I've seen so many woodworking teachers on YT, but honestly you are one of the very best. Concise, really great tips and info and with a light touch in your delivery. Subscribed after the first video, and don't regret a single viewing. Keep going, you're great!
As a beginner, I tend to shy away from longer YT videos. More fool me, some things can't be expained well in ten minutes. Thank you for your posts, your clarity and humour resonate with me and I'm learning so much. Cheers.
Been turning things for several years. Let me just say, I learned more lessons/techniques in this 27 minute video than I have in all those years. Thank you VERY much, well done! juvat
Super cool tip to use the smoothing plane. I had never seen that technique before and it's genius! I bet that saves a bunch of time trying to fine tune the shape before sanding. Love your videos Sir!
It's a great technique; I use it in also every spindle turning I do. Works best at slow speeds with the frog set back as far as possible to open the mouth of the plane.
Excellent ! You had me at SHOP SMITH !!! Gotta say I've never used my sanding disc as you do but it makes perfect sense !! I'm going to make a few rolling pins and bowls for my neighbor. She LOVES to cook and bake...OLD SCHOOL .... and she makes some DELICIOUS food !! Thank You for very well laid out instructions. I ALWAYS consider myself a beginner because it keeps me cautious and have an open mind to learn new things !! Great video !! Thanks again !!
I've had a lathe sitting in my shop for about 4 years and have never really used it. I have been toying with selling it but after seeing this video I will be trying my had at a rolling pin. Perhaps then my wife won't complain so much about the space it takes up
First time a watched a video from you. And yes....I loved it. For different reasons 1...the way you explain things 2...the way you talk 3...your voice is so smooth 4...you are a very likeable person People like you make RUclips worth watching.
I've been turning for a few years but still learned a lot! I have never seen someone use a plane to smooth on a running lathe...that was really interesting. Guess I will have to try that. Good video...thanks.
Most welcome. When you use a plane on a lathe, open up the mouth as wide as it will go and take a very shallow cut. Hold the plane at a steep angle to the lathe's axis of rotation -- at least 45 degrees. Basically, you're using the plane to shear. For extra control, you can rest the sole of the plane on the tool rest. Smaller planes work better - I use a Stanley No. 3 bench plane, a No. 60-12 low-angle block plane, and a tiny Kunz palm plane. The smaller planes will let you cut convex curves as well as flats and tapers.
I am subscribing mainly because I like how you show respect for 95.75% of the world population by mentioning measurements in the metric system. Also because I like your videos, but I really felt considered when you mention metric measurements, so on behalf of the rest of the world: Thank you!
Made a few slimline pen, now trying a French style rolling pen. Your video is excellent, calm voice. That alone makes a difference for me, 90 %. You should try voice over work for documentary
Absolutely outstanding - as a newcomer to this wonderful hobby I thoroughly enjoyed your demonstration. You provided so much advice not just on this project but woodturning in general. I have bookmarked this as I will be watching it several times to reinforce your guidance. Thanks Nick :)
An excellent video, a must-view for beginners Nick gives lots of information and very clear instructions. The finished product is very attractive also. Thank you!
Thank you thank you thank you!!! I knew it!! I KNEW that Somehow there was a way to use a hand plane on a lathe piece. I can't put into words just how much I enjoy watching these videos. Im knew to the wood working world and I've been taking in a ton of info and there are some workers out there that are worried about their Pro ego and sub-par results. I also appreciate you going theough how and why you ise the certain chisels and their individual uses. Please keep putting out this Boss content!! Thank you so much for your attention to detail for us lower level novice splinter eaters;-)
A bit of extra info you may find useful: I have found that a No. 3 or 4 bench plane, a low angle block plane, and a shoulder plane all work well on a lathe for certain shearing tasks. The trick is the take a very shallow cut, open up the mouth of the plane as far as it will go, and set the lathe at a low speed (under 750 rpm). Other tools that seldom used on the lathe and can be are files, rasps, and floats.
I love your videos and have collected and rescued offcuts for years, guess what all the cooks in my family are getting for Christmas this year and I think a matching cutting board I to have a ShopSmith with all the attachments including the lathe duplicator so think I may blow the dust off it for this project Titebond 3 glue yes and my son gave me a large block of bees wax so going to mix that up with white mineral oil to your recipe thank again Regards Bob in York UK
Great video. I purchased a copy of your instructions and templates. They really helped me get started. Love your border collie. I’ve got one too that looks almost identical to yours. Give him a scratch behind his ears for me. Two thumbs up!
Hey Robert, you own it to yourself to search RUclips for two videos titled "Wood turning a log on a Shopsmith Part 1" and "Wood turning a log on a Shopsmith Part 2". In part 2 he also uses a plane while turning. More importantly, you'll be amazed at the scale of his spindle. Scott
AS I told another viewer, it the same as shearing but easier. You simply adjust the depth of cut to take off a paper-thin shaving and open up the throat to prevent clogging. Hold the plane so the iron is at a skew to the axis of rotation, and wade in. Instead of riding the bevel, you ride the sole. Touch the toe of the sole to the turning and slowly advance the plane until it begins cutting. I've found that small bench planes (No. 3 or No.4), low-angle block planes, and rebate planes work best. The bench planes are especially good at truing up a straight or tapered cylinder.
Great teaching! Specially suited for beginers. But, as an italian pasta maker myself, I should say that the spherical handles are unconfortable: they must be cilindrical or slightly conical towards the main body, and long enough to hold hands propperly! Anyhow, this is a minoŕ detail. Best regards Thankyou for teaching us!
