XV250 Valve Adjustment English Full Walkthrough
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- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2022
- An in depth long winded video on how to adjust valves on any XV250 model. This should cover any model made from 1988 to current year. Below you will find the page on virago250street for valve adjustments. Use this as a reference along with this video.
virago250street.wordpress.com... 
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I found the square end of the valve adjustment is the same size as a Robertson screw, so I put a screw in a knob of wood to use as a homemade adjuster tool. Great video, and I don’t even have a 250 Virago.
That's a great tip. I struggled trying to find a wrench to fit it and settled with pliers, which is very fiddly of course. I'll keep it in mind.
Before you roll over the engine to get the engine in top dead center, pull the spark plugs. If you don't, you'll be fighting compression in the cylinder. Great video. 👍
Thanks for posting this video. I was able to adjust the valves on my 2014 XV250. By mistake I used the inches spec on the feeler gauges for the first cylinder. I was wondering why the gap was so big. I ended up doing the first cylinder twice. You live you learn! Other than that all else went well. Cheers!
Glad to hear it. This video is very long and I often consider re-editing it. Happy that it still helps people regardless
Great videos Les! Really appreciated the front tire change one. The raw footage was real and what we have to deal with sometimes! Thanks again!
Glad you like it! I'm really trying to find the right balance between showing too much and not showing enough to be useful. People don't want to watch videos that take too long. At the end of the day it's all about how I can help XV250 owners keep their bikes in good order. Let me know if there is anything you want me to cover 👍
Thanks bud. Went to go adjust my valves since I couldn’t go above 50mph. Just bought it, thought adjustment was just whack. Was getting good spark etc both sides. Pistons both moving. Turns out the first cylinder timing sprocket sheared off and tried to get sucked down into the engine! I only had one cylinder! So in theory your video saved me a big headache that is now the dealerships headache until it’s ready for me for real this time, Altho I just got my license yesterday and I’m sad I can’t ride it to work in this pretty weather! I can’t believe it ran at all let alone to 50mph with a loose chain and only one cylinder!
Damn that's a bummer! Glad you got it sorted out. Was it a used bike?
Yes. I think 3 owners. The last lady had it for 2 years and sold it. I bet she had that problem that whole time. The dealership never took it above 2nd gear so they didn’t notice the power drop, rode it all day yesterday trying to find why it wouldn’t accelerate above 3rd. 4th and 5th were basically useless. Then took off that timing chain cover off and bam. It’s was sheared right off with the bolt sitting on top of it.
Thank you so much for this video! I managed to adjust my valves following this and now the bike is soooo much happier! Great work putting this together man, looking forward to future maintenance uploads for the XV250 👍🏽
Hey glad you found it helpful! Let me know what other maintenance videos you want to see. More on the way.
@@helloish12321 It really helped! And maybe a tuning video with your exhaust? Maybe changing brake pads, fork seals, etc. When they're due of course, no rush! Thanks again!
Excelente aula! Obrigado!👏👏👏👏
THE BEST FROM greece
Hi there. Great informative video. Thanks. By the way, how often the valve adjustment is needed? Is it mentioned in the manual?
The service manual mentions doing it at the first 3000 miles, and then every 6000 miles after that. It becomes a fairly quick job by the second time you do it.
Thank you for making this video. Your thorough explanation and close-up camera work made it easy to follow. I searched for this video because a commenter on another video said you had to remove the engine on this motorcycle in order to adjust the valves 🙄. I'm considering buying one of these sometime next year, so I'm doing research right now. Overall, has it been easy to maintain and reliable to own, and do you recommend this bike?
Glad you enjoyed it! I made this video since there seems to be very little competent documentation or how-to material online despite this bike being fairly common. There is also no real enthusiast community or active forum for it which is a shame since it's really a fantastic bike. They made it since 1988 and changed almost nothing since then. A Chinese company has a 1 to 1 knockoff of it as well. As such, OEM or dubious Chinese replacement parts are everywhere. Aftermarket accessories are mostly limited to cheap Chinese parts though. Mine has been steady reliable aside from the usual carbureted bike problems. Maintenance is generally easy due to the simple and thoughtful 1980s design. I find it to be highway capable and a joy to rip around town. Everyone I know loves the way it looks and never believes that it's a 250 unless they are already familiar with the xv250.
Ok, that's great information - thanks. You mentioned carbureted bike problems...would you please elaborate? Are there regular adjustments, or service intervals related to the carburetor? Or issues from time to time?
@@bwnash64 When I got my bike it had been sitting for about 7 years. On top of that someone had been in the carburetor before and had a lot of adjustments messed up. Once I sorted all of that out it's been running well
@@helloish12321 Good deal - great looking bike. Thanks again for the video, it's going to help a lot of people do their own work.
nice
once you align up exhuast do you leave it there for the input or do you turn it again and just use the TDC for the intake?
With the piston at top dead center on the compression stroke both the intake and exhaust valves will be closed. That's why it's important to verify top dead center by checking the mark on the cam sprocket. Line that cam mark up and then adjust the valves to spec.
You only need to rotate the engine again when you go to do the other cylinder.
Got it! Thanks. Doing mine tomorrow.
@@helloish12321 Nothing like taking it all apart and find it still in spec. I owned it for 14 years and it was still solid.
When you take the timing caps off the crankshaft, is there any fluid that you should have to worry about leaking out on you. Just checking cause I wasn't sure if the oil flowed through there.
I did not notice any oil behind the stator cover so I'm pretty sure it's designed to be dry behind those caps.
