Clearvue CV1800 Noise Reduction
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- Опубликовано: 22 сен 2024
- This was my attempt to reducing the noise on the Clearvue CV-1800 cyclone in my wood shop. The shop itself had no noise absorbing panels on the ceiling or walls and I may add some in time but for right now the reduction obtained from the enclosure is enough with hearing protection. The cyclone had a measured noise level of 89-90 decibels before installation of the enclosure and 80-81 after enclosure. 83 decibels with the door open approximately four inches.
The biggest thing to note is that the cyclone needs a lot more open space in the wall than I first recognized or else the closet will build up internal pressure thus creating back pressure on the unit. This could be why some people have reported issues with the motor overheating. On a positive note the baffle system in the top did work as planned so I intend to install two more. If I was building it over again this is what I probable would do.
1) Build enclosure large enough for some access around cyclone.
2) Cover existing walls and ceiling if possible with Owens-Corning Pure Safety High performance insulation. Found at Home Depot.
3) Build enclosure walls with 2x6’s and install double layer of Pure Safety Insulation.
If you go on amazon you can buy foam egg crate style panels to four inches thick. I am planning to put some small areas an inch thick above the machines to dampen the echo in the shop.
Nice one - thanks for sharing David. Regarding the air outlet on your enclosure, from my research on an australian woodwoking forum on this subject many say the cross-section area of the outlet should be at least twice the cross section area of the outlet of the cyclone unit.
Thanks I recently moved and the new shop has the cyclone motor and drum in the garage side and the filters in the shop side. I use a Radio Shack Db meter and I have readings at about 92 sub division unfriendly. I first installed my Clearvue in 07 and built a shed onto the back of the shop, the build is still on the Clearvue forum It was a bigger shop and bigger lot. New house small lot small shop. When finishing the basement I researched sound reduction and from what I can tell double wall with 5/8 rock board is the best bang for the buck. They called it a room within a room and they also used a green sound insulation caulk. If I can knock it down to about -80 ish it should be good. Thanks again.
Your reply peaked my interest and I looked up and found a video concerning Quiet Rock which is an internally laminated sheet rock. One sheet is supposed to be equivalent to six sheets of standard drywall. Sounds like a good alternative. If I rebuild these walls I will make the room bigger so maintenance of the cyclone can be done. I was worried about losing space in the shop but I would rahter have room around the cyclone. Let me know how it works out for you. Thanks
@@davidpape9726 This is the guy I learned the most from his page is
Home RenoVision DIY
on you tube and while the best sound proofing was a bit much for my basement budget a small closet should be manageable
Great video, thanks. I’m looking to build an enclosure for my dust collection but I think I’m going to build it on the exterior of my building, piping it in through the wall.
I have considered that and may end up doing that in the future. My shop is temerature controlled so if the unit is outsdie of the shop enclosure the interior conditioned air will be pulled out so you will need to some how allow air flow back into the shop or the energy costs will go up. You are right having it in another room you could keep your shop noise down to a minimum.
if you want really solid noise isolation, build two walls for it. A room inside of a room, with a decent size air gap between the walls. 3/4 inch or thicker material is ideal but even stuff like osb works decent. You would want solid core doors for both walls and make them as air tight as possible. If you can see light coming through the doors or walls, that's where all the sound is leaking out.
Another thing if possible is to face the air outlet so it isn't pointing back into the room. Directing it at the floor is a really good option, especially with concrete floors. Just be careful it doesn't kick up stray dust back into the air.
Try it on a small scale to see the results :). Hope it helps anyone
This takes 4x the amount of work and cost, practicality becomes an issue. He did great as is.
Really useful video, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks
As you discovered, insulation is not designed to deaden sound. What you need for sound deadening is MASS. The cinder block suggestion is a good one, but not practical. I’d suggest using a couple of layers of cement board. . . The thicker, the better. That should make a difference.
Thanks for the suggestion. One of the main objectives was that the walls were a modular design allowing for easy removal in case of needed repairs. Cement board would be to heavy. As it is the insulation reduced the noise level fifty percent and brought it down below the action level requiring hearing protection.
You could always try just enclosing the motor area. You'd obviously still need air exchange to cool the motor, but a small baffle would likely suffice since the filter would be outside the enclosure.
Look into mass loaded vinyl for this application, it's thin and could be applied to the back of the door and over the mineral wool as well as hung in front of (a few inches) the baffle.
David: The foil lamination on door styrene is reflecting sound instead of absorbing.. try open cell foam like used in a gun case. For the baffles.. If you can make an accordian-style for the outer wall of the baffle that should help too. Awesome job!!
Thanks I will try it
For better sound proofing you need two walls with an air gap between them.
Thanks for your video. You've provided considerable useful information for everyone with a dust collector. Your use of a prehung hollow core door is a good idea, a solid core door may be better at blocking sound. Would increasing the capacity of your baffle system at the top to allow more air to pass back into the shop be enough to eliminate the need for the return air outlet next to the door? Also, do you think the reduction of noise you've achieved may be good enough, especially since the noise coming from the table saw and other machines are so loud? Thank you, you video has been very helpful to me.
