Installing EG4 6000xp Inverter and NEW Power Pro wall mount budget battery & Critical Loads setup
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- Опубликовано: 20 сен 2024
- In this video I go over how to wire the EG4 power pro wall mount battery into the EG4 6000xp. I also cover how to connect the 6000xp to a breaker panel to power loads from your home.
Diagram provided by the Filter Guy.
Assistant editor Tabitha Stone
Affiliate links
Here’s links to the package I have on the wall including the conduit box.
Signature solars link
signaturesolar...
Current connected’s link
www.currentcon...
Here is the 2/0 battery lugs I used.
amzn.to/4aTweVr
12 awg wago connectors
amzn.to/3JczAHm
10 awg wago connectors
amzn.to/441rNpy
4 awg morris connectors
amzn.to/3VUDhJw
Ferrule crimping tool kit
amzn.to/3TWm3sw
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Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. this is a DIY channel and the content is for educational purposes only and is subject to change. Electricity is dangerous. Be careful. Also, don't eat yellow snow.
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#6000xp
#solarpower
#solarinverter
#offgridsolar
#eg4
#signaturesolar
#18kpv
Affiliate links
Here’s links to the package I have on the wall including the conduit box.
Signature solars link
signaturesolar.com/eg4-wallmount-indoor-battery-280ah-51-2v-eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-bundle-8000w-pv-input-6000w-output-all-in-one-solar-inverter-bndl-e0009/?ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo
Current connected’s link
www.currentconnected.com/product/eg4-budget-battery-backup-kit-6000xp-inverter-wallmount-battery-kit/?ref=xhJJBPDS
Hey Gavin I’m building a skoolie conversion and I want to be on and off grid. I am not super sure on if I need a critical load panel. I know I have a 50 amp shore connection and I’m going with the eg6000xp. Could I just have the main panel or will I need two. I’m lost on that.
Tip from a person who works in a UL 508a industrial control panel shop: for very fine strand wire, use a ferule/ring lug 1 size larger than your wire size. 2/0 fine strand = 3/0 ring lug.
how about ul 5964? what are your thoughts on this guys video? ruclips.net/video/i7CsDm1FfbI/видео.html
This is absolutely the best video showing how to wire this inverter into a breaker. I am a complete novice and I understand perfectly now what to do.😊 Thanks
I’m really glad it helped. It’s funny, the whole time I was making the video I was wondering if it was going to come out ok. 🙂
Really hit the mark on answers to questions someone needed to help with on these units. Thank you Gavin!!
Really glad it was helpful!
Thanks Gavin, enjoy the time you put into these informative videos for solar.
Wow! Thank you so much.
One of the best videos with a diagram making even more clear for people.
Thank you. Although I can’t take credit for the diagram. Someone from the DIY solar forum was kind enough to send it to me for the video.
@@GavinStoneDIY respect for giving dues where is do
Awesome video and Very well explain one question is how many solar panels do you have and what size are they?
Can't tell you how much your videos have helped! Most of us are visual learners and you've helped me design my system (mentally) so I knew what steps to take and how to lay it all out.
Cheers!
This is always great to hear. I’m really glad I could help. I know I definitely learn better visually.
Gavin, great job. I will be ordering this bundle soon. I plan on feeding the main panel through a breaker with a generator interlock. I will feed the grid in from above the 200 amp main breaker. There is another video out there doing that config. I will have the new ChargeVerter to charge the battery from my existing 120v generator. This config should cover all my bases. Again, great job with your videos!
This would be a more rare wiring setup. But yeah I’ve seen it done. Essentially making your main panel a critical loads panel. I would have to see the wiring schematic on it again. And this will work as long as your inverter/inverters can supply all your loads. Let me know how the install goes. I always like to hear from people
Great vid! Install a bypass. If the inverter fails your critical loads will be without power!
