Common Problem With Clean Burn Waste Oil Furnace - CB2000 (Flame Out)
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This is the most common problem that I have with my 1992 Clean Burn CB2000 Multi oil waste furnace
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18 year Clean Burn tech here. This particular burner he is working on is a very uncommon burner and about 30 years old. The 200 and HS series have heating elements making direct contact with the oil. Unlike modern burners. (1993-present) Because of this they do gum up quicker. If you have a 500 series burner you can send them in to be flushed and tuned. Or simply have your distributor come out and do an on-site flush. On my personal furnace I have a metering pump which I gravity feed with transmission fluid at the end of the heating season. The ATF helps clean the block due to the detergents in the fluid. Diesel fuel will do much the same. But if your burner is to gummed up it may just cause more nozzle plugging.
Hey, thanks for all the information. This one's been going strong but definitely needs to be cleaned once a year. Hopefully maybe I'll get a deal on a more modern one and upgrade one day
Clean Burn has first quarter promos going till the end of April. 😁
I work on our 500 series burners constantly. Working on one now. I have no ignition. This always seems to be the hardest one for me to figure out
Thanks for the video, not much out there on these old school burners. Just fixed my 12 psi problem thanks to you. Plugged like yours. 🍻
When you start having those issues more consistently, you have to completely disassemble the aluminum heater block and remove all move all the 1/8" pipe plugs to completely remove all the sludge in the block. Then it will run for a long time without cutting out. Just cleaning the heater element is a short time fix, the rest of the heater block is still loaded with sludge.
Thanks for taking the time to explain. This will help with my diagnostics.
No problem! Glad you found it helpful
The stainless steel turbulator nozzle that you showed with the six angled slots cut has the same angle as the firing pin of a AR-15 and M-16 but only three angled slot cuts. The design keep the weapon from no firing condition. What you started with the uniqueness of the nozzle assembly is right on as compared to a regular home oil heater nozzle. What exactly is so different from the 1992 heater as compared to a 2022 model RPM ??
Well explained video Sir.
Thanks for the video! I have a newer model and I’m having the same trouble even though I disconnect the power during the summer months. Scared to touch the heater block but with this info I’ll give it a shot.
Funny to see that you have a heater block in that way. I have only seen small models on house hold burners have small heater blocks.
I have a Kroll UB20. I ran it for 8 months without service. But it was due to me centrifuging the oil. I stopped having sludge in my tank, my filters, heater bowl, injector nozzle and ash in the combustion chamber.
Regular used engine oil will give you about 300-600 grams of sludge per 200 liter.
I bought a CB 2800, nobody maintained it, everyone expected ut to work, cleaned entire block and nozzle, rebuilt regulators, added a spin on filter and differential gauge to discharge side of metering pump, havent had a single issue in 4 years besides cleaning heat exchanger and fan motor
Awesome thanks
No problem!
Heating on ✅ a good way to get rid of used oil I think adding a large oil filter as used on a big trucks. Only large for a better flow rate. But the oil you’re using has a lot of sediment in it. Also keeping your supply line 6” or 10” off the bottom of your tank.
The addition of a DODGE badge will massively improve the mopar moment of warmth
Great explanation nice work!!
Great video👌 im currently having the same issue, thank you very kindly for the info👍
Awesome to hear it was helpful! I didn't think anybody else still had one of these old clean burns. I have a few videos on this same unit on my other channel as well
Mines about 2007, 500 2501 model. But it all the same kinda technologies. Not much has changed😜 its worked super great in my metal shop for 7 years now👌 great investment🤑 I subscribe to your channel and looking forward to the other videos, thank again
@@bullfrogmachine4776 Gotya! Yea they are great units! and Thanks!
Good info
I have the same model heater. Can you tell me what air compressor you are using?
You need to contact dealer put bigger heater in air side and unhook oil heater and plug hole the bigger heater heats aluminum block and cutes down on carbon plugging tip.
Thanks for the tip. Might just have to do that
Your wrong about standard furnace nozzle to clean out. In fact the screen does unscrew from the rear of it and can be cleaned out. Depending on which nozzle size you have you rig up a reverse pressure feed to dislodge the blockage then reassemble. But with a good filter system you will never have a problem. My WMO system doesn't use air assist . Just a 140 psi fuel pump attached to old Becky
Thanks I didn't know that. I was told they weren't serviceable
Nice 👍
We have a Clean Oil Used Oil Burn 2014, and our problem is that the flow jumps up & down and after a few hours will shut down. Never runs throughout the day at all. I have checked the nozzle, cleaned the complete furnace out with the targets in the back. The air pressure is set for manufacture spec at 10 and the oil pressure at 2 on the guage. However, this never remains a constant and drifts down until it runs out. I have also increased the pressure to start it up as well. What could this be? Do they all operate on the same principle from one year to the other?
Wut model is ur heater
CB2000
Would running (burning) some kerosene through it once a year do the trick?
Hmm, nah i don't think so. That would prob cause the sludge to clog it right away...
@@NNKH2 How about methanol racing fuel?
@@stephenspreckley8219 BOOM 💥 😂
@@clarencewiles963 🤣
Ik ga kijken want ik heb het zelfde probleem met mijn CB 2500.
Out of upstate ny and only service waste oil furnaces and boilers. Find me at waste oil america if you need service
Have you heard about the used oil furnace from 1950 that ran on water? Patent was issued to army service men in Texas for ONLY adding water line to T fitting for used oil burner on used jeep engine oil, to get 50% increase in efficiency. That was not what was written in their application for Patent. SS coil tubing in brick insulated firepot of oil burner hooked to input common water line. Oil furnace started. Temperature gauge monitored for temp up to 1500 degrees F. Then valve opened so as superheated steam is allowed in T fitting with oil to nozzel. Nice burn flame runs constant. Then oil line shut off. Furnace still runs. Shock wave from 90 lbs pressure to AMBIANT zero in firepot forms hydrogen and oxygen torch flame that also heats heat exchanger. Normally water molecules separate at about 3-6000 degrees which is too much energy. The vibration shock wave allows for disassociation at lower temperature. Electric motor with dual shafts ran 2 oil pumps at 90lbs. If water shut off, and cooled down, the furnace has to be restarted on oil. (US patent office not allow overunity for public.)...
Block heaters DO NOT WORK! Most modern waste oil gun burners have an oil heating tank mounted to the side like the Bairan units from China (awesome units), usually around 500ml of oil capacity in the tank, controlled with an adjustable thermostat. The issue with block heaters is they get hot spots around the element which literally cooks the oil causing carbon deposits which end up blocking the oil pathways. This burner is a very bad design sadly.
I find it ironic that you call a 30+ year old unit that is still in service a "very bad design." Perhaps the technology of late has improved upon certain features, but the fact that it is still in service proves you wrong. I'd like to see one of those Chinese, Ling Long heaters last 30 years. I'd like to see you try to buy replacement parts for it after 10. Proper maintenance is king. Filtering the fuel makes a big difference. My shop has a Lanair MX200 that has to be at least 10 years old or more. I maintain it. Every drop of oil that goes into that tank is strained and free of water, gasoline, chemicals, etc. and every season, the burner head comes off, gets cleaned and adjusted. It works great and Lanair customer support and parts supply is some of the best I've seen.
Do u have enough air blowing into it to burn the oil hotter so u don't have gunk left over