Hello Thank you for the info. From now I only use the 151 converted according to your video. However I use a much more banana” blade than you has shown. Works great. Greetings from Lars in Sweden ”
thank you for posting, will be really usefull as i have been thinking about altering one for a while. i have a couple of old joseph dixon spokeshaves for leather, took me ages to get the blades sharp, but still arent that great. will have a go at this, hopefully be a lot better than the old ones i have.
This is a great video! I've learned so much. Can you describe the weight/thickness of paper you glued to the spokeshave. Is it closer to photocopy paper or card stock? Thanks so much.
I found a 151 in the UK for a great price and did all your mods. It took a while but was pretty straightforward. I even made the little leather protector the way you did. Thanks. My problem is, I'm working with alum tawed pig skin, using the blade it came with, modified to your specs. But as soon as the blade is out enough to do more than scrape the leather, it tends to bite and pull the leather into a deeper and deeper cut until it cuts a hole right through the fairly thick hide. I've tried shaving straight forward and at an angle and have the same problem both ways. I haven't tried it with any other leathers. It does dull quite quickly, so I'm guessing that tawed pig skin may be tougher than vegetable tanned leather. The blade edge seems perfectly "square" (no cure in the leading edge). Any thoughts on what might me causing the blade to "bite" and want to cut deeper and deeper rather than shave an even depth? I have the blade bevel-side down. Thanks. Any pointers would be appreciated.
Sorry, I haven't worked with tawed skin. Of course the process is different to tanning. I assume you are trying to bind in a medieval style. You should remember they would not have pared leather thin like in the 19th century and later. It sounds like your blade isn't sharp enough. But impossible to tell without trying it. Harder or tougher leather is normally easier to pare. More like working wood. Less stretch. But it sounds like you are trying to get the skin too thin. Good luck. DAS
I suppose it is a balancing thing. Am I good enough with tools (and the patience it takes) to modify a spokeshave, or just purchase one from Jeff. Seems pricy, but he has probably done many so he know what has to be done.
By the time you buy a spokeshave, then a replacement hardened blade, you're already half way to Jeff's price, and haven't even started the mods. The mods to the body of the spokeshave are fairly straight forward. Regrinding the hard steel of a Hock blade is almost impossible without a suitable grinder and stone. I get by with the original blade, but have to strop and sharpen more often, which is time consuming. Even though I've modified a number of these now, one of Jeff's is on my Christmas present list. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I thought as much. I did completely refurbish one of my Dad's old Stanley planes. That was a lot of work but pretty straight forward. I use it a lot and replaced the blade with a Veritas blade. It now works perfectly and looks good also. The rag in a tin can works perfectly for keeping all my tools rust free. Thanks to Paul Sellers.
No. The engine paint I used doesn't require it. I did clean it of rust very well and wiped it with solvent before painting to make sure there was no grease or oil on it. All the best, Darryn
What sort of wheel are you using on that grinder and where did you get it from. I tried reading the details from it in the video but too much of the label is covered by the plate. I just got a hand grinder from ebay but the stone is pretty trashed so a new one is definitly needed. At that point I'll be able to finally re-grind the 40+ old chisels and planes I've got lying around and get stuck into making my presses.
@@DASBookbinding - thanks, figured I'd need some sort of dressing tool for it as well. Have to wait for the grinder to arrive so I can work out maximum wheel size and hole diameter before ordering but at least I have an idea what to look for now :)
The major thing I've got from your Video is the urge to request you for one modified spokeshave! Happy to pay; I do not have the ability to modify one myself! would that be possible? Thanks.
Thanks for asking. They are a lot of work and I don;t think I can do it any cheaper than Jeff Peachey. He takes it a couple steps further than I do too - like the A2 blade. So I recommend Jeff. www.peacheytools.com/shop/modified-151-spokeshave-for-leather-paring All the best, Darryn
DAS Bookbinding I have it done with a new tool, 2mm kniefe, the rest is as the video tald me. And it works: 5 hours or a little bit more within 2 days, not to bad. I am much like you.....
This is such a clear, practical video. Thank you.
I was just thinking about doing this, thanks for the step by step guide!
Thank you Sir! Very thorough! G
Hello
Thank you for the info. From now I only use the 151 converted according to your video. However I use a much more banana” blade than you has shown. Works great.
