First one should note; This is not a CR (in name only) nor is it an E3S1Pro. All linear rails and the xy bed rail looks like it was fabricated out of a 57Buick bumper (beefy). The stepper motors are huge, 48's. The tool head is a their Sprit direct drive, but with a Volcano hot end with hardened steel tip and can go to 310c. The heated bed can goto 110c. The injection molded base/enclosure is a direct copy of the E3S1Pro. The internal side where the rails bolt too are all metal framing. For brains it has the Neptune pad so it is a "Klipper" not a Marlin. It can also use both the AI camera as well as the Lidar module from Creality. It can also use the Falcon 10watt Laser kit which I also have. The fit and finish is top shelf as in Lincoln Continental compared to a Ford Focus (they are both technically cars). Did I mention that it is also a hotrod. 19min Benchy in a near perfect print. I don't know maybe I should start doing uTube unbox, review, here is the spec sheet stuff. If you need an enclosure so you can print nylon carbon fiber which this thing can do Clearviewplastic.com makes them for this model. The closest model to this one is the Ender3 KE, but without the beefy versions of rails, hotend and motors. Yes I pre-rooted mine day one and have full access to all things Klipper.
I hope folks realize that you really should run through the included calibration tools within Creality Print for the filament used. I use Inland PLA+ and did the calibrations. The difference between your Benchy and mine you wouldn't know that the same model was used. I don't get the stringing, bell ringing or the z stuff with a 19min print. Nothing special, just through setup.
still don't understand why the filament sensor is an after thought on these machines. Seems like they could easily add the filament sensor to the hot end. Great video, Guy!
HELP! I have bought many CR10-SE and they all have the same problem. If there is a change in electrical voltage while printing, the CR Touch activates and lowers the probe and hits the print which causes the CR Touch probe to break. With each power failure I lose a lot of money, it is a BUG that the printer has i guess? do you know how to solve it? it happened to 7 of my CR10-SE so its a problem of all of those printers
I got one for $250, to replace my original e3. I do wish it retained more of the cr10 build volume and wonder who decided to call this a CR10 vs a 5 or CR6 SE v2 etc. I’m looking forward to playing around with it while my T1 is being built. The S1 and T1 are delayed again and surprised no RUclips videos on it yet. Thanks for the review.
Yeah, naming this a CR10 wqas kinda strange. I have just learned not to question such things anymore. I amm interested in the new Flsun printers also. Hopefully soon.
I got one of these the other day, and I’m still trying to get it setup. It seems that no slicer softwares actually have the printer setup available, and nobody has vids on it either.
I have a quick question. There is no CR10-SE profile on Cura. How can I manage that? Creality Print is not quite enough for me. Would you recommend any other slicer for this model? But first, if you know anything about managing the Cura and help me about it, that would be great🙏🏽
_If_ I were to buy a Creality, I'd opt for the K1 in place of this one personally. Being limited to PLA, PETG, and perhaps TPU doesn't make sense to me at it's current price. While fast, the print quality is still rough to me compared to a K1 anyway. Thanks for the video Guy, always enjoy them!
I continue to pop error codes directly out of the box. I was able to print the test boat just fine. After two small test prints off of thingiverse, I can't print anything else. I get "nozzle heating not as expected" and "Key:3000 unknown exception" I've had this model for two weeks. It will pass the self tests, but continues to pop the Key:3000 nozzle heating not as expected" This is my first printer and I'm at a loss. The creality website has 4 error codes, and nothing related to this issue. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Got this about 4 days ago and it would seem that Creality's bed mesh does a poor job of adjusting. My bed has a tilt From the left to the right and there will always be small elephants foot on the higher side of the print
I’d like to replace an Ender 3 S1 pro with the CR 10. I’m very new to 3D printing. I like the CR 10 (great video BTW) for the speed. I don’t do a lot of printing because It’s still new and amazing to me. Is there anything to watch for if I get this printer? Can I start printing from the box after setup without downloading any firmware?
How to calibrate X,Y,Z axis? How to change flow during printing? How to send gcode commands? I own this printr for a month, and can't find those informations.
ive been having y axis skips on my cr-6 se since i conevrted to klipper and do high accel high speed prints to the point i swapped steppers,belt and wheels and still happens someitme sruingin a print an dmaking horrible vibrating sound so im at a point where i either swap themaing bpoard to see if thats the issue or maybe just quit spending on it and buy a new printer, i have a sonci pad already will this be a good steup or shold i lok to something higher in the range?