Coincidence or fait??? As I am just getting started in turning rolling pins and while scrolling thru YT I find this video, I've watched and passed up on a ton of videos by now and for some reason I stopped and watched yours (glad that I did), I probably learned more from this video than I have from all the other's combined, very informative and for that I Thank You and i now am a new subscriber to your channel,
I have found from my teaching experience that is exactly the place to start -- you have to learn all the essentials, and you get something beautiful and practical out of it in the end.
Great info and very well presented. As I was thinking of question you were already answering them. Nice to see you have a Border Collie in your shop too :)
Actually, I have two border collies in my shop -- Liberty, a traditional black-and-white, and Bella, a "red" border collie. Thanks for your kind words.
Thank you for the wood care advice. I purchased recently a new rolling pin and the wood was not treated with any type of coat. So, I will have to coat it 🙂
Nick, loving this follow up how-to video! I also own a shopsmith and I'm wondering how you are turning at 500 RPM. I thought the minimum RPM was 700 without a speed reducer?
Bella. She has a questionable lineage. When we first got her, we were told she was a border collie, but our Australian viewers had us thinking she might be a Kelpie. Our current opinion is that she's a McNab Sheperd (www.mcnabshepherdregistry.com/dog/ ). Whatever she is, she's a delight. And my shadow. She sticks so close that I have to send her to her cage whenever I'm running a power tool.
Did you recover the set screw that fell out of the 12" sanding disc? I almost shouted aloud when I saw it tumble 😏. Nice demonstration and explanation of basic techniques, thanks.
We really only did it in that order to show the tip of using the plane while keeping the focus on using chisels. Currently we're making long dowels for handlebars and we use the plane last.
I find the Shopsmith much more steady and solid than all but the most expensive lathes. And the infinitely adjustable speed control is a game changer -- you can make speed changes on the fly, and this inevitably produces better results. For example, I like to shear at low speeds (I feel I'm more in control) but scrape at high speeds (which leaves a soother surface). On a Shopsmith, I can switch speeds whenever I switch techniques.
This looks like a small family our size rolling pin.... It would be good to make the length a little bigger than the pie plate. I like a longer one to allow for my large oblong pie plate. Birdy
Great video, I definitely plan on making one of these. But, how do I properly make the angle cut on the table saw so that it is a 3”x3” square? It feels like that wouldn’t be as simple as it seems in the video. Thanks a ton, your channel is awesome.
It's exactly that simple. Just cut a tapering jig from a scrap of plywood to hold your wood at the correct angle as you rip it. If you've never made a tapering jig before, we show the layout for the jig you need on page of the the project plan. workshopcompanionstore.com/products/scrapwood-rolling-pin
@@WorkshopCompanion I guess I meant to say, how do I properly set the fence and jig up so that it is a 3” square? Do I set the fence to 3” and THEN put the jig in? I feel like that would render it >3” because of the width of the jig. I could be wrong though. Thanks for replying by the way!
@@ashtinator1 You only need the jig for one cut. If you haven't used a tapering jig before, I explain step by step how to set up the jig and cut the blank on page 2 of the project plan.
Nice video. Coulda just used the vide to complete the project, but the $2 price tag on the plans with diagrams for the jigs is too reasonable to pass up. Thank you!
Certainly. You might also try mixing a little walnut oil and beeswax together in a double boiler, then apply the mixture hot to the wood. As it gets cool enough to touch, rub off the excess and buff with a lint-free cloth. Thereafter, apply the oil/wax mix like paste wax several times a year.
Awesome video. I am new to wood turning and would like to get in it more. Does anyone have some suggestions on the best starter kits to buy and from where? I am gonna try a turn a rolling pin for a gift. I have a cedar tree that is roughly 8-10 inches in diameter. Would you recommend cutting it down into a square or turning as is? I’ll peal all the bark but do I need to worry about places branches grew ? Anyone with suggestions on any of this it would be great to hear.
Before you cut down that cedar, you might to watch this: ruclips.net/video/bfmCV7qKtGk/видео.html . It's a primer for doing your own sawyering. As for a "starter kit," look into buying a used Shopsmith. Table saw, drill press, sander, and lathe in one package. You can pick up an old one for $250--$500 if you look around. You can add other tools if woodworking is to your liking; sell it for what you have in it if it's not.
I have noticed on my ShopSmith that the tool rest has some play in the connection to the carriage. Do you experience that as well? Any tips on removing the play, or is it best to just accept it and work around it. I have the Universal tool rest, so that is always an option...but there are times when it gets in the way, so using the stock setup can be quick and easy.
Don't have that problem -- and I have 2-1/2 Shopsmiths. Sounds like something is loose, improperly adjusted, or packed with wood chips so it's not locking down properly. The wedge lock nearest you should bear against the tool rest post when the carriage crank is tightened, completely eliminating any play. Might be time to do a little maintenance.
How often are you having to "touch up" the edges on your lathe tools with this type of project? I have tried turning only once, but found my tools dulled super quickly. Thanks for all of the helpful information!
I sharpen my chisels two or three times a year. At the rate at which I do turning project,s that's anywhere for 4 to 8 projects per sharpening. To keep them sharp between uses, I store them in a chisel roll. That keeps the cutting edges from banging into other tools. Sometimes tools grow dull not from the way you use them, but from the way they're stored. Chisels may also dull quickly if made from the wrong kind of steel or a steel that has been improperly tempered. I once bought a set of chisels from a reputable seller only to discover they were so soft I couldn't put an edge on them. I had to re-temper every single one of them.