Greetings from Lars in Sweden ”
thank you for posting, will be really usefull as i have been thinking about altering one for a while. i have a couple of old joseph dixon spokeshaves for leather, took me ages to get the blades sharp, but still arent that great. will have a go at this, hopefully be a lot better than the old ones i have.
Good luck! DAS
This is a great video! I've learned so much. Can you describe the weight/thickness of paper you glued to the spokeshave. Is it closer to photocopy paper or card stock? Thanks so much.
I think the thinner the better. I think I used 50gsm bank layout. Copier paper would be okay too. I wouldn't use card.
Thanks!@@DASBookbinding
I found a 151 in the UK for a great price and did all your mods. It took a while but was pretty straightforward. I even made the little leather protector the way you did. Thanks. My problem is, I'm working with alum tawed pig skin, using the blade it came with, modified to your specs. But as soon as the blade is out enough to do more than scrape the leather, it tends to bite and pull the leather into a deeper and deeper cut until it cuts a hole right through the fairly thick hide. I've tried shaving straight forward and at an angle and have the same problem both ways. I haven't tried it with any other leathers. It does dull quite quickly, so I'm guessing that tawed pig skin may be tougher than vegetable tanned leather. The blade edge seems perfectly "square" (no cure in the leading edge). Any thoughts on what might me causing the blade to "bite" and want to cut deeper and deeper rather than shave an even depth? I have the blade bevel-side down. Thanks. Any pointers would be appreciated.
Sorry, I haven't worked with tawed skin. Of course the process is different to tanning. I assume you are trying to bind in a medieval style. You should remember they would not have pared leather thin like in the 19th century and later. It sounds like your blade isn't sharp enough. But impossible to tell without trying it. Harder or tougher leather is normally easier to pare. More like working wood. Less stretch. But it sounds like you are trying to get the skin too thin. Good luck. DAS
I suppose it is a balancing thing. Am I good enough with tools (and the patience it takes) to modify a spokeshave, or just purchase one from Jeff. Seems pricy, but he has probably done many so he know what has to be done.
By the time you buy a spokeshave, then a replacement hardened blade, you're already half way to Jeff's price, and haven't even started the mods. The mods to the body of the spokeshave are fairly straight forward. Regrinding the hard steel of a Hock blade is almost impossible without a suitable grinder and stone. I get by with the original blade, but have to strop and sharpen more often, which is time consuming. Even though I've modified a number of these now, one of Jeff's is on my Christmas present list. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I thought as much. I did completely refurbish one of my Dad's old Stanley planes. That was a lot of work but pretty straight forward. I use it a lot and replaced the blade with a Veritas blade. It now works perfectly and looks good also. The rag in a tin can works perfectly for keeping all my tools rust free. Thanks to Paul Sellers.
Looks great! Did you use a primer before you put the paint on?
No. The engine paint I used doesn't require it. I did clean it of rust very well and wiped it with solvent before painting to make sure there was no grease or oil on it. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thank you. I love your videos.
What sort of wheel are you using on that grinder and where did you get it from. I tried reading the details from it in the video but too much of the label is covered by the plate.
I just got a hand grinder from ebay but the stone is pretty trashed so a new one is definitly needed. At that point I'll be able to finally re-grind the 40+ old chisels and planes I've got lying around and get stuck into making my presses.
It got is ages ago, but it is a Norton 120 grit I think
Norton White Aluminum Oxide
Along with the new stone, get something to dress the stone too. DAS
@@DASBookbinding - thanks, figured I'd need some sort of dressing tool for it as well. Have to wait for the grinder to arrive so I can work out maximum wheel size and hole diameter before ordering but at least I have an idea what to look for now :)
The major thing I've got from your Video is the urge to request you for one modified spokeshave! Happy to pay; I do not have the ability to modify one myself! would that be possible? Thanks.
Thanks for asking. They are a lot of work and I don;t think I can do it any cheaper than Jeff Peachey. He takes it a couple steps further than I do too - like the A2 blade. So I recommend Jeff.
www.peacheytools.com/shop/modified-151-spokeshave-for-leather-paring
All the best, Darryn
I am doing a tool 151 and will send you pictures. rudolf from switzerland
Can't wait to see the results! Good luck, DAS
DAS Bookbinding I have it done with a new tool, 2mm kniefe, the rest is as the video tald me. And it works: 5 hours or a little bit more
within 2 days, not to bad. I am much like you.....
pictures are available to you: I have made a tool and it works well with cowhide and goat
Glad to hear it works well! DAS