I brought my two sons with me one time. They rode in the rear seat. During the test drive I had each of them 1) Operate the power window switches 2) Operate the power door locks. After that I had them 3) Stand in front and back to help me test all my lights 4) Look for any scratches or dents or damage they could find.
Yes but that makes the seller more uncomfortable don’t forget they are human also so don’t bring you your buff 6,6 friend that can come off as intimidating
Legit I learned how to drive a stick, best ways to go to an interview, how to apply for FAFSA and other college related stuff, best things to look for when getting an apartment, and now I’m using it to figure out things I should keep in mind when getting my first car :)
STUFF TO LOOK FOR WHEN INSPECTING A USED CAR Outside of the car- •look at all the body panels and make sure they're the same color. If one is rusted, all should be rusted. •go around the car and look ar the reflections for any bumps •look at all the glass/mirrors •make sure both front tires come from the same company and both back tires come from the same company and make sure they are the same size. •check that all 4 rims are the same. And that there are no scratches,dents, etc. Can be expensive to fix. •check how deep the threads of the tires go woth a penny. •turn wheel, run ur hand evenly flat around the wheels. If its bumps, that means its not aligned or parts are worn out, making it thousands to repair. •open and close all doors/trunk/etc and see the alignment on the sides of it •look under car and see if theres any oil leakage/rust •look at the break discs. If shiny, its been running which is good. If rusty or not shiny, its been sitting which is bad. Interior- •check transmission fluid. (Yellow cap, should be red.) smell it to check if its not burnt •check engine oil ,check smell •check brake fluid. If its low, then brakes are worn out. If full, ur good. •check overall engine, make sure the cables are good, no rust •check antifreeze. Should be a nice color. •check for any scratches/broken plastic or ripped rug. Finally- test drive it in the city and highway. •Check if its straight or shakes at all. •Listen for sounds •make sure to do a high acceleration test and a high breaking test •turn both ways fully, hear for noises
I’ve watched this video when it first came out just for fun, but now I’m getting serious on buying this used car. The owner asked for $3500 but I got it down to $2500 thanks to you. Very helpful tips and very in depth video on what to look for. Thanks again Chris, looking forward to future videos!
@@Sly9192 tbh I can’t remember if I got the car 😂 there were two mustangs, one which seemed perfect but the owner didn’t mention the speedometer was out so we bailed and I ended up w an 04 mustang that lasted for almost a year but there was a crack in the block so I traded it in and got a 2013 charger lol
Cris. I think these vids are going to be very helpful to a lot of folks. I responded to your last video. Again My father has sold, managed, and owned car dealerships my entire life (I'm 50). I have worked in the industry. So I have a lot of first hand experience. All of the points you make are valid and useful information. Additionally I would advise your viewers: Dress down, It's a mistake not to look underneath the car (I absolutely lay on my back and look underneath. Looking for fluid's, exhaust condition, CV boots, ect . . . Also this is another opportunity to put that paper towel you suggested to use. If you see fluid, touch it with the paper towel. That may be the only way to tell if it's oil, brake fluid, condensation, ect. Bringing an old cardboard box to lay on is never a bad idea. Inspect rims for damage, they may be a red flag for suspension issues. push top's and sides of tires looking for play. Look for mismatched body/door panel seams, and mismatched paint (faded/shiny/color) these may indicate non reported damage or repair. This often is missed. Look to see rims, hubcaps, from driver side match passenger side. (easy to overlook and makes me look stupid) Temper your expectations when negotiating. If the paint is not perfect on a ten year old car, get over it. If the car wont make it through the week in the current condition (cracked windshield, bald tires, damaged exhaust. Negotiate that you expected not to incur immediate expense and car should be safe to drive. Ask for consideration if your research indicates an expensive scheduled service or repair is required or imminent. Often this is what pushed the seller to put the car on the market. It's not likely the seller will "Belly up to the bar" and pay for the repair. But just as often they will acknowledge this burden and possibly split the cost, or share the burden. This is especially true if they did not initially disclose that information. Research, as you suggested is king. If you have a wife or child with you. Use that as an excuse to do a more detailed examination. "I want to teach my boy what to look for" ect. Every car seller in the history of car sells, will tell you they have two or three other buyers lined up. If you feel rushed like you have to buy now. Walk away, you don't. This is where bad decisions and regret are born. I promise unless this car has some rare historical significance (first off the line in 1964&1/2). You will fall in love with another car within a week, at worst a month. If you are buying for spouse or child. DON'T LET THEM FALL IN LOVE! Respectful and polite. Your not trying to make a new friend (In fact I advise not to buy used cars from friends). There is going to be some polite small talk ect . . don't let that distract you. You absolutely should be friendly and considerate. Just don't let that overwhelm your diligence. I know your next video will be the "Test Drive". I would like to make a couple of suggestions for that. Only turn the radio on to see if it functions properly. Then shut it off. Drive in town, stop and go, bumpy roads. Then highway. Windows up, and windows down listening for noises. Reverse and forward. Look under the hood and under the car (after the ride). You will be able to see fresh leaks best then. If it's winter, turn on the AC. If it's summer, turn on the heat. Roll up and down ALL windows. Keep up the good video's Kris. I am not much of a wrencher but have been using your video's more and more often, to save myself money and do DIY myself.
Wow. This is amazing, thank you! I especially love your point on tempering your expectations and keeping in mind that cars come and go. There never is that one perfect car (unless, of course, it's a rare antique like you stated). This cool talk from my cousin who always accompanied me during inspections has saved me a few times.
@@juanchisaenz9476 Want to know how to buy a used car? Buy it off a one owner, or two owner, elderly/older, maintained at dealerships, ask for paperwork if they have it. And... you can never go wrong :)
When my mum was looking for a new car she found a used 13' VW Golf she loved. I am glad I went with her though. While I didn't know about this checklist, I went through most of these points anyway and found out that it had missed it's 70k miles service and timing belt change. I managed to knock about $3k off the asking price of $7k (We are in the UK here) The reason I got so much knocked off is because it is about 750 to get it done at our local VW garage and we also needed to put new tires and the breaks needed to be completely replaced. Did the breaks my self thanks to a Chris Fix vid, but wasn't confident enough to tackle the belt.
Seem's an honest seller because they wouldn't usually tell you about issues that have existed and that they have been fixed ...they usually try to make it look perfect as possible
@Mike G Not me. I show them flaws they never would have found in a test drive so they know they're not dealing with some lying sack of sh** cheater. I try never to cheat a buyer, and the first customer to come over almost always ends up buying my car. They're always super clean when I sell them, and I'm very up front about what they're getting. (I’m not as totally awesome a detailer as ChrisFix, but I’m pretty good at it)
Omg I can't believe I watched this like 4 years ago and was like "I will need to know this when I get my first car" and I just got mine a few days ago, I followed all the steps and I got a great deal! It is insane how much information you put in your videos! I got my dream first car because of following these steps, keep up the amazing work Chris!
Not to intrude, but here are some precursors you can check before you check the car out: 1. A 200k+ mile motor is going to be pretty worn-down, so ask the owner if it's ever been rebuilt. Contrary to popular belief, a car with a rebuilt motor or transmission with these kinds of miles often means the person cared enough about the car to keep it running. But remember! The keyword is "rebuilt," not "replaced." You don't want to skimp on this distinction, because a lot of car shops will replace a bad motor with an old motor (sometimes even older than the one that failed!), and that can spell bad news down the line. The same can be said for transmissions and other components that have been replaced, so it's always helpful to ask first. 2. Avoid "KBB costs." Often times, when you're looking for a deal, people will try to cite the Kelly Blue Book price estimate for the vehicle, and more often than not, that's because this person has no experience with cars, so they default to something they think is fair. In the end, you may get little things that can add up to a lot, like joints, filters, mounts, and other things that can go bad slowly over the life of the car without the owner noticing. This can lead to repairs that can double the KBB cost of the car! The answer here is to obviously check carefully before you buy, but if you have a decent price with someone religiously citing KBB, be on your toes or avoid it entirely. 3. The "Mechanic's Special." This simply means that there was an issue the owner couldn't fix themselves, so they leave it to a mechanic. This varies in difficulty from headlights to CV axles, to extensive body damage, but the most common issue is a failed engine or transmission. If you see "mechanic's special" in the title, click with caution! Remember to ask what exact symptoms the car is exhibiting, and do your own research on what it could be. Knowledge is power, and this could help you greatly in the long-run. 4. Be careful of terms like "you won't find this lower anywhere!" or "I know the cost of this car, so no lowballs!" Often times, this can - and probably will - be followed up with a price lowering in the next few weeks, or a car will pop up with the same specs for much, much lower. There are exceptions, but this is the rule. In general, I personally don't like to get involved with these people. Sometimes you can get somewhere, but often they won't even let you pop the hood, so be wary. 5. Don't meet up and inspect the first car you come across. Often times, a car will have hidden common issues that no one wants to admit to, but if you look around, you see patterns that are too large to be coincidental. A famous example is the early Northstar Cadillac (1995-2004), where it was common for the cylinder heads to fail after a certain amount of years or miles. You won't find much official information on this, and the only way to glean this information sometimes is to research other models for sale. Be sure to look around with the car you're interested in, and see what the most common issues you run across are, as well as how expensive it would be to fix, or even if you can replace the part with an aftermarket substitute that solves the problem entirely. Or, if you're not set on a particular make or model, just move on. 6. Beware of scams (this is the more obvious and less useful information). This shouldn't need to be said, but if you find an immaculate ten-year-old car with only 60k miles on it and the owner is generously selling for a couple hundred dollars, be wary! Giving them your e-mail can put it on a lot of companies' mailing list, and your phone number can be further sold to scammers, and good ones, too! Always practice personal protection; if it looks too good to be true, it probably is. A helpful tip on this is to look for multiple listings of the same vehicle in different states. This is easiest on Craigslist, where clicking "include nearby areas" will pull up listings from nearby states, allowing those multiple posts to list consecutively. 7. I can't remember if it was listed in the video, but please remember to STAY SAFE. When setting up a viewing, insist on viewing the car in a public place, with a lot of potential witnesses. This carries a few benefits, one being that it makes it harder for the person selling to rob you. Public places are also often easy access to roads for further personal test driving, which can be useful for obvious reasons. Remember, if they shut down the idea, it's safer to just avoid it altogether. If you want to buy a car that runs, and they can't even make it down the street to the local WalMart, it's not worth your time anyways. Remember to check your rear-view for the vehicle if you don't buy it, as well, and pull into a police station if you discover them following you. Be observant, smart ones will follow a few cars behind at all times. Always bring a buddy, and again, STAY SAFE. These are a few rules I can think of off the top of my head. If I missed anything, feel free to hit the "reply" button so we can keep this information in one place. Once again, knowledge is power, and the more you know, the more likely you are to come out on top!
