You can't use aluminum wire for that grid connection. You can see on the bottom of the breakers that it says "Cu only". That connection is going to fail.
I just switched from the 6500EX to the 6000XP and the switch over was quick and painless. I have 12 of the EG4 LL batteries along with 12,000 watts of panels mounted on dual axis trackers. We use to live in the Piney Woods of East Texas but now we’re in Central Texas at the beginning of the HillCountry (Gatesville). I am getting ready to build the forth tracker and install 4,000 more watts of panels in order to max my system out.
@@EastTexasHomestead definitely worth the cost if you can build them yourself. I believe the total all in cost was around $1,000 and they hold 10 415 watt panels.
Here's an example, the cable I used for my AC is "approved" to be drug all over a shop, have water and oil spilled on it, and be just fine. However, once I stop dragging it around the floor and fix it to the wall, which is arguably safer than stepping on it, the NEC says I'm in violation. This is perfectly safe; the conductors are audacity sized, it's out of reach and won't be snagging on anything, but it isn't "approved" for that location.
@@EastTexasHomestead The NEC takes into account events and considerations you are not likely to ever think of. These events and considerations have been tested and/or experienced by laboratories, electrical engineers, master electricians and other professional organizations alike. But it's obvious the NEC doesn't apply to you. No point in arguing with a clueless RUclipsr thinking they are doing people a favor by posting a video of an illegal electrical installation. Could waste a lifetime doing that. Hope an inspection never comes your way...I really should hope for the opposite though, for your safety. If only common sense was common. Wish I could say it was a pleasure. Adios!!!!
@@URackADisciprine Or the NEC just like other regulatory bodies like OSHA, EPA, etc…sole purpose is to think of new rules and regulations that overcomplicate things to justify their existence.
I used a 2x4 to rest the inverter on when I installed my 1st inverter. 2nd inverter I used 2 screws to rest the inverter on. The 3rd install I used a smaller preinstalled screw for the top to hold the inverter while I installed the three other screws
Yeah... I almost lost it a time or two myself. Thought about using a jack or even drilling out keyholes as some do. Then i just decided to risk it and get it done.
You will run L1 and L2 from each inverter to the panel separately. So you will need two 240V breakers and each inverter will run L1 and L2 to them. I hope that makes sense.
Good question and I don't have a great answer. Mine is in the grid input breaker box closest to the main lugs. Maybe reach out to the manufacturer of the surge protectors.
I like the idea of multiple 6000xp inverters because if something happens to 1 of them you have more. If you had 1 12k or the 18k and it goes down that's it
Subscriber question: is there a way to wire the 6000xp+battery without the critical load panel but still able to use the grid to power the battery, assuming no solar panels? tks
I may need you to give a little more detail on your setup. The critical load panel is connected to the AC out terminal. The grid is connected to the AC in terminal. Each of these are independent of the other. You can charge the batteries and send power to the AC out with grid power alone and no solar. In fact, that's how we do it most of the time. We charge from the grid for free at night while passing grid power through to the homestead, then during the day we pull from the batteries and have a small amount of solar panels to don't do much. If you have more info on your setup, I can try to be more helpful.
Your communication cables are in the wrong ports. Check the diagram you showed. First inverter, right port cable goes into left port on 2nd inverter, same for 2nd to 3rd. On last inverter, right port cable goes into left on 1st inverter.
I just starting to learn about solar, this inverter looks like a great option for starting a small project, for what I noticed and read this unit can use power from the grid when running out of battery power or solar us not enough but cannot send back to the grid, quick question if you run out of battery will the inverter pull from the grid to keep everthing running and charge the batteries ? Thanks for the information.
That is correct! You can easily set the cut off percentage when it will stop using batteries and switch back to grid. Usually 15-20%. It will continue to supplement the grid with solar if you have it. You can then select a time to charge from the grid if you want to. I have it charge at night when I get free grid power. The downside, as you mentioned, is that I don’t have the option to sell back to the grid if I ever wanted to, with this unit. Hopefully that clears it up. Let me know if you have other questions
@@EastTexasHomestead sadly our local power monopoly will not pay enough lol, they just pay you the price they charge for generating power but they will charge usage-generating, I’m in south Texas and it looks like I may need to get a permit to install solar, not sure if will apply even if I install then on a porch. I can do the majority or maybe everything by myself but a license electrician is “required” I even thought on do a ground installation but knowing the guys in charge of the county they may even ask for a permit too. Again thank you for the information I hope I can get more information from my local authorities and see what is required for installation.
