Always use an air filter on your turbocharger. The compressor wheel can spin up to 280k rpm. At that speed, a few grains of sand can cause damage. Exhaust pipe diameter and the types of mufflers (baffled vs. straight-through glass pack) used can make a huge power difference. Engines love cool air, especially coming from a hot turbo. Use an intercooler on your setup. It will decrease the chance of detonation. Use high octane fuel (91-93, E85) for street driven turbo cars. Low octane can cause detonation. Make sure you have adequate fuel delivery (larger CC injectors, hi-flow fuel pump, adjustable FPR). More air from the turbo means you need more fuel to compensate. An engine management system like Megasquirt, AEM EMS, Haltech, etc. to control those larger injectors. An engine management system can control ignition timing, too. The biggest facet to making power, quick turbo response, and keeping the engine safe from detonation.
If I were to install the turbo, set it at low boost (or none) and drive like a granny until I can afford a megasquirt, can I run the engine without blowing it up?
@@astrocent Short answer: Stock ECUs won't work well (or at all) with a set up that wasn't built with forced induction to begin with. You will need it to be tuned either thru a flashed ECU or an aftermarket one.
Hey Eric The Car Guy, I really appreciate your videos. They helped me understand a lot. I was able to pass my ASE G1 test. As a new mechanic I have learned a lot and just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Another thing to consider is turbo size. People think a bigger turbo makes big power (or boost) that maybe true in a sense. But depending upon application. A smaller turbo would be as effective or more useful. Small turbos are better at making power down low to mid range (nearly eliminating turbo lag). A big turbo makes power at mid to upper R.P.M range due to its size(but you suffer more turbo lag). So in the end. Depending upon the type of build (4, 6 or 8 cycl) sizing your turbo can be a big benefit in the enjoyment of when you drive the vehicle
guts drugs idk where you get your info from but we have loads of turbo cars at every meet here in the states. so maybe instead of going around calling people idiots in vain you should take your purse and go sit down
GuTs Drugs what does the number of cylinders have to do with it? You said "americans dont turbo much. Everything is NA" and called dude an idiot.... well youre wrong. Americans put turbos on everything they can get their hands on. We have multiple domestic turbo manufactures to choose from. Hell one of our beiggest domestic car companies, ford, has a turbo option for EVERY vehicle in their lineup including the cheap cheap economy car known as the fiesta... people here turbo everything from hondas to mustangs, camaros and corvettes. You cant go to a car meet without finding multiple turbo cars there... even our granny cars have turbo options from factory ffs
Coming from a guy who's been working on turbo cars for a long time, I received a lot of criticism on the forums and Facebook for using RTV on exhaust parts. It has worked for me, and I'm glad it's working on your engine. Keep the videos coming Eric 👍
Yea, I knew some people would have issue with it, but I would wager they don't have experience using it. Also don't forget to true up the manifolds! Even more important than the gasket you use. Thanks for the comment.
Also should know when building a turbocharged diesel is to make sure to install a shut off valve on the oil injector line of the turbo and a shut off valve on the fuel line before a run away can occur
yep a bad enough oil seal leak in a diesel turbo can cause a runaway situation as the engine just decides to run on the raw oil run to maw rpm and either stay there until it overheats and ceases (killing the engine) or it throws a rod (killing the engine) and oil based runaway situation is a guaranteed way for you diesel to be roadkill
renaults have the valve cover and intake manifold combined and they are plastic on diesels. they constantly fail and people think that the turbos are failing. when the plastic cracks you have boost leaks and also you start spewing oil everywhere including outside and inside the engine.
Hi Eric, nice video. Just know, there are a whole bunch of us, who really like Fairmont videos. And really like your repair videos. And ETCG1. Keep it up!!!
1: do it. 2: for sure do it. 3: nope do it but with a bigger turbo 4: do it x 4 5: ull probably blow alot of cash for a bunch of power but for a short period of time before breaking some or many things, and its all worth it...
about the only tip i dont agree with is where your BOV reference signal is from. the bov as you said releases excess pressure when you slam that throttle shut BUT how it stays closed under boost is a combination of spring pressure and boost pressure via the reference line. the BOV boost pressure reference line is supposed to go AFTER the throttle body so that when you slam the throttle shut the BOV reference line goes to vacuum and the pressure differential between the two forces the BOV open this simple oversight is propbably why you prefer the BOV directly next to your compressor as there is a pressure difference across the inter cooler allowing it to operate somewhat close to correctly because previously when it was after the intercooler the reference line and the release valve would have been seeing the same pressure thus i assume you got the slight cho cho cho sound as boost went back through your compressor until enough of pressure difference was seen between the reference line and the BOV now of course i could be completely wrong about this because yours is a carburetted engine which relies heavily on a pressure difference accross the CARB thus reference source like on your boost gauge would possibly be a few points of a psi lower than before the carb. before people ask how dos the bov stay close when you accelerate instead of letting all you boost out thats what the spring in the BOV is for the spring is a low pressure spring just enough to colapse under vacuum but strong enough to close the BOV as the throttle is opened usually 1-2 psi this small amount of closing pressure is enough to keep it closed while the reference line is being pressurized rembering that it's not the BOV spring keeping it closed but an equilibrium of pressure between the top and bottom of the valve. for me my BOV and boost guage are referenced from the same source i totally agree with your wastegate signal placement and to a lesser extent control method (i'm an EBC kinda guy)
Yeah this guy knows his shit. Vacuum/Boost gauge and BOV should both be read BELOW the throttle plate. When you fix this, i expect you'll notice some major differences when coming off the throttle.
yeah i would hope so i daily drive my modified boosted engine admittedly mine is an injected car with standalone engine management system controlling everything including the boost. just a couple of vid explaining how a bov works ruclips.net/video/fbCMGyCK1E4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/cTMwtvZtpGA/видео.html
The thing that makes his different than most cars is that he is using a blow through carburetor setup so using boost references in the intake manifold after the throttle plates on the carburetor makes things a little bit different. he doesn't want gas blowing into his blow off valve or in his mechanical boost pressure gauge. If anything what he should do is completely step away from a carburetor and a simple ignition retard setup, and set up a port fuel injection/stand-alone computer tuning. the fine-tuning engine games you get from this will be huge as well as driveability, use of different uses of fuel, elevation changes, yada yada basically a fucking huge list of reasons that are extremely beneficial
I have a different method to build a turbo engine, I don't worry as much about airflow if i want more power i just turn the boost up. Also don't spend a fortune building a motor many times a used running engine will do if you just open up the piston ring gap and use arp headstuds and decent mls headgaskets you would be very surprised how much power can be made reliably on stock internals if it is tuned properly especially a big beefy v8 engine. Also use the highest octane fuel you can get and if you have access to e85 that is the fuel you should be using. Bad tuning can melt down an expensive forged engine and good tuning can keep a junk stock engine alive with factory parts.
ETCG rockin' it! I just love your project! You are having fun, but you're also doing everything right and as perfect as mind and money will allow. I know it's not all whipped cream and cherries. I know there's a LOT of thought, frustration, physical fatigue, and mental anguish in a project like this. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK! Thanks for continuing to post these videos!
turbo sizing is important, stickier tires, fuel pump, an AFR gauge is a very useful tool to have, a thicker radiator, being able to brake from more horsepower than what the vehicle was intended for. these are all also important systems in conjunction to what you already listed so maybe you can follow up with a part 2 to this video!