Thanks Nick. You have shared a lot of interesting details. I loved your wax recipe. Is there any chance you could do a video on the large Shopsmith dust collector? I have one but I am not sure if I am using it properly. I mainly use it for collecting dust from the lathe, but it doesn't seem to do it very well. thanks diana
Diane, the older Shopsmith 3300 dust collector pulls between 300 and 400 cfm. This was pretty good when it first came out, but it's not much to brag about these days. There are plenty of dust collectors out there that pull 600 cfm or better, including the new Shopsmith 6000, which I haven't tested. As far as dust collecting on the lathe, if you figure out how to do it efficiently, please let me know. There are several scoop attachments that you can buy to use with you dust collector, but the ones I've tried are inefficient and often get in the way. One of the things you have going for you when turning is that if you're doing it correctly, you shouldn't be making much dust -- just chips. These fall to the floor rather than hang in the air, where they can be easily swept up. When you sand on the lathe, that makes dust of course, but I find a good air filtration system will keep the air relatively clean. I use something almost identical to the Jet 1000CFM, and am relatively happy with it. The nice thing about having an air filtration system, is that you can use it for any operation that generates airborne dust, not just sanding on the lathe. And if you're doing a lot of woodworking or have a small shop, air filtration is important as dust collection -- long-time woodworkers are prone to white-lung disease and emphysema. If you don't yet have air filtration, I'd suggest you get the 42" filter hood for your Shopsmith and run it while you're in the shop. Clean it weekly.
This is "probably" a stupid question, but... Are there no food safety concerns about the glue (or the plywood)? I have wondered about this before, e.g., for making salad bowls. And - as have so many others have said, thank you for your nice videos over the years. Best wishes, Peter
The only thing in plywood that could be toxic is the formaldehyde that is sometimes used in the glue. After sealing the rolling pin with a food-contact-safe finish, very little would escape. Furthermore, the few molecules that did escape would quickly break down into formic acid and carbon monoxide and dissipate. I can't imagine this being a problem -- unless you have a hermetically sealed room filled with thousands of rolling pins...
We tried gluing up several of them to make another turning block, but the result was not visually pleasing. There is a discernible pattern the emerges when the wood layers are all at the same angle. When they are at several different angles, there is no pattern, only visual clutter. It's the lathe turning equivalent of a teenage boy's bedroom.
I might add one wood turning rule not mentioned: RIDE THE BEVEL. Riding the bevel will help ensure a better cutting finish and minimize sanding. And it makes turning safer.
As I understand it, "riding the bevel" is a nuanced term that is mostly used in association with bowl turning. Every turner will give you a different definition, but for me It describes that situation when the craftsman has the cutting edge, bevel, tool angle, depth of cut, and cutting pressure all in balance, and the chips just roll off the chisel. Because you have to monitor all of these things while making constant adjustments, it is difficult even for experienced turners to achieve and sustain for long periods of time. For this reason and the lack of an agreed-upon definition, I rarely use the term for instruction. But thank you for bringing it up -- it's something all turners aspire to even if they all disagree what it is and how to achieve it.
I'm going to try your wax recipe. I already use a mixture of beeswax mineral oil and carnauba that is quite hard. I have to melt it to apply it. What is the purpose of the paraffin?
Generally, the lower the melting temperature of the wax mixture, the softer it is. And softer mixtures are easier to apply and buff. Most manufacturers like to keep the melting point under 150 degrees for this reason. Carnauba and microcrystalline waxes, which produce a much deeper and brighter shine, have MPs around 160-180 degrees, making them difficult to apply. The MP of paraffin is usually about 125-135 degrees. So you mix paraffin with the carnauba to keep the melting point at or below 150, and you can still get a pretty good shine. The MP of beeswax, by the way is 145-150 -- a fairly neutral MP in wax world -- and many woodworkers like it for its soft luster. Later update: We produced a video on mixing your own wax, with recipes: ruclips.net/video/6DdNMrRn_jk/видео.html
Jak każdy inny Amerykanin, jestem mieszanką - Anglika, Irlandczyka, Niemca, rodowitego Amerykanina i prawie każdej innej narodowości i etniczności, o jakiej możesz pomyśleć. Może być we mnie trochę polskiego.
For any experienced wood workers in the comments, is it usual to have to get your fingers so close to the table saw blade? I've used all kinds of power tools but I've never used a table saw and frankly they terrify me.
Love your videos. I am wondering with your last name. Do you have German in your family or ancestry? I am originally from Germany and have known a family with the same last name.
@@WorkshopCompanion I was born in Solingen but grew up in Mannheim. Are you first generation or has your family been here for several generations. BTW when your videos start I love to see your dog. I have 4 myself - and your smile is out of this world
@@MystiqueULH Our best information is that the Engler clan originated in Sevelen, but that my two-times great grandfather was born in a small town near Stuttgart and emigrated to America in the 1870s.
