I both love and hate the extended shutter function. I really hate how the speeds past 30 are not equally measured out in third or 1/2 stops or even full stop increments. It’s so pointless to go from 30 to 60 to a third stop to 120 and ending at 15minutes. When I’m shooting long exposures, I work in full stops and from 30 seconds you can go to 16 minutes in five equal stops, but 15 is just below a full stop and I’m not sure it’s even equal to a third of a stop, so it’s practically worthless to me. I really wish Nikon would just pick a equal stop ratio, whether it’s full, 1/2 or third stops and program the shutter speed in to match those, because past 480, it’s just too confusing and you’re better off using bulb mode and a timer. I’m not sure why no one else complains about this and why Nikon can’t fix it
The timings are q bit all over the place alright like you I also work in full stops a lot and it's easier to work it out. I asked a guy in Nikon before about that and his answer was that the difference between 15 and 16 minutes in your exposure is minimal and its easier for them to do it that. He also mentioned if you want to be exact then a remote timer is the way to go. It was actually not going to be included as a feature set, hence the reason you have to enable it. I don't use it a lot but but it is very handy sometimes. In saying that most my exposures are kept under two minutes 👍 Thanks for watching and if I ever get a chance to talk to someone high up in Nikon I will mention it 😉
@@kieranhayesphotography that’s true. The difference between 15 and 16 minutes is only 12% of a stop if my math is right. So it should not make make much of a difference. Better to have the option there then not and it is really nice to have for 2 or 4 minute shutter speed
Just bought the Z8, was one of the first options I turned on, since I love LE shots. Although I have a question. How can I stop taking the picture while the picture is being taken.
Hi Alex, the simple way I do it is to simply switch off the camera, that's the way I have always done it on the Z6ii and Z7ii, I am not certain if I tried it or not on the Z8 but I am fairly sure I did that on my Z8 and when you switch off the camera it saves the file and shuts down. I don't think there is another option, I could be wrong though.
Hi, use Time mode which should appear after Bulb - it's much more practical than preset values after 30 sec. It's start-stop system, so ideally set timer, press the shutter button, timer helps eliminate any potential movement. Once you want to stop (eg. After 110 sec) just carefully press the shutter button again (due to nature of long exposure, even if you introduce some shaking when stoping exposure, it's usually not a problem)
I've only ever done long exposures with DLRS so please bear with me... Can, say, the Z6 ii meter and show an exposure preview *through* an ND filter with a 900s exposure? Can you adjust the auto focus point *through* the ND filter e.g. for focus stacking? Do any other brands (Sony, Canon, Fuji) offer over 30s without going into bulb mode? Or do any cameras allow the user to input a manual exposure time without using a trigger? Thanks!
Hi, None of the Z cameras can meter once you go over 30 seconds. But it's very easy to work it out with apps on your phone. Just get the correct exposure at a normal shutter speed without a filter and work it out from there. You can focus through a six stop ND filter and 10 stop filter generally speaking but it also does depend on the light levels you are shooting in. Focusing through a very strong ND filter is generally not an option that's why having a filter holder is so handy as you can simply pop it on and off to focus. .as regards any other brand I haven't tried any of them recently for very long exposures recently. I hope that helps a bit.
@@kieranhayesphotography thank so much for taking the time to come back with a detailed response! I have subscribed :) My current long exposure 'workflow' on my D7100 looks something like this: - Frame the shot while handholding and moving around get the best comp, squinting through the tiny viewfinder with glasses on - Set up tripod and try and match the framing (I feel a flippy screen would really help to confirm the framing is right without being a part-time contortionist!) - Using AP, set F11 (usually), take shot, check for highlight blinkies on LCD and confirm framing is correct - Switch to manual and dial in settings - Point autofocus, usually a spot roughly third into the scene and hit back-button AF - Use phone app to calculate exposure with ND - Set camera to bracketing if required - Screw in ND filter. Usually drop filter. Try again. - Hit the BBAF out of muscle memory and defocus the camera - Repeat previous steps - *Hopefully* remember to stick eletrcial tape over the viewfinder - Set self-timer timer or program manual remote if over 30s - Check result on camera for highlight blinkies - Usually remember I haven't covered the viewfinder with tape and see pink banding - Repeat the exposure with electrical tape now in place I find this process painful and off-putting. I'm sure bad parts of my workflow are definitely my own cause e.g. I should probably be manual focusing. However, I'm terrified of leaving it on MF next time I shoot casually. I do this all the time with bracketing and leave it on by mistake. I don't shoot often enough so that all of the above becomes second nature, but because I find the whole process so painful, I'm not motivated to get to that point. *Anything* mirrorless can do to help with the above would be a godsend! I've looked into Kase filters in the past (I'm sure there are other brands now) and I agree they would help a lot! Thanks again!
