I subscribed, life these days is sad but these little videos keep up the positivity in life. These are great escape from me from all worries of life. Please keep uploading them, thank you.
Excellent improvement to the mini lathe. Exactly what I did some years ago to mine. One little detail I can suggest: I made the handle with a brass tube turned to size and a pair of miniature ball bearings from an old hard drive motor on both sides, then the fixing bolt through the little tube to make the handle fit into place, then turned a brass tube cover to finish the outer part of the handle. The difference it makes both in comfort and precision in hand control is amazing. So I ended up replacing all of the hand wheels of my mini lathe. Excellent video and I really appreciate your detailed explanation. Keep up shearing your knowledge. Thank you very much.
One tip I have for turning between centres using a chuck, is to turn a small shoulder behind the headstock centre, this can rest against your chuck jaws and lets you get a bit more "gronk" on the job, with the tailstock. Keep up the good work and greetings from a new Tassie viewer 👍 Cheers, Craig
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Great video, as always. I have the same mini-lathe and it's great but the flywheel came slightly pre-broken for my convenience so this will be something I will have to have a go at. Keep up the good work. Regards Doc from South Australia.
I have a mini lathe... old mini lathe, I made it to run on cnc controller.... but my max diameter at the chuck is 52mm or 80 on extension... now i will be able to do parts about 150mm... thanks for the video...never ever know how to turn bigger diameter on a smaller lathe.Thank you,I will use this idea.
Very nicely made handwheel, it will very likely outlast the lathe. I also have a chinese lathe similar to yours and I found that the tangential tooling reduces the required cutting pressures and power to make a decent cut. Accentric engineering in Australia sells nicely made tooling or you can make the tool holders yourself. Have a look around on the internet, let me know if you would like to see pics of my home made tool holders. Looking forward to more of you videos. Thanks for sharing.
@@artisanmakes free cutting aluminium like 2011 work better. 6061 etc gums up, so need to use cutting fluid like kerosene or wd40 along with aggressive chip load / feed rate. The sharp positive rake in your tool works surprisingly well.
Although I haven't seen any recently you once could obtain dead centres with one quarter of the centre part removed that would allow machining right into the centre dimple.
Hi, thanks a lot for the great content. I love it. I received my mini lathe and will probably do some of your suggested upgrades. I was wondering from which book at 9:46 you get those nice machine handles designs? I would love to find it too. I love those handles so much (I have some on my old French milling machine) Thanks a lot. Cheers from 🇫🇷
@Mattbe72 - He was referring to “Machinerys Handbook”. There are 32 editions of the handbook. I have the 22nd edition and it does not have Machine Handles, or O-Ring data for that matter.
that solid billet design will last forever. I dropped the one on my 9x20 when moving machine, the 3 webbed bicycle spoke design broke in 3 pieces, i glued back with epoxy and it looked good as new, perfect, could hardly notice break lines, strong as an ox.......then later I moved again and broke it the same way with tailstock sliding off. Second time I TIG welded it: permanent but an ugly frankenstein, the heat warped stuff, I'd rather have a new one, but it IS functional.....
Just take the handweel off, chuck it, and give it a few passes until the welds disapear. Then you can use putty and paint to pretend being the welder you ain't ;)
Yes, there is actually a small crack on the mount. It cracked as I started filming. Didn't notice how much it flexed until I was watching the footage back. Cheer
Very well done, and you're also using replacement inserts. A Lathe-to fix a Lathe. Again, a nice outcome 👌 and you used some good feed rates and the chuck speeds. Sent this on June 31, at USA ...
@@artisanmakes Ah... the Nits always can find something to pick. Well done, I have a similar lathe with the same broken wheel. It's time to do something about it..!
Suggestion in the form of a question: why waste sooo much material and not make it a two piece assembly? I'm sure the big disk part could easily and very securely be bolted to a smaller cylinder.
I am going from memory, but when I bought my material, I didn't have much choice to go with it in terms of sizing and lengths, and this is what best fitted on my lathe.
it's almost a loss that you decided to remove the drive locations from the hand wheel - Had you left then then you could have used them to have a power feed with a drill chucked T-bar
Hey man love your channel, recently got myself a mini lathe and am completely new to machining. My question is, which might seem stupid, is the any metals that when turning might create dust and therefor need a respirator? As when I was turning brass it seemed with there was fine particles in the air? What do you think?
I personally think you should be fine, as long as you make chips dust should be minimal, just be careful when sanding as that always produces a good amount of dust, which is why I always try and wet sand. Cheers
Thanks for the feedback. That chuck has had issues from day one, it is just the cheap one that comes with the lathe, and the scroll is not perfectly cut. Though I didn't help it by wet sanding with it. I rarely use it now. The only reason I used it when I filmed is because the through bore is much larger than on the 4 jaw. When I have the time I will probably go through and fix it but it is not a big priority. Cheers.