Stuttgart is not that far from my home town - maybe an hours drive. Though Stuttgart is in the State of Baden Würtemberg it is also an area in Germany called Schwäbisch Land und they even have their own dialect. Many things in this dialect get an le at the end of the word which also means sometimes and Umlaut is needed. Haus (house) Häusle. The le at the end of an item makes it to be cute, small or even cozy and most of all homey feeling. It doesn't mean that it is small just portrays a feeling of comfort. And some words are completely different like Treppen a (steps) are called Staffle. To give you an example from high German to Dialect. Ich muss die Treppen putzen (I have to wash the stairs) in Schwäbisch dialect your would hear 'I muss de Staffle nunterwasche'. Of course this doesn't do much for you because one actually needs to hear it spoken. Also your way of explaining really speaks to me it is actually in a very German teachers way, precise and to the point. Have you ever had a chance to visit Germany and go to where your forefathers came from. It is a beautiful area and not too far from the Black Forrest. If you haven't you should and you can always contact me for some tips and tricks to know when over there.
@@MystiqueULH I very much appreciate the information. I have no plans to visit at this time, but will keep your kind offer in mind if that should change.
Liked the video. I'm from the metric world so thanks for the conversions however we express the measurement in millimetres not centametres. This is for even for large projects eg 11234 mm we don't mix m, cm and mm. You mentioned 7.6 cm the way we express it 76 mm.The only trade that uses cm is clothes industry. I don't wish to assume your skill set sir but you don't look like a dress maker to me.
Not at all. Ever eat a Hershey's chocolate bar? Nibble on Crayons when you were a kid? Do any canning of jams and jellies? All include some paraffin wax. In days gone by, the word paraffin was used in some circumstances to describe kerosene products, specifically lamp oil. These are toxic, of course. But you can eat paraffin wax like a candy bar -- and people frequently do.
It's no less safe than shearing with a skew chisel. In fact, it's somewhat safer than shearing. And certainly easier. You simply adjust the depth of cut to take off a paper-thin shaving and open up the throat to prevent clogging. Hold the plane so the iron is at a skew to the axis of rotation, and wade in. Instead of riding the bevel, you ride the sole (see what I wrote to J Armstrong). Touch the toe of the sole to the turning and slowly advance the plane until it begins cutting. I've found that small bench planes (No. 3 or No.4), low-angle block planes, and rebate planes work best. The bench planes are especially good at truing up a straight or tapered cylinder. Maybe I should do a video just on this technique.
I've seen so many woodworking teachers on YT, but honestly you are one of the very best. Concise, really great tips and info and with a light touch in your delivery. Subscribed after the first video, and don't regret a single viewing. Keep going, you're great!
Thanks for the kind words.
As a beginner, I tend to shy away from longer YT videos. More fool me, some things can't be expained well in ten minutes. Thank you for your posts, your clarity and humour resonate with me and I'm learning so much. Cheers.
Cheers back. And thank you for your kind words.
I love this guy.....we need teachers like him in the schools.
Thanks for saying.
Dude I'm so glad I found this channel. You are by far the best teacher I've seen. You need your own tv program!!!
Been turning things for several years. Let me just say, I learned more lessons/techniques in this 27 minute video than I have in all those years. Thank you VERY much, well done!
juvat
Most welcome. And thanks for the kind words.
Super cool tip to use the smoothing plane. I had never seen that technique before and it's genius! I bet that saves a bunch of time trying to fine tune the shape before sanding. Love your videos Sir!
It's a great technique; I use it in also every spindle turning I do. Works best at slow speeds with the frog set back as far as possible to open the mouth of the plane.
@@WorkshopCompanion I can see how it would be extremely effective especially taking small bites. Very clever
Yup just learned something new. I ended up buying the plans for this. Looks like this is one of my next projects :D
Another great one, Nick. Nice to see the upgraded "Goldie" Mark V in use too. Scott
Excellent presenation, Nick. You are an amazing teacher, I must say. I wish I could get wood turning lessons from you.
Thanks for you kind words.
This is the Festool of RUclips videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Most welcome.
You sir are a river to your people. Thank you so much.
Most welcome.
Excellent ! You had me at SHOP SMITH !!! Gotta say I've never used my sanding disc as you do but it makes perfect sense !! I'm going to make a few rolling pins and bowls for my neighbor. She LOVES to cook and bake...OLD SCHOOL .... and she makes some DELICIOUS food !! Thank You for very well laid out instructions. I ALWAYS consider myself a beginner because it keeps me cautious and have an open mind to learn new things !! Great video !! Thanks again !!
Most welcome. Save us some cookies.
I've had a lathe sitting in my shop for about 4 years and have never really used it. I have been toying with selling it but after seeing this video I will be trying my had at a rolling pin. Perhaps then my wife won't complain so much about the space it takes up
I appreciate you Nick!
And I appreciate you saying so, Bob.
First time a watched a video from you. And yes....I loved it. For different reasons
1...the way you explain things
2...the way you talk
3...your voice is so smooth
4...you are a very likeable person
People like you make RUclips worth watching.
You sir are the best teacher I have ever seen...... !
Thanks.
I've been turning for a few years but still learned a lot! I have never seen someone use a plane to smooth on a running lathe...that was really interesting. Guess I will have to try that. Good video...thanks.
Most welcome. When you use a plane on a lathe, open up the mouth as wide as it will go and take a very shallow cut. Hold the plane at a steep angle to the lathe's axis of rotation -- at least 45 degrees. Basically, you're using the plane to shear. For extra control, you can rest the sole of the plane on the tool rest. Smaller planes work better - I use a Stanley No. 3 bench plane, a No. 60-12 low-angle block plane, and a tiny Kunz palm plane. The smaller planes will let you cut convex curves as well as flats and tapers.