True, it is a bit long winded alright. That's why I have it broken into chapters so you can go straight to the point and skip the rest of it. Some people like learning more of a story to it with a few more details on how the camera works and which setting are important. Anyway cheers for watching and ha e a great 2023.
Hello, this will extend the shutterspeed which is only really useful for photography, ideally your shutter speed should be twice your frame rate to give you smoother footage. I have another video here on video recording tips and tricks ruclips.net/video/a3prdk-h9Ds/видео.html which might help you with your video footage.
Hi, unfortunately you can only do this on the Nikon mirrorless cameras. You can use a wired or wireless remote shutter release though on the D7500 to give you longer shutter releases in bulb mode.
![Nikon Z7ii & Z6ii [03-Exposure Controls]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zriN7cgMYa0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
You can see my Z6ii best ISO video here... ruclips.net/video/ypo-tR5r-Tw/видео.html
Oh my god, I had no idea. Thank you so much for this video... So handy to know that.
You are very welcome :-)
I both love and hate the extended shutter function. I really hate how the speeds past 30 are not equally measured out in third or 1/2 stops or even full stop increments. It’s so pointless to go from 30 to 60 to a third stop to 120 and ending at 15minutes. When I’m shooting long exposures, I work in full stops and from 30 seconds you can go to 16 minutes in five equal stops, but 15 is just below a full stop and I’m not sure it’s even equal to a third of a stop, so it’s practically worthless to me.
I really wish Nikon would just pick a equal stop ratio, whether it’s full, 1/2 or third stops and program the shutter speed in to match those, because past 480, it’s just too confusing and you’re better off using bulb mode and a timer.
I’m not sure why no one else complains about this and why Nikon can’t fix it
The timings are q bit all over the place alright like you I also work in full stops a lot and it's easier to work it out.
I asked a guy in Nikon before about that and his answer was that the difference between 15 and 16 minutes in your exposure is minimal and its easier for them to do it that.
He also mentioned if you want to be exact then a remote timer is the way to go.
It was actually not going to be included as a feature set, hence the reason you have to enable it.
I don't use it a lot but but it is very handy sometimes.
In saying that most my exposures are kept under two minutes 👍
Thanks for watching and if I ever get a chance to talk to someone high up in Nikon I will mention it 😉
@@kieranhayesphotography that’s true. The difference between 15 and 16 minutes is only 12% of a stop if my math is right. So it should not make make much of a difference. Better to have the option there then not and it is really nice to have for 2 or 4 minute shutter speed
Good tip! For none manual readers.
Thanks Tony and glad you liked it. Appreciate the feedback.
Didn't know this, also works on z8 👍
It sure does, it's one of the first things I set up on my Z8. Very handy for those longer exposures.
Great video! Thanks very much 👍
You are very welcome and glad you liked it 👍
Just bought the Z8, was one of the first options I turned on, since I love LE shots. Although I have a question. How can I stop taking the picture while the picture is being taken.
Or in other words, I would like to interrupt the 3min shot being taken
Hi Alex, the simple way I do it is to simply switch off the camera, that's the way I have always done it on the Z6ii and Z7ii, I am not certain if I tried it or not on the Z8 but I am fairly sure I did that on my Z8 and when you switch off the camera it saves the file and shuts down.
I don't think there is another option, I could be wrong though.
Thanks for your reply, it’s a pitty they didn’t think about that.
Hi, use Time mode which should appear after Bulb - it's much more practical than preset values after 30 sec.
It's start-stop system, so ideally set timer, press the shutter button, timer helps eliminate any potential movement. Once you want to stop (eg. After 110 sec) just carefully press the shutter button again (due to nature of long exposure, even if you introduce some shaking when stoping exposure, it's usually not a problem)
@@novodd sorry for the late reply, indeed it worked. It's just after bulb, never went beyond bulb.
