i had to upgrade my alternator, upgrade my battery, add a 2nd battery, upgrade to zero ga wire AND do the big 3 upgrade. No Sh#$
. To get loud responsive bass and maximum amp power CONSISTENTLY, you have to do those things or you'll sound like crap sitting next to my system. 2 high end 12s 2 amps, custom box, all high end interior speakers. Don't half ass it. Do those upgrades.
Same here. You can have the best stuff and get out done by a $200 build.
I have a 2015 VW beetle hatchback. I didn't touch it until I researched it. And researched again. Know what you need an
What your vehicle can handle. He says get good quality RCA cables. Highly recommend that. If you get an amp kit for $30 that has "everything". Those RCA cables are junk. I went from an amp that I thought was nice sound. For $20 +- you will not believe the difference in sound. Just by using a good quality cable. There's places that you can go with basic stuff.
@ 0:42 that's my engine bay!
My next step is to get a cheap car. I've watched you for a while now and I think that for me to proceed with my car is to put it in the garage and take it apart ❤️
Is tuff if you are using 1 amp for 8 speakers and 2 twiter I will need to separate the twiters to a different amp
which do you think is a better speaker Gotta replace my rear speakers. I need co axle. So I’m in between the JL C3 650 or the hertz MPX 165.3 PRO. Can’t decide
The C3 are 200$ more. The JL VXi 800/8 will be running them. I have hertz in the front I might upgrade to a 3 piece
Always use the same make and line up for front and rear.
Other speakers will sound different.
hi..i have power amp ,monoblok and pre amp on my car now..can i put dsp on my system?and if i use dsp then the pre amp not use anymore?
If you ever run into installing a system on a 2nd gen tacoma,would like a detailed video about it...:)..good job,keep up the good work 👍, like watching 👀 your videos.📹
I want to upgrade my equinox speakers from factory but don’t have big budget to spend on speakers do you have an alternative to this please help if you can
Good speakers are like 100 bucks
I have a question. If the systems time correction is geared toward the driver of the car, will that change the experience for the passengers?
Yes, but you can have more than one tune. Make another tune for when you have a passenger.
Well.....I guess I have some videos to watch and learn from...
Great video's.
How about a simple build I want to install a single 4 or 5 channel amp can I get away with just a 4 channel 1800 Watts, Full Range, Class A-B, 2-4 Ohm Stable ?
with four 6.5" 360W Dual Cone Black Marine Audio Speakers
Total Power: 180 Watts per pair (360 Watts per 2 Pair) and one Bazooka BT8024DVC BT Series 400w Max 8-Inch 4-Ohm Dual Passive Tube.
Would I want or even need a DSP ? existing head unit is a Kenwood with 6 RCA outputs. I'm restoring an old boat and just want to be able to hear the radio when moving on the water. Blew up my old head unit by constantly having it maxed out trying to hear it. Trying to at about 6 to $800 Not looking to win any contest just nice clear sounds
I would like to here your thoughts on some of the lower end more budget friendly equipment like Boss, Rockville, Skar, Pyle ECT.
Any ideas why my amps turn off if I have the volume lower than 8
Question for you or anyone who has a thought. Electrical: 270 Amp Alt, XS POWER 3400D in rear next to sub amp, Interstate MTP 35 under the hood, 0 AWG wiring, big 3, only running 1700 RMS from all amps with gains set properly. I still get voltage down to 13 V range and lights flicker when bass plays. Would an extra battery help? Capacitor? A bigger alternator?
Prolly need a battery bank, or couple life po’s. How’s your run! Rje
Go with a higher output alternator first
Turns out can't find a bigger alt for my car
@@jonahpehl2606 I dont know about that but Im running a taramps smart3 and a fosgate 300 watt amp with a 220amp alt with 2 batteries and I dont dip that low when driving i usally see high 13s to low 14s
I use ofc wire, capacitor, 1800rms amp, no big 3, no flickers lights.
I got a 12" kenwood sub I'm not quite sure what it is but that with a good box for it in the back of a jeep tj with the amp being a powerbass ASA-400.1 not sure if it's x with tx46 4x6 skar speakers in the front and a older sound bar that only half works and I'm pretty sure is hooked directly to the radio what should I do next to it?
I also want to know if I can just disconnect the sound bar/over head speakers and it still sound good?
My setup is a ported box (3.2 cu ft with a 50 cu in port tuned at 38 hz) with 2 skar svr 10s (1600 peak 800 rms each, combined 1600rms) with an amp that outputs 1600rms. What would be a good step up in terms of subs? I've heard sundown and CT sounds are good. Want to stick with 10s, and I wouldn't be opposed to getting a bigger amp to back up higher rms subwoofers. Any recommendations?
Rockford fosgate subs are amazing
Question, I have an LC7i & an epicenter, I am wanting to install my system onto an old 96 F150 with an Alpine 172BT. Do I need the LC7i?
no
I’m using Spotify. I have all of my normal songs downloaded at the highest quality. It seems that I am majorly held back by my stock system not the file. I have dual 12s ready to hook up along with a Sony headunit. I have a small car and I didn’t even think about my alternator… will I be ok with my stock alternator. It’s only a 2.0 engine
Should definitely be fine as long as you are not pushing some insane powered amp connecting to your subs.
@@GonNoomba1 it’s 500 watt rms
Soooo... what if the front doors have a soundstream 3 way system, middle doors have earthquake 6 3/4, and the rear overhead have American Bass 2 way 6x9. Is there one amp that would let me control all the speakers and have stereo?
Yessir it’s called a 6 channel amp
@CMGD thank you, figured as much. Is there one that is recommended with a DSP?
Rip out all the rears and use the 3 way only, that will give you a better sound.
How do you get the right frequency roll off?
