DIY Seacock Replacement (Detailed Version) | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2018
- In this video we show you in great detail exactly how we replaced all of our 26-year-old through-hull assemblies. (A.K.A. thru-hull fittings) This is a 'Boat Work' video and is intended to be informative, rather than entertaining. SUBSCRIBE! ➜ bit.ly/SBRUclips⛵ Informative Sailing Videos
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Seacocks and their associated plumbing are the number one reason that boats sink. Standard brass fittings installed by some manufacturers, or added by owners, are subject to dezincification and can fail catastrophically. This can sink a boat very quickly...
• The #1 Reason that Boa... The #1 Reason that Boats Sink
Bronze seacocks are not immune to problems as some models have standard brass valve stems, which can suffer from dezincification and then fail, rendering the valve inoperable.
In order to avoid these problems we replaced all our through-hull assemblies with all DZR Brass fittings and this video shows you exactly how we did it. We go into great detail about every step of the job.
We have a shorter version, which will save you time, but skips some of the extra information included in this video, you can watch it here ➜ • DIY Seacock Replacemen...
Here are some interesting reads for those who would like more information on this vitally important subject:
Seacocks PDF ➜ trip.ayy.fi/wordpress/wp-cont...
Brasses & Bronzes as underwater fittings ➜ coxeng.co.uk/metallurgy/brasse...
Random Harvest Marine Accident Investigation Branch Report PDF ➜ assets.publishing.service.gov...
Here is the datasheet for the DZR valves that we installed on our boat ➜ media1.svb-media.de/media/snr...
⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ brings you the sailing shenanigans of Chris (British), Rossella (Italian), and baby Emma (Britalian) as we sail our 1992 Bavaria 350. We make sailing vlogs of our cruising adventures and share any tips and tricks we can along the way. After all, sailors are one big family!
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Fair winds! 👍
Chris, Rossella and Emma
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'Sailing Britaly' is a Helvellyn Ltd brand. Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of Helvellyn Ltd, we cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Helvellyn Ltd assumes no liability for property damage, injury or death incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Helvellyn Ltd recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, open flames, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Helvellyn Ltd, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helvellyn Ltd. Disclosure: any links in this description may be affiliate links. If you decide to buy some items from them, Helvellyn Ltd may receive a small percentage compensation for having suggested the suppliers to you. (This costs you nothing) As an Amazon Associate we receive compensation for qualifying purchases. Helvellyn Ltd only recommends suppliers and products which we believe in, so there is never any conflict of interest.
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#thruhulls #seacocks #diy 
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If you enjoy our videos then consider joining our Patreon Crew! patreon.com/sailingbritaly You might think that $1 per month is nothing, but to us it is everything. If just 10% of our subscribers chose to pledge just $1 per month, it would be an absolute game changer for us and we could make LOTS more content for you! You get exclusive benefits by being a Patron, so sign up to join our wonderful community and help keep these videos coming. Thank you! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
p.s. If you don't want to get involved on Patreon, but you want us to make more videos, you can help us out by sharing this video! Under the video, on the right hand side (Next to the like button... 😉) you will see a button which says SHARE. If you click on that you will be able to share the video, and this is a huge help to us which doesn't cost you a penny. Thank you so much! ❤️
p.p.s. If any of you are craving seeing Emma again, we have a vlog coming on Sunday. Or it's visible on Patreon already with the early video access there. :-)
Thank you Cornelis, we love our 🌟Patrons🌟 and we are glad that you appreciate our desire to help others. We look forward to hearing from you over the coming months regarding any questions about your refit. Very best regards, Chris, Rossella & Emma 🙂
Currently in the yard about to attempt this on my boat. Your video really helped take the mystery out of the process. Well done!
My pleasure, buon lavoro! Chris 👍
I love your films. In the part of the world where my boat is,Holland, everyone is changing over to PVC irrigation valves for seacocks. My boat has them and the stringent surveyor was very satisfied with them. Having worked in horticulture I can attest to the robustness of these valves. They of course never corrode.
I was thinking the same, I worked in aquatics and we used pvc and abs valves and pipework on our fish systems
Very generously detailed instructional video...
One easier method of removing the old goods, when grinding down from the outside of the hull, is to hold the hold the grinder at 80-90⁰ instead of almost even against the hull.
Holding this angle, use a small reduced size cutting disc, slide back and forth over the opening, and use about 3 directions of back and forth creating a smooth "basin" for the grinders disc to move in.