Ahhhhhh, thank you! This is exactly the explanation I was looking for! I can't thank you enough. I've had all the equipment for months but wasn't satisfied that I knew how to hook up. Life saving explanation.
Really glad it could help. I remember installing my first system. I watched videos repeatedly until I was confident enough. I would pause and play as I built attached component. 🙂
@@GavinStoneDIY Can you tell me where I would connect the ground wire from my solar panels? To the ground bar in my main house panel? Thanks so much!
@@Puzzledtoo ideally yes, it would run to your main grounding electrode. By code that’s what’s required.
@@GavinStoneDIY Excellent, thanks!
Can you please make a similar video that goes over the "lightning and surge arrestors" that are now included in most signature solar off-grid bundles?
Also I really love how clearly you explained things in this video, especially running the grounding wires. I've watched plenty of others videos doing similar setups but I would always come away confused how the grounding should look across the entire system.
Really appreciate that. I’ll try to make another surge protection video at some point. I did one on EMP shields. But I do like the midnight solar ones also. And they are definitely good to have.
Using 3 in parallel to power a country store "livn Green" we use 180kwh daily 😀 so this is huge for us. Made 96kw in one day and its early April 👍.
Wow that is awesome!
Just installed two 6000s. Really enjoy ypur videos.
That’s awesome!
I love you. This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
The OCD joke earned my subscription. Lol
Haha. Yeah just checking if anyone is actually listening. 😄
There are SO many people trying to hook up a 6000 or 12kpv eg4 inverter to a home panel...but it's hard to follow what should be done if you give comments for off grid and hooking to a main panel in the same video. Can you PLEASE do one comprehensive video of how to use a lock out bar to hook these to your main panel? Ray Liveless also did a video on using Polaris splitters or something to tie DIRECTLY into his main panel. Is this a clever bypass to using a critical load box? Or is it a dangerous practice? Thank you for all your videos!!!
I prefer using a critical loads panel. That way everything is automatic. Your grid will automatically kick in when the batteries are low.
If you use a lockout breaker you’d have to manually switch between them, and be limited to the total output of the inverter/inverters.
@@GavinStoneDIY Understood. I dont have much room to work with be ause it's actually a small shed I converted into an extra living space...and the main panel already takes up too much space because it's a 200 amp panel. Would I need any other box besides the critical load box? Does conduit come into the critical load box from the main breaker then go out of the critical load box to the inverter? I see you have 2 other boxes so I didnt know what each did. I'm sorry if these are dumb questions. I'm having to learn everything by myself and after watching videos for 2 years and deciding what I want...I find things I still wasnt clear on :(
@@changingmatrix8687 it’s no problem. We all start somewhere. You’d have one conduit coming from the main to the inverter. And one going from inverter to the sub panel. Then you’d also need a conduit between the 2 panels to transfer all your critical loads over.
Ok got it, TYSM Gavin
Talk to me a little more about that OCD treatment! ;) Nice video and something I hope will be useful in the near future.
Thank you for clarifying the 480vdc per mppt, even with an email to eg4 and Signaturesolar the wording of the response was a little confusing, I was 99% certain but you removed that last bit of doubt. Yes I am I do know temp. will play a part in the actual voltage transmitted. I will only be running about 320vd per string but with 2 strings, I worried I would exceed the capacity.
Yeah I think most the people in the actual tech field assume we can understand the lingo.😁 that’s why I try to use words like “per” and “independent”. I think it’s easier to understand
Enjoyed the video. I have my 6000xp in the garage not installed just yet and my battery and conduit box arrived today so I will have this exact same setup. I currently have a manual transfer switch for some of my critical loads and will run load out to it. May need to install a second transfer switch to move more circuits over. I thought about just running load out to a breaker in main panel but know it won’t run my dryer and stove so would be a hassle to shut everything down when I wanted to use those particular circuits. Never heard of anyone using two transfer switches but should be okay to do.
Best explanation yet!
Really appreciate that. Hope it helps.