Your blowoff valve should have a line running from the intake manifold (vacuum reference with throttle plate closed). It's not there to prevent overboosting. It's to release pressure when you close the throttle plate. The vacuum from the intake manifold opens the valve.
Make sure you buy quality items. Quality may not always be expensive though. Just read the reviews. Also, all universal kits will need modifications to fit on your engine. Lastly Forged internals are Highly recommended, They are stronger and can withstand the heat and extra pressure that boost or NOS can makes.
you are awre MOST factory internals are forged these days forging merely refered to the mettal being produced under pressure. you can have a rod that looks cast that was made via a cast forge method whereby it was cast under pressure and therfore FORGED. the process of pressurizing the metal straightens the metal molecule chains
kyle hubner all good for a modern engine but something like a small block Chevy or mopar from the 70s-90s as far as I know are cast internals. This is when the person that wants to do these modifications need to do their research
Richard Price I'm honestly not sure. It wouldn't surprise me though since top fuel dragsters use a blown big block hemi and a fox body 302 also has stock internals.
K-Wool insulation would help with the heat on other surrounding components or even under the reflective blankets you have installed. Its used for doing local post weld heat treating of piping after welding. The piping is heated to anywhere from 1100 to 1400 degs. The insulation comes in different thicknesses from I think about a 1/2 inch to about 2 inches. You could even split it to make it even thinner. A little would go along way. You can almost put your hand on top of this 1inch thick insulation when the heat treating is in process at the above said temperatures. Ive been in the heavy-duty welding and manufacturing industry for along time and can tell you this insulation is good stuff and might help with the localized heat problems there around the turbo.
Industrial Ceramic Fiber Blanket insulation is good for 2300 F, is lightweight, low thermal conductivity, low thermal capacity, thermal shock resistant, flexible, non-brittle, durable, asbestos free and reasonably priced. It is similar to the shuttle insulation used by NASA. A 1 inch thick blanket would be more than adequate. I estimate approximately $40 USD to completely insulate the headers, turbo and down pipe. ruclips.net/video/16PG4ptyrXg/видео.html shop.unitherm.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CF6-1-24X60in&gclid=CjwKCAiAlL_UBRBoEiwAXKgW55BxwiTzYPmPUR6OPH4XKRgRT9zjTjeeclhsCsvLKAiTTJpqhB54eRoCA6kQAvD_BwE
Your engine is also a thing of beauty to me. Thanks for the tips, I have been dreaming of putting a turbo on my car, but it's my only one for now, and I still need something to be driveable.
Back in the day, anything I owned with headers had exhaust leaks, and burnt up starters (GM). Was a never ending battle! I discovered Permatex Ultra Copper back in those days at the advice of a speed shop, and have been using it ever since. I would use a gasket, but I'd smear both sides with a layer, not too thick & not too thin. Seemed to work pretty good - they would last 10x longer. I recall also having problems with the header bolts loosening up, contributing to blown gaskets. I got into the habit of checking them whenever I popped the hood to check the oil. Ahh the joys of performance cars! :)
I had the same issue with a car I used to have. Back then i was too young to even think of a table top belt sander,But! When i saw him put the copper permatex on, I had a eurika moment because thats what I did on my car. It was the only thing I could get to work becase it just ate exhaust gaskets one after another.
Hey Eric, great video! There's a comment below about your BOV configuration, it's not correct and you may be losing boost because of it. The copper RTV suggestion is good, I've also had great success with Remflex graphite gaskets (been boosting the 5.0 for 9 years now). A good option if your headers flange isn't true enough to get away with just some thin RTV. Finally, I agree with the engine building suggestions, though it is good to mention the exception - you don't want the best-flowing naturally aspirated cam you can get. Turbos hate overlap, you want a really mild cam (stock is aok) or a turbo-specific one for the best results.
that's what we initially said. comments around his inter-cooler piping setup suggested for him to run from turbo to inter-cooler to throttle-body in the shortest way possible his kit had all the piping go to the passenger side even after going through the inter-cooler looping back around and following HOT components. after i suspect much headache around getting the piping to fit properly (there was alot going on on that side of the engine) he did swap the hat around shorten up the piping and had the bov right next to the throttle (as he said in this video) however his reference signal for the BOV is in the wrong place it is meant to go behind the throttle plate. but don't take my word for it go and look at all the cars factory equipped with BOV's all of those have the bov reference after the throttle body. if everything is working correctly the moment you open the throttle it goes from vacuum to atmospheric pressure ie -16+ inches of mercure to 0 on your gauge. from here you revs start to increase and with it your turbine and compressor speed. at this point if the BOV is working properly it is CLOSED and has spring pressure of maybe 1-2 psi holding it shut and an equilibrium of pressure top and bottom thus the BOV can hold 1-2psi of boost without the reference signal. now we keep going boost is starting to build and pressure goes up we are now seeing 2 psi on the gauge this mean the entire system has atleast 2 psi in it including both top and bottom of the bov so now we have 2 psi ontop of the bov plus the 2 psi of spring pressure meaning it can hold against 4psi of pressure below the valve. see NO BOOST IS EVER LOST provided everything is working properly ruclips.net/video/fbCMGyCK1E4/видео.html note he calls the nipple at the top A VACUUM NIPPLE it's not a boost nipple ruclips.net/video/cTMwtvZtpGA/видео.html and there you go same guy explaining how they work i was alil off about the spring but it does help
I think you have you blow off valve hooked up in correctly. Your signal should come from the underside of the carburetor. This way when you come off of the throttle, and the pressure differential is great between the charge pipe and the intake manifold, your blowoff valve will come open. Also you want it as close to the carburetor as possible. The way you have it plumbed, the blowoff valve will never open.
Thanks Eric! I'm adding a turbo to my 1.6 diesel VW bus, will be wrapping the whole exhaust system before a highway test thanks to this video. 100HP here I come!!
A couple of things. While it is good advice to built the engine to be a high-flowing NA engine, that's not 100% accurate as a high-flow NA camshaft profile won't necessarily work well for a supercharged engine. In many cases the factory camshaft will outperform a really big, NA "rump, rump" racing cam as that high degree of overlap lets a lot of boost blow right out the exhaust. You need a high performance camshaft designed for supercharging, if you're going to take it that far. Also, the main purpose of a blow-off valve (BOV) isn't to control over-boosting per se (that's the main job of the wastegate). The purpose of a BOV is to prevent a pressure spike from damaging the compressor (reversion) in the turbo when the throttle valve is suddenly closed under boost by giving the air another path (either to atmosphere or back to the compressor intake). All in all, a very good video. Thanks for sharing your experiences with the little details of turbocharging sometimes overlooked. Very helpful.
I think it's awesome you built up that Fairmont. Back in the 90s my brother died some basic tune and suspension on a low mileage Fairmont as a commuter. Great riding car ! Your install/build looks great man.
Wow, 189 people have no idea what he is talking about. This is all 100% accurate, especially the part about liquid gasket! There's a reason header manufacturers recommend it also!!! Why would you give this a thumbs down??
Hey Eric, just looking at the space available to work on the engine and it reminded me off a really old video you made where you said how much you dislike modified cars lol
Correction, how much I dislike 'badly' modified cars. There is a difference between someone who bolts on parts hoping for results and someone who knows what they're doing. ;)
Hey Eric, I recommend you start building undertays, at least for the engine. It will keep the undercarriage clean and more importantly, improve aerodynamics. If you eventually make a full tube and cover the entire underbody of the car, you should see significant gains in high-speed stability. Would sure make for some entertaining videos!