The flange serves as an easy useful barrier against slipping and damaging the gelcoat/GRP.
I'm trying to educate myself quickly, having started sailing at nearly 50 (53 now). I'm pretty decent at the sailing and not decent at all at mechanical, GRP, plumbing and electrical work! I've watched a lot of RUclips material and I must say this is the most clearly presented, finely detailed, piece of work I've seen. Particularly appreciated your explanations of your initial thought process, the decisions you made along the way and so importantly WHY you made those decisions. Boats are all about compromises, weight, cost, reliability, maintainability etc and you thought through them all to get to the right solution for you. Really informative, thank you.
Thank you very much Alan, we made these videos in the hope that they would become a valuable resource for others and it is really lovely to hear that this coming true. We have lots more useful content in the pipeline so subscribe & hit the bell to get notified when we release each new video. Thank you for your feedback! Chris 👍
Thank you very much Alan, we made these videos in the hope that they would become a valuable resource for others and it is really lovely to hear that this coming true. We have lots more useful content in the pipeline so subscribe & hit the bell to get notified when we release each new video. Thank you for your feedback! Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly I'm in same boat as Alan(pun intended)
Not mechanical at all. Your videos help tremendously
Thank you for sharing, always interesting to see how others approach solving problems, your skills and innovative ideas inspire.
The question of sea chests arises, on SY Delos and SV seeker are relying on a single through hole to import sea water. I like this approach/ idea keep it somewhere accessible large bore, with an opening above water level so a soft wood drift can be used to clear blockages through the ball valve. Imagine trying to hammer a bung into a broken through valve where you have no clearance to swing a cat. No criticism on you just short sighted yacht manufacturers not thinking ahead.
I always enjoy your videos a great family with hopefully a fantastic cruising future. Please keep filming, I know it adds time to your endevours but we enjoy your enthusiasm.
HI Paul, thank you for your kind comment. I do like the sea-chest system: I have spent quite a bit of time cleaning the intakes of sea-chests offshore with ROV's (The ROV grabs on with a 5-function hydraulic manipulator, the uses a 7-function manip and a high pressure water jet to blast off the marine growth. Very satisfying...) It would be possible to install a sea-chest-esque arrangement on a smaller boat like ours, but it would be a lot of work and the hose runs to the services would then be potential failure points. It's an interesting concept, but it would probably need to be installed in the design phase to make it worthwhile. Thanks for the encouragement! Cheers, Chris 👍
Sailing Britaly
2nd attempt to reply.
On SY Delos this 'Sea Chest' was manufacturer fitted. A large ball valve as a through fitting installed connected to a vertical manifold connected via several smaller valves to supply sea water to outlets, engineering and domestic services. Like you said simplicity serves best. At sea your family and crew are you're greatest responsibility, keep it simple if you are knocked unconscious other people need to know everything is simple and logical, believe me I've been there. As a youngster I had to bring in a boat with an injured skipper. Chris, keep up the good work your channel is educational for not only the youngsters!
Hi Paul Delos's sea-chest setup sounds ideal, and with it being installed at the time of build all the hose runs etc would have been incorporated into the design. (Delos have themselves a gorgeous boat, and a fantastic crew to boot!) Thanks again for your kind comments, I really appreciate them. Cheers! Chris 👍
I'm two weeks out from becoming a (first time) boat owner and live aboard on a 26ft westerly centaur. I was recently thinking to myself I should start boning up on this sort of thing. Hey presto! I always enjoy the technical side to your videos but this has taken it up a notch. Think you should pat yourself on the back as this "Informative, rather than entertaining" 1hr 15min video didn't drag at all. I'll be referring back to this in the not too distant future. Keep then coming!
Hi Robert, first of all congratulations on your purchase: the Westerly Centaur has a really good reputation and I'm sure you will adore your liveaboard adventure! I really appreciate your feedback as when you're making these things you have no idea how they will be received by people. It's very nice to get feedback like this and it certainly encourages me to make more "Boat Work" videos. Good luck with this next chapter in your life, it will be a very memorable one and when you're old and grey you will be very glad you took the plunge. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Very good. Do carry on.
Thank you Tom. 🙏
I truly enjoy your thoroughness and frugality from California. I too now have boat but ive been watching your videos long before
Thank you and congratulations on your boat purchase. Fair winds! 👍
I thoroughly enjoyed watching this video. It is very informative on an vital issue that is rarely thought about until it is too late. Thank you :)
You are very welcome Jeffrey! We always appreciate your feedback, so thank you for taking the time to comment. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Good job Chris!