But I don’t need any help….the colors don’t match! 😂😂😂
Great job! Lots of helpful info!
Haha. I left them that way just for people like yourself. There’s hope. Recovery is possible. 😉
@@GavinStoneDIY 🤣
Thank you for sharing your diagram. From the spec sheet it seems that the inverter accepts a maximum of 480 VDC input, not per MPPT.
The spec sheet is correct. It just doesn’t word it as “per”. The inputs are independent. So the voltage isn’t shared between the two.
Great video. I hope to find the funds someday to do this! Very thorough.
That’s exactly how I’m doing. My offgrade cabin is how you showed it. I just wanna know if I can use a 110 generator to charge the batteries if the solar’s not working or not sunny enough
Very helpful! Appreciate your explanations!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching
All the screws on the breakers have a torque spec, I got a digital screwdriver and 1/4 inch click torque wrench set. Nuts take less torque then you would think but screws much more. I check mine three or four times before I am satisfied.
At 9:40 you made me laugh my *s* off. Great job.
Haha. Thanks!
Great you answered some great questions. Thank You 🤓
Glad to help!
Awsome presentation. So you don't need to move the neutral into the control panel?
If you’re supplying grid power to the inverter for bypass, that will supply the neutral and ground. So at that point you’d just need to move the hots over.
Great video. I have some questions. If I have 2 (or more) 6000xp in parallel, do I need a separate breaker in the main panel to supply grid power to each 6000xp? If I have 2 of the 6000xp inverters in parallel can I connect my 240v 30a pure sine wave inverter generator to just one of the 6000xps? Thanks for taking the time to encourage and share knowledge with some solar newbies!
So I prefer separate breakers. But you can also combine inputs and outputs of both inverters. It just takes more work. I like to have a dedicated disconnect to each inverter. With the generator feed you would need to supply power to both inverters. So you’d need to split the output of the generator. Or turn off one inverter when using generator. It’s honestly easier to use the chargeveter in these cases.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks, that helps us plan things out
Thanks for another great video 🙏
either painted or get treatment for your ocd. made my day🤣🤣🤣🤣
There’s help out there. 😁
Wish the amphenol was a straight connector instead of 90 degree to the inverter, I just don’t like all the bending! Thanks for the videos!
I think all those connectors are 90’s. Yeah I don’t like bending wire around too much. But these are super flexible. So it’s pretty easy.
Really wonderful video
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the detailed walk through but I lost you at the Grid source. I needed to see how you are tied or wired to Grid. Can you show that connection on next follow-up vid .😅
Yeah the video was just getting so long I had to make cuts. It would be a double pole 40 or 50 amp breaker from the grid to the inverter. And the same 8 awg wire.
Great video
Thank you. I really appreciate that
Great vid as always…looking forward to more on the NHX-10K. Maybe some grid interaction features like zero export. Will the NHX be able to supply main panel without feeding anything to the grid with help from the CT’s.
Thanks. Yeah I don’t have that unit on my wall anymore. But I know other RUclipsrs will be making content on them soon. You’d need a monitoring system to see if there’s any backfeed when it’s on self consumption mode. I didn’t test that aspect.
With all that EG4 system setup and 6 X 400 solar panels on the roof of my new Rv
Thoughts FYI the new Trailer has a 12k mini split
It could work. The more solar the better, but roof space is limited I know. But 280ah is a lot of storage. So it probably depends on where you’re going to be. Less sun, less power. Some areas like Arizona you’d have so much solar coming in it would be fine.
So when the trailer comes in it will be easier to figure out
I have also be thinking of just making a racking system to have 8 on the Trailer and 2 on the van
10X400 will be 4k
@@GavinStoneDIY
Since it’s a trailer Mono or Bifocal
@@terrybrown5883 mono is fine. Bifacial wouldn’t really give any gain that far from the surface.