As far as camshaft /valvetrain goes , newbies should contact a company like Comp Cams to recommend a proper camshaft , springs , valves , pushrods , lifters , rockers , etc. Turbo cams open the exhaust valve before it hits Bottom Dead Center and it takes a lot of pressure to open the valve against the expanding gas.
I thought opening the exhaust early (before BDC) was standard for a high revving engine? This is part of increasing exhaust value duration. Correct me, if I'm wrong.
Man you're great. I have a small diesel engine but I really enjoy your videos. Everything you've done with the car is well designed and thought of. Well done man
A few things I'd add as an owner of a factory turbo'd car whose wick I turned up from 230/250 @ the wheels to 390/385 @ the wheels with key supporting mods, a turbo upgrade, and ethanol fuel mixing and/or methanol spraying (depending on the tune I run) for additional safety, octane, cooling, and cleaning: 1. Make SURE you have proper heat management. Like you said, this relates not only to coolant and oil, but also running enough ring-end gap clearance to avoid ring butting and popping a ringland. This also relates to proper intercooling, and spraying methanol is especially helpful not only for the added octane, but also for further cylinder cooling and cleaning. 2. Run catch can(s) setups for your blowby. This becomes all the more salient when you really turn up boost, and especially if you have larger ring-end gaps to support said boost. 3. AFR and having enough fueling are ESSENTIAL; everything being done perfectly build-wise cannot avoid a blown engine happening with a quickness if you go lean under high boost. Watch those AFRs, ensure you have enough fuel, and maybe install both overboost and AFR protection that'll trigger if either gets out of the proper range.
Subscribed. Really like the way you explained it, especially the way you speak Really easy to understand and unlike many others who either yell it in your ears, whisper or sidetrack .
I'm sorting that out now. I have over 60 days worth of footage I need to work through. It's a lot. I'm trying to get help with that. Once I do, I plan to start releasing Fairmont videos in addition to the Friday videos. I put this one out to give the people that enjoy the #FairmontProject videos something to watch.
Oh thats the best explanation on turbo setup on youtube so far and what eric said about having the boost low on an na engine setup is 100 percent true but it also applies to force induction engines as well.a few stuff he should include in this build was an oil cooler cause at 150mph the viscosity of the oil will change which is not good for turbo and bearings under high compression and heat.but eric you have done the best and safest build i have seen so far cause in my country guys are mostly concern about boost and not focusing on engine.i usually reduce the oil to the turbo cause the flow to the return line does not flow quick enough causing oil to sip pass the bearing in the turbo.nice set up
Super chargers are old school and there's nothing wrong with old school turbos are a pita when you are dealing in carburettors and mechanical ignition make all the electronic and they can't beat. I will admit a supercharger is a simpler instal with less to instal and behaves much the same way as a n/a engine
I've watched them all and learned that you can have a go but leave the technical stuff to the experts, like you my internal engine parts is being done by the professionals. Its a duratec 3.0 V6 and going twin G25 turbos. Thanks for doing them for us all to watch 👌
Saved this video since I'm tossing around the idea of adding a supercharger to my 460 Mopar stroker once I get to that build... Too many decisions. Lots of great info tho.
Hodge-Podge Garage I’m using turbochargers with my big block mopar the supercharger is old school looks and sounds but I know someone else that has a sbm and he loves his draw though single off a power stroke diesel 34 Plymouth 3 window . If I already had a 6-71 blower hanging out I’d use it but starting from scratch I gave up on the idea because of the advancement in turbocharging and fuel injection and the cost of setting up the bds blower correctly
Richard Price it's been a thought but I keep going back and forth. I think it's going to boil down to how much money I have when I'm ready to order the engine parts. If not enough for a blower, then I'll probably just do the stroker and call it a day. I'm not building a race car so a 460 stroker will probably have plenty of power on its own
I've got faith in you. Shouldn't be too many surprises, and the bugs must not be too big. What's up with the fueling issue? Is it just dropping fuel pressure at full boost?
I'm not a mechanic, don't shoot me :) What comes to mind is the "diminishing returns rule" and climbing costs for every extra 1% of performance added, also the added costs for fixing the bad side effects created in the process. The hardware additions, changes, timing, and smooooth flow is the bulk of your added performance. The bad side effects are heat, lubrication problems, harmonic vibration, more weight of the engine and support systems adding to the loss. It's a bugger aint it LOL :-D
If I'm honest a vehicle like this is a money pit. That's part of the reason I made the series. To warn others of the dangers. But I also wanted to show that you can realize a dream. It may take a lot of time and money, but it can be very satisfying in the end. I went overboard with this car. I don't plan to do that with the next one. You're right though, it's a lot of time, money, and effort, for very little return in the end. That is, unless you're counting the feeling you get from a job well done driving something you built from the ground up.
EricTheCarGuy. Yes it has cost and arm and a leg, but you have reached a point where you are happy, the main side effects are fixed and you don't need to sell your first born lol :-D. Oh im not a mechanic, but learning from the right teacher is fun, thats why i watch you, not buttering you up or anything.
..Theres always handicapping. I just like the car community doing colab's. I can imagine SuperRob, Cleetus, ETCG, KC Paints and if you could talk Mike Finnegan to rally, i'd pay to see that:)
Eric, proven technology from Caterpillar is to make sure those exhaust manifolds bolts stay tight is to use 4 inch studs with 3 inch spacers. The extra length lets the studs stretch much further during torquing and acts like a spring as everything heats up and cools down. Hope that helps
THANNNNNK YOU for stating the truth: you don't necessarily want all the boost, because it's a measure of restriction (backpressure) on the intake side. SO MANY people don't get that. Making your engine more efficient will lower your boost pressure while simultaneously making more power... And that's what you really want. The less boost you run, the less heat you make, the less octane you need to use, and the safer overall the motor is, especially say on a particularly hot day hotter than normal.
Did my whole turbo setup in my LS swapped C10 for less that $750 and couldn’t be happier. Runs and drives great, getting around 18mpg, and fun as hell. 👍🏻👍🏻 Making plans now to do another build aimed more for track duty only. Setting total build budget at $5000 and aiming for low 10s to high 9s. 👍🏻
$750? That's what I'm talking about. I have a Yukon XL that has high miles and starting to run like garbage so I may be rebuilding it. Was thinking about adding a turbo to get a little more oomph for towing my travel trailer. Would you mind telling me what parts you used? Thanks.
Thanks for suffering threw experimentation so i know what to do for my build also copper rtv is going to be my new best friend when building engines now ive had similar issues with gaskets
Great video! I installed a turbo on my 1967 Camaro 3 years ago so I went through all those steps but it is nice to see the detail that you put into it and your own tips about it. Like the exhaust and not using a gasket, I use a gasket and I use the Copper head gasket sealant but I still blow them out after awhile. I will check the level of the header next time and try with out a gasket. Thank you for the great videos you put out!
Followed the Fairmont project for awhile. In 1985 I had a 75 monarch 2dr , 351 Windsor put 2x2.2 ltr dodge turbos on it. Carb 4165 holley was BEFORE the turbos. You mention pain and suffering, floor pan wrinkled and the hood blew off with a lot of fire works. Learning sometimes is a hard process.
Eric. I do have to say, with your top 5 / 6 things to building a turbo charged setup. This setup on your car looks to be quite promising, durable and reliable long term. That is a great setup!
