Your videos are consistently the best out there. You have saved me so much TIME and MONEY on my E92 3-Series and F25 X3. Instructions are always spot on, clear and concisely made. THANK-YOU for being such a valuable resource to the BMW community.
Thank you Jay! I talk to a lot of great people such as yourself trying to save money and it is fun to work on your own car. BMW's can be intimidating and I enjoy sharing my knowledge.
Similar to other comments, I looked at a couple of other videos related to changing brakes on our 2011 X3 and yours was by far the most complete, consise and accurate. In my instance, the brakes were actually fine but during a previous repair someone had not secured the sensor wire and it wore through and kicked out the brake replace warning. Thanks again for the great instructions!
Thanks for the video. It was a great guide with my recent brake job. Just a note: there's no need to pop off the 8mm hex slider bolts if you're doing both pads and rotors. By popping off the 16mm carrier bolts, the caliper will come out all in one piece and then you can pop off the pads
Great video! I just changed my front brakes and rotors, easy thanks to you! My 2017 X3 2.8i caliper hex bolts however weren't 7mm but they were 8mm. FYI, installed Akebono pads (kit came with the sensor cable) and Zimmerman rotors. I picked up new rotor screws and 16mm bolts from the dealership.
Hi rkim, Great to hear my video was helpful! Thanks for the added information. You will have to let me know how the zimmerman rotors and akebono pads hold up.
Best X3 brake job video I've seen - and I've been looking at a lot of them before I do mine tomorrow! Great job, really appreciate the time and effort you put into this
Just watched the whole guide through and feeling a lot less terrified of trying this myself! The amount of money I'd save makes this hard to handover to the dealer to do. Do you have a video on the rear brakes as well? Regardless thank you so much for such a thorough guide. Help's up beginner Diyers a ton.
Thanks Mario! My friend did a great job. I ordered a GoPro as well to hopefully make better quality videos. Thanks for the suggestions! I will definitely do another brake flush video with the new camera once it arrives. Thank you for the support over the years! Zion says HI!
Hi Doug, Sorry to hear that. It seems like a lot of BMW's are having this issue. Not sure if it is a quality thing with rotors from BMW. If they are above the minimum measurement by .5mm they can be turned using an on car brake lathe but I would recommend pads and rotors. To me it is still a better repair.
Hi Seth, Normally I purchase from the dealer but I do get a wholesale discount which helps. I started using FCP Euro as well since they give a lifetime warranty. I am going to give them a try for my X5 E70 I recently purchased and see how the quality is. I plan on making a video on it when I do.
Awesome tutorial! Huge props for actually getting shots of what you were doing versus most videos that show the back of someone's hand. The pin bolts for me were 8mm as well.
@@warrenlaube3148 It may need to be reset using a scan tool. I have run into that before. You can try to do a battery reset first. Disconnect the negative cable for 5 minutes. Reconnect, set time and date, try to reset again.
Great great video !!!! I saw you had to change the mounting bolts, is that absolutely necessary?? i didnt understand about the higher torque you said it had after use ? thanks
Hi Mike, The hardware is technically one time use per repair instructions. I believe the caliper bracket to swivel bearing is 120 Newton meters. Glad you found the video helpful!
awesome...thank you...did you happenen ti replace the rears yet m (im going to check your videos).....Ive got a 07 750li ive done a lot of work to, never swapped those bolts, maybe i should have 🤦♂️.
I have a few videos on rear brakes. I have on on the F15 X5 which should be pretty much the same thing. You are most likely ok with your 750 but I would change them next time you need brakes replaced. I don't like to compromise when it is a safety item. Hope this video helps. ruclips.net/video/QYpRiGgS8dY/видео.html
@@AskTheCarExperts Dude your AMAZING. You do such a great job with these videos 💯💯👏...including all the torque is key. Thank you so much. I will be buying new bolts for front and back on the x3 and definitely swapping on my 7 next time also.