Do you have to find the right speaker? 15 subs seem to roll off higher than 20hz
Do you use a dsp to correct? that seems wrong in that you are focing the speaker beyond what it's supposed to do
My current sub rolls off at 35hz and it annoys me. I looked at higher end subs and they roll off between 25 and 30. I did find a cheap rockford fosgate that goes down to 18.
I feel like I'm missing something. Why would there be only one cheap price range sub that goes that low of frequency?
I have that problem with highs as well, they start rolling off around 15khz instead of 20khz
I have a calibrated test microphone.
Because you did it wrong. The box is wrong or the port isn't big enough. Always go with the recommended ported enclosure the manufacturer suggest. Every time I have done this I got the exact performance I was expecting. Of course this is assuming you listen to what's commonly on Top 40 radio. For that you want ported not sealed.
@@dj4monie
I have both a ported and a sealed 15"
I used to run just sealed. I like a cleaner sound. I built the ported box trying to figure out the issue. The port didn't solve it. While a little louder the range is the same.
The box dimensions and the port are per the manual that came with the sub.
Hey ,can you just help me out whenever I unpulg my ignition key from car my car amp connected subwoofer make "bufffffffff " sound when ever I ignition key on &, off From my car what will be the possibile reason so that I can rectify this problem please 🙏 help.
Love from India 💕 your love your all build.
That’s the extra signal power from the rcas wires going into the amp from the radio and into the speakers and that’s the buufffff ur hearing when u switch ur ignition on/off
Your head unit is sending out extra signal like rockford said through rca or signal wire replace head unit
@@jasonanderson4915 tanx for your feedback will replace my all audio wiring .
@@Panchal21 No. The Head Unit. The Radio itself. In the dash.
We think it is sending out extra/incorrect signal. Is it an old unit? I would check all of your connections before you purchase anything.
-RCA cables
-Signal wire
-Radio antennae
Do you have your RCA cables running close to any other wires? You may want to replace OR move OR insulate/separate them from any other wiring in the car as they can pick up/intercept signals.
Good luck!!!!!
@@jasonanderson4915I had replace orginal Suzuki head to aftermarket Android player .( Alienware)
Connecting with JBL amplifier & sub to.
Yes all wiring is parallel running with wiring of car.
You probably don’t monitor comments now after 2 years but I have a Joying 9” Android 10 head unit which has an equaliser and listening position offset and sub crossover built in. Does that mean it has a DSP? It’s in an old 2008 car so not a modern vehicle with a head unit that needs overcoming. The head unit is obviously aftermarket and only a couple of years old.
im looking for the truly top best sounding amplifiers under 1-2k.. what should I buy.. 2channel or more..
Best sounding as for SQ?
Zapco Z series, Ground zero Uranium, Helix
@@ekimandersom4478 thx a lot, i will check these
@@lextr3110 More important is placement of speakers, deadening and tuning.
Amps are not that important.
I suggest watching some video’s of PS sound, he explains allot.
@@ekimandersom4478 on my side i hear a lot of diff btw amps in my sound system but on car amps in a car maybe not...
Brasil!!!!
Anyone know if I can wire extra speakers to a 4 channel kicker zx200.4 amp , is it possible I can wire 8 speakers to it and have it tuned to work properly ? Trying to use what I already have without buying a new amp at the moment
Yes the amp is stable to 2 ohms in stereo. So as long as they're 4 ohm you're fine
@@melissathompson7229 thank you , I didn't want to take a random chance of damaging any components . Much love to you
You don't need 8 speakers
@@ekimandersom4478 you're right , I need more
Can I use an automotive oscilloscope for car audio tuning? If so, how?
Absolutely you can.
Great info
Mark Great information
Remember when you made the Boom Box with the radio screen?? I NEEED THAT PLEASE I WILL PAY YOU TO BUILD IT :'(
❤
Also Mark K.I.S.S is at play. Address the problem you have first if you are not satisfied with the sound, loudness of bass production. Adding a subwoofer fixes usually all three problems at once. You also don't need 1000w, stop buying premade empty enclosures! That is why I keep coming back to Bazooka tubes. Affordable, sounds good and fixes those problems. Add an amp before you upgrade your speakers. Reason being that most cars less than ten years old and cars with premium sound have very good speakers, but no real power or sub-bass. If you find yourself turning up to near max volume a lot then increase the power. You can easily double the power and get some features like a DSP if you shop carefully. Trust me it was much more difficult to get good sound in the mid to late 1980's than it is today.
They all have crappy speakers, even the harman kardon, bose and all those so called upgrade systems.
Do you really need subwoofer? Can i install AMP without subwoofer?
You can, but one of the easiest and most noticeable quick upgrades to sound is adding a subwoofer since most OEM systems lack true low end performance
Another Important thing you forgot it's the device you are using, Android systems like cell phones and tablets are totally trash... Use an apple, iphone, ipad etc.. I always start with that when they are using Bluetooth.. try it and you will see thanks Mark
Hey mark i have a question, I’m currently doing an install in my 2018 camaro and i am planning to run a d.4-800, since it accepts speaker level inputs should i use a line out converter still? I have one i just don’t know if there is an advantage of still using it? Better signal using the line level inputs? Or is there a built in LOC in the amp that will make the signal just as clean?
no , you use the amp
2nd!
The biggest mistake is installing the front stage separating the mids and tweeters apart... they need to as close as possible and no a dsp will not fix this with time alignment
If you say about midrange - your right. If you say about midbass - your completely wrong)))
@@likemegapolis depends at what f the xover is at and how steep the order is set...
Time allignment will fix it.
@@DIYAudioGuy no it wont, time alignment will only work for one seating position, its better to go single point as there much less chance the mid~tweeter to have cancelations/out of phase.