Spot on sir. Maximum Boost by Corky Bell is your bible. I've had to run safety wire on my turbo mounting bolts before. Hard lessons learned after owning a turbo vehicle modified continuously for 10 years lol
You've came long way since I started throwing wrenches at my 99 Taurus when I was 16 watching you lol good days bub it's already been 7 years wow. Envy your success!
I’ve got a little tip to throw in from experience, prime your turbo oil lines and turbo with oil before you start the vehicle, I fried 2 turbos on the same car because of that, I pulled the ignition or fuel fuse and cranked the engine over a couple times till oil squirted out the line, hooked it all up the crank a couple more times to get oil into the turbo,
I remember the video in which you first began wrapping your exhaust with that heat resistant material. You knew what you were going for and doing but seemed like it was a bit painstaking. After seeing this vid, I'll bet you're *really* good at it now! I personally am really looking forward to more Fairmont Project vids. I'm sure it took a LOT of trial and error but it looks like a work of art.
Thank you! Yea, I'm still not finished. Perhaps I never will be, but I love the work so there's that. I'll have more Fairmont videos. I just need to work out some editing. That'll take some time, but I'm hoping it's a better series in the end. Thank you again.
I'm sure someone has said this, but multilayer steel gaskets are by far the best for turbo systems. Also the best head gaskets for a turbo car. And the bov should be connected to the intake manifold after the throttle. It's supposed to open when you shut the throttle to prevent compressor surge and damage to the turbo. It needs the manifold vacuum to open which you won't have before the throttle. At least you won't have nearly as much. But great video!
Eric the one thing I would recommend is using is FireSleeve on your oil supply line to the turbo. It's sold by Aeroquip and you cut it to size. The have a dip for the end to finish it off correctly. Its protects the supply line from heat damage and the possibility of rupture. Those exhaust blankets are a must good find.
6.) If it's an import: -Get Garage - Get lift -Get engine hoist -Get engine stand -Remove motor -Install motor with turbo -If something breaks, rinse, repeat -Install punching bag in said Garage
Nice infos. Here the major pain is oil leakage from oil pan and/or crankshaft seal, probably because too much blow-by pressure. Need some extra holes to vent it to catch-can.
Thats what I've been telling a lot of people before, and they don't think it matters with a turbo engine, but airflow matters, just like I told people all psi isn't the same like 7 psi on a smaller turbo and 7 psi on a huge turbo aren't the same because they will flow differently at that boost level, I rather have really good flowing heads and exhaust, because I can flow way more air at a lower psi because it will be easier for the turbo to flow air into the engine so,when I crank it up I will make even more HP
Already knew all of this stuff since I actually built my own custom turbo engine. But I like your explanations. However, your BOV doesn't prevent over boosting... That's what a Waste Gate does. A BOV only helps prevent "compressor surge" which is air pressure being trapped and backtracking after a throttle plate closes and the air goes back into the turbo outlet. As far as gaskets a MLS gasket with a few layers of spray on copper gasket works well.
A BOV does not prevent overboosting a BOV is meant to remove excess air in the charge pipes/ IC system by taking pressure from the throttle body when the IACV closes, it’s meant to remove all that excess pressure so the excess pressure doesn’t come out the turbo (what causes flutter) it in some cases is bad for the turbo because it’s physically stopping to remove the excess pressure that a blow off valve could remove in the system.
Always use an air filter on your turbocharger. The compressor wheel can spin up to 280k rpm. At that speed, a few grains of sand can cause damage.
Exhaust pipe diameter and the types of mufflers (baffled vs. straight-through glass pack) used can make a huge power difference.
Engines love cool air, especially coming from a hot turbo. Use an intercooler on your setup. It will decrease the chance of detonation.
Use high octane fuel (91-93, E85) for street driven turbo cars. Low octane can cause detonation.
Make sure you have adequate fuel delivery (larger CC injectors, hi-flow fuel pump, adjustable FPR). More air from the turbo means you need more fuel to compensate.
An engine management system like Megasquirt, AEM EMS, Haltech, etc. to control those larger injectors.
An engine management system can control ignition timing, too. The biggest facet to making power, quick turbo response, and keeping the engine safe from detonation.
Due to how a carburetor works you don't actually need to use an intercooler. Most people don't know that though.
120,000rpm is closer the mark
If I were to install the turbo, set it at low boost (or none) and drive like a granny until I can afford a megasquirt, can I run the engine without blowing it up?
@@astrocent Short answer: Stock ECUs won't work well (or at all) with a set up that wasn't built with forced induction to begin with. You will need it to be tuned either thru a flashed ECU or an aftermarket one.
@@BoomarangComet not even for a 5 minute drive to home from the shop?
Great video EricTheCarGuy
You covered this subject in _exhausting_ detail! 😝
Ouch!
>.>
GET OUT.
m.blacktree I see what you did there. Lol
@@NaveenKumar-oj7xh 😂 I was gonna say the same thing but you took it.
Hey Eric The Car Guy, I really appreciate your videos. They helped me understand a lot. I was able to pass my ASE G1 test. As a new mechanic I have learned a lot and just wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge.
That is awesome. I'm so happy to hear my work has helped you. Thanks for your comment and good luck in your career as a mechanic.
Another thing to consider is turbo size. People think a bigger turbo makes big power (or boost) that maybe true in a sense. But depending upon application. A smaller turbo would be as effective or more useful.
Small turbos are better at making power down low to mid range (nearly eliminating turbo lag). A big turbo makes power at mid to upper R.P.M range due to its size(but you suffer more turbo lag).
So in the end. Depending upon the type of build (4, 6 or 8 cycl) sizing your turbo can be a big benefit in the enjoyment of when you drive the vehicle
animal16365 only Americans would think a bigger turbo makes more power
G33 rt, your such a idiot, americand cars barley use turbos, most are na or sc. Unless they are built. So please get your facts right.
guts drugs idk where you get your info from but we have loads of turbo cars at every meet here in the states. so maybe instead of going around calling people idiots in vain you should take your purse and go sit down
Really, what cars come with turbos from from factory, that has a v8?
GuTs Drugs what does the number of cylinders have to do with it? You said "americans dont turbo much. Everything is NA" and called dude an idiot.... well youre wrong. Americans put turbos on everything they can get their hands on. We have multiple domestic turbo manufactures to choose from. Hell one of our beiggest domestic car companies, ford, has a turbo option for EVERY vehicle in their lineup including the cheap cheap economy car known as the fiesta... people here turbo everything from hondas to mustangs, camaros and corvettes. You cant go to a car meet without finding multiple turbo cars there... even our granny cars have turbo options from factory ffs
Coming from a guy who's been working on turbo cars for a long time, I received a lot of criticism on the forums and Facebook for using RTV on exhaust parts. It has worked for me, and I'm glad it's working on your engine. Keep the videos coming Eric 👍
Yea, I knew some people would have issue with it, but I would wager they don't have experience using it. Also don't forget to true up the manifolds! Even more important than the gasket you use. Thanks for the comment.
Also should know when building a turbocharged diesel is to make sure to install a shut off valve on the oil injector line of the turbo and a shut off valve on the fuel line before a run away can occur
yep a bad enough oil seal leak in a diesel turbo can cause a runaway situation as the engine just decides to run on the raw oil run to maw rpm and either stay there until it overheats and ceases (killing the engine) or it throws a rod (killing the engine) and oil based runaway situation is a guaranteed way for you diesel to be roadkill
more like an intake plate, if there is no air there can not be combustion
renaults have the valve cover and intake manifold combined and they are plastic on diesels. they constantly fail and people think that the turbos are failing. when the plastic cracks you have boost leaks and also you start spewing oil everywhere including outside and inside the engine.
