@@CountryLivingExperience From one of the other big reviewers online. Think it was Rob Prowse. Something about the Master wanting to be fully populated first though. The software is better able to balance the load that way supposedly.
Wow, I've been watching a lot of videos on solar, and that is the best most informative one where I think I can actually do the wiring just from watching the video.
I had to update all my (comm connected) batteries to get the charge parameters from PV to work correctly. When I only did host battery it did communicate but only showed part of my battery bank that was connected for battery comms. So PV charge was low until updates completed on my lifepower4 batteries. Good work!
Thank you. I saw that on your video. I will probably do an follow up video based on my firmware update for the master battery. We will see what happens.
For the hole where the battery cables come in try GB Flex Tubing 3/8" Split Flex Tubing. I got it at Lowe's. I used it for the same application on my EG4 18K PV battery in. It works great. If I knew I could post a picture I would.
Thanks for sharing! I'm with you on those tiny screws! Horrible little things! I was hoping they would have hinged the door with latches like the 18kPV.
Thank you for your dedication , so helpful. There is one work around for the battery recognition issue . If you set your actual battery to LUX , this will allow you to change to lithium battery in the EG4 6000XP, dip switch o seems to work for this even though the manual says dip 16 . Ok then have a charming wonderful day .
9:55 Ferruls are YOUR FRIEND !! Ferrules allow all of the wire strands to be inserted into a connector without any strands being displaced. Without them, a missing or separate strands burn up from over current, oxidation, many reasons! Use them. In Europe their homes are hundreds of years old. That's our goal also. Use ferrules.
I would go with a larger breaker in the sub panel than 40 amps since the 6000xp supports 50 amp pass through - as long as your wires (AC in and out) are spec'd to handle the 50 amps.
Just picked up my xp and a single 14 kw wall mount battery 16 bifocal panels.Hope to install this spring as soon as it warms up.Love your channel, looking forward to your next one .
21:45 looking forward to the clarification on defining what to use as priority - solar, battery, utility. Thanks. I suppose as long as it optimizes for most efficient for the load at the moment that would be ok.
And let me ask this (I think I know the answer though), if the priority is set to solar, battery, utility... if the grid goes down, does it still use the solar and battery. If I understand correctly, that is what is considered a hybrid system, and the info I've seen on these specifically say they are not hybrid. Any clarification would be great.
Thanks for the video, I have the EG4-LL v1 batteries also, didn't realize I will have to update firmware. I want to get a couple of these 6000XP's, the fun part will be getting the ~150lb Growatt off the wall.
I ordered two of them to replace my Growatt 5000 es system. I am going to leave the growatts in place as an emergency backup to my offgrid house and use the new EG4 inverters as my main system.
You're welcome. AC (grid power in) in works on all off-grid inverters. It is only when you get into selling back to the grid that you need a hybrid or grid-tie inverter.
Looks good I got one last week and still haven't changed over .. Its hard to leave outback and midnight classics but I will try it... Keep it up brother
I just bought the 2 6000xp to replace my 6500ex. I have been watching a few videos on install. Wills channel shows only 1 comms cable between the inverters not the 2 you used. I wanted to check to be sure. I have the Lifepower 4 with original firmware so I may have to upgrade the newest release for the 6000xp. I got some great info from your channel thank you for sharing.
Glad I could help. I have had the Sig Solar guys confirm that you need both cables connected. I have the V1 LL batteries and had to update all of them so I am sure you will have to update your Lifepowers.
Nice video. Please update us on the reliability of these in parallel as you run your house over time. I had a twin 6500ex system and had constant stability issues. I switched to an 18Kpv and it just works. However, two of these 6000XPs is more affordable and desirable if selling back is not desired…IF they are reliable. Looking forward to updates as you use them for your daily loads.
So how do these play with the grid, being off grid inverters? Net metering has become a joke in most areas now (or will be soon if not, thanks to all the lobbying). Can you actually use these and still be tied to the grid? If so, how does that work?
@@ssoffshore5111 They take AC in from the grid to charge the batteries. They can also pass-through power to your house loads if you have your system set up like that. You cannot sell back to the grid with them. I use my solar like a generator. I keep the grid for extended cloudy periods (because I do not have enough panels or batteries yet) and just switch over manually when I want to use either solar or the grid.
Great video very informative. I’m new to the solar world and feel confident I can set the system up and well. I do have a question. I heard you say each MPPT. Can be set up with a separate string. Does each string require a minimum 140 V and maximum 480 V? Sorry if that’s a silly question as I said, I am just learning DYI solar systems. Thank you for this video and all of your videos.
Hey.thanks for the great video. Do you have a video with detailed instillation of the AC power from the meter to the inverter. With the AC and DC disconnects. The EG4 wiring schematic is not the best.
You're welcome. I do not have a full detail of it. I did show some of the initial ac connections on the video of my first inverters. You can find those videos here......ruclips.net/video/I2rbxKtx5cs/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/N-d3lCVUeyA/видео.html
Great video! Next week I'll be installing 2 of these in connection with my 2 powerpro batteries -this video will be super helpful. One question: How do you deal with live PV wire if you needed to disconnect PV from the 6000's charge controller? It seems like it would be safer (& more convenient) to have your PV disconnects before your wire goes into the charge controller
Glad it was helpful. I still have another pv disconnect switch. If I disconnect the pv wire from the inverter, I just turn off the switch. It would be safer, you are correct.
Good video. Seems complex however since you cannot easily set inverter for LFP batteries at first startup...and had to setup initially to lead acid?? Perhaps EG4 rushed this to market without having default set to EG4 LFP batteries? Perhaps your next video will explain this? For me, the relatively lower idle consumption of this inverter is a winning feature. The 6000EX-48HV idle consumption was just too high for those of us living off grid in the far north. Having all the breakers in the box is a real savings for sure.
Thank you. It isn't complex at all. If you have newer batteries, there is no extra step. All that needs to be done is adding the new parameter to the old battery via a firmware update. The breakers are great as well as that low idle consumption for sure.
Thanks. Glad it helped. I covered wiring the sub panel in a few other older videos. Try this one....ruclips.net/video/-5w6b_2LxtQ/видео.html and this one.....ruclips.net/video/I2rbxKtx5cs/видео.html
Dang this EG4 6000XP is sweet! Do you know if there will be any big updates coming in the next 18 months? I’m not quite ready for it at our off grid acreage but I’m excited to start working with modern gear. My current system is very much a cludged together monster. This tech has gotten so much better in the past five years. It’s a great time to be working with solar.
What I would like to find is a system with 240V @ 20A output (aka 4.8KW). Standard electrical rules advise for a usage of only 80% of capacity, so the 6000 would be great for this. If you wanted to tie multiple AC outputs together, to get (for example) 240V @ 30A or 40A,, is that possible with this inverter?
