How to make a Double Anderson Plug adaptor - FREE GIVEAWAY
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2017
- I had a problem. My Jayco caravan battery wasn't charging when connected to the car via the Anderson plug. It just ran the fridge adn that's it. Watch this video to see a solution to the problem and how to make an Anderson plug double adaptor. Plus I'll give this one away!
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Check out my latest Vid: "Jayco Warranty Issues"
• JAYCO WARRANTY ISSUES ...
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Thank you so much for the explanation of the addition of the piece of wood to the vice. I thought I may need another big solder iron like yours.
Great cost effective solution!
Thanks for that I was wondering how to make it and you explained it very well
Only wish I had discovered your channel much sooner. Excellent video and explanation. Plus, had I found it earlier I might have one the connector. Oh well, next pension day I am off to buy a soldering iron. The following pension days will build up some kit☺☺
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! Good luck with your soldering
Good video easy to follow and well done 👍 cheers keep up good work
Nice dude thanks for sharing i bought some and it came with no direction how it works thanks for RUclips now and people like yourself that whats to show us how to assemble if not half the stuff we buy is no information..
Wooo you have a huge soldering iron! Wow!
Good video just made one myself thanks for the idea
Great video, I’m hoping to have one of these set up off my leisure battery to allow solar in and also to be able to draw a load from the battery for accessories
Do you believe this will work?
Well done, is that strong enough to charge a 90litre 3way fridge, and a travel buddy oven would like your advice thanks terry. you make doing this easy cheers
Great video, I wonder if I can plug powerpole to sb50
Super clever! Love the solder idea!
Tks worked great
What you have made there is great for connecting a couple of devices to a single Anderson eg fridges, lights etc, but would never run a battery charging circuit thru the 6 gauge wire you using there....Has been the cause of many caravan battery charging problems bought to me over the years. Ok for a 20amp DCDC charger maybe, but not for 40 or 50 amp units. I have always run separate power feed for fridge ,( via ign operated relay so car battery isolated when turned off ), and dedicated charging feed, 2 separate Anderson plugs at tow ball......no more problems...
Thanks!!
great video, thanks 😂😀
Hi. You have given me great idea to use Anderson plug. I plan to convert the alligator clamp on portable 12 V ARB twin compressor. This have 2 wire positive with 40Ampere load and 1 wire negative with 80Ampere load.
For length of 6 meter length. What size of AWG wire size is needed for 40 ampere and 80 ampere.
Also what rating of Anderson plug is suggested.
May I ask what wattage of iron soldering unit should be use to solder the wire to Anderson plug. (I only have 30 watt solder iron).
Thanks.
A very good video and your knowledge made it very easy to watch. Thanks.
Wow this was great so how many end Anderson connector they have and are they all the same , do you have links for them and the cable. I want to try to make this can you help me?
Thanks man just made one after watching your video a couple of weeks ago works great
Crimping is always preferred to soldering if it is under any stress. Soldering makes a brittle point at the base of the join so it won't flex.
The great debate is whether to crimp or to solder. Why not do both?
@@chrisgraham2904I have soldering this connectors for 15 years, never had one going bad. But crimping them? This terminals are known to crack if used a cable with tiny wires. So if you wants a 16mm2 cable, buy a 16mm2 with thick wires and not a 16mm2 with small wires.
@@chrisgraham2904 because a properly crimped connection (with a hydraulic crimper when we're talking about the pins for 6AWG/16mm2 or bigger) should be compressed with enough force that the stranded wire has turned into a solid mass of copper inside the pin. There Should really be nothing for the solder to flow into. Of course there still will likely be some tiny areas that solder might find if you have a bunch of flux applied around the end of the pin (back near wire insulation) after crimping but as long as your properly size the pin to the wire and the correct die on an 8+ ton hydraulic crimper (12-16 makes the job easier) then all you are doing is adding something brittle to the area that's going to see the most strain.
