Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! My V70 was very difficult to drive, no throttle response, excessive smoke & the obd was saying throttle position sensor. I followed your video, initially missed the fuse as it is labelled Mod D’Acc, but it was fuse 8 as you note. The fuse had blown & with a new one the car drove so beautifully I felt I would cry. Really made such a huge positive difference to me. Thank you so much for sharing!
Thank you for your beautifull comment too. But I want to tell you something that you should check: this fuse may blow again. I would check the compressor clutsh as it is protected by the same fuse. This is a stupid design from Volvo to protec different units in one fuse. But it is like it is. On my car the previous owner had a problem with the air conditioning so she removed the compressor clutsh completly and I believe that the clush was blowing that fuse each time when the ac botton is on. Till now I didnt have the time to install a new clutsh but glad that the car drives well.
@@DIYTEA Thank you. I had a seized AC unit and the AC pulley then failed, throwing off the intermediate belt but mercifully not doing any other damage save the tensioner pulley and I replaced the whole tensioner and the intermediate belt too. This fits with your experience and the poor design of protecting two things with the same fuse. I also removed the AC clutch and also disconnected the lead to the AC clutch actuating solenoid. I am in the UK where it rarely gets hot enough for AC and so I may just leave it like this. Having done all of this I had another breakdown when after a 5 mile drive it would not start. The rescue man could find no problems. The throttle by wire came up as moving very smoothly on his obd-2 tester and then he found that the battery was quite weak. This is likely my fault as I often don't drive for several days and the standby current is a little below 1 amp, For each day without a start the battery is losing 24 amp-hrs and with a 95 amp-hr battery that is about 4 days to exhaust it. I have now taken to disconnecting the battery via the negative terminal as I don't need to lock it and a solar trickle charger i bought is not putting enough charge in to compensate for the drain. Often I have found with cars that they have their own specific troubles and with a bit of study one can find ways around them.Thank you for your help!
@@Roberts3305 Do you happen to know what the drainage should be? The patrol that rescued me didn't seem to think 1 am was too bad for this v70 2002, but I would like it a lot less, as it is currently 24 amp hours per day with a 100 amp hour battery that is emptied in 4 days. Thank you for your comment.
@@springwoodcottage4248 Like roberts3305 said, there must be another problem for that quick drainage. You can check this by puting a multimeter in serial to the batterie to read the amount of current been consumed. Do this an hour after switching the engine off and closing the doors of the car (because some modules will continue consuming power for few minutes even when the ignition is off). If you notice some milliamperes on the readings so there must be some module still on or a short circuit. In general the value should not exeed 300mA. To find the guilty system, you need a help of someone who takes a fuse out at a time till you see the current value on the multimeter drops so you know which circuit is conusuming power.
Excellent! My 07 v70 burnt the AC compressor solenoid. After replacement it idled at 1500rpm and very sluggish throttle response. Turns out the fuse #11 was burnt. Thanks for great guidance
Yes I know. I'm very sorry for not posting new videos on my channel. The problem that I'm going through many changes in my private life: new job, new town, relocation etc... I have a lot of raw videos that I have to edit und post. The new video will be ready within the coming two weeks.
@@scarymovie636 d7sconnect the compressor and put a new fuse and check uf it blows or not. If not so the clutch coil is the problem. Could be replaced.
Hi I have the same problem Volvo V70XC, the #8 fuse blows but I replace it and it blows again when I turn the ignition key. Can you tell me why the fuse is blown?
😂 always check fuses and relays before opening your wallet and spending money. We all make mistakes, and it’s a lesson learned for the future. 🤘😎👌 m-E-m
Absolutly! But without having the detailed wiring diagram it is hard to notice that the acceleretor pedal does have a fuse, and not only this, but the same fuse as the air conditioning compressor and other stuff. The table on the fusebox is confusing. The funny part is that the previous owner salt this car because of this problem mainly. She has been told at a workshop that this problem could cost 1000 euros zo solve it!
@@DIYTEA I'm betting they knew it was just a fuse (but what made the fuse blow?) and they were going to charge €1000, and even then try and go for more money? Something that can kick all this off without a warning light or any clue at all is the deterioration of the alternator. This can go bad without showing the "battery light" (on these Volvo p2's) on the dash. Things start to go wrong, and before too long, if not detected, CEM goes bad, and this can also kill the ECU. The main thing is you were methodical and you sorted it out in the end. 👌😎🤘 m-E-m
@@markemarkpsv1 According to the history of the car, the air conditioning compressor clutch was removed because the air conditioning had issues. Based on that I assume that the magnetic clutch was faulty and was blowing the fuse all the time, which is also the same fuse as the gas pedal. Since then the fuse was blown and nobody noticed that.
@@DIYTEA You’ve got to love these 20+ year old Volvo’s. I wouldn’t be without one, and have worked my way up to the next best thing to the V70R. I have a 2003 Volvo V70 T5 2.3 SE+ it has every option possible, it’s an ex main Dealer demonstrator, and really does have every option and then some. Trouble is with the goings on over the last three years, it’s been sat unused (I’ve not been out over this time) and I’m scared to think what is going to be wrong with it? no car likes to be stood, especially these P2’s.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! My V70 was very difficult to drive, no throttle response, excessive smoke & the obd was saying throttle position sensor. I followed your video, initially missed the fuse as it is labelled Mod D’Acc, but it was fuse 8 as you note. The fuse had blown & with a new one the car drove so beautifully I felt I would cry. Really made such a huge positive difference to me. Thank you so much for sharing!
Thank you for your beautifull comment too.
But I want to tell you something that you should check: this fuse may blow again. I would check the compressor clutsh as it is protected by the same fuse. This is a stupid design from Volvo to protec different units in one fuse. But it is like it is.
