Thanks for he video, fnd it shortly after asking about the build info on first video. I screenshot a 01.0 and .99 nozzle . Great fire for that size nozzle. I have double barrel but use heater block to vary oil temp for better starting. Its -20-30c here in Manitoba ( makes starting in cold shop easier and cleaner burn) But I want build yours for melting at least aluminum for starters. Approaching fall/ winter . Keep up good work ❤
Very interesting burner, I hope to see your other videos soon, I'd like to see it in action! thanks for sharing the name of the supplier for the siphon valve! keep up the good work!
Thanks for the info mate. I've been toying with the idea of building an aluminium smelting furnace for a while, and your "Duel fuel" setup seems to have a really good simplicity vs functionality ratio. Scrap alloy isn't particularly hard to come by here in the UK, but getting any decent sized slugs of billet to turn on my lathe IS pricey. I'm thinking that if I can build something to melt scrap alloy wheels and engine parts I could just use old food tins and coffee cans as "Sacrificial molds".
Excellent video.Thanks alot for the info and specific part source for the assembly.Best and certainly cheapest (to operate) furnace i have ever seen. ~Cheers~
A liter of vegetable oil has enough energy to liquify an aluminum engine head. I wonder how much electricity a liter of vegetable oil could generate using a jet burner and steam turbine... Very cool demonstration!
@EllinonEnosis Blocking the intake takes some load off the motor: pressure inside the turbine drops so air gets less dense, revs go up; it would overheat if the same airflow would be used to cool the motor though.
I've heard carbon buildup can be a problem with the heating coil due to the different boiling temperature of the hydrocarbons. Although straight answer nobody can be bothered to make them because the gain doesn't seem worth it when building large oil burners. Also adequate particle dispersion can normally be obtained using compressed air.
At around 5:20 what size air intake are you using on the siphon nozzle adapter that the atomizer screws into? Is it 1/8" or 1/4"? Very great video and burner!
Depending on how many watts the fan motor draws you could either use a light dimmer or a variac to control it's speed and control the air flow more accurately.
brilliant video, do you have a list of sizes of the nozzle and nozzle holder, will be trying to make the same on my lathe, many thanks. Ian
12 лет назад
Question: Why no one is using a coil to pre-heat the oil before exiting the nozzle? A few turns of pipe inside the burner, to be in permanent contact with the flame, perhaps pre-heated with LPG or not, it will cause the oil to vaporize and exit the nozzle as gas which, in turn, will mix better with air and burn cleaner and more efficient.
Hi Kevin ,I think you'll find it'll work better with a 0.2 mm air hole, heat the end and beat it with a hammer till it's nearly closed .Also you need a ball in there to make to oil film thin enough to be efficient.You can google babington burner for a better explanation on the principle.
I like your nozel . I am a fitter and turner and would like to make one.Could you dismantle the nozel to allow me to see the design on the end and the hole size.The 4 holes in the brass fitting do they go through the other side.
Awesome vid. Do have any kind of backflow preventer between the lpg side and the air fitting to keep from pushing lp gas back into your compressor tank should the compressor fail to build air pressure?
would your burner light without the propane ?im wanting to make a carlton oil burner a waste oil burner for my salamander i want to use your idea with the siphon nozzel so i can add air also a aquarium heater to preheat oil in tank im just tired of paying kerosine prices so i thout a waste oil salamander would be great
Can you confirm which inlet is for the oil, there seems to be a contradiction in the video, you say the air/gas mix goes in the side, but on the assembled burner the air/gas mix appears to go to the rear port and theoil to the side port. cheers. Paul
Hi. Great video. How much compressed air does that nozzle use? Do you have to have a big compressor for it? Also why are you using a pressure regulator for the air? Is it not the flow that you want to regulate? And that can be done with a simple needle valve.
Not an expert but have heard can reduce the carbon content in the oil. Also makes the oil trickier to hook up as it requires to be pumped or be in a pressurized tank to prevent lack of oil flow. I don't understand enough of thermal dynamics and chemistry to say too much but i don't understand how this would be more efficient, i would think less carbon less heat, like using propane. Although the burn cleaner bit is true when you're sat around burning gallons of engine oil it seems a bit pointless
He got them mixed up at one point. The oil comes out the center orifice of the nozzle and air around it. On the adapter, the oil goes in the middle. I believe you can invert the two on some designs and it still works, but I could be wrong.
