I have an older version of this lift. Best tool purchase I have ever made in my 35 years of wrenching. Mine came with rectangular lift pads that have a groove in them for fitting on pinch welds of cars. What I don't have is the height extenders for taller vehicles. I am tempted to make a set for myself. I also built a table top for mine. It is the perfect outfeed table for my tablesaw, and works great for lawnmower and snowblower service. I have not modified my hoses yet, but have considered it. I don;t need to move my lift around very often so there isn't much advantage to making changes.
Hi Corey, I was also thinking of machining another set of extenders to get it even a little bit higher. Let me know if you want to more about the hoses and fittings. I can make up a list for you of what I installed.
I was debating between a Quick jack and a mid rise scissor and seeing all the other things you can with it I think its worth the extra coin. Thank you.
The QD is brilliant! They make nice welding lift tables and mine was worth the 500 bucks I gave for it to a shop who never used it because post lifts work so much better. I would NOT buy one new.
Great video excellent job explaining the details to the left and a great modification install you've completed with the hydraulic lines the cutoff valve
HI if you like the quick connect valve , you can get one`s with a selfsealer on so you dont have to have a another valve to to stop the fluid coming out and keep shutting it on and off
@@BruceLyeg no sorry i dont have link for them [ im a bit hopeles with PC`s ] , there used a loot on construction site wear the bucket`s have to be change quike for a diffrent oporation`s ie bucket`s , pecker`s , grab`s , pallet lift`s , roller`s . thay come in a male and female end , and can be striped down and rebuilt with new o-ring , spring`s , seal`s . a good hydraulic / hose shop should no all about them
Glad you like them! The quick disconnect does seal both ends from leaking out when disconnected. The reason why I added the ¼ turn ball valve is to isolate from the residual pressure on the disconnects when plugging them together. There is still partial weight of the lift on the hydraulic cylinders. this makes plugging in the QD's really easy.
Sold me on this . Thanks for the info . I'm thinking I could make some wheel cribs to lower the car onto and pull the lift out to be able to get to other areas that would be blocked by the lift .
Outstanding video! Is there any chance you could let me know the length of the yellow arms on your lift? Yours look significantly longer than mine and I know Bend Pak offers longer arms so before I look into ordering them I just wanted to see how long they actually are
@@hester781 thank you for having a look at the vid. The arms are a standard length for Bendpak. I know you can get extended ones. I am out of country just now. When I get back home, I will measure and let you know Cheers
@@ggworks2much appreciated! Mine measure exactly 2 feet long. It looks like yours is approximately 6/8 inches longer just based on where the lift pad base sits.
I like your hydraulic modification but I'm wondering how you solved your locking latch problem. Mine has a bicycle brake line that is on the pump frame, I squeeze it and the latch is held out while the lift goes down. How do you hold the latch while it goes down?