Hey boss. These are just the calculations I needed. Thanks for the explanation! I’m building a larger electrical mobile unit out of an enclosed trailer I’ve converted to be powered by the 6000xp with 10.2kwh server no alternator charge tied. My biggest question is grounding the system in a mobile application with no grid tie. Is grounding to the frame fine because of wood blocks and rubber tires. Or do I need to tie the ground to a rod at every location. I’m worried times I’ll be around pavement only. Thanks again boss!!
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful. Honestly I am not well versed on mobile systems. The best channel for that is Explorist Life...www.youtube.com/@EXPLORISTlife. Nate does a great job explaining van systems.
This was a good start. I will also have 2 EG4 6000XPs and some batteries. The L1 and L2 LOAD outputs on the 6000XPs can be either 120V or 240V. Which did you use? When the 6000XPs do not have enough PV or battery power to function, it can be setup to switch to "Bypass" mode which I plan to use. When in Bypass mode, each inverter can output 50A, so (2) inverters can output up to 100A. But for this to work, you have to route power from your main breaker panel to the L1 and L2 GRID inputs. 50A and 240V to each 6000XP inverter. Can you show this setup including the breakers and wiring in the main breaker panel using an interlock kit? Also, tech support tells me that "the inverter output is 120/240 so it can power 120v loads but both lines do need to be wired into a 240v panel. There is no line balancing so you will only get 3kw per line per inverter." What does this mean in terms of wiring?
Mine are both wired for 240v split phase. I do not have AC in because I run my system as an off-grid system. I get 6000 per inverter total with the way they are wired.
7:44 Mounting Adapter! Between wall and the unit. Remember the Pirates Code !! Guidelines meant to provide advice, recommendations, or instructions, and are not expected to be hard and fast rules. You're in America now ! (I was going to say Texas, but that's a whole other country).
What’s your recommendation on an off grid solar system for new home. As far as battery power storage and inverters. How many and price. Brand recommendations?
It all depends. There is a ton of information I would need to even begin to make a recommendation. Please email me at the channel email address and I would be happy to help.
@@CountryLivingExperience please excuse my ignorance, I thought the main panel was the 1st with the incoming power then sub panels were after? Is main just where the ground rod is connected directly?
@@CountryLivingExperience great thank you. I'm curious because I have very similar system but use the 1st breaker load center as the main with the ground neutral bonded and separated them in the sub panel (which is the old main panel in the house with all the breakers)
Great video! with 2 batteries the xp unit and the solar panels it would be closer to $5G not $3500, still an excellent price for a system that's expandable. I'm starting with 1 xp and 2 batt.
Batteries are always the most expensive part of a system. What do you need to know? Watts output to my house? For the inverters? The inverters are 6000w each to 12000w if needed.
Well done video as always. Will you be connecting grid input to pull from if needed? My question is for users that will need to connect up to the grid, I'm looking for the best way to run the grid input into some type of transfer/bypass switch so you could bypass the unit if needed and still power the house sub-panel.
Yet, but.....Depends on the tools and how many are running at once. Depends on many factors. They have plenty of power for all kinds of jobs and tools.
I just purchased a complete system, 2 6000xps, 20 400 watt panels, and 4 li LL batteries. I am in the process of the setup and your video was super helpful. Thanks for all of your work! I do have on question, does the battery input cables go to both AIOs? I have two sets of battery cables in my packet. Do you connect both + cables to the battery buss bar or do you come out of buss bar with one cable and then split into two cables? Thanks again.
Awesome, you're welcome. I am not sure what kit you bought so I don't know exactly what they gave you. You do need battery cables for each inverter and those in turn must be connected to the battery buss bars. I don't know f you have the battery rack with integrated buss bars or other external buss bars or both (like me).
@CountryLivingExperience hi and thanks for answering. I do have a 6 slot battery rack with buss bar. I was going to attach both positive cables (2 red cables) to the top slot on + buss bar and the two negative leads to the top slot on negative buss bar. Thanks again
Nice update on your 6000xp . So what do you do with the eg4 6500’s ? Just purchase my eg4-6500 a year ago can afford to buy new ones😅. At least there are improving on the newer inverters lower power consumption, Wi-Fi app that’s informative and parallel connections. So keep up the good videos coming and have a wonderful holiday for you and yours.
@@CountryLivingExperience I bought an EG4 kit back in August. I work slow (71, did a ground mount) and just got finished last week. The 6,500's are working fine but two are needed for 240v. If I lose one I will not be able to power my submersible well pump and my hybrid water heater. Should have waited. Might just buy a 6000XP to have on hand.
The xp6000 is rated for 8000 watts of solar, but I read somewhere that you should size the array assuming that the panels could produce 125% of their rated capacity in cold weather so one should limit the array because of that. On the other hand I've heard it's a good idea to supply more solar power because there's only a small period of time during the day when you can reach peak output. What's your opinion on this?
Both are correct. It is a delicate balance of many things. It is about the voltage coming into the inverter however and not the watts of the array. There are also voltage losses in the lines and connections, as well as the panel efficiency losses.
How do these compare to the Victron MultiPlus-II 2X 120v. 3000VA? I want to install it in a 50Amp RV for Boondocking. I have 4 LiTime 24v 200AH running in parallel. I will get 2 more in the future. This system looks a lot cleaner and easy to install.
The biggest difference is they are split phase and an all-in-one unit. You really can't compare them to the victron as they are two different types of systems. These 6000xp's are 48v however. You will need to configure for that.
You talk about a generator interlock kit in your main breaker. How would I add that? Does the 6000XP work better with a interlock kit vs a transfer switch?
The interlock is a physical piece that you add to the metal inner cover of your main panel. It costs about $40. A transfer switch can be either manual or automatic. An auto transfer switch will cost you about $1k installed. Either will work well.
I'd probably get these if they offered a trade up program. Otherwise, I have to find someone to buy my 6500s when I am ready to switch. I still might consider and 18kPV though because it has 200A pass through so I could comfortably put everything on solar but with these the pass through is like 50A per inverter from what I read. I feel like these grid supported inverters should offer full pass through since the 18kPV shows its possible.
Thank you. I like to have a little redundancy with multiple smaller units. If one goes bad, I can still run most critical systems off of 1 unit. Or if I want to expand, I can add 1 more unit for much less than an 18k.
I bought the 6500-ex in June, and they’re obsolete. Yes, they work but out of production. You CANNOT buy 2 more to upgrade an installed system unless you want used, and expansion was part of my plan.
Are you still happy with the 6000XP over the 6500Ex for offgrid use? I got the quote to upgrade and need to decide. I'm not having issues except light flickering on some lights but like the idea of 120/240 on each inverter in case one of them goes down I can still power 240 loads.
