RC No Prep Diff Changes and Alignment | RC Drag Racing Setup
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I've noticed the past couple times I ran my RC No Prep drag car that I have a little play between the rear axles. This is because the outdrive cups are worn down and the axles are loose inside of them so they need to be replaced. I've been running a locked diff in the car since I built it that I locked with JB Weld, so its not as easy as just replacing the outdrives. I had to buy a brand new diff case, drive cups, and I also picked up a locker from 1UpRacing. This way, I can make changes to the diff like maybe moving to an open diff in the future.
After all of the crashes recently, I figured it was probably time to check the alignment on the car. I wanted to make sure my camber was at 0 degrees for sure, I felt like that could causing a lot of my traction issues. I don't have a setup rig though, so instead of ordering one and having to wait for it to come in, I designed and 3d printed some so I could align it as best as possible. I know a manufactured kit would work better and be more accurate, but this way seemed to work fine and was cheap. The link to the files for the setup wheels is below for anyone who needs some.
Hope you Enjoy the Video!!
Files : www.thingivers...
Hit that Like button if you enjoyed this video!
Subscribe to FullThrottleRC to see more RC videos including running videos, build videos, and RC product reviews.
Follow me on Instagram : / f_t_r_c
If you like what I do and want to support the channel, consider becoming a member of the FullThrottleFamily: / fullthrottlerc
![Run Away - Tzuyu(TWICE) ツウィ 쯔위 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 240906](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KnHNNyAYiu0/mqdefault.jpg)
One thing you can try if you havent is an off road racers trick. When your car sits at ride height, having the axles paralell to the ground gives you more forward grip. Ive seen guys print/make a shim that goes under the gear box to make that happen.
A spacer wouldn't be hard to print, could be something to try. As someone who likes physics, I'd be interested in how that actually works though.
Great video as always. I'm new to the whole RC scene. The drag racing is what I'm most interested in, and your wrenching and testing videos help me out a ton. Thank you
Thanks a bunch! Glad you're enjoying the videos!
One of the best you tubers out there for Rc 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼helped a lot
Thank you so much!
@@FullThrottleRC you welcome
I used pieces of rubber/silicone from a phone holder to lock my diff. I did it this way in case I didn't like how it acted and I could easily remove it. You can use silly putty or really anything that will stop the gears from moving but will be able to be removed. Hope it works well for you. 👍
I originally used silicone earplugs to lock it but I guess the power just flung that around cause it didn't work. That's when I went with jb weld. Now with this locker I can easily remove it whenever I want.
Love a good clean up mate she’s looking sweet carbon is to
Thank you!!
working on my kit as we speak,,,, for the diff/transmission spool or slipper,,,,
Good luck! Have fun with it!
I hope you ordered this diff case ASC91466. also love the work your doing sir keep it up.
Yep that's the new one I ordered!
Very nice 👍😊👍
Thanks!
Good job bro and great vid. Would like to see a Malibou or Vette on there
I have a vette body already. Unfortunately it's pretty scratched up too
@@FullThrottleRC I got 2 Malibu bodies on the way. Looking forward to see what you decide on
Helpful video👍🏻
Thanks! Glad it could help!
Mustang 🤘🏻
Only one right now is the fox body, the rest have been Chevy, might continue that trend
It's funny I think itnwas the last running video or the one before that I noticed the camber in the rear wheels and the wear pattern on them. I was gonna say something but figured you might have set them up that way.
Hahaha nope. I think all of the crashes and having to replace parts messed with the alignment.
🤘y'all have a badass day🤘🍻🤘
Great info. I would be interested in a pair of those caster/camber mounts if your planning to print and sell some. Also the think a shark rc drag body would be sweet on that chassis. Take it easy.
Thanks! I have the link to the files for the setup wheels in the description. I'm not planning on printing them for selling myself currently.
Open diff will make your car more forgiving, and consistent. I run 200-500k. The higher the traction the thicker the fluid. The spots I've seen you run I would use 200k.
I like the idea of the locked diff on the launch but like the idea of forgiving further down track.
How about the CTS. I have 100,000 in my diff. Made it stiff. I like it. As always great video
That's a good option! Thanks!
Hi man great video’s what do you run for toe? I’m from off road racing this all different lol
I try to get the tow as close to zero as possible. A little hard especially in the rear with this chassis but I like to be close to zero. If I can't get zero, only a tiny amount of toe in in the rear.