I am going to use two of these burners fr a steam bike. I work on a steam locomotive with turbogenerators (steam turbine/generator combo) . I will require some electricity on the steam bike, so I will have two small turbogenerators. I will also have a larger one for use as an emergency generator. Once it is built, I will hook up the large turbine generator, crank the boiler to full pressure of 150psi, and let youknow how much electicity I can produce on one litre of oil.
Ok. So that answers my question of buying the expensive stuff rather than making it myself and having it crack. ( the cheapest refractory in my area is 60usd for a 50lb bag and for that I can buy the recipe mix for 30usd and have close to 150lb of mix. Of course like I've always said if your gonna do it, do it right the first time. Also would you recommend 3000°f+ mix. Because that's all I can get.
Hi Kevin, I just watched your oil burner, it was brilliant by the. I would like to make one just like that, but I am hearing impaired so was not able to hear the instructions or parts list. Could you please send me the parts list and I will assemble aided by your video. I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
Nice setup. I tried regulating my air like this and it is basically useless. I went to a ball valve instead, because when I'm making Damascus I want a slightly carbon rich atmosphere and accurate adjustment..
In your video you say the side port of the siphon adapter is for air/lpg and the end port is for oil, yet looking at your video it looks as though you have connected the oil pipe to the side port and the air to the end.. Can you confirm correct assembly method.
I have used a coffee pot for preheating the oil but it gets way too hot and burns the oil. I built a pressurized container for the oil but i haven't had much time to play with it yet.
How come you dont use a rpm regulation for the fan instead of blocking the air intake ? it is giving your motor a hard time+it consumes more energy +it gets heat up+it reduses its life expectancy.
If you guys are after nozzles and or complete burners, will make to suit any design and or machine nozzles to spec, have a small hobby machine shop and make my own foundry supplies and burners for forge's as well, located in brisbane queensland
hi Yes it is rated at 1 US gal per hr, but i don not run it flat out i throttle the air which uses less oil approx 1 ltr per hr is all i need
12 лет назад
Indeed but a compressed air system requires a compressor, which usually runs kilowatts-hour, makes lots of noise, has high wear in time and requires heavy maintenance...
How hot can you get the flame? I'm looking to make a waste oil burner myself for iron and from memory, I'll need to get the melt to about 1600 degrees for pouring. Also, where do you get the waste oil from? Local chicken shop? Thanks :)
Actually just sent them an email and they replied overnight - all good - just their website is not setup for international shipping. He has done me a paypal invoice overnight and the good are on the way !
Thank you for reply and video. I built one and I made a stainless cone for it . I just tacked fittings to be able to remove easily . I also saw video where you just put long straight lines in from back of the pipe. Mine works fine , but first mold did not. I think I will wrap some copper line around pipe to preheat waste oil.Now I need to finish my furnace
The oil's chemical composition cannot be affected by pre-heating ;)) Vaporized oil would mix better with air and create a more combustible mixture, compared with atomized oil which has much bigger particles.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT/ project. This is going to require some imagination on the construction part. Visualize this; Take a container(for your waste oil) and use a line running from your compressor to keep it pressurized. Now run a line from the bottom of that pressurized oil filled container to a still functioning fuel injector salvaged from whatever and build a variable frequency and variable pulse width circuit using a couple of 555 timers to drive an external n-channel mosfet to control a 12v dc supply that actuates the fuel injector's solenoid. Now you'll be able to tell the injector how often to turn on and how long it should stay open. The viscosity of the waste oil might be an issue but i think it's worth a shot. I'll help with the electronics part if anyone's up to the challenge of building it.
Don't know if you tried this yet but you will need to preheat your oil, waste oil or WVO and then also have a heated block where the oil runs into your injector or it will not work. The oils are just to thick to atomize properly without the dual heaters which are not cheap.
You have the oil and compressed air going into the wrong ports of the Hago Siphon Nozzle. Air should be from back of siphon passing straight through and oil is entering from side which will pass through the center of the metering nozzle.
Go to - Patriot Supply's website (this won't let us direct link so just search on Google and search for Patriot Supply NY) and search for SN609 in the search box and all the sizes will come up. You can't order online for international orders, but just send an email with your needs to them under their contact info and they will email you back a total with shipping.
