Hey bud. I've been a contractor tor for over 20 years and was a trade teacher for years. I wish I had this video to show my students. You did an excellent job explaining and doing this layout. Good work brother! Thank you for this. I'm gonna share it with other instructors I know. I always put a saw kerf in the board so I can easily reset the string. That's really all I can add.
You have no idea how important this class is ... I am coming back with a pen & paper 📜... And yes redo my entire house ... Thank you a million for the details. . . love from Kenya
Thanks Stan, watching this a few days before starting my house build. Super simple to understand to give first time string liners a little confidence...keep on
The best video on this topic. I'm about to start building a large deck on uneven ground and this has been an absolute lifesaver. Thanks (and hello from the UK).
If you had taller piers would start with a low string and do the same at a higher level? Do you have any suggestions for keeping out animals underneath a floor above the ground on piers? Great videos. Really helped a lot.
If you wanted piers that were 4 blocks high instead of one like I did, you would just calculate the height of those four blocks with mortar lines and set your batter boards at that height. As far as keeping critters out from under the building use skirting of your choice. Always maintain airflow under the building. So don't fill the space under the floor with garbage and other nonsense. If you use a solid material like sheet metal instead of a lattice style skirting cut vents in the skirting every 8 feet or so.
I really enjoy how you teach . Question: If I’m laying down a footing on a downhill slope. Is it the escavators job to take less dirt on the low point or remove more dirt on the high point or does he first level out the entire area before he digs out the footing ? God bless
I'm assuming you are talking about a continuous footer on a slope? If the grade cannot be leveled or it is cost prohibitive to level the site out then you would use "step footers". In that instance you take more from the high point and less from the low point until you get to your step. Then you start all over again. However, all of the footer must be the required depth called for by code in your area. I live in Florida and we always level the grade. Step footers are rarely used here.
Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video….I found it very helpful as I’m about to start a greenhouse project. My one question is if one should fuss over the rebar pins being perfectly perpendicular? It seems that if they weren’t you could easily be adding or subtracting and extra 1/2 inch or so.
No, it is not an issue. Why would it not be an issue? Because you already know what your diagonal measurement should be and you are checking that measurement on multiple occasions. The pins are for visual reference. The tape measure has the final say.
This is great on mostly level ground, but any tips for doing this on a more dramatic slope? It's not like I can just lay a tape out on the ground, because the slope of the ground would make my distance measurement inaccurate.
It's actually not different at all. Pier and beam systems are the preferred foundation on slopped ground. You see buildings with piers a foot tall on one side and 4 feet tall on the opposite side. Don't get distracted by how level or slopped the ground is. Only two things matter. Footer 12 inches below frost line and the top of each pier level.
Love the video. I'm building a she shed for the wife and this helps a lot. What is the name of that lazer level your using. I'm using string levels right now. Crossing my fingers my level lines are correct. I wanna invest in a lazer level, but they are so expensive.
I don't remember the brand name off hand. It's been with me for awhile. I don't recommend spending the money for laser levels for the basic homeowner that may only use it a couple times at most. String bubble levels are fine for small projects like she sheds. Good luck and enjoy the build process.
@@simplyeasydiy thank for taking the time and sharing that information. So yes I've been very successful so far with a string, line bubble and a 4' level
Great videos, I’m learning a lot before I start my backyard storage shed! One question I’ve got. If cinder blocks actually measure 7 1/2” wide why is it that your 2” X 10” (actually 9 1/2” wide”) sill plates match the width of your cinder blocks? They look like 2” X 8” boards. Is this a video induced illusion? Thanks. Terry
I need to buy a laser level. I’ll use it on about 4 or 5 projects and then it will not get used much after that. Any suggestion on what one you’d consider purchasing?
If you're talking about one like what I have in this video I wouldn't buy one if you only have a few projects to do. Their are other methods of leveling that are just as accurate without laying out several hundred dollars. Get a line level set and be done.
Just out of curiosity what brand of laser level are you using and have you been happy with it? I have an old school transit and was looking into one of these.
I have a question! Why couldnt you have just wrapped the string around the pins instead of attaching them to the board and adjusting the nails? Could have gotten them level with a helper and the same laser lever you used to level the boards, no? Great video, thank you
Very interesting that Stan you must have the patience of a saint to be getting those measurements spot on, if that was me i would be pulling my beard off by now. It would be the hair on my head but there isn't much left on it ha ha ha. Looking forward to the next instalment of the Workshop build. Stay Safe Mate and the rest of the S family, Barry (ENG)
This is a good question. A lot of You tubers will tell you that every step in the construction process must be perfect. Everything must be "Plumb, square and true" at every step in order for it to be right. I think they do this in order to maintain a majestic quality to their content and the industry. In reality no wall is plumb and no corner is 90 degrees. In reality, every step, from laying out the foundation to doing the finishing work is a honing process. Every step should get you closer to a square building. The pins are not the end all, be all step for a square building. Should they be as straight and secure as possible? Yes. Will your building be something out of a Dr. Seuss book if they are a quarter bubble off plumb? No. If you are off a little here you can still bring it back in line when you set the piers and again when the sill plates go on. In fact you could be perfect here only to be off after you set the sill plates.
