A good tip using the seeders is on the inside seed cover write what pasture or yard you did and the seeding rates then when growing season is done you can reference back what you applied it to know if you need same settings and rates..
From my experience seeding CRP and pasture, grass with a box drill, grass seed tends to pack un the box and slow the flow to the seed cups. Some drills add agitators to the boxes specifically for seeding grass. Another method is to mix the grass seed with an annual grain like barley seed to minimize packing. The barley dies off after the first year leaving a perennial grass pasture
@@TractorTimewithTim Looks like a good drill. I really like the crank and catch pan for calibration. Think you are spot on with gearing down the seed shaft speed and exposing more seed flute for better accuracy. Seeding grass mixes are a pain. Even humidity can affect bridging. Always enjoy your video. Quality and editing second to none on You Tube.
Tim, does it also give rates in 1000sq feet or just acres? You did a great job explaining things. Also it's great to show you using it the first time in a real world situation since that first use information is critical showing folks how to set it up and learning how to use it.
Those green seed meters are actually John Deere’s and are called fluted feed cups. The basic design is well over 100 years old. I helped develop that design over 30 yrs ago. That meter is actually meant for larger grains like wheat, oats, barley, soybeans, etc. For grass seed, typically you use the small, black meters on the rear box. They are also John Deere and are called grass seed cups. They are the same basic design with a smaller fluted feed roll. You can expose more of the roll to better control your rates on light seed like grass seed. You might try a test run using those.
You folks did a great job. I’ve not used one, but I’ve heard good things about the Woods seeder. The local Woods dealer rents them, with very good reports. I appreciate Christy’s work with the video and capturing the workings of the unit. Interesting to watch. Blessings.
I have an older version of this machine. I dont use it a lot, but i really like it. I like it because its three operations in one. I also use it without the seed for smoothing out rough areas in a yard. Really a handy machine at times.
Nice seeder, it will apply the seed very accurately. It will be interesting to see how evenly the seed germinated on Len's horse pasture after a few weeks.
Awesome video! I work for Woods and these little seeders are fantastic and super accurate. Don’t forget, you can leave the calibration lynch pin out and it disengages the seeder. Then you can use it as a disc to work up the ground. Two tools in one!
Great experiences video. I think you exposed the void in the pro-sumer market when it comes to seeding, weeding and fertilizing. It seems to make it difficult for the 2-3 acre people…
Just wanted to add maybe seeding one way an then go cross ways will give you a lot better stand instead of seeding one way . You will see that when it starts growing. Just in my experience I found that out . Just trying to help .
Tim, rather than remove the loader or bucket, I just raise the bucket above the fence and am able to get much closer and make turning easier. My 2038R has the Faster unit, so removing the lift is only about 3 minutes.
I’d be curious to see the results. I think the area that you went over twice may actually germinate better, since you essentially firmed the soil before seeding. Those small seeds germinate better near the surface.
I have a 5’ older woods overseeder with the roller bars w spikes and when seeding ground that is existing turf or seeding prepped ground as in this video I always run over the area with my smooth drum roller that weighs 5000lbs when full of water and ALWAYS get great results. Before I started doing that the results were ALWAYS poor. Unless you own a seed drill ALWAYS roll the area to insure seed / ground contact
Weight is the biggest factor for these, I picked up my dads fps72 today with my Ford 5000 to seed sunflowers this week. I was wishing I had my set of weights on the front as the front tires were very light. Looking forward to seeing how it works for sunflowers and overseeding some hay ground. This video was interesting to see calibration etc....
I half-fill fill the seed box before doing meter tests - the more seed seems to slow down the flow, so a half-full box gives a better indication of actual flow than just a small amount you tested with.
Some of my hay that I had for winter feeding had some of that clover in it. Definitely slobbery results. I did not know about that stuff on the white clover until this past winter, and was very much worried when it first happened.
it really pays to use less seed on passes and run 2 directions, a spring time seeding is going to be really difficult to maintain to begin with- i would be interested to see what it does on a full pasture for overseeding, we've been looking to buy a slit seeder and the new disc cutting types are much cheaper- just not sure how affective
Dang, that is a lot of math just to seed one acre. : - ) I would just fill my old shoulder seedbag and walk up and down the field hand cranking the seed out. Old School.....
