How To Rewire A Mower- Simply
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2017
- We did away with the factory rat's nest in Fugazi, and re-wired it simply. Pushbutton and toggle switch setup. Nothing fancy, no safety switches or interlocks. Good setup for any custom, offroad, or mud mower. You do NOT need the QPST switch that I used, a normal DPST toggle switch will work here.
*Please note that removal of safety switches results in a machine that will start in any gear, with the operator on or off the vehicle. Govern yourself accordingly.
Wrench, Wheel, Wreck, Repeat!
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My first car, 1970 Nova had this very set-up. I'll never forget the look on the state troopers' face at my first safety check. Great video.
Hey- If it worked, it worked!
Excellent presentation! TY I'm heading out now to gleefully rip wires and switches out of two mowers that were recently submerged in flood waters. Great info.... thanks again!
Thanks Doc, This vid is just what I needed _ I'm right in the middle of putting a Kohler Magnum 18 off of a Sears Craftsman, (with its harness) onto my 1977 Jacobsen 110 lawn tractor. Just looking for ideas to neaten up the wiring and this video nailed it.
Excellent! Since your M18 (most likely) has a regulated charging system, just grab the middle wire off the regulator.
Thanks for a very clear explanation of the basics - and how to fix my wiring without buying a lot of expensive factory parts. In fact, I think I already have everything that's needed in my parts and "spare parts" boxes... let's see how this goes...
nice video that helped me out a lot I been trying to rewire my mud mower for 2 months and I like the paint job
Thanks for this. I am putting together a bit of a Frankenstein tractor and have to do the wiring from scratch. This video lays out exactly what I have to do. Awesome!
Done... everything worked out perfectly. Got it going. Now to fix the other stuff!
Thank you for making this simple! I don't need all that tangled spaghetti that came with my not yet working mower! I loved your flame thrower heat shrink insulation job!
Fugazi looks sweet! I really like what you did here!
Very nice job on the wiring.
good video doc I do mine a little different but good to learn from you my next will be like your and that very soon!👍
Thanks for that. I've been looking for this type of video for awhile. I finally understand wiring
Paint looks great to me good job !!!!
looks alot better with fresh paint👍 yea ive had to rewire just about all my tractors, all been hacked up. bypassed all saftey stuff.
thanks doc you did a great job on the wiring
Finally got my parts in . So I rewired my Tractor Simply ! Thanks Doc it works great & it's all I need ! Speaking of Fugazi . How is she ? Haven't seen her in a while and she is a personal favorite of mine ! Thanks for the video .
I have a question about the charging wires every time I try to wire them up they make the battery arc whenever I try to hook the negative and positive to the battery it's a 2005 17.5 Briggs and Stratton intek and it's already wired like yours
Wiring is so simple on a riding lawn mower. ALL of mine got Led Fog spot lights on em. red and blue front and rear flashing lights ~ for the dust or fog. ect. next to the road so i'am seen. cigarette lighters. lighted switches ect. Reason i do a lot of mowing during the night, ITS a lot cooler. Another must have is a hitch on em too
Paint looks really good
fugazi is lookin good doc!!
Looks good Doc! Good video! Its gonna be °58f here tomorrow. Were going to take the race mowers out in the mud and see what happens. It's been raining like crazy here in Ohio so its gonna be pretty messy. It should be fun.
Thanks im going to try and do the same, im working from the ground up but still want to use the key on my mower.
you can gedt completely insulated push on crimp terminals that will fit the fuses and save the use of tape, which can be messy...
I had an electrical nightmare with mine. Done it just like you, starts runs and charges battery, thanks a million. I hate paying people to do anything.
Nice work....Need ya to be my neighbor from now on....
Doc. At 40 miles an hour, no one will notice a few paint flaws. LoL Looks good from The USA Central Indiana
So you don't need a fuse for the charge wire that goes to solenoid ?
Think I am gone do this on my mower have tons of electrical problems thanks for the video
Do you have a part number for that switch? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
my god that switch snaps HARD!
trying to rewire a mower as the key switch the previous owner put in isn't right for it and it only operates the starter circuit. I ran a switched circuit to the fuel solenoid so it can now start and run and shut off. Is there any reason to also run another switch to ground out the ignition coil?
good job man nice work
Hey Doc... I need to rewire my zero turn... new Kawasaki 17hp no starter (on pull rope) I only want a push button switch to kill... and have my electric clutch... don't want anything else... and no safety switches either...
