I bought a 50 foot boom lift that has these type of hydraulic valves for all functions ,it drives forward but not reverse, you showed how simple it is to take apart. Thanks
Thanks for getting back to me, I took it apart and carefully tried to put the shaft back in, I was gentle and I had a hard time putting it back in like almost 5 min. I think it is compromised, maybe have to get a new one, it's only the middle part that I would need, any recommendations?
@@stephendomnanovits7252 unfortunately I don't know if the individual parts are available for purchase but you could see if there is a hydraulic shop in your area, they may know more. Bring the valve with you if possible.
Hey welcome back , been a while. Hope all is well and you had a good holiday. This is cool, it's different seeing you cleaning a hydraulic valve and testing the coils. Here's to a great 2021!
Actually doing really well. Was busy with work the past few months so less time for RUclips but getting my shit together now 😅 As for this valve I had to clean it for work so figured I'd film it at the same time. I like to do a bit of everything on this channel even if it may be tougher to keep subscribers that don't share all the same interests. 🤷♂️
@@nothandsomebuthandy I did the 3rd function on a John Deere after watching video, not sure why valve was stuck but I disassembled worked the valve free reassembled and worked like a charm. This particular valve was different side to side so I assume if you put together backwards it probably would not work correctly.
I understand how you take it apart, I trouble that I am having, when I remove the 4 bolts, hydraulic fluid keep coming out, I'm afraid I will lose too much fluid as I investigate the solenoid valve, Can you make video on how to remove without making a huge mess.
@@stephendomnanovits7252 it depends on the equipment and at what point your valve is positioned. If there is a large amount of fluid in lines above the valve with no shutoff it will leak. My valve did leak until the lines were empty. I had a bucket to catch the oil.
Thank you for taking the time to disassemble, inspect and repair the faulty directional valve in the video, sir. That's really the only way that folks are going to actually understand how these valves work. We have a backhoe here that has an intermittent reverse issue. CAT calls the hydraulic valve that controls their "FWD-REV shuttle shift" operation the "Shuttle Control Valve Group." My question is whether or not there may be a way to buy parts for the directional valve to affect our own repairs? I'd also like to know which tools are normally employed to remove a valve assembly like the one in the video? Our valve also has four deep holes, but it's mounted in such a way that one cannot see down into the holes. Please keep up the great work.
Every one I have removed so far were held on with hex socket bolts (removed with Allen keys). To speed things up I bought long Allen keys and cut the short end off and use them in a cordless drill.
As far as purchasing parts I'm not sure, maybe a local hydraulic shop could help you there. What I have done is compiled a few new and used valves so I can just pop in a spare when needed and clean up the faulty one when I have time. If you can find the valve manufacturer and model some of the websites have detailed documentation on their products that is handy when sourcing spare parts.
@@nothandsomebuthandy Great tool variation, sir. As I can't get my head over the valve assembly, it's pretty much impossible to see down into those holes. If you wouldn't mind, would you give me an idea of what the typical size is for the allen bolts used to hold one of these valves down? Thank you very much.
I found this on google, not sure if it's your exact model but it's the same size Hex key I use: 260-8590: CAT SHUTTLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, Attributes: • 3/16 female Hex head • 7/16-20 UNF male thread mount
@@nothandsomebuthandy It turned out that the "hex socket" bolts holding the valve assembly in place required a 4 mm allen wrench to break them loose. This seems pretty simple, but it wasn't. The two bolts closet to the rear of the machine could be broken loose with a regular 4 mm "L-shaped" allen wrench. The two bolts closest to the front of the machine, on the other hand, required me to "modify" the allen wrench. In other words, I had to shorten the long end of the allen wrench with an angle grinder to make the tool work. For anyone else with this problem, the wrench was shortened with a metal cutoff wheel mounted to our angle grinder. By the way. do you think it might be possible to get parts for our directional control valve? Although CAT sells the valve assembly -- at a premium -- I do know that this assembly was made by in the USA by a company called Vickers.
4:23 the center piece im trying to take it off but it resist .. is there a special way or its resisting because of plastic dust like you found inside ??
