BEST DIY Honda Accord 2.2L 2.3L F22 F23 Timing Belt Replacement w/Water Pump - Bundys Garage
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Honda Acura Detailed Step-By-Step Instructions on Replacement for the 2.2L / 2.3L Timing Belt. F22 / F23 Honda Acura Motors. With Balancer Belt and Shaft as well as replacing the water pump.
F22 / F23 Instruction Sheet with Torque Specs:
drive.google.c...
Eric the Car Guys Video on the F Series Honda Engine:
• 1990-2002 Honda F Seri...
Powerbuilt 50MM Crankshaft Pulley Tool:
www.amazon.com/...
BriansMobile Heating Up Crankshaft Pulley Bolt:
• How to remove that stu...
Genius 0 Offset Long Wrenches:
www.amazon.com/...
Vehicle List for F22 / F23 Honda Acura
2.3L F23
1997 Acura CL 2.3L
1998 Acura CL 2.3L
1999 Acura CL 2.3L
1994 Honda Accord 2.3L
1995 Honda Accord 2.3L
1996 Honda Accord 2.3L
1997 Honda Accord 2.3L
1998 Honda Accord 2.3L
1999 Honda Accord 2.3L
2000 Honda Accord 2.3L
2001 Honda Accord 2.3L
2002 Honda Accord 2.3L
1998 Honda Odyssey 2.3L
1998 Isuzu Oasis 2.3L
1999 Isuzu Oasis 2.3L
2.2L F22 Engine
1990 Honda Accord 2.2L
1991 Honda Accord 2.2L
1992 Honda Accord 2.2L
1993 Honda Accord 2.2L
1994 Honda Accord 2.2L
1995 Honda Accord 2.2L
1996 Honda Accord 2.2L
1997 Honda Accord 2.2L
1998 Honda Accord 2.2L
1995 Honda Odyssey 2.2L
1996 Honda Odyssey 2.2L
1997 Honda Odyssey 2.2L
1992 Honda Prelude 2.2L
1993 Honda Prelude 2.2L
1994 Honda Prelude 2.2L
1995 Honda Prelude 2.2L
1996 Honda Prelude 2.2L
1996 Isuzu Oasis 2.2L
1997 Isuzu Oasis 2.2L
DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER - DISCLAIMER
Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. BundysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. BundysGarage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BundysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BundysGarage.
Longest thing I've ever watched on RUclips that wasn't a documentary! Very thorough. Thanks man. Love those wrenches, gotta get me some!
If all repair videos were like this the world would be a better place.
Yay! He used a laser pointer. So very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for all your help, with out your video I could never have the balls to try to do this. Your video inspired me to do it and I got the job done. Thank you.
You are welcome!
At 1:27:25, the reason it tells you to turn the crank shaft pulley so the cam shaft pulley moves 3 teeth is to take up the slack between the crank pulley and cam pulley along the left side. By turning the cam pulley 3 teeth you increased the slack between the crank and cam pulleys. You could see the slack of the belt along the left side as you did it. There should be no slack. By turning the crank, not only do you take up the slack from the belt, but you end up with the slack on the right going to the tensioner so it can do its job-give it tension.
The wording on the service manual is confusing. You're correct though. You rotate the crank enough to move the cam 3 teeth, tightening the slack opposite of the tensioner.
As soon as I saw that bolt pop from the flame thrower... I liked the video... so satisfying hahaha
The amount of detail shown is this video is very helpful. Thank you Bundy!
Kris glad it helped you out and thanks for watching.
I really enjoy your sense of humor, which teaches me something about work ethic as well. Thanks a lot!
This is the best one i watched. No power tools and you showed us how the spring is oriented.
nice trick with the white out!
I can honestly say this is the best DIY article I have seen and was very helpful on doing my Accord which I finished yesterday. Only comment is I have concerns marking the timing belt as a method to keep from turning the engine to insure no valve/piston interference.
Two years ago I was working on a Subaru Forester which comes with these marks from the factory. (very helpful) As this particular car had a head gasket problem I sent the heads to a machine shop to have the valve faces recut and head surface machined. I reinstalled and was going through the rotation process when I hit a "hard stop." I puzzled over this a bit then realized I needed to adjust the valves due to the new clearances from machining, which left valves open at TDC, causing interference.
I would also like to agree that loosening the crankshaft bolt is a good first step, and that yes it is as much of a pain as shown in the video. Cheater pipes are truly your friend for this, and fortunately I didn't have to resort to heat. The need for a 17mm impact socket for the engine mount was quite accurate as well.
