So now what’s the difference between between “splatter” and “spot filters”? I always after chipping apply a gloss clear coat before applying washes for several reasons. Decal silvering is one, washes flow is superior over a glossy coat is another and the ease to take enamel or oil based treatment used as panel washes and filters off or toned down is yet another.
allways make sure to apply a coat of (acrylic) varnish (semi gloss or even pure gloss) before the washes, Filters etc.... some oilcolours leave a small amount of itself at the place you apply them, even when you go over and over again with thinner(you can see this at 9:23 in this video.... note the brown spot under the cuppola!.... this is because the surface without varnish is quite rough.... so the oils can stick to it.
Between the different techniques should you give it a coat of varnish. Like after you paint then varnish, filter then varnish, dot filter then varnish? Thanks
You certainly could. It’s not essential, unless you are trying to use filters or dot filters using thinners on top of an enamel base coat - without a varnish, the thinners will destroy your base enamel paint. If your base coat is acrylic, you don’t need to worry, the thinners in weathering processes won’t affect it.
Hi, is it possible to do an all-over filter and dot filters? I guess you would have to put a clear layer inbetween to avoid mixing it all up again? Also how does it work with, say, a black/grey wash for shadows? Could you put that down after the filters, again with a clear coat inbetween? Kinda lost amidst all the different techniques and really want my Mk IV to look great
PIN WASHING: When doing a pin wash, dont you add a small drop of dishwashing liquid? Like one drop to 100 drops of water? It breaks the surface tension and makes the paint flow down the cracks instantly. Or are you using mineral spirits for your thinner? -- If you slightly wet the whole surface before hand, it will eliminate those tide lines. I had a heck of a time with tide lines until I learned this.
Hello Dave. I enjoy your “how-to” videos! I am wondering if you have tried the water-mixable oils from Windsor? If so, how do they perform? Less chemicals appeal to me! Happy New Year from Colorado!
It does seem to wick away a lot of the oil from them, making them less greasy. i have done it in the past when I've painted figure faces with oils, but I've never really worried about it when weathering. It's probably a wise idea, but not 100% essential.
Dave's Model Workshop without letting the oils soak their oil out it just takes longer to dry ? I have tried using the pin wash technique so many times and it just looks funky and seems to never dry. What brand of thinner do you use?
Polish Mafia15 oh, I just use the cheapest mineral thinners from a hardware store. Nothing special at all. And you’re right, all it does if you don’t wick away the excess oil is increase drying time.
Hello! After applying a filter, is it a good idea to seal it in before applying a dot filter? I get the feeling that you might remove the filter when you're blending the dots.. or is it well and truly set in place by that point?
Hi Dave, Once any of the above are completed and dry is it possible to add acrylic on top if you realise that you have forgotten to do something or will this react with the oils and thinners?
Hi John, I don't see why you couldn't paint acrylic on the top once it it all dry. The acrylic coat would have to be pretty thinly applied otherwise you'll lose all your work on the washes and/or filters, but I don't think it would react badly as long as it is all well dried first. Cheers, Dave
hi Lord Brennan, as long as your tank is painted with acrylics and you are using oils or enamels for your filter, then there is no need to apply a clear coat. Some people claim a gloss coat helps the filter/wash to flow more smoothly, but I've never found it to make a big difference. Does that help? Cheers, Dave
@@DavesModelWorkshop My experience with matt acrylic was that the enamel wash flowed all around the paintwork and didn't stick to the areas where I wanted it to be. Pinwashing was impossible as it just seeped all around the area.
Dave, I know I’m a bit late commenting on this video! My question is if I used an enamel base paint and want to wash my model, can I water down an acrylic paint and use these same techniques?
Hi Stockton, no problems being late on this. Acrylics never work very well as washes or filters, for some reason they just don't seem to flow as smoothly and thinly as oils/enamels - they tend to clomp in blobs, not thinly flow. If it's not going to be too heavy weathering, you could try sealing your enamel base with a water-based clear varnish (gloss or matte) and then weathering with oils/enamels, but do it sparingly and be cautious as you go.
Not sure why people don't recommend using an acrylic gloss coat over the model before working with oils. I feel it's a necessary step for pin washes as it creates a better capillary action for the wash.