This is a fantastic series of videos on buying a used car. I used these strategies for a recent purchase at a dealership, and although they didn't budge on the price (deep in the middle of the chip shortage), I got them to include new tires (even though the existing ones were okay), a new battery, and a brake fluid flush. The checklist is priceless.
@@thatgui88 that doesn't seem too bad for a clean low mileage used car....6 years ago I got a high mileage salvage 2013 Impala for $5k, not a good deal 🤣 it stopped running 2 weeks ago
Love how Chris sticks to the subject and keep the information coming! No chit chat and unnecessary dragged out information about other semi- related things! Nice channel!
Question 1. Do you own this car? Question 2. May I see your ID and the car title to see if the names match? Then you know if the seller is flipping the car for someone else or "curbstoning" you.
hey Chris! Just wanted to give you an update and also a HUGE thank-you!! I went into this process badly needing to know what to do with no clue how to start and what to look for, and nervous I was gonna get overcharged or stuck with something awful when I don't have much money to start with. These vids were empowering; they gave me the know-how to approach this process with confidence. Your checklist is also a phenomenal tool, thanks so much for making it available for free!! By the time I found a solid side-of-the-road car I already knew what to look for and what I needed to ask the owner. The one I picked should last me for at least a few years, and it wouldn't have been possible without your resources. Anytime in the future I have any doubt on how to handle anything car-related, the first thing I'll do is come back to your RUclips channel, and I'll also point anyone I know who's stuck with these problems to you too.
don't buy a car that already has warm engine. u wanna hear cold start. another tip is, when the engine bay is super clean or appears to be cleaned recently means the seller is trying to hide something. 3rd, make sure the seller is not stopping you from looking at something at detail. for instance you are looking at the trunk and looking or pulling the carpet at the trunk and the owner is stopping you from doing that let's say by saying don't pull the carpets it might fall off or other excuses, means he or she is trying to hide something. 4th, don't ever look at car body work when it is raining, you will be amazed what water can hide
if you started taking my car apart while test driving it I would beat you. I think just about every person in the world at least tries to clean an engine bay on a car, even if they are not selling it. It helps you nothing any new leaks or unusual happenings. Take the car into a reputable mechanic, AT HIS SHOP, someone that will really look it over, test compression, put a boroscope in the valve cover, and put it on a lift to check drivetrain and brakes, and suspension components. A real stickler may send a sample of the fluids off to see what the composition tells you. (; Probably depends if you are buying a $1k work truck or a $40k used Porsche 911. A mechanic shouldnt charge more than a few hundred to properly check out a vehicle but no less either. I wouldnt pull out a compression test kit on a 6 or 8 cylinder for under 100 bucks ...then test driving, and on the lift for 30 mins...take off wheels and inspect brakes...
That is bullshit advice. I ALWAYS clean the engine bay! It prevents excessive heat. Also a clean engine bay exposes leaks easier.. after a 30 min test drive, park under a clean area and you will QUICKLY find any leaks if there are any.
@@emanu1674 Who says its a shitty car? Look buddy I have 5 cars myself, 1 bike and 4 cars, 2014 Lexus Is 350, 2014 Focus St, 2004 Rx 330, 1987 944 Turbo, and a 2006 R6. I dont really buy shitty cars. Why would you not want to have a shop with a lift and a compression test done to your car. I buy cars that tend to be abused ie sports cars and higher powered luxury vehicles. It was a bargain to pay that for me. It saved me from buying a 1986 944 turbo that had 35 lbs off on piston number 3. It doeant nessesarily mean its blown but it let me know that wasnt my car. Ended up buying a Guards red 87 with 103k miles on it, mint, belts just done, new clutch, 6,500 cash. It has since gotten a K27 turbo upgrade, ecu reprogrammed, and a larger intercooler and bov. Top end ported and polished, three angle valve job, and cometic head gasket...few other odds and ends. cold starts are rough but once it warms it runs great. I think the bung i welded for the coolant sensor is sitting in the wrong place and needs to be relocated. Anyway I digress. You probably have bought a handful of cars in your life, I do it weekly punk.
I started my driving journey with my dad during my senior year of high school. When I moved out of state for college it was put on pause. Now that I have graduated I'm finally starting my journey over but without my dad. I really appreciate these videos because I get to learn everything my dad would've taught me. Now I feel confident that dealerships and sellers won't take advantage of me because I'm a girl. You got a subscriber out of me! Thanks for what you do.
I've bought and sold dozens of used cars as a hobby. He is right on the money with all his tips and tricks. There's a lot to know when it comes to buying a used car. Unfortunately there are a lot of hurdles to navigate out there... Luckily, ChrisFix is helping us navigate them. THANKS CHRIS!
another test is sticking your finger in the exhaust, you can tell if it's running rich or burning oil, if your finger comes out relatively clean, the engine is running fine.
Purchased 2001 Ram truck one owner 120,000 miles on it for $3200.00 cash, drove it to work for 4 years. Got A Texas air check voucher for $3000.00 at trade in for A 2011 Ram. Still have the 2011 going strong for 9 years, last 5 years without A payment. THAT IS HOW IT IS DONE! Thank You.
Ideally you should go to their home to look over the car. I know it's "safer" to meet in a public place, but it means that you can check to see if they live where the car is registered. You can also get an idea of how well the car is likely to be looked after - if the home is run down and lacking care, then chances are the the car is treated the same. And if they say it's a family car, but the house looks like a bachelor pad... You can also ask them to leave the car and not start it up, so you get to hear it from cold - something you can't really do if you meet somewhere.
Excellent video. I sold cars for about 10 years. One thing, I see a lot where I am now is scammers selling "salvage", "rebuilt" "scrap" cars without telling the buyer they have no value, can not be financed, And can not ever be covered by "full coverage" insurance.
For KBB you should go by the Private Party price, not the trade-in. You'll be insulting most people if you ask for the trade in prices which range from Fair, Good, Very Good, and Excellent. You make the determination based on inspection of the car and negotiage from there. Never pay more than 25% more than KBB Excellent value. Cargo vans are notorious for this, some being priced up to 200% over KBB Excellent value.
Age of Reason Yes this. I was confused as hell when I looked up a car and it said something like KBB valued for 5700 and the trade in was 3000 and thought “I’m gonna get ripped off” until I changed it to the private party and it said “4800-6300”
A neighbor wanted to sell me a truck. I had not see this vid. We did a test drive. But I insisted we take it to a dealership to get this mutt checked. He wanted $8500. The dealership said it would cost $13,000 to totally fix. Needless to say, "No Sale." They say there's a sucker born every minute. Thank God I'm not one of them. Gratitude for sharing this information.
When it comes to the used car market, you get what you pay for 98% of the time. Getting a good deal should not mean anything more than getting what you pay for. Keep it simple.... 1. If it's too good to be true.... it probably ..... 2. Mostly highway miles my ASS 3. Women-driven does not mean anything 4. Since when does A/C + power windows and doors makes a car fully loaded? 5. On newer cars, the smallest issues will cost a fortune to replace/repair. Junk yards don't have the parts, aftermarket parts are either not available yet or are still very expensive.
@@karigreyd2808 Excuse me but please do not Class all women tbe same. I check my oil once a month or whenever I am doing a log journey. Mine have alternating between minor service and major service every 6 months.
MrGeno1951 lol i know a couple people fucked by that. One guy bought a car from a guy who was the proper owner but didn't have the title signed over. Wonder how it was even registered. Then the guy was arrested for something and wasnt responding to the guy i know, but eventually got out and got him the proper title
+tyler jackson Nice. Any reliability issues? seems like a lot of people hate the Jaggy for some reason, personally I would like it just because it's got fomoco parts
How to buy a used car. First tip: do not buy a used British luxury car. Now, there's always exceptions to rules. However, I can confidently say that the first tip applies, absolutely and without any exception, to a Jaguar X-Type.
+69Phuket Not really, it shares the chassis but saying it is a Mondeo is like saying a Touareg is the same as a Cayenne because they both share the same platform too, or any one of vehicles from many manufacturers that share a common platform.
@@ltagames01 lmao its not mean its usually true. its usually not their fault, theyre just using the car to get from point a to point b so they either 1. wont care or 2. dont have the time to keep up w the maintenence. also kids r rutheless and ruin car interiors lol
Excellent advice Chris! One exception. Don't bring the money. Not on your person or car. Meet later after the negotiation and after you see the title. Pay then!
