Wow. Attention to detail. Smart think ahead planning. (e.g. drill round hole to easy device removal with addition of a round plug... ) I had not been aware of this device mounting option but this video is a great sales tool. Many thanks to the JCR offroad team for their innovation here, in providing a workable solution to get nicely designed power drops to the top of the instrument panel. Well done video! Now if I can just get my Bronco!
Looks nice. Had my truck apart and it always amazes me, the passenger center HVAC tube is hardly attached to anything. They just wrapped it in foam tape and let it flop around.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I am adding USB ports to that same location and was needing to figure out how to disassemble it. Thanks so much. I was planning on running a solid wire from the battery, do you feel that stock wire will power a DC port and 4 USB plugs, or should I run the 10 gauge fused wire from the battery?
If you run a wire from the battery you will have the benefit of constant on power which is nice. 10GA is proably overkill though. At 7 to 8 feet 16ga should handle just under 10 amps.
Just installed this on 3/28. The USB part that comes with this.... you have to cut off 4 tabs that are easy... then use a knife to cut the left over flush. Then there are 6 more small protrusions under the top ledge (but on the body of the USB plug) that you will have to use a knife, chisel, or file to get them smooth with the rest of the body of the usb plug. If you are not up to doing this, then the mount will not work as you will not be able to get the USB part through the metal dash holder. The do not cover this in their video. I also ordered 2 molle panels and the shelf. Quality of the metal is great, but in that order I was sent the wrong hardware for the shelf. It was 5/16 size hardware and was too big for the bolt hole slots. The video shows 1/4" being used. I went to a hardware store and got it fixed up, but for the prices I paid for these two orders I wouldn't expect these issues.
The 2 wires that drop in that location are not connected on either end, they are dead wires unless you hook them up to the switches. The switch end still remains in the engine compartment and can be used but you will need to run a new wire from the Switch drop to the location you want it. Personally I would just add a wire from the switch drop to bumper lights. All of this is Moot if you were planning on running a light bar and a fridge or something out back.
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Wow. Attention to detail. Smart think ahead planning. (e.g. drill round hole to easy device removal with addition of a round plug... ) I had not been aware of this device mounting option but this video is a great sales tool. Many thanks to the JCR offroad team for their innovation here, in providing a workable solution to get nicely designed power drops to the top of the instrument panel. Well done video! Now if I can just get my Bronco!
Thanks for the comment!
Looks nice. Had my truck apart and it always amazes me, the passenger center HVAC tube is hardly attached to anything. They just wrapped it in foam tape and let it flop around.
Good gawd man, way to much destruction for a mount.
Not even one shot of the final installed product haha
Legit asking . . . Why this verses the accessory bar offered by ford?
This is exactly what I was looking for. I am adding USB ports to that same location and was needing to figure out how to disassemble it. Thanks so much.
I was planning on running a solid wire from the battery, do you feel that stock wire will power a DC port and 4 USB plugs, or should I run the 10 gauge fused wire from the battery?
If you run a wire from the battery you will have the benefit of constant on power which is nice. 10GA is proably overkill though. At 7 to 8 feet 16ga should handle just under 10 amps.
Can you show the installed usb hub that you put under glove box area?
Just installed this on 3/28. The USB part that comes with this.... you have to cut off 4 tabs that are easy... then use a knife to cut the left over flush. Then there are 6 more small protrusions under the top ledge (but on the body of the USB plug) that you will have to use a knife, chisel, or file to get them smooth with the rest of the body of the usb plug. If you are not up to doing this, then the mount will not work as you will not be able to get the USB part through the metal dash holder. The do not cover this in their video. I also ordered 2 molle panels and the shelf. Quality of the metal is great, but in that order I was sent the wrong hardware for the shelf. It was 5/16 size hardware and was too big for the bolt hole slots. The video shows 1/4" being used. I went to a hardware store and got it fixed up, but for the prices I paid for these two orders I wouldn't expect these issues.
We apologize for the hardware mix-up. Any more issues please don't hesitate to reach out to our customer service team.
So the way you wired it removes the ability in that spot to wire to one of the aux switches?
The 2 wires that drop in that location are not connected on either end, they are dead wires unless you hook them up to the switches. The switch end still remains in the engine compartment and can be used but you will need to run a new wire from the Switch drop to the location you want it. Personally I would just add a wire from the switch drop to bumper lights. All of this is Moot if you were planning on running a light bar and a fridge or something out back.
Would this fit the F - 150 dash too or separate part # ?
We have not tested that.
Why would a vehicle made in MI have 7mm screws. Come on Ford haven't you botched up enough on the Bronco.
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