I am subscribing mainly because I like how you show respect for 95.75% of the world population by mentioning measurements in the metric system. Also because I like your videos, but I really felt considered when you mention metric measurements, so on behalf of the rest of the world: Thank you!
It's like watching Oliver Hardy in a workshop - fascinating!
I love your videos Nick You have inspired me to get into wood working with my lathe and milling machine I inherited from my dad as well as metal.
Welcome to the family, Gary.
What a wealth of information! Fantastic, thank you.
Most welcome.
Far and away the best turning vid I’ve seen to date!
Thank you!
Made a few slimline pen, now trying a French style rolling pen.
Your video is excellent, calm voice. That alone makes a difference for me, 90 %.
You should try voice over work for documentary
Thanks so much for the kind words, and I have done some documentary work. But I thoroughly enjoy teaching woodworking.
Outstanding! I’ve never seen a better tutorial for a beginner like me. Thank you.
Most welcome.
Great video, my first ever lathe project was a rolling pin and this would have been so helpful to learn with
Great to hear!
You the best teacher ever
Thanks for the kind words.
Absolutely outstanding - as a newcomer to this wonderful hobby I thoroughly enjoyed your demonstration. You provided so much advice not just on this project but woodturning in general. I have bookmarked this as I will be watching it several times to reinforce your guidance. Thanks Nick :)
An excellent video, a must-view for beginners Nick gives lots of information and very clear instructions. The finished product is very attractive also. Thank you!
Most welcome.
So much good info Nick! This was very informative for me. It was also good to see Liberty there with you.
She's just coming up on 16 years old! These days she spends most of her time in the shop sleeping, but she still insists on coming every day.
I can learn a lot from you even though I'm almost as old as you and have had my Shopsmith for 25 years
Old dogs. New tricks. Never too late, is it?
Thank you thank you thank you!!! I knew it!! I KNEW that Somehow there was a way to use a hand plane on a lathe piece. I can't put into words just how much I enjoy watching these videos. Im knew to the wood working world and I've been taking in a ton of info and there are some workers out there that are worried about their Pro ego and sub-par results. I also appreciate you going theough how and why you ise the certain chisels and their individual uses. Please keep putting out this Boss content!! Thank you so much for your attention to detail for us lower level novice splinter eaters;-)
A bit of extra info you may find useful: I have found that a No. 3 or 4 bench plane, a low angle block plane, and a shoulder plane all work well on a lathe for certain shearing tasks. The trick is the take a very shallow cut, open up the mouth of the plane as far as it will go, and set the lathe at a low speed (under 750 rpm). Other tools that seldom used on the lathe and can be are files, rasps, and floats.
I love your videos and have collected and rescued offcuts for years, guess what all the cooks in my family are getting for Christmas this year and I think a matching cutting board I to have a ShopSmith with all the attachments including the lathe duplicator so think I may blow the dust off it for this project
Titebond 3 glue yes and my son gave me a large block of bees wax so going to mix that up with white mineral oil to your recipe thank again
Regards
Bob in York UK
Your family is very lucky -- good luck!
I love you video and instruction. Thank you. I love your dog too!
Most welcome, from me and Bella.
That was an excellent tutorial. Thank you so much for sharing.
Great video. I purchased a copy of your instructions and templates. They really helped me get started. Love your border collie. I’ve got one too that looks almost identical to yours. Give him a scratch behind his ears for me.
Two thumbs up!
Will do. And thanks for the kind words.
Excellent presentation...I learned a lot thank you.
The plane technic was a surprise. I never saw that before.
Hey Robert, you own it to yourself to search RUclips for two videos titled "Wood turning a log on a Shopsmith Part 1" and "Wood turning a log on a Shopsmith Part 2". In part 2 he also uses a plane while turning. More importantly, you'll be amazed at the scale of his spindle. Scott
AS I told another viewer, it the same as shearing but easier. You simply adjust the depth of cut to take off a paper-thin shaving and open up the throat to prevent clogging. Hold the plane so the iron is at a skew to the axis of rotation, and wade in. Instead of riding the bevel, you ride the sole. Touch the toe of the sole to the turning and slowly advance the plane until it begins cutting. I've found that small bench planes (No. 3 or No.4), low-angle block planes, and rebate planes work best. The bench planes are especially good at truing up a straight or tapered cylinder.
Amazing
My own favorite finish for rolling pins and cutting boards is 1 part mineral oil to 4 parts beeswax.
Great teaching! Specially suited for beginers.
But, as an italian pasta maker myself, I should say that the spherical handles are unconfortable: they must be cilindrical or slightly conical towards the main body, and long enough to hold hands propperly!
Anyhow, this is a minoŕ detail.
Best regards
Thankyou for teaching us!
Great job! Your projects are very interesting. You always have something to learn! Thank you very much!
Most welcome.
Coincidence or fait???
As I am just getting started in turning rolling pins and while scrolling thru YT I find this video, I've watched and passed up on a ton of videos by now and for some reason I stopped and watched yours (glad that I did), I probably learned more from this video than I have from all the other's combined, very informative and for that I Thank You and i now am a new subscriber to your channel,
Most welcome...and welcome!
Really good lathe basics. I learned alot.
And I love your speaker magnet as a tool rack.
Thanks. Have those on all my Shopsmith tools to hold that ubiquitous 5/32" allen wrench.