Thx. Joe
I have a 2013 toro zero turn want stay running replaced safety switches runs and dies if I keep going up and down on safety switch it stays running
somthing so satisfying about rewiring the way it should have been in the first place 😀
+patthesoundguy - Our John Deere 70 is Simple like that. But today.... Safety Safety Safety, gotta go first, LOL
What gauge wire did you use when On the switches and the push start button
Hi Doc, I watched this video with interest. I am not sure when you made it and hopefully you can help. I have an old rover rancher that has a b&s 15.5 hp motor and would like to re-wire as you have done. Any chance of a wiring diagram that would include the terminals on the back of the toggle switch( I'm certainly no auto spark) as this is the only video I have come across that shows the red wire from stator but I could not clearly see where you connected that to. Good video and cerainly worth watching
Regards John
Good Job ! from Missouri
made it very simple thanks
so bascically both wires go from teh abttery to the solenoind then to the starter?
nice job Doc.
Can you tell me where I can get the push button and the toggle switch you used ( model numbers too so I can purchase the same ones). Thanks!
Ebay has all the stuff you need.
GREAT vid
Hey nice video where did you run the red wire too from the voltage regulator I’m not seeing that near the end and where do the twin yellow wires go from the regulator thanks so much
Diagram at 10:46 in the video. The two wires from engine to regulator would be the yellows from the alternator stator. The single wire going out from the regulator would be the red charging wire.
@@DocSprocket ok thanks this all going down on Saturday haha thanks for making this video and for the clarification I thought I watched it twice no might have been interrupted thanks again nice work💥
I been trying to wire mine for ever can’t figure it out
Thanks for the video, from someone who needed it 6 years after it was made, to fix my MTD lawn tractor. Did you end up doing a video for the L.E.D. Lights?
I sure did! Have a look at my Fugazi playlist.
Wow you make that look so simple. I'm not good at doing anything like that. I'll be rewiring my 75 Jacobsen Homelite LT10 lawn tractor. That looks like all new wires you got going on there. Have you had any problems with that setup? Where did you get all the wiring? What's the difference between the wires with the different colors.
Reeses Mill Off-Road Adventures It is new wire, I buy it by the roll. Recycling old wire is a recipe for problems. Color doesn't matter as long as you can keep track of what's what.
Sprocket's Garage I kind of thought it was new look. Does the different color wire mean different gauge? Also it's her way to wire it up without a fuse?
Reeses Mill, the colour of the insulation has nothing to do with the wire size, it just helps identify a particular circuit, like starting can be all red, then lights can be white, kill circuit yellow, etc. Wire gauge is determined by the amount of current a circuit draws and length of run. In a mower, run length is not an issue, but for example, 30W LED light draws 2.5A at 12V (look up Ohms law), your starter solenoid will draw about 2A but your starter motor draws upward of 60A but only for a short time, thats why the wires from the battery, through the solenoid and to the starter are so much thicker (8 gauge I think, I work in square mm). The rest of your wiring can be 2.5 mm2, you can look up the gauge. Don't go smaller, you don't want an electrical fire under the hood, gas and fire dont go to well together in that situation!
Hi good video very easy to follow along, not to get away from your wiring but, what kind of paint do you use? That is awesome what you have done with the paint scene, you can't miss that tractor coming down the road great job on the entire machine.
Thanks! It's been awhile, but if I recall, I used Krylon spray cans. I did the lettering on my printer, cut it out, and used it as a spray mask- so the lettering is paint, too.
Wish my Rattle can paint jobs came out than nice 👌 good job
So my briggs engine has two wires coming off the engine. One red and one black wire in a harness. I suspect the hot is red and goes back to the relay and the ground goes to chassis and then switch?
Also i used a DPST switch that only has 2 top and 2 bottom screw terminals. I wired the power and start button wire on top and the ground wires on the bottom of one side (pair) of post.
When I attempted to connect hot battery terminal it sparked even though the kill switch was in off position and the fuse blew.
What am I doing wrong? I suspect it’s the kill switch wiring.
Also is rectifyer the same as the coil?
Thanks in advance Doc.
To begin with... The two wires coming from your stator- The red one is the DC charging wire. It is positive, and needs to ultimately lead back to your battery + post. This is often done either thru the key switch, or this big battery + terminal on the starter solenoid. The BLACK wire, is an AC lighting wire. It is AC output only, and ONLY to feed an incandescent headlights system. Do not use it for anything else. This could be causing your issue.
Next, back to that red wire. Look for a small cylinder shaped lump in the red wire close to the connector. This is the rectifier diode. You absolutely need this. If missing, buy one. This also will cause your issue.
