Small Edge Finger Strength (The on-wall exercise to improve your climbing!)
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- In this video Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about how to get your finger strength training to better transfer to on-wall performance and improved climbing ability.
Finger strength is not the only factor that helps climbers get better. In fact, increases in finger strength will not always translate to improved climbing. Becoming a better climber involves improving your strength but then learning how to effectively apply it to the walls both inside and out.
Dr. Nelson will talk about how to become more coordinated on smaller holds and how to organize your training plan to include finger strength and on-wall climbing sessions.
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0:00 Start
0:55 Off-Wall Adaptations
1:19 Previous Video Review
2:13 Coordination
5:53 Transfer Strength to Climbing
8:29 Wall-Crawl Protocols
11:18 Final Recommendations
12:52 Advanced Climber Protocols
Loved the video! This is a much better platform for your content than IG, IMHO
Thank you so much for the feedback! Yeah, we love the ability to actually spend time detailing concepts here that IG just doesn’t let us do. We’ll continue to do both, but lean into YT with lots of effort. Thanks again!!
Thanks a lot for this video. I like the lesson-style presentation a lot, a great relief from the other entertainment-focussed videos out there
Thanks Martin! We appreciate the feedback 🤘
stoked on these videos Tyler! keep the quality content coming.
Thank you for the feedback!! It is really appreciated!
Wow! YT videos from Dr Tyler!! Great stuff!! Keep them coming.
Thanks Kurt. Be sure to share with your friends. We are trying to grow this channel!
C4HP content has really been a game changer for me. Ive been climbing for 20 years, training seriously for the past 5 years. incorporating your training methods for about 6 months now and I’ve seen big gains all around. Thanks a lot 🙏🏻
That’s so awesome to hear! Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback!
🤘
Fantastic communication! Well laid out, slowly spoken, and very clear! Thanks Tyler!
Thank you so much for the feedback! Lots of work goes into these but it’s all worth it when we hear it communicates things well! Share with your friends if you can, thank you!!
Thank you so much guys! You are the best!
Thanks for the feedback! Share with your friends!
This is fantastic. Probably the best training video I've seen. Rather than another "scam" video. Thanks!!!
Great content without all the hype thanks for your work
Thanks Adam, we apprecaite that.
I wrote pobably 80% ow what was said in this video down and will implement it. Thank you so much for this value.
Excellent video
Thanks 🙏
Great video ! Thanks !
thanks for the support. Please like and share as you see fit.
This video is so great. Thanks for the clear thinking and applicable programming
Anytime! Thank you so much for the feedback!!
🤘 thanks Seth
I do like how simple this system is (though it may not come across initially). Been following the prior protocall for a while now. Im going to gently add this in, and am excited to see how it goes!
Great, thanks for the feedback.
The wall crawl is what was missing from my finger training routine. I’m banks for posting. Good stuff.
Thanks, Paul. Appreciate the feedback.
Always climbing small edges every session, it feels amazing when noticing that endurance has increased. This form of training improves handling all other grips and helps find other weaknesses. If finger strength is not sufficient something else must be improved. And body movement is just always important as well. Everything helps!
Feel like this channel is a hidden gem. Really appreciate your time and effort with making these vids
I appreciate that! Share with your friends.
Thank you so much! That’s awesome to hear 🤘
Can't wait for the RFD video!!
script is mostly done. There's also some more detailed stuff about rfd on the patreon account.
Just getting through the video now. But wanted to say how pleasant it was to hear some blast beats and chugs for the intro music. As a deathcore/slam guitarist I wish more metal was used in climbing videos
Definitely agree there. Thanks for watching. The intro was made by a friend of mine who is a shredder. In the style of Gojira!
@@c4hp. love a bit of gojira. Loved the tips and insights. Funnily enough this wall crawl on bad holds is something I inadvertently have been training since building a home wall. Definitely noticing benefits in engagement on worse holds on commercial walls and on real rock
"emil abrahangs" I love that one hahaha
Just a fun little Easter egg pun haha you caught it!
Wow! These keep getting better and better each time! I’ve been experimenting with warm-up unlevel edge curls and pulls for the last couple months. I will include the on the wall coordination sessions again. Even thinking about a new strength block next year. Thank you so much for your work, it's much appreciated.
