Fixing the 3D Printed Gas Engine (so it runs, like, properly)
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2024
- okay I guess it's not really a 3d printed gas engine anymore but when does a hill become a mountain anyways
Big thanks to PCBway for sponsoring today's video: www.pcbway.com
Instagram: / bowen3dprinting
Patreon: patreon.com/user?u=84920684 
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Love how this project evolves from 80% 3d printed plastic parts to like 20% 😂
almost as if plastic is not a suitable material for combustion engines.
@@user-yz8do8vu1sit isn’t?
@@user-yz8do8vu1s how could we have known this!?
fire + plastic = melt, who would have wonderd?
the 3d printed parts were still critical to its development, so I think it still counts.
I think you’ve officially gone from “building a 3D printed engine” to “building an engine”!
still interesting but its 3d printed in the same way a gun is, it doesn't need any precisely made parts just some lightly machined metal
You need to rejet the carb. if you take the bowl off you will find two jets. One right under the throttle, called the main jet, and one in front called an idle jet. Turning that screw does basically nothing, and is only really meant to fine tune it at idle. The main jet limits fuel at high throttle, the idle jet limits fuel throughout the range. You need to go up a size or two in idle jet, and a few sizes in main jet. The needle can also be moved up or down to give it more or less fuel, and sometimes you need to change the needle out for one with a different shape in order to fine tune it so it runs good at all throttle openings, loads and rpms. Properly tuning a carb is an art, but getting it good enough to run ok is easy
This
Agreed
Very true. Seems like it’s running too lean since with the torch it starts and runs better, doesn’t accept any throttle (this carb has no accelerator pump, it’ll lean out for a short bit when giving throttle) and sometimes backfire
Agreed but did anyone think about the carb not getting the right fuel...it is a gravity feed carb and look at how his fuel bottle is...gas isn't going to get sucked up out of that bottle without a fuel pump
@@iancampbell6002 that could also be a reason for the lean condition. Unless he’s siphoning the fuel beforehand so it pulls itself out the line and into the carb
I love the switch from freedom units at buying to metric for precision machining
I'm from Canada so trust me, I hate imperial as much as the next guy ahah
Imperial works fine for precision machining. 44.09 mm or 1.736". Either way, you're dealing with decimals. I prefer imperial just because it's more intuitive to me.
the lathe is probably metric
Imperial measurement was around before the land of freedom was stolen
@@murmaider2 IDK if I'd trust the dials on the lathe tbh :D
just fyi, you can make the case 200% the current strength in the axis it's shearing just by rotating the print on its side
I have no idea how I forgot about that
I was thinking the same thing but I've never 3d printed. I have a feeling we will see that next episode.
@@Roy-al-Paign if you want a semi-scientific breakdown of it cnc kitchen has a great series on alot of this stuff
@@CamdenBowen Layer adhesion is the one property I always forget about with mechanical prints, it's okay
Crazy how the engine went from running on hopes, dreams, and starter fluid to actually being able to idle on just gas.
The project truly has come a long way from the blocky plastic days
9:44 after comparing to "3 Hours of Volkswagen 1.9TDI idling ASMR, relaxing sound", I can confirm that genuinely sounds almost exactly like a 1.9 TDI idling.
My dad had one when I was younger that was passed around from person to person, by the time I was 16 I was supposed to have it as my first car, it had just shy of 600,000kms on it but the transmission died and I think it blew up its 3rd turbo. Cool cars though
The fueling problem could be related to the acceleration pump (if those tiny ones even have those). It's likely just not getting enough fuel when you give it throttle and bogs down immediately when it gets fed more air. If you ever get that working I'd love to see you try and blow it up with nitrous afterwards lol.
@@CamdenBowenThe 1.9's are still around everywhere in Europe and 600k isn't even uncommon. Decently fuel efficient and easy to repair most of the time and the manuals can take a beating. Cheap to buy here and cool to mess around with. Seen some people get almost 500hp out of them but that's a lot of work and money to put in a Seat Cupra or lead brick Passat (the B5's have no business being that heavy) lol.
I have one now, a 2000 Jetta with a manual transmission. it’s at about 475000km and going strong… in my opinion those were some of the best cars ever made. I’m pretty sure it’s on the original turbo and injectors
Once it's complete, I think it would be cool to recreate the same thing but all metal.
I've been working on a metal version of a 4 stroke similar to camden's. Hard to balance with exams and such but once the head is done I'll make a video. You better watch out
@@themuffinfish2091 I'm an aero student trying to do the exact same thing. Having access to a machine shop is awesome but it's so addictive and I don't want my grades to nose dive any more lol.
it basically already is
guess by the time its complete it will be all metal
@@judeackland-patel6646nose down anymore. Damn
Insta-liked faster than I ever have.
