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To me it was worth the money because I tend to use wood with alot of highly figured grain. Not to say you have to have the helical cutter head for figure. Many have gone to the throw away knifes so they always have sharp knives handy. When I was still using straight knives I had four sets of steel knives and three sets of carbide tipped knives which worked well for most applications. The thing about striaght knives they leave a perfectly flat finish on the board much like you had hand planed it, where the helical cutter head leaves shallow divots at each place the knife cuts so I tend to hand plane afterwards to get a good smooth finish. I like a planed finish over sanding.

The power log dog I made but there will be a revision on it very soon. I am going to add a idler sprocket to the cross winch so that ther is more engagement of the chain across the sprocket on the winch. I did not make the log supports do to time constraints but they would be quite easy to make. There are videos on both.

Actually you are right on point about moving the raise lower winch to the other side. Also I would incorporate the cover algnment plate on the log stops to the log dog. Some space can be saved on the log dog by scaling it down abit. Where the log dog carriage rides on the 2" x 4" tube you probable do not need any more than 1" of contact on each side.

@@davidpape9726 Thank you so much for responding, You are truly inspirational. How are feeling about the Zeak 3500's after time?

It is funny that you would ask that, purchased some longer heavier jacks from Harbor Freight last week. Have not put them on yet. They will allow me to get rid of the boards and the mill should be more stable.

@@davidpape9726 I purchased larger jacks from Harbor Freight for mine as well. I had cut off the mounts and welded them on new jacks multiple times. The Harbor Freight ones are great. However, I wish I could find some that don’t have the crank handle but rather a hex nut instead. The handles break off eventually from one thing or another, and with the hex nut you can use a wrench or an impact power drill for speed.

Just be aware that mills with full hydraulics are faster, stronger and most likely more reliable. If you are going to make a business out of it then full hydraulics is a big plus. And you need a loader on the mill if you are going to do mobile work. The ramp and winch on the 1400 for loading logs works but it will also work you. If you can find someone close to you with a hydraulic mill and one without hydraulics. Ask if you can help them one morning and find out which one might be right for you. TC sawmill has a get together each year and show cases the Timberking mills. When I was younger before I got sick I could handle the logs with the limited hydaulics just fine but it was slow. If you are wanting to cut quality graded lumber you need to be able to position and handle the log which is what the power log turner, power log stops and power log dog will allow you to do. Check out Hobby Hardwood video on reverse quarter sawn method and a second one on cutting graded lumber. To cut either you end up turning and positioning the cant many times. I have had one solenoid go out so far because limit switches need to be installed on the log dog and log stops. If you do not have a loader to put the logs on the deck then the 1400 can be really cumbersome. I would not buy the basic setworks again since it is limited. I would look to go with a SW-350-PRO computer setworks by Lyuts-Tech. The thing about it many people start out a business with a lesser mill and then buy a mill with more bells and whistles later. I hope this helps. If you need anything just ask.

I do not sell alot of these because locally if you go to Facebook there are many advertisements for cedar wood and mantles for sale. Many of the mantles are listed quite cheaply but they are not finished or someone just slapped some poly on it. If you look at the time I have in a mantle just for milling, drying, scraping, sanding and finishing you have to get at least 450 to 500 on the low end to make it somewhat work out. That does not even include logging the tree from my woods.

You can get the split axle collars from McMaster- Carr at Mcmaster.com Make sure you get the smaller ones. The heavy duty ones will be to big in diameter.

The oil coating would have to cure before adding an oil based polyurethane. The curing time would depend on temperature and amount of oil coating applied. Best way to do this is to always apply to a test board so you can see the results. There are some oil poly blends on the market. Not all oil coatings and polyurethanes are the same in that some will turn the wood more yellow / amber than others. Osmo is made from seed oils and is one of the clearest of the oil coatings but even it will leave a slight amber / yellow tint. If you put polyurethane on top of it you will increase that tint. A straight oil finish is easier to repair in the long run.

The 2000 lb winch works fine for the three log stops that are on the mill right now. Will be adding a fourth stop in the near future so may have to put on a 3000 lb winch. You want it strong enough it can raise or lower with a heavy log up against it. The tarp motor could work so if you have one laying around I would try it. Might work better than the winch.

I have a fourth log stop on the bench, I will take some measurements and post them here. I could make a quick video if you want.