Yes, it is working perfectly well. I had a few issues with my 6500's until I got the correct firmware update. When I switched them for the 600's they were working perfect as well.
I noticed you have PV connected in reverse to the inverters based on the PV wire colors (red + black -). Am I correct? The inverter was labeled 1+ 1 - and 2+ 2 - from left to right but the PV wires look like they are connected black (-) red (+) from left to right?
You mention it requiring two batteries. Is this because of the two units? Seems strange, not sure how that is required. It'd certainly be nice to have 2+ batteries just for the type of load a 12k system would typically have, but as a requirement to function?
Going to be ordering a couple of those panels after the first. They have a curious statement about the PV rating that says 8kw but there's a 10kw maximum. No idea what they mean by that and find nothing in the specs about it. Only the minimum and maximum voltages and a warning to check panels for cold temp output. Guess they can handle the watt fairies flying by and dumping a little dust on your panels? hahaha
I hope someone clarifies it too. The mppts can handle 4000w each so 8000w total and I guess the 10000w max pv input is to allow for over paneling for cloudy/winter days. That way the extra panels can help to make it to the 8000w max input. I guess in the summer at 10000w at max power it will clip it down to 8000w
Could be yeah. Curious they throw out numbers like that and leave you to guess what it's for. But if I get 8kw total I'm sitting phat. My usage isn't very heavy @ about 20kwh/day. Storage is big on my list of things to do. Think 100kwh would be just peachy. Find one of these new Ford Lightening's that somebody crashed into a tree, drag it around back and plug it in. Good to go. hahaha
I just bought a EG4 600XP and had my electrician wire it to my Generac Transfer switch with a lite load. My electrician was not comfortable hooking the inverter to the batteries so I am wondering if there is an online service that I could pay to help me do that? There are not many solar consultants out on the Oregon coast where I live.
So will this not operate on one battery? I'd like to use this for just our washroom alone due to it's 2-phase capability, but I didn't think I'd need more than one battery for just the washer/dryer and a light or two, a couple times a week. Appreciate your thorough coverage brother.👍
Are the battery cables from each inverter going all the way back to the battery cabinet or to bus bars with one beefy cable to the cabinet? I didn't see.
So you leaving your main inverter as ground neutral bonded/controlled did you unbind in the breaker box? Im new and trying to get visual info on how it looks. Thanks
As an off-grid system, I did not change anything internally on the inverters. My sub-panel has grounds and neutrals separate. My main panel has grounds and neutrals bonded.
Just got my upgrade from SigSolar with their trade in offer. But they won't be shipping till May due to such high demand so I get a few months to plan the installation :) , Bye bye 6500-EX's and hello 6000XP's !
@@CountryLivingExperience Still working perfectly without a hitch and that is with the original firmware, I was about to upgrade the firmware but I've been lazy then I got the inverter upgrade offer from SS so I guess now I'm not going to bother anymore LOL
@@CountryLivingExperienceI have two I got in August in my solar kit but only got functional last week(I work slow). They power my home just fine, just lots of light flickering and one UPS was clicking so much I had to unplug it. I will be getting the replacement 6000XPs. I got a digital torque screwdriver, PV breakers need more torque then you might think. Also I doubt you are getting the pv input wires tight enough with that tiny screwdriver.
Hello, I’ve got a question… maybe unrelated to this video. I’m wanting to set up a 6000xp, 1-3 power pros, and a EG4 chargeverter GC with a military surplus 5k+ generator (I’ll also get a propane inverter generator). From what I understand I need a bus bar for the military 5k generator. How would I set up the 6000xp, 1-3 power pros, bus bar, eg4 chargeverter gc, and the military generator? Also what bus bar should I use or should I use one of those blue 1000 amp “vector distributors”(I think)? Please help clearly confused Thanks ahead of time
I cannot really explain the entire assembly process to you here. That is why I make these videos. I also do not have a Chargeverter GC so I cannot speak to that. I have an older Chargeverter and it is just connected to my buss bars for simple manual charging is the sun is not available.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks for the info. I thought there might be when I saw all those network ports on the unit. If you can hardwire into your network, it just seems like a more reliable and faster connection than WiFi.
Great video. I have 1 question. On the second Inverter, is setting 21 set to P1 also, or P2? If both inverters are set to P1, does that not mean single phase on both and I would not get 240?
As far as I am aware, they are paralleled already when set to the 1PH type. Then all inverters need to be set to P1 phase. Mine work fine like this and power my 240v loads.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks for the quick reply. We got two of the 6000xp's, one already running, 2nd to be hooked up. We are thinking about an additional 30KWH battery rack. That should give us enough power to go for a couple of rainy days. I wonder what the P2 setting is for.
Glad you are expanding your system. Should be great for a few rainy days for sure. Check out Sig Solar's video on commissioning the 6000xp's. Kelly did a great job explaining the setup about 2/3 of the way through the video. ruclips.net/video/O8eVxRVwlnw/видео.htmlsi=2c4fKdNGKP8PhPn0
I thought I mentioned that. I don't have the correct firmware on my EG4-ll battery so the comms will not work. The inverters will not read any LiFePo4 battery without comms. So you can temporarily set it to Lead Acid and enter in the correct Ah of your entire battery bank and the inverter will charge based on those parameters.
Not meaning to be picking but just for some clarification, it looks like you have the negative from your PV array going in to the positive terminal on the mppt and the positive going in to the negative?
How much battery storage do you have and approximately the what do you run off your system? I just ordered an off grid kit with the same inverters. I know I’ll need at least 2 more batteries. Kit came with 4 life pros
I have +/-46kw of storage. 10 EG4-LL 48v batteries. I run all modern appliances. I have 3 mini-splits. I do have a propane stove however. Well pump is on a separate system.
Do you feel like you have enough to comfortably not worry about power? I’m going to have to do the mini splits as well and they are my biggest concern of draw.
@@Sandwichdestroyer3456 Not yet. I am slowly building my system as money allows. I added more panels and a few more batteries this past year. I will continue to do that. I would say I have about 75% of what I would need to "not worry". My mini-splits can draw about 1kw at the hottest part of the day but do an amazing job compared to a window unit or a central forced air system. They are the most efficient way to cool a home.
Question…Do you need to have the batteries into each inverter? What would I use to do that. I am just getting started really. I do have one bank of 4 Lipo EG4 batteries. Thanks!
I saw someone use a 50 amp breaker ILO the 40 to power subpanel. Think he used #6 wire. What's your thoughts on that since you've had your setup for a while? Manual says 8 gauge which is good for 40 amps.