@Pavel Kutlev FYI intake plates can leak in air as well as wooden blocks!! NO Fuel NO oil NO Fire
@Pavel Kutlev btw worn turbo shafts are usually the main cause for a run away on a turbo charged diesel
Hi Eric, nice video. Just know, there are a whole bunch of us, who really like Fairmont videos. And really like your repair videos. And ETCG1. Keep it up!!!
I appreciate each and every one of you. Thank you!
1: do it.
2: for sure do it.
3: nope do it but with a bigger turbo
4: do it x 4
5: ull probably blow alot of cash for a bunch of power but for a short period of time before breaking some or many things, and its all worth it...
Definitely get someone who is known to tune your engine specially boosted engines. Tuner - builder relationship is important!
Wow Eric... just think of the suffering you've saved some poor sap from with this video! You Rock man!!
That was my intention. Thanks for the comment.
Great intention rare quality to find these days@@ericthecarguy
about the only tip i dont agree with is where your BOV reference signal is from.
the bov as you said releases excess pressure when you slam that throttle shut BUT how it stays closed under boost is a combination of spring pressure and boost pressure via the reference line. the BOV boost pressure reference line is supposed to go AFTER the throttle body so that when you slam the throttle shut the BOV reference line goes to vacuum and the pressure differential between the two forces the BOV open
this simple oversight is propbably why you prefer the BOV directly next to your compressor as there is a pressure difference across the inter cooler allowing it to operate somewhat close to correctly because previously when it was after the intercooler the reference line and the release valve would have been seeing the same pressure thus i assume you got the slight cho cho cho sound as boost went back through your compressor until enough of pressure difference was seen between the reference line and the BOV
now of course i could be completely wrong about this because yours is a carburetted engine which relies heavily on a pressure difference accross the CARB thus reference source like on your boost gauge would possibly be a few points of a psi lower than before the carb.
before people ask how dos the bov stay close when you accelerate instead of letting all you boost out thats what the spring in the BOV is for the spring is a low pressure spring just enough to colapse under vacuum but strong enough to close the BOV as the throttle is opened usually 1-2 psi this small amount of closing pressure is enough to keep it closed while the reference line is being pressurized rembering that it's not the BOV spring keeping it closed but an equilibrium of pressure between the top and bottom of the valve.
for me my BOV and boost guage are referenced from the same source
i totally agree with your wastegate signal placement and to a lesser extent control method (i'm an EBC kinda guy)
Yeah this guy knows his shit.
Vacuum/Boost gauge and BOV should both be read BELOW the throttle plate.
When you fix this, i expect you'll notice some major differences when coming off the throttle.
yeah i would hope so i daily drive my modified boosted engine admittedly mine is an injected car with standalone engine management system controlling everything including the boost.
just a couple of vid explaining how a bov works
ruclips.net/video/fbCMGyCK1E4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/cTMwtvZtpGA/видео.html
Spot on man, the vacuum created when shutting the throttle allows it to open. Good advice
The thing that makes his different than most cars is that he is using a blow through carburetor setup so using boost references in the intake manifold after the throttle plates on the carburetor makes things a little bit different. he doesn't want gas blowing into his blow off valve or in his mechanical boost pressure gauge. If anything what he should do is completely step away from a carburetor and a simple ignition retard setup, and set up a port fuel injection/stand-alone computer tuning. the fine-tuning engine games you get from this will be huge as well as driveability, use of different uses of fuel, elevation changes, yada yada basically a fucking huge list of reasons that are extremely beneficial
kyle hubner won’t work on a carbd car the “throttle body” on carb has fuel and air behind it.
At last! A man in the right mind with the right information for those DIY youtubers!😂
Well i can list them here
1. You will cry
2. You will blow your budget
3. Your wife will leave you
4. You will go bald
5. You will cry even more
Isn't that y u do it
Did you thank her #3
*still boosted*
It’s better than doing crack. Lol
6. You smile ear to ear
7. You cry some more
I have a different method to build a turbo engine, I don't worry as much about airflow if i want more power i just turn the boost up. Also don't spend a fortune building a motor many times a used running engine will do if you just open up the piston ring gap and use arp headstuds and decent mls headgaskets you would be very surprised how much power can be made reliably on stock internals if it is tuned properly especially a big beefy v8 engine. Also use the highest octane fuel you can get and if you have access to e85 that is the fuel you should be using. Bad tuning can melt down an expensive forged engine and good tuning can keep a junk stock engine alive with factory parts.
ETCG rockin' it!
I just love your project! You are having fun, but you're also doing everything right and as perfect as mind and money will allow. I know it's not all whipped cream and cherries. I know there's a LOT of thought, frustration, physical fatigue, and mental anguish in a project like this. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK! Thanks for continuing to post these videos!
Ended there is, but I love it.
turbo sizing is important, stickier tires, fuel pump, an AFR gauge is a very useful tool to have, a thicker radiator, being able to brake from more horsepower than what the vehicle was intended for. these are all also important systems in conjunction to what you already listed so maybe you can follow up with a part 2 to this video!
Your blowoff valve should have a line running from the intake manifold (vacuum reference with throttle plate closed). It's not there to prevent overboosting. It's to release pressure when you close the throttle plate. The vacuum from the intake manifold opens the valve.
Make sure you buy quality items. Quality may not always be expensive though. Just read the reviews. Also, all universal kits will need modifications to fit on your engine. Lastly Forged internals are Highly recommended, They are stronger and can withstand the heat and extra pressure that boost or NOS can makes.
you are awre MOST factory internals are forged these days forging merely refered to the mettal being produced under pressure. you can have a rod that looks cast that was made via a cast forge method whereby it was cast under pressure and therfore FORGED. the process of pressurizing the metal straightens the metal molecule chains
kyle hubner all good for a modern engine but something like a small block Chevy or mopar from the 70s-90s as far as I know are cast internals. This is when the person that wants to do these modifications need to do their research
Richard Price you can get away with cast internals but it's not ideal
Richard Price I'm honestly not sure. It wouldn't surprise me though since top fuel dragsters use a blown big block hemi and a fox body 302 also has stock internals.
Richard Price I wouldn't go past 5-8psi. The engine Masters show on motortrend were able to push much more on a stock engine
I have never thought of building a turbo charged engine, but the information you provided should help those who are going to build one.
K-Wool insulation would help with the heat on other surrounding components or even under the reflective blankets you have installed. Its used for doing local post weld heat treating of piping after welding. The piping is heated to anywhere from 1100 to 1400 degs. The insulation comes in different thicknesses from I think about a 1/2 inch to about 2 inches. You could even split it to make it even thinner. A little would go along way. You can almost put your hand on top of this 1inch thick insulation when the heat treating is in process at the above said temperatures. Ive been in the heavy-duty welding and manufacturing industry for along time and can tell you this insulation is good stuff and might help with the localized heat problems there around the turbo.
Industrial Ceramic Fiber Blanket insulation is good for 2300 F, is lightweight, low thermal conductivity, low
thermal capacity, thermal shock resistant, flexible, non-brittle, durable, asbestos free and reasonably priced.
It is similar to the shuttle insulation used by NASA.
A 1 inch thick blanket would be more than adequate.