Hi dear, thanks for the very informative video on how to clean the magnetic valve. May i ask if what the possible issue of my wing van? because when i push the switch button up and down on the left side it goes normally but when i do that the other wing at the right goes up when i push the up button and even the down button the right wing will not go down but it goes up. When i tried the switch of the right wing same happened no down movement and same happened when i do that to the left switch up and down button the left wing react.
@@nothandsomebuthandy not yet, but i will try it tomorrow. So power supply will be the possible cause for that? Or a clogging shaft? Thank you for your reply.
@@nothandsomebuthandy thank you for your advice, i will personally check it and will comment soonest for update. I am very thankful seeing your video on youtube. Keep up the good work.
@Mr.Nizamul Hoq I looked up the valve you mentioned on the Bosch Rexroth site and unfortunately I don't have access to any equipment with that type of valve. I would like to get my hands on one to disassemble though, so I'll keep an eye out. I don't imagine these valves require any maintenance but rather are expected to be replaced when they fail. That said, sometimes a valve can get stuck when debris is caught inside the valve as was the case in my video.
how to fix that my hydraulic manual valve will moving itself if i connect back the solenoid valave. if i removed the solenoid it will not moving itself. how to fix?. thanks
@@nothandsomebuthandy there is electric. but the manual lever of actuator will moving itself if the solenoid is connected. and hydraulic banging sound because of this lever handle moving itself with out touching.
Hello thanks for the video. I don't know really much about tractors or electronics but I have a tractor with a third function valve and switch. I bought a new grapple for the tractor and have it mounted and hydraulics hooked up but the grapple will not work when I push the third function buttons. When I turn the key switch to on and push the third function buttons there is no sound at the valve. The valve on my tractor looks sort of like the one in your video cylindrical but it does not have two wire blocks on each side. It has one wire block where a red wire is coming from the front of the tractor and is spliced with a wire nut. The other wire coming out of the wire nut is hard wired into the valve. There is a plug-in clip that has a blue and yellow wire coming out of the valve running to the third function switch. I got a multimeter and tried to check the power with the key turned on and I get 10.8 volts to the red wire from the front of the tractor. I stuck the red lead into where the wire clip harness goes and touched the black lead to the frame and I get no reading. Does that mean the valve is bad or is there a wiring problem between the valve and the third function button?
Is the purpose of this valve to open when the key is turned and stay open? The valve in my video is two directional which is why it has two coils. It sounds like yours just works in one direction? If the block with the wires has a screw to remove it like in my video you can pull that off and measure the resistance between the tabs on the coil to see that they measure low ohms, almost 0. Next I would measure the voltage going to the key switch, coming out of it and at the end of the wire to see if you're losing voltage somewhere. Lastly I would check the 2nd wire on the block to see if it has a good ground connection.
To measure the voltage set your multimeter to volts dc and hold the black lead on a good body ground location and use the red probe to test. To check the ground set to ohms (very low range) and hold one to good ground and the second to the wire.
@@nothandsomebuthandy The purpose of the solenoid valve is to use a grapple on a tractor. The front end loader joystick has a rocker switch, that when pressed, is supposed to open and close the grapple.
Ok so I did a little quick reading and I think I understand how that valve works now. When not engaged your loader controls work normally but when the button is pressed the valve diverts the hydraulic flow allowing the same joystick to run the grapple. So it makes sense that there is only one coil, and a spring would push the valve back when released. I have seen rocker switches used for this purpose on equipment at work but really you only need a simple push button switch. If there is a rocker switch the function would only work when it is pressed in one direction unless two of the poles on the switch are connected. Either way the testing information in my previous post still applies.
The coils just slide off the end once you remove the plastic retaining nut. So you could pull the old coil off and put the new one on. Just be sure you use the proper coil for the supply voltage on your machine.
@@nothandsomebuthandy there is a cetop 3 filter module that can fit under the valve with longer bolts to keep crap out of the spool ,but they restrict the max flow slightly .
Yeah it don't seem to be complicated. The issue is my backhoe has pending waist and a cylinder that lock the waist when in digging position. And it's stuck in exavator mode.