I usually ask for their license and registration just make sure the car is under their name, and also their title for the vehicle. My uncle bough a Nissan Altima a few years back for $13,000 off of craigslist, and when he took the papers to the dmv they said it was actually a rental car. He lost all of his money sadly but at least I learned a lesson! A very expensive lesson loool
Hey Chris, its great you're making all these useful and awesome unexpected videos!! But please also don't forget the police car project, in the next one you said you would do all the wiring up of the switches and maybe you could even update the center console, which some people said wasn't the best. The storage compartment was too deep, it would be inconvenient to manage things back there. However, you're still the best car dude around and your videos are better than any others' so keep yourself motivated and thanks!
Thank you, Chris Fix for providing this amazing resource. Questions on buying a car: -Why is it important to not get emotional while trying to buy a used car? -Have you ever been in a situation where someone tried to steal your wallet or did you hear about that from a friend? -If you don't see a price tag on the used car, why is it not worth your time to pursue? Is it because they end up asking for an outrageous price or they don't know the price or what? -What if you're trying to buy a car from a dealership as a woman and your dealing with a salesman who is using high pressure sales techniques? What would you do? (Or a man and the salesman is still using high pressure sales techniques) -Have you ever come across a time where the body of the car looked good but when you looked under the hood, it was a rusty, icky mess? Whatever questions you can answer on your channel would be stupendous and I tend to do my own research as well but to hear the answers from someone who has a plethora of experience in buying cars would be super helpful. Thank you!
Hey, so i'm not Chris but i have my answer for your first question: It's important to not get emotional for a few reasons.. 1. to be able to back out if it's starting to look or feel shady and not be caught up with your feeling of "loving this car off" or "absolutely having to buy it" 2. allows you not to seem so interested by the car, the dealer can tell and then might use that against you in trying to sell it/things that are just okay. Also, he could bargain less with you if he feels he has you on the hook. 3. So you don't feel too bad if the car is bogus and you have to say no 4. Make him think you're a difficult buyer, and allow you to do more things to be satisfied or reassured because you he might feel you can just pass up on him. And if he's been waiting to sell that car, he won't let that opportunity slip by too easily. That's why he cracked in the end.. he bluffed to the max but when he saw the guy was "really" leaving, and had little time to rethink his position, he felt it could be his only option soon...
For the high pressure salesman/woman: Go on google and research about the car. Write down the basics, the specs, what reviews and people think of it good and bad and stick to the facts. Sellers will try to find a leverage argument, so an argument that speaks to you and might try many. He aim is to convince you so don't feel convinced to easily and realise when he sounds convincing. You can also ask him questions to make him not get carried away to much as a salesman is supposed to be confident and dependable.. so if you take that power away by making him a bit less credible, he'll advise you more then he'll actually tell you "this is the best", and it'll make you look like a less gullible person. Questions such as: How long have you been working here? Is buisness good? Does this car sell good? (Slip in some research to show you're still aware of things like "i heard this car is a difficult sell" or "..has issues with blablabla, have you heard of any?". This is a trick question to show you know some shit despite his answer so he/she better not try to do you for a dummy) Flatter them: You seem like an honest person, do people tell you that? (You'll see if he blushes or takes pride in that or hesitates and changes subject or stays professional unbudged which is a sign of a cold hard seller which will be harder to decipher) What car do you drive? Why that one? Did you get it here? (If not: why not? Seems like you could get a good discount working here..) I hear all your arguments but just to let you know, i'll still have to think about it And yeah.. keep to the facts. He'll use fscts to argue, but normally won't change the facts. Google also: What to ask a dealership salesman/woman How to avoid getting scammed by salesmen/women? Etc. A year later but good luck
Great video Chris! The checklist is good stuff. I can't fault you for anything really, so I would only add a few bits that I may have before on part one of this. Take a tape measure in addition to the flashlight, and a friend. Because reports on VIN searches can omit accident damage info, it helps to do a basic X measurement with the hood up. This will show quickly if the unibody chassis has been twisted or tweeked. Also, look at the bolts that hold on the fenders on both right and left of the top of the engine bay. Those are painted after assembly at the factory, so the bolts should have the same even coat of paint as the rest of underhood area of the car. If there is paint scraped off those bolts, like as if a socket has removed them, then put them back on, then it's clear that its' been in an accident. If you find other things wrong, they can be negotiating points that the buyer can use to reduce the cost. Example, if you drive in very slow circles in a parking lot, one full circle in each direction with the steering wheel fully locked. If it makes clicking sounds, or acts like it's rolling over bumps that aren't there, then it likely has a CV axle that is bad. Those are not hard to replace in reality, but you could tell the owner that could be a CV axle, or the transmission going out, either way that will take shop time and cost to repair, and it could be very expensive. I've had the cost of a car reduced greatly for that. I say that specifically because many Chrysler minivans have factory service bulletins that say the side of the tranny can blow out litteraly, if the driver tries to gun it faster while slipping on ice or snow.
I used your awesome checklist to buy a used car from a dealer and they replaced the GPS and fixed the running boards and sticking hood, but I didn't think to make a deal on a second key. After the fact, I went to a locksmith to make a second key and they said the emergency key inside the fob doesn't fit the lock on the door, so that might be something to add to your fantastic list, cuz it really was super helpful. I think that was the only thing not on there!
Great tips, thanks a bunch Chris. You've surely helped many people in their process in restoring, fixing or buying cars. I think this is great, just wanted say this because it means a lot to me and surely others that you take time to film these videos and share your knowledge about cars :D Have a great day!
An important research step is to look at the maintenance schedule of the car. See what maintenance is due soon based on the mileage of the car. Remember the previous owner could have skipped earlier scheduled maintenance, and you must do it after buying the car if so. So view the maintenance schedule to give you points to negotiate down the price of a car as maintenance can be expensive, and so you know what needs to be done after buying the car to keep it healthy and avoid expensive/catastrophic failures. (example below) E.g. A timing belt change is critical and expensive maintenance done every 10 years or 100,000 miles on a lot of cars (some have a chain which doesn't normally need changing). If unchanged, the timing belt gets weak enough to snap and destroy the engine. If you have to do a timing belt service, it costs at least a few hundred dollars (maybe more) but it's absolutely necessary to change on time. The previous owner may not even know it needs to be done, like one I chatted with recently. An extra point is on some engines, the accessory belt is as important to change as the timing belt because they are close together, and if the accessory belt snaps it could cause failure of the timing belt and therefore engine damage. The easiest way to know these quirks and "secret knowledge" is to talk to a mechanic experienced with that car brand and model, though online searches on car forums will also find this in depth info.
Could you possibly make a video on what to change/fix/service when you've bought a used car that you don't know everything about? Like a top 5 or top 10?
I am certified ASE I always say there is tags, insurance, and tune up. Spark plugs air filter oil and filter brakes and rotors. If the coolant looks bad go ahead and do it too. But those are the first things I get out of the way due to the fact that you have no idea when they where last changed or if they even have been changed. Now you have a clean slate and better gas mileage.
Thank you so much for the videos and the checklists you made! I feel much more confident looking at used cars now. What a great tool your lists are so you should be proud of them! 😊 Again, thanks Chris!
Thank you for making this, Chris. I wish I had this to review a long time ago when i bought my first used car. This will definitely help a lot of first time buyers. Thumbs up!
Chris u just hooked me up with a 2016 Honda Accord thanks man ur the best!!! 7k for 49,000k mile car and had absolutely nothing wrong with it only some scratches and the smell of cigarette smoke other than that its amazing
I wished 8 would have waited for this video before I got my car. I bought it at Downtown Nissan in Nashville Tennessee (yes I am blasting them). i got a 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe for $13k out of the door, but the original was $15k out of the door. They gave us two keys, one belongs to the car and the other one doesn't belong to it. We test drove this at night and we didn't see the scratches on it and when I parked it, it was under a pavilion with bright lights and I didn't know the driver side underglow was broken till I got home and they won't fix it, I went back and told them and they said that we needed to pay $200 for inspection and over $75 to rewire the led, and I also asked about the key and they said that we need to pay $250-300 to get the key fob reprogramed. Just never go to Downtown Nissan in Nashville Tennessee. They are a terrible dealership and Andrew was the guy selling me the car.
Awesome job dude, trough those links to check the car's history I found out that the car I was buying hadn't original mileage when the dude selling it claimed those are the original mileage... God bless you always
Bro I apreciate what your doing man you're actually one of the good ones wich makes you the best ones, keep it up there's not much left and again thank you very much.
THANK YOU. I was considering buying a beautiful low mileage 9th gen corolla but I used your salvage checker link and found out it had been in a rear end collision that compromised its frame. I test drove it today and it was a great car overall and I could not tell that there was a single thing wrong with the car other than a few things the buyer disclosed like a wheel bearing. saved me from a bad purchase.
Biggest most important thing I think is make sure clean title and history of oil changes documented...if a car hasn't gotten regular oil changes it's been abused.
My father has been thinking of thinking about maybe buying a Jaguar S-type, about the same year as this one or around early 2000's and I got to see it today. What a coincidence!
+shawno009 That's not true, had a S-Type that had 65k miles and the transmission went out. The fake wood cracked on the dash, power doors failed. Also, Jaguar maintenance isn't cheap. Go buy a Lexus LS with 200k miles and it'll be more reliable than a Jaguar S-TYpe
+Nimmei these rich photography dudes on youtube said jags are gas guzzlers...but honestly when jags, mercedes, etc are a dime a dozen in used car lots you have to wonder are they reliable or an arm and leg to repair?