That wax mixture is pretty interesting!
See ruclips.net/video/6DdNMrRn_jk/видео.html for the recipe.
Thank you for all the tips. It will help me in my next project.
Love the Goldie! I am using my 10ER as my lathe and have some firewood I want to make into something - so a rolling pin looks like a great start.
I have found from my teaching experience that is exactly the place to start -- you have to learn all the essentials, and you get something beautiful and practical out of it in the end.
Great info and very well presented. As I was thinking of question you were already answering them. Nice to see you have a Border Collie in your shop too :)
Actually, I have two border collies in my shop -- Liberty, a traditional black-and-white, and Bella, a "red" border collie. Thanks for your kind words.
Youre the best
Tell that to Santa...
@@WorkshopCompanion Just told him
Thank you for the wood care advice. I purchased recently a new rolling pin and the wood was not treated with any type of coat. So, I will have to coat it 🙂
awesome video , cool dog~
Nick, loving this follow up how-to video! I also own a shopsmith and I'm wondering how you are turning at 500 RPM. I thought the minimum RPM was 700 without a speed reducer?
I AM here because I saw the frantic video!
that cute and quite dog, makes me laugh ♥
Me too. Libby is a healthy 16-year-old border collie. She has a new companion -- Bella -- also a border collie, who is nowhere near as quiet.
You are such a good teacher!!! So talented!! I like how chill your puppy is in the back...haha...Whats your dogs name?
Bella. She has a questionable lineage. When we first got her, we were told she was a border collie, but our Australian viewers had us thinking she might be a Kelpie. Our current opinion is that she's a McNab Sheperd (www.mcnabshepherdregistry.com/dog/ ). Whatever she is, she's a delight. And my shadow. She sticks so close that I have to send her to her cage whenever I'm running a power tool.
Did you recover the set screw that fell out of the 12" sanding disc? I almost shouted aloud when I saw it tumble 😏. Nice demonstration and explanation of basic techniques, thanks.
I did pick it up later, thanks.
Why did you use the plane to smooth when you are going to reingage with the smoothing chisal?
We really only did it in that order to show the tip of using the plane while keeping the focus on using chisels. Currently we're making long dowels for handlebars and we use the plane last.
Love the video especially the plane...great thinking. Wondering what are other options for oiling it, would linseed oil do?
It would. Actually, most natural oil based finishes are consider food contact safe. I used tung oil.
I also use a shopsmith for all my turning. Is there a big difference between a shopsmith compared to a traditional lathe?
I find the Shopsmith much more steady and solid than all but the most expensive lathes. And the infinitely adjustable speed control is a game changer -- you can make speed changes on the fly, and this inevitably produces better results. For example, I like to shear at low speeds (I feel I'm more in control) but scrape at high speeds (which leaves a soother surface). On a Shopsmith, I can switch speeds whenever I switch techniques.
Been doing some small beginers work in asteel shop very supervised, freehanding the tool instead of having it fixed seems very scary !
What gap should be under a door?
Is that intended to be used as a rolling pin or just a demonstration.?
I'm new to the Chanel, had a question what model of "Shop Smith" is that you are using?
Old "Brownie" Mark V updated with a Power Pro headstock.
Do sleepers need foundations?
This looks like a small family our size rolling pin.... It would be good to make the length a little bigger than the pie plate. I like a longer one to allow for my large oblong pie plate.
Birdy
Great video, I definitely plan on making one of these. But, how do I properly make the angle cut on the table saw so that it is a 3”x3” square? It feels like that wouldn’t be as simple as it seems in the video. Thanks a ton, your channel is awesome.
It's exactly that simple. Just cut a tapering jig from a scrap of plywood to hold your wood at the correct angle as you rip it. If you've never made a tapering jig before, we show the layout for the jig you need on page of the the project plan. workshopcompanionstore.com/products/scrapwood-rolling-pin
@@WorkshopCompanion I guess I meant to say, how do I properly set the fence and jig up so that it is a 3” square? Do I set the fence to 3” and THEN put the jig in? I feel like that would render it >3” because of the width of the jig. I could be wrong though. Thanks for replying by the way!
@@ashtinator1 You only need the jig for one cut. If you haven't used a tapering jig before, I explain step by step how to set up the jig and cut the blank on page 2 of the project plan.
Nice video. Coulda just used the vide to complete the project, but the $2 price tag on the plans with diagrams for the jigs is too reasonable to pass up. Thank you!
You're most welcome.
I have a question. Can I polish the pin firstly with mineral or walnut oil on 60 degrees tempetature and then do your wax/parrafin mixture over it!?
Certainly. You might also try mixing a little walnut oil and beeswax together in a double boiler, then apply the mixture hot to the wood. As it gets cool enough to touch, rub off the excess and buff with a lint-free cloth. Thereafter, apply the oil/wax mix like paste wax several times a year.
@@WorkshopCompanion thank you very much for being so kind and shareing your knowledge with us! ❤️ 🙂
@@natasakaleskovic1690 Most welcome. It's what we do.
@@WorkshopCompanion ❤️
Awesome video. I am new to wood turning and would like to get in it more. Does anyone have some suggestions on the best starter kits to buy and from where? I am gonna try a turn a rolling pin for a gift. I have a cedar tree that is roughly 8-10 inches in diameter. Would you recommend cutting it down into a square or turning as is? I’ll peal all the bark but do I need to worry about places branches grew ? Anyone with suggestions on any of this it would be great to hear.