Used to have a friend named Camden, he’s no longer with us. I miss him, he was a good man.
“But I figure if there’s both fuel in the engine and in the fuel then I’ll be okay.” I haven’t ever laughed so hard at an engineering video I love it
I studied machining in college, and it looks like you need some oil to lube up the cutter. The feed rate, which is turning speed and turning speed combined. Your turning speed depends on grade of medal.
My college machining instructor taught to (essentally) never use oil with carbide tooling because you could thermally shock the insert and it would break/chip. If it's not cutting well, you're looking at a feed/speed problem or a lack of rigidity. Cutting oil was exclusively used with high speed steel.
@@ZoomZoom8th then I guess it would be better to use coolant in instead. Which can be bought fairly easily.
In the beginning I was using wd40 as a cutting fluid, but later I found out that an old bottle of power steering fluid worked surprisingly well
You can find such coolant doing a simple Google search of "metal cutting coolant." For the best and cheapest way is a water solvable coolant that is used by most manufacturers.
@CamdenBowen I was wondering if there would be an improvement on the chatter if you sent the boring bar into the cylinder before making contact with the Inner bore. Then feed out of the pipe.
Definitely look into adding a crank case ventilation valve or line, just so that you don't end up with the lower end being any more of a pressure bomb than it already is with the crank trying to force it apart
8:08 My boy, you should go back in time. Engines were pretty much simple affairs back in the day. Sandwiching the bore between two plates with 4 bolts would've been sufficient. No need to weld as long as the fitment is good.
13:11 when you don't have the spreader tool, you just take a pair of scissors you don't like and cut hooks (facing outwards) into the ends. Those hooks hook into the ends of the ring and spread it. With one hand you spread the scissors and with the other you keep the ring aligned and guide it unto the cylinder.
its too emotional to see her running 🥲
This series should be called "3D Printed engine becomes more and more metal"
You should consider getting an end mill. Then you can bore out a cylinder into a solid chunk of metal. You can also cut keyways. You could also make a connecting rod out of a solid chunk of metal using the mill
Genuinely underrated channel
I’m a motorbike mechanic and specialise in classic and vintage 2 strokes and this is the first time I’ve seen someone put a 2 stroke piston in a 4 stroke set up ☺️ good on you tho for never giving up on the build 👍
i cant wait to see this engine actually doing work, running something, but i don't know what at this scale, maybe a motorized bike?
I guess it would run into its limits powering an alternator to run a few incondecand light bulbs. In fact since Wattage and Horsepower are both measurements of mechanical performance he could hook as many headlight bulbs onto it as he can find and do the math (60W per Bulb, 1000W=1,36HP)
run generator to power a 3d printer that will print a part for that engine. 3d printing engine.
@@Handyman1199 i think a motorized bike would be easier than a generator since you can use momentum and start the engine after the bike is already moving, so it only needs like half a horsepower to maintain speed.
@@Minty1337 I think the idea is to use the generator in lieu of a torque brake to see just how much power it actually makes. How much load before it stalls? Not necessarily as something to be the final application.
@@pauljs75 im worried this thing will break very quickly, even in the final version, so i'd personally test something like this with the final application, since it'd probably explode while being tested as a generator like that. it would be more fun to have it explode after it did something like power a motorized bike, rather than a small generator.
That is OFFICIALLY an idle! Most people never get even remotely this far in their engine from scratch projects! Incredibly well done!
Thanks for sticking around this far :)
@@CamdenBowen Of course! It's been an amazing ride so far and I can't wait to see where it take us next!
To fix that bogging, take out the slide from the top or the carb, and there’s a needle that you need to move up. That needle blocks the main jet so at any other throttle position than wide open, it’ll have about the same AFR.
The engine looks really cool, good work but could you mabey make it a 2t
Putting those bolts all the way through and down into the base was the ultimate final addition to your creation. It essentially clamped itself together. Rather Than explode itself apart from little plastic screw points. You knocked this out of the park. That lathe really came in handy
This is the RUclips I love most. No fancy 6-axis CNC machine, no fancy machinist certifications, just a dude with a $300 lathe, a cool idea, and a LOT of patience.
at this point he is building a real metall engine
was waiting these last few days for it to drop lolz
I’ve never seen a black iron pipe look so nice. Even the new ones usually have a little bit of rust.
