I had to learn about clocking the heads the hard way when first obtaining my 76 sportster. Had constant issues with intake leaks because of a previous owner who didn't orientate the heads to be flush with the intake.
@@DWchopshop got it. I haven’t taken the intake apart yet. It’s an early 90’ S&S motor. It has the S&S super B and Intake that looks exactly like your video. Will it really be that different?
@ScrewyLuie73 ohh I see. I thought you had a legitimate panhead. The s&s motors have a lit of changes to make them more dependable. I've never worked on one, but it might not be that different. It's just nuts and bolts. If you need any help let me know.
@@DWchopshop yeah I’ve been noticing some differences just from little work I’ve done when compared to my old shop manual. Wondering if I can get a S&S shop manual for my specific motor? Any way thanks for the offer of advice. I will be taking you up on it soon. Thank you sir and keep up the great work.
Cool video man, im gonna try going back to the o-ring style. I ran the square tite seal things for a bit with 2 smaller clamps on each side, but they ended up slipping and damaged the rubber. Is it possible to do both o-ring and square tite seals?😅
I like oem seals, they are fast and easy, and if yourbheads are clocked they seal fine. I have taken bikes apart that have all sorts of seals mixed up on the manifold lol. So yeah I'm sure you can, but its not a best practice 😂
That sleeve is for a later type of intake seal. some guys double them up and use the O-ring and the sleeve. But you should only need the O ring. There's also been all sorts of aftermarket kits made over the years that use all sorts of O ring or plastic parts and sleeves that "guarantee" a seal. What year bike are you working on?
I had to learn about clocking the heads the hard way when first obtaining my 76 sportster. Had constant issues with intake leaks because of a previous owner who didn't orientate the heads to be flush with the intake.
It's one of those easy things people skip and it causes a lot of headaches.
Great video. I’ll check my Pan head. Thanks
You can check your panhead the same way. But it will be a lot different to change the seals.
@@DWchopshop got it. I haven’t taken the intake apart yet. It’s an early 90’ S&S motor. It has the S&S super B and Intake that looks exactly like your video. Will it really be that different?
@ScrewyLuie73 ohh I see. I thought you had a legitimate panhead. The s&s motors have a lit of changes to make them more dependable. I've never worked on one, but it might not be that different. It's just nuts and bolts. If you need any help let me know.
@@DWchopshop yeah I’ve been noticing some differences just from little work I’ve done when compared to my old shop manual. Wondering if I can get a S&S shop manual for my specific motor?
Any way thanks for the offer of advice. I will be taking you up on it soon.
Thank you sir and keep up the great work.
@@ScrewyLuie73 I'm sure you can find a manual for that specific engine. S&S engines are common, and they are a great company.
Cool video man, im gonna try going back to the o-ring style.
I ran the square tite seal things for a bit with 2 smaller clamps on each side, but they ended up slipping and damaged the rubber.
Is it possible to do both o-ring and square tite seals?😅
I like oem seals, they are fast and easy, and if yourbheads are clocked they seal fine.
I have taken bikes apart that have all sorts of seals mixed up on the manifold lol. So yeah I'm sure you can, but its not a best practice 😂
I have this exact damn project going on. I too have no friends but can I get those o rings at Lowes
Just make sure they are Vinton o-rings. Normal.black rubber will break down with contact from fuel.
Good video. Thanks.
You're welcome! Glad you liked it, hoped it helps! I have a better and newer video that explains clocking the heads and goes over intake seals.
So you don't need the rubber/plastic sleave around the "O" ring
That sleeve is for a later type of intake seal. some guys double them up and use the O-ring and the sleeve. But you should only need the O ring. There's also been all sorts of aftermarket kits made over the years that use all sorts of O ring or plastic parts and sleeves that "guarantee" a seal. What year bike are you working on?
clockn doze heads!
🤘