SO WE HAVE SIMILAR PART EXCEPT ITS LC GUESS ITS FROM ITALY BUT WERE TRYNA FIND part thats closer to arizona , one of the screws had broken off so we can get a screw in on one side so when we tighten the 3 we have oil still squirts out how can I prevent this
These need pretty even pressure for the O-rings to seal. I think your best bet would be to remove the valve and drill out the old screw and retap one size larger, since these screws are too small to remove with an extractor.
@@nothandsomebuthandy it’s odd because it wasn’t dripping before until I had to fix something then I noticed there wasn’t even a screw in on one corner so it was holding just fine just don’t really know how or what was keeping it from leaking prior
Is there a shim plate between the valve and the block? Are all the O-rings in place and in good condition? Have you tried tightening the two screws next to the broken one before the one opposite to it? (this may help reduce a teeter-totter effect when the opposite screw is tightened)
@@nothandsomebuthandy honestly this my first time messing with the machine so the valve has another thick block which has these 2 big Allen screws on the side in between it and behind that is 4 ORings then those to part connect to our machine which is hydraulic lift to lift metal drums , I’m LEARNING AS I GO
Quite possibly, I think it's a pretty common valve used on all kinds of equipment. This particular one is off a Peddinghaus BDL-760 cnc beam drill line.
My thinking is someone dropped the safety seal of their bottle of the Hydraulic oil when topping up the system. Could be wrong but I've been in that position before. AUSSIE JEFF MOORE
A few things I would look into is to ensure the valve is free of debris and not sticking. Make sure you're using the correct coil for the voltage and current AC or DC, and that you don't have excessive voltage or current on that line, and the connections are tight. And lastly check the class of coil you're using to be sure it can handle the temperature and cycles your equipment needs.
Not very relevant outside a very specific use, certainly not something one comes across outside a specific line of work. What did that directional hydronic valve even come off of?
I bought a 50 foot boom lift that has these type of hydraulic valves for all functions ,it drives forward but not reverse, you showed how simple it is to take apart. Thanks
Good luck with it!
Control valves can be tricky! Great work!
@@LifcoHydraulics I'm still learning!
Dude, you got the what might be the best handle on RUclips.
Haha thank you! 😅
My dad would be so proud that I am watching this and learning. Usually I just get him or my brother to work on my car if anything needs work 🤣
Haha yeah us old guys like to watch anything being taken apart and put back together 🤣
Thanks for getting back to me, I took it apart and carefully tried to put the shaft back in, I was gentle and I had a hard time putting it back in like almost 5 min. I think it is compromised, maybe have to get a new one, it's only the middle part that I would need, any recommendations?
@@stephendomnanovits7252 unfortunately I don't know if the individual parts are available for purchase but you could see if there is a hydraulic shop in your area, they may know more. Bring the valve with you if possible.
Hey welcome back , been a while. Hope all is well and you had a good holiday. This is cool, it's different seeing you cleaning a hydraulic valve and testing the coils. Here's to a great 2021!
Actually doing really well. Was busy with work the past few months so less time for RUclips but getting my shit together now 😅 As for this valve I had to clean it for work so figured I'd film it at the same time. I like to do a bit of everything on this channel even if it may be tougher to keep subscribers that don't share all the same interests. 🤷♂️
Thanks for the practical demonstration 👍👍
This was actually pretty interesting, not gonna lie
I've always been fascinated with how machines work so when possible I like to take them apart and see first hand. 🙂
Thanks for making this !
@@arcadiaoutlaw most of my videos are a result of me having to repair something so I share what I learn to help the next guy.
@@nothandsomebuthandy I did the 3rd function on a John Deere after watching video, not sure why valve was stuck but I disassembled worked the valve free reassembled and worked like a charm. This particular valve was different side to side so I assume if you put together backwards it probably would not work correctly.
It's surprising how much stuff can be fixed by a simple cleaning, lubricating and reassembly
I understand how you take it apart, I trouble that I am having, when I remove the 4 bolts, hydraulic fluid keep coming out, I'm afraid I will lose too much fluid as I investigate the solenoid valve, Can you make video on how to remove without making a huge mess.