Tim that coated seed can clump up and plug things up, you probably had a few clumps in there you had to pass through which probably caused you not to drop as much seed as you needed. I have the same problem at work with my dry fertilizer spreader, I just poke a stick down the hole lol.
most of these seeders of many types i have found setting number 6-7 is the best bang for your buck. FOR UNCOATED SEED. the coating clogs up your drop holes the more you throw down. for coated seed use only a broadcast spreader as that's the only type that can handle it. i would use this woods seeder cultipacker for corn, beans,carrots, garden veggies, flowers of any type but for grass seed it would strictly be rainbird, brillion toro, deere in that order. 1/3 of all grass seed just doesn't germinate due to germ or vigor failure to germinate usually dead upon harvest seed that was inert. michigan state university does a good job explaining this in their turf grasses knowledge base. missouri state university also covers it as well as oregon and minnesota. 22#'s per acre is pretty light...i'm talking sprinkling fairy dust light. i also hate using slitters to seed grass as grass as a row crop is extremely unattractive and will require overseeding for a decade to hopefully (cross your fingers) get maximum coverage with no barren ground showing. drop spiker seeders work well for un rowed grass but only 25%-30% of the seed makes it into good soil and grows. peeing away 70% of the seed (30% of all of it is automatically inert due to lack of germ/vigor) is frustrating, especially when a 40# bag is $180 and i am used to getting a 50# bag for $20 and an 80 pound bag for $35-50 depening upon fescue-rye-bluegrass amounts. i have to use northern blend and mix in 50% shade FOR NEW GRASS ONLY: also don't use coated grass seed with out automated irrigation as the fertilizer coating when the germinating grass doesn't get water will cause it to burn and die immediately. ideally you till your soil 4" immediately after throwing down your fertilizer and let that ground sit until it gets an inch of water and sit for a week or 2 before seeding or sodding. this lets the fertilizer mix in properly with out much chance of burning 30% instead of 100% and get absorbed into the soil and distribute properly while it adjusts the soil Ph. which if you used the right fertilizer for your soil conditions will optimize the ground for perfect growing conditions for half the growing year. and the first half of august SPIKE aerate (not core aerate) your soil before the last half august and beyond you want to use a liquid spray in water diluted fertilizer that is on the weaker side so as not to cause a burn right before winter. time it for when the fall rain starts usually the middle or end of august. basically right after the good first august rain the week before or of laborday week end, which will mean the next rain of that high amount will be in 1-2 weeks. which should keep it from burning the grass while giving it a healthy growth spurt kick of the high heat. and don't cut it below 4" for the first month after any fertilizer application to allow and promote good healthy root growth that will do more long term good root spreading than pain in your but cutting especially towards alot of those lawn damaged or barren areas. left and right braking is freaking awesome except for non powered tilling and mowing lawns, the john deere 140's and 300 series had left and right braking and i could literally apply standing force with out standing on either pedal and make an immediately 90-180-270-360º turns circles when plowing snow or snow blowing. i would use short of full wheel stoppage any other time to make short turns or just gradual changes to my lines with out using the steering wheel which was also extremely helpful to avoid boulders and flower beds and trees or fence lines.
I'm curious... Why didn't you lift the loader up over the fence as you made your headland turns, and then lower it back down on the long runs to keep the loader down low for stability?
Great video as always Tim! I can really attest to the benefit of the more simplistic or old school design of this seeder . I like the looks of your seeder a lot better then the Frontier seeder I have . Been fighting my slipper PTO clutch for a few weeks now. I would love to have a non PTO old school disk setup like yours . Ps I also fight trying to get the seed feeding rates right every year. I typically end up with your overall approach you used at the end , I too just keep opening it up till it looks like it’s putting out the desired seed volume. I have spent over $10k on seed in the past 2 years , so using a seeder to get good soil to seed contact is very important. Using a seeder should pay for itself in the long run.