Fun fact, Dawn dish soap will aggressively rust black iron to a nice bright orange in like 24 hours. (Leak tested a new outdoor gas line and forgot to wipe off the soap)
That's interesting, I use dawn dish soap as a degreaser for like everything since it's so good and also not horrible for your skin lol, never would have thought
That is so awesome, I've been wishing for years for someone on youtube to build their own engine, great job getting it to run.
make an engine that gets 100 running hours, I would love to see you try to do some reliability engineering
Haven't watched the video, can already tell it's a banger.
Finally seeing the engine run on gasoline is so impressive!
Can't wait to see you incorporate more machining into projects! It was really interesting to see how much actually goes into making a lathe usable in the last video and how its quirks still show up...
The world isn't ready for what you could create with a proper non-shaky lathe setup!
I love how much I learn about engines just watching you build better versions each time! I had no idea about cross-hatching but it makes so much sense when you put it in context!
I’ve been following this series and this is actually so inspiring, good work!
I will do 1 push up for every like
No
3.1 thousand?
On ur comment or on the video?
@@River-Stockman?
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I love this project, I've always thought about building an engine myself from scratch, and this series has taught me a lot for what I can do to make my life a bit easier
Congratulations on completing this project. I’ve been watching since the beginning. Your videos helped me get through really tough nights alone when I was going through chemo the past couple years.
Thank you
It means a lot man that you would share that, I hope that things are going well with you man!
I actually like how this transitioned from a 3D printed engine to an actual engine. I see it as a great way to prototype certain parts. You could take this even further and slowly fabricate each part in metal with plastic prototypes!
Hell yeah dude, nice work. love your engine vids!
I love seeing this series, I hope to see more iteration on this, I'd love to see you try to replace the remaining plastic parts with metal parts within the tools you have.
I love the bringus studios style editing, gets me every time
please never stop improving this engine
Bro so cool! been watching this series from the story and I love how this eloves! I would really like to see atleast another video with this engine when you will upgrade it to its max so cool keep going! :D
Using needlenose pliers to tighten nuts. Takes me back to my crazy 90s kid projects!
To mesure precisely a piston you gotta take the mesurements on it's skirt since it"s a little bit wider due to the expansion of the alloy on it's crown, the top heats up lot more than the skirt
Alot of the handbooks say to measure around 8mm from the base of the skirt to get an accurate reading, but I think they may only apply if the piston has already been used
Pistons are made from the same alloy top to bottom
Thank you for keeping this series going. I've been so looking forward to it
i've been waiting this video since months, thank you Bowen
WOW im so glad to see this return!!!!
This is AWSOME!! Great work!!
Now it's time to get it to rev up higher! Excellent work!!!
I appreciate all the hours of work put into just this video, let alone the whole series.
I wish I could do a project with you.This is cool stuff.Please keep going because you seem to be ridged despite many adversities.Thanks for the educational material
Yes!!!!! Been following this project from the beginning and I gotta say I’m impressed asf!
I just had a similar problem at work boring out a 1" hole to within 0.005". I've found that cutting the RPM down can help dramatically.
Saw your last video and was super surprised you didn’t have at least one of those vevor mini lathes. I’m sure you’ll make good use of it! I love mine
Hell yeah I’m so glad you’re going with stronger materials and it’s actually working and running on gas love these videos also your voice is nice
Awesome!! Thanks for doing this!!
i would love to see this engine run without problems keep up the work this is amazing
I appreciate the amount of work it took to make this. Keep doing what you’re doing!
You've got one hell of a hitchhiker's thumb!
if I try hard enough I can have it bend closer to like ~110 degrees maybe less lol
Awesome video! Thoroughly entertaining, enjoyable and informative. What more can you ask? Yes, you have figured out your personal, RUclips "formula". I watched the whole thing! Good work! WANT MORE!
amazing video, you are easily on my top 10 favorite channels. i wonder what comes next.
19:40 based off the faced that that carb is probably for a much larger engine it might be flooding would also explain the smoke coming out of the intake when it shuts off
This channel is going to become in how to build your own engine, loving it
Brilliant work can every upload you push into new territory for greater performance! This is epic 😎
if you ever want to make the engine larger, use some DOM steel pipe, there's no ridge in it, and is already smoth. might just need a honing and your good!
You need ignition advance via flyweights and ideally a vacuum diaphragm, in addition to tuning the jets on the carb.
The King of Random channel has a couple different videos on how to build pretty good foundries for a decent budget.
Damn exiting stuff. I'm totally in for DIY forged parts.
The screw closest to the front of carb is an air Mix screw. The one further back is fuel mixture. Try adjusting while running. Love these videos!
