Many thanks for this instruction. I have to cut several 32"-wide doors to 30." A circular saw is the tool to use! Trimming the edge and keeping it straight is virtually impossible. Given the saw design, only a very short fence can be used. Further it has to be wide enough to clamp to the door without the saw motor housing running into it. Your design is perfect. I went to Lowes and bought a sheet of 3/16" hardboard. They cut it for me. The ONLY modification I made to your brilliant idea was to add an aluminum molding -- the type used to frame sheets of Marlite (R), for example. This gives a firm, square edge and the saw housing still clears the cutting guide. Now I have sufficient space to clamp the guide and it is ridgid enough that the finished cut is straight. I'm not the type of guy to gush so over an "invention," but this really is a valuable idea. I am very impressed. Best Wishes.
Thank you for not calling this "simple" but then going on to use a table saw! Here in the UK, I only have a very small garage and I cannot afford a table saw right now. So having something I can do that really does use basic tools is great.
Very nice. I've been looking at buying one, but this will save me a chunk of change. One thing I wasn't sure of was, when you said "from the blade to the edge", did you mean from the side of the blade or the center of the blade?
Fantastic, very helpful.. I am left-handed and it has been very painful for me using all kinds of tools like mouse, scissors, guitar, rifle, etc., and also the circular saw.. Thanks a lot...
This is to make the first cut easy, following the factory edge flush with the edge of the saws base. Mark the factory edge, and then use it as the guide edge of the jig when assembled. (See 0:59)
It helps you square it up when you put it on top of your cutting material with a rafter Square. Also make sure you leave enough material so that when you're clamping it you don't catch the clamps with your saw.
Yes, .25 thickness would work for the base of the guide. You would likely still be better off with a thicker “fence” section of the jig to have a more substantial edge to guide the saw base.
This is the video I was looking for. Super light weight compared to all the other ones I saw. Funny thing is I sold my almost brand new Porter Cable table saw a year ago because it took up too much space in the garage and I needed the money 😂
Great video,im going to try this today with an alluminium straight edge guide i have lying around shop and some birch plywood Im going to make a 4ft and 8ft one
The only issue is that you will need one that is for ripping 8 foot length and whatever sizes you use or have to use since it isn't adjustable. One thing he didn't include is sometimes you may need to turn your saw around which will be a different spacing to the blade. By initially installing the guide in the middle you can make cut in on e direction then turn it around to clear the motor. Another draw back in comparison to an adjustable guide is if you use a different saw and it happens to be a different distance to the blade. I have ones I have made and one I have bought. and they both can give same result just the one I bought is easier if you need to take it to a job site. It also has built in clamps to secure it. I also clamp it with more clamps so it doesn't flex when running the longer cuts. It does not line up on saw blade so you need to mark your cut and an inch or whatever is appropriate when you secure the guide as opposed to the diy ones where you can just line the edge with the actual cut mark.
I have a DIY track saw made out of plywood. Is it possible to attach anti-slip rubber or foam tape to the bottom of my plywood track to make it anti-slip so I don't have to clamp the track down all the time? Where would I buy this tape? thx
Great video!! It's not hard to find companies who are more than glad to help you spend big bucks on gadgets they sell. But, I'm just beginning woodworking and doesn't quite the wear and tear characteristics of most materials. What sheeting did you use and what would work well?
Hi Marco, if you are using solid wood for the treads, you will need a sawblade designed for crosscutting, or a combo blade that can work pretty well for either type of cut. If the treads are MDF or some other man-made material, then a higher tooth count would be better.
You could, but be aware that it wouldn't give you much flat surface to reference off of. You wouldn't want to run it like that and the saw tip and create a kickback or angled cut. You would need something of equal thickness on the other side of the cut to support the larger, bottom face of the saw to prevent that.
But why is the outside fence the same size as distance from the blade. Fence can be any width? 0:52 I am using flooring laminates that were lying around and this came out amazing. Thank you!
The outside fence can be any width. It’s just easy to make it the same width as the base when using your finger as the guide along the edge of the sheet stock when cutting it.