The reason why crimping is often chosen over soldering (when both options would work) is that its a high strain/mobile application and mechanical security is more important than the very increase in resistance a crimped connection can have vs a soldered connection (and I've often been skeptical of these claims, 63/37 solder is not very conductive so a good crimp that turns the stranded wire into a solid mass of copper with the pin/lug/whatever termination pressed equally hard against the conductor should in some regards be a better connection if it wasn't for the tin/nickel plated on the outside of these terminations. I guess I should test a pure lug crimped to a 6AWG wire on both ends and then do an equal length of wire with the exact same pure copper lug soldered on both ends. Perhaps also do the same thing with tinned copper lugs just to see if that plays a role in how well the solder takes to it vs pure copper. Should probably try lugs from a few manufacturers since I have a feeling cheapo lugs that crimp easier would actually probably be malleable enough that they would become "one" with the conductors so much so that there would be 100% contact like the wire was extruded with a lug in one continuous process at the factory)
Could you do a video on which Anderson connectors to use for which application?
IE: After watching a video where winching can draw as much as 500+amps under a heavy load, how do you know which Anderson plug connector to use?
An SB350 connector for winching vs a SB50 connector for a fridge or a SB175 connector for powering a trailer, or an SB120 connector for jumping a car, etc.?
How do you know which Amp rated Anderson connector to use for each application?
I understand the wire thickness issue but the different rated connectors is what is throwing me off. Thanks for taking the time to show this.
Each Anderson plug is rated, you can just follow their guide here
Could this be used to plug in a 160w solar panel and a 200w solar blanket together into a 40amp redarc bcdc charger?
Custom Wire strippers are man's best friend
Id crimp them, and id also use heat shrink. (Marine grade) to seal the connections.
All good, but when you're putting the two copper cores into the terminal wouldn't be easier to weave them together a bit first? Much Easier to do with one hand I'd expect.
Very neat
Its a good idea to pre solder the leads (called tinning) first, as this will ensure full solder penetration. Not a good idea to spray water to cool the solder, as it can crystalise, causing fractures and higher resistance.
A crimped terminal that pulls out hasnt been done correctly. Either the crimp tool used the wrong crimp die, or the wire was too small for the terminal.
I agree, true trade techniques mentioned here.
Don't need to tin use fluxcore solder.
Crimping this terminals are just stupid since they are known to crack. If you wants go crimp this terminals, use a cable with thick copper or aluminium wires. So if you wants a 16mm2 wire, use a 16mm2 with thick wires and not a 16mm2 with tiny wires.
I have been using crimp terminals in aircraft for about 40 years, I have never known or heard of a properly applied terminal cracking.
@@brockstravels7586 The 50 Amp (Red) Anderson connectors/other brands with the same connector are know to crack from the bottom of the crimp and up on the sides. I have often seen battery chargers with small wires coming with terminals where the bottom of the terminal crimp is ripped off the terminal and crushed into the wire inside the terminal. This is something I have seen on more then 500 chargers from many different brands. Im more of a fan using Weidmuller terminals blocks to power whatever I want to power in my car. I dosent belive aircraft industry use the brands we are using.
I'm setting up my 42 Lt fridge in the camper trailer, the existing 12v cable feels to build up heat when the fridge is connected to the 12v plug and the fridge LCD shows 'error'. The camper battery is wired to the 120w solar panel in the sun. My question is, why on earth do the fridge companies pack the thinnest possible 12v cable when they would know it is too thin and they build up heat? I have just ordered some 6mm twin cable to replace the original cable.
Anyone have any answers?
Can you do an Anderson to a terminal connection?
Fantastic.google job .thanks
if only i watched this 4 years ago lol
how to open again the lip from connector ... to change new cable
Hi is there any way to connect two different size Anderson connectors. I ask because the cables on my golf buggy are SB120 while the Anderson connecter on my Battery charger is SB
Sorry SB50
Nice.. thanks. Are all the Anderson plugs able to be soldered? and are there better / worse ones out there?