Before you cut down that cedar, you might to watch this: ruclips.net/video/bfmCV7qKtGk/видео.html . It's a primer for doing your own sawyering. As for a "starter kit," look into buying a used Shopsmith. Table saw, drill press, sander, and lathe in one package. You can pick up an old one for $250--$500 if you look around. You can add other tools if woodworking is to your liking; sell it for what you have in it if it's not.
Hello! Thank you for the science! What is the brand of the lathe? I've never seen one like it....
That's a Shopsmith... 5 in 1 tool. Proud owner of one myself.
@@jtome12 Me too. I love my ShopSmith. The lathe, bandsaw, tablesaw, etc are wonderful.
I have noticed on my ShopSmith that the tool rest has some play in the connection to the carriage. Do you experience that as well? Any tips on removing the play, or is it best to just accept it and work around it. I have the Universal tool rest, so that is always an option...but there are times when it gets in the way, so using the stock setup can be quick and easy.
Don't have that problem -- and I have 2-1/2 Shopsmiths. Sounds like something is loose, improperly adjusted, or packed with wood chips so it's not locking down properly. The wedge lock nearest you should bear against the tool rest post when the carriage crank is tightened, completely eliminating any play. Might be time to do a little maintenance.
How often are you having to "touch up" the edges on your lathe tools with this type of project? I have tried turning only once, but found my tools dulled super quickly. Thanks for all of the helpful information!
I sharpen my chisels two or three times a year. At the rate at which I do turning project,s that's anywhere for 4 to 8 projects per sharpening. To keep them sharp between uses, I store them in a chisel roll. That keeps the cutting edges from banging into other tools. Sometimes tools grow dull not from the way you use them, but from the way they're stored. Chisels may also dull quickly if made from the wrong kind of steel or a steel that has been improperly tempered. I once bought a set of chisels from a reputable seller only to discover they were so soft I couldn't put an edge on them. I had to re-temper every single one of them.
Thanks Nick. You have shared a lot of interesting details. I loved your wax recipe. Is there any chance you could do a video on the large Shopsmith dust collector? I have one but I am not sure if I am using it properly. I mainly use it for collecting dust from the lathe, but it doesn't seem to do it very well. thanks diana
Diane, the older Shopsmith 3300 dust collector pulls between 300 and 400 cfm. This was pretty good when it first came out, but it's not much to brag about these days. There are plenty of dust collectors out there that pull 600 cfm or better, including the new Shopsmith 6000, which I haven't tested. As far as dust collecting on the lathe, if you figure out how to do it efficiently, please let me know. There are several scoop attachments that you can buy to use with you dust collector, but the ones I've tried are inefficient and often get in the way. One of the things you have going for you when turning is that if you're doing it correctly, you shouldn't be making much dust -- just chips. These fall to the floor rather than hang in the air, where they can be easily swept up. When you sand on the lathe, that makes dust of course, but I find a good air filtration system will keep the air relatively clean. I use something almost identical to the Jet 1000CFM, and am relatively happy with it. The nice thing about having an air filtration system, is that you can use it for any operation that generates airborne dust, not just sanding on the lathe. And if you're doing a lot of woodworking or have a small shop, air filtration is important as dust collection -- long-time woodworkers are prone to white-lung disease and emphysema. If you don't yet have air filtration, I'd suggest you get the 42" filter hood for your Shopsmith and run it while you're in the shop. Clean it weekly.
@@WorkshopCompanion thankyou that helps
👍😊
one question about the length - my lathe maximum length is 14 inches, can the plans be adapted to suit that?
It can, but that would make an awfully short rolling pin.
@@WorkshopCompanion Possibly in the U.S. but average rolling pins here in the UK are about 12-14''. My current one is 12'' . Food for thought.
This is "probably" a stupid question, but... Are there no food safety concerns about the glue (or the plywood)? I have wondered about this before, e.g., for making salad bowls. And - as have so many others have said, thank you for your nice videos over the years. Best wishes, Peter
The only thing in plywood that could be toxic is the formaldehyde that is sometimes used in the glue. After sealing the rolling pin with a food-contact-safe finish, very little would escape. Furthermore, the few molecules that did escape would quickly break down into formic acid and carbon monoxide and dissipate. I can't imagine this being a problem -- unless you have a hermetically sealed room filled with thousands of rolling pins...
Nice job. Do you use your tapered cutoffs for anything?
We tried gluing up several of them to make another turning block, but the result was not visually pleasing. There is a discernible pattern the emerges when the wood layers are all at the same angle. When they are at several different angles, there is no pattern, only visual clutter. It's the lathe turning equivalent of a teenage boy's bedroom.
You had me a pie. What about bee's wax?
Is powermatic a good brand for a lathe?
Couldn't say -- have never used one.
Boleh tau ukaranya ga.. Seperti ketebalan berapa. Terimakasih.
Dimensi muncul pada 4:45. Atau anda boleh membeli lukisan kejuruteraan di workshopcompanionstore.com/products/scrapwood-rolling-pin
I might add one wood turning rule not mentioned: RIDE THE BEVEL. Riding the bevel will help ensure a better cutting finish and minimize sanding. And it makes turning safer.