Haven't seen any video that actually done it to the manufacturer repair instructions. Hub surface must be clean and no grease on anything. Brake carrier must have no abrasives used on cleaning, only allowed is brake cleaner and lube with BMW brake grease. Personally I never had any brakes fail due to seals in master cylinders getting rolled or debris going back. But I tend to find that using a mini prybar at the brake sensor hole area, you can literlly push the piston completely back and don't really need any other tool to push the piston back. Though with the brake bleeder screw open, most brake piston retractions, you can even use your hands to push the piston back provided there isn't too much resistance due to size and internal corrosion. The brake bleeder screw open with a miniture prybar can speed up allot and is one of the quickest ways to get things done. Even a quick pedal bleed job after is doable, two people. If with allot of moisture, pressure bleed out the fluid, 2L recommended. DOT4 LV. I would open the brake fluid reservoir to relief any pressure during retraction, it is stated to draw out excessive fluid first. But yeah, at the dealer you will see those rotors come off by themselve, quite often impacting the bolt off the carriers is enough to get the rotor loose. One thing about the grease on the hub, its like an uneven surface and sometimes causes brake shudder, especially older models. Good idea on your part to replace as many bolts as possible, the anti-rattle clip is recommended every 48 months. While it is recommended to replace the sensor on every job, personally I have a stash of new wear sensors, so go figure, there is always the correct way to do it and the incorrect way to do things. After a couple of years of brakes at European dealers, you sort of know every trick in the book and everything that breaks. VW and their shitty wear sensor connectors on the vehicles, if you come across one, you'll be in a very bad day.
is it absolutely necessary to replace those mounting bolts due to stretch ?? they didnt comecwith the kit from FCP euro..and i cant find locally...trying to do this job tomorrow
@@mikes8207 I would, for the F25 it is a stretch bolt design. M12x1.5 (75nm + 45 degrees + 10 degrees). Same for front and rear, be sure to check the bolt. Most models since the F series use stretch bolts.
After talking with this videos creator, I bought all new bolts from O'riley Auto, which was the only place local that had them. Only had time to do the fronts. I just hope i got the torque right. I did the 75nm but was unsure what that 45° meant (ive never came across that on my 07 750) so after the 75nm i gave it a good snug up. And im also hoping the bolts i bought were "stretch" bokts. Lol. Im definitely no mechanic but I do a lot of the work on the cars, especially mine. The x3 is a lot easier to do things like oil change brakes etx etc. Thank you again for the reply. You guys are both very knowledgeable and helped a lot. 👏👏👍👍💯💯
@@mikes8207 Learn the right way is how to do it, what you do is tighten to 75 nm and then a clockwise 45 degrees and then another 10 degrees. The angle is what stretches the bolts. The angles for these is kinda bad since its very narrow. So a torque angle gauge, electronic torque wrench with angle mode or even a protractor to mark the angle. I usually use a SO Techangle so its kinda quick, otherwise sometimes I also use a sharp tip correction pen to mark positions. Don't let this confuse you, as some cars are a bit awkward for torquing, and require an odd torque setting like older VW hub nuts, its like torque to a fairly high value and then go back 180 degrees and then clockwise a couple of degrees.
@@AskTheCarExperts Another question! I've been looking at rotor and pad kits on amazon and have found several. Some of the don't seem to show a locater/holding bolt hole for the rotor which is strange. Also, where would you recommend getting a new locater bolt and two caliper bolts since those are one-time use bolts?
@@jacobspence-olson I would use caution on aftermarket parts. BMW OEM is best. Or FCP with lifetime warranty. Hardware should be purchased from your local dealer.
Which torque spec are you looking for? What you may be noticing is just having the torque wrench reach the correct torque. Then I often do a second check to the same reading.
@AskTheCarExperts I have a 2016 x3 and I will be using torque wrench on the front brakes for the first time. When I watched your video I noticed you mentioned not to torque to 180.
Does anyone know what the part number to the plastic clip that clips the brake sensor and speed sensor together? The white plastic piece? I broke it when replacing my front brakes and want to replace it. Clip shown clearly at 16:24
@@AskTheCarExperts Just watching now 😎 Been diagosing kenmore washer codes this morning 😖 An OBD port would be handy on the washing machine vs decoding LEDs on the panel.
@@MarioDallaRiva OH man, Been there a few times with my stove, washer, and dryer. I hope you get it solved bud! I always like to try and fix it before considering replacemet.
Hi Dave, Brakes are a safety item so I always felt it should be done by the book. Leaving any component loose could be very dangerous. I had one tech leave a caliper loose and it popped up while I was test driving the car for a different issue and it cut the rim open like a can opener!
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Your videos are consistently the best out there. You have saved me so much TIME and MONEY on my E92 3-Series and F25 X3. Instructions are always spot on, clear and concisely made. THANK-YOU for being such a valuable resource to the BMW community.
Thank you Jay! I talk to a lot of great people such as yourself trying to save money and it is fun to work on your own car. BMW's can be intimidating and I enjoy sharing my knowledge.
Similar to other comments, I looked at a couple of other videos related to changing brakes on our 2011 X3 and yours was by far the most complete, consise and accurate. In my instance, the brakes were actually fine but during a previous repair someone had not secured the sensor wire and it wore through and kicked out the brake replace warning. Thanks again for the great instructions!