It is SOOW and 8 AWG. I think it was around $4/foot at Home Depot. However, it is not code compliant. For whatever reason, you can’t use this in a fixed location - but you can drag it all over your shop floor. 🤷🏼
First of all, I would like to start off by saying thank you for all the knowledge that you put out there to everybody. I got my E4 6000 XP and December per other peoples recommendations 10,000 W of solar is recommended so that’s what I have. All of my parameters are correct and not exceeding the limits Every single time my unit gets close to 7000 W of PV input the unit starts screaming. Can you do a video bringing in that much Solar according to signature Solar this is a problem that they are starting to see and do not know what the problem is. They are sending me out a new unit , thank you for your help if you can
Interesting. I only have 2000 W going into my system at the moment, so I can't replicate it yet. I have 15K of panels but nowhere to put them yet. I'll be sure to add this to my list of things to test moving forward. Thanks for the info, and sorry for your luck with that. Hopefully, the new inverter will work better and fix the issue. @martysurx111
That "screaming" is just the fans ramping up. Turning 7000w of pv into power to charge your batteries creates a lot of heat. I have 11,000 watts of panels and two 6500EXs, in full sun they both start roaring until the batteries get charged. I just upgraded to two 6000XPs and will be starting them tomorrow.
@@daddio7249 that’s not what it is because every time that happens the inverter shuts down the solar input and switches to grid while the inverter resets
@@BluecollarRVliving I have 2 6000XPs running with zero problems. I have wired the grid pass through but have not closed the breakers, I have 11,040 watts of PV and have not needed it. Have you tried throwing the grid breaker and using just the PV power?
@@daddio7249 I’ve tried everything you can imagine along with 4 hrs with tech support. If I keep my solar input at 6000 watts then it’s fine. Once the batteries are charged then I have no problem because my needs never exceeds 4500 watts
@EastTexasHomestead is there a video where you show where /how you're splicing the line in (grid) into the 3 cables you're bringing into the 3 inverters? Thanks for making these videos ; it's been a huge help to me as I learn.
Great vid. Just picked up my first one of these with a 4th LL battery this morning. What 8GA wire did you use? It looked flexible and a LOT easier to work with.
That's exciting! I used SEOOW 8 AWG. I believe I got it cut by the foot at Home Depot. While I think SEOOW or SOOW is perfectly safe to use in my system, It is not up to code. I figure if it's safe to drag on a shop floor and be exposed to the elements, why isn't it safe to run from my panels to the inverters? But that's must me.
Just get one to start, this system is expandable. I just ordered one lifepo batt one xp and 10 400w panels to start out. I plan on getting another batt and panels later.. my cost for one of each was just over 4k
Do any of the Power companies in East Texas offer net metering or is it just a no. My wife and I are getting ready to move back and build on our property in East Texas and I cannot get an answer from the power company I talked too.
I don't know. I can tell you that we use Just Energy and have selected the free nights plan. It's pretty sweet to charge the batteries for free at night and use the energy during the day. If you're interested int that, I believe they are one of two that offer that type of plan. Feel free to use my link below which would give us both $75. Just an option. justenergy.com/refer/? referralCode=1444E81
I’m not a fan of Ferrell sleeves because it’s “another” mechanical connection. I tin (solder) multi strand cables. It’s stronger, less resistant and can take more heat.
I would think just the opposite, metal expands when it gets hot making the connection tighter. Solder will melt when it gets too hot making the connection looser.
as someone who worked in electronic repair for 30 years for a company, I'd just say don't tin cables that have heavy loads. I've seen many control boards with solder spattered all over the inside when a component fails and the power wires get very hot very quickly. Solder all over everything, which caused everything else to blow as well. This was common to see, not rare.
You haven't explained anything about the actual install... which is the master...how is the grid connected to each inverter? how is the battery bank hooked up to each inverter...so on
I thought I gave a good amount of info, but maybe I'll have to go back and see. The master is selected by the first one to be turned on. I showed you how to connect the AC in (Grid), but I guess you want to see me connect the other side. You connect the other end to 40 amp double pole breakers on your grid-side breaker box. The battery cables connect to your battery bus bar. Hope this helps.
@@EastTexasHomestead thanks... my main thing is trying to figure out how to connect these two things to the battery bank and grid... wondering if this stystem also has an automatic transfer switch.