Oh, I have a question: I've been struggling on and off with feeling less coordinated/activated on the wall. Bad movement/body tension etc., maybe including the “wall crawl” as a last part of my warm up might fix this?! Can't wait to try it
Thank you for the feedback! And yes, do the warm up, include the finger curls for a set or so and then to the wall crawl for a few sets either for your session or prior to something else. The curl + crawl is going to help drive that intent and awareness to the fingers!
Excellent video course as remember simple does not mean easy 😅 and you break down these concepts very well into simple parts, so it is easy to understand and best of all apply!!
Thank you so much for the feedback. Happy to hear everything came through clear!
Sick! Thanks for your feedback
just found this channel and i already love it! do you guys think you’ll be making a video on training for / using slopers effectively? my style is small crimps on overhang, but the sandstone of the southeast really encourages 3 finger dragging and being good on slopers (which i’m horrible with both). I trust the info this channel puts out and would love to see a video on slopers !
Thanks for the kind words. It'll happen.
Waiting for the channel to blow up! 🔥
Thanks. Please share
Us too! Haha share with your friends and social media if you can. Thank you!
"its more about getting your center mass in the most efficient position possible." This is it, 100%. Constant battle as a long legged 6'6" climber.
The beauty of climbing is that there are many ways to solve the send problem. Becoming a better climber means recognizing what you have to offer and learning how to fit your piece in to the puzzle. Jamming it in is rarely the solution.
@@LiftsmcgeeWas just complimenting Dr Nelson's take about establishment of center mass over the necessary area to optimize movement. I fully embrace the fact that i'm a freakishly tall. Has advantages and disadvantages. I can never use anyone else's beta.
@@skillbugbeet nothing wrong with that! That’s the fun part of climbing! It’s just you vs. rock
Love this! Going to incorporate it into my training, I'm finding I'm getting flash pumped on the wall crawls, any advice?
Recovery might be the under appreciated gem in here. If powerlifters trained like climbers they'd be in wheel chairs.
They Definitely would.
Fucking hell this is such an informative video. Love it
Thank you so much for the feedback!
Please share with friends!! :)
You get it because of that cover image of yours!
Hi Tyler enjoyed the video, wondered what your thoughts are on someone doing the advanced session x1 weekly for a slightly longer duration rather than twice weekly for a shorter duration? Of course with other stimulation included
Awesome and clear. A question for the future: applying this to pinches. (At which I suck).
Use this same methodology and simply substitute pinches more. I've done it with good success myself and for my clients. I'd also add in some additional talon trip training (video 2) as well.
Hey, great content. Insightful and logical. I have a question about the programming. In the strength training phase do you also program high intensity climbing practice (like near limit bouldering) in addition of the on and off the wall strength training? Thank you.
Probably depends on the personal and the goals, but a wall crawl could exist in a tiny dose before intense climbing or as a Day A full dose in tandem with a Day B intense climbing
Thank you for all I have learned from you! Really a great channel (the best?) for learning how to train for climbing. Hopefully, and probably, this channel will blow up soon!🎉 Looking forward to trying this drill for hypertrophy gains!
Just one thing confused me. I were under the impression that mixing max strength and hypertrophy in the same session was a bad combo due to deminished returns, but if I understand you correctly you recommend doing the wall crawl after finger strength training (during warm-up)?
Thanks Mark. We appreciate the kind words. Please share this channel as you deem necessary. The idea that strength and hypertrophy are distinct adaptations is a bit outdated.
@@c4hp. Oh thx for that. Will do!
Thanks for this video.
For this protocol, would you recommend open hand, half crimp, full crimp?
Half crimp, or something around it makes the most sense most of the time because the angles of the fingers challenge to “actively grip”. However, you can certainly wall crawl on slopers (open hand) and on very small edges. The doses of the crawling (sets, reps, weeks) should adjust to reflect the intensity of the grip type chosen
I've been programing something similar for myself and have seen massive gains in applied finger strength. Removing high velocity climbing, and purely focusing on strength seems counter intuitive, yet I've found it effective .
The speed at which muscle fibers produce max force is slower than max power. Is there any other reason besides optimization of force production to eliminate max velocity movement during a strength block?
I appreciate you putting out science based content on training, awesome resource for the community.
