I am watching all your videos. Do you know a book that I can read about step by step instructions on troubleshooting a trouble signal for a Fire Alarm System too? Thank you.
Here in Europe, we have something called a Multi-sensor, they incorporate a smoke sensor and a heat sensor. I have heard a few American brands make one, not sure if Notifier or Fire-Lite make one. Would be a cool addition if they did. Edit: They do! Fire-Lite makes the SD365T-IV Detector which has smoke and heat capabilities.
Yes that is the one I was talking about with the multi criteria detector although I’m not sure how the programming works on them I know they can be set up where both smoke and heat have to be there for it to activate I’m not sure if they can be set up with just one will activate the detector
@@nics-systems-electric There's also the AD365 and the SD365CO, they not only have smoke and heat, they also have IR for more false alarm prevention. SD365CO has everything the AD365 has but also has a seperate CO alarm.
I don’t know if you already have something like this, but you should add a fire lite relay module to that slc and with a monitor module, use an emergency power off button so the relay can shutdown the generator, that would be cool
There isn't anything right now as it is a portable generator so there isn't really any terminals to hook up a shut down contact the standby generators and large permanent ones usually do have a few terminals for shut down/emergency stop however if I looked into it could probably find a way to do it
hope to become as good as you soon enough, I just recently got in the alarm field like 3 weeks ago haha. I love your videos man, keep up the great work!
Great pipe work man! Are you isolating the loop at any point? If not I think we’d all love to see an install of isolator modules on the sent and return at the panel and where the loop leaves the building for the tower and generator room and back in to the shop. Great work man!
I do not have any isolators currently but the tower and other small shed are on a conventional circuit so so anything there would not take down the rest of the SLC
I watched your previous video about the AC waveform from your generator, but I forgot to comment. For what it’s worth, I’ve run quite a bit of computer equipment and other sensitive electronics off of a similar generator with a poor waveform. I’ve never really experienced any problems from doing so. I think that as long as you’re only using the generator to run your equipment for short periods of time, like during blackouts, it shouldn’t really be an issue. A lot of UPS units that are made for running computers and critical systems have a “modified sine wave output,” which is comparable to the dirty sine wave that portable generators put out. I think your best bet is just to keep the generator you have. I doubt you’ll have any issues with equipment breakage.
Nice new drill, i have the same but with a bigger battery, the only downside is that the motor gets hot very fast when you drill for a long time continuously with it
I like the three amp hour high outputs for portable things like drills the fives and bigger are just more annoying the 3 are nice and light but the high output ones have the same power as the fives it seems
You could just that unless I’m watching it constantly it wouldn’t do any good to see something after the fact if you know what I mean but that might be cool
I would've just asked if you could borrow a laptop with the Notifier/Fire-Lite software to program the panel especially the description of the areas lol
Something that I think Honeywell should do is just brand the devices as system sensor, and list comparability as most honeywell addressable fire panels. Also, I have seen mixed devices in the wild. I’ve seen a BG-12SLX branded by gamewell used on a fire lite system that replaced an older gamewell system. It seems to work just fine, but that is in Iowa and I really haven’t seen that anywhere else.
@@Fire-Lite457 If it’s under the compatibility list then it’s fine otherwise no i’m not saying that’s the way it is but the way it should be makes things less complicated and would be nice if there were products that aren’t protocol specific and will work off multiple protocols it would be nice if all panels owned by Honeywell could use the same devices for the most part
@@Fire-Lite457 I’ve seen mixed brands in at least one building. I’m guessing they were just like, “Hey, These devices are still working. Let’s just leave them and replace the panel.” Because the system would be inspected as well, and so I guess The inspector decided it was fine. And that has been this way for a couple years.
@@nics-systems-electric they already kind of do. System sensor has intelligent detectors listed on their webpage, that are the exact same as the notifier, fire lite, sk, and Gamewell devices.
Paint doesn’t seem to like to stick to EMT in the sun too well I don’t really mind the look of it when it’s on the gray it would just look not as great if it was on the black
Good video, I had a big system installed but sold the system off. I might construct a miniature system on plywood. Are you into amateur radio? I have an amateur radio license and DMR license and I do listen mainly to Broward County Transit, Fire Dispatch, EMS Dispatch, and when they are out on the calls. I only use Motorola radios. I do own the programming software.
Demonstration systems on a board are always cool and no I’m not really into amateur radio as I don’t know anything about it but it does sound pretty cool
@@nics-systems-electric I use Amateur Radio for a lot of stuff. If you do get into Amateur Radio, look at Motorola TRBO radios. Motorola radios are a bit pricey but worth the money and the software is PC based and costs under $100.