Hi thanks again for the great content, what are your thoughts on grounding for off grid. I don’t want to create a ground loop in my system I currently have my main panel grounded from a rod and feeding the inverters and sub panel has separate ground and neutral bars. Setting 26 allows to enable or disable neutral ground bond with out an ac source should it be enabled or disabled? Thanks in advanced
I am certainly no electrician so my advice should be cross referenced with one. You should have one grounding electrode on the house. All sub-panels should have grounds and neutrals separate. Only ground neutral bond should be in the main panel. There should be equipment grounding conductors that run from each piece of equipment to a ground bar in the sub-panel and then ultimately back to the main panel. I believe the g-n internal bond comes disconnected. I ran mine strait out of the box as configured by the manufacturer. You will have to check with Sig Solar for a more indepth answer on this as my system architecture may be different from yours. Braden from EG4 did a video on this topic on the EG4 RUclips channel if you want to go check that out.
Thanks for the prompt reply. I spoke with signature solar earlier and explained my system layout to them. I have two 6000 xps in parallel feeding a main panel off grid grounded by an earth rod and have separated the ground and neutrals for the main and my sub panel. Setting #26 comes enabled as default and signature solar said this was fine the way I have it configured but they recommended joining my ground and neutral bars at the main panel and to then disable setting #26. I hope this helps someone else wondering the same. I love your content thanks for all the great info.
I have a newbie question for you about setting up the 6000XP. I'm pretty sure I'd like to set it up in my home, which is grid connected, and I have no need to send electricity back to the grid since the compensation for net metering is so low for where we live. How exactly does this unit physically setup in a way in which it is always connected to the grid, along with battery and solar? In my case, I have one 40 amp breaker that is unused in my sub-panel (there was an old wine cooler that used it and I took that unit out), but what's coming from my 40 amp is just the hot, neutral, ground. Where exactly does the L1 and L2 connect to in this scenario? And what about the difference between the load and grid breakers on this unit? I'm planning on hiring an electrician, but I'm just curious.
Since I can't physically see your home, I can only give some basic thoughts. Will Prowse set his up with the AC-IN connected. For me personally, I didn't choose to do connect the AC-IN and have not set up a system like that. Make sure your electrician knows DC power. Many do not.
How are these 6000xp units working out so far? Are you getting any light flickering at all or is it steady (assuming you're using LEDs). I want to get these so bad, but it's a large chunk of change to drop on them! Trying to sell my 2 TP6048 units first!
Doesn't this inverter output 50 amps? If so, why is the AC output breaker 40amps? With 6awg, a 50amp CB would be more to spec, or am I missing something? Thanks for any info
EG4 6000xp Split Phase Inverter: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=countrylivingexperience
Don't know if you came across this yet but if you are going to use two mppt's you want to do it on the master if you are going to have an imbalance.
@@davefroman4700 I have not come across that. How have you come across or tested this info?
@@CountryLivingExperience From one of the other big reviewers online. Think it was Rob Prowse. Something about the Master wanting to be fully populated first though. The software is better able to balance the load that way supposedly.
@@davefroman4700 Interesting. I had not seen his video. I haven't had any issues but I will look into it. Thanks.
@@CountryLivingExperience It makes sense to me because the master is managing the load.
Wow, I've been watching a lot of videos on solar, and that is the best most informative one where I think I can actually do the wiring just from watching the video.
Glad it was helpful
You covered a lot of ground on this video. Good work on this one. These are fantastic inverters.
Thanks Gavin. They are running really well right now.
I had to update all my (comm connected) batteries to get the charge parameters from PV to work correctly. When I only did host battery it did communicate but only showed part of my battery bank that was connected for battery comms. So PV charge was low until updates completed on my lifepower4 batteries. Good work!
Thank you.
I saw that on your video. I will probably do an follow up video based on my firmware update for the master battery. We will see what happens.
@@CountryLivingExperience sounds good 👍
For the hole where the battery cables come in try GB Flex Tubing 3/8" Split Flex Tubing. I got it at Lowe's. I used it for the same application on my EG4 18K PV battery in. It works great. If I knew I could post a picture I would.
Thanks. I appreciate the suggestion.
Thanks for sharing! I'm with you on those tiny screws! Horrible little things! I was hoping they would have hinged the door with latches like the 18kPV.
You're welcome.
A hinged door would be ideal.
Maybe I'll add hinges to my 6000xp.
Thank you for your dedication , so helpful. There is one work around for the battery recognition issue . If you set your actual battery to LUX , this will allow you to change to lithium battery in the EG4 6000XP, dip switch o seems to work for this even though the manual says dip 16 . Ok then have a charming wonderful day .
You're welcome.
I'll try that work around. Thanks and have a great day.
9:55 Ferruls are YOUR FRIEND !!
Ferrules allow all of the wire strands to be inserted into a connector without any strands being displaced. Without them,
a missing or separate strands burn up from over current, oxidation, many reasons! Use them. In Europe their homes are hundreds of years old. That's our goal also.
Use ferrules.
Very nice! We just got our system up and running. It has been a bit cloudy but everything is looking positive so far.
I bought 1 from current connected. In stock and arrives tomorrow, Sunday to Thursday, not bad
Not bad
I would go with a larger breaker in the sub panel than 40 amps since the 6000xp supports 50 amp pass through - as long as your wires (AC in and out) are spec'd to handle the 50 amps.
Great demonstration. Thanks for sharing.
Just picked up my xp and a single 14 kw wall mount battery 16 bifocal panels.Hope to install this spring as soon as it warms up.Love your channel, looking forward to your next one .
Awesome. Glad we can help.
21:45 looking forward to the clarification on defining what to use as priority - solar, battery, utility. Thanks. I suppose as long as it optimizes for most efficient for the load at the moment that would be ok.
And let me ask this (I think I know the answer though), if the priority is set to solar, battery, utility... if the grid goes down, does it still use the solar and battery. If I understand correctly, that is what is considered a hybrid system, and the info I've seen on these specifically say they are not hybrid. Any clarification would be great.
19:10 That is where ferrules go !
I use DE-OX here also.
In twenty years they'll be as shiny as new.
Resistance burns are PREVENTABLE.
Thanks for the video, I have the EG4-LL v1 batteries also, didn't realize I will have to update firmware. I want to get a couple of these 6000XP's, the fun part will be getting the ~150lb Growatt off the wall.
You're welcome. Good luck with that heavy Growatt.
Always keep your last MC4 Connector at the Panels Disconnected while messing with wiring at MPPT Charger! Then you don't need to worry!
Awesome. Thank you. I'm installing mine this week. It's interesting that the inverter communication doesn't show the battery state of charge.
Cool.
They do show battery voltage and state of charge.
I ordered two of them to replace my Growatt 5000 es system. I am going to leave the growatts in place as an emergency backup to my offgrid house and use the new EG4 inverters as my main system.
Awesome! Always good to have redundant systems and backups.
thank you for the great video! isn't this inverter off-grid only, so it's interesting to see the grid option showing up on the screen.