Quite right. This is actually the first time I have ran out of space on the lathe chuck, normally I machine thin acrylic so I never saw the need for a bigger chuck. Maybe it is time for me to upgrade. Cheers
@@artisanmakes I don’t use it a lot. It is quite massive compared to the (in my opinion) worthless 3” chuck that they come with. Most of the time I run a 4” 3 jaw. At least it allows 3/4” stock to go all the way through the head stock. Be prepared for the mass of the 5”. My mini handles it OK, but the increased mass in rotation changes slightly some of the dynamics.
If you're going to remove a bunch of material from the center anyway, why not just drill a big hole and clamp your workpiece on the internal radius of the hole? It's faster because you're removing material that you will remove anyway later on. And its safer because your workpiece will be centered and clamped down propperly. Also then you don't have to make tooling that you'll probably never use again. Turning between two centers can be really dangerous, they aren't designed to support big loads.
If you're talking about drilling a hold and clamping the work to a bolt or arbor through that hole, that might work on smaller stock, ive seen it done but never with a great amount of rigidity. I think I have too much material here to safely do it.
@@artisanmakes No, that's not what I ment. I ment using the lathe chuck to clamp the workpiece on the inside radius of a large hole. Assuming you have a large drill and a drill press, that would be the preferred way of working.
Why don’t you make it. It would be a very similar job to what you have just done, only you would make it in steel, wouldn’t, even need to be cast iron.
I don't quite understand. You can't rotate the jaws on this model of scroll chuck, you have to use a different set of jaws, and even then the max diameter of work I can turn is 80mm. The stock I turned was larger so I had to turn between centres.
I just love watching machinists turn cheap lathes into the Ship of Theseus.
best comment
finally, someone shows off a ground lathe tool that looks like my ground lathe tools
If it works it works. Though I will admit the chip breaker made it look... interesting. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Those chips were impressive, they just stacked themselves.
I subscribed, life these days is sad but these little videos keep up the positivity in life. These are great escape from me from all worries of life. Please keep uploading them, thank you.
this keeps me GOING
Excellent improvement to the mini lathe. Exactly what I did some years ago to mine. One little detail I can suggest: I made the handle with a brass tube turned to size and a pair of miniature ball bearings from an old hard drive motor on both sides, then the fixing bolt through the little tube to make the handle fit into place, then turned a brass tube cover to finish the outer part of the handle. The difference it makes both in comfort and precision in hand control is amazing. So I ended up replacing all of the hand wheels of my mini lathe.
Excellent video and I really appreciate your detailed explanation. Keep up shearing your knowledge. Thank you very much.
Hello there. Just one Q.....did U record a Video of what U made ???
Would be interesting to Watch
aRM
One tip I have for turning between centres using a chuck, is to turn a small shoulder behind the headstock centre, this can rest against your chuck jaws and lets you get a bit more "gronk" on the job, with the tailstock. Keep up the good work and greetings from a new Tassie viewer 👍 Cheers, Craig
You can turn that bit against the center by using a half center. Super useful!!!!
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
That's a pretty neat trick! Thanks for demonstrating so precisely. Love your work!
Very cool! And didn’t realize carbide made such a difference for finish. Wow.
Super professional job dear man 👍Thank for your time
Great job! I really liked your get around for turning the oversized piece
Cool method of turning between centres!
You are great mate keep it up I love watching you projects 😀
Great video, as always.
I have the same mini-lathe and it's great but the flywheel came slightly pre-broken for my convenience so this will be something I will have to have a go at.
Keep up the good work.
Regards
Doc from South Australia.
Pre-broken. I like that. It's just so considerate when a shipper does that. It gives us the opportunity to create more work for ourselves...lol.
Great idea for turning such a large piece!
I have the same mini lathe
It does so much for such a small machine
Great to hear you like your mini lathe too. Cheers
I have a mini lathe... old mini lathe, I made it to run on cnc controller.... but my max diameter at the chuck is 52mm or 80 on extension... now i will be able to do parts about 150mm... thanks for the video...never ever know how to turn bigger diameter on a smaller lathe.Thank you,I will use this idea.
Awesome! Super interesting aluminium roughing tool, I can’t quite wrap my head around the cutting geometry.
Very nicely made handwheel, it will very likely outlast the lathe. I also have a chinese lathe similar to yours and I found that the tangential tooling reduces the required cutting pressures and power to make a decent cut. Accentric engineering in Australia sells nicely made tooling or you can make the tool holders yourself. Have a look around on the internet, let me know if you would like to see pics of my home made tool holders. Looking forward to more of you videos. Thanks for sharing.