I'm glad you pointed to the "Trade In Value" because these values online are often ridiculous & to many people swear by them when they are selling cars. I miss the old days when someone stated what they wanted & you go from there. Having these values determining sites created a lot of resellers that take junk cars & flip them & rip people off. Some cars are way over priced because the amount it cost to work on them is not cheap. When buying a used car you can assume with certainty that its gonna need some work while you have it. If you DIY then that may not a big factor. That trade in value is closer to the true value & if the guy dropped from 3500 to 2999 you know he'll drop a little more. Finding good cars that's been sitting a while can be your best bargains cause people get tired of dealing with trying to sell it. They are still paying insurance & have to hope no one damages it if they just park it somewhere. Also if they are parking it out in the open odds are they aren't using the internet much. 10 years+ ago you could find good deal's for a few hundred dollars. Anyway great video as usual.
I always tell people if they don't know what their looking at. Take the car to a dealer (If your looking at a Jaguar, take it to a Jaguar dealership), and have the service guy do a used car inspection on it. You will pay for 1 hour of their labor rate (will usually cost anywhere from $120-$150), but they will let you know if anything is messed up, needs brakes, major leaks, any recalls, they can look up the warranty history and tell you if anything major was replaced....And if you are waiting at the dealership, sometimes the advisor can take you back there so you can have a look at the underside. And if the car is too bad, you only lost $150 rather than thousands...
Wow so much information :O so good but I also feel like it's over my head. I need to study this more. 24 year old female about to move across the country alone... I need a car when I get to the state. Trying to do as much research as I can.
So these vids are absolute life-savers. They are going to be my Bible as I go into this process for the first time for myself, and they’re really helping me feel empowered by giving me some idea of what I’m doing, which is drastically different than how overwhelmed I was feeling by this whole thing at first. So firstly, thank you for making these so comprehensive!!!!! I just found a used car at the side of the road for sale, and it’s nothing special but it’s what I’m looking for, right make/model/price/years/clean title. But the thing is, the guy DOES sell cars on the side/sounds like he works with a dealership. Is this on its own really a big red flag to walk away from? Or what red flags should I be on the lookout for while we’re chatting- any specific questions I should be asking, for example? Any advice is appreciated
Don’t ever feel bad if the car isn’t worth it or not as advertised, it’s not your problem at all. Shake hands, say “thank you for your time” and walk away
@@Brian-of6js YES , put the ADD out there " I BUY cars for cash !! ...and have people who need immediate cash bringing cars to you . than it is a lot easier to negotiate .
ChrisFix One thing I didn't see mentioned was mileage. Is there anyway to tell if the mileage on the vehicle is original? I know some sellers that might be trying to pull a fast one will mess with the odometer to show something different then what's actually on the car. Thanks
Austin Alexander make sure you get that factory clearcoat included in...Gus down in fargo might talk to his manager about not charging for the clearcoat...
Helpful tip: never buy cars Haggard Garage style aka buying shit boxes in the middle of the pitch black night, listening to the sketchy owner talking up the car lol
I wish I had found you sooner so I could’ve known what to look for when I bought my truck. Nothing wrong with the truck but there were a lot of things I missed out on. Love your videos, man! Subscribed in an instant.
buy an endoscope, stick it down in every hole and start making sounds like "hmmm..." and "ho boy..."
Price will drop fast..
lol
I would die 😂
Frank would've ran
🤣. I gotta try that
Hahaha that would be extremely sexual
Another good tip is to never go alone. Bring a friend! They might spot things you might miss, and its just safer as well.
What if you dont have any friends
RatOnTheMoon bring someone who knows about cars .
I brought my two sons with me one time. They rode in the rear seat. During the test drive I had each of them 1) Operate the power window switches 2) Operate the power door locks. After that I had them 3) Stand in front and back to help me test all my lights 4) Look for any scratches or dents or damage they could find.
Cool thanks
Yes but that makes the seller more uncomfortable don’t forget they are human also so don’t bring you your buff 6,6 friend that can come off as intimidating
Without haveing a dad I love RUclips cause it’s like a parent. I mean I have mom who is the best but RUclips is a good place to learn
Bless you
Legit I learned how to drive a stick, best ways to go to an interview, how to apply for FAFSA and other college related stuff, best things to look for when getting an apartment, and now I’m using it to figure out things I should keep in mind when getting my first car :)
Same situation here
Same
Yeah it’s unlimited knowledge I love it
STUFF TO LOOK FOR WHEN INSPECTING A USED CAR
Outside of the car-
•look at all the body panels and make sure they're the same color. If one is rusted, all should be rusted.
•go around the car and look ar the reflections for any bumps
•look at all the glass/mirrors
•make sure both front tires come from the same company and both back tires come from the same company and make sure they are the same size.
•check that all 4 rims are the same. And that there are no scratches,dents, etc. Can be expensive to fix.
•check how deep the threads of the tires go woth a penny.
•turn wheel, run ur hand evenly flat around the wheels. If its bumps, that means its not aligned or parts are worn out, making it thousands to repair.
•open and close all doors/trunk/etc and see the alignment on the sides of it
•look under car and see if theres any oil leakage/rust
•look at the break discs. If shiny, its been running which is good. If rusty or not shiny, its been sitting which is bad.
Interior-
•check transmission fluid. (Yellow cap, should be red.) smell it to check if its not burnt
•check engine oil ,check smell
•check brake fluid. If its low, then brakes are worn out. If full, ur good.
•check overall engine, make sure the cables are good, no rust
•check antifreeze. Should be a nice color.
•check for any scratches/broken plastic or ripped rug.
Finally-
test drive it in the city and highway.
•Check if its straight or shakes at all.
•Listen for sounds
•make sure to do a high acceleration test and a high breaking test
•turn both ways fully, hear for noises
Thank you so much
Yeah, can I hire you to take you to inspect a vehicle? XD
Respect
Legend, thanks man ✌🏽
How about this: Chris makes an app with his voice asking the questions and you just play it.
L Faker son, no.
Great idea if you're an idiot. With my voice, smarts, and personality tied behind my back, I can out haggle Chris.
How about paying Chris to go with you when you buy a car so that he can do all the haggling
And this car already had chrisfix on the numberplate
Bevin M he said in a different video he does that to block the license plate
That checklist is really a life saver
I'm glad to see it worked for you!
Add blinker fluid to the list, it's very important and can save your life.
+hackermaniaa hahaha
Lol great comment
And brake fluid
+hackermaniaa they quit using blinker fluid because it causes autism when mixed with gluten. and it could lead to homosexual behavior.
@ChrisFix Dont forget the piston return springs
I’ve watched this video when it first came out just for fun, but now I’m getting serious on buying this used car. The owner asked for $3500 but I got it down to $2500 thanks to you. Very helpful tips and very in depth video on what to look for. Thanks again Chris, looking forward to future videos!
Hey it's been 3 years how's the car
@@Sly9192 tbh I can’t remember if I got the car 😂 there were two mustangs, one which seemed perfect but the owner didn’t mention the speedometer was out so we bailed and I ended up w an 04 mustang that lasted for almost a year but there was a crack in the block so I traded it in and got a 2013 charger lol
@@lunv2000
Someone actually replied to request of an update. Doesn't happen often. 🙂
@@MaximC lol I’m always on yt so
@@lunv2000 A year... I'm looking at getting an sn95 or miata for college definitely need more than a year though
"Dont get emotional". I cry, can't help it
mia claire I buy the car and then cry about it later
Think about the repair shop and how much you have to pay and fix things later, then you cry even harder.
@@chavezhurtado6483 buy once cry once. Probably gonna buy a truck tomorrow. Its gonna take my whole savings but I need a reliable vehicle.
Me too 😭
Underrated comment bro😂
Cris.
I think these vids are going to be very helpful to a lot of folks.
I responded to your last video. Again My father has sold, managed, and owned car dealerships my entire life (I'm 50). I have worked in the industry. So I have a lot of first hand experience. All of the points you make are valid and useful information.
Additionally I would advise your viewers:
Dress down, It's a mistake not to look underneath the car (I absolutely lay on my back and look underneath. Looking for fluid's, exhaust condition, CV boots, ect . . . Also this is another opportunity to put that paper towel you suggested to use. If you see fluid, touch it with the paper towel. That may be the only way to tell if it's oil, brake fluid, condensation, ect. Bringing an old cardboard box to lay on is never a bad idea.
Inspect rims for damage, they may be a red flag for suspension issues. push top's and sides of tires looking for play.
Look for mismatched body/door panel seams, and mismatched paint (faded/shiny/color) these may indicate non reported damage or repair.
This often is missed. Look to see rims, hubcaps, from driver side match passenger side. (easy to overlook and makes me look stupid)
Temper your expectations when negotiating. If the paint is not perfect on a ten year old car, get over it. If the car wont make it through the week in the current condition (cracked windshield, bald tires, damaged exhaust. Negotiate that you expected not to incur immediate expense and car should be safe to drive.
Ask for consideration if your research indicates an expensive scheduled service or repair is required or imminent. Often this is what pushed the seller to put the car on the market. It's not likely the seller will "Belly up to the bar" and pay for the repair. But just as often they will acknowledge this burden and possibly split the cost, or share the burden. This is especially true if they did not initially disclose that information. Research, as you suggested is king.
If you have a wife or child with you. Use
that as an excuse to do a more detailed examination. "I want to teach my boy what to look for" ect.
Every car seller in the history of car sells, will tell you they have two or three other buyers lined up. If you feel rushed like you have to buy now. Walk away, you don't. This is where bad decisions and regret are born. I promise unless this car has some rare historical significance (first off the line in 1964&1/2). You will fall in love with another car within a week, at worst a month. If you are buying for spouse or child. DON'T LET THEM FALL IN LOVE!
Respectful and polite. Your not trying to make a new friend (In fact I advise not to buy used cars from friends). There is going to be some polite small talk ect . . don't let that distract you. You absolutely should be friendly and considerate. Just don't let that overwhelm your diligence.