Thank you again for posting such a complete video, and look forward to seeing your work in the future.
Chris glad it helped you out. Stay frosty.
Who can't like this guy. Thanks for sharing your Knowledge :)
+James Doyle thx
Also all these guys on here don’t tell you in detail about the timing and how to truly put #1 at Center. Thank you man. You sir are saving lives and wallets.
What's there 4 chances at getting it right?
First off, great tutorial! That crankshaft pulley bolt is a dagum bee sting! But I actually had to take 4 stabs at this before I got it right... ugh. The harmonic balancer (balancer shaft) was the culprit. What I learned is that there's a 12 o'clock groove and a 5 o'clock line. However, you also have to make sure the screw driver goes all the way in at this position, which will only happen every ~3rd rotation. From what I can tell, the gear and the shaft rotate at a different ratio, or at least only align at balance every so many turns... Tricky! When the screw driver is fully inserted and the marks are aligned, the gear will only move freely about 3-5 degrees and be caught rather than push the screw driver out. (basically when you turn the gear the screw driver "stops it" rather than being pushed out) Gotta make sure you do this, especially if your timing belt was off to begin with, or your foolish like me and don't make 10 marks per belt. However, at this point I could probably knock out an Accord timing belt out in a quarter the time it took the first go round.
Cheers!
I noticed that you turned the cam bolt to adjust the timing belt tension. As a caution, you should always use the crank bolt to adjust the timing belt tension turning it counterclockwise. This keeps the belt in tension. Notice in the video when you turn the cam pulley bolt counterclockwise it slacks the belt on what is the tension side when running. It is a good video other than that.
tradersnotion I might need ur advice on some things, I'm getting ready to do timing belt on 2006 Accord 5speed manual 4cy, also water pump
thats a timing chain not belt
Great video! This deserves so many more likes than it has for the time it has been out. I know a lot of effort went into making a video of the job rather thad just doing it the job You are appreciated!
🙏
Well, about to tackle this job on my 1996 Honda Accord 2.2Vtec, to be 100% honest this will be the first actual "big job" for me, also I have Oil leaks to find/fix while I'm in there. I'll be using this vid for reference for sure, good to know about the Crank Shaft Pulley Bolt is a PIA, lookin forward to it.
How did it go?
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. It was no small effort on your part. I appreciated your comment about safety and not trusting a floor jack. I would add that the front of the vehicle has a jacking point called out in the manual. Using the front lift point with the floor jack, one can place the jack stand where you are lifting the vehicle with the floor jack in this video. Again, great video, thank you.
Seth Smith Seth glad it helped you out and thanks for the tip.
Came here for 53:58 -- I lost the top right bolt, but now at least I know its same length as the top left bolt, BUNDY THANK YOU!!!
Your welcome
I found my missing top right bolt, I think.. it’s an eighth of an inch longer than the top left bolt, But otherwise identical. Do you think I have the right bolt?
Great instruction, best I seen 👏! To the DIY'ers make your job easier and purchase a 1/2" cordless impact gun, harmonic balancer socket & crankshaft pulley wrench.
I'm glad you put that text in the video about you should have used your impact,
I just did one this morning on a 90 Accord and we hit it with the impact it came off like nothing and didn't even rotate the engine 1 degree.
thanks for the video and the detail I appreciate it not done with the job yet we had to close up early got to remove and replace the water pump and put it back together in the morning
I have done alit of timing jobs mostly Subaru. This was still useful for me before I jumped in on this Accord I have in my shop thanks for a comprehensive video. Good job
I appreciate you showing us the struggle.
Thank you sir! Helped me out at the shop had some troubles with the timing tensioner
thx a million...my old odyssey is due for a belt change...has been a big help!
Glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching and if you can please subscribe.
+BundysGarage I need a list of all tools used if u can help me I need to replace the water pump in my 2.3 liter VTEC 98 Honda accord
This video helped me do the timing belt as part of replacing the head gasket after my 99 accord lx overheated. Thanks for the effort to video and explain this job.
when you pulled off the cover for the crank case and showed us what each sprocket was for and the last one got me laughing. "Not sure what that is" lol Best DIY Ever. This does help me though because i literally just got a 99 honda accord 4cyl manual. its my first modern old car. I like driving my older classic model chevy c10 but im swapping that engine right now with another 350 sbc only im putting twin turbos on it. Thanks for the vid though. Much Appreciated. :)
+Antony Bonilla funny how, funny like a clown, I amuse you
Not like a clown. god i hate clowns. But funny as in i wouldnt know what that thing was for either lol
Thank you you help me get through my timing belt job thank you very much.....