@helloish12321 thanks for your response and one more question please. After you completed the adjustment, did you have any tapping or ticking come from your valves afterwards. Because I do. Im just curious if this is something to be concerned about or if it's the valves just needing to wear into the new adjustment. Prior to the adjustment the engine was very smooth sounding with no ticking whatsoever, so its now working on my nerves making me worry a bit. But i figured it was needed, the bike has 7,000 miles on it and the first tank I ran through it since owning it only got 135 miles.
@@CrazyPalidin57 the valves should have a slight tap noise. You should definitely hear them but it should be soft.
If it's a loud noise and enough to give you concern then I would open it back up and recheck clearances. Make sure to remove your cam sprocket covers as well to verify you are at TDC on compression stroke for all adjustments and measurements.
Hi mate, I have a ticking noise which I’m not sure where it comes from. Would it be possible if I send you the video and you could tell me if it’s a valve ticking noise or maybe something else? Thanks a lot mate.
Did you get this ticking noise after attempting a valve adjustment or just over time? Has an adjustment ever been performed?
My bike has some slight valve noise even with properly adjusted valves. I can get my ear right up to the engine head and tell what's going on just from sound, but it's just a subtle normal valve noise. If you want you can upload a video as private and link me to it in a reply
Gonna be buying my grandpas v star 250 that has 6k miles on it. I have oil change planned (new oil filter) and new air filter anything else I should consider?
Make sure the tires look good and are at pressure. Mine had a ton of carb issues when I got it but you might get lucky. Check/change the brake fluid since it's probably original. Make sure the chain is tight and slap some gear oil on the chain. Basic old bike stuff.
How hot is it where you live? I noticed mine shifts much better with mobil 1 50 weight v twin oil in the spring/summer.
The service manual has a chart for the recommended oil viscosity vs ambient temp. But the chart tops off at 70°f. So the recommended spec of 20w-40 probably isn't good at the 95° I ride in some days lol.
@@helloish12321 thanks I’ll have to check on the tires next time I’m down there it seems fine when the bike warms up but when the bike is cold it doesn’t like to rev much (I assume that valve job would help that) but I’m sure it needs a carb clean.
Yeah it sure gets hotter than 70°f where I’m from 😂
What do you think about changing the sprocket?
@@Zuccleberry I went up a tooth in the front and down 2 in the rear. With a passenger it kinda sucks but I go over a bridge every morning on the way to work and have to keep the bike at around 70mph and it does great to keep the revs down.
If you don't plan on doing much highway I wouldn't bother. But if you do it's a must
Any idea where oil in my spark plug well would result from? Bike is bucking, thought it might be the valve cover but they look pretty. I can share pictures! (Have the same bike).
How many miles are on the bike and did you get it used? Are you absolutely certain it is oil?
Check a few things. A stuck carb float or a float height being set too high can cause gas to flood into the engine even when the bike is just parked. My bike had this issue when I got it so the plugs were wet and it never wanted to start. Too high would also cause a rich condition which could make it buck. Smell the plugs. Let it sit over night and take the plugs out in the morning and turn the motor over with the starter. If gas flies out of the spark plug holes then you have a float issue.
Also ensure that your oil level is set properly. Hold the bike vertically, not on the kick stand. With the bike completely verticle make sure the oil line is half way up the sight glass. If you measure oil level while on the stand then you massively overfill it and that oil has to go somewhere
If both of those check out, do a compression test and make sure your piston rings are good. The valve covers are very simple and shouldnt be leaking into the spark plug just because of how everything is arranged. Whatever is on the plugs is coming from inside the motor.
@@helloish12321 sir please I have the same probleme with the carb , but I'm wondering how does the gas goes into the combastion chamber when the bike is parking over night ?? , is it throgh the valves? If so isn't the valve should be closed compleatly and nothing should be passing through it ??
@@simonia3178 if your float is set too high the gas goes over the holes in the jets and can just pour into the intake. Normally the float height would be set so that the pool of gas is a bit below the jets, and the vacuum of the engine pulls gas through the jets.
@@helloish12321 thank you how did you fix your probleme ?
hoe did you tun the carburetta ? how many turns out from " closed " my bike has no horsepower, it is running on both cylinders, but just doesn't have any power.
That screw only affects idle. If your bike is running bad at all rpm you may have missed something or misaligned your slide diaphragm
@@helloish12321 Thank you.
I'll have to check tomorrow.
But I'm 99% sure the diaphragm is aligned with the little rubber tab in it's slot.
the bike has a "touch" of power at high rpm ( no tachometer ) but it falls really short of where it should be.
I also have a Gunsen Colortune. It's a clear spark plug so you can see the colour of the combustion flame.
It's constantly orange = too rich. no matter the adjustment.
Here's what i have.
ruclips.net/video/MJc3H6JxzbI/видео.html&ab_channel=ClassicMiniDIY
you didn't show us the TDC marks from below
Sorry, I know. I tried but the camera absolutely would not focus on it so I cut it out. When you do it yourself it will make sense as long as you know what the shapes are for each cylinder.
You should also take the cam sprocket covers off and verify tdc on the sprocket marks to ensure you are on compression stroke and that the valves are unloaded. Doing this, it isn't even necessary to see the marks on the stator. If the motor is in time mechanically, the cam mark and crank marks will be lined up at the same time. I should have mentioned this in the video though.
Damn good vidio but the sound is horeball
Believe me I know lol. I am considering doing a voice over for the whole thing and editing out some fat and reuploading.
It was all I could do at the time.
I think you still did a great job. You and your videos will be of great help. I just bought a 2014 v star 250. She needs a lil tlc to be the great lil reliable gas saving commuter I want. And this is just great man. Thank you!