Thanks for all your Stanley 45 videos, Mitch. Would not have had the confidence to buy one without them. I hope you are able to complete the collection of cutters & corresponding videos -- that'll be an excellent resource.
deezynar Thanks. This was the last video I had finished before the back went. I feel quite a lot better now, so may get back in the workshop during the week.
WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock I see, well at least your condition is improving. I'm glad about that. I look forward to more of your videos.
Mitch, your a very fast learner! Did a great job! I have picked out a total of 16 of your videos to watch today, remember, Doctors orders. LOL! But will not burden you with comments that you might think you have to reply on. All replys are greatly appreciated by me from you, but I know you have alot on your plate, besides me, All I can say is ALL your videos are interesting and informational and are great to watch! and I learn so much from watching them! Thanks again! & Take care.
Mitch, I only slept in school, If only it had been this interesting maybe I would have been smart enough to have my own channel at the age of 62! Thanks & back to my therapy! Take care.
Just looking at Stanley 45 in an old tool store this morning. Will need to put a away some more beans in the piggy bank to get it. Nice work, the lamb's tongue was a nice touch to chamfered sides.
Roger Pate Thanks Roger. Wide range of prices for 45s, so do your homework to make sure you don't pay over the odds. Something to look forward to though. /Mitch
I don't recall a video on that. It is the same as for a bench plane iron though, using a bevel angle of 30°. For fluting cutters, hone in the one direction and rotate the iron to cover the whole edge.
CodeFoxAus The face profile should be an elipse, so that when it is presented to the wood, at the bed angle of the plane, it eventually cuts a full semi-circle. The bevel is then worked up to the edge.The symmetry is a mute point. For a perfect semi-circular flute, then the symmetry would be critical, as you suggest. However, since a router with a fluting cutter will give you a perfect flute, some would say a slightly non-symetrical flute is the mark of a hand crafted flute! Personally, I wouldn't spend ages trying to attain perfect symetry, but rather aim for what 'looks' symmetrical to the eye.
Nice vid Mitch, highlights the operation I needed my 45 to do in the first place. Curious though, have you made one on sharpening the fluting cutters? I was just going to hit them with a diamond card, but was wondering if you've found a better way.
Cheers Kevin! To be honest I can't remember if I filmed one on that. I have used slip stone and diamond card to do it, and it's easy enough. Hone the whole bevel though, to maintain the profile and angle.
Roger Pate I wish I could advise on price, but I don't know much about the market for them here, let alone in the US. There are many variants, some of which fetch much higher prices due to rarity and/or condition, rather than performance. If you can identify the year you can check prices on auction sites etc. Good place to start is www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm
+Robert Cornelius Hi Robert. The skate sets the relative cutting depth for the blade, so it has to be a one shot deal - thankfully it's dead easy, about as quick as a router for modest runs, and no chance of burning. Thanks for watching.
Mitch, Great video. I have a question that I was wondering if you could help me with. I am trying to use the 3/4" fluting cutter and it seems to be too wide for the depth stop. I was really hoping I could use the depth stop to ensure I get an even depth because the groove will be quite visible. There is a cutout in the depth stop, but it isn't wide enough to clear the 3/4" cutter. Any ideas for a work around? Thanks a lot.
Hi Ray. Yeah, they didn't think of everything when they designed it! However, remove the front depth stop and replace with a plain rod (ease the edge to prevent scratching the work). The small footprint of the rod could sink into the work, so consider bending the rod and grinding a flat foot of perhaps an inch or so, facing the front of the plane. Also, use one of the plane's short rods up front, with the cam foot set to the required depth. Finally, use the slitting cutter's depth stop to the rear. Touchdown on these three points should give you consistent depth flutes every time. Depending on the depth, you could equally just clamp a wooden stop, cut to allow the blade space, to the side of the plane skate. Hope that helps
An oldie but a goodie. A valuable source of info for those who are lucky enough to hook a 45.
Cheers Danny
Thanks for all your Stanley 45 videos, Mitch. Would not have had the confidence to buy one without them. I hope you are able to complete the collection of cutters & corresponding videos -- that'll be an excellent resource.
+speedrrracer My pleasure, glad you liked them. No progress on the extra cutters yet, but I'll add to the series if and when I do get some.
Thank you. Clearly a craftsman and a teacher.
Thanks
Great demo as always Mitch.
GuysWoodshop Thank you Guy
Good lesson. I'm glad you're up and around.
deezynar Thanks. This was the last video I had finished before the back went. I feel quite a lot better now, so may get back in the workshop during the week.
WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock
I see, well at least your condition is improving. I'm glad about that. I look forward to more of your videos.
Beautiful job!,and thanks for the info on the Stanley #45, Take care.
***** Thanks Luther. I hadn't fluted with a #45 until a was sent a pair of hand made cutters by a viewer a week or so before. So I had to learn quick!