Brilliant video, probably the first "instructional" video that I have actually watched, non-stop, start to finish. I am replacing the seacocks on my little yacht - there's only three of them ;-) Keep up the good work, you are a natural. Thanks. TONY
Thanks Tony :-)
Outstanding! Thank you.
My pleasure Kristian. Cheers, Chris 👍
Thamks very much! much appreciated!
Our pleasure Ron. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Top bloke top vids. Well done. Extremely informative.
Thank you very much! Fair winds, Chris 👍
You are awesome!
Comments like this are awesome! Cheers, Chris 👍
Amazingly well explained in all details and filmed!👍👍👍
Diffident a thumbs up to you for taking the time to film and share your knowledge and methods to us all. You are amazing thinking out of the box of how to repair something on your sailboat. Your other videos are extremely helpful as well. Thanks
Great content. Appreciate the time you spent making the video!
Great video👍
Thank you Leif! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Superb. Thanks!
My pleasure Matthew 👍
Massive help- thanks for he thorough demo!
Great Video as usual, I like not only the hows but also the whys of what you are doing. Always good to see another's idea's on DYI projects, that's how we learn new skills! Keep the vid's coming please.
Thank you very much Orville. Fair winds! Chris
Thank you so much for joining our Patreon Crew! I can't wait to tell Rossella 😊😊😊
Thank you. We're a fan of your work and looking forward to your return. All the best. ❤️
Brilliant 👍 well done
Thank you Eddie 👍
Tremendous video. The amount of detail you go into is really helpful. Thank you so much for this!
HI Greg, you are very welcome. Fair winds! 👌 Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Excellent video. I loved having the long version available. Potential secondary career in camera repair. :)
Hi Rod, thank you very much indeed. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Great video and good explanations. Hadn't thought of grinding the hull flanges down but that's the way to do it! Keep up the good work and happy and safe sailing.
Thank you Fran, subscribe for more! 👍 Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Nice job thank you
Thank you! Chris 👍
Very good Info.thanks for sharing.
Thank you for commenting Roger. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Great video, with very good ideas and tips. Happy to have stumbled upon your channel. Cheers
Very useful! Thank you!
👍
Not only useful mate, but oddly entertaining as well.
So I subscribed.
Drew
Thanks for this video. We are replacing two seacocks today on our Bavaria 36 so this is a very useful video.
Super useful! Thank you
🙏👍
Really good video, it was defiantly a long process requiring a lot of thought and very necessary. Essential watching for anybody planning this project. Cheers Warren
Hi Warren, thank you very much for your comment and thank you for being a part of our Patreon Crew! Love, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Great video best detail for DIY. Thanks
HI Vincent, thank you! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Thanks for this extended version. I'm about to embark on the same project.
Good luck with the job Mark, I'm glad you found this useful. Chris 👍
Really appreciate your in-depth video of this job. Also think your rationale regarding choices of what you used valuable to anyone also considering this kind of thing. Glad to hear you have a dry bilge after launch! Never nice to find a skin fitting weeping slightly after a big refit!
Keep up the great videos my friend. Our best to you and the family!
Hi there, thank you very much! Actually the bilge was wet on launch as I had just jet washed the boat and there was a load of water in the bilge at the bow which then ran back to above the keel. Got my heart rate up for a couple of minutes as Britaly was hanging in slings (with the travel lift immersed in the water with us) and I didn't have much time to make a call to go for a release or not. (This was the first time we'd ever seen the boat in the water). That water was from the jet wash. Then when we'd been afloat a few days we had some water accumulate in the engine bilge. That turned out to be a leaky fitting on our water heater. Once that was resolved there was no more water in the bilge and it is a very satisfying thing to stick your finger into the very lowest part of the bilge and have it come out bone dry! 😊 Fair winds, Chris 👍
Excellent video! Clear, concise, no bs drama. There's no substitute for experience! Thank you. 😊
🙏👍
Thanks for this long video. Really great. Although I have done this job some years ago on my little 22 foot boat, it was nice to refresh it all up again. I will be removing one of my seacocks next week and fitting a tru-design composite. There is space enough. Take care
Our pleasure Mike! Tru Design are excellent. Happy boat work! Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly thank you. Hope you begin to make some sailing videos again.
Outstanding video - thanks!