Would love to see those pics
Very nice! Next on my list
TOT references 😍 nice Job man!
I must do that. Nice job mate!
Pretty ingenious work around for the big piece. It also turned out real nice!
Well done sir.
Nice work as always. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Very nice!
Nice work 👍
Looks like your going over mini things I’ve done or need to do . Glad to have found your ch
Thank you.
There's a lot of insert tooling out there that does have chip breakers for aluminum. You just have to get that grade of insert
Never throw away used/broken HSS tooling it can often be repurposed as a unique cutting tool.
Indeed. Two of my cutting tools are broken drill bits :-)
nice chip breaker, even the carbide AK inserts struggle at times.
Cheers. I have a set of those aluminium inserts, but I have not been able to get decent results from them on my lathe.
@@artisanmakes free cutting aluminium like 2011 work better. 6061 etc gums up, so need to use cutting fluid like kerosene or wd40 along with aggressive chip load / feed rate. The sharp positive rake in your tool works surprisingly well.
Muy buen trabajo
Le podria haber hecho una escala graduada en la rueda en mm pero eso seria lujo
Saludos!!!
Nice job for mods
Although I haven't seen any recently you once could obtain dead centres with one quarter of the centre part removed that would allow machining right into the centre dimple.
They’re still available. Use a live center for all the work until the last fine pass, and then remove the tit in the center.
Hi, thanks a lot for the great content. I love it. I received my mini lathe and will probably do some of your suggested upgrades. I was wondering from which book at 9:46 you get those nice machine handles designs? I would love to find it too. I love those handles so much (I have some on my old French milling machine) Thanks a lot. Cheers from 🇫🇷
@Mattbe72 - He was referring to “Machinerys Handbook”. There are 32 editions of the handbook. I have the 22nd edition and it does not have Machine Handles, or O-Ring data for that matter.
@@JohnDoe-ls2ww thanks I imported the 31th edition but did not think about it. I will check in it. Thanks 🙏
@@JohnDoe-ls2ww I can't find this section in the Machinery's Handbook 31th edition :(
What type of inserts do you use ? Can you write down a part number ?
My inserts dont cut , they chew.
Great channel and really enjoy your videos. Subbed 👍 ARCO
Cheers, I am glad you enjoyed the video.
Thank you Good call on no music..
nice work
mesmerising to watch, thanks.
I'd LOVE to get my hands on those swirls you throw out. Hmmmm... how to?
2:35 huge difference in chamfers.
Must have added it off camera or not added the footage in the edit. So long ago I can’t remember
that solid billet design will last forever.
I dropped the one on my 9x20 when moving machine, the 3 webbed bicycle spoke design broke in 3 pieces, i glued back with epoxy and it looked good as new, perfect, could hardly notice break lines, strong as an ox.......then later I moved again and broke it the same way with tailstock sliding off. Second time I TIG welded it: permanent but an ugly frankenstein, the heat warped stuff, I'd rather have a new one, but it IS functional.....
Just take the handweel off, chuck it, and give it a few passes until the welds disapear. Then you can use putty and paint to pretend being the welder you ain't ;)
Your drill press table was tilting the workpiece from the down feed pressure. Next time, put your car's jack under the table to keep it from tilting.
Yes, there is actually a small crack on the mount. It cracked as I started filming. Didn't notice how much it flexed until I was watching the footage back. Cheer
@@artisanmakes I think most of them flex without a crack..
@@bobweiram6321 Yes it did before but the crack but it is much worse now. Cheers.
@@artisanmakes Kinda good to know a guy with your skills will still continue to use flawed tools like the rest of us 😁
nice.. i know it's a silly question, couldn't you remove the jaws and turn them around ?
Very well done, and you're also using replacement inserts. A Lathe-to fix a Lathe. Again, a nice outcome 👌 and you used some good feed rates and the chuck speeds. Sent this on June 31, at USA ...
What size did the handwheels end up at please eg where they close to the 10omm?
Hi what you used on first thread?
Well done but I’m confused with the bolt and Locktite.
The bolt is not tightened up against the handle, he wants the handle to spin.
@@opcruiser5436 How about a washer and an acorn nut or a Nyloc nut to do that? The rest is very professional.
Yeah there are many ways of doing this, I've seen other methods, but no need to over do it. Keep it simple. Cheers
That was a neat trick! Do you not ask for machine grade aluminium when you have to buy? You don't use inserts for Aluminium?
Why is your tube of Thread Lock labelled Superglue?
Because it isn't thread lock
@@miles11we He said it was.