Detectors that are heat and smoke don't need both heat and smoke to activate, if there's smoke it'll activate as a smoke detector if there's heat it'll activate as a heat detector. I hope this helps!
Thanks yeah I think it depends on the detector I know I have conventional ones that are like that were either smoke or heat will activate the detector but I have heard that the dual criteria addressable ones require both maybe that was miss information
Well the exhaust is vented directly outside and the fan should suck enough air through for the generator to not heat up the building I doubt it will ever get to 57c 135f in there
Hey. I wanna ask a question, about the NAC's. When I'm wiring up L-series (2 wire ones) Do I send a pair of wires out to the device(s) and at the last device loop a pair of wires back to the panel? Thanks, I'm just stuck on this because I'm not sure how you have your shed wired up. -Cary
the only time you would come back to the panel would be if it’s a class A loop which is only for SLCs not NAC circuits so you would just go from your panel to your device to the next one and at the end of your circuit go to your end of line resistor
There would be no point of having a annunciator in the house unless I had devices in the house but I’m pretty sure that would cause too many problems with false alarms and people removing devices and being at general pain it would be nice but I don’t think it would work
@@lightningking1552 I know I’m saying tho there’s no point of having any annunciator in the house though if there’s no devices in the house and I know devices in the house would just cause problems with people removing them and false alarms it would be nice to add devices and a annunciator in the house I just don’t think it would work
@@lightningking1552 not much you can do really it’s only an 8 foot ceiling I just know for a fact detectors will go off and they’ll be taken down and it’ll put the system into trouble and just be a pain in the ass
Also the reason the notifier detectors work on your system is that the 9200UDLS might not be looking for the notifier identity code that’s programmed into the detector assuming your system is polling the loop in CLIP mode, unless LiteSpeed on the 9200UDLS isn’t looking for the identity code either. Can someone else confirm this?
@@nics-systems-electric ik i just did my room wall with boxes and stuff and i’m waiting for prices to go back down right now i’m just using plastic loomex connectors and wire with no conduit
Your videos are outstanding. Thank you!
I am watching all your videos. Do you know a book that I can read about step by step instructions on troubleshooting a trouble signal for a Fire Alarm System too? Thank you.
Hi cool video! Stay safe and have fun! ...
Thanks
cool video verry intresting keep up the work love your videos
Here in Europe, we have something called a Multi-sensor, they incorporate a smoke sensor and a heat sensor. I have heard a few American brands make one, not sure if Notifier or Fire-Lite make one. Would be a cool addition if they did.
Edit: They do! Fire-Lite makes the SD365T-IV Detector which has smoke and heat capabilities.
Yes that is the one I was talking about with the multi criteria detector although I’m not sure how the programming works on them I know they can be set up where both smoke and heat have to be there for it to activate I’m not sure if they can be set up with just one will activate the detector
@@nics-systems-electric There's also the AD365 and the SD365CO, they not only have smoke and heat, they also have IR for more false alarm prevention. SD365CO has everything the AD365 has but also has a seperate CO alarm.
What I haven’t seen a Circle junction box before! This is a new thing I lerend!
I don’t know if you already have something like this, but you should add a fire lite relay module to that slc and with a monitor module, use an emergency power off button so the relay can shutdown the generator, that would be cool
There isn't anything right now as it is a portable generator so there isn't really any terminals to hook up a shut down contact the standby generators and large permanent ones usually do have a few terminals for shut down/emergency stop however if I looked into it could probably find a way to do it
hope to become as good as you soon enough, I just recently got in the alarm field like 3 weeks ago haha. I love your videos man, keep up the great work!
thanks I’m sure you will glad you enjoyed the videos
Your hoodie has seen better days.
It’s better that way
Great pipe work man! Are you isolating the loop at any point? If not I think we’d all love to see an install of isolator modules on the sent and return at the panel and where the loop leaves the building for the tower and generator room and back in to the shop. Great work man!
I do not have any isolators currently but the tower and other small shed are on a conventional circuit so so anything there would not take down the rest of the SLC
Oh my god I’m so sorry about well just to let no I bet she loved you so much and she’s in a better place now.❤
I watched your previous video about the AC waveform from your generator, but I forgot to comment. For what it’s worth, I’ve run quite a bit of computer equipment and other sensitive electronics off of a similar generator with a poor waveform. I’ve never really experienced any problems from doing so. I think that as long as you’re only using the generator to run your equipment for short periods of time, like during blackouts, it shouldn’t really be an issue. A lot of UPS units that are made for running computers and critical systems have a “modified sine wave output,” which is comparable to the dirty sine wave that portable generators put out. I think your best bet is just to keep the generator you have. I doubt you’ll have any issues with equipment breakage.