Mitch, your a very fast learner! Did a great job! I have picked out a total of 16 of your videos to watch today, remember, Doctors orders. LOL! But will not burden you with comments that you might think you have to reply on. All replys are greatly appreciated by me from you, but I know you have alot on your plate, besides me, All I can say is ALL your videos are interesting and informational and are great to watch! and I learn so much from watching them! Thanks again! & Take care.
***** Thanks Luther. 16 is quite a target, I hope they don't send you to sleep!
Mitch, I only slept in school, If only it had been this interesting maybe I would have been smart enough to have my own channel at the age of 62! Thanks & back to my therapy! Take care.
Just looking at Stanley 45 in an old tool store this morning. Will need to put a away some more beans in the piggy bank to get it. Nice work, the lamb's tongue was a nice touch to chamfered sides.
Roger Pate Thanks Roger. Wide range of prices for 45s, so do your homework to make sure you don't pay over the odds. Something to look forward to though. /Mitch
Can't get enough of your videos! One better than the other. :-)
Many thanks
Very cool! Thanks Mitch.
Hi Robert. Gosh you've been busy watching today! Thanks for all the comments mate.
Good demo! Thanks
Robert Brunston Cheers Robert
Pura vida great demonstration .do you have a video about how sharpening Stanley 45 cut blades? Thanks
I don't recall a video on that. It is the same as for a bench plane iron though, using a bevel angle of 30°. For fluting cutters, hone in the one direction and rotate the iron to cover the whole edge.
@@mitchwoodwork pura vida I appreciate your answer for me it helps me yo sharpening my 45 blades cuts
Good Demo Mitch!
aphansler Thanks
Nice to see you demonstrating on a hard wood.
is it difficult to sharpen the fluting blade? I would assume symmetry of the edge would be critical?
CodeFoxAus The face profile should be an elipse, so that when it is presented to the wood, at the bed angle of the plane, it eventually cuts a full semi-circle. The bevel is then worked up to the edge.The symmetry is a mute point. For a perfect semi-circular flute, then the symmetry would be critical, as you suggest. However, since a router with a fluting cutter will give you a perfect flute, some would say a slightly non-symetrical flute is the mark of a hand crafted flute! Personally, I wouldn't spend ages trying to attain perfect symetry, but rather aim for what 'looks' symmetrical to the eye.
Nice job mate
Ken Haygarth Thanks Ken. Hope you're bathed in as much sunshine as I am this morning.
WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock Yeah It's warm and sunny in Newcastle buddy
Do you know how to use the hollow and round attachments for the 45?
Sadly I haven't got those extras. If I lay my hands on some I'll be sure and post a video.
Nice vid Mitch, highlights the operation I needed my 45 to do in the first place. Curious though, have you made one on sharpening the fluting cutters? I was just going to hit them with a diamond card, but was wondering if you've found a better way.
Cheers Kevin! To be honest I can't remember if I filmed one on that. I have used slip stone and diamond card to do it, and it's easy enough. Hone the whole bevel though, to maintain the profile and angle.
Thanks much, that will be my next project
Great video. Is that a 3/8'' cutter?
Thanks! Golly, such a long time ago I can't be sure, but I think half inch
Ok, thanks!
This one was nearly pristine, in original wood box and all the plane irons, and accessories all there, beautiful piece, $225 (US)
Roger Pate I wish I could advise on price, but I don't know much about the market for them here, let alone in the US. There are many variants, some of which fetch much higher prices due to rarity and/or condition, rather than performance. If you can identify the year you can check prices on auction sites etc. Good place to start is www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm
It might be worth trying the 1/4" plane blade first, then follow up using the larger flute blade. This technique works good on a router table.
+Robert Cornelius Hi Robert. The skate sets the relative cutting depth for the blade, so it has to be a one shot deal - thankfully it's dead easy, about as quick as a router for modest runs, and no chance of burning. Thanks for watching.
Mitch, Great video. I have a question that I was wondering if you could help me with. I am trying to use the 3/4" fluting cutter and it seems to be too wide for the depth stop. I was really hoping I could use the depth stop to ensure I get an even depth because the groove will be quite visible. There is a cutout in the depth stop, but it isn't wide enough to clear the 3/4" cutter. Any ideas for a work around? Thanks a lot.
Hi Ray.
Yeah, they didn't think of everything when they designed it! However, remove the front depth stop and replace with a plain rod (ease the edge to prevent scratching the work). The small footprint of the rod could sink into the work, so consider bending the rod and grinding a flat foot of perhaps an inch or so, facing the front of the plane. Also, use one of the plane's short rods up front, with the cam foot set to the required depth. Finally, use the slitting cutter's depth stop to the rear. Touchdown on these three points should give you consistent depth flutes every time. Depending on the depth, you could equally just clamp a wooden stop, cut to allow the blade space, to the side of the plane skate. Hope that helps
Thanks so much. I will try some of these ideas. I think some combination of them should do the trick.
Parabéns.
sac ibr Obrigado. Carpintaria feliz , Mitch