Hi there thanks for watching the vid! The locking mechanism only has 3 positions to lock the lift . This mechanism has a thick finger that moves the locking tab so when the mechanism is locked, you have to lift the lift until this fingers engage so the main lock disengages and then you can lower the lift. Works very well and no othe cables or wires are required but the locking mechanism has to be designed that way. Not something you can modify. I will try and dig out some pics to show how it works
Hopefully this explains it better About Safety Locks Your Lift comes with three Safety Lock positions; they serve two important functions: • Safety. Safety Locks hold the Platform in place. Once the Lift is engaged on the desired Safety Lock, the weight of the Vehicle holds the Platform in place. If the power goes out, the Safety Lock holds the Platform, and anything on it, in place. ⚠ WARNING Always leave your Lift engaged on a Safety Lock or fully lowered. Although rare, it is possible for Hydraulic Fluid in the Hydraulic Cylinders to leak, causing the Platform to slowly come down if it is not engaged on a Safety Lock. • Adjustable height. Having multiple Safety Locks means you can raise the Vehicle to just the right height for the work you are performing. To put your Lift on a Safety Lock: 1. Press the Up button on the Power Unit to raise the Platform. The Release Cam has not passed over the Lock Block; the Lift would not go on a Safety Lock at this point. 2. To use that Safety Lock, keep pressing Up for another half a second, then release Up. 3. Press and hold the Lowering Handle for a few seconds; the Release Cam moves into a locked position on the Lock Block it just passed. If you miss the desired Safety Lock, th
Thanks, I have a slightly different scissor lift than yours, and mine has a bicycle cable connected to the locking mechanism as you describe. I can be standing at the pump, push the lever for the lift to come down, at the same time, I squeeze the brake handle on the pump frame and it holds the locking mechanism out of the way while lower the lift. You do not have that mechanism, so how do you hold it out of the way while lowering the your lift. Here is a video of what my lift looks like, although its not a HF lift, its another brand, but basically the same. ruclips.net/video/qsVclnRaiOU/видео.html See minute 5.00. @@ggworks2
Have you ever lifted an early VW Beetle with this lift? If so, where did you place the front lift arms/pads to safely lift the car without damage? Also, the instructors for the lift states a thermal overload switch must be installed. Did you install one and if so, where is it placed?
Hi there, thanks for taking the time to view the vid. I have never lifted a Beetle but I am sure you can. The rear pads could go under the suspension arms and the front pads would probably require something else to spread the load in each pad so the car body is not damaged. The thermal overload is placed in the little box on the side of the electric motor.
What cars do you work on with this? I am seeking confirmation that this would be compatible with a Porsche 944. Does anyone know of any issues? The 944 has its forward OEM lift points that are set somewhat under the car, while the rear lift points are near the sills. Just trying to do some diligence before making an investment.
Hi there, thank you for watching the video. I have worked on a few cars on this lift. I had a 911 on it and it worked fine. It could locate all the correct lift points. A 944 would be fine to lift. It is not very heavy as a Touareg, which is 2.5 tons. I think a 944 weighs 1.4 tons, so the lift is well in its capacity. Changing a transmission would be its negative point. All other components underneath, suspension, iS very accessible. Albeit that you have to crouch down when working underneath.
For cars that have an offcentre lift, when it’s lifted, I use a extendable stand which I shortened to fit in underneath. Most extendable stands are designed for a full rise lift which is too high for a scissor lift so I bought one and cut 19” off one side of the tube and welded it back together. I think it’s called an under lift jack stand
Thanks again for your help with this. Question: what is your preferred fluid to use with this lift? Do you have a recommendation? The manual lists several but wondering what you think. I appreciate any insights you can offer.
Hi Fernando, Thank you for watching. I bought the lift through Bendpak in Canada, directly from their website. It had to be shipped from British Columbia to Ontario and then up to me in Northern Ontario. I received a followup from the salesman of Bendpak some weeks after I received it to ask if I was happy with their service. Which I certainly was!
hi there, thank you for watching the mods to the scissor lift. For the QDs, I used 1 - ¼" NPT series 20 Snaptite QD male and female 1 - ¼" NPT female ¼ turn Parker ball valve, SS 1 - -4JIC male to ¼" NPT adapter 1 - -4JIC male--4JIC female tee 2 - -4JIC female swivel, Synflex hydraulic hose 1/8" bore, 4000 psi W.P. 2 - ¼" NPT male to -4JIC male, elbow All fittings should be spec'd for min 3000 psi working. I used Loctite hydraulic sealant on all the NPT threads. Hope this helps :)
Hi there. Thanks for watching the vid. Yes, you can do exhaust and drive line repairs. Not as convenient as a 2 or 4 post lift. Transmission changeout out would not work. But you can work around having some middle bars in the way while being underneath.
Hi there, Thanks for watching. I made the table slightly larger than the footprint of the lift. It is a ¾" sheet with formica on both side. the sides of the box is 2x4. I cut one side at 45 degrees so it's easier to locate the front wheels of the car when driving over it. Im not at home just now so I can't give you the actual size. I will post it though, when I get back home. I added some fixed castor wheels to one side of the box so one person can tip the box on its side and then move it round the workshop with ease.