My pleasure Robert. :-)
Very envious can’t wait for my new motor yat to arrive in March. Would love to meet you all if ever you come to DIDIM in Turkey
Excellent video. Thank you
Prego Michele! Chris 👍
Awesome vid, it gave me a ton of information and knowledge of some things I never considered. Thanks
Thank you Terry, we really appreciate your feedback. Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Great video thanks for sharing
My pleasure 🙏
Very good video. I now feel I’m ready to do this job this winter. Thanks, and keep up the good work 😊
Thank you, enjoy the job! Chris 👍
Great video, good tips... well done. I'm doing the same job down in mayflower marina and the choices of suppliers and materials was made way easier with your help. So from one rov guy to another, Many thanks
Good video! Please keep them coming..
🙏👍
Good, thanks for sharing.
👍
Yes, to DZR bronze for tro’ hull fitting.
Awesome video!
Thanks for the video! I love to watch you work with tech. That was an hour gone by quickly.
Thank you very much! I was worried people would find this too long but I'm glad the feedback tells me otherwise. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Ah, Chris, another thing: in general, shorter Videos are of course better. If you feel like cutting, do cut. In this example, you could have cut out the "I planned to fiberglass the through-holes" storyline completly and just deliver the fact that you blind-close them. Also you could have cut the other through-holews and only cover 2-3 in Detail. I mean - less time for you to edit
Hi there, I made the shorter version of this video which cut out all the extra info. It's 23 minutes long and cuts out the things you mentioned. To be honest it is quicker for me to make the longer version. Once I had completed that I had to go through the whole thing again and cut out what I could to make a new video, whilst making sure I left all the pertinent bits in there... Cheers! Chris
Thank you for the video. This has been extremely helpful and informative for me. I'm just about to carry out the same on my leisure 23 so will follow this to the t :)
👍
Another fantastic episode Chris, very informative, I'd better check the seacocks / ballvalves on my old cavalier 32, i actually replaced a couple of 1.5 inch valves on the cockpit drains just a few years ago, i had no clue about the DZ qualities, i have noticed they are looking decidedly green, many thanks. Make the most of your time with little Emma, you don't get that time back. Cheers mate👍👍
Hi there, thank you for the feedback! Great advice regarding Emma. I'm spending crazy hours working on our channel at the moment, as the better it does the less I'll have to go offshore, far away from Emma & Rossella. A lot of the time we have very limited contact [i.e. a few minutes per day with a satellite phone, with a queue of blokes waiting outside to use it]. I'm absolutely conscious that these months are super precious, which is why I'm doing everything I can to stay at home with my two angels,. Fingers crossed for the future! Cheers, Chris 👍👍
Thank you for posting this. EXTREMLY useful! Encouraged me to do similar job which I have a great respect for (underwaterline, leakage etc). I also love the intro where you tell the viewers that there will be no music, bikinis and such😆 just pure information. I know it takes a lot of time effort money and energy just to do serious job in your boat and consider that you are filming that in this way… applause. Keep up the good work!👏👍really appreciated!
🙏👍
I liked this videos so much I watched both the long and short versions. Good information. Thanks for sharing
Flipping heck Ed, I didn't expect anyone to do that straight away! I hoped that some viewers might refer back to the longer video in future when they were about to do the job, but to you at least they can't have been as boring as I feared. :-) I really appreciate your feedback. Cheers! Chris 👍
Sailing Britaly hey if your going thru all the trouble to put it out there i figure its worth watching. You put out good solid information and have a great attitude.
Thank you Ed 👍
Great vid. One question, I notice the greenish layer and I'm wondering if your hull had been epoxied in the past? I have the same and the antifoul seems really hard to sand off where it meets the greenish layer.
Thank you that was very useful. I am about to start replacing the corroded seacocks on our new to us, 1978 C&C 27... Lots of very useful information. One question. what about through hulls for the various sensors? In my case, speed and depth sounders. Would you replace these at the same time? Thanks David
Chris thanks SO much for this pair of vids. Brilliant, very methodical and clear. Yes, I watched them both and I'm very glad, as there were some really useful tips in the full version.
I'm just putting the finishing touches to a components order with ASAP for the 12 through hulls I need to replace on our Beneteau next month. I'd chosen the same Maestrini fittings as you used, so seeing your method was perfect. I'm hoping our engine intake scoops (shaft drive) are as easy to cut away with the grinder.