You dag nabbid backwood backward country boy you cants be wires n black n reds backwoods i means backwards, same tang. Lol kidding. Thanks for links to those blue things where wires come in bottom of eg6000 i knew i was like i know something should go here. Great video, watching for what you say about the 120v generator. I not planning on using that at least to start but always good to learn bits i not aware of. Thanks for posting.
HAHA! I know I'm not doing everything by the book but I really am trying to think through it and be safe. I'm glad the link helped. One of the problems I faced was not knowing what each part was called, so searching for it was all but impossible. I'm sure there's a better way to do a lot of this. Thanks for watching and leaving comments. :)
@@EastTexasHomestead Main thing is you safe and as you said follow directions especially when it comes to the wiring portion so as to not cause a fire or get a shock of life. Looks good, I too no expert, but from others I am watching set their 6000xp up yours is right there. So are you letting your eg6000xp control the ground to neutral bond since you off grid? Set enabled? I had to do some reading and asking on that and from what I got was if off grid let the 6000xp enable ground neutral bond and in the breaker box you disable ground neutral bond as the 6000xp has it. Is that what you got also, might have missed if you mentioned it in video. LOL that was my issue I was like hmm I do not know what these are called and figured I would next time in Lowes or Home Depo check near the breaker panels for something that would be what goes in them, possibly ask but that can be hit or miss. PS God bless, great to see more followers of God and sharing the word and being the light to our savior Jesus.
I'm actually grid-connected even though I run "off-grid" every day. So, I have the unit set so that the ground neutral bond is disabled, and the two are connected up at our meter pole.
Simple you say? hahaha It's supposed to be but........ I have three of them also set up in parallel. Been running one of them for a while and putting batteries together. Decided to fire up the other two just to see them start up and run. They came up without any faults but had a little frowny face and a flashing run light. Displayed no battery information and have AC outputs locked off. Read and reread the manual and remember a small statement that said the host which has the battery information via the CAN cable will pass the information to the slaves. Nope, not happening. Checking parallel status they do identify as host and slaves and can have their roles switched easily. Still, they no place nice together. Switch the battery type to lead acid on the slaves and they become fat dumb and happy, ready to get to work. Outputs enabled and are in sync with each other and verified by checking voltages across the top of the breakers between the panels. Pretty bogus seems to me but don't think that's how it should be. But can't find anyone yet that talks about it. Maybe a firmware update in order? But I don't have internet close by to do any updates until after Jan 1st sometime. Not all that thrilled in the first place that the inverter stops charging completely as soon as the BMS sends 100% SOC but it is what it is and add to that slaves using lead acid charging profiles. Sheesh. That's just plain retarded. OK rant done...... lol Frustration sux don't it! lol
Save $50 on the 6000XP: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=esttxthst
Auto discount when you use my affiliate link!
Thank you, but it seems this code is not valid!! Maybe it was for a limited time?
You can't use aluminum wire for that grid connection. You can see on the bottom of the breakers that it says "Cu only". That connection is going to fail.
They always say that. If done correctly it’s fine. But most people don’t.
Very nice! I'm also installing one of these now. I just used your link to buy the torque driver.
Thanks! It’s a nice set :)
I just switched from the 6500EX to the 6000XP and the switch over was quick and painless. I have 12 of the EG4 LL batteries along with 12,000 watts of panels mounted on dual axis trackers. We use to live in the Piney Woods of East Texas but now we’re in Central Texas at the beginning of the HillCountry (Gatesville). I am getting ready to build the forth tracker and install 4,000 more watts of panels in order to max my system out.
Sounds like you've got quite the setup :) How do you like having the dual axis trackers? worth the cost?
@@EastTexasHomestead definitely worth the cost if you can build them yourself. I believe the total all in cost was around $1,000 and they hold 10 415 watt panels.
@@richardoder3459 Do have any pictures of your dual axis trackers?
@@Scat.original I do.
@richardoder3459 what are the supplies needed? I'd love to build a dual axis solar tracker that can hold over 4000 watts of panels 🤔
Yes instructions say have isolator at the panels and of course with the 6000xp we have one right on panel. I might put it inside too
I thought NEC requires DC conductors inside the house at least had to be encased in metal like an enclosure or liquid tight conduit?
It probably does. This system will not be entirely up to code, but I will be doing everything safely.
@@EastTexasHomestead The code tells you what to do for a reason...because that is what is ACTUALLY safe.
