My current project (Chevy S10/LS Swap) started with me looking for a 240Z or a 260Z to LS Swap, but couldn't find one. I'd still like to build on someday. Dig what you're doing! Subbed.
Doing something similar but more extreme. I’m rebuilding the frame from the ground up out of DOM tubing. Same 240z, trans and engine, except I have the suspension out of a s13 Silvia. The problem I see is that the bolt holes you made will flex over time and make your trans sag. You need to support them more. Either with a larger bolt and washer, grade A preferably, or with a thicker gauge of metal. If you dont, it could cause the driveline to be out of place and in the future you will have Unnecessary vibrations causing wear and tear everywhere. Lol. In opinion anything to do with mounting should be at the minimum 12 gauge, preferably 10gauge. That Hobart can definitely handle that thickness, even up to quarter inch. Also when mounting anything that’s driveline or “vibration crucial” I would make a perfectly flat surface for a reference point. Your garage floor is not flat I guarantee you. You also need to weld a little slower. Stop and let it cool down for 30 seconds or so. You never want the metal red hot. Welds will become brittle and will have a chance to crack. But you probably already know this and Might sound like a know it all. Lol. Keep up the good work!
hey man thanks for another good video. I'm definitely appreciating this mounting videos as it's something that I personally think it's the most important swap so it's nice to see another perspective on it 😊 cheers
I hate to be a dick, but the z32 and z31s run VGs, not VQs. seeing as I got 3 z31s, that's one area I do know. Other than that yet another great film. Good length too
Yes, a million things on your mind. Please, one more. I bought the push to start with the rfid blue transponder. I think you have the same one. The instructions to hook it up stink or I do. Can you tell me which wires from the ignition go to the box? The box has red brown yellow black blue white. Waiting patiently for a reply. 510 wiring is similar to 240z
Thanks, I have been asking around. Even some of the companies catering to common Datto/Nissan swaps. Seems no one has played with the QR blocks much outside of the Altimas.
I liked your fab work demo. After watching this episode, I'm ready to try it sometime. Not so hard if you just take it slow.
My current project (Chevy S10/LS Swap) started with me looking for a 240Z or a 260Z to LS Swap, but couldn't find one. I'd still like to build on someday. Dig what you're doing! Subbed.
hey.thanks for a good fab video, like the way you take the time to show in details and not just fly over it.:-)best regards from Denmark.
The Five 10 Wall Thanks for the feedback, I'll continue this approach!
+The Five 10 Wall 👊🤙
Doing something similar but more extreme. I’m rebuilding the frame from the ground up out of DOM tubing. Same 240z, trans and engine, except I have the suspension out of a s13 Silvia. The problem I see is that the bolt holes you made will flex over time and make your trans sag. You need to support them more. Either with a larger bolt and washer, grade A preferably, or with a thicker gauge of metal. If you dont, it could cause the driveline to be out of place and in the future you will have Unnecessary vibrations causing wear and tear everywhere. Lol. In opinion anything to do with mounting should be at the minimum 12 gauge, preferably 10gauge. That Hobart can definitely handle that thickness, even up to quarter inch. Also when mounting anything that’s driveline or “vibration crucial” I would make a perfectly flat surface for a reference point. Your garage floor is not flat I guarantee you. You also need to weld a little slower. Stop and let it cool down for 30 seconds or so. You never want the metal red hot. Welds will become brittle and will have a chance to crack. But you probably already know this and Might sound like a know it all. Lol. Keep up the good work!
Did you end up finishing your frame project?
hey man thanks for another good video. I'm definitely appreciating this mounting videos as it's something that I personally think it's the most important swap so it's nice to see another perspective on it 😊 cheers
kasmerboudreau Thabks for the kind words and positive feedback!
What kind of welder did he use
Nice work, thanks.
+Dustin Hutchinson Thanks Dustin
nice work. i watched one video and hit the sub button!!!
Thanks Dusty! Very much appreciated sir!
I hate to be a dick, but the z32 and z31s run VGs, not VQs. seeing as I got 3 z31s, that's one area I do know. Other than that yet another great film. Good length too
1dickycat Perhaps I got them mixed around, I am aware the VQ is Z33 and VG is Z32
2J-Z It happens when you got a million things going on in your head.
Yes, a million things on your mind. Please, one more. I bought the push to start with the rfid blue transponder. I think you have the same one. The instructions to hook it up stink or I do. Can you tell me which wires from the ignition go to the box? The box has red brown yellow black blue white. Waiting patiently for a reply. 510 wiring is similar to 240z
+Phillip Smith Hey! I will be doing a video on this, I have a diagram I put together that I can flash up on screen as wel
So does anyone know if the QR25DE will bolt up to the CD009?
Should always remove all body work to do a swap...
I didn't find anything, perhaps someone else can give their input?
Thanks, I have been asking around. Even some of the companies catering to common Datto/Nissan swaps.
Seems no one has played with the QR blocks much outside of the Altimas.
nie urwalo sie nic ? spawy wyglądają na nie za mocne