@@simplyeasydiy Thank you for your reply and insight. I am and have been trying to set out a concrete pad for a shed over the last week. I stuffed up my string lines I thought I had them right but didn't go back and check all the measurements of the actual width and length. I moved my strings too much and thought I had it right due to the diagonal measurement being the same. Pegged in all my boxing yesterday only to realise it's 80mm larger on one end. So now I have to undo it all and set out again. It's been so frustrating.
Stan, love these videos, thanks man. I was considering building a block shed in my back yard. The water table in my area is, I would say, definitely lower than yours, though I do get "low spot" puddles during heavy rains. My plan for a foundation was basically to have a 16 inch wide x 40 inch deep footer poured (I live in Ohio and the frost line is 32 inches). Would probably construct some sort of rebar skeleton within the footer. Does this sound like I'm on the right track in your opinion?
If your frost line is 32" then according to the code in my area the footer would need to be 44" deep. Code here is 12" below the frost line. You would need to verify if it is the same in your area. Rebar in footers are code as well. I have a video on footers that was posted just after this one. Check it out. Good Luck.
Hey bud. I've been a contractor tor for over 20 years and was a trade teacher for years. I wish I had this video to show my students. You did an excellent job explaining and doing this layout. Good work brother! Thank you for this. I'm gonna share it with other instructors I know. I always put a saw kerf in the board so I can easily reset the string. That's really all I can add.
I appreciate the kind words. Always appreciate additional tips. They help out everyone.
20 years used to seem like a long time. . .
yes, much appreciated sir. great work explaining everything
You have no idea how important this class is ... I am coming back with a pen & paper 📜... And yes redo my entire house ... Thank you a million for the details. . . love from Kenya
Love the enthusiasm!
Thanks Stan, watching this a few days before starting my house build. Super simple to understand to give first time string liners a little confidence...keep on
Great to hear! Good luck on your build.
The best video on this topic. I'm about to start building a large deck on uneven ground and this has been an absolute lifesaver. Thanks (and hello from the UK).
Glad it was helpful!
These are great videos Stan, helps me understand what batter boards are used for in construction for a building.
Glad to hear it!
It's a nice video for engineering students in Building. Keep it up to continue inflicting building skills to leaners
Thanks a lot
This was an excellent tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
You're very welcome!
If you had taller piers would start with a low string and do the same at a higher level?
Do you have any suggestions for keeping out animals underneath a floor above the ground on piers? Great videos. Really helped a lot.
If you wanted piers that were 4 blocks high instead of one like I did, you would just calculate the height of those four blocks with mortar lines and set your batter boards at that height.
As far as keeping critters out from under the building use skirting of your choice. Always maintain airflow under the building. So don't fill the space under the floor with garbage and other nonsense. If you use a solid material like sheet metal instead of a lattice style skirting cut vents in the skirting every 8 feet or so.
I really enjoy how you teach . Question: If I’m laying down a footing on a downhill slope. Is it the escavators job to take less dirt on the low point or remove more dirt on the high point or does he first level out the entire area before he digs out the footing ? God bless
I'm assuming you are talking about a continuous footer on a slope? If the grade cannot be leveled or it is cost prohibitive to level the site out then you would use "step footers". In that instance you take more from the high point and less from the low point until you get to your step. Then you start all over again. However, all of the footer must be the required depth called for by code in your area. I live in Florida and we always level the grade. Step footers are rarely used here.
Gotcha. Yeah It’s only 100 sq meters 10x10 it shouldn’t be to costly . Thanks a mil bud
Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video….I found it very helpful as I’m about to start a greenhouse project. My one question is if one should fuss over the rebar pins being perfectly perpendicular? It seems that if they weren’t you could easily be adding or subtracting and extra 1/2 inch or so.
No, it is not an issue. Why would it not be an issue? Because you already know what your diagonal measurement should be and you are checking that measurement on multiple occasions. The pins are for visual reference. The tape measure has the final say.
This is great on mostly level ground, but any tips for doing this on a more dramatic slope? It's not like I can just lay a tape out on the ground, because the slope of the ground would make my distance measurement inaccurate.
It's actually not different at all. Pier and beam systems are the preferred foundation on slopped ground. You see buildings with piers a foot tall on one side and 4 feet tall on the opposite side. Don't get distracted by how level or slopped the ground is. Only two things matter. Footer 12 inches below frost line and the top of each pier level.
Love the video. I'm building a she shed for the wife and this helps a lot. What is the name of that lazer level your using. I'm using string levels right now. Crossing my fingers my level lines are correct. I wanna invest in a lazer level, but they are so expensive.
I don't remember the brand name off hand. It's been with me for awhile. I don't recommend spending the money for laser levels for the basic homeowner that may only use it a couple times at most. String bubble levels are fine for small projects like she sheds. Good luck and enjoy the build process.