Hi Tim & Christy. I have this same seeder. Purchased mine two years ago, before the steel pricing went crazy. I got both the discs and the spiked front roller, to switch out for where I'm seeding. Also bought both the poly and cast-iron dimpling/smoothing roller for the rear. One thing, and it's just my opinion, so no criticism from me, but I would have turned your disc angle a bit more just to help throw a little more dirt and widen the seed trench a bit. Seems like the topsoil was very crusty, and hard to get your seed down into the grooves. Good seed to soil contact. Just my two cents though. You'll love this seeder, Tim. I use mine all the time doing little projects like you did on this video. WOODS builds really nice equipment. Great camera work Christy! Have a nice Memorial Day weekend. :o)
If you can see the seed on the ground so can the birds. There was a friend of mine who reseeded a plowed pasture and was using a 8' seeder very similar to that woods seeder, might have been a Land Pride seeder ,and after he got thru the birds started hitting that pasture by the hundreds and he didn't have a good stand of grass/clover. Took him 2 years of replanting to get a good stand.
Very true. Going over it with a harrow on a low angle setting or even a piece of woven wire fence would have covered the seed just slightly. Better germination and less bird food.
Depending on how much you will seed, this seeder will pay for itself via accuracy. Seed is so expensive. This seeder will help you to plant the exact amount you intend…not wasting seed. THAT is the selling point.
Did the idea to use a sprayer come up to give the seeds a little jump start? I don't know what the weather is like where you're at, but I remember the summer I spent in mid -Illinois and it was rough. God Bless.
Oh how I wish the John Deere 3025,35,43D has twin brakes. It’s a must for working in the woods I say. They are heavy duty tractors but no twin brakes or Backhoe. 😩
Hey Tim, Off topic, back blades. How much larger than the tractor is good, a foot, two, three? I ask because when angling them, I don't imagine I'd want it to describe a cut smaller than the wheelbase.
The next thing that you need to learn about using that seeder is DO NOT BE ROLLING WHEN YOU DROP IT ON THE GROUND , stop set it down , or you will do damage to the shaft that drives the seed cups , and put undue stress on the drive chain. Experienced owner of 4 of them.
No kidding , I have the twisted shafts to prove it , when I get back to the office on Tuesday I will try to email you the pictures other than that have a great memorial day weekend. Love the videos.
If you had removed the bucket from the loader and then elevated the loader above the height of the fence, would the turning brakes work without sliding the rear? Or is the weight of the loader and bucket the reason that the tire slides?
Do you sill like the seeder? Would you recommend it. I bought a cheaper one that is a constant fight to work. Now I'm thinking of getting one like this if it's worth the money. Hope to hear from you soon. Thank you in advance.
Yep. Used it a bunch this year. Check out this most recent usage. BURY ROCKS! NEW Soil Cultivator! Seeding the Former Hump! Kubota LX3310 ruclips.net/video/w1SUGXVFz4A/видео.html
Do you have a reason for your preference of using a 48 inch seeder rather than a 60 inch? Is it so you can use it with the 1025R? What about covering your tracks?
Good Morning Tim, Will the 1025 handle that thing? I'm looking for a seeder for my Massey. - And if I watched the video before asking you answered my question.
Lots of things could be contributing to this but that machine without a pto driven seeder tiller is really doing a poor job. If woods is saying it’s an overseeder then it’s not meant for this task. It might be specifically for overseeding existing lawns or grass areas. I would think a lawn treatment company might use this. From my experience professionally seeding new homes lawns this implement will not till the ground enough and we might have to go back multiple times. You can see it throughout the video the soil it’s being tilled enough. It’s doesn’t matter what your seed rate is if half of your seed doesn’t make it to germination depth or is sitting on top of rocks and/or clumps of soil.
your seeding inconsistency is due to you not switching the gears at the beginning when the is seeder closed up that much its very inconsistent and the seed is different sizes not feeding the same
Why 11 turns with faster gears and 4 turns with slower. Perhaps you had it backwards in hence the low rate. It seems counter intuitive to me to make more turns for a faster gears set and less turns for slower gears.