Main Plate 1/4" x 7" x 14" Outboard Guide Bar 1.5" x 1.5" x 12" A 5/8" hole in top of bar for pivot bolt Inboard Guide Bar 1" x 1.5" x 9" Guide Bar Cover Plate 1/4" x 3.75" x 7.75" Bent Channel for sprockets 3.75" wide x 7.75" x 1.75" Two 3/4" holes for bolts holding 20 tooth spockets 50H chain

@@davidpape9726 I thought your video said 10 tooth sproket. Or is the 10 tooth attached to the rouind bar attached to all the log stops.

Probable the easiest external alternator to add to a Kohler CH730, CH740 or CH750 would be a 30 amp mini which is used on a John Deere mower. You would have to add a mounting bracket on the hydraulic pump side to run off that belt and maybe even an idler pulley. Not sure how much it would pull down the motor. www.dbelectrical.com/products/new-permanent-magnet-alternator-for-john-deere-mower-2500-2500a-2500b-2653a.html?mrkgadid=&mrkgcl=1145&mrkgen=&mrkgbflag=&mrkgcat=&acctid=21700000001643279&dskeywordid=&lid=58700008546389203&dsproductgroupid=&product_id=400-58013&merchid=1552033&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=&device=c&network=x&matchtype=&locationid=9027113&creative=&targetid=&campaignid=20569684963&adgroupid=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw48-vBhBbEiwAzqrZVLwqggaSIVu6mr4GDqm0iUjBwzhLXNk2hVHb2O_xTXUjkQpZwls-xBoC2NAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

@@davidpape9726 Thank you so much!

I am going to installing a larger winch on the log turner. The smaller winches without planetary gears on the outside of the spool are what I have been using so I could cut off the outside flange of spool and slide on a sprocket with the right bore and a split axle collar. Unfortunately that style of winch is only made to 3500 pounds. I show how to to attach a sprocket on this style of winch in several of the videos including the log turner part 1 and complete it in part 2. I alsoo show it in the videos on the vertical log dogs. I am fixing to install a 5500 lb winch on the log turner and since it has planetary gears the attachment method will be a little different in that the sprocket will have to be cut into and welded to the split axle collar. I will do this this week and make a video of it. I have been using 40H chain and a 16 tooth 40 sprocket sized to the winch spool. 40B16 1-1/4" Finished Bore Sprocket from Nitro Chain Set Screw Two-Piece Shaft Collar for 1-1/4" Shaft Diameter, Black-Oxide 1215 Carbon Steel 1069N65 from Mcmaster-Carr Extra-Long Extended-Tip Set Screw, Black Oxide Alloy Steel 1/4" or 5/16" x 1/2" long depending on the axle collar used from Mcmaster-Carr

@@davidpape9726 Thank you David for your kindness in sharing all the info that you do!

There can be several issues. Since you just installed the new bearings on the support bar you can see that they are rolling. 2. Remember that the rail levers need to be locked down on the front and back of the machine before using the sliding table. When you lock those levers down it will pull down on the rail a bit. 3. If you have the rail pulled out in front of the machine put in the support bar on the end the rail or it will droop some. 4. The next would be to check if the cross supports on the bottom of the table are not dragging on the rails or the sliding table is not rubbing the fixed table. Get a flashlight and look at it from both ends and from below while moving the table back and forth. Most likely you will feel where it starts to hit and just do a close visual inspection from every angle. 5. If you have cut some long or heavy pieces that have hung off the side of the sliding table that can bend the sliding table support bars that the bearings are mounted to. I have had to bend them back straight before. I hope this helps but if you still are having issue please feel free to contact me or contact the group at groups.io/g/roblandx31

Next to the great tips you've already had. There's two bolts visible on the outside edge of the sliding table where the sawtable and sliding table slide next to each other. These bolts compress the bearing assembly to take away side to side play. These are easy to overtighten and will introduce a LOT of friction very fast

I sure wanted to buy a new TK2020 but it was not in the cards right now. Had to have a new motor on my bass boat.

You hit nail right on the head. Unfortunately I really did not think about it at the time.

I am fixing to add an idler sprocket to drive winch so that more of the chain is engaged on the sprocket.

