Land Rover Series 2a 88 - Part 7: Front and Rear Axle Restoration (LONG)
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2024
- This video covers how I replaced the Series 2a differential pinion seal. The seal is of a different design to the original so I had to make some decisions to minimise premature seal wear. The adjustments I made are not covered in the manual or recommended anywhere, so I took a gamble and time will tell if I have made a mistake.
Note: My videos are not a tutorial/how to. I am not a qualified mechanic so please refer to your workshop manual with your work. Do not use the content on my channel as a replacement for a workshop manual or mechanic.
This is a really helpful video as I try to (a) get the nut off and (b) replace the oil seal on my front diff, thank you for going into so much detail. Watching this at the same time as watching England's second innings in Hobart, looks like a lovely ground!
Thanks for your comment. Glad these vids help out 👍
Great vid 👍👍👍
I'm following your IIa rebuild with a great deal of interest. I am finding your methods very informative and inspirational. It was a little disappointing to see you switch from the 109 to the 88 at first as I got the feeling you were giving some thought to repairing the chassis, which I would have liked to watch. I'm really looking forward to the 2.25 diesel rebuild! Great work mate and keep those videos coming (have you considered a tripod for the GoPro?).
Thanks Duncan. I had an open mind about the 109 when i got it. Either rebuild or parts vehicle. When the 88 turned up, i couldnt let that go. The chassis is really rusted, and lots more than vid shows. Got a tripod for gopro but at times the position doesnt suit so i improvise. Cheers Carlos
Thanks Harvey for your comments, gives me an idea of how useful the vids are. Cheers
Great step by step video by the way... So I have to Carrier Diffs from my 1967 and 1969 Series 2A's that I am working on and I removed all spacers and components etc. and replaced all spacers in the correct location. the problem with my rebuild is I cannot get the 80-90 ft-lbs in to the pinion castle nut. if I even put 30 ft-lbs the pinion shaft and the bearing seizes and it will not rotate. I think it my spacing but everything that came out IE Bearings and raceways check out dimensionally correct. Any thoughts on my issue?
I take it all was working before stripdown? Here is a good thread to read
www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-and-iia/152762-diff-rebuild-issues.html
Hey thanks for the reply.... Both were partially disassembled before I acquired these Diff Carriers... I checked the back-lash and it is between 0.003-0.007" So I know that is right. I re-used the same spacers on both the pinion bearings and replace ALL bearings. It is only when I put torque to the castellated nuts (IE 90 ft-lbs) is when everything go wrong. So my question now is why is there torque that high when it is LOCKED by a cotter pin? To me it is the same as a side axle that has a cotter pin as well.
Hard to say, so many factors. Did you check the bearing width? Sorry I am not much help, loads of variables here.
Dumb question, how come you didn’t just remove those 6 bolts just below the inner mud shield, and then remove the seal by pushing out from the back? Is there a problem removing that piece? There is a gasket behind there that probably could use a refresh also :).
Not a dumb question, havent really thought about doing it that way... so yeah I suppose one could also go that way if you wanted to strip it down further. As you say wouldnt hurt to replace that gasket also.
I tend to try and minimise unnecessary work and potential issues. If it needs to be repaired then ill delve further, if not i leave well enough alone. Thanks for your support too. Cheers.
I got a series 3 that needs some TLC.....are you available?
Not sure what you mean... I am just a DIY'er building my project. If you are after someone that does restorations/rebuilds for a living then thats the right way to go. BUT they are fairly easy machines to work on yourself so thats another option ;)
What workshop manual do you use
A combination of an Autobooks 'Land Rover Series 2, 2a and 3' and mostly my own 'garage' mechanical experience. Unfortunately the manual is a bit light on details so I mostly end up working on the landy using my own knowledge/experience. Cheers.
What is RTV
Its a gasket sealant maker you can use if you dont have a paper gasket.
Britpart has a bit of a bad reputation in the UK
dont use britpart, buy oem
My friend had some available, so I used these. But I agree, using OE stuff is much better as after market can be hit and miss.