@@TractorTimewithTim yes more rotations of the shaft more seed dropped. So if the slow gears turn 100 times in a foot the faster gears turn 400 times in the same foot. Each turn drops seed so the higher gears drop more seed per foot. All you are doing with the hand crank is simulating forward motion. 11 turns makes sense if the handle bypasses the gears which maybe the case I'm not sure how it is setup to be honest was just a thought. Thanks for the great content 👍
@@namrayd1976 yes. Handle directly turns the seed meter shaft as you can see. Gearing is between the ground driven roller and the seed shaft…so not accounted for here.
It seems like they could make a simpler system for calibrating that was more accurate and easier to do. That system they have now is extremely time-consuming and actually not very accurate. Obviously because of the 2 sets of gears it can handle a wide range of seeding rates but answers video demonstrated it's hard to set and very problematic. For the cost of that seeder it would seem like they could do a much better designing a rate system that was easier to adjust and use. A company the deaths of commercially would certainly not put up with that and accuracy!
Uh, how would you propose to do it better. This is by far the best approach I have seen. They provide a chart giving a suggested setting, then you use this calibration for detail. I think it is fantastic.
@@TractorTimewithTim take a look at some of the larger seeders designed for commercial use. Some of them even have internal gear sets where you shift the ratio instead of having to change gears like you do on this 1. Yes, they all require calibration but it's certainly much simpler on many of them.
I think this approach is more precise. In my case, it wasn’t! However, I fully explained the reasons why. Yes, I wish both sets of gears were on there, and that the chain could easily be switched from slow to fast…that would have ‘fixed’ my main issue. However, this is pretty good, and I would not expect folks to change from 23lb/a few to 300+ lbs per acre very often.
@@TractorTimewithTim you are certainly correct that radical changes in rate like you discussed are not that common however for people in your situation is much more often than many others. The type of assistance I was referring to still have the calibration like you have to do but with the automatic gear change is much easier to calibrate and takes a lot less time! Overall though it is a nice system and it was a great video!
Nice seeing the Kubota being used, hope to see more of this..... another GREAT video... 👍
A good tip using the seeders is on the inside seed cover write what pasture or yard you did and the seeding rates then when growing season is done you can reference back what you applied it to know if you need same settings and rates..
Nice to see that you are using the Kubota
From my experience seeding CRP and pasture, grass with a box drill, grass seed tends to pack un the box and slow the flow to the seed cups. Some drills add agitators to the boxes specifically for seeding grass. Another method is to mix the grass seed with an annual grain like barley seed to minimize packing. The barley dies off after the first year leaving a perennial grass pasture
This is the way we do it.
This drill has an agitator.
@@TractorTimewithTim Looks like a good drill. I really like the crank and catch pan for calibration. Think you are spot on with gearing down the seed shaft speed and exposing more seed flute for better accuracy. Seeding grass mixes are a pain. Even humidity can affect bridging.
Always enjoy your video. Quality and editing second to none on You Tube.
That’s a really good idea.
I liked the Gab t-shirt. Keep up the good work.
You offered details on your seeder. It was new and there is a learning curve. Stick with your program. It is always fun to watch and learn.
Tim, does it also give rates in 1000sq feet or just acres? You did a great job explaining things. Also it's great to show you using it the first time in a real world situation since that first use information is critical showing folks how to set it up and learning how to use it.
Those green seed meters are actually John Deere’s and are called fluted feed cups. The basic design is well over 100 years old. I helped develop that design over 30 yrs ago. That meter is actually meant for larger grains like wheat, oats, barley, soybeans, etc. For grass seed, typically you use the small, black meters on the rear box. They are also John Deere and are called grass seed cups. They are the same basic design with a smaller fluted feed roll. You can expose more of the roll to better control your rates on light seed like grass seed. You might try a test run using those.
Thanks!
Probably should have used the back box.
You folks did a great job. I’ve not used one, but I’ve heard good things about the Woods seeder. The local Woods dealer rents them, with very good reports. I appreciate Christy’s work with the video and capturing the workings of the unit. Interesting to watch. Blessings.