The quick disconnect couplers that come with the MD-6XP lift setup to disconnect the hose from the pump are junk, SABE brand. The o-rings go bad on the SABE couplers after the warranty and replacement couplers from Bendpak are extremely overpriced. Better replacements at a far lower price are SUMMIT FF14M-06S (male) and FF14F-04N (female) quick disconnect couplers.
@@jrpowers667 mine never came with QD’s I bought the stainless steel QD’s from a hydraulics place. Parker, Snaptite, etc. ther are many good manufactures out there but I do realise there is also a lot of sub-standard chinesimn types too!!
You can use the arms at any angle, but try and keep them symmetrical. There are small stopper bars that keep the arms going all the way forward or all the back.
@@ggworks2 its made by TMG Industrial, but it looks exactly the same, just different paint. everything else tho is exact. Canadian company so its standard should be pretty good
I have an older version of this lift. Best tool purchase I have ever made in my 35 years of wrenching. Mine came with rectangular lift pads that have a groove in them for fitting on pinch welds of cars. What I don't have is the height extenders for taller vehicles. I am tempted to make a set for myself.
I also built a table top for mine. It is the perfect outfeed table for my tablesaw, and works great for lawnmower and snowblower service.
I have not modified my hoses yet, but have considered it. I don;t need to move my lift around very often so there isn't much advantage to making changes.
Hi Corey, I was also thinking of machining another set of extenders to get it even a little bit higher. Let me know if you want to more about the hoses and fittings. I can make up a list for you of what I installed.
I was debating between a Quick jack and a mid rise scissor and seeing all the other things you can with it I think its worth the extra coin. Thank you.
The QD is brilliant!
They make nice welding lift tables and mine was worth the 500 bucks I gave for it to a shop who never used it because post lifts work so much better. I would NOT buy one new.
Great video excellent job explaining the details to the left and a great modification install you've completed with the hydraulic lines the cutoff valve
Thank you very much!
Thank you for this mid lift tutorial ... the additions for bench vise and box top are great !!!
Glad you like them!
I've had the same lift for two years and love it. Your ideas are great, I especially like the quick connect with a valve idea
HI if you like the quick connect valve , you can get one`s with a selfsealer on so you dont have to have a another valve to to stop the fluid coming out and keep shutting it on and off
@@gibboj do you have a link?
@@BruceLyeg no sorry i dont have link for them [ im a bit hopeles with PC`s ] , there used a loot on construction site wear the bucket`s have to be change quike for a diffrent oporation`s ie bucket`s , pecker`s , grab`s , pallet lift`s , roller`s . thay come in a male and female end , and can be striped down and rebuilt with new o-ring , spring`s , seal`s . a good hydraulic / hose shop should no all about them
Glad you like them!
The quick disconnect does seal both ends from leaking out when disconnected. The reason why I added the ¼ turn ball valve is to isolate from the residual pressure on the disconnects when plugging them together. There is still partial weight of the lift on the hydraulic cylinders. this makes plugging in the QD's really easy.
Very good video. I like the mods you have done to your lift to suit your needs.
Thank you for viewing it.
welcome
good vidéo thank-you
@@marcelb4872 thank you for the comment
Sold me on this . Thanks for the info . I'm thinking I could make some wheel cribs to lower the car onto and pull the lift out to be able to get to other areas that would be blocked by the lift .
Great idea, but the lift is ½ ton (900lbs) so its not that easy to move around with the the little trolley.
Great video!
Thanks!
Outstanding video! Is there any chance you could let me know the length of the yellow arms on your lift? Yours look significantly longer than mine and I know Bend Pak offers longer arms so before I look into ordering them I just wanted to see how long they actually are
@@hester781 thank you for having a look at the vid. The arms are a standard length for Bendpak. I know you can get extended ones. I am out of country just now. When I get back home, I will measure and let you know
Cheers
@@ggworks2much appreciated! Mine measure exactly 2 feet long. It looks like yours is approximately 6/8 inches longer just based on where the lift pad base sits.