I used push button momentary contact switches mounted in a control box and an externally mounted selinoid. The control box with the swithes can be seen near the end of the video. I actually mounted the box in a previous video. The videos have a parts list at the top in the description. Thanks

I used push button momentary contact switches mounted in a water proof control box along with an externally mounted selinoid. The control box was mounted in a previous video. There is a parts list in the description at the top of the page. You can see the control box near the end of the video. Thanks

I have not found any more winches with carbon steel spools so I used winches with cast spools on the rest of my modifications. Go to Vertical Log Stops Part 2 of 2 ruclips.net/video/u0HabF9XGTE/видео.html or Log Turner Final Modification Part 1 ruclips.net/video/O5aJYSFHp7g/видео.html for the clamp-on method which works for the small winches with the outside plate. I am going to adapt a sprocket to a 4500# winch but the outside of the spool cannot be removed so the sprocket will have to be split.

@@davidpape9726 Gotcha! Thanks man

Go to Vertical Log Stops Part 2 of 2 ruclips.net/video/u0HabF9XGTE/видео.html or Log Turner Final Modification Part 1 ruclips.net/video/O5aJYSFHp7g/видео.html this method works for the small winches with the outside plate. I am going to adapt a sprocket to a 4500# winch but the outside of the spool cannot be removed so the sprocket will have to be split.

No I have not. I have thought about the those and the motor gear boxes for RV slideouts. While they would great for carriage mobility up/down or through the log I do not think they would give the required torque for a log turner or log dog. But I could be wrong. Proper gearing can do amazing things. The stabilizer jack motors may show promise.

@@davidpape9726 I like the RV slide idea. I have heard electric power steering motors also. I have an all manual mill 3 phase mill so I am strongly considering a 12V subsystem to drive some log stops and a turner. You set up is awesome. Any thoughts on publishing plans?

@@davidpape9726 One other thought... did the motors for the log turner end up being powerful enough or did you find yourself upgrading to something else? If so, what did you go to?

I have thought about checking the adjustments on the pressure rollers and bar. It is something that I really need to do but just have not got around to it and unfortunately will probable not do any time soon. To many other things on the to do list ahead of it. Most of the time I do not have snipe on my machine other than the occassional soft wood board like eastern red cedar and it is no more than several thousands that will come out with a hand plane after a couple of passes.

The Festool pads are very fine with a more tightly woven than the white Scotch-Brite 07445 so they plug up after one use if you let them dry out. If you are using them with the Osmo finish I always discard them after use in a oily rag container. Not sure if they would self combust but I do not take any chances. I have pulled a pad out of the oily rag container and reuse it if it was still wet. The Scotch-Brite pads are cheaper and work well.

You are completely right, I have been meaning to order some for the log stops and log dog.

Most definitely, they are realatively simple and just the front half of the log dog. Timberking design using the flat plate over the dog bar and a channel to hold the two sprockets is better than the flat bar welded together than I did on my log dog. You certianly do not need to build them as big as the ones I got. A 1" x 1 1/2" or 2" riser bar would be big enough.

I was satified with the power log turner but unfortuntely I had to change the design since it interfered with the drive rod for the vertical log stops. The drive rod ran right through the area where the large sprocket was located. I am in the process of installing a new design for the log turner. I got side tracked building steps on my bass boat trailer to get up on the front deck for launching and loading. The power log clamped has worked well and is especially helpful in pulling out and turning cants. The sprocket on the cross chain between the rails could use a little more engagement so that pushing a log over is easier. I plan on lowering the chain attachment on the oerator side and install an idlet sprocket under the log dog so that the chanin engages ninety degrees of the sprocket to prevent slippage. I absolutely love the vertical power log stops although I should have saved some money and just built them for in essence they are just half of the log dogs.

I used a 2000# winch with a sprocket attached to it. There is a video for the log dog. ruclips.net/video/qlceIex2m-M/видео.html

The log stops had a pretty good price increase this year to around $600 each. You could easily build them out of the log stops from the 1400. You could weld two of the bars together from the old stops to get the length needed for two stops. It took me about nine months to get the three stops but that was just after covid.

Any way you can send me measure on those log stops ..be glad pay your for your time. ..or some close up picture would be nice..

The spools that have the thicker sides tend to be cast. I have not found any more winches with steel spools. You can buy and attach a sprocket sized to the spool arbor diameter using a split axle collar with extended set screws. I show where I did that on the log stop winch.

Sorry, I have a long list of projects to do after being gone from home most of the time working for the last 25 years.