The part u call a siphon nozzel I can not find when I type in siphon nozzel it will only show me results for the hago nozzel not the brass fitting are u sue about what it's called
Go to - Patriot Supply's website (this won't let us direct link so just search on Google and search for Patriot Supply NY) and search for SN609 in th esearch box and all the sizes will come up. You can't order online for international orders, but just send an email with your needs to them under their contact info and they will email you back a total with shipping.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for he video, fnd it shortly after asking about the build info on first video. I screenshot a 01.0 and
.99 nozzle . Great fire for that size nozzle. I have double barrel but use heater block to vary oil temp for better starting. Its -20-30c here in Manitoba ( makes starting in cold shop easier and cleaner burn)
But I want build yours for melting at least aluminum for starters. Approaching fall/ winter . Keep up good work ❤
Well I tinker but you are TheMrTinker!
Fantastic series! Thanks. A real buzz to get me building this and casting parts.
Keep up the good work.
That's the nice thing about hobbiest foundries there's no one way, you just use what you have on hand and make it work.
Very interesting burner, I hope to see your other videos soon, I'd like to see it in action! thanks for sharing the name of the supplier for the siphon valve! keep up the good work!
Thanks for the info mate. I've been toying with the idea of building an aluminium smelting furnace for a while, and your "Duel fuel" setup seems to have a really good simplicity vs functionality ratio.
Scrap alloy isn't particularly hard to come by here in the UK, but getting any decent sized slugs of billet to turn on my lathe IS pricey. I'm thinking that if I can build something to melt scrap alloy wheels and engine parts I could just use old food tins and coffee cans as "Sacrificial molds".
Thank you, TheMrTinker.
I appreciate you taking the time and effort
to provide us with such an informative tutorial.
Two Thumbs Up, Mate! :)
Excellent video.Thanks alot for the info and specific part source for the assembly.Best and certainly cheapest (to operate) furnace i have ever seen.
~Cheers~
A liter of vegetable oil has enough energy to liquify an aluminum engine head.
I wonder how much electricity a liter of vegetable oil could generate using a jet burner and steam turbine... Very cool demonstration!
thanks for the video and explanation, I ordered the parts to make one myself.
Simply AWSOME. That's really all I can say. Thank You so much for sharing.
An excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
@Blubenz1985 ...hi the refractory is a pre mixed product from a surplier it is rated to about 1450 c
@EllinonEnosis Blocking the intake takes some load off the motor: pressure inside the turbine drops so air gets less dense, revs go up; it would overheat if the same airflow would be used to cool the motor though.
on ya buddy, this is awesome detail, thanks so much for sharing, i do not need one this size and am thinking a smaller burner design.
I've heard carbon buildup can be a problem with the heating coil due to the different boiling temperature of the hydrocarbons. Although straight answer nobody can be bothered to make them because the gain doesn't seem worth it when building large oil burners. Also adequate particle dispersion can normally be obtained using compressed air.
Thank you, video was very helpful.
At around 5:20 what size air intake are you using on the siphon nozzle adapter that the atomizer screws into? Is it 1/8" or 1/4"? Very great video and burner!
Great info.
Depending on how many watts the fan motor draws you could either use a light dimmer or a variac to control it's speed and control the air flow more accurately.
seriously nice video an quite a nice job as well thanks
@mckeoneb He just said it backwards. If you looks at where to oil tap is on the whole assembly, there is no doubt that the oil comes in the side port.
brilliant video, do you have a list of sizes of the nozzle and nozzle holder, will be trying to make the same on my lathe, many thanks. Ian
Question: Why no one is using a coil to pre-heat the oil before exiting the nozzle?
A few turns of pipe inside the burner, to be in permanent contact with the flame, perhaps pre-heated with LPG or not, it will cause the oil to vaporize and exit the nozzle as gas which, in turn, will mix better with air and burn cleaner and more efficient.
Hi Kevin ,I think you'll find it'll work better with a 0.2 mm air hole, heat the end and beat it with a hammer till it's nearly closed .Also you need a ball in there to make to oil film thin enough to be efficient.You can google babington burner for a better explanation on the principle.
I like your nozel . I am a fitter and turner and would like to make one.Could you dismantle the nozel to allow me to see the design on the end and the hole size.The 4 holes in the brass fitting do they go through the other side.
nice work buddy boy !
Awesome vid.
Do have any kind of backflow preventer between the lpg side and the air fitting to keep from pushing lp gas back into your compressor tank should the compressor fail to build air pressure?
do you get any problems with clogging ???? either way great burner
thanks so much
BRILLIANT WORK
would your burner light without the propane ?im wanting to make a carlton oil burner a waste oil burner for my salamander i want to use your idea with the siphon nozzel so i can add air also a aquarium heater to preheat oil in tank im just tired of paying kerosine prices so i thout a waste oil salamander would be great
Can you confirm which inlet is for the oil, there seems to be a contradiction in the video, you say the air/gas mix goes in the side, but on the assembled burner the air/gas mix appears to go to the rear port and theoil to the side port.
cheers. Paul
Hi.