Glad to help
Excellent instructional video. Now I'm ready to tackle the job!
Robert Papps Glad it helped you out.
I always use a wire to pull up on the tensioner. Use a breaker bar against the ground to hold the crank bolt and turn the cam gear bolt while pulling the wire. As long as you have a lockbolt almost finger tight on the tensioner, as soon as you put rotation force on the cam bolt while pulling up on that wire strung in the tensioner, the timing belt will tension up exactly what you need and you can tighten that lockbolt. Quick, easy, and uncomplicated.
Nice video..... Found it after did this job 3x....in one day.....i had the wrong belt......twice......
using a super long pole will defiantly get that of with virtually no force. great job!
this video is spot on. I fixed my Acura no problem thanks to this .
+richard clasen Richard glad it helped you out.
Best instructional video on RUclips. Everything is clear and easy to understand step by step. Thank you
Great video really appreciated the very detailed approach, the tips and your presentation. Went through the whole job as per video and it worked out great.... Thanks...
Thank you so much for the video God bless you 🙏
On the most parts, your video is quite good. However, I would draw attention to a few points.
1). When setting timing belt tension, The engine must not be rotated by the camshaft bolt. Doing so loosens the timing belt. The belt must be installed in such manner as to be naturally tight on the run down from camshaft pulley to the crankshaft pulley. The tensioner only tensions the belt after the crankshaft pulley, not before it.
2). The rear balancer shaft timing. Due to the design of the rear shaft, the 6 x 100 mm locking bolt, marked at 74 mm from the end, can only be fully inserted in the inspection hole (up to the mark) every 3 rotations of the balancer shaft gear, regardless of the timing marks on the gear and case being correctly set.
3). The temporary locking bolt for timing belt tensioner. This bolt is utilized for 2 reasons. it is intended for locking the tensioner assembly in place during assembly to prevent the tensioner being dislodged from the locking pin. Additionally, to prevent loosening of timing belt while pre-tension for the balancer shaft belt is being set. The temporary bolt MUST be removed prior to final belt tensioning. Leaving it in place will prevent the timing belt from being correctly tensioned and will result in belt failure.
You did remove it, well done. During my career as builder of Honda engines, I have on several occasions come across engines with this bolt in place. On every occasion, the timing belt has failed.
4). The left upper cover securing bolt. This special 6 mm bolt screws into a metal ferrule built into the lower cover. The 2 main reasons for failure to remove the bolt without ruining the upper cover is over tightening the bolt, as well as lack of use of Never seize or a similar non-drying lubricant.
5). A short note on oil seals. Both the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals are prone to failure on Honda engines. While the timing belts are replaced, it makes sense to replace both, as doing it as a separate job, requires disassembly of the belts.
My personal view of your video. Well done (but don't use a screwdriver as the locking tool for the rear balancer shaft). Sorry for the long reply. Cheers from Indonesia.
Totally agree about replacing the oil seals while you are in there. I would also do the front balancer seal as well. And since you have to take the valve (tappet) cover off might as well do those seals as well. With proper tools it is not difficult nor is it expensive.
Have to disagree with point 4 the left upper cover bolt. Unless you were referring to the factory being at fault for over-tightening and/or lack of never-seize. I have seen this exact problem where the bolt seized to the ferrule and the prior assembly was done at the factory. I have been able to epoxy bond the ferrule back into the cracked plastic and the cover still is serviceable.
@olli makkonen very old post and video but I'm rebuilding the same engine and having issues with my timing. When the video shows the timing cranking, you can see how it flops and if not tensioned from cam to crank. Mine is doing exactly the same. How do you get it tension throughout while the engine is spinning? I would assume that it should stay tensioned all the time right?
Thanks for this. Super nice job!
Very in depth video! I am about to do this on my 98 accord. This will DEF be my go to video to help me change all this out.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video helped you out.
great video just did my timing belt everything works great
the only reason I watch this video is to know how to tension the timing belt properly and I got lost on that as same bundys nice watch dude.
Already Loving The Video 10 seconds In... This individual wearing Khaki shorts, long socks and dirty sneakers.
dude beter than lincolin tec keep up the great work !
Hi man thanks for video but if you want to adjust timing finally donot tairn spracket by the camshaft wheel
Great video. I'll definitely refer to it when I change the timing belt. Thanks!!!