@@GavinStoneDIY I Thank you for all the Advice so I can make a simple easy decision for Build
My Grandson loves that he will get this trailer when he get out of School in couple year and I retire
Where is the six gauge cable that you bring to the breaker in the inverter connected to the grid? Can you show the other end of that cable?
I realized afterward that I left that out. That comes from the grid panel. A double pole 40 or 50 amp breaker as well.
Thank you
I noticed in this video around 23:10 you didn't show or speak about the neutrals associated with each circuit being moved. Although the diagram 4:28 shows the neutral being tied together via the 6000 XP. I understand that the neutrals can stays in the main panel but you should make mention of them being left there and why that is so.
The neutral does get transferred over. But it gets transferred within the grid input. So when you add power from the grid panel to your XP for bypass power, it will also be supplying the neutral and ground. So in other words, it’s one large neutral and ground coming from the grid instead of adding them from each individual circuit.
I think there is a Firmware update version to be axle to use a 110 gas Generator
Yes. That came out a couple weeks back. It also allows AC coupling and 3 phase power.
@@GavinStoneDIY
I have a Honda EB2800I unit I use for my mobile work
This is why all the Questions
Since I am building a new Fiber Optic Lab with living space in the front office grid all electric
I just ordered the trailer 101 wide 22 long with a Vnose
Ac/heat pump is Seville 12k
Fridge 7 to 10 size
Water heater 110 on demand with on off switch
All lights 12v led with couple lights 110 in work area
6 110 electric plug with 12v usb next to them
2 roof max air fans 12v
Yes 48v battery with a step down to 12v
Tv 110
Simple clean easy to setup on a Job or off time and No more Hotels
Good video
Hello Gavin, my wife and I were rewatching your video again and we just noticed the part about metal conduit for pv. I had heard it before, but this time it actually registered. So my question is, do I need metal conduit for pv lines just inside the house or do I need to dig up all of the grey pipe I just buried, buy metal and re-bury or actually bury the correct stuff? My wife and I very much appreciate your channel and your willingness to help out those not as knowledgeable as yourself. Thank you.
The code for metal conduit is just for indoors. You did the right thing using electrical conduit in the ditch.
Thank you for your quick reply. Have a wonderful day.
So, if 6000xp is not connected to Grid, then the subpanel should be grounded to Rod? What if i'm using Nema 14-50p to plug into grid?
The plug carries its own ground from the grid. If you have access to the grid at all, then the ground should come from that.
What (trade size) knockouts are available on the sides of the battery box?
I believe they have 3/4-1-1.5-2” sized knockouts.
Im a little confused as to where the grid power is coming from. You mentioned at 13:50 that you have grid power coming though that 6awg cable but where is the other end connected to? Is it directly connected to a power line or is to from the critical panel?
It would come from your main grid panel. You’d have a 40 or 50 amp breaker. And that wire would feed into the grid port on the inverter. And the output of the inverter goes to a critical load panel.
So it’s sorta like a large circle.
So your main grid panel will have a conduit going to the critical loads panel, and that’s only to transfer all your circuits over. And then it will have a conduit going to the 6000XP to give it bypass power, for when your batteries run low and you need the grid to take over.
I hope this helps.
Oh okay gotcha, I really had to take a closer look at the diagram from 4:00, and from what I understand is you essentially splice 2 wires from your main panel onto the grid port. Obviously there’s a 40 or 50 amp breaker in between as you mention.
This did help a lot, thank you. 👍
I have EG4-LL Lithium Battery (V2)
Yeah those will need a firmware update. They are triggering the rapid shutdown sequence on the pro battery.
Do you do plumbing too?
😐
You mentioned using a generator but I think I missed it. Is it on another video?
When it comes to a generator, I usually recommend using a chargeveter. Eliminates any potential power distortion issues.
ruclips.net/video/X2zhpP5Vl7Q/видео.htmlsi=NS9YlrzsIIEpvDsQ
Great video with just enough detail. Except for one thing. You do not show where the conduit from your main panel runs into your critical loads panel, nor how the wires are hooked up inside. Would be good to see. Thanks.