@ggworks2 Do you remember where you bought that shelf for the shoes and accessories? I would really like to get one like it.
I like your hydraulic modification but I'm wondering how you solved your locking latch problem. Mine has a bicycle brake line that is on the pump frame, I squeeze it and the latch is held out while the lift goes down. How do you hold the latch while it goes down?
Hi there thanks for watching the vid! The locking mechanism only has 3 positions to lock the lift . This mechanism has a thick finger that moves the locking tab so when the mechanism is locked, you have to lift the lift until this fingers engage so the main lock disengages and then you can lower the lift. Works very well and no othe cables or wires are required but the locking mechanism has to be designed that way. Not something you can modify. I will try and dig out some pics to show how it works
Hopefully this explains it better
About Safety Locks
Your Lift comes with three Safety Lock positions; they serve two important functions:
• Safety. Safety Locks hold the Platform in place. Once the Lift is engaged on the desired Safety
Lock, the weight of the Vehicle holds the Platform in place. If the power goes out, the Safety Lock
holds the Platform, and anything on it, in place.
⚠ WARNING Always leave your Lift engaged on a Safety Lock or fully lowered. Although rare, it is
possible for Hydraulic Fluid in the Hydraulic Cylinders to leak, causing the Platform
to slowly come down if it is not engaged on a Safety Lock.
• Adjustable height. Having multiple Safety Locks means you can raise the Vehicle to just the
right height for the work you are performing.
To put your Lift on a Safety Lock:
1. Press the Up button on the Power Unit to raise the Platform.
The Release Cam has not passed over the Lock Block; the Lift would not go on a Safety Lock at
this point.
2. To use that Safety Lock, keep pressing Up for another half a second, then release Up.
3. Press and hold the Lowering Handle for a few seconds; the Release Cam moves into a locked
position on the Lock Block it just passed.
If you miss the desired Safety Lock, th
Thanks, I have a slightly different scissor lift than yours, and mine has a bicycle cable connected to the locking mechanism as you describe. I can be standing at the pump, push the lever for the lift to come down, at the same time, I squeeze the brake handle on the pump frame and it holds the locking mechanism out of the way while lower the lift. You do not have that mechanism, so how do you hold it out of the way while lowering the your lift. Here is a video of what my lift looks like, although its not a HF lift, its another brand, but basically the same. ruclips.net/video/qsVclnRaiOU/видео.html See minute 5.00. @@ggworks2
Have you ever lifted an early VW Beetle with this lift? If so, where did you place the front lift arms/pads to safely lift the car without damage? Also, the instructors for the lift states a thermal overload switch must be installed. Did you install one and if so, where is it placed?
Hi there, thanks for taking the time to view the vid. I have never lifted a Beetle but I am sure you can. The rear pads could go under the suspension arms and the front pads would probably require something else to spread the load in each pad so the car body is not damaged.
The thermal overload is placed in the little box on the side of the electric motor.
Great Video Thank You!
Glad you liked it!
What cars do you work on with this? I am seeking confirmation that this would be compatible with a Porsche 944.
Does anyone know of any issues?
The 944 has its forward OEM lift points that are set somewhat under the car, while the rear lift points are near the sills.
Just trying to do some diligence before making an investment.
Hi there, thank you for watching the video. I have worked on a few cars on this lift. I had a 911 on it and it worked fine. It could locate all the correct lift points. A 944 would be fine to lift. It is not very heavy as a Touareg, which is 2.5 tons. I think a 944 weighs 1.4 tons, so the lift is well in its capacity. Changing a transmission would be its negative point. All other components underneath, suspension, iS very accessible. Albeit that you have to crouch down when working underneath.