I've now swapped my Sikaflex order for some CT1, with Multisolv and Loctite 572 too, all based on your experience. Wish me luck!
Hi Duncan, thank you very much for the feedback. It sounds like you are all prepped for a successful job but feel free to get in touch if you need any assistance with the job and I'll be happy to help. Cheers! Chris 👍
As ever very cool to see the solutions you come up with. I for one see no problem with the "seacocks" you installed. In fact, I see your solution as superior to paying more than twice as much and having compromised with some Non-DeZed components.
Thank you very much! We are confident that we will have years of trouble-free service from our seacocks and the fact we didn't have to pay a fortune to achieve this is a very nice bonus. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Chris, great vid. Very informative. I’m going to look at replacing/upgrading my skin-fittings/thru-hulls and seacocks this year. I’m looking at Marelon. It’s not just plastic, it is made with modern composites with carbon fiber and mold injected polymers. Marelon provides strength, light weight and is an internationally approved underwater system which provides years of trouble free, corrosion free and electrolysis free use. I believe it meets and exceeds all Marine U.L., ABYC and ISO standards. Marelon can be a great alternative to Bronze and/or DZR brass. Just an idea.
Hi Chris, thank you! Excellent news that you are looking to replace your skin fittings. I am aware of Marelon valves (Forespar), but I have heard of the handles snapping off (with occasionally a resultant leak from the stem and an expensive haulout to rectify). If I was to fit composite I would go for Trudesign. I have heard of zero failures with these. Of course this is just my opinion based on my own research but please do your own before deciding. Fair winds, Chris 👍
Great, useful, credible video! Pleased I watched the long one as you included lots of useful advice and information. Huge thanks and very pleased you managed to fix your camera! Any chance you can replace a head gasket at some point?
Hi Peter, thank you very much. Yes fixing the camera was a big relief! As for the head gasket, I'm not planning on doing that job but I have bought the gasket just in case... It's not that difficult a job though - I've done one on our last boat and these are such simple engines that they are a joy to work on. Fair winds, Chris (Plus Rossella & Emma) 😊
Really good install. I'll look at Trudesign composite but think will be too big as you found so will like use Maestrini dzr ball valve with CR fittings.
A couple of years later, but thank you so much for making the effort in filming as it was very useful.
You’re welcome. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great job Chris decently needed done. Got a flexible jubilee clip drive through work it is ace. Would defenently spend the money on one as a boat owner it is a must have
Hi Al, we use the flexidrivers offshore, they are very handy indeed. It's on the to-buy list. Cheers! Chris 👍
Duuuuuuude !!
(Top Quality)
Thank you 🙂
Superb video`s
Thank you Geir 👍
Great video. I’m about to go on the same bit of work on my boat. I’m curious why you didn’t use a flanged seacock and backing plate vs using thru hull and inline valve with the NPS / NPT thread risk?
perfect
Some really good information and not a bikini in sight for over an hour😀. You got my sub on the last video and a visit to your Patreon page after this one. It takes a lot of time, passion and hard work to do what you are doing documenting and sharing your experiences and knowledge, particularly with a young family!
Thank you Paul, we look forward to getting to know you over on Patreon! 🌟 It really does take an eternity to make these videos. We love helping people (always have always will) but if it wasn’t for our Patrons we simply could not dedicate the amount of time we do to making these videos. Our channel continues thanks to wonderful people like you so thank you too! Very best regards, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
When dry fitting put some painters tape on the hull. Use a Standly knife to cut around the fitting.
After the fitting has been thightned and ct1 oozed out you can remove the acces with the tape, for even less work tape on the fitting as well. Added benefit is that you wouldn’t loose the spanner through the hole .
Excellent technic !