I have an older version of this machine. I dont use it a lot, but i really like it. I like it because its three operations in one. I also use it without the seed for smoothing out rough areas in a yard. Really a handy machine at times.
Looking forward to more on this seeder!
Nice seeder, it will apply the seed very accurately. It will be interesting to see how evenly the seed germinated on Len's horse pasture after a few weeks.
Awesome video! I work for Woods and these little seeders are fantastic and super accurate. Don’t forget, you can leave the calibration lynch pin out and it disengages the seeder. Then you can use it as a disc to work up the ground. Two tools in one!
LOTS of flexibility with this seeder!
You need to raise your bucket high so you can turn over fence for your rows won’t be cut off .
Would Love to have one of those for doing my food plots in the fall.
Good looking seeder, really like the vid, even with the orange tractor pulling it.😂
The results... This is going to be great to see!
Great experiences video. I think you exposed the void in the pro-sumer market when it comes to seeding, weeding and fertilizing. It seems to make it difficult for the 2-3 acre people…
Just wanted to add maybe seeding one way an then go cross ways will give you a lot better stand instead of seeding one way . You will see that when it starts growing. Just in my experience I found that out . Just trying to help .
Tim, rather than remove the loader or bucket, I just raise the bucket above the fence and am able to get much closer and make turning easier. My 2038R has the Faster unit, so removing the lift is only about 3 minutes.
I’d be curious to see the results. I think the area that you went over twice may actually germinate better, since you essentially firmed the soil before seeding. Those small seeds germinate better near the surface.
I have a 5’ older woods overseeder with the roller bars w spikes and when seeding ground that is existing turf or seeding prepped ground as in this video I always run over the area with my smooth drum roller that weighs 5000lbs when full of water and ALWAYS get great results. Before I started doing that the results were ALWAYS poor. Unless you own a seed drill ALWAYS roll the area to insure seed / ground contact
I do think the ‘second pass’ with this seeder had the better seedbed…agreeing with your point.
Love mine. I have the frontier. Pretty sure it's exactly the same
Can’t wait to see another seeder video that’s awesome for sure.
Weight is the biggest factor for these, I picked up my dads fps72 today with my Ford 5000 to seed sunflowers this week. I was wishing I had my set of weights on the front as the front tires were very light. Looking forward to seeing how it works for sunflowers and overseeding some hay ground. This video was interesting to see calibration etc....
Love watching your videos
I half-fill fill the seed box before doing meter tests - the more seed seems to slow down the flow, so a half-full box gives a better indication of actual flow than just a small amount you tested with.
This test only uses two holes. Cannot fill it much without filling more holes (and wasting seed)
That makes things a little trickier!
Some of my hay that I had for winter feeding had some of that clover in it. Definitely slobbery results. I did not know about that stuff on the white clover until this past winter, and was very much worried when it first happened.
Wow..hope you get the feed rate sorted.
it really pays to use less seed on passes and run 2 directions, a spring time seeding is going to be really difficult to maintain to begin with- i would be interested to see what it does on a full pasture for overseeding, we've been looking to buy a slit seeder and the new disc cutting types are much cheaper- just not sure how affective
The equipment color matches pretty good, green wouldn't go with the seeder as good. Lol! That's alot of figuring for my head!
Dang, that is a lot of math just to seed one acre. : - )
I would just fill my old shoulder seedbag and walk up and down the field hand cranking the seed out. Old School.....
Tim that coated seed can clump up and plug things up, you probably had a few clumps in there you had to pass through which probably caused you not to drop as much seed as you needed.
I have the same problem at work with my dry fertilizer spreader, I just poke a stick down the hole lol.
I only seed in the fall so I don’t burn it up or drought that is really hard very small grass plants.
Could you have hooked up your sprayer and in the evening or early morning, give it a good coat of water ?