Some of the noise on the CV-1800 which is the same as the now renamed CV-1700 is the velocity of the air through the six inch trunk line due to the 16 inch impeller. You need density plus change in density to disrupt sound waves and of course an uneven surface inside helps to break up sound waves.
The vent in the wall along the door was only added after it was evident the original vent at the top of the wall was not enough. Venting at the top of the wall is much preferred so that all the hot air generated by the motor is dissipated as much as possible so the thermal breaker does not trip on the motor. Even with the venting I have now if the door is left unlatched the blower will open the door about four inches. The slight positive pressure in the closet has not been a problem.
I was trying to keep the walls light so they could be removed if I needed to work on the cyclone. If I was doing over again I would build the closet bigger and use noise reduction sheetrock with green glue then for a density change install the same noise reduction insulation or green Sonopan. Sonopan on the door would also be a good idea. It is my plan to add a layer of noise reduction sheet rock with green glue in between to the walls and door.
The OSHA requires hearing protection at 85 decibels for a TWA of 8 hours and right now I am at 80 decibels of course the average would be lower. Normal talking is in the sixties. I do not believe you are going to get it much below 75 due to the trunk line noise but I could be wrong.
I have a loud one like that. I think cinder blocks would be a better way to attenuate the annoying sound. Another idea is to cancel it with a loud speaker. That would be a big experiment.
My extractor is super noisy. It's not the motor, it's the pleated filter that seams to be the source of an unbearable drone. I'm about to build a cabinet for mine and was most interested to learn of the back pressure issues and baffling system you were implementing.Thanks, you've given me some useful information to work with.
I do however have some info that may be useful for tweaking your cabinet.
The styrofoam/polystyrene on the door isn't doing anything for sound absorbtion. XPS foam/high density insulation foam, commonly used under concrete slabs, is a fairly good lightweight sound absorber.
You should also seal all the gaps that aren't baffles, i.e. rubber seals for your door frame. Simply put, gaps let out high frequency noise and only density will reduce low frequencies.
Good luck and keep up the good work.
thanks for sharing your experience. What is the exterior dimension of your closet? And what would you recommend if doing it again? (I think you said you wanted an additional foot of clearance?)
The exterior dimensions currently are 38” by 52” and if built again I would add 18 to 24 inches to each wall so that entry into the closet was possible for needed maintenance. The main reason that was not done in the first place was I did not want to cover the window. I would also add a couple layers of Quiet Rock to the exterior of the walls with the caulking inbetween and one layer inside again with caulking between the Quiet Rock and the studs. As it is now I was able to cut the sound down by fifity percent but there is opening for air flow back into the room which will always transmit some of the noise even with baffles. Always include a vent at the top of the closet so that the hot air produced by the 5 HP motor can escape or the motor can overheat and trip the thermal protector.
Is it possible to build a pressurevalve that opens when the cyclone is running to release the pressure in the cycloneroom outside instead?? Great idea to close the noise in.. Thumbs up. :-)
That is definitely possible using a flapper valve or a mechanical shutter wired to open when the fan comes on and a delay to close when it goes off. If you live in a rural area like me you could vent straight outside without the filter or take partial load outside. The issues with doing this in an atmospherically controlled shop is that now you need allot of fresh air from outside to replace the air that is lost. This would allow in excess moisture and air that would need to be cooled or heated on many days thus increasing the load on the air conditioner. You may need to increase the air conditioner size to accommodate thus increasing costs. The enclosure around the dust collector must have air flow across the motor to keep it from overheating and tripping the theral breaker. That is why one of the vents in the closet is located at the top.
David, You seem to be the only one on RUclips that has paid for your clearvue that I have come across, I hope you can give me a honest review. What I want to know is how much fine dust do you get in your canister? They (sales) had said you should be getting fine dust along with big chips in canister very little in your filters, due to design and length of cone. I have a 37" Ramco wide belt sander along with everything else. I don't need to be cleaning my filters every four to five boards.
I have cleaned the filters twice since it was installed and one time was because I let the barrel overfill. The filters are about ready for another cleaning. Here lately I have been filling the barrel every other day. That being said the drum sander has not been in use very much lately. The CV1800 I have has the 16" blower which does make it louder but with the larger blower even the 6" header is carrying high enough velocity that a one inch hose off of it works well on the random orbit sanders. Overall it has been a good investment.
@@davidpape9726 Hi David thanks for the reply. You have not stated how long have you had your Clearvue system.
Remove that insulation inside n install a 6 inch fan exiting the building from in the closet then wire it to come on when cyclone comes on then buy that egg crate bed foam topper n screw n glue it to the inside of the closet
sir are you happy with this machine when it comes to dust collection
Yes I am it does a great job. Should have installed one alot sooner. I have the unit with the 16 inch impeller.
I have the same dust collector. Not sure what your surrounding are bui
Put dust collector outside if you can and vent outside. No need for filters and much quierer.
@@lisabell4649 I considered that but my shop is temperature and humidity controlled so venting outside would greatly increase the energy use on the AC or heater along with continuously introducing a large amount of humidity to the shop.
@@lisabell4649No need for clothes either since you’d be sweating your balls off with all the conditioned air being evacuated