101020/1438h pst. I’m here once again, to sincerely apologize for expressing my affinity towards soldering Anderson connector or any high current connectors (ring terminals etc) I retract that statement and wholeheartedly support crimping the contacts with 10 Ton hydraulic crimper. The soldering to Anderson connector became a mess and looked hideous. Fortunately I have the 10 Ton hydraulic crimper. The final product looked very professional neat and tidy. Thank you , stay safe and 73s...
093020/1311h pst. Thanks for the 2nd segment of connecting cable to Anderson connector, by flood soldering. I, always prefer to solder smaller cables, (up to AWG10) to ring connectors and to connectors of similar types as above.This is due to “Wing” formation and the struggle to trim and fashion the area. The larger AWGs, it’s best to use the Hydraulic press/crimper as you spoke and demonstrated in the previous video. In the first part of the video, after filling the cavity with Pb, it looked that the Cu strands were simply dipped into the molten Pb. Under such conditions Pb may not adhere to Cu properly thus giving rise to an undesirable “dry solder” condition. It’d have been proper, to either pre-tin the Cu strands or dip the Cu strands in KESTER #921 fluid flux before insertion into molten Pb. I faintly, observed in the second part of the procedure, that Cu strands were Pre-tinned before insertion. ThT was nice. Like you mentioned, the Ronson torch was an “overkill” (excessive heat) and in the process, the Ag got oxidized. But the theory is well taken. The above comments are only an observation nothing but that. Your project is well appreciated and respected. Thank you, Sir. Stay safe and 73s...
Hydraulic crimper always better. Eliminates risk of a dry solder joint.. you may think you have a structural join but not necessarily a good electrical join - my personal experience of 50 years doing amateur electronics and Amateur Radio!!! When soldering with blow torch - connector can get too hot causing oxidization of the silver coating of the Anderson connector affecting electrical join. Both the Anderson connector and the wire cable need to be fluxed / tinned with a temperature controlled soldering iron before soldering to join electrically both parts. if insufficient contact join area and you try to pass high current through it - that could cause heating of the connection and even failure of it. So message is - crimp it!! That is why profession installer always crimp. End of story!!
Nice discussion and show and tell. My only comment is I think you contaminated your solder joint with melted plastic insulation which could compromise the strength and electrical conductivity of the joint. Trim off a little more insulation so you don't do that would be preferable to me.
I think you didn't mention about the type of solder you used. It is very important to use some sort of flux, I think you have flux core solder. Also the cheesy jumper cable clamp isn't strong enough for me, I used vise grips. Check out T Wagner's video.
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Though your solder job held I put solder flux on the wire and in the connection too.
Nice, thanks for the tip
101020/1438h pst. I’m here once again, to sincerely apologize for expressing my affinity towards soldering Anderson connector or any high current connectors (ring terminals etc) I retract that statement and wholeheartedly support crimping the contacts with 10 Ton hydraulic crimper.
The soldering to Anderson connector became a mess and looked hideous. Fortunately I have the 10 Ton hydraulic crimper. The final product looked very professional neat and tidy. Thank you , stay safe and 73s...
093020/1311h pst. Thanks for the 2nd segment of connecting cable to Anderson connector, by flood soldering.
I, always prefer to solder smaller cables, (up to AWG10) to ring connectors and to connectors of similar types as above.This is due to “Wing” formation and the struggle to trim and fashion the area. The larger AWGs, it’s best to use the Hydraulic press/crimper as you spoke and demonstrated in the previous video.
In the first part of the video, after filling the cavity with Pb, it looked that the Cu strands were simply dipped into the molten Pb. Under such conditions Pb may not adhere to Cu properly thus giving rise to an undesirable “dry solder” condition. It’d have been proper, to either pre-tin the Cu strands or dip the Cu strands in KESTER #921 fluid flux before insertion into molten Pb. I faintly, observed in the second part of the procedure, that Cu strands were
Pre-tinned before insertion. ThT was nice.
Like you mentioned, the Ronson torch was an “overkill” (excessive heat) and in the process, the Ag got oxidized.
But the theory is well taken.
The above comments are only an observation nothing but that.
Your project is well appreciated and respected.
Thank you, Sir. Stay safe and 73s...
Hydraulic crimper always better. Eliminates risk of a dry solder joint.. you may think you have a structural join but not necessarily a good electrical join - my personal experience of 50 years doing amateur electronics and Amateur Radio!!! When soldering with blow torch - connector can get too hot causing oxidization of the silver coating of the Anderson connector affecting electrical join. Both the Anderson connector and the wire cable need to be fluxed / tinned with a temperature controlled soldering iron before soldering to join electrically both parts. if insufficient contact join area and you try to pass high current through it - that could cause heating of the connection and even failure of it. So message is - crimp it!! That is why profession installer always crimp. End of story!!
Nice discussion and show and tell. My only comment is I think you contaminated your solder joint with melted plastic insulation which could compromise the strength and electrical conductivity of the joint. Trim off a little more insulation so you don't do that would be preferable to me.
I think you didn't mention about the type of solder you used. It is very important to use some sort of flux, I think you have flux core solder. Also the cheesy jumper cable clamp isn't strong enough for me, I used vise grips. Check out T Wagner's video.
Should the ends of the cables be tinned before inserting them into the well?
Not necessarily no