@@ExpandedUniverse000 mine hasn’t just some weird vibration, a lot less evident since I switched to hiwin linear rails on y axis, but still haven’t figured out why,also I swapped the front tensioner out sorta to an all metal one with the wheel with teeth on it to grip the belt like the pulley on the stepper
Taking mine back this is a polished turd. The fan is so loud I couldnt keep it in my room had to put in another room and can still here it. The lack of tuning settings is a huge negative I can not adjust speed while printing or lower the z. Ive tried printing several items at 100 speed that have turned out horrible and this is for a machine that boasts 600. No support with cura! Think twice before buying this printer
First one should note; This is not a CR (in name only) nor is it an E3S1Pro. All linear rails and the xy bed rail looks like it was fabricated out of a 57Buick bumper (beefy). The stepper motors are huge, 48's. The tool head is a their Sprit direct drive, but with a Volcano hot end with hardened steel tip and can go to 310c. The heated bed can goto 110c. The injection molded base/enclosure is a direct copy of the E3S1Pro. The internal side where the rails bolt too are all metal framing. For brains it has the Neptune pad so it is a "Klipper" not a Marlin. It can also use both the AI camera as well as the Lidar module from Creality. It can also use the Falcon 10watt Laser kit which I also have. The fit and finish is top shelf as in Lincoln Continental compared to a Ford Focus (they are both technically cars). Did I mention that it is also a hotrod. 19min Benchy in a near perfect print. I don't know maybe I should start doing uTube unbox, review, here is the spec sheet stuff. If you need an enclosure so you can print nylon carbon fiber which this thing can do Clearviewplastic.com makes them for this model. The closest model to this one is the Ender3 KE, but without the beefy versions of rails, hotend and motors. Yes I pre-rooted mine day one and have full access to all things Klipper.
I hope folks realize that you really should run through the included calibration tools within Creality Print for the filament used. I use Inland PLA+ and did the calibrations. The difference between your Benchy and mine you wouldn't know that the same model was used. I don't get the stringing, bell ringing or the z stuff with a 19min print. Nothing special, just through setup.
Microcenter @ $289.00. I'm going back to buy two more. The thing just works.
still don't understand why the filament sensor is an after thought on these machines. Seems like they could easily add the filament sensor to the hot end. Great video, Guy!
I agree. That thing hanging of the top rail like that is kinda janky. Thanks for all your support John!
adding it on the hotend increases it's weigth = less speed
HELP! I have bought many CR10-SE and they all have the same problem. If there is a change in electrical voltage while printing, the CR Touch activates and lowers the probe and hits the print which causes the CR Touch probe to break. With each power failure I lose a lot of money, it is a BUG that the printer has i guess? do you know how to solve it? it happened to 7 of my CR10-SE so its a problem of all of those printers
I got one for $250, to replace my original e3. I do wish it retained more of the cr10 build volume and wonder who decided to call this a CR10 vs a 5 or CR6 SE v2 etc. I’m looking forward to playing around with it while my T1 is being built. The S1 and T1 are delayed again and surprised no RUclips videos on it yet. Thanks for the review.
Yeah, naming this a CR10 wqas kinda strange. I have just learned not to question such things anymore. I amm interested in the new Flsun printers also. Hopefully soon.
I'm absorbing all this information wanting to buy a 3D printer. Thanks!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I got one of these the other day, and I’m still trying to get it setup. It seems that no slicer softwares actually have the printer setup available, and nobody has vids on it either.
The Creality Print software has a print profile for the machine.
@@GuysShop can you use it without using the cloud?
Bottom is off. 240 seems hot - Was it PTEG?
I have a quick question. There is no CR10-SE profile on Cura. How can I manage that? Creality Print is not quite enough for me. Would you recommend any other slicer for this model? But first, if you know anything about managing the Cura and help me about it, that would be great🙏🏽
I wish I couold be of more help as I really don't use Cura . And for this I'm just using Creality slicer.
When you paused a print can you charge the filament color and then resume the print?
I have not done that on this printer, however I'm sure it will work on it.
Ich habe den Fehler key: 2194 Was kann ich tun?
Hi!!! Did you say the nozzle is the same as K1??? I’d like to know that because I want to buy a 0.2 nozzle to my CR10SE. Thank you.