Here's an example, the cable I used for my AC is "approved" to be drug all over a shop, have water and oil spilled on it, and be just fine. However, once I stop dragging it around the floor and fix it to the wall, which is arguably safer than stepping on it, the NEC says I'm in violation. This is perfectly safe; the conductors are audacity sized, it's out of reach and won't be snagging on anything, but it isn't "approved" for that location.
@@EastTexasHomestead The NEC takes into account events and considerations you are not likely to ever think of. These events and considerations have been tested and/or experienced by laboratories, electrical engineers, master electricians and other professional organizations alike.
But it's obvious the NEC doesn't apply to you. No point in arguing with a clueless RUclipsr thinking they are doing people a favor by posting a video of an illegal electrical installation. Could waste a lifetime doing that. Hope an inspection never comes your way...I really should hope for the opposite though, for your safety.
If only common sense was common.
Wish I could say it was a pleasure. Adios!!!!
@@URackADisciprine Or the NEC just like other regulatory bodies like OSHA, EPA, etc…sole purpose is to think of new rules and regulations that overcomplicate things to justify their existence.
I used a 2x4 to rest the inverter on when I installed my 1st inverter. 2nd inverter I used 2 screws to rest the inverter on. The 3rd install I used a smaller preinstalled screw for the top to hold the inverter while I installed the three other screws
All of which were better than what I did. LOL
@EastTexasHomestead I tried your method...I almost dropped the inverter. I had to move on to plan B
Yeah... I almost lost it a time or two myself. Thought about using a jack or even drilling out keyholes as some do. Then i just decided to risk it and get it done.
nice setup sir.from philippines solar installer
Thanks and welcome
How do you connect the l-1 and L-2 load on the main panel if you have 2 in parallel?
You will run L1 and L2 from each inverter to the panel separately. So you will need two 240V breakers and each inverter will run L1 and L2 to them. I hope that makes sense.
Got it
Nice project!
Thanks!
Where do we terminate surge protection for 2 inverters (off grid, standby genset, 4 dc strings from ground mnt array)??
Good question and I don't have a great answer. Mine is in the grid input breaker box closest to the main lugs. Maybe reach out to the manufacturer of the surge protectors.
I did and they direct through to vendor and they just don’t know
I like the idea of multiple 6000xp inverters because if something happens to 1 of them you have more. If you had 1 12k or the 18k and it goes down that's it
@@supremeautomotive6749 I’m 100% right there with you on that!
Subscriber question: is there a way to wire the 6000xp+battery without the critical load panel but still able to use the grid to power the battery, assuming no solar panels? tks
I may need you to give a little more detail on your setup.
The critical load panel is connected to the AC out terminal.
The grid is connected to the AC in terminal.
Each of these are independent of the other.
You can charge the batteries and send power to the AC out with grid power alone and no solar. In fact, that's how we do it most of the time. We charge from the grid for free at night while passing grid power through to the homestead, then during the day we pull from the batteries and have a small amount of solar panels to don't do much.
If you have more info on your setup, I can try to be more helpful.
U for got how to plug a drill into the inverter of grid
Good job! Exactly what did you use to mount inverters?
Thank you, sir! I talk about it here around the 7:5 minute mark ruclips.net/video/0OyEbkNgQdg/видео.htmlsi=mIKVeGXZg0dK8ETT
Your communication cables are in the wrong ports. Check the diagram you showed. First inverter, right port cable goes into left port on 2nd inverter, same for 2nd to 3rd. On last inverter, right port cable goes into left on 1st inverter.
I just starting to learn about solar, this inverter looks like a great option for starting a small project, for what I noticed and read this unit can use power from the grid when running out of battery power or solar us not enough but cannot send back to the grid, quick question if you run out of battery will the inverter pull from the grid to keep everthing running and charge the batteries ? Thanks for the information.
That is correct! You can easily set the cut off percentage when it will stop using batteries and switch back to grid. Usually 15-20%. It will continue to supplement the grid with solar if you have it. You can then select a time to charge from the grid if you want to. I have it charge at night when I get free grid power. The downside, as you mentioned, is that I don’t have the option to sell back to the grid if I ever wanted to, with this unit. Hopefully that clears it up. Let me know if you have other questions
@@EastTexasHomestead sadly our local power monopoly will not pay enough lol, they just pay you the price they charge for generating power but they will charge usage-generating, I’m in south Texas and it looks like I may need to get a permit to install solar, not sure if will apply even if I install then on a porch. I can do the majority or maybe everything by myself but a license electrician is “required” I even thought on do a ground installation but knowing the guys in charge of the county they may even ask for a permit too. Again thank you for the information I hope I can get more information from my local authorities and see what is required for installation.