I estimate approximately $40 USD to completely insulate the headers, turbo and down pipe.
ruclips.net/video/16PG4ptyrXg/видео.html
shop.unitherm.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CF6-1-24X60in&gclid=CjwKCAiAlL_UBRBoEiwAXKgW55BxwiTzYPmPUR6OPH4XKRgRT9zjTjeeclhsCsvLKAiTTJpqhB54eRoCA6kQAvD_BwE
Wow best tip video on turbo. Didn't get alot of info until this video gave such a descriptive info :)
My best tip for any modified car - hope for the best, but expect the worst...so attention to detail will pay big dividends in the long run.
Your engine is also a thing of beauty to me. Thanks for the tips, I have been dreaming of putting a turbo on my car, but it's my only one for now, and I still need something to be driveable.
Back in the day, anything I owned with headers had exhaust leaks, and burnt up starters (GM). Was a never ending battle! I discovered Permatex Ultra Copper back in those days at the advice of a speed shop, and have been using it ever since. I would use a gasket, but I'd smear both sides with a layer, not too thick & not too thin. Seemed to work pretty good - they would last 10x longer. I recall also having problems with the header bolts loosening up, contributing to blown gaskets. I got into the habit of checking them whenever I popped the hood to check the oil.
Ahh the joys of performance cars! :)
Smitty Smithsonite this sounds like my truck. And it's... Not a performance vehicle lol. But I've come to love it. KA24E stock I wanna go fast
I had the same issue with a car I used to have. Back then i was too young to even think of a table top belt sander,But! When i saw him put the copper permatex on, I had a eurika moment because thats what I did on my car. It was the only thing I could get to work becase it just ate exhaust gaskets one after another.
Yeah a lot of the cheapo headers were junk at the flanges to begin with.
Don't know how I missed this episode. Yes, we get "value from Eric the car guy". You are still one of the best car educators out here.
Hey Eric, great video! There's a comment below about your BOV configuration, it's not correct and you may be losing boost because of it. The copper RTV suggestion is good, I've also had great success with Remflex graphite gaskets (been boosting the 5.0 for 9 years now). A good option if your headers flange isn't true enough to get away with just some thin RTV. Finally, I agree with the engine building suggestions, though it is good to mention the exception - you don't want the best-flowing naturally aspirated cam you can get. Turbos hate overlap, you want a really mild cam (stock is aok) or a turbo-specific one for the best results.
Excellent points. Thanks for your input.
EricTheCarGuy I was about to say the same. Th BOV you want around 12” from the throttle body and definitely after an intercooler.
that's what we initially said. comments around his inter-cooler piping setup suggested for him to run from turbo to inter-cooler to throttle-body in the shortest way possible his kit had all the piping go to the passenger side even after going through the inter-cooler looping back around and following HOT components. after i suspect much headache around getting the piping to fit properly (there was alot going on on that side of the engine) he did swap the hat around shorten up the piping and had the bov right next to the throttle (as he said in this video) however his reference signal for the BOV is in the wrong place it is meant to go behind the throttle plate.
but don't take my word for it go and look at all the cars factory equipped with BOV's all of those have the bov reference after the throttle body.
if everything is working correctly the moment you open the throttle it goes from vacuum to atmospheric pressure ie -16+ inches of mercure to 0 on your gauge. from here you revs start to increase and with it your turbine and compressor speed. at this point if the BOV is working properly it is CLOSED and has spring pressure of maybe 1-2 psi holding it shut and an equilibrium of pressure top and bottom thus the BOV can hold 1-2psi of boost without the reference signal. now we keep going boost is starting to build and pressure goes up we are now seeing 2 psi on the gauge this mean the entire system has atleast 2 psi in it including both top and bottom of the bov so now we have 2 psi ontop of the bov plus the 2 psi of spring pressure meaning it can hold against 4psi of pressure below the valve.
see NO BOOST IS EVER LOST provided everything is working properly
ruclips.net/video/fbCMGyCK1E4/видео.html
note he calls the nipple at the top A VACUUM NIPPLE it's not a boost nipple
ruclips.net/video/cTMwtvZtpGA/видео.html
and there you go same guy explaining how they work i was alil off about the spring but it does help
I'm thinking about putting a turbo on my 300 straight 6 in my truck. This video was very helpful. Thanks.
Awesome info, Eric. Maybe one day do a similar video regarding superchargers and another video regarding twinchargers?
Sounds like I need to get building.
I think you have you blow off valve hooked up in correctly. Your signal should come from the underside of the carburetor. This way when you come off of the throttle, and the pressure differential is great between the charge pipe and the intake manifold, your blowoff valve will come open. Also you want it as close to the carburetor as possible.
The way you have it plumbed, the blowoff valve will never open.
I always learn something from your vids! Thanks
Thanks Eric! I'm adding a turbo to my 1.6 diesel VW bus, will be wrapping the whole exhaust system before a highway test thanks to this video. 100HP here I come!!
A couple of things.
While it is good advice to built the engine to be a high-flowing NA engine, that's not 100% accurate as a high-flow NA camshaft profile won't necessarily work well for a supercharged engine. In many cases the factory camshaft will outperform a really big, NA "rump, rump" racing cam as that high degree of overlap lets a lot of boost blow right out the exhaust.
You need a high performance camshaft designed for supercharging, if you're going to take it that far.
Also, the main purpose of a blow-off valve (BOV) isn't to control over-boosting per se (that's the main job of the wastegate). The purpose of a BOV is to prevent a pressure spike from damaging the compressor (reversion) in the turbo when the throttle valve is suddenly closed under boost by giving the air another path (either to atmosphere or back to the compressor intake).
All in all, a very good video. Thanks for sharing your experiences with the little details of turbocharging sometimes overlooked. Very helpful.
It's not the size of the cam. It's the lobe separation angles and overlap that is key
I think it's awesome you built up that Fairmont. Back in the 90s my brother died some basic tune and suspension on a low mileage Fairmont as a commuter. Great riding car ! Your install/build looks great man.
Excellent info Eric. Your videos are giving real engineering touch along with dirty hands repairs. Great work.
Thank you!
Wow, 189 people have no idea what he is talking about. This is all 100% accurate, especially the part about liquid gasket! There's a reason header manufacturers recommend it also!!! Why would you give this a thumbs down??
Hey Eric, just looking at the space available to work on the engine and it reminded me off a really old video you made where you said how much you dislike modified cars lol
Correction, how much I dislike 'badly' modified cars. There is a difference between someone who bolts on parts hoping for results and someone who knows what they're doing. ;)
hamza3608 oh yeah I remember that video. Ha. He did say that. Lol
Experience is just another word for mistakes. Seems like Big Eric has a lot of experience.
Thanks Eric.
Wow what a superb video!! Concise and interesting!!
Hey Eric, I recommend you start building undertays, at least for the engine. It will keep the undercarriage clean and more importantly, improve aerodynamics. If you eventually make a full tube and cover the entire underbody of the car, you should see significant gains in high-speed stability. Would sure make for some entertaining videos!
Did you just say "Dark Matter Pikachu?"
1:40
Ahhahahahahaha
He said it several times. I thought I imagined it the first time but no
yea, that's the name of his engine... Dont you know? Did you watch the Kalvinator videos? -- Thats where DMP was born :)
@@MonoChorMe No i didn't know xD
DarkdragonKev you can find the videos in chronological order in the Fairmont playlist... Its worth a watch. 🙂
I’m not and probably never will install a supercharger, but this content is A+! Great work Eric!