You're welcome.
AC (grid power in) in works on all off-grid inverters. It is only when you get into selling back to the grid that you need a hybrid or grid-tie inverter.
I ordered one of these for Black Friday along with 2 EG4 LLs batteries. Still waiting for them to arrive.
Awesome!
Looks good I got one last week and still haven't changed over .. Its hard to leave outback and midnight classics but I will try it... Keep it up brother
Thank you. Let us know how your install goes.
I just bought the 2 6000xp to replace my 6500ex. I have been watching a few videos on install. Wills channel shows only 1 comms cable between the inverters not the 2 you used. I wanted to check to be sure. I have the Lifepower 4 with original firmware so I may have to upgrade the newest release for the 6000xp. I got some great info from your channel thank you for sharing.
Glad I could help.
I have had the Sig Solar guys confirm that you need both cables connected.
I have the V1 LL batteries and had to update all of them so I am sure you will have to update your Lifepowers.
Nice video. Please update us on the reliability of these in parallel as you run your house over time. I had a twin 6500ex system and had constant stability issues. I switched to an 18Kpv and it just works. However, two of these 6000XPs is more affordable and desirable if selling back is not desired…IF they are reliable. Looking forward to updates as you use them for your daily loads.
Thanks. I will keep y'all updated.
So how do these play with the grid, being off grid inverters? Net metering has become a joke in most areas now (or will be soon if not, thanks to all the lobbying). Can you actually use these and still be tied to the grid? If so, how does that work?
@@ssoffshore5111 They take AC in from the grid to charge the batteries. They can also pass-through power to your house loads if you have your system set up like that. You cannot sell back to the grid with them. I use my solar like a generator. I keep the grid for extended cloudy periods (because I do not have enough panels or batteries yet) and just switch over manually when I want to use either solar or the grid.
Thanks for a clear and concise video. I gotta build my power shed before I install mine but it's too cold to pour concrete.
Thanks Bob
Great video very informative. I’m new to the solar world and feel confident I can set the system up and well. I do have a question. I heard you say each MPPT. Can be set up with a separate string. Does each string require a minimum 140 V and maximum 480 V? Sorry if that’s a silly question as I said, I am just learning DYI solar systems. Thank you for this video and all of your videos.
Glad it was helpful.
Yes correct, each string min 140 max 480.
Nice video. I have a pair arriving Friday along with 4 X Ruixu batteries. Ordered from Current Connected on Monday!
Thank you. Glad you will get yours soon.
I love your video !! Wonderful tips and work you've put into this !
Thank You !!
9:37 Manufacturers hole placements and sizes are just guidelines ! Make it so it's EASY
for you or your old you, or your young kids to maintain.
Hey.thanks for the great video. Do you have a video with detailed instillation of the AC power from the meter to the inverter. With the AC and DC disconnects. The EG4 wiring schematic is not the best.
You're welcome.
I do not have a full detail of it. I did show some of the initial ac connections on the video of my first inverters. You can find those videos here......ruclips.net/video/I2rbxKtx5cs/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/N-d3lCVUeyA/видео.html
Awesome video, thank you very much for the great detail and information!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Next week I'll be installing 2 of these in connection with my 2 powerpro batteries -this video will be super helpful. One question: How do you deal with live PV wire if you needed to disconnect PV from the 6000's charge controller? It seems like it would be safer (& more convenient) to have your PV disconnects before your wire goes into the charge controller
Glad it was helpful.
I still have another pv disconnect switch. If I disconnect the pv wire from the inverter, I just turn off the switch. It would be safer, you are correct.
Good video.
Seems complex however since you cannot easily set inverter for LFP batteries at first startup...and had to setup initially to lead acid?? Perhaps EG4 rushed this to market without having default set to EG4 LFP batteries? Perhaps your next video will explain this?
For me, the relatively lower idle consumption of this inverter is a winning feature. The 6000EX-48HV idle consumption was just too high for those of us living off grid in the far north.
Having all the breakers in the box is a real savings for sure.
Thank you.
It isn't complex at all. If you have newer batteries, there is no extra step. All that needs to be done is adding the new parameter to the old battery via a firmware update.
The breakers are great as well as that low idle consumption for sure.
Great video. I'm watching and dreaming while I patiently wait for mine to ship and replace the 6000EXs.
Thank you.
Did you have an issue with your 6500ex's?
@@CountryLivingExperience I've had quite a few issues since adding the 3rd. It's been a bit disappointing, but I'm hopeful for the upgrade :)
I have a brand new eg4 6500 and before I hook it up would you suggest that I trade it back in for the 6000 XP
@@stifflerjj4 I'll let Eric give his opinion on the 6500s. I had the old 6000EXs. I'm glad I made the trade. :)
great video!! covered just what i was looking for but one thing from your sub panel to your main panel how did you wire that up?
Thanks. Glad it helped. I covered wiring the sub panel in a few other older videos. Try this one....ruclips.net/video/-5w6b_2LxtQ/видео.html and this one.....ruclips.net/video/I2rbxKtx5cs/видео.html
Dang this EG4 6000XP is sweet! Do you know if there will be any big updates coming in the next 18 months? I’m not quite ready for it at our off grid acreage but I’m excited to start working with modern gear. My current system is very much a cludged together monster. This tech has gotten so much better in the past five years. It’s a great time to be working with solar.
It is really nice for sure.
They may be coming out with a smaller hybrid like the 18k which will be the 12k.
Can you make a list of solar kits including panels that I need for the 2 Inverters
Every project is unique. I have no idea what you need for your project so I cannot really suggest anything.
What I would like to find is a system with 240V @ 20A output (aka 4.8KW). Standard electrical rules advise for a usage of only 80% of capacity, so the 6000 would be great for this.
If you wanted to tie multiple AC outputs together, to get (for example) 240V @ 30A or 40A,, is that possible with this inverter?
Where do we terminate surge protection for 2 inverters (off grid, standby genset, 4 dc strings from ground mnt array)??
Hey boss. These are just the calculations I needed. Thanks for the explanation! I’m building a larger electrical mobile unit out of an enclosed trailer I’ve converted to be powered by the 6000xp with 10.2kwh server no alternator charge tied. My biggest question is grounding the system in a mobile application with no grid tie. Is grounding to the frame fine because of wood blocks and rubber tires. Or do I need to tie the ground to a rod at every location. I’m worried times I’ll be around pavement only. Thanks again boss!!
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Honestly I am not well versed on mobile systems. The best channel for that is Explorist Life...www.youtube.com/@EXPLORISTlife. Nate does a great job explaining van systems.