@@BedsitBob we can plainly see its superglue not thread lock
You caught me there :) but I'm not planning on removing the bolt, so it works. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Ah... the Nits always can find something to pick.
Well done, I have a similar lathe with the same broken wheel. It's time to do something about it..!
Of course I've subscribed :)
Purchase yourself a standard half center and you will be able to machine right up to and past the edge of your center hole.
@1:53 😊
Suggestion in the form of a question: why waste sooo much material and not make it a two piece assembly? I'm sure the big disk part could easily and very securely be bolted to a smaller cylinder.
I am going from memory, but when I bought my material, I didn't have much choice to go with it in terms of sizing and lengths, and this is what best fitted on my lathe.
it's almost a loss that you decided to remove the drive locations from the hand wheel - Had you left then then you could have used them to have a power feed with a drill chucked T-bar
If you haven't already, make a bigger plate for underneath the tailstock; it's 20 minutes of work for a big quality-of-life improvement.
Can this hand wheel be casted..?
Please reply to my comment as early as possible today.! Plzz
Yes, I even did a video on it. I think it was called recycling aluminum or casting a handwheel
if you put a small jack under your drill table it will not deflect so bad. ..
It was just a cracked mount on the table, i welded it up and it doesn't flex anymore.
Hey man love your channel, recently got myself a mini lathe and am completely new to machining. My question is, which might seem stupid, is the any metals that when turning might create dust and therefor need a respirator? As when I was turning brass it seemed with there was fine particles in the air? What do you think?
I personally think you should be fine, as long as you make chips dust should be minimal, just be careful when sanding as that always produces a good amount of dust, which is why I always try and wet sand. Cheers
9:52 Your chuck should NOT be that difficult to tighten. Clean the scroll and the jaws.
Thanks for the feedback. That chuck has had issues from day one, it is just the cheap one that comes with the lathe, and the scroll is not perfectly cut. Though I didn't help it by wet sanding with it. I rarely use it now. The only reason I used it when I filmed is because the through bore is much larger than on the 4 jaw. When I have the time I will probably go through and fix it but it is not a big priority. Cheers.
YO PARLO EN ESPAÑOL LO DEMAS NO ENTIEDO
HABLAR EN IDIOMA ESPAÑOL
mi espanol no es bueno
5” chucks do fit on a mini lathe. Why not have one? Make it a 4 jaw. I did.
Quite right. This is actually the first time I have ran out of space on the lathe chuck, normally I machine thin acrylic so I never saw the need for a bigger chuck. Maybe it is time for me to upgrade. Cheers
@@artisanmakes I don’t use it a lot. It is quite massive compared to the (in my opinion) worthless 3” chuck that they come with. Most of the time I run a 4” 3 jaw. At least it allows 3/4” stock to go all the way through the head stock.
Be prepared for the mass of the 5”. My mini handles it OK, but the increased mass in rotation changes slightly some of the dynamics.
plastic is pre cracked ,they boast about this process and keep it hidden until the opening pleasantly surprises ...
If you're going to remove a bunch of material from the center anyway, why not just drill a big hole and clamp your workpiece on the internal radius of the hole? It's faster because you're removing material that you will remove anyway later on. And its safer because your workpiece will be centered and clamped down propperly. Also then you don't have to make tooling that you'll probably never use again. Turning between two centers can be really dangerous, they aren't designed to support big loads.
If you're talking about drilling a hold and clamping the work to a bolt or arbor through that hole, that might work on smaller stock, ive seen it done but never with a great amount of rigidity. I think I have too much material here to safely do it.
@@artisanmakes No, that's not what I ment. I ment using the lathe chuck to clamp the workpiece on the inside radius of a large hole. Assuming you have a large drill and a drill press, that would be the preferred way of working.
😀😀😀❤️
Why don’t you make it. It would be a very similar job to what you have just done, only you would make it in steel, wouldn’t, even need to be cast iron.
The video is really good. But am I the only one who is annoyed by the back ground music?
No you are not alone
А зачем такая сложность при первоначальной проточке? В остальном зачет.
Had to stand their for a longgggggggg time to get that turned down🤢
Mini lathes eh
Ignoring the value and pleasure in making something yourself, how much does a chunk of aluminium that size cost? That was a lot of chips.
This 100 x 50 piece of aluminium was $32 AUD on ebay plus $9 for shipping. All up, still cheaper than buying an off the shelf cast hand wheel.
With most chucks, the jaws can be rotated and even a large diameter can be clamped. This was useless work.
I don't quite understand. You can't rotate the jaws on this model of scroll chuck, you have to use a different set of jaws, and even then the max diameter of work I can turn is 80mm. The stock I turned was larger so I had to turn between centres.