I know your next video will be the "Test Drive". I would like to make a couple of suggestions for that.
Only turn the radio on to see if it functions properly. Then shut it off.
Drive in town, stop and go, bumpy roads. Then highway. Windows up, and windows down listening for noises.
Reverse and forward.
Look under the hood and under the car (after the ride). You will be able to see fresh leaks best then.
If it's winter, turn on the AC. If it's summer, turn on the heat.
Roll up and down ALL windows.
Keep up the good video's Kris. I am not much of a wrencher but have been using your video's more and more often, to save myself money and do DIY myself.
Wow. This is amazing, thank you! I especially love your point on tempering your expectations and keeping in mind that cars come and go. There never is that one perfect car (unless, of course, it's a rare antique like you stated). This cool talk from my cousin who always accompanied me during inspections has saved me a few times.
Bryan Sage Do you sell cars Anywhere in the States? You seem really trustworthy & knowledgeable about inspecting cars 😮
People actually have the time to read all of this?
@@colelarsen7164 Of course, any tip is invaluable for me since I'm trying to buy my first car
@@juanchisaenz9476 Want to know how to buy a used car? Buy it off a one owner, or two owner, elderly/older, maintained at dealerships, ask for paperwork if they have it. And... you can never go wrong :)
i am a teacher showing these videos to my high school students taking Financial Algebra. real life math! thank you!
You win teacher of the year for that one
Practical, real world applications in grade school education is far less common than it should be. Kudos.
@@dantizzle00 thanks!
They took the W teacher, wish my teachers were like you.
That's awesome! I would have loved a lesson like this.
When my mum was looking for a new car she found a used 13' VW Golf she loved. I am glad I went with her though. While I didn't know about this checklist, I went through most of these points anyway and found out that it had missed it's 70k miles service and timing belt change. I managed to knock about $3k off the asking price of $7k (We are in the UK here)
The reason I got so much knocked off is because it is about 750 to get it done at our local VW garage and we also needed to put new tires and the breaks needed to be completely replaced.
Did the breaks my self thanks to a Chris Fix vid, but wasn't confident enough to tackle the belt.
I'm happy to see you got the car for a good price!
Seem's an honest seller because they wouldn't usually tell you about issues that have existed and that they have been fixed ...they usually try to make it look perfect as possible
True!
@Mike G Not me. I show them flaws they never would have found in a test drive so they know they're not dealing with some lying sack of sh** cheater. I try never to cheat a buyer, and the first customer to come over almost always ends up buying my car. They're always super clean when I sell them, and I'm very up front about what they're getting. (I’m not as totally awesome a detailer as ChrisFix, but I’m pretty good at it)
I noticed during Chris' intial call the owner didnt say anything about the hood latch cable? Maybe he forgot.
fenderstratguy yes, people appreciate honesty.
@@fenderstratguy have any left?
VIN number = vehicle identification number number
yep haha
Thanks
LED diode is the same :D
@@gkgameplaycz I never hear that, but ATM machine, and for servicemembers, CAC card. Central Access Card Card. Brilliant.
@@drippingwax we often say in czech "LED dioda (LED diode)"
Omg I can't believe I watched this like 4 years ago and was like "I will need to know this when I get my first car" and I just got mine a few days ago, I followed all the steps and I got a great deal! It is insane how much information you put in your videos! I got my dream first car because of following these steps, keep up the amazing work Chris!
Not to intrude, but here are some precursors you can check before you check the car out:
1. A 200k+ mile motor is going to be pretty worn-down, so ask the owner if it's ever been rebuilt. Contrary to popular belief, a car with a rebuilt motor or transmission with these kinds of miles often means the person cared enough about the car to keep it running. But remember! The keyword is "rebuilt," not "replaced." You don't want to skimp on this distinction, because a lot of car shops will replace a bad motor with an old motor (sometimes even older than the one that failed!), and that can spell bad news down the line. The same can be said for transmissions and other components that have been replaced, so it's always helpful to ask first.
2. Avoid "KBB costs." Often times, when you're looking for a deal, people will try to cite the Kelly Blue Book price estimate for the vehicle, and more often than not, that's because this person has no experience with cars, so they default to something they think is fair. In the end, you may get little things that can add up to a lot, like joints, filters, mounts, and other things that can go bad slowly over the life of the car without the owner noticing. This can lead to repairs that can double the KBB cost of the car! The answer here is to obviously check carefully before you buy, but if you have a decent price with someone religiously citing KBB, be on your toes or avoid it entirely.
3. The "Mechanic's Special." This simply means that there was an issue the owner couldn't fix themselves, so they leave it to a mechanic. This varies in difficulty from headlights to CV axles, to extensive body damage, but the most common issue is a failed engine or transmission. If you see "mechanic's special" in the title, click with caution! Remember to ask what exact symptoms the car is exhibiting, and do your own research on what it could be. Knowledge is power, and this could help you greatly in the long-run.
4. Be careful of terms like "you won't find this lower anywhere!" or "I know the cost of this car, so no lowballs!" Often times, this can - and probably will - be followed up with a price lowering in the next few weeks, or a car will pop up with the same specs for much, much lower. There are exceptions, but this is the rule. In general, I personally don't like to get involved with these people. Sometimes you can get somewhere, but often they won't even let you pop the hood, so be wary.
5. Don't meet up and inspect the first car you come across. Often times, a car will have hidden common issues that no one wants to admit to, but if you look around, you see patterns that are too large to be coincidental. A famous example is the early Northstar Cadillac (1995-2004), where it was common for the cylinder heads to fail after a certain amount of years or miles. You won't find much official information on this, and the only way to glean this information sometimes is to research other models for sale. Be sure to look around with the car you're interested in, and see what the most common issues you run across are, as well as how expensive it would be to fix, or even if you can replace the part with an aftermarket substitute that solves the problem entirely. Or, if you're not set on a particular make or model, just move on.
6. Beware of scams (this is the more obvious and less useful information). This shouldn't need to be said, but if you find an immaculate ten-year-old car with only 60k miles on it and the owner is generously selling for a couple hundred dollars, be wary! Giving them your e-mail can put it on a lot of companies' mailing list, and your phone number can be further sold to scammers, and good ones, too! Always practice personal protection; if it looks too good to be true, it probably is. A helpful tip on this is to look for multiple listings of the same vehicle in different states. This is easiest on Craigslist, where clicking "include nearby areas" will pull up listings from nearby states, allowing those multiple posts to list consecutively.
7. I can't remember if it was listed in the video, but please remember to STAY SAFE. When setting up a viewing, insist on viewing the car in a public place, with a lot of potential witnesses. This carries a few benefits, one being that it makes it harder for the person selling to rob you. Public places are also often easy access to roads for further personal test driving, which can be useful for obvious reasons. Remember, if they shut down the idea, it's safer to just avoid it altogether. If you want to buy a car that runs, and they can't even make it down the street to the local WalMart, it's not worth your time anyways. Remember to check your rear-view for the vehicle if you don't buy it, as well, and pull into a police station if you discover them following you. Be observant, smart ones will follow a few cars behind at all times. Always bring a buddy, and again, STAY SAFE.
These are a few rules I can think of off the top of my head. If I missed anything, feel free to hit the "reply" button so we can keep this information in one place. Once again, knowledge is power, and the more you know, the more likely you are to come out on top!
Awesome tips, will help me and others out. Most people never think of the safety tips. Thanks!
Funny part is i put cheapest one in my state and i sell my stuff all the time so what u said is not true
Awesome tips! I do have a question though, is it worth it to buy a used Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 with 86k miles on it for $5000?
Bullshit. My E46 has a bit over 500k miles and the engine has never been rebuilt and goes like sting.
@@SuperAlexVr yeah I don't think this dude knows that some engines can go a million miles (Lexus). Lol 200k is like 40k for some cars ....
This is a fantastic series of videos on buying a used car. I used these strategies for a recent purchase at a dealership, and although they didn't budge on the price (deep in the middle of the chip shortage), I got them to include new tires (even though the existing ones were okay), a new battery, and a brake fluid flush. The checklist is priceless.
how much are used cars from dealerships now? trying to buy one now and early 2000s cars are 10K+ which is absurd to me.
@mpleading2588 yeah the used car market is crazy RN.
In my area it's around 5k for a used low mileage vehicle
@@thatgui88 that doesn't seem too bad for a clean low mileage used car....6 years ago I got a high mileage salvage 2013 Impala for $5k, not a good deal 🤣 it stopped running 2 weeks ago
I normally look at 2002-2005 Hondas and Toyota. They are a bit pricy even when they are old
@@stephE80oh sorry to hear that
Love how Chris sticks to the subject and keep the information coming! No chit chat and unnecessary dragged out information about other semi- related things! Nice channel!
Question 1. Do you own this car?
Question 2. May I see your ID and the car title to see if the names match?
Then you know if the seller is flipping the car for someone else or "curbstoning" you.
+Buick Mackane Great tip!
Unless theyve done things legally and transfered the car into their name.
This pertains esp. Helpful if not tied to dealership
Buick Mackane great tip! Thanks!
What does curbstoning mean?
@@luismozotorres7428 It's when a dealer pretends to be a private seller
In some places you can meet in a police department parking lot if the person seems real shady or if you are scared.
Great tip!
ChrisFix why does it show you with 10 million subs
He's just that popular.