Neat tool. Nice field and horses.
most of these seeders of many types i have found setting number 6-7 is the best bang for your buck. FOR UNCOATED SEED. the coating clogs up your drop holes the more you throw down. for coated seed use only a broadcast spreader as that's the only type that can handle it.
i would use this woods seeder cultipacker for corn, beans,carrots, garden veggies, flowers of any type but for grass seed it would strictly be rainbird, brillion toro, deere in that order. 1/3 of all grass seed just doesn't germinate due to germ or vigor failure to germinate usually dead upon harvest seed that was inert. michigan state university does a good job explaining this in their turf grasses knowledge base. missouri state university also covers it as well as oregon and minnesota.
22#'s per acre is pretty light...i'm talking sprinkling fairy dust light. i also hate using slitters to seed grass as grass as a row crop is extremely unattractive and will require overseeding for a decade to hopefully (cross your fingers) get maximum coverage with no barren ground showing. drop spiker seeders work well for un rowed grass but only 25%-30% of the seed makes it into good soil and grows. peeing away 70% of the seed (30% of all of it is automatically inert due to lack of germ/vigor) is frustrating, especially when a 40# bag is $180 and i am used to getting a 50# bag for $20 and an 80 pound bag for $35-50 depening upon fescue-rye-bluegrass amounts. i have to use northern blend and mix in 50% shade
FOR NEW GRASS ONLY: also don't use coated grass seed with out automated irrigation as the fertilizer coating when the germinating grass doesn't get water will cause it to burn and die immediately. ideally you till your soil 4" immediately after throwing down your fertilizer and let that ground sit until it gets an inch of water and sit for a week or 2 before seeding or sodding. this lets the fertilizer mix in properly with out much chance of burning 30% instead of 100% and get absorbed into the soil and distribute properly while it adjusts the soil Ph. which if you used the right fertilizer for your soil conditions will optimize the ground for perfect growing conditions for half the growing year. and the first half of august SPIKE aerate (not core aerate) your soil before the last half august and beyond you want to use a liquid spray in water diluted fertilizer that is on the weaker side so as not to cause a burn right before winter. time it for when the fall rain starts usually the middle or end of august. basically right after the good first august rain the week before or of laborday week end, which will mean the next rain of that high amount will be in 1-2 weeks. which should keep it from burning the grass while giving it a healthy growth spurt kick of the high heat. and don't cut it below 4" for the first month after any fertilizer application to allow and promote good healthy root growth that will do more long term good root spreading than pain in your but cutting especially towards alot of those lawn damaged or barren areas.
left and right braking is freaking awesome except for non powered tilling and mowing lawns, the john deere 140's and 300 series had left and right braking and i could literally apply standing force with out standing on either pedal and make an immediately 90-180-270-360º turns circles when plowing snow or snow blowing. i would use short of full wheel stoppage any other time to make short turns or just gradual changes to my lines with out using the steering wheel which was also extremely helpful to avoid boulders and flower beds and trees or fence lines.
One thing I've discovered is for the turning brake to work best, it needs to be in 2wd. Try 2wd vs 4wd in a future episode?
Seems quite complex to me. Especially having to inter-change gear-sets. Would be interesting to see how difficult it is to change those out.
Yes, complex…but that is where the value comes. Precise control.
Love the seeder 👍
I'm curious... Why didn't you lift the loader up over the fence as you made your headland turns, and then lower it back down on the long runs to keep the loader down low for stability?
Great video as always Tim!
I can really attest to the benefit of the more simplistic or old school design of this seeder . I like the looks of your seeder a lot better then the Frontier seeder I have .
Been fighting my slipper PTO clutch for a few weeks now.
I would love to have a non PTO old school disk setup like yours .
Ps
I also fight trying to get the seed feeding rates right every year.
I typically end up with your overall approach you used at the end , I too just keep opening it up till it looks like it’s putting out the desired seed volume.
I have spent over $10k on seed in the past 2 years , so using a seeder to get good soil to seed contact is very important. Using a seeder should pay for itself in the long run.
Good video thanks.
Big take away on this episode is we need multiple tractors. You had to use orange cause it was the only one available. I think I like that idea 😂
I noticed while calibrating that you stopped every revolution when counting which probably also had an effect on seeding rate.
Could be.