Great video.
How much compressed air does that nozzle use? Do you have to have a big compressor for it?
Also why are you using a pressure regulator for the air? Is it not the flow that you want to regulate? And that can be done with a simple needle valve.
Very helpful. Great video. Thanks
Not an expert but have heard can reduce the carbon content in the oil. Also makes the oil trickier to hook up as it requires to be pumped or be in a pressurized tank to prevent lack of oil flow. I don't understand enough of thermal dynamics and chemistry to say too much but i don't understand how this would be more efficient, i would think less carbon less heat, like using propane. Although the burn cleaner bit is true when you're sat around burning gallons of engine oil it seems a bit pointless
He got them mixed up at one point. The oil comes out the center orifice of the nozzle and air around it. On the adapter, the oil goes in the middle. I believe you can invert the two on some designs and it still works, but I could be wrong.
I am going to use two of these burners fr a steam bike. I work on a steam locomotive with turbogenerators (steam turbine/generator combo) . I will require some electricity on the steam bike, so I will have two small turbogenerators. I will also have a larger one for use as an emergency generator. Once it is built, I will hook up the large turbine generator, crank the boiler to full pressure of 150psi, and let youknow how much electicity I can produce on one litre of oil.
Exelente !! ........ gracias por la explicacion.
Ok. So that answers my question of buying the expensive stuff rather than making it myself and having it crack. ( the cheapest refractory in my area is 60usd for a 50lb bag and for that I can buy the recipe mix for 30usd and have close to 150lb of mix. Of course like I've always said if your gonna do it, do it right the first time.
Also would you recommend 3000°f+ mix. Because that's all I can get.
Hi Kevin,
I just watched your oil burner, it was brilliant by the. I would like to make one just like that, but I am hearing impaired so was not able to hear the instructions or parts list. Could you please send me the parts list and I will assemble aided by your video.
I would really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance.
Hi from the us! I was wanting to ask, what are you using for refractory?
Does your burner tube melt? Seeing as how it burns in it. Also do you get oil accumulation on the inside of burner tube from the oil hitting sides?
Nice setup.
I tried regulating my air like this and it is basically useless.
I went to a ball valve instead, because when I'm making Damascus I want a slightly carbon rich atmosphere and accurate adjustment..
In your video you say the side port of the siphon adapter is for air/lpg and the end port is for oil, yet looking at your video it looks as though you have connected the oil pipe to the side port and the air to the end.. Can you confirm correct assembly method.
i wonder if that would work for a small/medium forge if of course you set it up properly...
GOOD JOB,MATE...
How Manu distance from the top of the nozzle to the end of the burner?
Any chance of you putting the direct link to patriot supplies, if possible the direct product, jet and the other bit.. please Aussie :)
So are those two parts from Patriot Supply numbers 030L2160 and 030L4068?
What psi do you have the air set on?
About 6 to 10 psi
@@TheMrTinker thank you.
I have used a coffee pot for preheating the oil but it gets way too hot and burns the oil. I built a pressurized container for the oil but i haven't had much time to play with it yet.
Also, are these 2 parts BSP or NPT threaded?
does the air-gas go in back or side
very usefull mate
How come you dont use a rpm regulation for the fan instead of blocking the air intake ? it is giving your motor a hard time+it consumes more energy +it gets heat up+it reduses its life expectancy.
If you guys are after nozzles and or complete burners, will make to suit any design and or machine nozzles to spec, have a small hobby machine shop and make my own foundry supplies and burners for forge's as well, located in brisbane queensland
hi
Yes it is rated at 1 US gal per hr, but i don not run it flat out i throttle the air which uses less oil approx 1 ltr per hr is all i need
Indeed but a compressed air system requires a compressor, which usually runs kilowatts-hour, makes lots of noise, has high wear in time and requires heavy maintenance...
A Thought Just Pushed In, What is the possibility of using a Gravity Feed Spray Gun... Mounted in a pipe. All the component seem to be there?
Still need to preheat the oil and other fun factors. I assume you seen the video of the other fellow doing just what you stated here.
How hot can you get the flame? I'm looking to make a waste oil burner myself for iron and from memory, I'll need to get the melt to about 1600 degrees for pouring.
Also, where do you get the waste oil from? Local chicken shop?
Thanks :)
Thanks for sharing.