@@chrisfix hey Chris, could you maybe help out with some vin check usefull sites for EU ppl also? Thanks 🙂
hey Chris! Just wanted to give you an update and also a HUGE thank-you!! I went into this process badly needing to know what to do with no clue how to start and what to look for, and nervous I was gonna get overcharged or stuck with something awful when I don't have much money to start with. These vids were empowering; they gave me the know-how to approach this process with confidence. Your checklist is also a phenomenal tool, thanks so much for making it available for free!! By the time I found a solid side-of-the-road car I already knew what to look for and what I needed to ask the owner. The one I picked should last me for at least a few years, and it wouldn't have been possible without your resources.
Anytime in the future I have any doubt on how to handle anything car-related, the first thing I'll do is come back to your RUclips channel, and I'll also point anyone I know who's stuck with these problems to you too.
don't buy a car that already has warm engine. u wanna hear cold start.
another tip is, when the engine bay is super clean or appears to be cleaned recently means the seller is trying to hide something.
3rd, make sure the seller is not stopping you from looking at something at detail. for instance you are looking at the trunk and looking or pulling the carpet at the trunk and the owner is stopping you from doing that let's say by saying don't pull the carpets it might fall off or other excuses, means he or she is trying to hide something.
4th, don't ever look at car body work when it is raining, you will be amazed what water can hide
+ladies man Thanks for the tips!
if you started taking my car apart while test driving it I would beat you. I think just about every person in the world at least tries to clean an engine bay on a car, even if they are not selling it. It helps you nothing any new leaks or unusual happenings. Take the car into a reputable mechanic, AT HIS SHOP, someone that will really look it over, test compression, put a boroscope in the valve cover, and put it on a lift to check drivetrain and brakes, and suspension components. A real stickler may send a sample of the fluids off to see what the composition tells you. (;
Probably depends if you are buying a $1k work truck or a $40k used Porsche 911.
A mechanic shouldnt charge more than a few hundred to properly check out a vehicle but no less either. I wouldnt pull out a compression test kit on a 6 or 8 cylinder for under 100 bucks ...then test driving, and on the lift for 30 mins...take off wheels and inspect brakes...
+jonathan mcadams Why whould i buy a shitty car just to dump more money in a mechanic? are you dumb?
That is bullshit advice. I ALWAYS clean the engine bay! It prevents excessive heat. Also a clean engine bay exposes leaks easier.. after a 30 min test drive, park under a clean area and you will QUICKLY find any leaks if there are any.
@@emanu1674 Who says its a shitty car? Look buddy I have 5 cars myself, 1 bike and 4 cars, 2014 Lexus Is 350, 2014 Focus St, 2004 Rx 330, 1987 944 Turbo, and a 2006 R6. I dont really buy shitty cars. Why would you not want to have a shop with a lift and a compression test done to your car. I buy cars that tend to be abused ie sports cars and higher powered luxury vehicles. It was a bargain to pay that for me. It saved me from buying a 1986 944 turbo that had 35 lbs off on piston number 3. It doeant nessesarily mean its blown but it let me know that wasnt my car. Ended up buying a Guards red 87 with 103k miles on it, mint, belts just done, new clutch, 6,500 cash. It has since gotten a K27 turbo upgrade, ecu reprogrammed, and a larger intercooler and bov. Top end ported and polished, three angle valve job, and cometic head gasket...few other odds and ends. cold starts are rough but once it warms it runs great. I think the bung i welded for the coolant sensor is sitting in the wrong place and needs to be relocated. Anyway I digress.
You probably have bought a handful of cars in your life, I do it weekly punk.
Just used your videos to get a great deal on a 2008 chevy malibu with only 38000 miles, thanks Chris!
+Erik Olsen awesome!!!! That's what I like to hear!
ChrisFix
I started my driving journey with my dad during my senior year of high school. When I moved out of state for college it was put on pause. Now that I have graduated I'm finally starting my journey over but without my dad. I really appreciate these videos because I get to learn everything my dad would've taught me. Now I feel confident that dealerships and sellers won't take advantage of me because I'm a girl. You got a subscriber out of me! Thanks for what you do.
I've bought and sold dozens of used cars as a hobby. He is right on the money with all his tips and tricks. There's a lot to know when it comes to buying a used car. Unfortunately there are a lot of hurdles to navigate out there... Luckily, ChrisFix is helping us navigate them.
THANKS CHRIS!
+Michael Arrick (EMpowerME) Thanks Michael!!!
the suspense is real for that test drive video!!!
Ikr
+Eggward1011 WHEN WELL IT BE UPLOADED !!!
+1000 subs no vids It says it'll be out Thursday
Mz Phat Peachz ?
+1000 subs no vids I am aiming for Friday or if I am still editing, saturday!
I like your voice. You seem like you'd make a good friend.
i totally had anxiety while you were on the phone with the owner haha
+Jonny DIY haha
😂😂😂
I'm always sure to have some of that, and a can of elbow grease in the garage. Both very important products to keep handy.
Jonny DIY haha meee toooo hahah
Me too.
another test is sticking your finger in the exhaust, you can tell if it's running rich or burning oil, if your finger comes out relatively clean, the engine is running fine.
I learned that one from my neighbor nice tip.
Yeah, if it's cold and you didn't just shut it off. (Coming from one who burned his finger in an exhaust pipe when I was 4.)
Purchased 2001 Ram truck one owner 120,000 miles on it for $3200.00 cash, drove it to work for 4 years. Got A Texas air check voucher for $3000.00 at trade in for A 2011 Ram. Still have the 2011 going strong for 9 years, last 5 years without A payment. THAT IS HOW IT IS DONE! Thank You.
you SHOULD be proud of that check list. Good job sir and thank you.
Ideally you should go to their home to look over the car. I know it's "safer" to meet in a public place, but it means that you can check to see if they live where the car is registered. You can also get an idea of how well the car is likely to be looked after - if the home is run down and lacking care, then chances are the the car is treated the same. And if they say it's a family car, but the house looks like a bachelor pad...
You can also ask them to leave the car and not start it up, so you get to hear it from cold - something you can't really do if you meet somewhere.
+mrman17 That is a great tip! I couldnt film at the guys house haha but I like how you are thinking! Great tips man!
Excellent video. I sold cars for about 10 years. One thing, I see a lot where I am now is scammers selling "salvage", "rebuilt" "scrap" cars without telling the buyer they have no value, can not be financed, And can not ever be covered by "full coverage" insurance.
Thanks for sharing!
How do you politely ask if its salvaged/rebuilt?
@@qwa5870 what makes you think it's not polite to ask? It's business... and its a fair question. Youll find out when you car fax it anyway.
@@qwa5870
Just ask: "Is the title clean and may I please see it now."
Thanks chris.
Guy wanted 2500 for the car i bought
I paid 1300 :) It was super clean and no issues i got a steal!
Damnnnnn wtf you so lucky!!!
What car big guy
Yeah bullshit he dropped it half price
Wish i could buy a car for a $1000+ in Singapore...
@@ryanongjh fr tho anyth here is way overpriced...
For KBB you should go by the Private Party price, not the trade-in. You'll be insulting most people if you ask for the trade in prices which range from Fair, Good, Very Good, and Excellent. You make the determination based on inspection of the car and negotiage from there. Never pay more than 25% more than KBB Excellent value. Cargo vans are notorious for this, some being priced up to 200% over KBB Excellent value.
Age of Reason Yes this. I was confused as hell when I looked up a car and it said something like KBB valued for 5700 and the trade in was 3000 and thought “I’m gonna get ripped off” until I changed it to the private party and it said “4800-6300”
A neighbor wanted to sell me a truck. I had not see this vid. We did a test drive. But I insisted we take it to a dealership to get this mutt checked. He wanted $8500. The dealership said it would cost $13,000 to totally fix. Needless to say, "No Sale." They say there's a sucker born every minute. Thank God I'm not one of them. Gratitude for sharing this information.
When it comes to the used car market, you get what you pay for 98% of the time. Getting a good deal should not mean anything more than getting what you pay for.
Keep it simple....
1. If it's too good to be true.... it probably .....
2. Mostly highway miles my ASS
3. Women-driven does not mean anything
4. Since when does A/C + power windows and doors makes a car fully loaded?
5. On newer cars, the smallest issues will cost a fortune to replace/repair. Junk yards don't have the parts, aftermarket parts are either not available yet or are still very expensive.
Krevin Grard Very true!Major red flag.My sis blew every motor in every car she had.She never changes the oil.
@@karigreyd2808 Excuse me but please do not Class all women tbe same. I check my oil once a month or whenever I am doing a log journey. Mine have alternating between minor service and major service every 6 months.
@@debbiepeter112 read before reactin, your comment is pointless
@@terrenceduarte5348 Why is it pointless? The comment I responded to has been deleted!!!!
@@terrenceduarte5348 I await your apology..
You are awesome, Chris. This is a VERY helpful video. I'm sending others your way because this is so helpful. Thank-you!
+Living In A Van Thank you very much! Besides watching the video, sharing is the best way you can help me out!
Living In A Van I
I just subbed. @chrisfix is fantastic and has taught me so much about cars. Thanks Chris, keep it up, super grateful!
250. Liker
Also leave money in bank or at home not in car. Great advice with everything else though. Awesome. Thanks
Don't forget the first vital question: "Do you have the title?"
MrGeno1951 lol i know a couple people fucked by that. One guy bought a car from a guy who was the proper owner but didn't have the title signed over. Wonder how it was even registered. Then the guy was arrested for something and wasnt responding to the guy i know, but eventually got out and got him the proper title
writing in the wrong area of the title pretty much invalidates the car. it's a painful mistake to make. .
Step 1: Don't buy a Jaguar.
what's wrong with a jaggy? it's Ford under the sheet metal
+No username Not anymore, now it's Tata motors under the hood (a brand from India). But yeah this one was probably made during the Ford period.
+ViscountStratton Tata motors jags are pretty good.
this is a Ford, I got one, got fomoco stamped on just about everything.