@@CountryLivingExperience Yes sir. Thanks
This was a good start. I will also have 2 EG4 6000XPs and some batteries. The L1 and L2 LOAD outputs on the 6000XPs can be either 120V or 240V. Which did you use? When the 6000XPs do not have enough PV or battery power to function, it can be setup to switch to "Bypass" mode which I plan to use. When in Bypass mode, each inverter can output 50A, so (2) inverters can output up to 100A. But for this to work, you have to route power from your main breaker panel to the L1 and L2 GRID inputs. 50A and 240V to each 6000XP inverter. Can you show this setup including the breakers and wiring in the main breaker panel using an interlock kit? Also, tech support tells me that "the inverter output is 120/240 so it can power 120v loads but both lines do need to be wired into a 240v panel. There is no line balancing so you will only get 3kw per line per inverter." What does this mean in terms of wiring?
Mine are both wired for 240v split phase. I do not have AC in because I run my system as an off-grid system. I get 6000 per inverter total with the way they are wired.
Wooden chopsticks make great pointers when dealing with electricity.
7:44 Mounting Adapter!
Between wall and the unit.
Remember the Pirates Code !!
Guidelines meant to provide advice, recommendations, or instructions, and are not expected to be hard and fast rules.
You're in America now !
(I was going to say Texas, but that's a whole other country).
What’s your recommendation on an off grid solar system for new home. As far as battery power storage and inverters. How many and price. Brand recommendations?
It all depends. There is a ton of information I would need to even begin to make a recommendation. Please email me at the channel email address and I would be happy to help.
Awesome thanks for the great video, are the inverters the ground neutral bond or is that at your main panel?
You're welcome. The bond is in my main panel.
@@CountryLivingExperience please excuse my ignorance, I thought the main panel was the 1st with the incoming power then sub panels were after? Is main just where the ground rod is connected directly?
@@tjmooney4181 Mine is an off grid system. It is wired differently. You'll have to look at my older videos to get all the info.
@@CountryLivingExperience great thank you. I'm curious because I have very similar system but use the 1st breaker load center as the main with the ground neutral bonded and separated them in the sub panel (which is the old main panel in the house with all the breakers)
FYSA. When using only two in parallel, you only need one communication cable (between the two inverters).
Not according to Signature Solar and the manual.
@@CountryLivingExperience Guess you will just need to test it out. 🫡
Just ordered one and 20 400 watt panels
Nice
Great video! with 2 batteries the xp unit and the solar panels it would be closer to $5G not $3500, still an excellent price for a system that's expandable. I'm starting with 1 xp and 2 batt.
Thanks.
$3917 plus tax
Another great video! What happened with the multipluses & Cerbo Gx setup? Removed and gave up on them?
Thank you. The Victron is setup at our barn.
What about the cost of the batteries? Also how many watts output to your house?
Great video
Batteries are always the most expensive part of a system. What do you need to know?
Watts output to my house? For the inverters? The inverters are 6000w each to 12000w if needed.
Well done video as always. Will you be connecting grid input to pull from if needed? My question is for users that will need to connect up to the grid, I'm looking for the best way to run the grid input into some type of transfer/bypass switch so you could bypass the unit if needed and still power the house sub-panel.
Thank you.
I am going to leave it as an off-grid only system actually. I think Will Prowse may have touched on that some.
I’d update all batteries so if your main fails you can replace with existing battery
Can one run a small shop with lights, outlets and power tools?
Yet, but.....Depends on the tools and how many are running at once. Depends on many factors. They have plenty of power for all kinds of jobs and tools.
Happy new year. Do these eg4 batteries have a place to hook up both inverters? Thank you
Happy New Year. You will need some sort of common buss bar to hook up multiple inverters.
That high starting voltage for mppt is a con for us. I would need to reconfigure my arrays .
I just purchased a complete system, 2 6000xps, 20 400 watt panels, and 4 li LL batteries. I am in the process of the setup and your video was super helpful. Thanks for all of your work! I do have on question, does the battery input cables go to both AIOs? I have two sets of battery cables in my packet. Do you connect both + cables to the battery buss bar or do you come out of buss bar with one cable and then split into two cables? Thanks again.
Awesome, you're welcome.
I am not sure what kit you bought so I don't know exactly what they gave you. You do need battery cables for each inverter and those in turn must be connected to the battery buss bars. I don't know f you have the battery rack with integrated buss bars or other external buss bars or both (like me).
@CountryLivingExperience hi and thanks for answering. I do have a 6 slot battery rack with buss bar. I was going to attach both positive cables (2 red cables) to the top slot on + buss bar and the two negative leads to the top slot on negative buss bar. Thanks again
That type of connection will work.
How did i miss this video? Thanks!
You're welcome
Nice update on your 6000xp . So what do you do with the eg4 6500’s ? Just purchase my eg4-6500 a year ago can afford to buy new ones😅. At least there are improving on the newer inverters lower power consumption, Wi-Fi app that’s informative and parallel connections. So keep up the good videos coming and have a wonderful holiday for you and yours.
Thank you. I will use the 6500’s for a small cabin that I want to build on the property. They are ever improving their equipment which is nice.
@@CountryLivingExperience I bought an EG4 kit back in August. I work slow (71, did a ground mount) and just got finished last week. The 6,500's are working fine but two are needed for 240v. If I lose one I will not be able to power my submersible well pump and my hybrid water heater. Should have waited. Might just buy a 6000XP to have on hand.
The xp6000 is rated for 8000 watts of solar, but I read somewhere that you should size the array assuming that the panels could produce 125% of their rated capacity in cold weather so one should limit the array because of that. On the other hand I've heard it's a good idea to supply more solar power because there's only a small period of time during the day when you can reach peak output. What's your opinion on this?
Both are correct. It is a delicate balance of many things. It is about the voltage coming into the inverter however and not the watts of the array. There are also voltage losses in the lines and connections, as well as the panel efficiency losses.
How do these compare to the Victron MultiPlus-II 2X 120v. 3000VA? I want to install it in a 50Amp RV for Boondocking. I have 4 LiTime 24v 200AH running in parallel. I will get 2 more in the future. This system looks a lot cleaner and easy to install.
The biggest difference is they are split phase and an all-in-one unit. You really can't compare them to the victron as they are two different types of systems. These 6000xp's are 48v however. You will need to configure for that.
You talk about a generator interlock kit in your main breaker. How would I add that? Does the 6000XP work better with a interlock kit vs a transfer switch?
The interlock is a physical piece that you add to the metal inner cover of your main panel. It costs about $40. A transfer switch can be either manual or automatic. An auto transfer switch will cost you about $1k installed. Either will work well.
I'd probably get these if they offered a trade up program. Otherwise, I have to find someone to buy my 6500s when I am ready to switch. I still might consider and 18kPV though because it has 200A pass through so I could comfortably put everything on solar but with these the pass through is like 50A per inverter from what I read. I feel like these grid supported inverters should offer full pass through since the 18kPV shows its possible.