I've only ever done long exposures with DLRS so please bear with me...
Can, say, the Z6 ii meter and show an exposure preview *through* an ND filter with a 900s exposure?
Can you adjust the auto focus point *through* the ND filter e.g. for focus stacking?
Do any other brands (Sony, Canon, Fuji) offer over 30s without going into bulb mode? Or do any cameras allow the user to input a manual exposure time without using a trigger?
Thanks!
Hi,
None of the Z cameras can meter once you go over 30 seconds. But it's very easy to work it out with apps on your phone. Just get the correct exposure at a normal shutter speed without a filter and work it out from there.
You can focus through a six stop ND filter and 10 stop filter generally speaking but it also does depend on the light levels you are shooting in. Focusing through a very strong ND filter is generally not an option that's why having a filter holder is so handy as you can simply pop it on and off to focus.
.as regards any other brand I haven't tried any of them recently for very long exposures recently.
I hope that helps a bit.
@@kieranhayesphotography thank so much for taking the time to come back with a detailed response! I have subscribed :)
My current long exposure 'workflow' on my D7100 looks something like this:
- Frame the shot while handholding and moving around get the best comp, squinting through the tiny viewfinder with glasses on
- Set up tripod and try and match the framing (I feel a flippy screen would really help to confirm the framing is right without being a part-time contortionist!)
- Using AP, set F11 (usually), take shot, check for highlight blinkies on LCD and confirm framing is correct
- Switch to manual and dial in settings
- Point autofocus, usually a spot roughly third into the scene and hit back-button AF
- Use phone app to calculate exposure with ND
- Set camera to bracketing if required
- Screw in ND filter. Usually drop filter. Try again.
- Hit the BBAF out of muscle memory and defocus the camera
- Repeat previous steps
- *Hopefully* remember to stick eletrcial tape over the viewfinder
- Set self-timer timer or program manual remote if over 30s
- Check result on camera for highlight blinkies
- Usually remember I haven't covered the viewfinder with tape and see pink banding
- Repeat the exposure with electrical tape now in place
I find this process painful and off-putting. I'm sure bad parts of my workflow are definitely my own cause e.g. I should probably be manual focusing. However, I'm terrified of leaving it on MF next time I shoot casually. I do this all the time with bracketing and leave it on by mistake.
I don't shoot often enough so that all of the above becomes second nature, but because I find the whole process so painful, I'm not motivated to get to that point.
*Anything* mirrorless can do to help with the above would be a godsend! I've looked into Kase filters in the past (I'm sure there are other brands now) and I agree they would help a lot!
Thanks again!
Great content.. but too much bla, bla at the beginning that the actual tutorial is very minimal.
True, it is a bit long winded alright. That's why I have it broken into chapters so you can go straight to the point and skip the rest of it. Some people like learning more of a story to it with a few more details on how the camera works and which setting are important. Anyway cheers for watching and ha e a great 2023.
Yes Just change D6 setup...
@pierardy1 thanks for letting me know. I didn't realise it worked for the D6 also. I will add that to the list now. We learn something new everyday 👍
Agreed with bro to much bla bla just to make a click
i can use 1/10 s for video, i need to make and step print effect
Hi David, I don't think so as the shutter speed won't go below your frame rate for video.
is this work on video mode
Hello, this will extend the shutterspeed which is only really useful for photography, ideally your shutter speed should be twice your frame rate to give you smoother footage. I have another video here on video recording tips and tricks ruclips.net/video/a3prdk-h9Ds/видео.html which might help you with your video footage.
how to extend shutter speed on d7500
Hi, unfortunately you can only do this on the Nikon mirrorless cameras. You can use a wired or wireless remote shutter release though on the D7500 to give you longer shutter releases in bulb mode.
what about z9
Hi Lauren, yes it also works for the Z8 and Z9 👍
How do you turn it off! It got switched it on- but now I cannot get it off
Hi, so you normally just repeat the steps in the video and instead of enabling it you disable it. Is it not letting you do it or what's the issue?
Does it work on Z5 ?
Hi David, sadly not, it only works for specific models like the z6ii and z7ii.