As far as camshaft /valvetrain goes , newbies should contact a company like Comp Cams to recommend a proper camshaft , springs , valves , pushrods , lifters , rockers , etc. Turbo cams open the exhaust valve before it hits Bottom Dead Center and it takes a lot of pressure to open the valve against the expanding gas.
Excellent idea. They're the ones that hooked me up.
Cams are a black art. One of those things you want an specialist for.
I thought opening the exhaust early (before BDC) was standard for a high revving engine? This is part of increasing exhaust value duration. Correct me, if I'm wrong.
Man you're great. I have a small diesel engine but I really enjoy your videos. Everything you've done with the car is well designed and thought of. Well done man
Thank you!
Welcome back!
A few things I'd add as an owner of a factory turbo'd car whose wick I turned up from 230/250 @ the wheels to 390/385 @ the wheels with key supporting mods, a turbo upgrade, and ethanol fuel mixing and/or methanol spraying (depending on the tune I run) for additional safety, octane, cooling, and cleaning:
1. Make SURE you have proper heat management. Like you said, this relates not only to coolant and oil, but also running enough ring-end gap clearance to avoid ring butting and popping a ringland. This also relates to proper intercooling, and spraying methanol is especially helpful not only for the added octane, but also for further cylinder cooling and cleaning.
2. Run catch can(s) setups for your blowby. This becomes all the more salient when you really turn up boost, and especially if you have larger ring-end gaps to support said boost.
3. AFR and having enough fueling are ESSENTIAL; everything being done perfectly build-wise cannot avoid a blown engine happening with a quickness if you go lean under high boost. Watch those AFRs, ensure you have enough fuel, and maybe install both overboost and AFR protection that'll trigger if either gets out of the proper range.
I’m diggin the boost knob😏😏
Subscribed.
Really like the way you explained it, especially the way you speak
Really easy to understand and unlike many others who either yell it in your ears, whisper or sidetrack .
Thanks eric. Can you please put out some more videos on the fairmont . My wife said send that guy a note to say he is to young to retire.
I'm sorting that out now. I have over 60 days worth of footage I need to work through. It's a lot. I'm trying to get help with that. Once I do, I plan to start releasing Fairmont videos in addition to the Friday videos. I put this one out to give the people that enjoy the #FairmontProject videos something to watch.
Thank man. your vids r a family thing here. we compare r maverick to your fairmont on all vids
Oh thats the best explanation on turbo setup on youtube so far and what eric said about having the boost low on an na engine setup is 100 percent true but it also applies to force induction engines as well.a few stuff he should include in this build was an oil cooler cause at 150mph the viscosity of the oil will change which is not good for turbo and bearings under high compression and heat.but eric you have done the best and safest build i have seen so far cause in my country guys are mostly concern about boost and not focusing on engine.i usually reduce the oil to the turbo cause the flow to the return line does not flow quick enough causing oil to sip pass the bearing in the turbo.nice set up
All things turbo explained. Glad I'm installing a supercharger. ;)
You're probably better off. Turbos can be a PITA.
I'm thinking the same on my build...but what kind? Hmmm
Turbos ok, but nothing beats being blown!
cameron marshall
You couldn't have stated that more eloquently.
Super chargers are old school and there's nothing wrong with old school turbos are a pita when you are dealing in carburettors and mechanical ignition make all the electronic and they can't beat. I will admit a supercharger is a simpler instal with less to instal and behaves much the same way as a n/a engine
Great video. Also a great way of securing bolts, as on your headers, "NORD LOCKS". Also glad to see your subscribers at 1.2m! That's freak'n awesome.
Great information and very accurate, great job 👌🏻
I've watched them all and learned that you can have a go but leave the technical stuff to the experts, like you my internal engine parts is being done by the professionals.
Its a duratec 3.0 V6 and going twin G25 turbos.
Thanks for doing them for us all to watch 👌
Saved this video since I'm tossing around the idea of adding a supercharger to my 460 Mopar stroker once I get to that build... Too many decisions. Lots of great info tho.
That sounds awesome. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy thank you....gotta say I'm a tad star struck that you responded. Lol
Hodge-Podge Garage I’m using turbochargers with my big block mopar the supercharger is old school looks and sounds but I know someone else that has a sbm and he loves his draw though single off a power stroke diesel 34 Plymouth 3 window . If I already had a 6-71 blower hanging out I’d use it but starting from scratch I gave up on the idea because of the advancement in turbocharging and fuel injection and the cost of setting up the bds blower correctly
Richard Price it's been a thought but I keep going back and forth. I think it's going to boil down to how much money I have when I'm ready to order the engine parts. If not enough for a blower, then I'll probably just do the stroker and call it a day. I'm not building a race car so a 460 stroker will probably have plenty of power on its own
Hodge-Podge Garage don't waste all that money on a supercharger
I have been a fan for a very long time. I love the video on your turbo build.You are the man
Blow off valve prevents over boosting? Isn't that the job of the waste gate?
I didn't choose my words well there. It prevents compressor damage when the throttle slams shut.
Ahh gotcha. Really glad to hear you've got the bugs ironed out of the Fairmont. I'm sure you'll be putting quite a few miles on it this year.
I'm looking at a 22 hour drive in 2 weeks. I hope I can sort out the rest of the bugs before then....
I've got faith in you. Shouldn't be too many surprises, and the bugs must not be too big. What's up with the fueling issue? Is it just dropping fuel pressure at full boost?
Bring tools. Then it will be just like Roadkill. Or maybe not - you won't need to take the hood off I guess...
Good to have you back Eric!!!!👍🏻👍🏻
I'm not a mechanic, don't shoot me :)
What comes to mind is the "diminishing returns rule" and climbing costs for every extra 1% of performance added, also the added costs for fixing the bad side effects created in the process.
The hardware additions, changes, timing, and smooooth flow is the bulk of your added performance.
The bad side effects are heat, lubrication problems, harmonic vibration, more weight of the engine and support systems adding to the loss.
It's a bugger aint it LOL :-D
zx8401ztv The “payback” is the look on the faces of guys in high dollar cars as you go around them.
If I'm honest a vehicle like this is a money pit. That's part of the reason I made the series. To warn others of the dangers. But I also wanted to show that you can realize a dream. It may take a lot of time and money, but it can be very satisfying in the end. I went overboard with this car. I don't plan to do that with the next one. You're right though, it's a lot of time, money, and effort, for very little return in the end. That is, unless you're counting the feeling you get from a job well done driving something you built from the ground up.
zx8401ztv your gun reference is extremely immature.
EricTheCarGuy.
Yes it has cost and arm and a leg, but you have reached a point where you are happy, the main side effects are fixed and you don't need to sell your first born lol :-D.
Oh im not a mechanic, but learning from the right teacher is fun, thats why i watch you, not buttering you up or anything.
TexasScout Noneofyourbusiness,
Oh yes, im sure it will bring a smile to erics face a lot :-D
Class tips ! I can imagine the pain of that trial and error, not to mention the tedious search for solutions. Cheers!
I think your rig could take on Leroy! Do it fer 'Murica!
Gregor Miller DMP runs 14s leroy runs 8s
Ohh, now it does....your sayin there isn't a show down?
14s? This? A naturally aspirated 302 could do that. This should be able to run 9s.