For cars that have an offcentre lift, when it’s lifted, I use a extendable stand which I shortened to fit in underneath. Most extendable stands are designed for a full rise lift which is too high for a scissor lift so I bought one and cut 19” off one side of the tube and welded it back together. I think it’s called an under lift jack stand
Many thanks for your reply-and thank you for the video.
I think I am gaining confidence in this.
Thanks again for your help with this. Question: what is your preferred fluid to use with this lift? Do you have a recommendation?
The manual lists several but wondering what you think.
I appreciate any insights you can offer.
Hello I watch your video it’s very interesting and I would like to buy one could you give me the información where did you buy it thanks a lot
Hi Fernando, Thank you for watching. I bought the lift through Bendpak in Canada, directly from their website. It had to be shipped from British Columbia to Ontario and then up to me in Northern Ontario. I received a followup from the salesman of Bendpak some weeks after I received it to ask if I was happy with their service. Which I certainly was!
The quick disconnect hydraulics is a great idea. What size do you need to do this mod?
The fitting are all ¼" NPT stainless steel. the hoses can be bought on Amazon ¼" OD x 1/8" ID. All are minimum 3000 psi working pressure
Grea Mods and video, thanks
No problem 👍 and thank you for watching
Thank you too!
Do you have a perts kist for the QD between the rams?
hi there, thank you for watching the mods to the scissor lift.
For the QDs, I used
1 - ¼" NPT series 20 Snaptite QD male and female
1 - ¼" NPT female ¼ turn Parker ball valve, SS
1 - -4JIC male to ¼" NPT adapter
1 - -4JIC male--4JIC female tee
2 - -4JIC female swivel, Synflex hydraulic hose 1/8" bore, 4000 psi W.P.
2 - ¼" NPT male to -4JIC male, elbow
All fittings should be spec'd for min 3000 psi working. I used Loctite hydraulic sealant on all the NPT threads.
Hope this helps :)
Is a scissor jack any good for exhaust work, or driveline repairs ?
Hi there. Thanks for watching the vid. Yes, you can do exhaust and drive line repairs. Not as convenient as a 2 or 4 post lift. Transmission changeout out would not work. But you can work around having some middle bars in the way while being underneath.
GOOD VIDIO!
Nice setup !! What size is the white table ?
Hi there, Thanks for watching. I made the table slightly larger than the footprint of the lift. It is a ¾" sheet with formica on both side. the sides of the box is 2x4. I cut one side at 45 degrees so it's easier to locate the front wheels of the car when driving over it. Im not at home just now so I can't give you the actual size. I will post it though, when I get back home. I added some fixed castor wheels to one side of the box so one person can tip the box on its side and then move it round the workshop with ease.
@GG Works ok thanks !!
Hi there, sorry for taking so long to answer your question on the size of the table. The table is 45” wide x 82 ½” long
The quick disconnect couplers that come with the MD-6XP lift setup to disconnect the hose from the pump are junk, SABE brand. The o-rings go bad on the SABE couplers after the warranty and replacement couplers from Bendpak are extremely overpriced. Better replacements at a far lower price are SUMMIT FF14M-06S (male) and FF14F-04N (female) quick disconnect couplers.
@@jrpowers667 mine never came with QD’s
I bought the stainless steel QD’s from a hydraulics place. Parker, Snaptite, etc. ther are many good manufactures out there but I do realise there is also a lot of sub-standard chinesimn types too!!
Thx!
In Thailand Have
okay, i was using mine incorrectly, i just had my arms going straight out
You can use the arms at any angle, but try and keep them symmetrical. There are small stopper bars that keep the arms going all the way forward or all the back.
@@ggworks2 okay because when i have them fully sticking out 90 degrees, with my car on theres quite a bit of flex on the flat part theyre mounted too.
Is it a Bendpack lift or is it another type
@@ggworks2 its made by TMG Industrial, but it looks exactly the same, just different paint. everything else tho is exact. Canadian company so its standard should be pretty good