There are certainly times where you can mix strength (heavy, slow) with velocity days (high speed) like in an undulating periodization scheme. But, I feel we come at this through the angle that 99% of people are already flailing around or limit climbing all the time, that the lowest hanging fruit to pluck is truly leaning into a strength phase and learning how to do it well, to ramping it back up into velocity work. So, they both can certainly co-exist! Just depends on who you are, goals, and what you’ve been doing
I certainly agree, one of the biggest benefits for me was the discipline that came from not flailing around. And kind of reinventing my climbing style by loading up body tension in that way. I would be interested to see if the overall trainable matrix of tissue sees more or less adaptation in a linear or nonlinear periodization scheme. something to look into guess!@@Liftsmcgee
Thanks Tyler appreciate the resources you are putting out there for us. Your logical, evidence based stance on training and it’s application for climbing is a real breath of fresh air in an internet full of hyperbole and BS 👊🏻
Thanks a ton. Please help share this video and get the word out. The only way we can keep making these is if I get some sort of funding for them.
Will do 👍
this is really interesting idea. most of my projects boil down to being unable to do a big dynamic move and i lack the coordination. i'm gonna try this in combination with off wall arm lifts and see what happens.
by the way, what do you think about traversing on small holds on a specialized traverse wall? i'm guessing it really depends on the wall and the routesetting. but i'm just asking because traversing for a few months really seemed to improve my coordination.
traversing on hard holds is the same thing essentially. There's maybe less body position similarities to vertical climbing, but wouldn't change much on the fingers, IMO. Getting coordinated with your big jump move certainly is a skill you need to practice.
Hi Taylor, if I was to do edge pick ups as a part of my warm up before the board training, what % of max do you recommend to use for it?
question
So you mention using some finger training before the wall crawl, would this sugest that after the wall crawl you can continue the climbing session? Also what would that session look like in terms of bouldering... I am curious about the fatigue accumilation after the wall crawl protocol.
Also thanks for the contribution again!
The finger training is represented in the first two videos. Low volume, high intensity, stuff on a big edge. If the wall crawl volume stays low, you should be okay with having a regular climbing session afterward. What you do really depends on a lot of things. I typically don't do it "in season", but regularly do it when I'm not focused on outdoor climbing. It depends also on your finger strength, training age, and edges use for the wall crawl. Hope that helps. Thanks for your support.
I really like the concept of wall crawls, but I don't really get what intensity level to aim for? I have a 45 degree wall and if I use smaller holds than I normally climb on the moves become like a limit session where I can hardly do the moves. If I'm supposed to do the moves static and controlled I cant go down in hold size? The typical 7/3 repeater that the session is compared to is not like a high intensity move. So should I go with lower intensity and more focus on controlling the hold/move? What RPE to go for?
Thanks Doctor! These protocols always worked for me. Thanks a lot for your work. I'd like to understand how translate these aproaches to a endurece traning. I feel that I'm progressing a lot in strength and contact strength but I think it's increased the gap between that i can send in Boulder (v8) and I can send in sport climbing (7c)
Endurance sounds like a perfect topic for a new video for us! Thank you for the feedback as well!
how would i separate this from standard board climbing? is it just making it so that all the feet are good and move are very static?
The moves are static but the focus and the intention is in the fingers. The intention is to see, feel, the finger hold and squeeze into every edge you grab. The feet are kept simple/large and movement static to enhance your focus on the fingers. For some the feet can be "small", it is relative to your ability but keep in mind the value is in the fingers. And this can be the "day 1" to a "Standard board climbing" Day 2. This can also simply be Day 1 and Day 2 climbing, especially along a strength phase, foundational phase, "restart" phase after outdoor projecting, etc.
I know you don't like to compare, but I don't see others (like Lattice) prescribe the coordination training (i.e. slowly moving on small holds). They typically rather prescribe max moves (which often gives power/speed) or sessions like pyramid or others. And that doesn't necessarily mean small holds and slow movements.
,and? Which panel of experts made them the standard for climbing training. I'm not saying they don't do awesome things because they do, and I work with them a lot. But they'd agree that we are still in the infancy of understanding our sport and how to train for it. Fast movements can be essential for sports performance, but you don't get that much practice/coordination on small holds when the movements are technical and powerful. You're mostly falling. That's the big difference.
@@c4hp. Thanks. Maybe that's the challenge, we're in the infancy of our sport and it's evolving a lot these years and going forward.
what is the rest time of "repeater on the wall" ?
3-4 minutes. sorry if that wasn't mentioned
That blocked hold @3:58 is just mean 😆
@natureclimbing hold 🤘