Good useful video, well done. You could have relocated the sink/shower/drains above the water line as on the later Bavaria's. But would still have been a pain. Think you did the right thing. BTW the toilet inlet should have a big swan neck and the sink drain does not (obviously) you must now shut the "combo" valve of before sailing or your sink will flood the boat when heeled over. On that point. Is the engine intake low enough when heeled? Generally the best place is behind the leg our just before the shaft seal. Just a few thoughts, keep them coming!!! Ant & Cid
Hi Ant & Cid, cheers! Plumbing the sink into the WC inlet eliminated the third seacock, which would be needed even if I re-routed the sink above the static waterline, so the way we did it is simpler and cheaper. The WC inlet hose is looped up high in the final installation (not shown in the vid but it is piggy-backed onto the WC outlet hose) to avoid water entering the boat via the hoses. As for the sink flooding the boat it is exactly the same as it was before I started, but instead of having to close three valves to avoid flooding whilst heeled, we now only have to shut two. Even with the outlet plumbed above the static waterline as you suggested, you are just as susceptible to water entering the boat whilst heeled if you fail to shut the valves... Fair winds, Chris 👍
Hi Chris we were not sure if you realised the sea cock needed to be shut off. We saw a boat take on a lot of water earlier this year while healed over and pushing hard. When back in harbour they could not find the leak till I pointed out the sink was not shut off. They had all the water come through the heads door in to the bilge. The shower pump and bilge pump cleared it before they got in but the floor boards were floating and there was a lot of panic at the time! Fair winds mate Ant.
No worries Ant - keep the advice coming as the one time you don't mention something might be the one time that I make a big mistake! Finding lots of water inside your boat must be an awful experience and I'm sure it's not easy to keep a level head if it happens to you (despite us all thinking that it would be a piece of cake, when things hit the fan it can be surprising how easy it can be to go off on a tangent...). I'm sure your friends learnt their lesson, which is what it's all about. I forgot to answer the question about the secondary cooling water intake... Yes it's down low enough that we'd have to be heeled to a level that Rossella would never ever permit us to get to before we'd be even close to having problems 😂 Even if Rossella wasn't on board we'd probably need about a 25 degree heel before we risked aeration, and if we're heeled over at 25 degrees then there's no need for the engine to be running as we would have ourselves a lovely breeze. Regardless of the above there is always the option of closing off the additional seacock and then we just go back to the way the engine has been cooled since the boat was built. Happy sailing to the two of you, Gibraltar is a place I've always wanted to visit, but despite the RAF presence there and offshore vessels using it as a mobbing point, I've never managed to get there yet. One day... Fair winds! Chris 👍
We are planning to add a cap on an existing 1-1/2'' fitting. We have to remove the existing valve. Do you think that we could weaken the sealant/connection between the skin fitting and the hull by doing this? Would it be better to replace everything?
As a new subscriber ... wow, this was an awesome video for myself as a non saliboat person ... only wishing one day, i can also learn to sail and be part of the adventure. Thanks
Hi Michael, a huge part of being a boat owner (unless you are wealthy and can afford to pay others to do everything) is boat maintenance. We do everything ourselves and this makes owning a boat sooooooo much more affordable. If you dream of having a boat then you are on the right path: keep watching videos, keep building your knowledge, keep feeding your dream. Eventually this dream will become a plan and then before you know it you'll be sailing along in your very own boat! I know because this is what happened for me... Fair winds! Chris 👍
Hi. A really good project, well planned and good supplies. i did the job on my own and did the bits using bronze, hope it stay that way as i sold the boat, trust it stays that way- god willing. Howard.
Thank you Howard, congratulations on doing the job yourself. Best regards, Chris
Thanks for the tips - I removed both toilet seacocks on our Moody in ten minutes, as described.
Glad to hear that Tony. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great tutorial, thanks for sharing!! how is the combined sink and toilet intake working out, two years later?
Hi there, it works well! I love it, Rossella less so (As I suspected, Ro thinks it's 'weird' to have to put the plug in and would prefer a valve.) I'm sure we'll work out a compromise, like we always do... :-) Cheers, Chris
Thanks for a another great video. I was wondering what you thought about nylon/plastic through hulls and what about brass through hulls with plastic balls?
Love it. "Things are going well when there is no blood loss and no swear words". LOL
Total novice here, and appreciate a video even I can understand what and why is being done, thank you.
HI there, that's great to hear and I really appreciate your feedback. Fair winds! Chris 👍
nice job and nice ingsits
Hi Chris, great video, I was debating with my Dad how to get the skin fitting off and your method is great. A quick question the back nuts, where did you source them?
Hi Damian, thank you I’m glad you found this helpful. I got our skin fitting, backing nuts and ball valves from a website called ASAP Supplies. Cheers, Chris 👍
Roger Hector
0 seconds ago
👍 Excellent detailed video. No sailing videos ever show any real detail. Show all the tools used as well. Also do detailed videos on : Repairing deck delamination and fiberglass work, redoing the non skid, detailed engine videos ....changing impellers etc, changing stuffing box seals. Tool usage.....technique etc
Great video thanks for sharing your hard work....Dangar marine fitted posh nylon/plastic seacocks to his engine I would have thought they would last forever. ???
