Where the angles its was sharpened. The tool to sharpen is being used wrong or at least not the way it was designed. The blades goes between the plastic plate and the grinder which sets the angle. The way this was done was hand sharpening or free hand. I am sure it gets the job done, but not how the tool was designed.
I’m not able to hold both the blade and the drill steady while the grinding stone is trying to walk on the blade. It would be easier if I had a bench vise or a bench grinder, but I don’t, so I choose to use my drill like a bench grinder
@@yzhang8629 Understood thanks for responding and good for you on posting I know it takes a lot of work, but at least include text on why you are doing what you are doing. You can also C Clamp one side to a table to hold. Just a number of bad pieces of advice, like not pulling the spark plug. I don't always unplug things myself, yet if I was doing a video I try to deliver the safest most informative video I could.
I couldn’t start this thing without 2-3 *hard* pulls, I’m not worried. No one I’ve ever known has EVER had a mower magically start while replacing a blade in my entire life..... ever. 🤷🏻♀️
@@user-22- Maybe you have a dirty carburetor/fuel line/fuel filter? Honda engines are known to start at the first pull, but it is still a dedicated pull, so I agree with you that the chance of the engine starting while removing/installing the blade is low. However, the owner’s manual tells the users to be extra cautious to keep the manufacture out of trouble, it is better for us to follow just to protect ourself from some shady and hungry lawyers.
Y Zhang brand new carb, last fall. Also cuts horribly. Had an old 19” Honda 30 yrs ago & NEVER had an issue. Laid out $600 on a new one & nothing but problems. Not unique issues after a little searching online. Horrible mower, but thanks :-)
If a full gas tank then it will leak out. and not a problem As long as the carbeurator side is tilted the proper way for maintenance as shown all should be good
Rust-free along is a huge selling point to me. It is more than enough to do what it is designed to do. I bought two of the used, both of them are more than 15 years old and both of them have a crack on the deck near where the engine mounts. Based on the overall condition, the previous owners of neither one took good care of them, but the decks are still holding. I believe any steel deck of the same age should have already rusted out. HRX is a high-end model that is different for those cheap disposable models. It is designed to stay with the same family for a long time and it has a life-time deck warranty for the first owner.
Honda specifically says these blades are not to be sharpened, but replaced, due to nature of having two blades. I just purchased new blades and they are duller than a table knife. I thought if sharpening them a bit but am concerned I’ll ruin them.
On page 10 of this owner’s manual, the paragraph above the 4 blade pictures at the left bottom corner says “a dull blade can be sharpened”. cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/manuals/31VH7H42.pdf
You can certainly sharpen them. I use my 1" pneumatic belt sander or my 2" disc sander on a die grinder. Just make sure you balance both blades after. I use a simple fixture to hold one end steady and a digital scale on the other. Flip the blade end to end and compare the numbers. It is quite easy to get within 1 or 2 grams. Eventually you will have to replace the blades after grinding the meat of the blade away. There are ways to do hard surfacing buildup, which I have done but unless you know how to weld, just buy a new blade.
@@NingTang1972 I think you are talking about Honda asking owners to follow the in-dash service reminder, instead of a fixed service schedule based on time and miles
Honestly I didn’t do a comparison. I do believe that if the blade is dull, both sharpening and buying new blade can improve cut quality. Buying new blades is expensive but easy, sharpening old blades is difficult but cheap.
The owner’s manual doesn’t say heat treating it after sharpening, and I would be too lazy to do so even if the manual said it, so I have never heat treated the blade. A new set of blades is not horribly expensive, so even buying a new set of blades each year or each other year for home use is not a terrible idea.
@@yzhang8629 I have to replace one but replacement is a cable kit and wasvwkndering if you had done yours. I don't know what original cable end that connects to transmission lever looked like because cable broke and it was gone. The kit has a new cable arm to replace the current one so cable can connect to it. TY for replying.
@@yzhang8629 I saw your video removing the transmission and yours has the same cable I need to install but arm that it connects to is different and I have to replace mine so cable can hook up.
I’m not sure which and how much bend you are talking about. I can find replacement blades at my local Home Depot, I suggest you to check your local hardware store for a new set of blades and compare it to yours. If your mower shakes a lot, it is highly possible that you have bent/unbalanced blades and you may want to get a new set. In some rare cases you may have a bent engine output shaft, then you need a new shaft or a new engine or even a new mower.