Awesome. I use a 2x4 and run it across my jointer to give me a straight edge. Then clamp it down as you did and run the saw against the jointed edge. Costs 3$ :)
You can make a guide to use both sides of the saw. Just make the guide board wider (wide enough for both sides to be a guide and with the middle strip) and cut both sides. You can make two setups; one for crosscutting a panel and one longer for ripping.
Yeah but I'd like to make a guide that is long enough to cut any direction on a 4x8 piece of plywood. Basically a 9ft edge. So where do you find a 9ft piece of hardboard?
Hi Jason, you won’t find a piece of hardwood or plywood 9-feet long. You can laminate a base piece 9-foot or even longer by using 1/8” plywood, ripping pieces and gluing them into a very long piece.
To the point. No long intro or discussions. Gave me what I need. Thank you much!
"for those who don't have a table saw...yet" haha, love it!
That was a great line... table saws have always scared me... maybe one day... yet, ha ha...
So simple, yet very useful. Sir, thanks for going straight to the point too, it's much appreciated!
Simple, clear and brief - one of the most useful and helpful video i ever seen. Thank you.
(I see that many others have similar comments)
Many thanks for this instruction. I have to cut several 32"-wide doors to 30." A circular saw is the tool to use! Trimming the edge and keeping it straight is virtually impossible. Given the saw design, only a very short fence can be used. Further it has to be wide enough to clamp to the door without the saw motor housing running into it. Your design is perfect. I went to Lowes and bought a sheet of 3/16" hardboard. They cut it for me. The ONLY modification I made to your brilliant idea was to add an aluminum molding -- the type used to frame sheets of Marlite (R), for example. This gives a firm, square edge and the saw housing still clears the cutting guide. Now I have sufficient space to clamp the guide and it is ridgid enough that the finished cut is straight. I'm not the type of guy to gush so over an "invention," but this really is a valuable idea. I am very impressed. Best Wishes.
Great idea with the metal molding. How did you attach it?
So many videos require a table saw to make the jig. This was the most clear and simple video I've seen that DOESN'T need a table saw. Thank you!
I was just about to buy one of the guides when I saw this video. You've saved me time and money, thanks!
Excellent video. The simplicity too. Making one today. Great Job.
Thanks! Glad it could help. 🙌
Thanks! I'm new to woodworking and don't have all the expensive tools, so this really helps
🙌
Joey Gladstone teaching us how to make a circular saw guide. I like it.
Excellent video. That's the proper to show to use the only tool we have available in that moment: the circular saw. Congrats.
Thank you for not calling this "simple" but then going on to use a table saw! Here in the UK, I only have a very small garage and I cannot afford a table saw right now. So having something I can do that really does use basic tools is great.
This is brilliant !
I think this set up would also work also when using a palm held router,
This is the clearest and simplest 'guide' I have seen yet. Excellent tutorial, thx
THANK YOU!!!! This is going to make my life SOOOOOOOOO much easier as a new woodworker! :-)
Greetings,
Going to make my guides tomorrow.
Thank you for the video.
Chief Ken Bauer, USAF (Ret)
WOW!
This is too easy, simple and off course inexpensive, and just what I wanted. Thanks...
I was looking for the most easiest way to make a guide and I found it. Thanks a lot. God bless
Super idea. simple and easy to build for a new entrant, thank you!
Thank you. Just what I was looking for.
Thank you for clear & easy to catch demonstration and explanation
Gonna make one for my jigsaw too! Thanks.
Thanks for this . Looked at a lot of videos on this. This was the most comprehensive and to the point. I built it and it works great.
Thanks for the lesson now I can make one. 👍👍
Thank you! I was trying to read how to do this out of a book I just bought and I was NOT getting it. This was very clear
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching! 🙌
"For those of you that don't have a table saw.... yet" Hahahhaha Dammit don't push me to spend even more money
be nice.