Hi Peter, Trudesign, yes (they were too bulky to fit in the restricted space under our galley) other brands of composite seacocks: do some google searches before you buy, some break and leak. Cheers, Chris
I don't know if you can get a product called CLR in England but here in Oztralia it is the bee's knees for cleaning Calcium Lime and Rust stains off most surfaces.
Cheers Eric
Hi Eric, thank you for the heads up, I'll keep an eye out for CLR, or other Lactic acid based cleaners in the UK. I have used something called rust away which is citric acid based and that worked well on rust stains too. Fair winds! Chris 👍
this is a great video, i'm thinking about buying Josam and if i do she'll be taken out for a good clean up and repaint and the seacocks are definitely one of the things i'll be checking, i did have a look for them when i was on board but only found 1 which did look in good condition and looks like it was changed during its refurb in 2016 but i don't think it hurts to have a proper look while she's out of the water. if i do buy her then expect some "how do i do this" txts! haha :)
Whatever boat you eventually buy you can ask me advice any time. We always look after our Patrons and friends! Cheers, Chris 👍
I thinking of doing the same as you put in new thru hulls with caps or should I use valves with plugs or caps. Since you have done it? Thank you
I'm happy to have the capped skin fttings with no valves as they are a very simple and reliable setup which allow us to reutilise any of the fittings at any time. You can even uncap the fitting and install a valve with the boat in the water (look up "seabung") so this really does leave all options open to you. Cheers, Chris
GREAT VID, just starting to replace all our old seacocks from our boat, we are not feeling safe with the one we have, and ourboat is on the dry jard no so i have to do it...
Thank you Marcel, well done for doing this important job. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Excellent video with all the information someone would need to replace their seacocks. You certainly had a few really ugly seacocks and definitely in need of replacement. For reference the European Community’s Recreational Craft Directive of 1988 introduced an ISO standard for through-hull fittings stating they should be corrosion-resistant for a service life of just five years.
Thankfully because of my small sailboat, composting head, elimination of the head sink and salt water intake for the galley sink I have very few seacocks. As I'd mentioned before I have them on my maintenance schedule to be replaced every three years. The locals in the Philippines take my old seacocks and use them on their boats for years afterward so I am sure I replace them too often. It is however cheap insurance in my opinion.
You sure are a brave man using Rossella's nail polish remover, nail brush, hair dryer and kitchen pots to do your sailboat repairs. I'm sure she must love you very much to put up with your antics. 😋
Hi Jacobus, thank you for your comment. Yes our seacocks were in a terrible state. The ISO standard states “material used for a fitting which, within a service time of five years, does not display any defect that will impair tightness, strength or function”. In my mind, as brass always dezincifies in seawater, it should not be used, because within the five year timeframe it WILL have been subject to dezincification and therefore MUST have lost some of its strength. It appears that boat builders don't agree and prefer to save a couple of hundred euros when they construct expensive new vessels. This PDF shows a photo of hose tail which sheared off a 4-year-old Beneteau 461 www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Seacock%20paul%20stevens%202.pdf I know how angry I would be at the builder if that was my boat. Hopefully the ISO standard will be revised so that brass will no longer be used below the waterline.
Rossella and I would love to visit the Phillipines. The islands there look amazing and, having worked offshore with lots of Filipino guys I think that the locals would be incredibly friendly and happy. My Filipino workmates have always been full of life, laughter and seem ready to break into song at any time of day!...
You are right: Rossella does have the patience of a saint!
Fair winds,
Chris 👍
Changing the standard to 10 years would probably eliminate the use of any type of brass. The new boat industry would probably switchover to plastics of some sort. The rest of us would be stuck with trying to find something that would fit in our boats. After seeing the condition of that four year old hose barb I don't feel so bad about changing them every three years. 😊
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yay a 114:05 video on boat yoga :D seriously though.. good info here.
Boat' definitely keep you fit and flexible. Not sure about the zen element sometimes when you're in the middle of a refit but it's all part of the fun... Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Great video as usual, but surprised you didn't take the opportunity to fit a holding tank for black water at least. Lots of restrictions throughout Europe on pumping overboard.
Hi Raymond, thank you! The chemical toilet is in effect a holding tank. A very simple one that should never give us any problems! Fair winds! Chris 👍
disheveled? i didn't notice any difference :-)) keep up the good work.