@@stephendomnanovits7252 it depends on the equipment and at what point your valve is positioned. If there is a large amount of fluid in lines above the valve with no shutoff it will leak. My valve did leak until the lines were empty. I had a bucket to catch the oil.
The center piece is called the spool it gets pulled back and forth by the solenoids
I would like to know whether can you look at the hyd pressure switches on how they work and they could be faulty?
I sure would like to look into one but I'm not sure I have any on the equipment I have aside from the oil pressure switches.
Thank you for taking the time to disassemble, inspect and repair the faulty directional valve in the video, sir. That's really the only way that folks are going to actually understand how these valves work. We have a backhoe here that has an intermittent reverse issue. CAT calls the hydraulic valve that controls their "FWD-REV shuttle shift" operation the "Shuttle Control Valve Group." My question is whether or not there may be a way to buy parts for the directional valve to affect our own repairs? I'd also like to know which tools are normally employed to remove a valve assembly like the one in the video? Our valve also has four deep holes, but it's mounted in such a way that one cannot see down into the holes. Please keep up the great work.
Every one I have removed so far were held on with hex socket bolts (removed with Allen keys). To speed things up I bought long Allen keys and cut the short end off and use them in a cordless drill.
As far as purchasing parts I'm not sure, maybe a local hydraulic shop could help you there. What I have done is compiled a few new and used valves so I can just pop in a spare when needed and clean up the faulty one when I have time. If you can find the valve manufacturer and model some of the websites have detailed documentation on their products that is handy when sourcing spare parts.
@@nothandsomebuthandy Great tool variation, sir. As I can't get my head over the valve assembly, it's pretty much impossible to see down into those holes. If you wouldn't mind, would you give me an idea of what the typical size is for the allen bolts used to hold one of these valves down? Thank you very much.
I found this on google, not sure if it's your exact model but it's the same size Hex key I use: 260-8590: CAT SHUTTLE VALVE ASSEMBLY, Attributes:
• 3/16 female Hex head
• 7/16-20 UNF male thread mount
@@nothandsomebuthandy It turned out that the "hex socket" bolts holding the valve assembly in place required a 4 mm allen wrench to break them loose. This seems pretty simple, but it wasn't. The two bolts closet to the rear of the machine could be broken loose with a regular 4 mm "L-shaped" allen wrench. The two bolts closest to the front of the machine, on the other hand, required me to "modify" the allen wrench. In other words, I had to shorten the long end of the allen wrench with an angle grinder to make the tool work. For anyone else with this problem, the wrench was shortened with a metal cutoff wheel mounted to our angle grinder. By the way. do you think it might be possible to get parts for our directional control valve? Although CAT sells the valve assembly -- at a premium -- I do know that this assembly was made by in the USA by a company called Vickers.
4:23
the center piece im trying to take it off but it resist .. is there a special way or its resisting because of plastic dust like you found inside ??
Have you removed the coils and springs from each side?
Hi dear, thanks for the very informative video on how to clean the magnetic valve. May i ask if what the possible issue of my wing van? because when i push the switch button up and down on the left side it goes normally but when i do that the other wing at the right goes up when i push the up button and even the down button the right wing will not go down but it goes up. When i tried the switch of the right wing same happened no down movement and same happened when i do that to the left switch up and down button the left wing react.
Are you able to measure power at the valve connectors with a multimeter?
@@nothandsomebuthandy not yet, but i will try it tomorrow. So power supply will be the possible cause for that? Or a clogging shaft? Thank you for your reply.
I feel that if one direction is working that it is an electrical problem, I would start there. If power good, look at physical valve.
@@nothandsomebuthandy thank you for your advice, i will personally check it and will comment soonest for update. I am very thankful seeing your video on youtube. Keep up the good work.
@user-kg5lk8gy8l good luck
can you please upload any maintenance video o Bosch Rexroth 4WRPEH6C3B12L-3X/V/24F1
@Mr.Nizamul Hoq I looked up the valve you mentioned on the Bosch Rexroth site and unfortunately I don't have access to any equipment with that type of valve. I would like to get my hands on one to disassemble though, so I'll keep an eye out. I don't imagine these valves require any maintenance but rather are expected to be replaced when they fail. That said, sometimes a valve can get stuck when debris is caught inside the valve as was the case in my video.
