open or uncover the brake fluid cap. you will feel how smooth you push the caliper pistons. thanks for the video, this is very helpful. keep coming. peace.
I went on ECS tuning and I just found out about the 348x36 upgrade , I have a 535i m sport, come with the factory 348x30 mm rotors instead I’ve been wondering if the bigger 36mm just bolted up to the stock calibers , obviously the pads needs to be upgraded as well ... Thank you for making this video happen . And making my journey possible! I can finally make that order with confidence .
biyistic ... genuine BMW brand from ECS ... honestly the bmw factory rotors just perform and look better than any after market ones . They also don’t rust easily !
Hi friend! First thank you for the video! I wanted to ask you if you can share where can buy the 18mm angle arm, witch are you using to remove the bracket of the caliper?!
Remember if NOT using impact wrench to remove the lug stud Loosen the studs FIRST while weight of vehicle is still on them. Also I would consider moving the jack stands to the inside of the axle usually the control arm. Peace of mind to see the jack stands right in plain sight. You might have to use a few more pumps of the jack but just tossing hopefully constructive suggestions. 1GEEMEE........Definite bonus points in the video for actually using jack stands though. Amazon sells a set of S Hooks, basically giant expanded paper clip. One end connects to a fender surface, usually a coil spring or something in that area. The other end to the caliper frame.........Keep the caliper supported and out of the way but also reduces tension on the caliper flex hose? Are the rotors being replaced due to mileage/time or just the surface rust? You You definitely have the upgraded brake package. Those rotor look like they could stop a regional jet For compressing the caliper piston, a common step is to use one of the OLD pads against the caliper piston. A C-Clamp with one end over the caliper frame and pad. Good time would be just before removing the old inner pad. Slowly and evenly turn the clamp and the piston should go flush. The reason for compressing the piston is to make up the difference in space between the new pads. Quick question....does BMW Use retaining screws for the rotors?
Good practice to replace sensor when doing the brakes given how inexpensive they are. That said, so long as they have not come into contact with the rotors while driving it is OK to not replace.
Are there wear sensors on both sides? I looked up a brake kit (genuine BMW they say) and it only comes with one wear sensor. Can anybody confirm if the wear sensors are on the driver side only?
nice video , can you tell me why not grease the guide bolts plz? i have a f10 535 xdrive and my rear brakes wear lot faster than the front ones (like double the mils) and the front rotors seems scratchs but the front pads are like new . do you have the same ichue on yours ? tks for the video
I was told by the dealer that rear pads usually wear out quicker than the front ones. Nothing to worry about I guess. They also told me pads wear out quicker when TC is going on and off when driving during the winter season
It's normal,mine it's doing the same.. If you drive with the cruise control a lot when it brakes it's doing it from the rear wheels so that is one of many aspects. Driving in the city with autohold it will wear them a lot!
Shouldn't have to. The clamp on the caliper piston will force the fluid back into the master cylinder. The grip clamp works fine, though I prefer a screw-type C clamp. This way the system stays closed and there is no reason to bleed the system.
The video was helpful, but i found something didderent things while replacing my 2014 535i. First, The bit socket is not 9mm, but It is actually 7mm to use to remove brakepad housing Second, You don't even remove the two bolts to unmount rotors, just try to remove them then there's a way and space wide enough to remove rotor. Same way to put a new rotor back. It will save time and It's hard to unscrew them
Philip With a little bit of fiddeling you can get around it without having to screw the pistons out. Just screw out the whole assembly. I definetely used a 9mm on my 2012 535i xDrive.
Авто/Мото
This is the right way to make a how to. No bs, no talking, straight action. Thank you for sharing mate.
Great instructions without voice, I like that you display the torque specifications , great video thanks much !!
open or uncover the brake fluid cap. you will feel how smooth you push the caliper pistons.
thanks for the video, this is very helpful. keep coming. peace.
Good stuff! Thanks for making a video. Today, I will be doing my brakes (348x30).
Perfect video and instructions! Thanks a lot
Thanks for that Video mate
I went on ECS tuning and I just found out about the 348x36 upgrade ,
I have a 535i m sport, come with the factory 348x30 mm rotors instead
I’ve been wondering if the bigger 36mm just bolted up to the stock calibers , obviously the pads needs to be upgraded as well ...
Thank you for making this video happen . And making my journey possible! I can finally make that order with confidence .
where can i get the bigger rotors and pads?
Hey Mark. I also have a 535 M sport....what brand of brakes and rotors do you recommend?
biyistic ... genuine BMW brand from ECS ... honestly the bmw factory rotors just perform and look better than any after market ones . They also don’t rust easily !
Joel Garcia ... buy the genuine BMW brakes on ECS Tuning , the best bang for your buck
Can you add the link?
very good explanation!
Hi friend! First thank you for the video! I wanted to ask you if you can share where can buy the 18mm angle arm, witch are you using to remove the bracket of the caliper?!
How would you know if you have the high speed breaking I have a regular 2012 528i rwd.
Thanks for your DIY video. Very useful video for me.
Part numbers would be a good addition
Where’d you get those sick rims?
Great video! Are there supposed to be pad wear sensors on both sides? My 2011 535i xDrive just had a sensor on the driver side.
It's left hand only, regardless if LHD/RHD.
Nice
Is this process the same for the M Sport model? I have a 2011 535 M Sport that needs front brakes.
For anyone else who was confused as I was, my 535d msport US had a 7mm, instead of the 9mm hex bit in the video.
Which brands do you recommend? thank you for videos
For the Front always original BMW Disc because you will have trouble with other Brands . Rear ATE,Brembo or Textar or Original
How did you know your 535i had the 36MM? I have a 2012 535i M Sport, and there are 30mm on the car, but maybe that was in error from the prior owner?