Thank you! Sorry to hear about the sensor. Very common issue. I often see that after a brake flush because it was left unsecured.
Thank you for the tutorial. Replacement was pretty straight forward. For me the biggest take away was the reset shown at the end.
Great to hear Melvin!
Perfect instructions- I just completed my pads and rotors this afternoon without a hitch. Cheers!
@@Browncords Awesome bud! Cheers!
Thanks for the video. It was a great guide with my recent brake job. Just a note: there's no need to pop off the 8mm hex slider bolts if you're doing both pads and rotors. By popping off the 16mm carrier bolts, the caliper will come out all in one piece and then you can pop off the pads
Very true, I like to show the full steps. Some people have trouble doing that trick. Glad it helped!
Clever...also using a channel lock was smart...I always used a clamp and old pad but the locks are much easier...always learning
PRO material! Love it, I salute You Sir!
@QbaNH Thanks Pawel!
Fantastic video, followed the video and everything went perfectly.
Thank you from the UK 🇬🇧
Hi Simon, That is great! Thanks for commenting@ Cheers from the USA
Great video! I just changed my front brakes and rotors, easy thanks to you! My 2017 X3 2.8i caliper hex bolts however weren't 7mm but they were 8mm. FYI, installed Akebono pads (kit came with the sensor cable) and Zimmerman rotors. I picked up new rotor screws and 16mm bolts from the dealership.
Hi rkim, Great to hear my video was helpful! Thanks for the added information. You will have to let me know how the zimmerman rotors and akebono pads hold up.
Great video! Just to note, on my X3 the bolts were a 8mm hex instead of a 7mm.
Thank you! Thanks for sharing your hex size!
Best X3 brake job video I've seen - and I've been looking at a lot of them before I do mine tomorrow! Great job, really appreciate the time and effort you put into this
Thank you for the comment and your very welcome 😀
Awesome video! Thought there would be more to it coming from BMW. Pretty straight forward - Thanks!!!! Loved your "helper" too!!
Brakes on this BMW is super easy! Zion is an awesome helper 😀
Thank you! Very detailed and included torque values-much appreciated. Cute doggo too :)
Thanks for the video. Perfect step by step. Mine also were 8mm not 7mm. Regardless, I appreciate the help.
Hi Wayne! Glad my video helped! Thanks for posting!
Just watched the whole guide through and feeling a lot less terrified of trying this myself! The amount of money I'd save makes this hard to handover to the dealer to do. Do you have a video on the rear brakes as well? Regardless thank you so much for such a thorough guide. Help's up beginner Diyers a ton.
Awesome Nick. I do have some videos on rear brakes as well.
Zion: Test drive?!? Don’t you mean walk??
Slick, Roger nicely done. Super professional 👍🏼
How about a brake fluid flush/refresh sometime on a bimmer?
Thanks Mario! My friend did a great job. I ordered a GoPro as well to hopefully make better quality videos. Thanks for the suggestions! I will definitely do another brake flush video with the new camera once it arrives. Thank you for the support over the years! Zion says HI!
Nice video! My rotors are warped so i assume new ones if we cant turn them? Original 2014 x3 149k miles
Hi Doug, Sorry to hear that. It seems like a lot of BMW's are having this issue. Not sure if it is a quality thing with rotors from BMW. If they are above the minimum measurement by .5mm they can be turned using an on car brake lathe but I would recommend pads and rotors. To me it is still a better repair.
Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. What size is that impact driver?
Hello Silver Soldier! That is a 1/2 inch Milwalkee M18. Love this impact gun. Worth every penny. Here is the link: amzn.to/3E5R31Q
Thank you for this video! Where do you purchase your parts? I prefer genuine, but would be open to alternatives with recommendation.
Hi Seth, Normally I purchase from the dealer but I do get a wholesale discount which helps. I started using FCP Euro as well since they give a lifetime warranty. I am going to give them a try for my X5 E70 I recently purchased and see how the quality is. I plan on making a video on it when I do.
Awesome tutorial! Huge props for actually getting shots of what you were doing versus most videos that show the back of someone's hand. The pin bolts for me were 8mm as well.
Glad it was helpful!
You should put a video up of how to turn the light off on the dash
do you happen to have a video of the rear brake pad and rotor replacement? Thanks!
Hello, This should be very similar to this video on an X5 I have.
ruclips.net/video/QYpRiGgS8dY/видео.html
Fabulous detail and great camera work.
Thanks Doug! Thankfully I had some help to tag team this. Such an awesome look!
Hello,i'd like to know brand of that wrench with torque (digital), and yes great video.