Well explained,sir
I love that flashlight!
So handy! $10 at Canadian Tire boxing week sale 👍😅
Thank you
Good luck sr from srilanka
Thank you
how to fix that my hydraulic manual valve will moving itself if i connect back the solenoid valave. if i removed the solenoid it will not moving itself. how to fix?. thanks
You're saying the manual valve works but electric does not?
@@nothandsomebuthandy there is electric. but the manual lever of actuator will moving itself if the solenoid is connected. and hydraulic banging sound because of this lever handle moving itself with out touching.
@eleonarcanque6355 I wonder if there is a broken spring that should be keeping the manual level in place? Have you disassembled the valve?
@@nothandsomebuthandy not yet. because hydraulic is always use. maybe after we got to pier we will check. thanks
Good idea. When repairing hydraulics ensure the equipment is deenergized and supported and any work is done by a competent person.
Hello thanks for the video. I don't know really much about tractors or electronics but I have a tractor with a third function valve and switch. I bought a new grapple for the tractor and have it mounted and hydraulics hooked up but the grapple will not work when I push the third function buttons. When I turn the key switch to on and push the third function buttons there is no sound at the valve. The valve on my tractor looks sort of like the one in your video cylindrical but it does not have two wire blocks on each side. It has one wire block where a red wire is coming from the front of the tractor and is spliced with a wire nut. The other wire coming out of the wire nut is hard wired into the valve. There is a plug-in clip that has a blue and yellow wire coming out of the valve running to the third function switch. I got a multimeter and tried to check the power with the key turned on and I get 10.8 volts to the red wire from the front of the tractor. I stuck the red lead into where the wire clip harness goes and touched the black lead to the frame and I get no reading. Does that mean the valve is bad or is there a wiring problem between the valve and the third function button?
Is the purpose of this valve to open when the key is turned and stay open? The valve in my video is two directional which is why it has two coils. It sounds like yours just works in one direction?
If the block with the wires has a screw to remove it like in my video you can pull that off and measure the resistance between the tabs on the coil to see that they measure low ohms, almost 0. Next I would measure the voltage going to the key switch, coming out of it and at the end of the wire to see if you're losing voltage somewhere. Lastly I would check the 2nd wire on the block to see if it has a good ground connection.
To measure the voltage set your multimeter to volts dc and hold the black lead on a good body ground location and use the red probe to test. To check the ground set to ohms (very low range) and hold one to good ground and the second to the wire.
If those all test good then maybe the valve is stuck and could use a cleaning.
@@nothandsomebuthandy The purpose of the solenoid valve is to use a grapple on a tractor. The front end loader joystick has a rocker switch, that when pressed, is supposed to open and close the grapple.
Ok so I did a little quick reading and I think I understand how that valve works now. When not engaged your loader controls work normally but when the button is pressed the valve diverts the hydraulic flow allowing the same joystick to run the grapple. So it makes sense that there is only one coil, and a spring would push the valve back when released. I have seen rocker switches used for this purpose on equipment at work but really you only need a simple push button switch. If there is a rocker switch the function would only work when it is pressed in one direction unless two of the poles on the switch are connected. Either way the testing information in my previous post still applies.
the last one isbthe right
I require to repair a valve DG3V3 2n S
How do you replace coil from AC to DC?thank you
The coils just slide off the end once you remove the plastic retaining nut. So you could pull the old coil off and put the new one on. Just be sure you use the proper coil for the supply voltage on your machine.
Orange plastic is usually a back up ring for an oring or piston seal .
I've found some in multiple valves, just waiting for one of the cylinders to malfunction so I know where it came from.
@@nothandsomebuthandy there is a cetop 3 filter module that can fit under the valve with longer bolts to keep crap out of the spool ,but they restrict the max flow slightly .
yeah thanks man ! my backhoe loader has these kind of valves in it so thanks a lot gonna tear down one tomorrow :D
Good luck!