So the conduit would run from your main panel to the critical loads. Then the stranded wire I mentioned would hook to a corresponding breaker the same way it was in the main panel. Which is why it’s preferable to have a breaker panel with the same brand name. You can use the same breaker in the critical loads panel.
So the 20 amp I removed from the main would just be swapped over to the critical loads panel and the stranded wire would hook to that. You’ve basically just lengthened the wire for your breakers is all.
This is the area I get confused watts amp volts
My plans battery plus 3 day atonamy first Battery 48v 280 watt 14!3 l indoor EG4
How battery
Cargo trailer 8 x 22 ft
Add grid 6000XP inverter
Solar 6 or 8 400 watt panel on roof
10’p house fridge
EG4 hybrid solar mini split
Slow cooker
Microwave
Water on demand with switch
Light 12v
Water pump 12v
Volts x amps = watts.
That sounds like a good plan. It really all depends on how much you need to run, and how long.
Great video!! Hope to get same inverter/battery combo soon. Do you think/have experience of this setup running whole house to include furnace/heat pump(s)/hot water heater/well pump? Thanks!
I have the 18kpv so that’s 2 of these units worth of output. And I run my whole house on it. So yes, you can feasibly do that with 2 units. But you still have to be mindful of your loads.
@@GavinStoneDIY Getting 1 6000 ($ reasons) so I guess I can't run whole house systems but should be able to run critical loads, hopefully.
@@InVinoVeritas. exactly. 1 unit can run your critical loads. Well,fridges and freezers,microwave, lights. You’d be surprised how much 6,000 watts will run. And it’s expandable as money allows.
I’m installing this same system for my brother soon. And he may add another in the future when he has more money. But for the moment this is basically a backup generator. Except gas generators you want them running the least amount possible. And these units you always want them running and saving you money.
I saw a video somewhere that a EG4 Wallmount battery was used in conjunction with a Stack of EG4-LL batteries. I was connecting mine last night, and when i cnnected the Wallmount communication cable to my Stack of LL batteries the Circuit breaker on the Wall mount instantly tripped. I followed the manual using the (BATT-COMM) ports from Wallmount to (BATT-COMM) of LL battery, maybe i'm interpreting the manual incorrectly. Can anyone help point me in the right direction? TYSM
Yeah I talked about this in one of my videos. The LL’s may need a firmware update first. Which version of LL’s do you have?
Great explanation Gavin! What PV did you use for this? (How many panels and what size?)
Thanks. I have 2,700 watts of panels hooked to it. 6-450 watt panels. So it could definitely have a lot more PV. I’m just using the rest for my solar for the 18kpv.
@@GavinStoneDIYBrand, part # of panels? Link?
Thanks for the video! So you don’t need a neutral and a ground from the main panel to the critical loads panel at all? The line power coming from main to inverter covers that? Thanks again
Assuming you are wiring it into a critical loads panel like I did, that is correct.
Each individual circuit you are transferring from the main doesn’t need the ground and neutral. The main bypass wire will provide the proper gauge ground and neutral to supply the critical loads panel.
Yes sir. I’m wiring mine the same as yours. Excited to get started on this project. Folks like you putting these videos out make it more doable for the rest of us.
My inverter is in a different room than my panels. What do you think about running the line to inverter from main and load to sub panel through the same conduit? Is this a no no?
If I'm connecting my output to an independent load panel with main breaker switch, do I wire EG4 to the main 100 amp circuit breaker?
The purpose of breakers are to protect the wires you connected to them. So the wire has to be sized to the breaker, and vice versa. For a 100 amp breaker the wire would have to be 3 awg or larger.
So in this case you’re better off adding another 40-50 amp breaker in the sub panel to wire into. And leave the 100 amp breaker empty.