On my car the previous owner had a problem with the air conditioning so she removed the compressor clutsh completly and I believe that the clush was blowing that fuse each time when the ac botton is on. Till now I didnt have the time to install a new clutsh but glad that the car drives well.
@@DIYTEA Thank you. I had a seized AC unit and the AC pulley then failed, throwing off the intermediate belt but mercifully not doing any other damage save the tensioner pulley and I replaced the whole tensioner and the intermediate belt too. This fits with your experience and the poor design of protecting two things with the same fuse. I also removed the AC clutch and also disconnected the lead to the AC clutch actuating solenoid. I am in the UK where it rarely gets hot enough for AC and so I may just leave it like this. Having done all of this I had another breakdown when after a 5 mile drive it would not start. The rescue man could find no problems. The throttle by wire came up as moving very smoothly on his obd-2 tester and then he found that the battery was quite weak. This is likely my fault as I often don't drive for several days and the standby current is a little below 1 amp, For each day without a start the battery is losing 24 amp-hrs and with a 95 amp-hr battery that is about 4 days to exhaust it. I have now taken to disconnecting the battery via the negative terminal as I don't need to lock it and a solar trickle charger i bought is not putting enough charge in to compensate for the drain. Often I have found with cars that they have their own specific troubles and with a bit of study one can find ways around them.Thank you for your help!
@@springwoodcottage4248 with this big drainage there must be some wire problems for sure.
@@Roberts3305 Do you happen to know what the drainage should be? The patrol that rescued me didn't seem to think 1 am was too bad for this v70 2002, but I would like it a lot less, as it is currently 24 amp hours per day with a 100 amp hour battery that is emptied in 4 days. Thank you for your comment.
@@springwoodcottage4248
Like roberts3305 said, there must be another problem for that quick drainage. You can check this by puting a multimeter in serial to the batterie to read the amount of current been consumed. Do this an hour after switching the engine off and closing the doors of the car (because some modules will continue consuming power for few minutes even when the ignition is off). If you notice some milliamperes on the readings so there must be some module still on or a short circuit. In general the value should not exeed 300mA.
To find the guilty system, you need a help of someone who takes a fuse out at a time till you see the current value on the multimeter drops so you know which circuit is conusuming power.
Excellent! My 07 v70 burnt the AC compressor solenoid. After replacement it idled at 1500rpm and very sluggish throttle response. Turns out the fuse #11 was burnt. Thanks for great guidance
volvo v70. same codes.
fuse 8 again, thanks for the heads up.
I'm going to have to check the fuse in my S60r! The lights flickered at the same time the same codes you have came up.
So, its been some months. Will there be update videos? I like this series so far and I like volvos from that era. Please continue!
Yes I know. I'm very sorry for not posting new videos on my channel. The problem that I'm going through many changes in my private life: new job, new town, relocation etc... I have a lot of raw videos that I have to edit und post. The new video will be ready within the coming two weeks.
I have same problem but with v50but i cant find a fuze? Can yall help
Thank you. You saved my time!
What device do you use to read the engine codes?
In the video it was a Autel MaxiDiag MD806 Pro.
Immediately when I put in a new fuse it blows.. Any suggestions?
Check the clutch of the compressor.
@@DIYTEA Okay thanks, how do I test it?
@@scarymovie636 d7sconnect the compressor and put a new fuse and check uf it blows or not. If not so the clutch coil is the problem. Could be replaced.
@@DIYTEA Will try, thanks!
Hi I have the same problem Volvo V70XC, the #8 fuse blows but I replace it and it blows again when I turn the ignition key. Can you tell me why the fuse is blown?
Check the other modules secured with the same fuse like the ait conditioning compressor clutch. Most likely that coil goes bad and blows the fuse.
😂 always check fuses and relays before opening your wallet and spending money. We all make mistakes, and it’s a lesson learned for the future. 🤘😎👌 m-E-m
Absolutly! But without having the detailed wiring diagram it is hard to notice that the acceleretor pedal does have a fuse, and not only this, but the same fuse as the air conditioning compressor and other stuff. The table on the fusebox is confusing.
The funny part is that the previous owner salt this car because of this problem mainly. She has been told at a workshop that this problem could cost 1000 euros zo solve it!
@@DIYTEA I'm betting they knew it was just a fuse (but what made the fuse blow?) and they were going to charge €1000, and even then try and go for more money?
Something that can kick all this off without a warning light or any clue at all is the deterioration of the alternator. This can go bad without showing the "battery light" (on these Volvo p2's) on the dash. Things start to go wrong, and before too long, if not detected, CEM goes bad, and this can also kill the ECU. The main thing is you were methodical and you sorted it out in the end. 👌😎🤘 m-E-m
@@markemarkpsv1
According to the history of the car, the air conditioning compressor clutch was removed because the air conditioning had issues. Based on that I assume that the magnetic clutch was faulty and was blowing the fuse all the time, which is also the same fuse as the gas pedal. Since then the fuse was blown and nobody noticed that.
@@DIYTEA You’ve got to love these 20+ year old Volvo’s. I wouldn’t be without one, and have worked my way up to the next best thing to the V70R. I have a 2003 Volvo V70 T5 2.3 SE+ it has every option possible, it’s an ex main Dealer demonstrator, and really does have every option and then some. Trouble is with the goings on over the last three years, it’s been sat unused (I’ve not been out over this time) and I’m scared to think what is going to be wrong with it? no car likes to be stood, especially these P2’s.
Truth! I was ready to spend money on a new pedal, it's 300 dollars. All because of a 50 cent fuse.
Great video 👍
THANKS that same FUSE was my problem but I watched the video after aborting a family traveling..... such a pity but thanks anyway.
Cheers. 👍
Sweet good job.