Is the cable you are using for ACin SOOW cable? If so, what gauge are you using, where did you get it from and what is the cost?
It is SOOW and 8 AWG. I think it was around $4/foot at Home Depot. However, it is not code compliant. For whatever reason, you can’t use this in a fixed location - but you can drag it all over your shop floor. 🤷🏼
First of all, I would like to start off by saying thank you for all the knowledge that you put out there to everybody. I got my E4 6000 XP and December per other peoples recommendations 10,000 W of solar is recommended so that’s what I have. All of my parameters are correct and not exceeding the limits Every single time my unit gets close to 7000 W of PV input the unit starts screaming. Can you do a video bringing in that much Solar according to signature Solar this is a problem that they are starting to see and do not know what the problem is. They are sending me out a new unit , thank you for your help if you can
Interesting. I only have 2000 W going into my system at the moment, so I can't replicate it yet. I have 15K of panels but nowhere to put them yet. I'll be sure to add this to my list of things to test moving forward. Thanks for the info, and sorry for your luck with that. Hopefully, the new inverter will work better and fix the issue.
@martysurx111
That "screaming" is just the fans ramping up. Turning 7000w of pv into power to charge your batteries creates a lot of heat. I have 11,000 watts of panels and two 6500EXs, in full sun they both start roaring until the batteries get charged. I just upgraded to two 6000XPs and will be starting them tomorrow.
@@daddio7249 that’s not what it is because every time that happens the inverter shuts down the solar input and switches to grid while the inverter resets
@@BluecollarRVliving I have 2 6000XPs running with zero problems. I have wired the grid pass through but have not closed the breakers, I have 11,040 watts of PV and have not needed it. Have you tried throwing the grid breaker and using just the PV power?
@@daddio7249 I’ve tried everything you can imagine along with 4 hrs with tech support. If I keep my solar input at 6000 watts then it’s fine. Once the batteries are charged then I have no problem because my needs never exceeds 4500 watts
4 x 4 wire duct will be your best friend ....trust the master
I have no doubt. :)
@EastTexasHomestead is there a video where you show where /how you're splicing the line in (grid) into the 3 cables you're bringing into the 3 inverters? Thanks for making these videos ; it's been a huge help to me as I learn.
I think this video may be it. Let me know if not and I can try to clear it up. ruclips.net/video/-daYzGhKutk/видео.htmlsi=KFj8nQVKeboyVzi8
I do hope you re-torqued the battery connection nuts, the actual torque is 97-106 inch lbs or 11-12 Nm
Great vid. Just picked up my first one of these with a 4th LL battery this morning. What 8GA wire did you use? It looked flexible and a LOT easier to work with.
That's exciting! I used SEOOW 8 AWG. I believe I got it cut by the foot at Home Depot. While I think SEOOW or SOOW is perfectly safe to use in my system, It is not up to code. I figure if it's safe to drag on a shop floor and be exposed to the elements, why isn't it safe to run from my panels to the inverters? But that's must me.
@@EastTexasHomestead Thank you
The pv isolator should be at the array side of the pv wiring
Is that a code thing? It’s more practical for me to do it this way for now.
@EastTexasHomestead no it's just nice to have a disconnect at both ends for servicing needs
@@tjmooney4181 That makes sense. 👍
I would say the hardest thing would be coming up with the $13,000 for inverters and batteries
If you don’t have the cash it can be tough. We justified it by knowing it would pay for itself in a handful of years.
Just get one to start, this system is expandable. I just ordered one lifepo batt one xp and 10 400w panels to start out. I plan on getting another batt and panels later.. my cost for one of each was just over 4k
Do any of the Power companies in East Texas offer net metering or is it just a no. My wife and I are getting ready to move back and build on our property in East Texas and I cannot get an answer from the power company I talked too.
I don't know. I can tell you that we use Just Energy and have selected the free nights plan. It's pretty sweet to charge the batteries for free at night and use the energy during the day. If you're interested int that, I believe they are one of two that offer that type of plan. Feel free to use my link below which would give us both $75. Just an option. justenergy.com/refer/?
referralCode=1444E81
What!!!, no conduit on the battery Cables going thru chassis???