I have the same setup so why is there an issue sucking up the oil
Hi,do I need a air compressor for this nozzle to work,will this work without a air compressor and only blower
You need an air compressor.
It needs air compressor, but can operate with out the fan
yes
Just wondering how you went getting patriot Supply to ship to Australia ? They do not appear to support this on their website at all ?
I telephoned them from Australia, gave them my details, they sent stuff
***** Good one thanks - someetimes the simplest options are the easiest -- i will riing them tomorrow night our time and see how i go
Actually just sent them an email and they replied overnight - all good - just their website is not setup for international shipping. He has done me a paypal invoice overnight and the good are on the way !
I Just used amazon
Do you have a video on your burner ? if so I would like to see it :)
have you had to take it apart for cleaning and if so how do you do it when its welded?
ALAN C
I have not needed to clean it but if i do the nozzle is threaded so it can be removed
Thank you for reply and video. I built one and I made a stainless cone for it . I just tacked fittings to be able to remove easily . I also saw video where you just put long straight lines in from back of the pipe. Mine works fine , but first mold did not. I think I will wrap some copper line around pipe to preheat waste oil.Now I need to finish my furnace
Thanks Kevin!!!
The oil's chemical composition cannot be affected by pre-heating ;))
Vaporized oil would mix better with air and create a more combustible mixture, compared with atomized oil which has much bigger particles.
thanks friend
Thanks!
Thank you!
I got the adaptor and the nozzle all from Patriot supply, it was a 1 GAL per hr
I have not tried motor oil as yet, but there would be no reason why it would not if you got the oil hot enough at the start
depending one the engine head size of coarse
I might go this route instead of some of the home-made atomizers I've seen people use. I've tried two designs so far with no success.
L00NGB00W I tried the homemade ones and had the same experience. The home made ones are tricky. These are much more consistent.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT/ project. This is going to require some imagination on the construction part. Visualize this; Take a container(for your waste oil) and use a line running from your compressor to keep it pressurized. Now run a line from the bottom of that pressurized oil filled container to a still functioning fuel injector salvaged from whatever and build a variable frequency and variable pulse width circuit using a couple of 555 timers to drive an external n-channel mosfet to control a 12v dc supply that actuates the fuel injector's solenoid. Now you'll be able to tell the injector how often to turn on and how long it should stay open. The viscosity of the waste oil might be an issue but i think it's worth a shot. I'll help with the electronics part if anyone's up to the challenge of building it.
Don't know if you tried this yet but you will need to preheat your oil, waste oil or WVO and then also have a heated block where the oil runs into your injector or it will not work. The oils are just to thick to atomize properly without the dual heaters which are not cheap.
You have the oil and compressed air going into the wrong ports of the Hago Siphon Nozzle. Air should be from back of siphon passing straight through and oil is entering from side which will pass through the center of the metering nozzle.
what size the pipe?
2inch or 2,5inch?
2.5
bagus sekali ....
kevin were did u find the jet
America, from memory a company called patriot supplies
Go to - Patriot Supply's website (this won't let us direct link so just search on Google and search for Patriot Supply NY) and search for SN609 in the search box and all the sizes will come up. You can't order online for international orders, but just send an email with your needs to them under their contact info and they will email you back a total with shipping.
super video dík
Hey Kevin
Would you make me 1 and what the cost would be I live in perth ?
Sorry Anarchey1 I am not making them for any body as I don't have the time, but thanks for watching
when u say air do u mean from like an air compressor or pure oxygen, and when u say gas to u mean like propane
yes that's correct
The part u call a siphon nozzel I can not find when I type in siphon nozzel it will only show me results for the hago nozzel not the brass fitting are u sue about what it's called
Yes I got them from Patriot supplies in America
Try searching for a "SIPHON NOZZLE ADAPTER"
I don't use it for heating a house only for the foundry
Go to - Patriot Supply's website (this won't let us direct link so just search on Google and search for Patriot Supply NY) and search for SN609 in th esearch box and all the sizes will come up. You can't order online for international orders, but just send an email with your needs to them under their contact info and they will email you back a total with shipping.
No the tube does not melt stainless steel melts at 1510c and aluminum melts at 660c
No deposits of oil at end of tube
Right, no V8 Hemi heads here.
Then again we can't bully the laws of physics around... Oh well...
@jmoody8328 Thank you for your email. I will be emailing you for the parts..
Patriot Supply Part No 030L2160
Hago Part No SN609-11
:)
BSP
came to see invent hoping to see it work..this was another pffff time...