Nice dust cover collection!
Yessir
Nice new drill, i have the same but with a bigger battery, the only downside is that the motor gets hot very fast when you drill for a long time continuously with it
I like the three amp hour high outputs for portable things like drills the fives and bigger are just more annoying the 3 are nice and light but the high output ones have the same power as the fives it seems
@@nics-systems-electric the reason why i have the bigger batteries is because that’s what i got with my drill and impact kit
@@NyxKemo Yeah I’ve got a couple fives too I like to use them in vacuums and lights stuff that don’t need to be lightweight
Bit random but you should a camera in the generator room so you can keep an eye on it while inside your garage
You could just that unless I’m watching it constantly it wouldn’t do any good to see something after the fact if you know what I mean but that might be cool
@@nics-systems-electric yeah just a bit of a random project if you get bored
Great video !
Thanks glad you enjoyed
I would've just asked if you could borrow a laptop with the Notifier/Fire-Lite software to program the panel especially the description of the areas lol
It’s not that bad really just takes maybe couple minutes each
Wow pretty cool
Thanks
Nice!
Something that I think Honeywell should do is just brand the devices as system sensor, and list comparability as most honeywell addressable fire panels. Also, I have seen mixed devices in the wild. I’ve seen a BG-12SLX branded by gamewell used on a fire lite system that replaced an older gamewell system. It seems to work just fine, but that is in Iowa and I really haven’t seen that anywhere else.
Yeah just brand everything honeywell At least for the devices that will work on different panels
@@Fire-Lite457 If it’s under the compatibility list then it’s fine otherwise no i’m not saying that’s the way it is but the way it should be makes things less complicated and would be nice if there were products that aren’t protocol specific and will work off multiple protocols it would be nice if all panels owned by Honeywell could use the same devices for the most part
@@Fire-Lite457 I’ve seen mixed brands in at least one building. I’m guessing they were just like, “Hey, These devices are still working. Let’s just leave them and replace the panel.” Because the system would be inspected as well, and so I guess The inspector decided it was fine. And that has been this way for a couple years.
@@nics-systems-electric they already kind of do. System sensor has intelligent detectors listed on their webpage, that are the exact same as the notifier, fire lite, sk, and Gamewell devices.
@@Fire-Lite457 but I don’t think Johnson controls does that anymore, since they own simplex and auto call now.
I bought a ps/2 plug style keyboard and type from the pc keyboard when I had my ms-9600udls, looks like yours might have one too
Suggestion: Maybe you can Spraypaint the conduit to blend in with the wall?
Paint doesn’t seem to like to stick to EMT in the sun too well I don’t really mind the look of it when it’s on the gray it would just look not as great if it was on the black
cool video and have more videos to come they should have wifi fire system honey well should buld one with wifi and send you a email
Good video, I had a big system installed but sold the system off. I might construct a miniature system on plywood.
Are you into amateur radio? I have an amateur radio license and DMR license and I do listen mainly to Broward County Transit, Fire Dispatch, EMS Dispatch, and when they are out on the calls. I only use Motorola radios. I do own the programming software.
Demonstration systems on a board are always cool and no I’m not really into amateur radio as I don’t know anything about it but it does sound pretty cool
@@nics-systems-electric I use Amateur Radio for a lot of stuff. If you do get into Amateur Radio, look at Motorola TRBO radios. Motorola radios are a bit pricey but worth the money and the software is PC based and costs under $100.
@@FireAlarmHowTooGuy OK thanks good to know
Detectors that are heat and smoke don't need both heat and smoke to activate, if there's smoke it'll activate as a smoke detector if there's heat it'll activate as a heat detector. I hope this helps!
Thanks yeah I think it depends on the detector I know I have conventional ones that are like that were either smoke or heat will activate the detector but I have heard that the dual criteria addressable ones require both maybe that was miss information
@@nics-systems-electric that’s only if it’s setup in the program that way. And generally that’s only used in situations where prealarm is setup
Won’t the heat from being outside or fumes from generator set them off?