Hey Mate, they’re all the same
@@DASHOffRoad Sorry, but NO! They are not all the same! The "$1 each on ebay" plugs are crap, and will eventually let you down. If you are building a system that may be required in extreme situations, always use the genuine Anderson plugs (branded with the Anderson Power Products logo). Around $5 per set (YMMV), cheaper if you buy them in multiples, but well worth the peace of mind. I have seen countless failed knock-off connectors, and heard many tales of woe about loss of food from a fridge that shut down due to crappy connection (changed plug for genuine, and the fridge fired back up, after a "expert" had convinced the owner that he needed a new fridge), batteries killed due to insufficient charging current getting through, and any number of cracked and/or broken connectors. Severe impact is the only reason I have ever seen a genuine plug fail.
You get what you pay for! 😑
And the cheap ones are not solar resistant. They turn a horrible brown colour, but fine for use inside
Hi, I have 2 Solar Panels, one is 120W and the other is 160W. I want to join them to charge my batteries. Because they are different in size, will I still get full advantage of 280W or will it only charge up to 120W on each? Thanks.
Bundyrum Ron if you link them in parallel you will get the full 280W however if you join them in series you will only get 120W. There are advantages to either system, more research to be done for you. Thanks for watching
Hi David. I've seen others who also join wire to terminals by filling with solder, but recently saw someone suggest that connections need to be crimped for strength, and soldered for electrical conductivity. I'm about to do some wiring in my Y62, and I should be able to crimp the smaller connectors, but was thinking of making up some jumper cables using 2B&S or 4B&S and may not be able to crimp those. Have you had any problems with your connections using your method?
Michael McDonald - Hi Michael, the first Anderson plug I ever had experience with was professionally crimped from a shop and the wire eventually pulled out. From then on I always solder. I have another video scheduled to go up in a fortnight on RUclips where I use 6G twin adding x2 external Anderson pugs to my caravan. Turned out to be a very neat job and no issues soldering. I've never seen a downside to soldering as long as it isn't dry. Thanks for watching and your in the running to win this adapter I made. Cheers
A PROPERLY crimped wire cannot be pulled out!!!
@@DASHOffRoad So much bad information in this video! Always, always, always crimp electrical connections! Solder by itself is never to be trusted--it doesn't take much to get a voltage/amperage overrun, which will instantly melt the solder and eject the wire--at which time you have a live wire arcing. Even a few amps on a metal surface is enough to kill a grown adult. As someone else stated, a crimped PROPERLY crimped cannot be pulled out. A wire that does pull out, was not properly crimped in the first place. Please go educate yourself on how to properly crimp a connection; it may just save your life.
@@peterrocan2542 You know very little about this connector, they are known to crack years after they become crimped. And they almost only work with 16mm2 cables with thick copper or aluminium wires if you wants to crimp. I have worked with this connectors for 15 years, and I can often pull them out with ease from worldwide companies that make equipment and machines for the whole world. They use this connector on many battery chargers and they always comes with terminals with cracks since its hopeless to crimp them.
If you solder the wires in the metal fittings, does that eliminate the need for a crisper? Can both be done?
I would do one or the other
@@DASHOffRoad Thanks that helps. Which do you prefer
i have a fixed solar panel and a portable fold out one, will this work to plug into my dcdc an charge from both panels??
Did you find out? I'm planning on doing the same and assuming it should work..
@@mattbarnes3111 nope only 1
Can I use it for AC? And put an MC4 for solar panels (microinverter)?
I don't see why not
@@DASHOffRoad Is it waterproof? IP67 and UV-proof? MC4 is.
you should tin the wires before inserting them
Why you should leave it to the Auto Elecs
There aren't just 50 amp Anderson's so if you did want use heavier cable you could use a larger amp rated plug
tinning the iron before applying heat to the terminal does nothing but make a mess
That is not a soldering iron ! This one is !! HaHa...
Those andersons are rated at 120amps.. and 50amps disconnect. Common misconception
No that is a soldering iron!!
Crimper sorry, damn autocorrect!