+tyler jackson Nice. Any reliability issues? seems like a lot of people hate the Jaggy for some reason, personally I would like it just because it's got fomoco parts
Chris puts his heart and soul into these videos...how can you not like it. Great work Chris..and Thanks!
Been waiting for this video for ever
right!
hell yeah
+A$AP BiSHOP same here! fingers crossed for Thursday...
+A$AP BiSHOP A$AP BISH
How to buy a used car.
First tip: do not buy a used British luxury car.
Now, there's always exceptions to rules.
However, I can confidently say that the first tip applies, absolutely and without any exception, to a Jaguar X-Type.
+Watcher3223 hahaha
+Watcher3223
Depends on the deal
+Watcher3223 It's a fruity 2003 Ford Mondeo. Except it's 4WD. (that's the clincher)
+69Phuket Not really, it shares the chassis but saying it is a Mondeo is like saying a Touareg is the same as a Cayenne because they both share the same platform too, or any one of vehicles from many manufacturers that share a common platform.
Matthew Sharpe Yeah. The Saab 9000 was far better than the Lancia Thema or Fiat Croma equivalents.
Just wanted to say thanks Chris. You're an awesome person and I appreciate everything you do for the community. Happy New Year too!
Thanks Steve!
I agree on that.
Thank you for checklist. Now it wont be so overwhelming when I see a used car on side of the road!!
You Rock!
Lol, when they say soccer mom car, beware.
Why
@@ltagames01 terrible maintenance, poorly treated car, etc
@@user-yk9sz9mh1t mean not necessarily
@@ltagames01 just the majority lol
@@ltagames01 lmao its not mean its usually true. its usually not their fault, theyre just using the car to get from point a to point b so they either 1. wont care or 2. dont have the time to keep up w the maintenence. also kids r rutheless and ruin car interiors lol
Excellent advice Chris! One exception. Don't bring the money. Not on your person or car. Meet later after the negotiation and after you see the title. Pay then!
I usually ask for their license and registration just make sure the car is under their name, and also their title for the vehicle. My uncle bough a Nissan Altima a few years back for $13,000 off of craigslist, and when he took the papers to the dmv they said it was actually a rental car. He lost all of his money sadly but at least I learned a lesson! A very expensive lesson loool
+Farzad Fazel who would buy a car from a private seller without getting the actual title in hand?
+oldtwins he actually had the title but it was a fake 😬
+Farzad Fazel that's pretty awful. Makes me want to finalize a purchase at a DMV.
@@oldtwins right
Oh wow
I love how thorough and thoughtful Chris is with whatever topic he is addressing.
You should be given an award for helping out people like this man. Thanks. Much appreciated.
This came out at the perfect time because I'm looking at a car tomorrow
Hey Chris, its great you're making all these useful and awesome unexpected videos!! But please also don't forget the police car project, in the next one you said you would do all the wiring up of the switches and maybe you could even update the center console, which some people said wasn't the best. The storage compartment was too deep, it would be inconvenient to manage things back there. However, you're still the best car dude around and your videos are better than any others' so keep yourself motivated and thanks!
+Chinmay Gupta Don't complain and enjoy the free content.
Thank you, Chris Fix for providing this amazing resource.
Questions on buying a car:
-Why is it important to not get emotional while trying to buy a used car?
-Have you ever been in a situation where someone tried to steal your wallet or did you hear about that from a friend?
-If you don't see a price tag on the used car, why is it not worth your time to pursue? Is it because they end up asking for an outrageous price or they don't know the price or what?
-What if you're trying to buy a car from a dealership as a woman and your dealing with a salesman who is using high pressure sales techniques? What would you do? (Or a man and the salesman is still using high pressure sales techniques)
-Have you ever come across a time where the body of the car looked good but when you looked under the hood, it was a rusty, icky mess?
Whatever questions you can answer on your channel would be stupendous and I tend to do my own research as well but to hear the answers from someone who has a plethora of experience in buying cars would be super helpful. Thank you!
Hey, so i'm not Chris but i have my answer for your first question: It's important to not get emotional for a few reasons..
1. to be able to back out if it's starting to look or feel shady and not be caught up with your feeling of "loving this car off" or "absolutely having to buy it"
2. allows you not to seem so interested by the car, the dealer can tell and then might use that against you in trying to sell it/things that are just okay. Also, he could bargain less with you if he feels he has you on the hook.
3. So you don't feel too bad if the car is bogus and you have to say no
4. Make him think you're a difficult buyer, and allow you to do more things to be satisfied or reassured because you he might feel you can just pass up on him. And if he's been waiting to sell that car, he won't let that opportunity slip by too easily. That's why he cracked in the end.. he bluffed to the max but when he saw the guy was "really" leaving, and had little time to rethink his position, he felt it could be his only option soon...
For the high pressure salesman/woman:
Go on google and research about the car. Write down the basics, the specs, what reviews and people think of it good and bad and stick to the facts. Sellers will try to find a leverage argument, so an argument that speaks to you and might try many. He aim is to convince you so don't feel convinced to easily and realise when he sounds convincing.
You can also ask him questions to make him not get carried away to much as a salesman is supposed to be confident and dependable.. so if you take that power away by making him a bit less credible, he'll advise you more then he'll actually tell you "this is the best", and it'll make you look like a less gullible person.
Questions such as:
How long have you been working here?
Is buisness good?
Does this car sell good?
(Slip in some research to show you're still aware of things like "i heard this car is a difficult sell" or "..has issues with blablabla, have you heard of any?".
This is a trick question to show you know some shit despite his answer so he/she better not try to do you for a dummy)
Flatter them:
You seem like an honest person, do people tell you that? (You'll see if he blushes or takes pride in that or hesitates and changes subject or stays professional unbudged which is a sign of a cold hard seller which will be harder to decipher)
What car do you drive? Why that one? Did you get it here? (If not: why not? Seems like you could get a good discount working here..)
I hear all your arguments but just to let you know, i'll still have to think about it
And yeah.. keep to the facts. He'll use fscts to argue, but normally won't change the facts.
Google also:
What to ask a dealership salesman/woman
How to avoid getting scammed by salesmen/women?
Etc.
A year later but good luck
Always check for uneven tire wear. It could help you avoid expensive repairs.
That's a good rhyme:
Uneven tire wear
Can lead to expensive repair
Great video Chris! The checklist is good stuff. I can't fault you for anything really, so I would only add a few bits that I may have before on part one of this.
Take a tape measure in addition to the flashlight, and a friend. Because reports on VIN searches can omit accident damage info, it helps to do a basic X measurement with the hood up. This will show quickly if the unibody chassis has been twisted or tweeked. Also, look at the bolts that hold on the fenders on both right and left of the top of the engine bay. Those are painted after assembly at the factory, so the bolts should have the same even coat of paint as the rest of underhood area of the car. If there is paint scraped off those bolts, like as if a socket has removed them, then put them back on, then it's clear that its' been in an accident.
If you find other things wrong, they can be negotiating points that the buyer can use to reduce the cost. Example, if you drive in very slow circles in a parking lot, one full circle in each direction with the steering wheel fully locked. If it makes clicking sounds, or acts like it's rolling over bumps that aren't there, then it likely has a CV axle that is bad. Those are not hard to replace in reality, but you could tell the owner that could be a CV axle, or the transmission going out, either way that will take shop time and cost to repair, and it could be very expensive. I've had the cost of a car reduced greatly for that. I say that specifically because many Chrysler minivans have factory service bulletins that say the side of the tranny can blow out litteraly, if the driver tries to gun it faster while slipping on ice or snow.
I used your awesome checklist to buy a used car from a dealer and they replaced the GPS and fixed the running boards and sticking hood, but I didn't think to make a deal on a second key. After the fact, I went to a locksmith to make a second key and they said the emergency key inside the fob doesn't fit the lock on the door, so that might be something to add to your fantastic list, cuz it really was super helpful. I think that was the only thing not on there!
Thank you so much! I am so ignorant when it comes to cars and I don't want to be taken advantage of by any sellers
Can't wait for part 3:)
+GameTV It'll probably be out in a month :/
Chris is really a helpful guy... The owners might hate you but we like you. :)
Don't forget to listen to the owner's voice and stories. It explains if hes lying or if hes truthful.
Great tips, thanks a bunch Chris. You've surely helped many people in their process in restoring, fixing or buying cars. I think this is great, just wanted say this because it means a lot to me and surely others that you take time to film these videos and share your knowledge about cars :D Have a great day!
An important research step is to look at the maintenance schedule of the car. See what maintenance is due soon based on the mileage of the car. Remember the previous owner could have skipped earlier scheduled maintenance, and you must do it after buying the car if so.
So view the maintenance schedule to give you points to negotiate down the price of a car as maintenance can be expensive, and so you know what needs to be done after buying the car to keep it healthy and avoid expensive/catastrophic failures. (example below)
E.g. A timing belt change is critical and expensive maintenance done every 10 years or 100,000 miles on a lot of cars (some have a chain which doesn't normally need changing). If unchanged, the timing belt gets weak enough to snap and destroy the engine. If you have to do a timing belt service, it costs at least a few hundred dollars (maybe more) but it's absolutely necessary to change on time.
The previous owner may not even know it needs to be done, like one I chatted with recently. An extra point is on some engines, the accessory belt is as important to change as the timing belt because they are close together, and if the accessory belt snaps it could cause failure of the timing belt and therefore engine damage.
The easiest way to know these quirks and "secret knowledge" is to talk to a mechanic experienced with that car brand and model, though online searches on car forums will also find this in depth info.
Could you possibly make a video on what to change/fix/service when you've bought a used car that you don't know everything about? Like a top 5 or top 10?