Hi Tim & Christy. I have this same seeder. Purchased mine two years ago, before the steel pricing went crazy. I got both the discs and the spiked front roller, to switch out for where I'm seeding. Also bought both the poly and cast-iron dimpling/smoothing roller for the rear. One thing, and it's just my opinion, so no criticism from me, but I would have turned your disc angle a bit more just to help throw a little more dirt and widen the seed trench a bit. Seems like the topsoil was very crusty, and hard to get your seed down into the grooves. Good seed to soil contact. Just my two cents though. You'll love this seeder, Tim. I use mine all the time doing little projects like you did on this video. WOODS builds really nice equipment. Great camera work Christy! Have a nice Memorial Day weekend. :o)
If you can see the seed on the ground so can the birds. There was a friend of mine who reseeded a plowed pasture and was using a 8' seeder very similar to that woods seeder, might have been a Land Pride seeder ,and after he got thru the birds started hitting that pasture by the hundreds and he didn't have a good stand of grass/clover. Took him 2 years of replanting to get a good stand.
Very true. Going over it with a harrow on a low angle setting or even a piece of woven wire fence would have covered the seed just slightly. Better germination and less bird food.
@@garymeyer3294 I used an old bed spring with a railroad tie on it. Worked really good and didn't cost a dime.
Good video good content 👌
Would love to see a follow up to see how the seeds came in.
Gee, only a few doors down…I should go check on it!
Tim, you mentioned briefly that the seeder was expensive. How hard will it be to convince the Finance Committee that this implement is worth it?
Probably depends on the time of month the Finance Committee is meeting.
Depending on how much you will seed, this seeder will pay for itself via accuracy. Seed is so expensive. This seeder will help you to plant the exact amount you intend…not wasting seed.
THAT is the selling point.
Vid of changing gears next?
Did the idea to use a sprayer come up to give the seeds a little jump start? I don't know what the weather is like where you're at, but I remember the summer I spent in mid -Illinois and it was rough. God Bless.
Oh how I wish the John Deere 3025,35,43D has twin brakes. It’s a must for working in the woods I say. They are heavy duty tractors but no twin brakes or Backhoe. 😩
Did not know that. Might go old school instead of a new one. Thanks for the info
Hey Tim, Off topic, back blades. How much larger than the tractor is good, a foot, two, three? I ask because when angling them, I don't imagine I'd want it to describe a cut smaller than the wheelbase.
Will it do beans or corn? Or is that their Food Plot Seeder?
Would it be suitable for starting a new lawn ?
stay away from coated seed. I prefer Redtop Timothy and Orchard grass for pasture that way you can use a broad leaf chemical for weeds.
The next thing that you need to learn about using that seeder is DO NOT BE ROLLING WHEN YOU DROP IT ON THE GROUND , stop set it down , or you will do damage to the shaft that drives the seed cups , and put undue stress on the drive chain.
Experienced owner of 4 of them.
No kidding?
No kidding , I have the twisted shafts to prove it , when I get back to the office on Tuesday I will try to email you the pictures other than that have a great memorial day weekend.
Love the videos.
Great video - Do you know if this seeder can do corn or sunflowers?
Would not recommend corn. I dunno about sunflowers.
If you had removed the bucket from the loader and then elevated the loader above the height of the fence, would the turning brakes work without sliding the rear? Or is the weight of the loader and bucket the reason that the tire slides?
The weight is why the rear slides.
Spinning a tractor around by the brake is very hard on the spider gears and expensive, don't ask how I know that
What tractor did you break with that approach?
@@TractorTimewithTim Kubota B6000
Do you know the maximum seed size that the unit will handle?
I do not. I believe these are the same seed meters as used in some soybean drills.
Do you sill like the seeder? Would you recommend it. I bought a cheaper one that is a constant fight to work. Now I'm thinking of getting one like this if it's worth the money. Hope to hear from you soon. Thank you in advance.
Yep. Used it a bunch this year. Check out this most recent usage.
BURY ROCKS! NEW Soil Cultivator! Seeding the Former Hump! Kubota LX3310
ruclips.net/video/w1SUGXVFz4A/видео.html
@Tractor Time with Tim thank you. I'll have to give it a try.