😂 Cheers Iain! Chris 👍
Nice Video! Did anyone use Sikaflex 291i on their thru hulls as it was planed first by Chris? Do you think it will work for a permanent seal? Thanks to all of you!
HElllo, great video! About th sink-toilet setup: the sink drain water pipe is connected to the toilet salt water inlet pipe? What is some dirt gets to the pipe with time, and it get stuck in the toilet flashing mechanism? Or am I mistaken?
Hi there, this is a good point, but I believe the sink water will drain straight out of the through-hull fitting (taking any dirt with it) as that is the path of least resistance. If we do ever have such a problem then we can consider adding a u-bend to the sink drain to catch any dirt. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Fantastic video, thanks. At 38:14 you wind the hose tail into the valve and set it with Loctite 572 alone, without nipping up the tail, so that you get the right tail angle. So as I see it, if you don't nip it up tight, the hose tail is only locked by the Loctite. If someone was to pull the hose or lean on the hose tail it might rotate and break the seal. Only the Loctite is keeping the water out - is that not a bit scary? I confess I don't always close all the valves when I leave the boat.
My pleasure! Yes that is correct the Loctite 572 is holding the fittings together and if it was to give way then they would slacken. However, the breakaway torque of the cured adhesive sealant is sufficiently high for this to never be a problem. Here is a section from the technical data sheet:
After 24 hours @ 22 °C
Breakaway Torque, ISO 10964:
M10 steel nuts and bolts N·m 7 (lb.in) (60)
So on an M10 (7/16" ish) steel nut and bolt you would need to apply 7 N·m of force to break the adhesive and loosen the fasteners. Now if you scale this up to the size of fittings I was using this becomes a very considerable torque.
I believe that after 24 hours of cure time it would be very difficult to disassemble these fittings even intentionally with tools, without applying heat first.
I hope this answers your question and I hope the job goes well for you.
Best regards,
Chris
@@SailingBritaly Thanks, yes that sounds good. I thought I'd missed something. I suppose if it bugs me I see they sell backing nuts for both bronze and plastic skin fittings so I can lock the valve at the desired angle. All the best.
Hi Guys :) - I've seen your videos with great interest and really enjoy them - I've bought my self a very old small LM-22 sail boat and more or less needs to do all the important stuff you are doing in order to sail safe - Regarding the seacock exchange - I've seen that you can also get them in "plastic" which will clearly remove the corrosion concerns - why aren't you using them?
Hi Dennis, thank you and congratulations on your purchase! The Trudesign seacocks are excellent and I have never heard of a single failure. (Unlike some of the other brands of composite seacocks out there - do some google searches before you buy...) I wanted to have the same kind of though-hull assemblies throughout the boat and the Trudesign through-hull assembles were too big to fit in the very small space under our galley. As a result I went for DZR throughout. Cheers and fair winds! Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly Thanks for your reply - I will also use the MAESTRINI DZR through hull and sea cocks you have suggested because of space - The boat is from 1979, hence new seacocks will probably outlive the hull :)
Wonderful video but I have a question; I see you used no backing plate and instead utilized a bronze washer. Is this suitable? I'm about to do my seacocks/thruhulls but looking to see if a bronze washer does the same job as the backing plate.
It depends on the hull construction: we have 3/4 of an inch of well laid up GRP in these areas, so backing plates aren't required and the large washers spread the load sufficiently. On a boat with 1/4 inch laminate (they do exist...) then a backing plate would be needed to prevent load on the seacocks deforming or ripping out the through-hull from the laminate. Best regards, Chris
just a quick tip when you put sealant on and anticipate squeeze out if you put masking tape on the surface around the fitting it will save a lot of time with cleanup and get a nice clean edge and as a bonus smearing sealant on the antifoul paint will contaminate the surface and make the next coat less able to bond well
Hi William, CT1 is overpaintable. You also have to spend a long time applying masking tape to get anything resembling a nice clean edge on a round hole... Watch this (cheesy) video to see some of the things that can be done with CT1 ruclips.net/video/a0Lcc0WZAqo/видео.html Cheers, Chris
Very nice job 👍 up can’t wait to see y’all traveling around have a Beautiful day a say hey to the wife a Beautiful baby girl
Thank you, we can't wait for that too. You can't beat a bit of toil to make the eventual sunny days at anchor even more sweet though... 😉 Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Might trial fit and mask off before calking. Then install. Wipe excess, and pull tape masking.