@GavinStoneDIY very much appreciated thank you, and keep up the great work. Your channel provides a plethora of info to the solar community 😀
Gavin, have you tested the grid bypass when you have grid power tied to ACin and when you have a low SOC on your battery and too little PV to power your loads? I’ve read where it can not charge the battery with PV while in grid bypass but there could be a firmware update later to address this. I also understand that it does check back in say 5 minutes to see if PV and/or battery is sufficient to power the loads and will switch back to inverter mode if that’s the case.
I haven’t tested that particular aspect so I’d have to check.
Thanks for the video. I recently tried ferrules on 6awg/10awg wire and noticed they came loose on the dc breaker. Seemed fine while tightening, but would slip out during tug test. The plastic housing prevented the wire from being inserted fully into the breaker. Just something to watch out for. Why would eg4 choose chnt brand, are they even ul listed?
That’s a fairly popular brand. Most rack batteries on the market use those also.
Good call on metal conduit for the pv wires. Do you happen to know if using two pv feeds, do they have to be identical watts and amperage, or can they be different?
They are independent inputs. So they can be different wattage without any issues.
@@GavinStoneDIY I am a new subscriber and thanks for the quick reply. I will be watching future videos on the 6000XP
Are the lugs supposed to be 5/16" (your link shows 3/8")?
Both will work. The inverter terminals are 5/16.
If I do the same and I tie this inverter to the grid, do I need to get permit and inspection?
You’d have to check with your local building inspectors. This is similar to a UPS you could buy to back up your appliances. Except it in this case you would be wiring a new sub panel.
Wow I brought over all my grounds and Neutrals when I installed my sub panel should they have stayed in the main panel? My inverter was shipped WITHOUT the grounding screw so it is not bonded at the inverter.
Which inverter are you using? The 6000 XP has a bonding option in the menu. But typically you’d bond the sub panel yourself if you’re off grid.
As far as the grounds and neutrals are concerned. It depends on the inverter. If you want to carry them over to the sub panel you can do that. But I’d recommend just bringing a large gauge neutral and ground over. It’s easier than feeding individual smaller gauge wires.
I have the sg6548 from sungold power they told me mine shipped without the ground neutral bond screw. I’m not off grid I just basically did what you did in the video but I moved all my circuits except my stove. The grid is basically my back up . Man, I wish I would’ve known all I needed to do to be compliant was to move the hot wires I may go back in revisited because it would be so much cleaner and just set it up how you’ve got it thanks for the video that was incredibly helpful.
What are the detailed mounting location ratings for these indoor batteries. Does inside in a pole barn in south Texas meet the requirements or is the outdoor rated battery required in this situation.
I haven’t studied into that section in the manual. Personally I think if the space isn’t conditioned, just to be cautious I would probably get the outdoor rated version. More for the humidity aspect than anything. But I may be wrong on that.
I am getting ready to wire up my sub panel and have a couple of qestions.
AC Input from grid:
I have L1 and L2 on a 40 amp 2 pole breaker going from my main breaker panel
to the EG4 6000 Grid breaker.
I have the ground and neutral going from the main panel to the
respective buss bars in the inverter. They are bonded in the main panel.
AC Output from inverter:
For the AC output I have L1 and L2 going from the Load breaker in the inverter
to a 40 amp 2 pole breaker in the sub panel. I have the ground and neutral going from
their respective buss bars in the inverter to the sub panel ground and neutral buss bars.
Does this sound correct?
Also, are the 40 amp 2 pole breakers enough for this setup.
I have 6 EG4LL 48 volt batteries hooked to the inverter.
Thanks!
That sounds correct yes. You can also use 50 amp breakers since the maximum pass through amperage is actually 50 amps. But honestly most people won’t utilize that aspect. The 40 amp breakers will work great.
Sounds like you’ve got it covered. Let me know how it goes.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks Gavin. I'll let you know.
