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Haha maybe, maybe not! It could be part of the solution but so is just intention practice finding those optimal solutions to better body positions. It’s different for everyone!

Not sure what you mean?

@@c4hp. the video only brings up an opinion of what is bad. Leaving possible viewers, people looking for change or advise no better than before.

@@60SecondBoooks did you notice at the end for it suggests to watch the whole video?

@@c4hp. yes that’s why he referenced you leaving it hanging, chances are people aren’t going to click through and watch your video. They’re just gonna take the information that you’re spreading of something being bad.

also I didn’t even notice another vid being shown on the ending screen + it’s not even a link so you can’t easily just watch the suggested video u have to dig thru it after pausing the ending to see the vid title

Definitely

Comfortable for fingies = greater strength gains = better prepared fingers for what the rock will challenge them with… 😉

Have to prove we are useful! Lol

Training tools, and exercises are not specific. The adaptations to them sure. Strength training in A flat edge won’t make someone climb harder either. It will increase their capacity for practicing more.

@@c4hp. if you do strength training on a flat edge you should get stronger fingers and if all the other technical aspects of your climbing are there you should be able to increase performance on a flat edge. The uneven edge I'm sure has it's uses I just don't think it beats out a flat edge as your primary training tool

@@amethyst8399 all at the expense of overloading the pip joints of the middle fingers.

@@c4hp. valid, idk imma probably stick to my flat edges, cool concept tho

Absolutely!

I actually have some molding clay in my locker I’ve never used but if you have a home hangboard you could totally try that

not a lot of full crimping for sure. That is a risk factor for growth plate injuries.

we totally agree. If you've listened to recent podcast episodes (The Struggle, Training Beta, and The Nugget) we suggest acclimating the fingers on a board in a more controlled context. Certainly a fingerboard can be used, but a climbing wall would be more transferable.

The stand version, not the low.

Like real rock style unlevel edges?

These are a hot commodity right now. Get in tension climbing mailing list

heh? This is rock climbing where static finger strength is king, not dynamic grip strength.

I’ll counter: what if you had a strong person anddddd a strong leverage point? That martial arts person kicks double ass

“More optimal” is probably the better way to describe it. It won’t be perfect for everyone’s hand. Probably not possible at this moment, but definitely a couple steps in the right direction from the flat edge

@@Liftsmcgee agree.

One way to think about it is that the yield isometric is “more efficient” at creating force from all type things. When we use the overcoming isometric it is majority muscle doing the work, the muscle gets no help. During the yield isometric Titin, a molecule that acts like a rubber band when called upon (stretched), will add additional force capability to the tissue under stretch. Hence, the muscle receives help to create force. Both, are useful! And judge by what you said with your history of max hangs and newness to the curls, the curls will probably be very nice!

Heavy finger curl with a bar would have the same effect?@@Liftsmcgee

@@nicolascormier5478not necessarily. We want to make sure it’s an isometric (not moving) and not a heavy full range of motion (potentially more risky to pulley) and with the edge we can better guarantee the work is being put through the finger tips and not a bar that rolls into our palms through motion