"By RPM" was new to me so your video was excellent to understand it. I debated using the "16k/By RPM" setup my 5" 4S build since that is currently what's being recommended for the supafly tune. But then, I came across a comment by Ryan Harrell that was made only a week ago in one of the FB groups regarding the "By RPM" setting for 5" freestyle quads. Here's what he said: *"For 5" setups, it looks like 48khz fixed is timing is still honestly the best bet even with 32.9. We've seen some periodic weird artifacts with ByRPM."* So I'm personally going to just stick to 24/24 or 48/48.
16kHz has some ugly downsides. 24 kHz to 48 kHz is the way to go. Variable PWM is no issue at all, if D3B8 smokes ESCs with variable PWM being enabled something else is utterly wrong.
I've noticed some 6S ESC's are using 30V rated mosfets. That's cutting it very close, silly really and the ESC has a absolutely bare minimum electrolytic capacitor provided. It wouldn't surprise me if what's happening is with the more effective regen braking you're pushing that voltage up to over whatever the mosfets maximum voltage. Mosfets often fail short circuit which might be what you're seeing. Anyway, that's my theory atm. Mitigations would be to pick quality parts with correctly rated components (ie, 25v 6S .. ok pick 50V rated components and a massive TVS diode that can soak up a few KW and guarantees clamping to 45V max), or say pick a 6S ESC and run it at 4S, or add a buttload of electrolytic caps but even then 30v max for a 25v rated system is too close imo. You can get some seriously nasty ripple when running motors hard. I'm really surprised at how little protection is sometimes provided and how close vendors cut parameters. Not what I'm used to seeing.
Never seen anyone use auto on motor timing... Ive always used 20 deg on my 5inch freestyle quads... Interested to try it out and see if i can notice anything
Dude! I always seem to start having desync issues and eventually either smoked motors or burnt esc when I mess with any variable PWM. I just don't think it has enough benifit to warrant destroyed electronics at this point. I hope they fix it in later releases because I want to be a believer!
I want to find single BL Heli ESC. Which can setup change motor direction ( normal gimbal is middle motor stop, when i push gimbal up motor run CW direction, when i pull gimbal down motor run CCW direction) Which esc can do it. Please help me.
Minimum and maximum throttle don't make a difference when using Dshot. When using 48kHz PWM frequency, remember to enable thrust linearization in Betaflight. Generally speaking: higher motor timing = slightly more torque and less prone to desync but less efficiency and more heat
@@JevinW i fly 2 newer iflights 45A 55A and one T-motor 55Ultra mini with by RPM at the top. i had no problems at all, even when it was still testcode. i use only t-motor 1204, 2004 and F90 with dual blades only. maybe you use a too heavy prop.
@@JevinW thanks for sharing you experience. What if you set your esc from 24khz low and 48khz high? Does it also shift the pwm frequency between 24~48 by rpm? I love high pitch props and think high pwm is no good for that.
Your setup/tuning videos are the best. Your tuning video saved my life and I love your style of walking through things and showing everything
"By RPM" was new to me so your video was excellent to understand it. I debated using the "16k/By RPM" setup my 5" 4S build since that is currently what's being recommended for the supafly tune. But then, I came across a comment by Ryan Harrell that was made only a week ago in one of the FB groups regarding the "By RPM" setting for 5" freestyle quads. Here's what he said: *"For 5" setups, it looks like 48khz fixed is timing is still honestly the best bet even with 32.9. We've seen some periodic weird artifacts with ByRPM."* So I'm personally going to just stick to 24/24 or 48/48.
16kHz has some ugly downsides. 24 kHz to 48 kHz is the way to go. Variable PWM is no issue at all, if D3B8 smokes ESCs with variable PWM being enabled something else is utterly wrong.
I've always ran "BY RPM" on my T-Motor F55 and never had an issue, fly's smooth as butter. And I can say for sure I don't baby it either!
This is exactly the explanation I needed. THANK YOUUU!!!!1111
I think I learned something today! :D
Thanks!
I've noticed some 6S ESC's are using 30V rated mosfets. That's cutting it very close, silly really and the ESC has a absolutely bare minimum electrolytic capacitor provided. It wouldn't surprise me if what's happening is with the more effective regen braking you're pushing that voltage up to over whatever the mosfets maximum voltage. Mosfets often fail short circuit which might be what you're seeing. Anyway, that's my theory atm. Mitigations would be to pick quality parts with correctly rated components (ie, 25v 6S .. ok pick 50V rated components and a massive TVS diode that can soak up a few KW and guarantees clamping to 45V max), or say pick a 6S ESC and run it at 4S, or add a buttload of electrolytic caps but even then 30v max for a 25v rated system is too close imo. You can get some seriously nasty ripple when running motors hard. I'm really surprised at how little protection is sometimes provided and how close vendors cut parameters. Not what I'm used to seeing.
Never seen anyone use auto on motor timing... Ive always used 20 deg on my 5inch freestyle quads... Interested to try it out and see if i can notice anything
Dude! I always seem to start having desync issues and eventually either smoked motors or burnt esc when I mess with any variable PWM. I just don't think it has enough benifit to warrant destroyed electronics at this point. I hope they fix it in later releases because I want to be a believer!
Same. Fuck that smoked two escs because of it. Thankfully amazon dosnt really look at their returned products lol
I want to find single BL Heli ESC. Which can setup change motor direction ( normal gimbal is middle motor stop, when i push gimbal up motor run CW direction, when i pull gimbal down motor run CCW direction)
Which esc can do it. Please help me.
how reverse individual ESC's on say a 4 in 1 ESC unit? I don't see tabs for individual esc settings.
Minimum and maximum throttle don't make a difference when using Dshot.
When using 48kHz PWM frequency, remember to enable thrust linearization in Betaflight.
Generally speaking: higher motor timing = slightly more torque and less prone to desync but less efficiency and more heat
Have never been able to get both dynamic idle and thrust linear to work well together. Honestly, I've never seen thrust linear do anything positive
previously I have been using 48kHz PWM min and max to try and eliminate DJI O3 jelo. would you think its worth trying thrust linearization?
Could u tell me the best setting for prop 13" and motor 400kv?
I tried your settings seem to work good
When you ESCs died with by rpm feature, were the ESC's always paired with the same FC? Or different quads?
Burned 2x speedybee f7 v3 stack because of this "feature"
Does this work for largre low kv motors as well?
I mean I love the tutorial, but that cow though...
😂 appreciate it man
What ESCs you burned with By RPM option?
1 Tmotor 30x30, 1 kakute 30x30 and 2 kakute 20x20’s, 1 iflight sucex, and a diatone 65a… 😬
@@JevinW i fly 2 newer iflights 45A 55A and one T-motor 55Ultra mini with by RPM at the top. i had no problems at all, even when it was still testcode. i use only t-motor 1204, 2004 and F90 with dual blades only. maybe you use a too heavy prop.
@@JevinW thanks for sharing you experience. What if you set your esc from 24khz low and 48khz high? Does it also shift the pwm frequency between 24~48 by rpm?
I love high pitch props and think high pwm is no good for that.
@@chrisbee5481 Just set 24 and 24 that's the safest
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