How much was that torque wrench?
Which manufacturer are those rotors and how much did u pay for them?
Thankssss
Nice close up of replacing the caliper spring. That thing can be a bitch!
must be korean....saw newpaper..../Good gob.Thank's
Remember if NOT using impact wrench to remove the lug stud Loosen the studs FIRST while weight of vehicle is still on them.
Also I would consider moving the jack stands to the inside of the axle usually the control arm. Peace of mind to see the jack stands right in plain sight. You might have to use a few more pumps of the jack but just tossing hopefully constructive suggestions.
1GEEMEE........Definite bonus points in the video for actually using jack stands though.
Amazon sells a set of S Hooks, basically giant expanded paper clip. One end connects to a fender surface, usually a coil spring or something in that area. The other end to the caliper frame.........Keep the caliper supported and out of the way but also reduces tension on the caliper flex hose?
Are the rotors being replaced due to mileage/time or just the surface rust? You
You definitely have the upgraded brake package. Those rotor look like they could stop a regional jet
For compressing the caliper piston, a common step is to use one of the OLD pads against the caliper piston. A C-Clamp with one end over the caliper frame and pad. Good time would be just before removing the old inner pad. Slowly and evenly turn the clamp and the piston should go flush. The reason for compressing the piston is to make up the difference in space between the new pads.
Quick question....does BMW Use retaining screws for the rotors?
At the Middle under the car where do you put the jack?
???
There is a middle piece of metal which is clearly visible, a little bit infront of the oil drain plug. It's not under the plastic, it's silver metal.
What if you can't reset the brake lights, after you replaced the Rotor & Brake pads and sensor? could it be a faulty sensor?
Try doing it WITH THE HANDBRAKE OFF and engine not running.
Is it mandatory to change the sensor wire every time we change the pads ? Ans is it ok if the sensor is after market or should we use bmw?
Good practice to replace sensor when doing the brakes given how inexpensive they are. That said, so long as they have not come into contact with the rotors while driving it is OK to not replace.
hey what tool did you use at 18:57 to hold the wheel?
Wheel hanger
Do you need break sensors for every wheel?
No. Just front left and rear right.
Are there wear sensors on both sides? I looked up a brake kit (genuine BMW they say) and it only comes with one wear sensor. Can anybody confirm if the wear sensors are on the driver side only?
front just driver side....rear just passenger side.
LH side only. Forget if it is left hand drive or right and drive... Left hand from looking towards the front of the car.
No grease on the caliper slide pins?
BMW say NO, so he did OK.
35nm for the guide bolts, not 55nm.
nice video , can you tell me why not grease the guide bolts plz? i have a f10 535 xdrive and my rear brakes wear lot faster than the front ones (like double the mils) and the front rotors seems scratchs but the front pads are like new . do you have the same ichue on yours ? tks for the video
I was told by the dealer that rear pads usually wear out quicker than the front ones. Nothing to worry about I guess. They also told me pads wear out quicker when TC is going on and off when driving during the winter season
ok tks for your time
It's normal,mine it's doing the same..
If you drive with the cruise control a lot when it brakes it's doing it from the rear wheels so that is one of many aspects. Driving in the city with autohold it will wear them a lot!
I think the guide bolts should be greased a little. With proper red rubber grease so that the grease doesn’t hurt the rubber boots.
Did you have to bleed the brake lines after installing the new brakes?
Shouldn't have to. The clamp on the caliper piston will force the fluid back into the master cylinder. The grip clamp works fine, though I prefer a screw-type C clamp. This way the system stays closed and there is no reason to bleed the system.
No need to bleed brakes unless you removed/replaced calipher.
The caliper slide bolts DO need to have grease applied to them.
BMW does not use grease on the slides.
So macht man das nicht, Bremsbelag Auflageflächen reinigen und Paste drauf und Bolzen schmieren.
Richtig, so kenne ich das auch. Bolzen vorher reinigen
The video was helpful, but i found something didderent things while replacing my 2014 535i.
First, The bit socket is not 9mm, but It is actually 7mm to use to remove brakepad housing
Second, You don't even remove the two bolts to unmount rotors, just try to remove them then there's a way and space wide enough to remove rotor. Same way to put a new rotor back. It will save time and It's hard to unscrew them
I have the same year and model.of vehicle. What brand of rotors and brakes do you recommend?
Yes
Its not 9mm but 7 and the screw to unbolt rotor is not 6 but smaller
This System has 9MM hexagon style pin 348mm /330mm is with 7mm
At 2:47 you say H9 socket. What is that in mm ? I cant seem to find one anywhere
It is indeed A Hex 9mm! Aka Inbus 9mm (It is a special size)
@@Italiano9091 I struggled like mad to get one. Finally got it then when i did the job, it turned out to be a bloody 7mm
Philip
With a little bit of fiddeling you can get around it without having to screw the pistons out. Just screw out the whole assembly.
I definetely used a 9mm on my 2012 535i xDrive.
@@Italiano9091 That's where i made the mistake. Mine is a very basic F10 520d. Couldn't afford all the fancy stuff lol
But I'm lucky. I already thought that I have to buy a new 9mm key ...
Deine Scheibe war noch gut 😯
신문지가 한국 신문이네요
Very nice but to replace brake wear sensor every time you do a brake job hell no
wecome to the BMW universe
@@nickeudes 😂😂😂😂
It's a cheap part. $12??? Maybe you should have kept your bicycle?
Well done for displaying torque values and for replacing the disc with a 2 piece one and not a 1 piece cheap ass replica.
It would be nice if you'd open your mouth and let people know what you're doing step by step
Do you want him to hold your hand also? All was very clear.
Your car would look much better if you painted the brake calipers red
How hard would it been to have added commentary?...A BIG THUMBS DOWN FOR YOU!!