Cool. I guess the smaller package may limit some features vs. the 18k.
Nice review, just curious why you went with two of these as opposed to one 18KPV
Thank you. I like to have a little redundancy with multiple smaller units. If one goes bad, I can still run most critical systems off of 1 unit. Or if I want to expand, I can add 1 more unit for much less than an 18k.
Very good point, thank you!
they keep coming up with better systems think I'm going to get these
They are running flawlessly right now and are very quiet.
I bought the 6500-ex in June, and they’re obsolete. Yes, they work but out of production. You CANNOT buy 2 more to upgrade an installed system unless you want used, and expansion was part of my plan.
@@rroades I understand. That can be frustrating when companies do that.
@@rroades They may offer refurbished ones.
Are you still happy with the 6000XP over the 6500Ex for offgrid use? I got the quote to upgrade and need to decide. I'm not having issues except light flickering on some lights but like the idea of 120/240 on each inverter in case one of them goes down I can still power 240 loads.
Yes, it is working perfectly well. I had a few issues with my 6500's until I got the correct firmware update. When I switched them for the 600's they were working perfect as well.
I noticed you have PV connected in reverse to the inverters based on the PV wire colors (red + black -). Am I correct? The inverter was labeled 1+ 1 - and 2+ 2 - from left to right but the PV wires look like they are connected black (-) red (+) from left to right?
Correct. That is because I reversed the wire colors originally when I ran them through the conduit.
Question about the AC side: why are there 4 wires? Where I live, all AC wires have 3 parts: Live, Neutral and Ground. Why do you have two live?
240 volt split phase power. Used for large loads like clothes dryer, water pump, stove, etc.
You mention it requiring two batteries. Is this because of the two units? Seems strange, not sure how that is required. It'd certainly be nice to have 2+ batteries just for the type of load a 12k system would typically have, but as a requirement to function?
That is the manufacturers recommendation.
Can I use four 12.8v 280ah lithium batteries with this system?
Yes, only if you wire them in series because these inverters are 48v.
Yes, I didn't know if I had to have a server battery for communications or not.
@@SBoth_ No need for comms
Great, I can get a 14kwh battery for $1,890 and a 12v 4 battery balancer for $100 all in under 2k.
Have you had good reliability with these? Looking to install in a remote camp with no internet!
Yes. They have been running flawlessly.
Going to be ordering a couple of those panels after the first. They have a curious statement about the PV rating that says 8kw but there's a 10kw maximum. No idea what they mean by that and find nothing in the specs about it. Only the minimum and maximum voltages and a warning to check panels for cold temp output.
Guess they can handle the watt fairies flying by and dumping a little dust on your panels? hahaha
I hope someone clarifies it too. The mppts can handle 4000w each so 8000w total and I guess the 10000w max pv input is to allow for over paneling for cloudy/winter days. That way the extra panels can help to make it to the 8000w max input. I guess in the summer at 10000w at max power it will clip it down to 8000w
Could be yeah. Curious they throw out numbers like that and leave you to guess what it's for.
But if I get 8kw total I'm sitting phat. My usage isn't very heavy @ about 20kwh/day. Storage is big on my list of things to do. Think 100kwh would be just peachy.
Find one of these new Ford Lightening's that somebody crashed into a tree, drag it around back and plug it in. Good to go. hahaha
I know. That is a strange statement and I was very unsure of it as well. I hope I can get some answers about that. Until then, 8k it is.
Just curious - it appears you have the red PV wire going to PV- and the black going to PV+. I presume the cables are simply the wrong color?
The colors were originally switched when the panels and pv wire were originally installed.
I just bought a EG4 600XP and had my electrician wire it to my Generac Transfer switch with a lite load. My electrician was not comfortable hooking the inverter to the batteries so I am wondering if there is an online service that I could pay to help me do that? There are not many solar consultants out on the Oregon coast where I live.
I make videos for the DIY individual. It is not that difficult and if you follow my vids, I think you can do it.
So will this not operate on one battery? I'd like to use this for just our washroom alone due to it's 2-phase capability, but I didn't think I'd need more than one battery for just the washer/dryer and a light or two, a couple times a week.
Appreciate your thorough coverage brother.👍
You're welcome. Manufacturer recommends two batteries or a total of 200ah capacity.
@@CountryLivingExperienceVery good. I appreciate the quick reply, thanks so much.
@@Nat_Sarim You're welcome
Do all the batteries need to be parallel and connect to the master unit or can each bank be hooked up to individual inverters?
They all need to be connected yo a common buss bar. That buss bar then needs to be connected to each inverter.
So what if it over loads? Would grid take over? And would it return to inverter mode?
It depends on how you have it set up and what settings you choose to program in.
Would anyone advice against this unit for a moving vehicle like an, RV, Van or skoolie?
There are people who use these for RV's. You just need a 48v to 12v converter.
Are the battery cables from each inverter going all the way back to the battery cabinet or to bus bars with one beefy cable to the cabinet? I didn't see.
Yes, that’s correct. The battery cables from each inverter goes back to that common bus bar. Then the big battery cables go to the cabinet.
So you leaving your main inverter as ground neutral bonded/controlled did you unbind in the breaker box? Im new and trying to get visual info on how it looks. Thanks
As an off-grid system, I did not change anything internally on the inverters. My sub-panel has grounds and neutrals separate. My main panel has grounds and neutrals bonded.
Just got my upgrade from SigSolar with their trade in offer. But they won't be shipping till May due to such high demand so I get a few months to plan the installation :) , Bye bye 6500-EX's and hello 6000XP's !
Great. How were the 6500's working? My last batch before these were working perfectly.
@@CountryLivingExperience Still working perfectly without a hitch and that is with the original firmware, I was about to upgrade the firmware but I've been lazy then I got the inverter upgrade offer from SS so I guess now I'm not going to bother anymore LOL
@@CountryLivingExperienceI have two I got in August in my solar kit but only got functional last week(I work slow). They power my home just fine, just lots of light flickering and one UPS was clicking so much I had to unplug it. I will be getting the replacement 6000XPs. I got a digital torque screwdriver, PV breakers need more torque then you might think. Also I doubt you are getting the pv input wires tight enough with that tiny screwdriver.
Hello,
I’ve got a question… maybe unrelated to this video.
I’m wanting to set up a 6000xp, 1-3 power pros, and a EG4 chargeverter GC with a military surplus 5k+ generator (I’ll also get a propane inverter generator). From what I understand I need a bus bar for the military 5k generator.
How would I set up the 6000xp, 1-3 power pros, bus bar, eg4 chargeverter gc, and the military generator?
Also what bus bar should I use or should I use one of those blue 1000 amp “vector distributors”(I think)?