I’m not a fan of Ferrell sleeves because it’s “another” mechanical connection. I tin (solder) multi strand cables. It’s stronger, less resistant and can take more heat.
Thanks for sharing, Bill :)
I would think just the opposite, metal expands when it gets hot making the connection tighter. Solder will melt when it gets too hot making the connection looser.
as someone who worked in electronic repair for 30 years for a company, I'd just say don't tin cables that have heavy loads. I've seen many control boards with solder spattered all over the inside when a component fails and the power wires get very hot very quickly. Solder all over everything, which caused everything else to blow as well. This was common to see, not rare.
Why can’t you charge from a 120 volt generator? Crazy 😜!
I know! It feels like a ridiculous limitation. The chargeverter takes care of that issue though.
The new update allows the 6000xp to charge with 120v generators using l1 of the grid or gen input
You haven't explained anything about the actual install... which is the master...how is the grid connected to each inverter? how is the battery bank hooked up to each inverter...so on
I thought I gave a good amount of info, but maybe I'll have to go back and see. The master is selected by the first one to be turned on. I showed you how to connect the AC in (Grid), but I guess you want to see me connect the other side. You connect the other end to 40 amp double pole breakers on your grid-side breaker box. The battery cables connect to your battery bus bar. Hope this helps.
@@EastTexasHomestead thanks... my main thing is trying to figure out how to connect these two things to the battery bank and grid... wondering if this stystem also has an automatic transfer switch.
You dag nabbid backwood backward country boy you cants be wires n black n reds backwoods i means backwards, same tang. Lol kidding. Thanks for links to those blue things where wires come in bottom of eg6000 i knew i was like i know something should go here. Great video, watching for what you say about the 120v generator. I not planning on using that at least to start but always good to learn bits i not aware of. Thanks for posting.
HAHA! I know I'm not doing everything by the book but I really am trying to think through it and be safe. I'm glad the link helped. One of the problems I faced was not knowing what each part was called, so searching for it was all but impossible. I'm sure there's a better way to do a lot of this. Thanks for watching and leaving comments. :)
@@EastTexasHomestead Main thing is you safe and as you said follow directions especially when it comes to the wiring portion so as to not cause a fire or get a shock of life. Looks good, I too no expert, but from others I am watching set their 6000xp up yours is right there. So are you letting your eg6000xp control the ground to neutral bond since you off grid? Set enabled? I had to do some reading and asking on that and from what I got was if off grid let the 6000xp enable ground neutral bond and in the breaker box you disable ground neutral bond as the 6000xp has it. Is that what you got also, might have missed if you mentioned it in video.
LOL that was my issue I was like hmm I do not know what these are called and figured I would next time in Lowes or Home Depo check near the breaker panels for something that would be what goes in them, possibly ask but that can be hit or miss.
PS God bless, great to see more followers of God and sharing the word and being the light to our savior Jesus.
I'm actually grid-connected even though I run "off-grid" every day. So, I have the unit set so that the ground neutral bond is disabled, and the two are connected up at our meter pole.
Simple you say? hahaha It's supposed to be but........ I have three of them also set up in parallel. Been running one of them for a while and putting batteries together. Decided to fire up the other two just to see them start up and run. They came up without any faults but had a little frowny face and a flashing run light. Displayed no battery information and have AC outputs locked off. Read and reread the manual and remember a small statement that said the host which has the battery information via the CAN cable will pass the information to the slaves. Nope, not happening. Checking parallel status they do identify as host and slaves and can have their roles switched easily. Still, they no place nice together. Switch the battery type to lead acid on the slaves and they become fat dumb and happy, ready to get to work. Outputs enabled and are in sync with each other and verified by checking voltages across the top of the breakers between the panels.
Pretty bogus seems to me but don't think that's how it should be. But can't find anyone yet that talks about it. Maybe a firmware update in order? But I don't have internet close by to do any updates until after Jan 1st sometime. Not all that thrilled in the first place that the inverter stops charging completely as soon as the BMS sends 100% SOC but it is what it is and add to that slaves using lead acid charging profiles. Sheesh. That's just plain retarded.
OK rant done...... lol Frustration sux don't it! lol
What a disaster. As an electrical contractor, I must say that has got to be the sloppiest work I’ve seen in a while.
🫣
Does it work? Is it safe? That’s all that matters
Why don't you give specifics? You weren't trying to be helpful. You wanted to be rude.