It really looks the same. I have not measued it to find out if it is.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
_If_ I were to buy a Creality, I'd opt for the K1 in place of this one personally. Being limited to PLA, PETG, and perhaps TPU doesn't make sense to me at it's current price. While fast, the print quality is still rough to me compared to a K1 anyway. Thanks for the video Guy, always enjoy them!
I think for some this might be the right printer. However for a little extra $$$, the K1 does represent a better value.
Correct me if I'm wrong. The CR-10 SE specs said it support filament materials of PLA, PETC, PET TPV, PLA Wood, ABS,
ASA, PA, PLA-CF.
I continue to pop error codes directly out of the box. I was able to print the test boat just fine. After two small test prints off of thingiverse, I can't print anything else. I get "nozzle heating not as expected" and "Key:3000 unknown exception"
I've had this model for two weeks. It will pass the self tests, but continues to pop the Key:3000 nozzle heating not as expected"
This is my first printer and I'm at a loss. The creality website has 4 error codes, and nothing related to this issue.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
There could be an issue with it. I would definately contact Creality customer support for an answer.
I appreciate the response. I'm worried because everywhere you look, their customer service is basically nonexistent. @@GuysShop
Were you able to get rid of the Z Banding? I bought one and can't seem to get rid of it
I played with the tension on the belts and it did get better.
Got this about 4 days ago and it would seem that Creality's bed mesh does a poor job of adjusting. My bed has a tilt From the left to the right and there will always be small elephants foot on the higher side of the print
How far off is the bed at it's extremes? I found that I could just tighten/loosen the bed screws to get it were I needed it to be.
@@GuysShop The bed is off by 1mm . I printed some shims and had to add some heat resistant tape for fine tuning.
I’d like to replace an Ender 3 S1 pro with the CR 10. I’m very new to 3D printing. I like the CR 10 (great video BTW) for the speed. I don’t do a lot of printing because It’s still new and amazing to me. Is there anything to watch for if I get this printer? Can I start printing from the box after setup without downloading any firmware?
This is a really good printer except for the fan noise. I would really take a look at the Ender 3 V3 KE. Almost the same printer for a lot less.
I got this for 297 euros with shipping so it was a same price as KE for me. Didn't need to think twice.
Any chance you can point me wto where I can get the STL for that creality scraper?
It came on the USB stick with the printer. Maybe on Crealitys site they have it available
How to calibrate X,Y,Z axis? How to change flow during printing? How to send gcode commands? I own this printr for a month, and can't find those informations.
Was tech support unable to help you with this?
@@GuysShopunfortunately not.
@@GuysShopbecause I haven't tried to ask them
Which slicer do you use for this printer?
Orca SLicer and Creality Print
@@GuysShop can not find my printer in them. I live in Europe is that a problem perhaps?
@@GuysShop I can not find my cr 10 se in any of them. What am I doing wrong?
ive been having y axis skips on my cr-6 se since i conevrted to klipper and do high accel high speed prints to the point i swapped steppers,belt and wheels and still happens someitme sruingin a print an dmaking horrible vibrating sound so im at a point where i either swap themaing bpoard to see if thats the issue or maybe just quit spending on it and buy a new printer, i have a sonci pad already will this be a good steup or shold i lok to something higher in the range?
my y axis belt broke 3 times
@@ExpandedUniverse000 mine hasn’t just some weird vibration, a lot less evident since I switched to hiwin linear rails on y axis, but still haven’t figured out why,also I swapped the front tensioner out sorta to an all metal one with the wheel with teeth on it to grip the belt like the pulley on the stepper
STL for the trash can?
Unfortunately I don't remeber where I got it from as I have had it a long time. Sorry!
I think we should wait until the ender 3 v3 KE appears...
I still think the E3 V3 SE is the best value right now in their line.
@@GuysShop yeah, it is. But KE promises to give you double speed/acceleration and klipper for just 30% more price...
@@ultrazar4412 Thanks this is what I was looking for.. the difference
I got mine at $330
I also was able to find the same deal.
Taking mine back this is a polished turd. The fan is so loud I couldnt keep it in my room had to put in another room and can still here it. The lack of tuning settings is a huge negative I can not adjust speed while printing or lower the z. Ive tried printing several items at 100 speed that have turned out horrible and this is for a machine that boasts 600. No support with cura! Think twice before buying this printer
Cool because there are no wheels... a reviewer from God