Please help clearly confused
Thanks ahead of time
I cannot really explain the entire assembly process to you here. That is why I make these videos.
I also do not have a Chargeverter GC so I cannot speak to that. I have an older Chargeverter and it is just connected to my buss bars for simple manual charging is the sun is not available.
Can you hardwire a network cable to your existing home network rather than using the WiFi dongle?
Yes, there is but I am not sure how to do it. I know there is a process but you have to call EG4 and they will walk you through it.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks for the info. I thought there might be when I saw all those network ports on the unit. If you can hardwire into your network, it just seems like a more reliable and faster connection than WiFi.
Great video. I have 1 question. On the second Inverter, is setting 21 set to P1 also, or P2? If both inverters are set to P1, does that not mean single phase on both and I would not get 240?
As far as I am aware, they are paralleled already when set to the 1PH type. Then all inverters need to be set to P1 phase.
Mine work fine like this and power my 240v loads.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks for the quick reply. We got two of the 6000xp's, one already running, 2nd to be hooked up. We are thinking about an additional 30KWH battery rack. That should give us enough power to go for a couple of rainy days.
I wonder what the P2 setting is for.
Glad you are expanding your system. Should be great for a few rainy days for sure.
Check out Sig Solar's video on commissioning the 6000xp's. Kelly did a great job explaining the setup about 2/3 of the way through the video. ruclips.net/video/O8eVxRVwlnw/видео.htmlsi=2c4fKdNGKP8PhPn0
Please comment on the battery settings. Why did you have to use lead acid? Thnx
I thought I mentioned that.
I don't have the correct firmware on my EG4-ll battery so the comms will not work. The inverters will not read any LiFePo4 battery without comms. So you can temporarily set it to Lead Acid and enter in the correct Ah of your entire battery bank and the inverter will charge based on those parameters.
Great video! Very details. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful
Not meaning to be picking but just for some clarification, it looks like you have the negative from your PV array going in to the positive terminal on the mppt and the positive going in to the negative?
You’re correct. The wires are reversed in color from my original install but the polarity is correct.
@@CountryLivingExperience ahhhhhh ok cool, it makes sense now, that would confuse the heck out of me lol
What happened when the batteries are fully charged? Does it automatically stop charging? Or is that something you have to set up?
All inverters do that. Once they are full, the voltage is sensed and it stops charging.
How much battery storage do you have and approximately the what do you run off your system? I just ordered an off grid kit with the same inverters. I know I’ll need at least 2 more batteries. Kit came with 4 life pros
I have +/-46kw of storage. 10 EG4-LL 48v batteries. I run all modern appliances. I have 3 mini-splits. I do have a propane stove however. Well pump is on a separate system.
Do you feel like you have enough to comfortably not worry about power? I’m going to have to do the mini splits as well and they are my biggest concern of draw.
@@Sandwichdestroyer3456 Not yet. I am slowly building my system as money allows. I added more panels and a few more batteries this past year. I will continue to do that. I would say I have about 75% of what I would need to "not worry".
My mini-splits can draw about 1kw at the hottest part of the day but do an amazing job compared to a window unit or a central forced air system. They are the most efficient way to cool a home.
My grid volt are 240 can I give Ac 240 input
Question…Do you need to have the batteries into each inverter? What would I use to do that. I am just getting started really. I do have one bank of 4 Lipo EG4 batteries. Thanks!
In my opinion, yes. You will charge them way more quickly with both inverters being connected to a common buss bar charging the whole bank.
I saw someone use a 50 amp breaker ILO the 40 to power subpanel. Think he used #6 wire. What's your thoughts on that since you've had your setup for a while? Manual says 8 gauge which is good for 40 amps.
You can upsize it a bit. I think that 6 gauge may be the limit though. That said, following the manual is always best.
Can I use it with out batteries only get back up from grid
Thanks
Not these
Can this inverter power the house directly from PV without batteries back up during day time ?
Yes
This Eg4 6000 inverter will run a HOT WATER heater ???
Yes. No problem
Hi thanks again for the great content, what are your thoughts on grounding for off grid. I don’t want to create a ground loop in my system I currently have my main panel grounded from a rod and feeding the inverters and sub panel has separate ground and neutral bars. Setting 26 allows to enable or disable neutral ground bond with out an ac source should it be enabled or disabled? Thanks in advanced
I am certainly no electrician so my advice should be cross referenced with one. You should have one grounding electrode on the house. All sub-panels should have grounds and neutrals separate. Only ground neutral bond should be in the main panel. There should be equipment grounding conductors that run from each piece of equipment to a ground bar in the sub-panel and then ultimately back to the main panel. I believe the g-n internal bond comes disconnected. I ran mine strait out of the box as configured by the manufacturer. You will have to check with Sig Solar for a more indepth answer on this as my system architecture may be different from yours. Braden from EG4 did a video on this topic on the EG4 RUclips channel if you want to go check that out.
Thanks for the prompt reply. I spoke with signature solar earlier and explained my system layout to them. I have two 6000 xps in parallel feeding a main panel off grid grounded by an earth rod and have separated the ground and neutrals for the main and my sub panel. Setting #26 comes enabled as default and signature solar said this was fine the way I have it configured but they recommended joining my ground and neutral bars at the main panel and to then disable setting #26. I hope this helps someone else wondering the same. I love your content thanks for all the great info.
I have a newbie question for you about setting up the 6000XP. I'm pretty sure I'd like to set it up in my home, which is grid connected, and I have no need to send electricity back to the grid since the compensation for net metering is so low for where we live. How exactly does this unit physically setup in a way in which it is always connected to the grid, along with battery and solar? In my case, I have one 40 amp breaker that is unused in my sub-panel (there was an old wine cooler that used it and I took that unit out), but what's coming from my 40 amp is just the hot, neutral, ground. Where exactly does the L1 and L2 connect to in this scenario? And what about the difference between the load and grid breakers on this unit? I'm planning on hiring an electrician, but I'm just curious.
Since I can't physically see your home, I can only give some basic thoughts. Will Prowse set his up with the AC-IN connected. For me personally, I didn't choose to do connect the AC-IN and have not set up a system like that. Make sure your electrician knows DC power. Many do not.
How are these 6000xp units working out so far? Are you getting any light flickering at all or is it steady (assuming you're using LEDs). I want to get these so bad, but it's a large chunk of change to drop on them! Trying to sell my 2 TP6048 units first!
They are flawless so far. I get flickering with grid power on my lower quality led bulbs. I don’t notice a difference in flicker with the inverters.
Can these new units be installed outdoors?
No, they are not rated for exterior use.
Doesn't this inverter output 50 amps? If so, why is the AC output breaker 40amps? With 6awg, a 50amp CB would be more to spec, or am I missing something? Thanks for any info
Great Video !
Thanks!