This is a good idea!
I am certified ASE I always say there is tags, insurance, and tune up. Spark plugs air filter oil and filter brakes and rotors. If the coolant looks bad go ahead and do it too. But those are the first things I get out of the way due to the fact that you have no idea when they where last changed or if they even have been changed. Now you have a clean slate and better gas mileage.
Thank you so much for the videos and the checklists you made! I feel much more confident looking at used cars now. What a great tool your lists are so you should be proud of them! 😊 Again, thanks Chris!
This man is a beast. This video exceeded my expectations.
Thank you for making this, Chris. I wish I had this to review a long time ago when i bought my first used car. This will definitely help a lot of first time buyers. Thumbs up!
+Auto Enthused I am glad you learned a lot and it is helpful!
Great video man keep up the good work
+Zackary Wynne Thanks a lot!
Chris u just hooked me up with a 2016 Honda Accord thanks man ur the best!!! 7k for 49,000k mile car and had absolutely nothing wrong with it only some scratches and the smell of cigarette smoke other than that its amazing
Damn dawg that’s a steal
4:09 "Good idea to bring a fle...ASH light." Nice save
I wished 8 would have waited for this video before I got my car. I bought it at Downtown Nissan in Nashville Tennessee (yes I am blasting them). i got a 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe for $13k out of the door, but the original was $15k out of the door. They gave us two keys, one belongs to the car and the other one doesn't belong to it. We test drove this at night and we didn't see the scratches on it and when I parked it, it was under a pavilion with bright lights and I didn't know the driver side underglow was broken till I got home and they won't fix it, I went back and told them and they said that we needed to pay $200 for inspection and over $75 to rewire the led, and I also asked about the key and they said that we need to pay $250-300 to get the key fob reprogramed. Just never go to Downtown Nissan in Nashville Tennessee. They are a terrible dealership and Andrew was the guy selling me the car.
Awesome job dude, trough those links to check the car's history I found out that the car I was buying hadn't original mileage when the dude selling it claimed those are the original mileage... God bless you always
Chrisfix, this is totally EXCELLENT!
Bro I apreciate what your doing man you're actually one of the good ones wich makes you the best ones, keep it up there's not much left and again thank you very much.
THANK YOU. I was considering buying a beautiful low mileage 9th gen corolla but I used your salvage checker link and found out it had been in a rear end collision that compromised its frame. I test drove it today and it was a great car overall and I could not tell that there was a single thing wrong with the car other than a few things the buyer disclosed like a wheel bearing. saved me from a bad purchase.
This is great Chris. If you have no experience with cars then this will be able to help anyone out! Thanks for sharing it and great work!
Dude you're impressive! Appreciate the thoroughness, keep making videos :)
Very helpful. I've bought 3 cars since I first saw this years ago. Much more confident when I meet people.
Glad it was helpful and great to hear!
4 years and do you respond lets see
I still read and respond to as many comments as I can!
😂
give this man a round of applause for his dedication. :D xD
What legend
❤️
Another helpful tip: If u see a Car with a Jaguar Badge on it, Turn around, Run as fast as u can
@Buzz Lightyear then why don't u buy a jag
@Buzz Lightyear oh really. Good luck with the bills lol
Biggest most important thing I think is make sure clean title and history of oil changes documented...if a car hasn't gotten regular oil changes it's been abused.
Thank you! I'm now a proud owner of a 2011 Ford Ranger XLT!
My father has been thinking of thinking about maybe buying a Jaguar S-type, about the same year as this one or around early 2000's and I got to see it today. What a coincidence!
+Nimmei prefect timing!
+Nimmei Wish you luck but I sure wouldn't buy one at any price.
+shawno009 comparing maintenance between jag and MB isnt that great of a thing....personally if i was buying a luxury vehicle I would buy a lexus
+shawno009 That's not true, had a S-Type that had 65k miles and the transmission went out. The fake wood cracked on the dash, power doors failed. Also, Jaguar maintenance isn't cheap. Go buy a Lexus LS with 200k miles and it'll be more reliable than a Jaguar S-TYpe
+Nimmei these rich photography dudes on youtube said jags are gas guzzlers...but honestly when jags, mercedes, etc are a dime a dozen in used car lots you have to wonder are they reliable or an arm and leg to repair?
I'm glad you pointed to the "Trade In Value" because these values online are often ridiculous & to many people swear by them when they are selling cars. I miss the old days when someone stated what they wanted & you go from there. Having these values determining sites created a lot of resellers that take junk cars & flip them & rip people off. Some cars are way over priced because the amount it cost to work on them is not cheap. When buying a used car you can assume with certainty that its gonna need some work while you have it. If you DIY then that may not a big factor. That trade in value is closer to the true value & if the guy dropped from 3500 to 2999 you know he'll drop a little more. Finding good cars that's been sitting a while can be your best bargains cause people get tired of dealing with trying to sell it. They are still paying insurance & have to hope no one damages it if they just park it somewhere. Also if they are parking it out in the open odds are they aren't using the internet much. 10 years+ ago you could find good deal's for a few hundred dollars. Anyway great video as usual.
Very professional report
+Larkinchance thank you!
oh, quick question, 2004 RAVI4,..manuel transmission. is there need for worry?
no worries, if its 2,0 vvti gasoline, it´s the most reliable car in the world
+Larkinchance yeah same body styles between the two, and same trim models ex-l.
@@beefcurtainz69to
If any one is having trouble accessing the link. Try deleting the .php at the end of the web address. like so others can see this.
Thanks that worked for me!
I always tell people if they don't know what their looking at. Take the car to a dealer (If your looking at a Jaguar, take it to a Jaguar dealership), and have the service guy do a used car inspection on it. You will pay for 1 hour of their labor rate (will usually cost anywhere from $120-$150), but they will let you know if anything is messed up, needs brakes, major leaks, any recalls, they can look up the warranty history and tell you if anything major was replaced....And if you are waiting at the dealership, sometimes the advisor can take you back there so you can have a look at the underside. And if the car is too bad, you only lost $150 rather than thousands...
Thanks for the tip!
Wow so much information :O so good but I also feel like it's over my head. I need to study this more. 24 year old female about to move across the country alone... I need a car when I get to the state. Trying to do as much research as I can.
So these vids are absolute life-savers. They are going to be my Bible as I go into this process for the first time for myself, and they’re really helping me feel empowered by giving me some idea of what I’m doing, which is drastically different than how overwhelmed I was feeling by this whole thing at first. So firstly, thank you for making these so comprehensive!!!!!
I just found a used car at the side of the road for sale, and it’s nothing special but it’s what I’m looking for, right make/model/price/years/clean title. But the thing is, the guy DOES sell cars on the side/sounds like he works with a dealership. Is this on its own really a big red flag to walk away from? Or what red flags should I be on the lookout for while we’re chatting- any specific questions I should be asking, for example?
Any advice is appreciated
I wouldnt say it's a red flag but def ask him questions. Did he fix anything or did he get the car from the auction in good shape?
@@chrisfix thank you!!
Chris with the crazy amount of cars on sale for lower prices due to covid this video is a godsend! Thank you so much
That "Don't be afraid to walk away" made me retaliate my will to buy a used car. My introvert self could never.
Don’t ever feel bad if the car isn’t worth it or not as advertised, it’s not your problem at all. Shake hands, say “thank you for your time” and walk away
Omg! You are ma nga!! A dealership was seln a $6 grand jaguar, with same issues, u saved me money!
This video is the definition of perfection. What a tremendous help this is. Thank you.
Dee , you lost your mind , this video is harmful to anybody who wants to buy a used car . TOTAL GARBAGE !!
@@martinko4086 you have tips?!
@@Brian-of6js YES , put the ADD out there " I BUY cars for cash !! ...and have people who need immediate cash bringing cars to you . than it is a lot easier to negotiate .
now I have to go put pants on, so I can check my VIN
+DarkDarkPrincess haha
+DarkDarkPrincess You don't necessarily HAVE to.
same
+ChrisFix thanks chris , like seriously thanks man
Fantastic job and thanks for the video.
+gatorgotme Thanks!
+ChrisFix Hey Chris, do you know when the next video will be out? Nice work
ChrisFix One thing I didn't see mentioned was mileage. Is there anyway to tell if the mileage on the vehicle is original?
I know some sellers that might be trying to pull a fast one will mess with the odometer to show something different then what's actually on the car.
Thanks
Chris Fix is the baddest man on RUclips when it comes to all things concerning cars!!!!
Can't wait for the next part.
Good on Frank letting you film, too. :P
+SGM 26 frank thinks jags are good in snow lol...2 wheel drive anything is a real snow cat
+infringinator it's an awd..
Austin Alexander make sure you get that factory clearcoat included in...Gus down in fargo might talk to his manager about not charging for the clearcoat...
Helpful tip: never buy cars Haggard Garage style aka buying shit boxes in the middle of the pitch black night, listening to the sketchy owner talking up the car lol
Unless you have weed and can do a straight trade ;).
Any video of that happening?! Haha
+Po Russki look through their videos. You'll find a bunch
Comparing Chris to Haggard Garage is like comparing Brokeback Mountain to Dragon Ball Z. They're in totally different leagues.
+/ Clapsist I'll sell you my s14. Runs great. original engine. has a tune with nistune. never been tracked. I baby he, have had her for 3 years. $3000
I wish I had found you sooner so I could’ve known what to look for when I bought my truck. Nothing wrong with the truck but there were a lot of things I missed out on. Love your videos, man! Subscribed in an instant.
I travel 1hr 10 mins everyday to get to work and 1hr 30 mins to get home finally I've saved enough to get a car but this is the difficult part for me