@@simplyeasydiy thank for taking the time and sharing that information. So yes I've been very successful so far with a string, line bubble and a 4' level
Thanks for taking the time to share this info.
My pleasure!
I'm using this method for my solar Foundation footers
Great videos, I’m learning a lot before I start my backyard storage shed! One question I’ve got. If cinder blocks actually measure 7 1/2” wide why is it that your 2” X 10” (actually 9 1/2” wide”) sill plates match the width of your cinder blocks? They look like 2” X 8” boards. Is this a video induced illusion? Thanks. Terry
Sill plates are pressure treated 2x8's. Floor and Rim joists are 2x10's
I need to buy a laser level.
I’ll use it on about 4 or 5 projects and then it will not get used much after that.
Any suggestion on what one you’d consider purchasing?
If you're talking about one like what I have in this video I wouldn't buy one if you only have a few projects to do. Their are other methods of leveling that are just as accurate without laying out several hundred dollars. Get a line level set and be done.
Good vid with lots of info. Just about to start my project, so this will help a lot. Thanks
Good luck!
Nicely done!
Thanks!
Ah yes, I miss the golden days of SportsCenter. Definitely looking into getting one of these for building a shop out back. Thanks!
As cool as the other side of the pillow. 🙃
I need to have some kids. I cant tell you how many times I could have used someone to hold the tape measure for me!!
Just out of curiosity what brand of laser level are you using and have you been happy with it? I have an old school transit and was looking into one of these.
Huepar. I have not had an issues with it. Been on countless job sites over the years.
excellent. and your chickens love you.
I have a question! Why couldnt you have just wrapped the string around the pins instead of attaching them to the board and adjusting the nails? Could have gotten them level with a helper and the same laser lever you used to level the boards, no? Great video, thank you
If you watch the next video in the series that may answer your question.
@simplyeasydiy I did end up watching them all and yeah, it was answered. 😄
Thank you bro 🙏 your good
No problem
what a beautiful lovely family ☺
You are so kind
good work
Thanks
Incredibly helpful video, thank you!
Glad it helped.
Very interesting that Stan you must have the patience of a saint to be getting those measurements spot on, if that was me i would be pulling my beard off by now. It would be the hair on my head but there isn't much left on it ha ha ha.
Looking forward to the next instalment of the Workshop build.
Stay Safe Mate and the rest of the S family,
Barry (ENG)
Thank you Mr. Barry. It does take a certain amount of patience.
@@simplyeasydiy Who's Mr Barry?
i thought we were friends, and my friends call me Barry without the Mr bit.
ha ha ha.
Barry (ENG)
Can someone explain why he used 11 ft 11.25 in instead of 12'?
What kind of pants are those?
I'm not sure I understood how you could garantee the strings were perpendicular.
Nice job
Thanks!
Very useful
wonderful
Wouldn't it be easier to use a line level instead of that leveling machine?
Do whatever works for you.
Thanks mate really nice
No problem 👍
How important is having your corner pin exactly level stright up and down? Does this not change the actual squareness of the string lines?
This is a good question. A lot of You tubers will tell you that every step in the construction process must be perfect. Everything must be "Plumb, square and true" at every step in order for it to be right. I think they do this in order to maintain a majestic quality to their content and the industry. In reality no wall is plumb and no corner is 90 degrees. In reality, every step, from laying out the foundation to doing the finishing work is a honing process. Every step should get you closer to a square building. The pins are not the end all, be all step for a square building. Should they be as straight and secure as possible? Yes. Will your building be something out of a Dr. Seuss book if they are a quarter bubble off plumb? No. If you are off a little here you can still bring it back in line when you set the piers and again when the sill plates go on. In fact you could be perfect here only to be off after you set the sill plates.
@@simplyeasydiy Thank you for your reply and insight. I am and have been trying to set out a concrete pad for a shed over the last week. I stuffed up my string lines I thought I had them right but didn't go back and check all the measurements of the actual width and length. I moved my strings too much and thought I had it right due to the diagonal measurement being the same. Pegged in all my boxing yesterday only to realise it's 80mm larger on one end. So now I have to undo it all and set out again. It's been so frustrating.
Nice chickens.
Thanks
I've seen more projects messed up because of not using batter boards,
More videos❤
Stan, love these videos, thanks man. I was considering building a block shed in my back yard. The water table in my area is, I would say, definitely lower than yours, though I do get "low spot" puddles during heavy rains. My plan for a foundation was basically to have a 16 inch wide x 40 inch deep footer poured (I live in Ohio and the frost line is 32 inches). Would probably construct some sort of rebar skeleton within the footer. Does this sound like I'm on the right track in your opinion?
If your frost line is 32" then according to the code in my area the footer would need to be 44" deep. Code here is 12" below the frost line. You would need to verify if it is the same in your area. Rebar in footers are code as well. I have a video on footers that was posted just after this one. Check it out. Good Luck.
😂😂
Hammer on my hand😂
Big hammer would’ve helped you
Couldn't find my big hammer. I didn't have a workshop.