Very nice. I've been looking at buying one, but this will save me a chunk of change. One thing I wasn't sure of was, when you said "from the blade to the edge", did you mean from the side of the blade or the center of the blade?
The side of the blade. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Saved me a load of cash. I can put the money towards a table saw now...
Thanks for the simplest Circular Saw Cutting Guide! 👍
Just what I was looking for! Thanks!
Awesome, just what I needed to not throw out my circular saw and stop buying myself a table saw … yet! 😅
It's a handy alternative... But you'll find yourself still needing/wanting a table saw. 😂🙌
thank you, since i am still struggling to straight cut with my circ saw
Awesome!! Thanks for sharing. Nice tip about the plywood and foam for cutting! Can't wait to get my table saw.
MANY THANKS!!! You have saved me a small fortune!!! I dont have to buy a guide rail!!!!!
Thank you!
Thanks to you. I just made one. Great video!
Awesome! Glad we could help. 🙌💙
Wow there’s always something new to learn about.
We are all forever students. 🙌💙
Excellent DIY solution; simple, effective, and saves money. Thank you.
Fantastic, very helpful.. I am left-handed and it has been very painful for me using all kinds of tools like mouse, scissors, guitar, rifle, etc., and also the circular saw.. Thanks a lot...
Awesome! Thank you
🙌
Great idea! A lot less expensive than buying a fancy guide.
Awesome tutorial. Is there a reason why the width of the fence has to equal the distance between the blade and the edge of the saw's base? (See 0:50)
This is to make the first cut easy, following the factory edge flush with the edge of the saws base. Mark the factory edge, and then use it as the guide edge of the jig when assembled. (See 0:59)
That's too simple, and I can put off buying a track saw for a little bit. Thanks a lot!!
It helps you square it up when you put it on top of your cutting material with a rafter Square. Also make sure you leave enough material so that when you're clamping it you don't catch the clamps with your saw.
WOW!!! Thanks, this really help
Great idea mate
Awesome. Loved your video and I am going to make one for DIY projects
thank you dude, simple, common sense idea which helps a lot, thanks for posting 👍
Thanks! Looks like a good channel. I subscribed. :)
Thank you! Very useful
Very good!
Brilliant. Love this. Will save me time and money. Mostly money, lol
That was easy and very helpful.. thanks for video!
Such a simple guide rail
Thank you for sharing your thought
This is so simple, can't wait to make one myself. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks a lot for your video
Is the thickness of your sheet stock you’re cutting .5 inches? Would .25 inches work too to allow the circular saw to ride the edge?
Yes, .25 thickness would work for the base of the guide. You would likely still be better off with a thicker “fence” section of the jig to have a more substantial edge to guide the saw base.
Nice, I’ll do this. Thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Boy, do I love this video!!! I definite will try this!
Awesome video. Extremely clear and to the point. Thank you for sharing.
Many thanks for the video. I nearly spent 90 dollars to buy an aluminium one. From cyprus
This is the video I was looking for. Super light weight compared to all the other ones I saw.
Funny thing is I sold my almost brand new Porter Cable table saw a year ago because it took up too much space in the garage and I needed the money 😂
I just made this exactly the way he showed... First time perfect cuts!! So happy!! Thank you so much!
Very interesting and simple to make
i've been using this kind of guide for several years now and it works great for me.
Thanks sr!
Great explanation
Duuuude.... love this perfectly laid out and simple video .. thank you!
This is the way!
What is the thickness of the foam insulation you use and where to get it?
Great video,im going to try this today with an alluminium straight edge guide i have lying around shop and some birch plywood
Im going to make a 4ft and 8ft one
Make 2 4x8 and cut the second one at 3ft. That way you can have a couple shorter ones that aren't as cumbersome when needing to rip smaller pieces.
Best circular saw guide video ive seen. Thanks for sharing with us
Thanks, I was going to buy one of these. This will be much cheaper.