Do you have a reason for your preference of using a 48 inch seeder rather than a 60 inch? Is it so you can use it with the 1025R? What about covering your tracks?
Yes…for 1025r
thanks as always for the bible verse at the end! That means the world is still in God's hands and not our own.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Good Morning Tim, Will the 1025 handle that thing? I'm looking for a seeder for my Massey. - And if I watched the video before asking you answered my question.
I have 1 on gc1723
Need talc powder with coated seed
I am honestly wonder about how big a seed it that would drill, also if y’all ever done any pto generator attachments for subcompact tractors
We will be showing a generator later this season.
@@TractorTimewithTim cool I am in the market for one
Advantages of this vs like a broadcast seeder?
Accuracy. Better seed to soil contact.
That is two off the top of my head.
Saving money on seed due to better accuracy should pay for such a seeder.
Lots of things could be contributing to this but that machine without a pto driven seeder tiller is really doing a poor job. If woods is saying it’s an overseeder then it’s not meant for this task. It might be specifically for overseeding existing lawns or grass areas. I would think a lawn treatment company might use this. From my experience professionally seeding new homes lawns this implement will not till the ground enough and we might have to go back multiple times. You can see it throughout the video the soil it’s being tilled enough. It’s doesn’t matter what your seed rate is if half of your seed doesn’t make it to germination depth or is sitting on top of rocks and/or clumps of soil.
How well do you think a seeder like this will work on seeding a hillside that is fairly steep?
I think it will be ok.
I missed the model of seeder it is?
CSS48
How did that seeder do Tim??
Where is Randall and his seeder?
Ha!
You should name it the "Seeder of Lebanon".
I like it!
your seeding inconsistency is due to you not switching the gears at the beginning when the is seeder closed up that much its very inconsistent and the seed is different sizes not feeding the same
I think that is what I said.
Why 11 turns with faster gears and 4 turns with slower. Perhaps you had it backwards in hence the low rate. It seems counter intuitive to me to make more turns for a faster gears set and less turns for slower gears.
Faster gears would rotate the shaft faster…so more turns for the same area covered. Makes perfect sense to me.
@@TractorTimewithTim yes more rotations of the shaft more seed dropped. So if the slow gears turn 100 times in a foot the faster gears turn 400 times in the same foot. Each turn drops seed so the higher gears drop more seed per foot. All you are doing with the hand crank is simulating forward motion. 11 turns makes sense if the handle bypasses the gears which maybe the case I'm not sure how it is setup to be honest was just a thought. Thanks for the great content 👍
@@namrayd1976 yes. Handle directly turns the seed meter shaft as you can see. Gearing is between the ground driven roller and the seed shaft…so not accounted for here.
It seems like they could make a simpler system for calibrating that was more accurate and easier to do. That system they have now is extremely time-consuming and actually not very accurate. Obviously because of the 2 sets of gears it can handle a wide range of seeding rates but answers video demonstrated it's hard to set and very problematic. For the cost of that seeder it would seem like they could do a much better designing a rate system that was easier to adjust and use. A company the deaths of commercially would certainly not put up with that and accuracy!
Uh, how would you propose to do it better. This is by far the best approach I have seen.
They provide a chart giving a suggested setting, then you use this calibration for detail.
I think it is fantastic.
@@TractorTimewithTim take a look at some of the larger seeders designed for commercial use. Some of them even have internal gear sets where you shift the ratio instead of having to change gears like you do on this 1. Yes, they all require calibration but it's certainly much simpler on many of them.
I think this approach is more precise.
In my case, it wasn’t! However, I fully explained the reasons why.
Yes, I wish both sets of gears were on there, and that the chain could easily be switched from slow to fast…that would have ‘fixed’ my main issue.
However, this is pretty good, and I would not expect folks to change from 23lb/a few to 300+ lbs per acre very often.
@@TractorTimewithTim you are certainly correct that radical changes in rate like you discussed are not that common however for people in your situation is much more often than many others. The type of assistance I was referring to still have the calibration like you have to do but with the automatic gear change is much easier to calibrate and takes a lot less time! Overall though it is a nice system and it was a great video!