Love your channel, great information.
@@GavinStoneDIY Got everything hooked up and it is working better than expected. Thanks again.
@@keithroach8493 that’s great! How much solar do you have so far?
@@GavinStoneDIY Right now I have 6kw of ground mounted panels. I've only had the system running for about a month. I'm running everything except the 2 air conditioners and the dryer. Next project is a transfer switch so I can manually switch the grid to the sub panel incase of an inverter failure.
I'm just about ready to start hooking up wires, they gave me two battery cables with the battery, I'm wondering if it makes sense to use them both when connecting to the inverter?
They send two sets because the battery can be used with multiple inverter types. The inverter only needs one set of battery cables. The maximum dc amperage the inverter will pull or push is less than 120 amps. One set of those wires can carry more than 250 amps.
I’m in California and have been thinking of powering my pool equipment with solar energy & batteries. From my main 200A panel, the pool equipment sub-panel is on 2X30A. So the setup you show here should be able to handle it and more? I have a second sub-panel with a 2X70A breaker at the main panel. It is for all the house lights with one fridge and freezer in the garage. Do I need a separate EG4 6000XP for the second sub-panel? The EG4 6000XP can only handle 50A so I don’t know if it can handle the second sub-panel (2X70A). Do I need to buy the EG4 18kpv? Thank you for any input.
So the actual output of the 6000 xp is 25 amps. 2 of them would output 50 amps. The inverter can bypass 50 amps though. Which is why I used that breaker size.
I would probably need drawing or diagram of your setup to determine what you’d need. But keep in mind the breakers that supply a panel don’t determine its actual usage. They just protect the wire that’s attached to the breaker. So your sub panel may not use anywhere near 70 amps.
Your pool equipment would likely run off one 6000xp, but you have to look at the pump to see what it uses as far as amperage.
@@GavinStoneDIYThank you for your time. I looked at the specs on the mfg. and it said “2300W, 208-230VAC, 20AMP”. I will get a meter to get more info. on the load. Thank you again.
Gavin great video so the battery cables and the communication cable don't come in the SKU BNDL-E0009-1 bundle? thanks
Yes. Those come with the pro batteries themselves anytime you order them. The wiring is included in the bundle.
@@GavinStoneDIY thank you
@@justanotherdillhole7824 sure thing. You’d need the 2/0 lugs though like i installed on the cables. I should probably add a link to those.
@@GavinStoneDIY sounds good
Hello, thanks for the video, I wonder if you can recommend me a wire for the load 1 and 2 I mean gage , I don’t know anything about wiring and I don’t know which one to pick , thank you, affiliate links would be ok , thank you
It depends on how much amperage you want for your bypass. But the easiest thing to do is get a 40 amp double pole breaker for your input and output wiring.
A big box store like Lowe’s or Home Depot will be cheaper than any affiliate links I would add on the wiring. And you’ll ask for 8 awg thhn wire. 1-red 1-black 1-white 1-green.
I have 3 6000xp and 3 powerpro coming in the couple days. How would you parallel the batteries and the inverters on the DC side
I would add one power pro per inverter.
Does this produce its own power from solar? And use the battery on cloudy days or at night?
Yes. If you check the link I have in the comments or description you can look a the manual. It has some schematics in there to show how the inverter operates. Hopefully that helps.
If your critical load panel is powered from the grid. And the grid is down, does the battery automatically take over?
Yes that’s how it would work. And you have a third option of using a generator as well.
I heard that you said something like since it was a 240 V you need a 240 V generator to power it versus grid my question is can you use a 115 generator to power the 6000 instead of grid it’s for a cabin off grid Or do I have to buy a new generator that runs 240 if that’s the case then I need to get the 3000 because I already have 110 generators
You cannot use a 120v generator into the generator port no. But you can use the chargeveter at 120v. That’s honestly the best option anyway. The chargeveter can take care of your charging without needing to involve the inverter at all.