And yes there is a special socket used to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Heavy enforced 19mm 1/2 in impact socket. Use a impact. "remove all splash shields and covers and motor mounts. And yes use the tool to lock the crankshaft pulley.
Great video. Please make changing the TB for Honda / Acura B series engines too .
Well done, great video!
Great video. 1 thing I dont like is the suggestion to use the jack point. That point works great with the scissor jack but can easily bend if the car shifts any with a floor jack. I have seen it happen first hand. Instead much better to use any solid frame area or tow hooks and then use a jack stand under the jack point.
BoogieDownProduction dude i couldnt agree more. And i seen lots of pros on utube saying use a hydraulic jack there. It is only meant for the scissor jack that has the correct notch in it. Then when it bends the seam it cracks the paint and it becomes a rust magnet.
Thanks for sharing your videos with us , very helpful ,very well explained 👍👍👍👍👍👍😇😇😇
Best diy.. very helpful. thank you
You are welcome.
El video es muy exelente especialmente la distancia y claridad de la camara,mis 2 accord 99 y 02 nesecitan the timen belt,pero todavia no me atrevo,nesecito ver varias veces el video de paso el mas nitido que he visto.God bless you.
Hope this helps some people get the timing belt replaced on the F22 and F23 Honda engine.
so u have a list of all tools used I need it for my 2.3 liter VTEC Honda accord??
+Damian Cheruk I don't but you will need 1/4, 3/8 ratchets, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, sockets and wrenches to use. As well as extensions for both 1/4 and 3/8. But the most important tool you need is the tool used to hold the Honda crankshaft pulley. Cause if you don't get that off, your dead in the water. If this is your first DIY repair, don't let this job be your first, this is not for a novice.
+BundysGarage thank you very much I appreciate it
That crank bolt is really the worst part of the job once you've done it before. My first one I got lucky with but man they get stuck. Good job.
Yep they can be a real PITA!
There is a socket 19 mm it is LISLE 77080 and is designed so that it has less movement inside the socket to crack these bolts off , designed for these hondas
Thanks very useful AL BUNDY rocks
Fatboy Christian No Problem, Bundy.
to accommodate the marks so that you can turn the pulley anywhere
Thank you for this !!
Well I was going to try and do this myself but after watching this video I see it's a bit more work and a few tools I don't own (yet). Other issue I live at an apartment complex lol. This seems like it would be hell in Florida sun. But otherwise a great diy video :) keep em coming. Gonna spend the dreeded $700 at the shop.
lisle makes a socket now that helps take these damn crank bolts off with ease now with just an impact. worth the money has paid for itself first belt i did with it.
What kind of air compressor and gun do you have? What PSI was it operating at? 1/2 or 1 inch gun?
gun is ingersoll rand 2135qtimax. 1/2 inch drive. shop air is probably between 120-130 psi, not sure we have three compressors and 30 techs where i work. all i know is the gun wouldn't remove the bolt with a short snap on socket. i bought a 300+ dollar nitrocat 1250 and that only worked half the time. since i bought the socket for like 40 bucks the ingersoll works fine and i don't even use the other gun.
This is why you always have an impact gun handy
Very good ..thank you ..
Hope it helps you out.
BELT TO LOOSE IT WILL JUMP SHORTLY ,HOW YOU KNOW IS TO TWIST WITH THUMB AND INDEX FINGER BELT 1/4 TO1/2 SIDE WAYS WITH SOME RESISTANCE
Glad to see its not just me
I got the same streamlight flashlight
Good stuff thanks dude!
I wonder how a jack would have worked with taking the 19mm bolt off?
Doing mine right along with urs thx u for sharing
is very confusing on the timing belt tension part . 1:27:19 you say
" rotate the crankshaft counterclock wise three theet on the camshaft pulley"
but you did it wrong ! you put your wrench on the camshaft , it says to turn on the Crankshaft till the cam moves three theet. what you did actually put the tension on the tenssioner side wich i believe is dead wrong , the point of that procedure is to take the slack off on the part were the belt runs diagonally (between cam and crank on the left side to be more clear) I believe the tensioning part of this is wrong can someone help please.
The instructions from Honda are not clear. Basically when setting tension on this timing belt. Use your best judgement. In the video I had too much slack because of the Honda procedure. After I shot the video I had to go back in there and put more tension on the belt. This was done by "feel", not rotating the engine to set tension. Do the same as well. There needs to be a little bit of tension on the belt but not so much that it binds up. I know that sounds vague but you will see when you get to that point. Use your best judgement when setting the tension but it needs to be more than what I did in the video.