Thank you. My digital torque wrench is Snap On.
Hey im looking ti replace my brake calipers just wanted to know the specification and the brand you used?
I would use OEM or an OE equivalent. I like to use FCP Euro due to the lifetime warranty.
Nice video very well done. I keep getting a reset impossible message for the front brakes though. Any suggestions?
Hi Warren, Thank you. What year is your X3? And did you replace the sensor with an OEM part?
@@AskTheCarExperts 2011 and yes used an oem sensor
@@warrenlaube3148 It may need to be reset using a scan tool. I have run into that before. You can try to do a battery reset first. Disconnect the negative cable for 5 minutes. Reconnect, set time and date, try to reset again.
Great great video !!!! I saw you had to change the mounting bolts, is that absolutely necessary?? i didnt understand about the higher torque you said it had after use ? thanks
Hi Mike, The hardware is technically one time use per repair instructions. I believe the caliper bracket to swivel bearing is 120 Newton meters. Glad you found the video helpful!
awesome...thank you...did you happenen ti replace the rears yet m (im going to check your videos).....Ive got a 07 750li ive done a lot of work to, never swapped those bolts, maybe i should have 🤦♂️.
I have a few videos on rear brakes. I have on on the F15 X5 which should be pretty much the same thing. You are most likely ok with your 750 but I would change them next time you need brakes replaced. I don't like to compromise when it is a safety item. Hope this video helps. ruclips.net/video/QYpRiGgS8dY/видео.html
@@AskTheCarExperts Dude your AMAZING. You do such a great job with these videos 💯💯👏...including all the torque is key. Thank you so much. I will be buying new bolts for front and back on the x3 and definitely swapping on my 7 next time also.
@@mikes8207 Your very welcome Mike!
Fantastic tutorial!
Thanks Scott!
Nice work!! Have same for rears? same car and year...
Hi Scott, The rear is very similar to the front. I do not have a video in the rear for this vehicle model yet.
Haven't seen any video that actually done it to the manufacturer repair instructions.
Hub surface must be clean and no grease on anything.
Brake carrier must have no abrasives used on cleaning, only allowed is brake cleaner and lube with BMW brake grease.
Personally I never had any brakes fail due to seals in master cylinders getting rolled or debris going back.
But I tend to find that using a mini prybar at the brake sensor hole area, you can literlly push the piston completely back and don't really need any other tool to push the piston back.
Though with the brake bleeder screw open, most brake piston retractions, you can even use your hands to push the piston back provided there isn't too much resistance due to size and internal corrosion.
The brake bleeder screw open with a miniture prybar can speed up allot and is one of the quickest ways to get things done.
Even a quick pedal bleed job after is doable, two people. If with allot of moisture, pressure bleed out the fluid, 2L recommended.
DOT4 LV.
I would open the brake fluid reservoir to relief any pressure during retraction, it is stated to draw out excessive fluid first.
But yeah, at the dealer you will see those rotors come off by themselve, quite often impacting the bolt off the carriers is enough to get the rotor loose.
One thing about the grease on the hub, its like an uneven surface and sometimes causes brake shudder, especially older models.
Good idea on your part to replace as many bolts as possible, the anti-rattle clip is recommended every 48 months.
While it is recommended to replace the sensor on every job, personally I have a stash of new wear sensors, so go figure, there is always the correct way to do it and the incorrect way to do things.
After a couple of years of brakes at European dealers, you sort of know every trick in the book and everything that breaks.
VW and their shitty wear sensor connectors on the vehicles, if you come across one, you'll be in a very bad day.
is it absolutely necessary to replace those mounting bolts due to stretch ?? they didnt comecwith the kit from FCP euro..and i cant find locally...trying to do this job tomorrow
@@mikes8207 I would, for the F25 it is a stretch bolt design. M12x1.5 (75nm + 45 degrees + 10 degrees). Same for front and rear, be sure to check the bolt. Most models since the F series use stretch bolts.
After talking with this videos creator, I bought all new bolts from O'riley Auto, which was the only place local that had them. Only had time to do the fronts. I just hope i got the torque right. I did the 75nm but was unsure what that 45° meant (ive never came across that on my 07 750) so after the 75nm i gave it a good snug up. And im also hoping the bolts i bought were "stretch" bokts. Lol. Im definitely no mechanic but I do a lot of the work on the cars, especially mine. The x3 is a lot easier to do things like oil change brakes etx etc. Thank you again for the reply. You guys are both very knowledgeable and helped a lot. 👏👏👍👍💯💯
@@mikes8207 Learn the right way is how to do it, what you do is tighten to 75 nm and then a clockwise 45 degrees and then another 10 degrees. The angle is what stretches the bolts. The angles for these is kinda bad since its very narrow. So a torque angle gauge, electronic torque wrench with angle mode or even a protractor to mark the angle. I usually use a SO Techangle so its kinda quick, otherwise sometimes I also use a sharp tip correction pen to mark positions. Don't let this confuse you, as some cars are a bit awkward for torquing, and require an odd torque setting like older VW hub nuts, its like torque to a fairly high value and then go back 180 degrees and then clockwise a couple of degrees.