@@GavinStoneDIY okay thanks
Can you clarify where the grid cable you ran to the inverter came from? I see some prople tap the2 lines from y the grid.
The grid supply would come from the main panel. Either a 40 or 50 amp double pole breaker. And 8 awg thhn wire. 2 hots, a neutral and a ground.
Thank you
Question for my code needs, if my OG power system is in a dedicated structure and connected to my transfer switch like a portable generator will it still fall under governmental regulations?
I’m not totally positive. But I believe if it’s connected to a transfer switch or a lockout breaker you should be good to go.
You do have to consider the PV though. If that’s on top of your house that would need inspections.
@@GavinStoneDIY ground mount for the win. 😁
@@Tiersmoke92555 exactly!
Can i run this inverter with a single EG4 5KW battery?
It could technically run yes. But you wouldn’t get full capacity out of the inverter with just a 100ah battery.
Plus it would be pulling pretty hard on the battery. That’s why it’s recommended to have at least 200ah worth of battery for this inverter.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you i appreciate the response.
If 2 eg4 6000xp were paralleled, would you use 1 50 amp breaker from each inverter?
Yep. You would just add a breaker below what’s there. And L1 would be the top and L2 the bottom again.
Thank you. Have a great day.
@gavinstonediy - did it come w/ the 5/18 lugs? thanks!
No you’d have to buy those separately. I left a link below in the description to the ones I used.
Working on my system right now. I think I have it all figure it out except for ground and Neutral bonding from the main panel. My manin panel does not have a ground, how should I wire it then?
How old is your home? They may have it grounded in a separate panel outside.
@@GavinStoneDIY the ground and neutral is bonded in the panel. Should I run separate ground from the outside to the 6000XP?
@@lukimy2704 it’s supposed to be bonded at the main panel. From there you’d run a ground and neutral conductor separately to the inverter.
@@GavinStoneDIY I just don’t understand what is the point of running two separate wires if ground and neutral share the same bus bar?
@@lukimy2704 they shouldn’t be on the same bar. They should have separate bars. Typically they will just be bonded with a green screw in the main panel. And that should be the only location there is a bond in the system. After that they remain separate.
There is a lot of articles on the subject if you want to delve deeper. The neutral is technically a current carrying conductor. And the ground is not.
How long will the battery run a 220 v ac unit 8000btu at night?
It’s hard to say. That would depend on how much amperage the ac unit pulls, and how often it cycles.
I'm no electrician, and don't understand why you only run one "hot" Black wire from the grid panel to the circuit breaker you are moving to your critical load panel. Why aren't you also moving the ground, red, and neutral?.
The ground and neutral are supplied by the grid input to the inverter. The red or L2 can also be moved if you have a 240v load. So for instance, your electric hot water heater would usually be a double pole 30 amp breaker, so you’d move the black and red for that circuit. Single pole breakers like lights m, would just need the one black wire moved per circuit.
hey brother what size were those knockouts?
On the XP? Starting from the left, 3/4- 1.5- 3x1”- 1.5. If I’m remembering correctly.
Can i have the link for xfer switch? Thanks
Which switch? The inverter has a built in transfer switch.
@@GavinStoneDIYi want this system but i want auto switch with grid power when battery is low
@@timidj3934 you could always invest in an separate transfer switch as well. But this system will switch automatically between grid and battery. It comes with an internal transfer switch in the inverter.
How to gauge what size all in one inverter I need?
Add up all your typical daily loads. Then go from there. A lot of people have some gas appliances. So they don’t need as much inverter to handle their daily usage.
Thank you
"Go get treatment for your OCD." 😂😂😂😂
😁
Why does your jaw not move ? Only your lips move !
(Guess is either too much caffine, or not enough woosahs).... 😂
That’s an extremely odd comment. Well it can’t be the caffeine. Because I don’t drink it.