Well the exhaust is vented directly outside and the fan should suck enough air through for the generator to not heat up the building I doubt it will ever get to 57c 135f in there
Do u put resistors on system sensor heat detector? Or just only smoke detectors.
Neither
Hey. I wanna ask a question, about the NAC's. When I'm wiring up L-series (2 wire ones) Do I send a pair of wires out to the device(s) and at the last device loop a pair of wires back to the panel? Thanks, I'm just stuck on this because I'm not sure how you have your shed wired up. -Cary
the only time you would come back to the panel would be if it’s a class A loop which is only for SLCs not NAC circuits so you would just go from your panel to your device to the next one and at the end of your circuit go to your end of line resistor
@@nics-systems-electric Alright. Is that what you do for your panel?
cool
Are youre outdoor notification appliances horn strobes or strobes
Strobe
@@nics-systems-electric ok
Should I make a. Video testing the emergency lights at my apartments
Up to you
Ok I will then thx
4:52 Remote strobe
you know nic, if u save up for an annunciator, u can wire that in to ur house
There would be no point of having a annunciator in the house unless I had devices in the house but I’m pretty sure that would cause too many problems with false alarms and people removing devices and being at general pain it would be nice but I don’t think it would work
@@nics-systems-electric yeah but you can disable the piezo
@@lightningking1552 I know I’m saying tho there’s no point of having any annunciator in the house though if there’s no devices in the house and I know devices in the house would just cause problems with people removing them and false alarms it would be nice to add devices and a annunciator in the house I just don’t think it would work
that sucks, if i were you, id keep them out of reach
@@lightningking1552 not much you can do really it’s only an 8 foot ceiling I just know for a fact detectors will go off and they’ll be taken down and it’ll put the system into trouble and just be a pain in the ass
I thought you were gonna put a Horn Strobe outside because the Mounting bracket looked different
are you using firewarden series for the fsp-951?
I think the firewarden versions might be called something else these are just the normal FSP 951 for notifier Onyx panels
Yeah the version for the firewarden panels are called NP200s
@@nics-systems-electric nice
i figured you would be using it since firewarden is practically the same as fire lite panels
@@lightningking1552 Yeah the Onyx series devices work fine on fire warden/fire lite you just can’t use fire warden Devices on onyx panels I believe
Do you live in Canada Winnipeg?
MS-9200ULS
Also the reason the notifier detectors work on your system is that the 9200UDLS might not be looking for the notifier identity code that’s programmed into the detector assuming your system is polling the loop in CLIP mode, unless LiteSpeed on the 9200UDLS isn’t looking for the identity code either. Can someone else confirm this?
I am using litespeed protocol
how are the detectors getting power when it's pulling it from the alarm. wouldn't it only get power when the system is in alarm?
I'm sorry I don't really understand what you're asking The detectors get powered off the SLC just like any other addressable device
@@nics-systems-electric oh, thanks
6:55 Don't splice with the AC Power running!
This isn't AC even if it was there are ways you can work live safely people do it every
@@nics-systems-electricOh. Also, what happens when you have two of the same address? or does the panel just not care?
is conduit expensive as hell for you too?
Not sure it was just laying around
@@nics-systems-electric it’s like 25 dollars for 10 feet here in ontario idk how it is on your side
@@literalyammer Wow I just looking and $23 that is absolutely ridiculous better not make mistakes lol
@@nics-systems-electric ik i just did my room wall with boxes and stuff and i’m waiting for prices to go back down right now i’m just using plastic loomex connectors and wire with no conduit
46:18 I though your generator was an Energizer.
It is, this video is when I had the old one
@@nics-systems-electric Oh ok I get confused a lot it is common with me
okay next video, you can install a intercom speakers and ceiling speakers okay?
to make sure to buy pa and intercom speakers right?
I don’t have any plans on installing a PA system
hey Bima, we need to buy a intercom pa ceiling speaker right now!
oh crap my panels beeping some one stole my strobe 8:58
Lol but facts. XDXDXDXD Or in other terms: Strobe: *gets pulled off base*. Panel: BEEEEEEP! BEEEEEEEEP! BEEEEEEEP! forever.
2:59 what about Annunciators?
What about them
@@nics-systems-electric think those are interchangeable
If it's a firewarden series or 10 UD/5UD series then yes they will work on each other's brands however not legally listed
If he keeps this up his whole building while just be made out of conduit
I'm 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢 my grandmother died
Awww that is sad
@@baseballlion1615 I miss her so much 😢
It's my birthday!!!!
Hbd
can i have a pull stashin
If you buy one
I meant to say cool
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