@@FullThrottleRC awesome thanks I have a DR10 I converted into a 13.5 it does donut’s coming off the line and I have a outlaw bullet chassis with AE buggy that’s a rocket thanks for the info man
The B5 diff case will work not the 6.1, i just did a few updates to my slash drag.
Got a b5 diff case on the way now! 👍
@@FullThrottleRC sweeet
Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe..
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Where can I get the dummy wheels u used for alignment? Thank you
There's a bunch of kits out that you can buy but I designed and 3d printed these
the dodge cuda body or the IROC body
One may be coming soon 🤔🤔
Don't happen to be from NC are ya?
No, I'm not
Would you
Be interested in selling a set for alignment?
Also I bought a drag slash to start with nice truck made some upgrades already. What weight is good for diff?
Honestly you'd probably be better buying a manufactured kit. It would likely come with more and be more accurate. This was just a personal project that I wanted to try to tackle. For diff fluid I'd recommend 500k or higher. I'm running 1mil.
If I was to start new and start no-prep drag racing what would you start with. Traxxas or TA. Is there a website available with like a bill of materials to start. I don't want to buy low end and wish I had something different later on.
The easiest way by far to get into No Prep drag racing is the Associated DR-10. Ready to run, with just a battery you can start making passes. Of course, after you start running you'll want to go faster and thats when you start upgrading.
@@FullThrottleRC I think what I may do is buy this: www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/cars_and_trucks/DR10/Team/
since it is pretty much barebone with no electronics and etc. If I do I will start investigating electronics and other hardware. I will continue looking through your videos to determine what you are running as well.
@@jwreplogle yep! Thats a perfect start! Good Luck!
run a shark body!
I have a new body coming soon.
Cambers fairly easy as you just did a fine job, but Toe in on the other hand is basically a joke, I have the Rpm Toe & Camber Guage & with there Toe Guage it's no different than what you just did by measuring behind & in front of the tire & from that point you have No clue which Tire it is that's Toe'd in or out & or how much to add or take away from said tire lol, it's all guesswork & eyeballing with the guage or a ruler which makes buying a Toe Guage pretty much a waste of money. ... 🤙🏽💯🏁
I think for toe there needs to be an exact center point. Which just a guage probably wouldn't give you. You'd need an entire jig for the car to sit in to have a center to measure off of. I can guess and estimate a center to adjust the toe but really it as guess as you said unless you can find the exact center. I've set it on full size cars with a string before, not as accurate as machines but possible. But in this case, without even have the back tires zeroed out, it's hard to use that method as well.
@@FullThrottleRC ye your exactly right, when I bought the toe guage a few yrs ago I didn't know any better, I thought I was all set. your right tho some sorta jig would be great but then again it's RC not the end of the world so a good set of eyeballs can get ya lined up good enough......... I read about the string line set up for a 1:1 but never ended up doing to my 1:1 Ford Explorer (Nervous) lol..... Thanks Bro, really enjoy your channel & videos 🤙🏽💯
I don’t understand how an open diff would be better. It would make the power distribution to each wheel uneven and it won’t launch well. Makes zero sense
From my understanding, it'll act as a locked diff when launching if you're using a heavy oil like 500k. And then on the top end at high speed it'll allow the car to stay straight.
I ran 500k on my dr10 and wasn’t happy with the way it was launching, I locked the diff with the same 1up racing locker and it was way better IMO, the launches are a lot more consistent, locked is the way to go imo. But people swear by 500k so to each it’s own. Great video though keep it up man, looking forward to more testing vids!
@@perez82i thank you!
cuda body
🤔🤔
Was that a dex210 to start?
I started with a B5M to build this car. I made a build series here on RUclips if you're interested.
@@FullThrottleRC I'm trying to build one out of a old traxxas nitro buggy and fond out I can't use the two speed in it so was thinking about using a dex 210 but was worried about performance parts and availability what you think?
@@thomasmunger9246 I'm not familiar with the dex210 at all
Sorry if I'm bothering you big dog I'm looking at bead lockers for the rear and don't know should use the 1.9 OR 2.0
@@thomasmunger9246 All of the drag tires that are available use a 2.2/3.0 short course style bead. You can also use a 2.2 truck tire like the Proline Prime and use a 2.2 beadlock
What car is it??
SC5M with B5M arms to narrow it. Check out the build series if you're interested!
HI question/ Do you have face Book so i can contact you? I am interested on your car alignment thanks
No, I don't have Facebook, sorry
Hey where did you get your wheels and is there anyway you can show me a better pic of them. you can hit me up on fb messenger my name is
Johnny Owensby
The wheels are proline split six. I have some pics on Instagram if you're interested.