Dave, what washer should I use (acryllic or enamel) if I paint the body colors with water based acryllics (Gunze Mr Hobby AQUEOUS HOBBY COLOR)? If the washer is enamel based it will resolve the acryllics (as I know). Or I need a layer of lacquer (but what kind of?) between the body color and the washers? Thanks
Hi Zsolt, if your overall colour is acrylic, then your best wash would be artist's oil paints. They would not affect the acrylic paint. Good luck, Dave
Bruno .Gonzaga I would apply the filter first, otherwise you might lose some of the subtlety of the pin wash if yo7 did it the other way around. Cheers.
Hi Mike, yes, definitely. An overall filter would be applied first, then a pin wash. Last would be the dot filter. I just did them in a random order to make it easier to explain. Cheers, Dave
Nice video mate, all very subtle effects, the hard part of weathering is not putting on too much nor trying to weather too much in one step! Test bed indeed, after botching (that is, not exactly how i wanted them to look) more models then I can count, upon moving up to expensive 1/16 RC tank models (I have $1000 in my Hooben T55 already - not really sure how i got here but here i am) I built a Lindberg T55 model for testing weathering, only! After trying oils, and washes and filters, the only firm conclusion I have reached is a filter of Tamiya buff, heavily thinned and airbrushed, (not brushed) lightly, is like instant weathering. Covers the model in a thin film of "dust and dirt" in one pass, neatly and uniformly.
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So now what’s the difference between between “splatter” and “spot filters”?
I always after chipping apply a gloss clear coat before applying washes for several reasons. Decal silvering is one, washes flow is superior over a glossy coat is another and the ease to take enamel or oil based treatment used as panel washes and filters off or toned down is yet another.
Different names for the same thing, aren’t they?
At last, clear info on washes, pin washes and filters. Great video, well put together.
Thanks Martin. I'm the first to admit it can seem pretty complicated and daunting at first, the terms are all used interchangably by some people!
allways make sure to apply a coat of (acrylic) varnish (semi gloss or even pure gloss) before the washes, Filters etc.... some oilcolours leave a small amount of itself at the place you apply them, even when you go over and over again with thinner(you can see this at 9:23 in this video.... note the brown spot under the cuppola!.... this is because the surface without varnish is quite rough.... so the oils can stick to it.
Between the different techniques should you give it a coat of varnish. Like after you paint then varnish, filter then varnish, dot filter then varnish? Thanks
You certainly could. It’s not essential, unless you are trying to use filters or dot filters using thinners on top of an enamel base coat - without a varnish, the thinners will destroy your base enamel paint. If your base coat is acrylic, you don’t need to worry, the thinners in weathering processes won’t affect it.
Hi, is it possible to do an all-over filter and dot filters? I guess you would have to put a clear layer inbetween to avoid mixing it all up again?
Also how does it work with, say, a black/grey wash for shadows? Could you put that down after the filters, again with a clear coat inbetween? Kinda lost amidst all the different techniques and really want my Mk IV to look great
PIN WASHING: When doing a pin wash, dont you add a small drop of dishwashing liquid? Like one drop to 100 drops of water? It breaks the surface tension and makes the paint flow down the cracks instantly. Or are you using mineral spirits for your thinner? -- If you slightly wet the whole surface before hand, it will eliminate those tide lines. I had a heck of a time with tide lines until I learned this.
Hi Bill, that's solid advice about the wet surface to eliminate tide marks. Thanks!
@@DavesModelWorkshop Glad to help! :-)
Hello Dave. I enjoy your “how-to” videos! I am wondering if you have tried the water-mixable oils from Windsor? If so, how do they perform? Less chemicals appeal to me! Happy New Year from Colorado!
PrincipalDrew's Scale Models happy new year to you in Colorado! I’ve not tried water mixable oils, so can’t offer any advice sorry... :(
Very helpful thanks, also nice to see a fellow Aussie making model videos.
Very interesting tutorial.May i ask if after the acrylic paint do some varnish?? And if yes do you use gloss or satin??
Dorian Formosa no, I don’t bother varnishing after the acrylic.
@@DavesModelWorkshop i will try it
Is it good to let the oil paints stay on some tissue before using them? Panzermeister showed this in his video.
It does seem to wick away a lot of the oil from them, making them less greasy. i have done it in the past when I've painted figure faces with oils, but I've never really worried about it when weathering. It's probably a wise idea, but not 100% essential.
Dave's Model Workshop without letting the oils soak their oil out it just takes longer to dry ? I have tried using the pin wash technique so many times and it just looks funky and seems to never dry. What brand of thinner do you use?
Polish Mafia15 oh, I just use the cheapest mineral thinners from a hardware store. Nothing special at all. And you’re right, all it does if you don’t wick away the excess oil is increase drying time.