..Theres always handicapping. I just like the car community doing colab's. I can imagine SuperRob, Cleetus, ETCG, KC Paints and if you could talk Mike Finnegan to rally, i'd pay to see that:)
good to see you got your channel back up and running
Glad you're back Eric
Eric, proven technology from Caterpillar is to make sure those exhaust manifolds bolts stay tight is to use 4 inch studs with 3 inch spacers. The extra length lets the studs stretch much further during torquing and acts like a spring as everything heats up and cools down. Hope that helps
THANNNNNK YOU for stating the truth: you don't necessarily want all the boost, because it's a measure of restriction (backpressure) on the intake side. SO MANY people don't get that. Making your engine more efficient will lower your boost pressure while simultaneously making more power... And that's what you really want. The less boost you run, the less heat you make, the less octane you need to use, and the safer overall the motor is, especially say on a particularly hot day hotter than normal.
Did my whole turbo setup in my LS swapped C10 for less that $750 and couldn’t be happier. Runs and drives great, getting around 18mpg, and fun as hell. 👍🏻👍🏻 Making plans now to do another build aimed more for track duty only. Setting total build budget at $5000 and aiming for low 10s to high 9s. 👍🏻
$750? That's what I'm talking about. I have a Yukon XL that has high miles and starting to run like garbage so I may be rebuilding it. Was thinking about adding a turbo to get a little more oomph for towing my travel trailer. Would you mind telling me what parts you used? Thanks.
Thanks for suffering threw experimentation so i know what to do for my build also copper rtv is going to be my new best friend when building engines now ive had similar issues with gaskets
Man I love that car. Very unique! I hope to obtain the skills and resources to fabricate my own monster one day. Congrats!
Great video! I installed a turbo on my 1967 Camaro 3 years ago so I went through all those steps but it is nice to see the detail that you put into it and your own tips about it. Like the exhaust and not using a gasket, I use a gasket and I use the Copper head gasket sealant but I still blow them out after awhile. I will check the level of the header next time and try with out a gasket. Thank you for the great videos you put out!
Followed the Fairmont project for awhile. In 1985 I had a 75 monarch 2dr , 351 Windsor put 2x2.2 ltr dodge turbos on it. Carb 4165 holley was BEFORE the turbos. You mention pain and suffering, floor pan wrinkled and the hood blew off with a lot of fire works. Learning sometimes is a hard process.
Eric. I do have to say, with your top 5 / 6 things to building a turbo charged setup. This setup on your car looks to be quite promising, durable and reliable long term. That is a great setup!
Spot on sir. Maximum Boost by Corky Bell is your bible. I've had to run safety wire on my turbo mounting bolts before. Hard lessons learned after owning a turbo vehicle modified continuously for 10 years lol
That is the neatest engine bay ever! Eric a really nice job,you made it fit,work and look nice too!
Thanks!
A lot of bloody awesome info in this vid, thanks heaps mate. Keep up the great work.
You've came long way since I started throwing wrenches at my 99 Taurus when I was 16 watching you lol good days bub it's already been 7 years wow.
Envy your success!
Actually, I'm in my 9th year of doing this. Thanks for sticking with me.
You've made me a A DIY mechanic Eric, from cooling, to brakes to electrical, all the way to using a OHMS meter.
Not thanks required Thank You!
I’ve got a little tip to throw in from experience, prime your turbo oil lines and turbo with oil before you start the vehicle, I fried 2 turbos on the same car because of that, I pulled the ignition or fuel fuse and cranked the engine over a couple times till oil squirted out the line, hooked it all up the crank a couple more times to get oil into the turbo,
Etc is the king of RUclipsrs
5 things gimmick moving on. this is where you shine man.very good video
The signal for the blowoff valve should be from the low-pressure side of the throttle!
I remember the video in which you first began wrapping your exhaust with that heat resistant material. You knew what you were going for and doing but seemed like it was a bit painstaking. After seeing this vid, I'll bet you're *really* good at it now! I personally am really looking forward to more Fairmont Project vids. I'm sure it took a LOT of trial and error but it looks like a work of art.
Thank you! Yea, I'm still not finished. Perhaps I never will be, but I love the work so there's that. I'll have more Fairmont videos. I just need to work out some editing. That'll take some time, but I'm hoping it's a better series in the end. Thank you again.
Great video, Eric. I had no idea of the complexity of the build. Kudos.
I'm sure someone has said this, but multilayer steel gaskets are by far the best for turbo systems. Also the best head gaskets for a turbo car. And the bov should be connected to the intake manifold after the throttle. It's supposed to open when you shut the throttle to prevent compressor surge and damage to the turbo. It needs the manifold vacuum to open which you won't have before the throttle. At least you won't have nearly as much. But great video!
I love that you are primarily a honda man, but you got a big bad FORD turbo project. Good job man, she's lookin mean!
Im glad your posting again on this channel
Thanks. I posted last week as well. It seems a lot of people missed this one. ruclips.net/video/IcV6Rd4MiZ4/видео.html
Eric the one thing I would recommend is using is FireSleeve on your oil supply line to the turbo. It's sold by Aeroquip and you cut it to size. The have a dip for the end to finish it off correctly. Its protects the supply line from heat damage and the possibility of rupture.
Those exhaust blankets are a must good find.
What, you don't like my 3/8" fuel line sleeve?
Thanks very much for this video , Eric ! Lots of great hard - won info .
Helpful information Eric. Thanks for sharing your headaches so many of us can learn what to do and what not to do.
That was part of the reason I did this project. I'm glad I was able to condense some of that knowledge in this video. Thanks for the comment.
great job done Eric, now I would never think about build a turbocharged car. Let's go supercharge.
6.) If it's an import:
-Get Garage
- Get lift
-Get engine hoist
-Get engine stand
-Remove motor
-Install motor with turbo
-If something breaks, rinse, repeat
-Install punching bag in said Garage
American cars are imports here so thanks
Wow hit a lot good points. I faced similar problems on my built. Very good video
Nice infos. Here the major pain is oil leakage from oil pan and/or crankshaft seal, probably because too much blow-by pressure. Need some extra holes to vent it to catch-can.
Very cool Eric! Glad you're back.
Thats what I've been telling a lot of people before, and they don't think it matters with a turbo engine, but airflow matters, just like I told people all psi isn't the same like 7 psi on a smaller turbo and 7 psi on a huge turbo aren't the same because they will flow differently at that boost level, I rather have really good flowing heads and exhaust, because I can flow way more air at a lower psi because it will be easier for the turbo to flow air into the engine so,when I crank it up I will make even more HP
All my questions has finally been answered, thank you so much for posting this video
Very informative as expected. Great quality as always, great work. Would love to see similar videos on highly tuned NA and charger builds. =)
The huge list of links is very appreciated
Already knew all of this stuff since I actually built my own custom turbo engine. But I like your explanations.
However, your BOV doesn't prevent over boosting... That's what a Waste Gate does. A BOV only helps prevent "compressor surge" which is air pressure being trapped and backtracking after a throttle plate closes and the air goes back into the turbo outlet.
As far as gaskets a MLS gasket with a few layers of spray on copper gasket works well.
Great video! Very informative...your descriptions were spot on and the information was correct! Newbies should watch
These tips are the ones that can save your engine conponents. Especially from heat.
A BOV does not prevent overboosting a BOV is meant to remove excess air in the charge pipes/ IC system by taking pressure from the throttle body when the IACV closes, it’s meant to remove all that excess pressure so the excess pressure doesn’t come out the turbo (what causes flutter) it in some cases is bad for the turbo because it’s physically stopping to remove the excess pressure that a blow off valve could remove in the system.