+BundysGarage You didn't follow the Honda procedure (please reread what the previous commenter said). That's why you got the results you did. You need to tension the timing belt by turning the crankshaft not the camshaft. The Honda procedure (set initial tension by loosening and retightening adjusting nut, rotate CRANKSHAFT 5 to 6 times to set belt, loosen adjusting nut, rotate CRANKSHAFT until CAMSHAFT advances 3 teeth, tighten adjusting nut) works exactly as advertised.
+estrelladelnorte1308 You're 100% correct. The tensioning procedure MUST be done by rotating the crankshaft. If you follow the Honda procedure exactly (always rotating the crankshaft) and your tensioners and springs are in good shape, the timing belt gets tensioned properly.
BundysGarage why you did not get tension is you did the correct tension idea except you are supposed to tension the belts when both timing and balancer belt is on , the tensioner tensions both belts at the sane time
Is there supposed to be no slack on the timing belt anywhere are you rotate? I get the timing belt slap through rotation.
Great vid!!l
I'm under the car, Jimmy's on top with a Flashlight ... the car is Swaying on the One Jack ! I got a broken Bolt, Stripped Threads & Oil leaking in My Face !
Hey nice video.Back at 1hr.28s the tension was released on the wrong side of the belt.It should be loose on the tensioner side after pulling the camshaft CLOCKWISE as you look at it with the spring tensioner taking up the slack then locked up.Just an observation.Means the timing belt is too loose but will still run ok for now!Good talk through though.From too long Mechanic:)
+Gerard Byrnes the spring is not meant to put tension on the belt when replacing. You have to put tension on manually on the timing belt for it to sit correctly.
BundysGarage Um no, the spring is there for tension. You're supposed to TURN THE CRANK when setting tension. Have you not watched your video? Look at what the belt is doing when you're turning the crank. THINK about what the belt would do in that situation had you TURNED THE CRANK three CAM teeth. It would move the slack to the...tensioner!!! At which point the spring "that does nothing" would tension your belt.
Don't you need to pull that tensioner bolt for the cam belt before you tighten the adjuster nut?
Hi, possibly your 3 teeth tension er did not work because you did not rotate the engine as per manual 4-6 turns for the timing belt before you tighten the tension-er nut. Thanks.
That extension was doing some twisting...
I like.
That bolt will loosen up by hitting it with a hammer several times and spray with wd40 and wait 15 minutes.no need for dangerous torch that might catch on fire if you have leaking fuel lines and injectors.
It’s not dangerous if you know what you are doing. And why would you have a active fuel leak. If you have a fuel leak you should be worrying about that and not the timing belt.
Very Nice video and detailed explanations. I will be replacing the timing belt and water pump on my 2002 Honda Accord SE this coming summer 2016. It has 135000 Miles and was never replaced before. Is this your first time belt replacement on a sixth generation Honda? and do you have videos on replacing the one on Toyota Camry 1996-2000?
I did like the video, I subscribed and hit the thumb up for it.
Thx. a lot.
Thanks for watching. I would change that belt and WP sooner than later. Both miles and years, but more so on years. If that belt goes or it jumps timing it will cost you more than a timing belt component kit. Check out rockauto.com for great pricing. I have always had great luck with them and their parts. Thx for the sub.
I use a 6' hollow pipe
REmove the crank shaft bolt, take me less n 40 secounds,,,,,,, jajaja with the right tool. and smart way
Thank you for the DIY. The fact you used hand tools was great, because like you said, not everyone has the luxury of air tools. Shows that it can be done with hand tools. Not sure if you mentioned it, but what brand of sockets do you use? Just curious.Thanks again! I don't need to do this job as of yet, but I like to watch all kinds of videos that will be useful in the future. I would like to inspect my timing belt though, and this works...But after watching whats involved, I might want to just replace it anyway after getting this far. Not sure yet... I'll stop rambling now and just finish watching....
+Dano C. It's really hard to check the condition of a timing belt. It's best to replace the timing belt you will pay more to replace an engine if the belt breaks than a timing belt. The sockets I used were MAC I believe.
Thank you, I figured the sockets were of great quality... What I meant about the timing belt, by checking the pt numbers you can sometimes tell if it is the OEM belt (usually means never replaced), and if the pt numbers are really clear that usually tells you the belt hasn't been on there for say 80,000 mi., plus just see the condition of the teeth. like I mentioned though, if I got that far I might as well just replace it. Thank you.