As I understand it, "riding the bevel" is a nuanced term that is mostly used in association with bowl turning. Every turner will give you a different definition, but for me It describes that situation when the craftsman has the cutting edge, bevel, tool angle, depth of cut, and cutting pressure all in balance, and the chips just roll off the chisel. Because you have to monitor all of these things while making constant adjustments, it is difficult even for experienced turners to achieve and sustain for long periods of time. For this reason and the lack of an agreed-upon definition, I rarely use the term for instruction. But thank you for bringing it up -- it's something all turners aspire to even if they all disagree what it is and how to achieve it.
I'm going to try your wax recipe. I already use a mixture of beeswax mineral oil and carnauba that is quite hard. I have to melt it to apply it.
What is the purpose of the paraffin?
Generally, the lower the melting temperature of the wax mixture, the softer it is. And softer mixtures are easier to apply and buff. Most manufacturers like to keep the melting point under 150 degrees for this reason. Carnauba and microcrystalline waxes, which produce a much deeper and brighter shine, have MPs around 160-180 degrees, making them difficult to apply. The MP of paraffin is usually about 125-135 degrees. So you mix paraffin with the carnauba to keep the melting point at or below 150, and you can still get a pretty good shine. The MP of beeswax, by the way is 145-150 -- a fairly neutral MP in wax world -- and many woodworkers like it for its soft luster.
Later update: We produced a video on mixing your own wax, with recipes: ruclips.net/video/6DdNMrRn_jk/видео.html
@@WorkshopCompanion Thank you. I'm going to add paraffin wax to my kit. I'm really enjoying your videos.
Nick, jesteś Polakiem ?
Jak każdy inny Amerykanin, jestem mieszanką - Anglika, Irlandczyka, Niemca, rodowitego Amerykanina i prawie każdej innej narodowości i etniczności, o jakiej możesz pomyśleć. Może być we mnie trochę polskiego.
For any experienced wood workers in the comments, is it usual to have to get your fingers so close to the table saw blade?
I've used all kinds of power tools but I've never used a table saw and frankly they terrify me.
Мне каждый раз страшно за собаку!!! :)
Она пробыла здесь достаточно долго - 16 лет - и знает, как держаться подальше. Но она благодарит вас за беспокойство о ней.
Love your videos. I am wondering with your last name. Do you have German in your family or ancestry? I am originally from Germany and have known a family with the same last name.
Southwestern Germany (Baden-Wuerttemberg area)
@@WorkshopCompanion I was born in Solingen but grew up in Mannheim. Are you first generation or has your family been here for several generations. BTW when your videos start I love to see your dog. I have 4 myself - and your smile is out of this world
@@MystiqueULH Our best information is that the Engler clan originated in Sevelen, but that my two-times great grandfather was born in a small town near Stuttgart and emigrated to America in the 1870s.
Stuttgart is not that far from my home town - maybe an hours drive. Though Stuttgart is in the State of Baden Würtemberg it is also an area in Germany called Schwäbisch Land und they even have their own dialect. Many things in this dialect get an le at the end of the word which also means sometimes and Umlaut is needed. Haus (house) Häusle. The le at the end of an item makes it to be cute, small or even cozy and most of all homey feeling. It doesn't mean that it is small just portrays a feeling of comfort.
And some words are completely different like Treppen a (steps) are called Staffle. To give you an example from high German to Dialect. Ich muss die Treppen putzen (I have to wash the stairs) in Schwäbisch dialect your would hear 'I muss de Staffle nunterwasche'. Of course this doesn't do much for you because one actually needs to hear it spoken.
Also your way of explaining really speaks to me it is actually in a very German teachers way, precise and to the point.
Have you ever had a chance to visit Germany and go to where your forefathers came from. It is a beautiful area and not too far from the Black Forrest. If you haven't you should and you can always contact me for some tips and tricks to know when over there.
@@MystiqueULH I very much appreciate the information. I have no plans to visit at this time, but will keep your kind offer in mind if that should change.
Фанера? А может быть лучше OSB-3 Kronoshpan?
wouldn't the glues and chemicals used in the plywood production be marginally harmful? scientifically yes. practically no?
Liked the video. I'm from the metric world so thanks for the conversions however we express the measurement in millimetres not centametres. This is for even for large projects eg 11234 mm we don't mix m, cm and mm. You mentioned 7.6 cm the way we express it 76 mm.The only trade that uses cm is clothes industry. I don't wish to assume your skill set sir but you don't look like a dress maker to me.
parafin? Seriously? Isn't that toxic?
Not at all. Ever eat a Hershey's chocolate bar? Nibble on Crayons when you were a kid? Do any canning of jams and jellies? All include some paraffin wax. In days gone by, the word paraffin was used in some circumstances to describe kerosene products, specifically lamp oil. These are toxic, of course. But you can eat paraffin wax like a candy bar -- and people frequently do.
@@WorkshopCompanion thank you, I didn't know that.
hand plane on a lathe?
"Don't Try This At Home!"
It's no less safe than shearing with a skew chisel. In fact, it's somewhat safer than shearing. And certainly easier. You simply adjust the depth of cut to take off a paper-thin shaving and open up the throat to prevent clogging. Hold the plane so the iron is at a skew to the axis of rotation, and wade in. Instead of riding the bevel, you ride the sole (see what I wrote to J Armstrong). Touch the toe of the sole to the turning and slowly advance the plane until it begins cutting. I've found that small bench planes (No. 3 or No.4), low-angle block planes, and rebate planes work best. The bench planes are especially good at truing up a straight or tapered cylinder. Maybe I should do a video just on this technique.