@@04yungin86 If your mower doesn’t vibrate more than before you hit something, and you don’t see and damage to your mower, it is possible that your mower and blades are fine.
The professor out on Sat Morning. That's a real technical balancing technique you got there. How's about, if you cant sharpen a blade evenly, you have no business taking it off in the first place. What is the world coming to... Smothered in horse sh!t.... You did list the socket size. Good work.😜 I'm just picking with ya ... Mostly....
Buy a spare blade, so it's ready to go. Use a blade balancer on a flat level surface. Add never seize so it's easier to release bolts. Do not use your foot to hold the blade wear gloves.
Thank you for your advise. Blade balancer on a flat level surface is definitely the best way to go. What I’m doing is simply abusing my luck. I use medium-strength (blue) thread locker instead of anti-seize, because it prevents corrosion from seizing it, and also prevents vibration from loosening it. My shoe has steel toe, but I should have used something else to block the blade, or invest in an impact driver. Good work gloves definitely provide more protection.
Well I got to tell you he should have it up on a workbench and in a stationary position there's just too much trouble and your blade is going to be sharpened unevenly
@@user-22- well it depends on how long your blade last, mine do last for years and I do work them hard but also like to take good care of them !! if you have sandy conditions experts say that your blade wont last too long etc.
Unplug the sparkplug if you're doing and an impact driver works great no need to hold the blade.
This mower has a "off" position on the throttle lever. That is safe enough, not spinning the blade fast.
Where the angles its was sharpened. The tool to sharpen is being used wrong or at least not the way it was designed. The blades goes between the plastic plate and the grinder which sets the angle. The way this was done was hand sharpening or free hand. I am sure it gets the job done, but not how the tool was designed.
I’m not able to hold both the blade and the drill steady while the grinding stone is trying to walk on the blade. It would be easier if I had a bench vise or a bench grinder, but I don’t, so I choose to use my drill like a bench grinder
@@yzhang8629 Understood thanks for responding and good for you on posting I know it takes a lot of work, but at least include text on why you are doing what you are doing. You can also C Clamp one side to a table to hold. Just a number of bad pieces of advice, like not pulling the spark plug. I don't always unplug things myself, yet if I was doing a video I try to deliver the safest most informative video I could.
U should pull the spark plug boot first
ALWAYS!
Yes, safety first. Always assume the bad thing will happen and take no risk.
I couldn’t start this thing without 2-3 *hard* pulls, I’m not worried. No one I’ve ever known has EVER had a mower magically start while replacing a blade in my entire life..... ever. 🤷🏻♀️
@@user-22- Maybe you have a dirty carburetor/fuel line/fuel filter?
Honda engines are known to start at the first pull, but it is still a dedicated pull, so I agree with you that the chance of the engine starting while removing/installing the blade is low. However, the owner’s manual tells the users to be extra cautious to keep the manufacture out of trouble, it is better for us to follow just to protect ourself from some shady and hungry lawyers.
Y Zhang brand new carb, last fall. Also cuts horribly. Had an old 19” Honda 30 yrs ago & NEVER had an issue. Laid out $600 on a new one & nothing but problems. Not unique issues after a little searching online. Horrible mower, but thanks :-)
I tilted my mower on the filter side down (oil side up) and gas started pouring out. Will anything pour out if i tilt the mower oil side down?
If there is nothing wrong with your HRX217, there shouldn’t be anything pouring out with oil side down
If a full gas tank then it will leak out. and not a problem As long as the carbeurator side is tilted the proper way for maintenance as shown all should be good
Clean and chase your threaded holes, otherwise you disable the gelling / locking properties of that thread locker. Nice edge sharpening!
How do you like this deck?
Rust-free along is a huge selling point to me. It is more than enough to do what it is designed to do.
I bought two of the used, both of them are more than 15 years old and both of them have a crack on the deck near where the engine mounts. Based on the overall condition, the previous owners of neither one took good care of them, but the decks are still holding. I believe any steel deck of the same age should have already rusted out.
HRX is a high-end model that is different for those cheap disposable models. It is designed to stay with the same family for a long time and it has a life-time deck warranty for the first owner.
Honda specifically says these blades are not to be sharpened, but replaced, due to nature of having two blades. I just purchased new blades and they are duller than a table knife. I thought if sharpening them a bit but am concerned I’ll ruin them.