The only issue is that you will need one that is for ripping 8 foot length and whatever sizes you use or have to use since it isn't adjustable. One thing he didn't include is sometimes you may need to turn your saw around which will be a different spacing to the blade. By initially installing the guide in the middle you can make cut in on e direction then turn it around to clear the motor. Another draw back in comparison to an adjustable guide is if you use a different saw and it happens to be a different distance to the blade. I have ones I have made and one I have bought. and they both can give same result just the one I bought is easier if you need to take it to a job site. It also has built in clamps to secure it. I also clamp it with more clamps so it doesn't flex when running the longer cuts. It does not line up on saw blade so you need to mark your cut and an inch or whatever is appropriate when you secure the guide as opposed to the diy ones where you can just line the edge with the actual cut mark.
I have a DIY track saw made out of plywood. Is it possible to attach anti-slip rubber or foam tape to the bottom of my plywood track to make it anti-slip so I don't have to clamp the track down all the time? Where would I buy this tape? thx
Hi, Please reach out to our product support team at 1-800-260-9663 or support@rockler.com. They'll be able to assist you. Thank you
Awesome!
not all heroes wear capes
Thank you so much! I don't have a table saw and most videos have all the shop machines which a lot of us don't have
What is the thicknest ideal of that hardboard? Is it 1/8 or 1/4 ??
Both can work, but 1 / 4” thick is probably better.
Thank you
thank you for the guide. why buy one when you can make one!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching! 🙌
Great video!! It's not hard to find companies who are more than glad to help you spend big bucks on gadgets they sell. But, I'm just beginning woodworking and doesn't quite the wear and tear characteristics of most materials. What sheeting did you use and what would work well?
Hi Will, we used tempered hardboard to make the guide.
Very useful 👍
Terima kasih tutorialnya,salam sukses menyertai
💙
@@rockler 👍👍👍
Simple and effective. Thanks.
cool idea,thanks
Thank you for keeping it simple and fast.
excellent very simple good for new comers, thanks a lot. explained very well. 👍👍
I know what I'm doing this weekend lol.
Have fun!
That was really useful, thanks very much
Hey I need to cut stair treads and so I will make the jig but which blade do you recommend for my circular saw. The treads are red oak.
Hi Marco, if you are using solid wood for the treads, you will need a sawblade designed for crosscutting, or a combo blade that can work pretty well for either type of cut. If the treads are MDF or some other man-made material, then a higher tooth count would be better.
Can you make the guide so that you are cutting on the short side of the circular saw?
You could, but be aware that it wouldn't give you much flat surface to reference off of. You wouldn't want to run it like that and the saw tip and create a kickback or angled cut. You would need something of equal thickness on the other side of the cut to support the larger, bottom face of the saw to prevent that.
Awesome Video! Thanks very helpful.
Thank you Sir, you explained very nicely, for beginners. 👍👍, I can make one now.
But why is the outside fence the same size as distance from the blade. Fence can be any width? 0:52 I am using flooring laminates that were lying around and this came out amazing. Thank you!
The outside fence can be any width. It’s just easy to make it the same width as the base when using your finger as the guide along the edge of the sheet stock when cutting it.
Awesome. I use a 2x4 and run it across my jointer to give me a straight edge. Then clamp it down as you did and run the saw against the jointed edge. Costs 3$ :)
You made a cut at 13". What happens if I need a cut at 3" or 6" for example. Thank you for sharing your time and experience with us.
Clamp the guide to the opposite side of the cut.
You can make a guide to use both sides of the saw. Just make the guide board wider (wide enough for both sides to be a guide and with the middle strip) and cut both sides. You can make two setups; one for crosscutting a panel and one longer for ripping.
@@tooolboxx But you need 9ft to rip the diagonal
Simples 👍
🙌
Simple and effective. Thank you so much for sharing this idea.
Yeah but I'd like to make a guide that is long enough to cut any direction on a 4x8 piece of plywood. Basically a 9ft edge. So where do you find a 9ft piece of hardboard?
Hi Jason, you won’t find a piece of hardwood or plywood 9-feet long. You can laminate a base piece 9-foot or even longer by using 1/8” plywood, ripping pieces and gluing them into a very long piece.