I really lack that
Your final tension on the timing belt was way too loose. You can make it tighter the same way you did the oil pump.
yes
Think I hear that timing belt rattling at the end
will this be the same procedure for a 94 honda accord? I wanna know before I watch for 2 hours
I noticed that you didn't put the bolt back in the timing belt tensioner arm,and that timing belt looks very loose it needs to be tighten up
Correct about the belt not being tightened enough. Not correct about the bolt. It's meant to be a temporary hold while adjusting tention, and to me removed later. The main 14mm adjustment bolt clamps the bearings in place. If you listen closely, he says this, and he indicates the bolt he is using is actually a timing cover bolt.
The timing belt and the balance shaft tensions are the same thing you are supposed to tighten the tension with the balancer shaft belt on you then rotate anticlockwise the teeth 3 teeths to tension belt , then secure the bolt to 33 foot pounds or 44.74 NM , you then rotate the engine one full rotation from top dead centre to top dead centre to check your work as is the case with all cars . in fact you can set tension at any time without even removing the timing belt covers, thats where you went wrong with tensioning the belts both of them are tensioned with both belts on car in one action, also removing the tensioner you did not do that properly why it was tight to remove was this , you are supposed to tighten that bolt which relieves the tension on the tensioner of which you then undo the smaller bolt retaining it then removing that bolt is easy , a lot of you guys actually need to read up more on these jobs
wrong! towards the end to tighten belt dont use cam bolt to turn engine that puts slack on the wrong side of the belt, turn it with CRANK bolt that puts tension on right side of belt and lets the tensioners take out the slack
+james fank thanks for the tip
@@bundysgarage THank you for the video (Surprised you did not have air?? Anyway, don't feel bad, I learned the hard way not to turn the engine with the cam bolt as I snapped the bolt head off on my 1.6 CRX D series. Thanks GAWD I was able to grab what was left with a pair of wire cutters and spin the newly formed all thread out and replace it with a new bolt.... FEEEEEEW!! Could have sucked!!!
Is it necessary to take out the spark plugs or could I leave them in when replacing the timing belt
Would you recommend replacing oil pump when doing water pump and timing belt on a 98 2.3l Honda Odyssey
have you ever done a timing belt, I have been doing timing belts for many years from the factory there is always a 10mm bolt to hold down the tensioner and the main bolt,I was looking up videos for the timing marks do your research before speculating
starfire rider are you referring to the 10 mm bolt used temporarily to help set up the tensioner components but then it is removed afterward?
1:29:09 what is happening here tensioning the belt u turn the screw and it magically snaps in place
Damn, here I am a third time. But that alternator is excessive. 🤣 No bueno
1:26:00 whenever I get everything lined up and go to put the top of the belt on, it shifts the bottom of the motor out of alignment, how did you keep it from moving? In the video it doesn't look like you did anything different than what I did but somehow your motor didn't move at all, any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm stuck, also what timing mark do you use through the peephole on the motor above the block identifier plate
Try getting another person to help you and holding the belt in place while you put it on the top.
@bundysgarage I ended up getting the belt put on, the timing is now in sync, turns out the my valves were also horrendously out of adjustment, the exhaust valves on cylinder number 4 were two shims out of spec, it sounds a lot better but still has some louder than I'm comfortable with ticking, I'm on a honda group and there's a guy that says he's found the magic method to fixing it completely, fingers crossed 🤞
The longer the extension, the less leverage/torque you have. Meaning without the extension you had higher chance of getting it loose.
You know anything about the H series vtec head on a F series non vtec?
Sorry I don’t
This is why i diy.
I love the video, but would it be more complete with the seals replaced as well?
I did not change the seals out because they were not leaking but yes it would of been more complete if you do the seals as well.
BundysGarage have
Helps me some but i note you are using a guide and i don't but i must note that you have left the belt too loose.
What are the line up marks. Procedure?. F22b also are these interference engines?
Great video.
Do you think getting new bearing springs would've helped with the belt tension?
+Jorge Romero Negative, the springs are not super strong, they almost feel like a place holder. To set the correct tension you need to use your hands (I know it's not scientific) and "feel" for the correct tension on the belt. Not too tight and not too loose, just right.
Nice video, How long did it really take to do a complete job???Thanks!
2 days
@@bundysgarage Hi, possibly your 3 teeth counter clock wise tension did not work because you did not rotate the engine as per manual 4-6 turns for the timing and balance belt with the bottom cover on before you tighten the tension-er nut down. You were reading what the manual said to do, but you did not follow the instructions as per the manual. Thanks.