I believe your toggle switch wiring is also faulty. On switch, ONLY the kill circuit should go to ground.
No, the rectifier turns an AC alternator signal into a DC charging signal. The coil makes the spark for your spark plug. Completely different. hopefully this info helps point you the right way.
One other point- all your engine grounding is done through it's mounting. Big battery (- )terminal right to the frame. Starting and charging systems self ground because the engine is bolted down.
Sprocket's Garage. I do have the diode on the AC wire and that is going to battery + Thanks for the clarification.
It's an old video, but wondered about your steering wheel ... Where did you get it? Excellent video, btw! Like that old Murray... I live about 75 mi from where they used to be manufactured in Lawrenceville, Tennessee!
My steering is froze up.
Honda 2013 rider steering is froze up.
2013 Honda Harmony steering is froze up
Removed tie Rods greased & lubricated all moving parts , reasemiabled still froze up.????
Really cool mower man! What tires are you gonna use?
I just bought a pair of ITP Mud Lites for the rear (22x11-8) and for the front, I'm going to use an old set of Carlisle X-tracs from MULE's old days (16x4.80-8) until something better comes along.
Where does the charging wire go to. The one coming from the voltage regulator
The short answer, is Battery +. There's other, better options like a positive bus bar, or thru the key switch power circuit, or even just to the BATT terminal on the starter relay.
would this also work with a briggs with a wire going it the bottom of the carb.?
Those antiafterfire solenoid isa total pain in the rear, and something I generally avoid. If you wish to keep it, you must supply it with 12 volts while your key (or master switch) is in the ON position. I delete them. Look for a video of mine called "Solenoid Sacrifice" as part of my Doc's Dirtcheap DIY series. It will tell you everything you need to know on the topic, including how to delete it.
ok thanks will do
well done
I can’t find a DPST 6 pin that is ON / OFF. Only On/ON. Can you provide a link please. I purchased a 4 pin but need the center lug correct? All DPDT switches come with center pin but like a knife switch are On/ Off/ On. Thanks in advance.
So maybe what I need is an On/On switch with center pin?
Sorry to be such a nag. I am obviously electronically challenged, despite the fact that i have wired many light fixtures and switches in my house🤔
Hey, no sweat. Nobody understands everything, myself included. This process would be easier if you get into my group. Do you have a FB account? Join Sprocket's Garage. Beware the dummy group. Mine has about 10K members.
Sprocket's Garage will do. I was thinking along the same lines.
I have a 1992 weed eater (poluan pro) mower. I cannot find a regulator rectifier, or a condenser or points. I was curious since it's such an old mower, is the technology different than what was shown in the video? The mower does have a stator though. Any help would be appreciated.
I would be VERY surprised if your 1992 Poulan requires breaker points and condenser. VERY surprised.
As for the charging system, it could have one of a few different types. To begin with, how many wires come off the stator, what colors are they, and what does the connector look like?
@@DocSprocket Thank you so much for responding. I have been searching articles for awhile. The stator has 2 wires coming out of it. Let me check and see what they look like.
@@DocSprocket There is 1 red and 1 black wire that come from the stator. They both go to a connector that is unplugged. When I got the mower there were several wires not connected to anything, including those. I finally found a wiring diagram for my mower. It appears the stator plugs into a diode before being routed to the ignition switch. There is a tiny bulge in one of the wires. I assume that is probably the diode.
The connector is rectangular with 2 cylinder shaped connectors inside.
@@ColtenMallow Yes- you have a dual circuit charging system. The red wire (with the diode hidden in it) is the DC charge wire. You can run that to Battery (+) , the battery terminal on your starter relay, or a few other possible locations. The Black wire is AC only, designed for basic headlights. Do NOT tie this wire into the rest of your electrical system. Most of us just cap it off and forget about it, as it is about useless. You CAN run regular lightbulbs off it (not LED's) but the slower your engine is running, the dimmer your lights will be.
Look awesome
What size wire did you use?
+Justin Bullock - You can use Regular 18 Gauge Hook Up Wires. The only thing you can NOT use is on the Solenoid and the Battery. Other than that, these Wires carry Low Voltage, so there is no need to add Heavy Gauge Wires.
Thank you
what about the bowl shut off regular on bottom
The Anti-afterfire Solenoid. See my video "Doc's Dirtcheap DIY- Solenoid Sacrifice", on what to do with those little pains in the butt. No electricity required.
The big yellow banana lol
You think one could have enough power from an engine charging system to run LED lights and charge a battery, if the engine only has a 3amp system? Rather not run a battery down if I don't have enough power.