Yeah it don't seem to be complicated. The issue is my backhoe has pending waist and a cylinder that lock the waist when in digging position. And it's stuck in exavator mode.
Well I hope you find the issue and that this video helps. If it has two coils you can swap them to see of one might be bad.
@@nothandsomebuthandy Hey one coil is not working so for the moment that cylinder is disconected and i can continue digging :D
Glad to hear you found the problem
SO WE HAVE SIMILAR PART EXCEPT ITS LC GUESS ITS FROM ITALY BUT WERE TRYNA FIND part thats closer to arizona , one of the screws had broken off so we can get a screw in on one side so when we tighten the 3 we have oil still squirts out how can I prevent this
These need pretty even pressure for the O-rings to seal. I think your best bet would be to remove the valve and drill out the old screw and retap one size larger, since these screws are too small to remove with an extractor.
You can retap in any size or thread you like which will make it easier to find a replacement screw.
@@nothandsomebuthandy it’s odd because it wasn’t dripping before until I had to fix something then I noticed there wasn’t even a screw in on one corner so it was holding just fine just don’t really know how or what was keeping it from leaking prior
Is there a shim plate between the valve and the block? Are all the O-rings in place and in good condition? Have you tried tightening the two screws next to the broken one before the one opposite to it? (this may help reduce a teeter-totter effect when the opposite screw is tightened)
@@nothandsomebuthandy honestly this my first time messing with the machine so the valve has another thick block which has these 2 big Allen screws on the side in between it and behind that is 4 ORings then those to part connect to our machine which is hydraulic lift to lift metal drums , I’m LEARNING AS I GO
thanks for the video! i loved it!
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
thanks sir
How is this value hold on together I'm trying to remove one but can't see where it's bolted up
4 small allen head screws hold the valve to the body.
You happen to know what size
They just look round
The ones on my machine are 5/32" (4mm) I have an allen key that I cut the short leg off and use in a drill to speed up removal and installation.
How deep are they screwed in I can feel them brake loose
WELL EXPLANATION T Q SIR!
Same time automatically open how to make correct
Is it open when the power connector is removed?
How the control valve open close
This model uses an electric solenoid.
@@nothandsomebuthandy ☺️👍
Looks like the auto steer valve on a case ih sprayer.
Quite possibly, I think it's a pretty common valve used on all kinds of equipment. This particular one is off a Peddinghaus BDL-760 cnc beam drill line.
Not Handsome but Handy good to know!
can you repair it?
If cleaning is not sufficient you can easily replace any of the 8 parts
I like so mucho help me
Center piece is called the spool
Thanks for the info!
@@nothandsomebuthandy you’re welcome!
Ya. We also call it a "shuttle" at my work
The coil only
Spider gears can be orange
Hmm that's interesting. I don't think this machine has any of those unless they're in the pump?
My thinking is someone dropped the safety seal of their bottle of the Hydraulic oil when topping up the system. Could be wrong but I've been in that position before. AUSSIE JEFF MOORE
It's very likely
@@nothandsomebuthandy be safe and warm as you shift into your spring. While we in down under deal with the cold.
Thank you, the snow is now gone and green is sprouting
Why valve coil was burn in 1 hour please give some solutions
A few things I would look into is to ensure the valve is free of debris and not sticking. Make sure you're using the correct coil for the voltage and current AC or DC, and that you don't have excessive voltage or current on that line, and the connections are tight. And lastly check the class of coil you're using to be sure it can handle the temperature and cycles your equipment needs.
@@nothandsomebuthandy yuken company coil 230 voltage..
It is ok to check the voltage but what could be the reason why the coil gets hot and burns?
Have you changed the coil and it burned a second time?
@@nothandsomebuthandy we change the coil 5 time sir..every time burn
Not very relevant outside a very specific use, certainly not something one comes across outside a specific line of work. What did that directional hydronic valve even come off of?
This is off a Peddinghaus BDL860 beam line, but this style valve is on tons of industrial and mobile construction equipment
I make these
需要液压产品可以随时联系我
好的谢谢
Very nice and helpfull video. Thank you
Thank you