Maybe instead of mixing just straight up motor oil into the gas, you could try mixing in some Rotary Engine premix? That's designed to lubricate engine components while being burned, so maybe it'd work
I never EVER thought I would see this engine idle, 👏👏👏
Certainly an interesting idea to just use a toob from the store as the cylinder "bank". Also, I noticed the bits of music in the video, nice touch! Keep up the good stuff man! : )
you're in the great tropical southlands of canada, while i'm your neighbor to the north in alaska, and i've been able to keep my garage door open for weeks now. maybe the engine had trouble because it didn't have enough oxygen heh
watching your progress has been great, thanks for keeping at it, keep 'em comin'
Impressed you got the rings on first tries, those sneaky bastards love to break.
When I was younger and fixing my old PW80, I broke heaps of them aha
Impressive! This is definitely the kind of stuffni like watching!
Using a filter on the carburetor will improve the setup quite a bit since carburetors will get the fuel using vacuum. Also this seems to be running too lean since the whole thing seems so clean, so adjusting the carburetor jets will also be needed.
I wrote this a while back on your VVT video: "I would also like to see one scaled up and used in a small vehicle, like a dirtbike, four wheeler, or gokart." are you still thinking about doing this? It had ~200 likes and got a heart from you, so I believe you saw it.
I am believe me, I just need to make a reliable engine first lol
Those mixture screws you were adjusting are the idle mixture screws, it seems like the engine needs more fuel all together. Take the screw cap off of the top of the carb and pull the slide out, there should be a little needle coming out of the bottom of the slide. Take out that needle and you should see multiple notches cut out of the needle and a c clip. If you take the clip out and throw it into one of the lower notches it lifts the needle which lets more fuel in. If the clip is too high on the needle, the needle will sit too low in the carb it will be letting barely enough fuel in, and it will cause your idle mixture screws to only be tuned to an extent. Hope this helps👍
Well done mate 🎉
your projects are insane
The engine has a nice idle sound tbh
Amazing progress
I'm really loving seeing Jaguar/Range Rover innovating new reliability technology with 3D printing, good job Camden.
Nice video mate!
Finally, revisited and a new video!
to fix the issue with heating, if you cant add a radiator, then maybe a water jacket around the cylinder. it could help with keeping temps under control
Never seen anyone use an unlit torch to run an engine… inspiring!!!
Now you better build a whole damn moped with yo own parts
When you eventually buy milling maching, which is inevitable, try getting one with 3phase ac motor, they are good, ones with DC electromotors get fried after a year.
far from 3d printed now, but still a blast to follow and learn about! I'm surprised the bottom end is fine! You must have a serious passion for this now xD
Thanks for sticking around for so long :)
Awesome job man, Its fun to watch you engineer and build this this engine. The all success and failures included. build a heavier flywheel or add weights to the inside of the current one and retest. It will make everything more forgiving. then you'll be able to dial in the carb.
The funny Canadian man has finally had a running gas engine! Now I want to see a mini 2 stroke diesel like an old Detroit
I just ❤ your tenacity!
It’s absolutely insane to see the amount of work it takes to make something comparable to a big weedwacker you could buy at lowes for abt $150. Good work though, reminds of of iron man, “he made this in a CAVE with a box of SCRAPS”
You should have the valve timing so the exhaust begins to open right before BDC, to reduce load on the engine.
Also make an inline 6 with this architecture and run a go cart with it!
If you want to do that kind of work with the longer tool, you need a steady rest or lathe steady.
You need to adjust the tickover it’s the top brass screw next to the mixture screw
surely part of the explode-y block problem is down to positive crankcase pressure? allowing a crankcase breather should give a more stable run due to lower crankcase pressure on detonation stroke which would oppose the piston somewhat
Youll probably get more smooth running on the engine when the exhaust tapers in and out with some bends it in. You might not have enough Decompression on the down stroke, still sounds like it's resetting the cycle HARD. That might also explain the explosive down stroke when timing starts to dither. The flywheel wants to keep going and add cycles/torque to compression, the exhaust helps by have gases for the piston to still be expelling, almost acting like an air cushion. If you revisit this, you should show levels of exhaust and differences between em ;)
This lathe benefits a lot if it is bolted to solid surface. Guess you have seen the This Old Tony video on the mini lathe he comes to the same same conclusion. Not that it would make that long toolholder work but it would work a bit better.
i think you should try soldering some heat pipes to the outside of the cylinder block and then connect it to maybe some PC watercooling hardware to keep the temps under control. at least you should make it thicker so that it takes longer for it to heat up. I also think that it might be worth looking into a different filament, idk what you are using, but if you can find something that melts at a higher temp that would also help it. i bet you could also cool down all the other metal pieces in a similar fashion.