Hello! After applying a filter, is it a good idea to seal it in before applying a dot filter? I get the feeling that you might remove the filter when you're blending the dots.. or is it well and truly set in place by that point?
Did you find out ? i would like to know that as well!
Hi Dave, Once any of the above are completed and dry is it possible to add acrylic on top if you realise that you have forgotten to do something or will this react with the oils and thinners?
Hi John, I don't see why you couldn't paint acrylic on the top once it it all dry. The acrylic coat would have to be pretty thinly applied otherwise you'll lose all your work on the washes and/or filters, but I don't think it would react badly as long as it is all well dried first. Cheers, Dave
Very useful video, Dave.
Thanks for taking time to demonstrate and explain the different techniques - you have cleared the mist!
Do you seal the tank first with a clear coat? Before you apply the filter?
hi Lord Brennan, as long as your tank is painted with acrylics and you are using oils or enamels for your filter, then there is no need to apply a clear coat. Some people claim a gloss coat helps the filter/wash to flow more smoothly, but I've never found it to make a big difference. Does that help? Cheers, Dave
Thank you so much!
@@DavesModelWorkshop My experience with matt acrylic was that the enamel wash flowed all around the paintwork and didn't stick to the areas where I wanted it to be. Pinwashing was impossible as it just seeped all around the area.
Dave, I know I’m a bit late commenting on this video! My question is if I used an enamel base paint and want to wash my model, can I water down an acrylic paint and use these same techniques?
Hi Stockton, no problems being late on this. Acrylics never work very well as washes or filters, for some reason they just don't seem to flow as smoothly and thinly as oils/enamels - they tend to clomp in blobs, not thinly flow. If it's not going to be too heavy weathering, you could try sealing your enamel base with a water-based clear varnish (gloss or matte) and then weathering with oils/enamels, but do it sparingly and be cautious as you go.
can you do this with acrylic paints or only oils?
Only oils Dan.
Not sure why people don't recommend using an acrylic gloss coat over the model before working with oils. I feel it's a necessary step for pin washes as it creates a better capillary action for the wash.
I definitely find it protects whatever is underneath, it's a valuable step.
What can you use for a thinner??
Use Tupenoid odorless or white spirit
Dave, what washer should I use (acryllic or enamel) if I paint the body colors with water based acryllics (Gunze Mr Hobby AQUEOUS HOBBY COLOR)? If the washer is enamel based it will resolve the acryllics (as I know). Or I need a layer of lacquer (but what kind of?) between the body color and the washers? Thanks
Hi Zsolt, if your overall colour is acrylic, then your best wash would be artist's oil paints. They would not affect the acrylic paint. Good luck, Dave
Thanks! And what is the solvent of these oil paints?
Mineral turpentine, or general artists' thinners would be fine.
What do you apply first, filter or pin wash?
Bruno .Gonzaga I would apply the filter first, otherwise you might lose some of the subtlety of the pin wash if yo7 did it the other way around. Cheers.
Very helpful, thanks for the explanations.
Glad you found it useful Max! Cheers, Dave
Thanks for your tutorials,straight forward and fun keep it up
Darren. Blakemore - thanks very much mate! :)
Thanks for the video.Shouldnt filters be applied before pin wash?
Hi Mike, yes, definitely. An overall filter would be applied first, then a pin wash. Last would be the dot filter. I just did them in a random order to make it easier to explain. Cheers, Dave
Thanks for the tutorial.
Hi Ron, glad you liked it. Cheers, Dave
Very interesting thanks.
Thanks Brian :) Cheers, Dave
Nice video mate, all very subtle effects, the hard part of weathering is not putting on too much nor trying to weather too much in one step! Test bed indeed, after botching (that is, not exactly how i wanted them to look) more models then I can count, upon moving up to expensive 1/16 RC tank models (I have $1000 in my Hooben T55 already - not really sure how i got here but here i am) I built a Lindberg T55 model for testing weathering, only! After trying oils, and washes and filters, the only firm conclusion I have reached is a filter of Tamiya buff, heavily thinned and airbrushed, (not brushed) lightly, is like instant weathering. Covers the model in a thin film of "dust and dirt" in one pass, neatly and uniformly.
Thank you very much for explaing and showing that
Great Vid !!!
Steve Mahalko thanks very much mate! Cheers, Dave
"Please excuse the German tank in Russian green" *stares at M113 in pink panther and tiger 1 in grey and greens stripes with black boarder
Heh heh!