On page 10 of this owner’s manual, the paragraph above the 4 blade pictures at the left bottom corner says “a dull blade can be sharpened”. cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/manuals/31VH7H42.pdf
You can certainly sharpen them. I use my 1" pneumatic belt sander or my 2" disc sander on a die grinder. Just make sure you balance both blades after. I use a simple fixture to hold one end steady and a digital scale on the other. Flip the blade end to end and compare the numbers. It is quite easy to get within 1 or 2 grams. Eventually you will have to replace the blades after grinding the meat of the blade away. There are ways to do hard surfacing buildup, which I have done but unless you know how to weld, just buy a new blade.
Honda also tells you not to do any oil change on their cars......
@@NingTang1972 I think you are talking about Honda asking owners to follow the in-dash service reminder, instead of a fixed service schedule based on time and miles
your're an idiot
What's the cut quality after sharpening compared to a new blade?
Honestly I didn’t do a comparison.
I do believe that if the blade is dull, both sharpening and buying new blade can improve cut quality. Buying new blades is expensive but easy, sharpening old blades is difficult but cheap.
Is there a Dethatching Blade available for this mower?
I haven’t searched hard enough to find one
Do you need to heat treat the blades after each sharpening?
The owner’s manual doesn’t say heat treating it after sharpening, and I would be too lazy to do so even if the manual said it, so I have never heat treated the blade. A new set of blades is not horribly expensive, so even buying a new set of blades each year or each other year for home use is not a terrible idea.
Have you replaced the drive clutch cable on your mower?
Fortunately, my mower doesn’t need a clutch cable replacement yet.
@@yzhang8629 I have to replace one but replacement is a cable kit and wasvwkndering if you had done yours. I don't know what original cable end that connects to transmission lever looked like because cable broke and it was gone. The kit has a new cable arm to replace the current one so cable can connect to it. TY for replying.
@@yzhang8629 I saw your video removing the transmission and yours has the same cable I need to install but arm that it connects to is different and I have to replace mine so cable can hook up.
Is the blade supposed to look a little bent?
I’m not sure which and how much bend you are talking about. I can find replacement blades at my local Home Depot, I suggest you to check your local hardware store for a new set of blades and compare it to yours.
If your mower shakes a lot, it is highly possible that you have bent/unbalanced blades and you may want to get a new set. In some rare cases you may have a bent engine output shaft, then you need a new shaft or a new engine or even a new mower.
@@yzhang8629 your right I just got it 2 days ago was out mowing and hit something. Was real loud thanks man
@@04yungin86 If your mower doesn’t vibrate more than before you hit something, and you don’t see and damage to your mower, it is possible that your mower and blades are fine.
@@yzhang8629 thanks
Balance the blades on a NAIL in a vice.
The professor out on Sat Morning. That's a real technical balancing technique you got there. How's about, if you cant sharpen a blade evenly, you have no business taking it off in the first place. What is the world coming to... Smothered in horse sh!t.... You did list the socket size. Good work.😜 I'm just picking with ya ... Mostly....
Buy a spare blade, so it's ready to go. Use a blade balancer on a flat level surface. Add never seize so it's easier to release bolts. Do not use your foot to hold the blade wear gloves.
Thank you for your advise.
Blade balancer on a flat level surface is definitely the best way to go. What I’m doing is simply abusing my luck.
I use medium-strength (blue) thread locker instead of anti-seize, because it prevents corrosion from seizing it, and also prevents vibration from loosening it.
My shoe has steel toe, but I should have used something else to block the blade, or invest in an impact driver. Good work gloves definitely provide more protection.
I’m an automotive youtuber and it’s funny how people with no videos. Are always trying to school me.
Well I got to tell you he should have it up on a workbench and in a stationary position there's just too much trouble and your blade is going to be sharpened unevenly
In an ideal world, yes. For now, I need to work with whatever I have access to.
that's not how you're suppose to use one of those drill sharpening stones
I agree, but I found it to the most convenient way for me to get the job done by myself
I think that you're destroying the blades !! get your self and All American Blade Sharpener 505 2nd GEN with the Honda Blade adapter !!
Do you mean 5005 2nd gen? www.allamericansharpener.com/5005
@@yzhang8629 ok yes add an extra zero to it and that will get the job done !! my Hapstone R1 it's 505 lol !!
@@HectorPerez-tb8hn $200.00 for a blade holder...? I’d put that towards new blade fund, or new mower! 😏
@@user-22- well it depends on how long your blade last, mine do last for years and I do work them hard but also like to take good care of them !! if you have sandy conditions experts say that your blade wont last too long etc.
Loctite, BAD-IDEA...👎