3A is pretty weak. You sure about that? If so, go very minimal in the lighting. Definitely LED, and as few diodes as you're willing to use.
Not terribly sure. Ideally I'd like to go with a 10A system, however in order to do so, I'd have to get around a GX270 or 390 to have that option, seeing as though the Predator 420 only has a 3A option and no one has a write up to add a larger coil to it.
Hmmm. If the Predator were a true "clone", I would tell you to look into the alternator stator and rectifier for a Honda GX390- which can be had at 18A. However, the Predators are not considered to be true clones, as there ARE some differences, even though they are largely based on Honda GX architecture- so I cannot guarantee a fit. Perhaps something you can research, though.
Yeah I get what you mean. 18A would be nice, but I think that is way more than what I'd need for a couple LED lights and tail light/brake light. What I am wanting to do is a front engine go kart, kind of what you did with the diesel Weasel, but instead as a complete from scratch build and not use an existing template. Considering a GX390 with electric start, with the 18A stator is close to $900. Seeing as the 420 Predator is about half the cost, I figured I'd go after one of those to save on up front costs, then save up to get the Honda later. If it was doable to run a bi-directional alternator or 10si off the engine PTO and still have room for the CVT, I would do that. Since I would want constant power and not intermediate with the alternator on a jackshaft, that only goes while driving.
keep your overall amp draw under 3 amps. unless you go for crazy expensive led lights it should be easy to do. 3amps of leds is alot more lighting than you think.
My engine didn’t have the regulator
Would have been nice to have a light: flood or flashlight on to see what you were doing in those dark, tight spaces
Hi Doc, I have a Craftsman V twin with the same rats nest wiring, that shuts off engine when engaging clutch. I replaced the three safety switches. No change. I'm considering a rewire while I'm at it. To steal your key word "SIMPLY". Would I have to install two toggle switches, one to each kill wire or where'd you find that switch? This QPST abreviation doesn't work. Also I noticed you eliminated the Diodes. I don't know, I'm asking, is this cool?
Help,
John
+Toolman - Yea, you will need a " Separate " Switch for your Clutch. NOTE: Diodes are a One-Way Electron Flows. If you can leave them on, I suggest you to do so in any case... But the " Basic / Simple " Wiring should stay the same.
Toolman, I have a Craftsman GT6000 that has 2 diodes connected to the output of the stator. 28vac goes to the diodes, which are installed opposite of each other..... On the output side of one diode, you'll have +14vdc, and the other outputs -12vdc which goes to the headlights. This was their solution to a voltage regulator, which in my opinion is better, because those diodes can be found for about $2 a piece
@@jbcaplinger Thanks John. I agree about the Diodes. I bought six on line three years ago when I posted this comment.
I did solve the engine quitting problem by disconnecting the ground wires on both coils. It shuts off slower because it has to empty the Carb. of fuel. I have lived with that, so, I'm no longer concerned.
I bought the mower cheap as a basket case. The owner bought it new and it sat for 4 or 5 years and he used it one time.. :O) Don't know why??
Sitting outside made a mess out of it. It took a lot of work and some bucks to remedy but it was worth it for what I paid for it. I even repainted it.
It runs good now. I never did anything with the Diodes. So I don't know if they would have cured it. They're hanging on a nail. LOL
I eliminated the lights. I don't mow at night. Sorry this is so long. Thanks again for commenting!
Cheers, John
i like the wiring and paint... check out my new build on my channel... I managed make a rally mower on a murray chassis that is lighter than a stock Murray with suspension...
Finally
Lighting might help
I would enjoy it if you could draw up a schematic for me? If so I can give you a direct email to send it to. Thank you in advance.
I can probably help.
i was gonna say seconds into the video this guy is canaidan i was just waiting for an "eh" in one of the sentences thsoe easterners are easy to spot..or some canaidans are anyway some in saskachewan speak like this also...eh
Have to watch this 3 or 4 times but I will leave the seat switch
That switch is to complicated ~ just need 3 prongs switch. a hot, ground, element ~ To a lamp ect. These factory head lights on them are not worth shit. Put some led fog lights on em > Matter of fact i'am going to make a T6 bulb off a flash light. to put in them. To replace the cheap ass bulb = Talk about being alien? WOW THAT LASER BEAM BRIGHT
Is that a 4 prong or 3 Pringle starter solenoid
Been years, don't remember. Doesn't matter. If it has one small (trigger) terminal, run that to your start button or key, and be sure the mounting bracket has a good ground. If it has two, run the second small terminal to ground.