Hi. Plse provide the type of gloves used and provide the brands as well. Also advise where to obtain the torque settings. Thank you
Hello, This is the brand I normally use: amzn.to/3GLTybF Torque specs are noted during the video steps.
@@AskTheCarExperts hi. Thank you. Regarding the torque specs. I would prefer a site to find the specs for various bmw models. Kindly advise. Thank you
@@atulbava7416 No site available. Sorry. You could subscribe to All Data
gotta question? does the brake pad sensor for bmw have to be specific with a different pad or it doesn't matter
Hello, The sensors are vehicle specific but some of the parts do cross over to different BMW models.
Very helpful, thank you.
What brand/model is the torque wrench? I like the swivel head.
Hi Jerome, Snap On torque wrench
Perfect job
Thanks bro!
Not fair! You had DOGO help you... Without him you could't do it.
Zion is an awesome member of the family 😀
Great vid as always
What about bleeding the brakes? How do you do that and at what point do you do that?
@jacobspence-olson You would need to bleed brakes if the hydraulic circuit is opened ie. Caliper replacemet, hydraulic unit, brake lines.
@@AskTheCarExperts so not for pad replacement then?
@jacobspence-olson Correct, No need to bleed with pad replacement. Just adjust the brake fluid resevoir to the correct level.
@@AskTheCarExperts Another question! I've been looking at rotor and pad kits on amazon and have found several. Some of the don't seem to show a locater/holding bolt hole for the rotor which is strange. Also, where would you recommend getting a new locater bolt and two caliper bolts since those are one-time use bolts?
@@jacobspence-olson I would use caution on aftermarket parts. BMW OEM is best. Or FCP with lifetime warranty. Hardware should be purchased from your local dealer.
Curious if this process is the same on a F26 BMW X4?
I am sure it is very similar. You would need the wiring diagram from a pre LCI and an LCI and then pin Accordingly
Great video!!
New to this; could you explain the 179 total torque. Are you doing each bolt twice to include the angle adjustment?
Which torque spec are you looking for? What you may be noticing is just having the torque wrench reach the correct torque. Then I often do a second check to the same reading.
@AskTheCarExperts I have a 2016 x3 and I will be using torque wrench on the front brakes for the first time. When I watched your video I noticed you mentioned not to torque to 180.
@@ericalfred4988 For which component? Wheels, bracket to hub, caliper to braket?
@@AskTheCarExperts bracket to hub
@@ericalfred4988 Bracket to hub is 180 Newton meters
Excellent!!! A+++
Hi Jim! Glad the video was helpful!
Does anyone know what the part number to the plastic clip that clips the brake sensor and speed sensor together? The white plastic piece? I broke it when replacing my front brakes and want to replace it. Clip shown clearly at 16:24
Hi Ryan, I can look that up for you. Can you post the last seven of your VIN?
@@AskTheCarExperts yes! The last 7 is 0W79482. 2017 x3 28xdrive
What about brake bleeding ?
I do have some videos on brake bleeding but for a brake job bleeding is not required.
is the car resting on the jack stands too? I'm not sure where to put the jack stands
nvm just seen its not in the video
@@dylankyang Nope just there for safety if my jack gives out. I have seen it happen.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks! Ya I'm about to do my brakes and terrified of that happening lol so i want all the safety precautions possible
Carp! I just noticed this video 😼
My friend did the recording using his GoPro and the editing.
@@AskTheCarExperts Just watching now 😎 Been diagosing kenmore washer codes this morning 😖 An OBD port would be handy on the washing machine vs decoding LEDs on the panel.
@@MarioDallaRiva OH man, Been there a few times with my stove, washer, and dryer. I hope you get it solved bud! I always like to try and fix it before considering replacemet.
Buen trabajo gringo
De nada Salvador. Gracias amigo!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
not many people use a torque wrench to do a brake job!!
Hi Dave, Brakes are a safety item so I always felt it should be done by the book. Leaving any component loose could be very dangerous. I had one tech leave a caliper loose and it popped up while I was test driving the car for a different issue and it cut the rim open like a can opener!