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Yes. That applies to both mppt’s. So each has a max voc of 600v

@@GavinStoneDIY Gavin. Is that taking into account voltage gain in low temps? I was planning 2 502.8V arrays, but if my cold coefficient is 1.20 I could hit 603.36V or even potentially 628.5V if it hits a 1.25 Coefficient.

@@celicalostandfound the 600v is maximum allowable voltage. So you’d have to take that into account when designing the array. I would shave off a panel from that setup if I were you. Plus the actual usable voltage is 500v. The extra 100v is just for headroom in cold temps.

Reason I ask is because I see 4 inputs but the label says 2. Can you put 2 600V input on each side?

@@celicalostandfound the 4 inputs are actually 2 inputs. They just allow for paralleling. So it’s sorta like a combiner box within the inverter. It’s has a pretty high amperage allowance because of this, so you can likely parallel your array to achieve what you need.

No the fans will still need to engage to cool the boards if you’re being in PV. So the unit has to be on to charge.

@@GavinStoneDIY what happens when the EPS switch is turned off? Is that essentially an inverter on/off switch (in addition to it other functions?) Can you explain? I don't mind the fans going on when the mppt is running, but that idle draw is a deal breaker for me if it has to be there in order to charge from the mppt.

Im using 36 panels. 30 of which are 395 watt bifacials. The other 6 are 450 watt panels.

The generator will actually precharge the unit. But either way I haven’t ever used one on it. Probably wouldn’t be a bad idea. But I haven’t seen anything written on it that I’m aware of. You can adjust the current without generator power. The battery can power the unit and allow you to change settings I think. Yes it remembers the previous settings.

@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you Gavin - good information on your channel, and subscribed!

Interesting. I haven’t heard of the amber light blinking thing before. I may see if I can replicate that in my shop.

That shouldn’t be the case. Is the V1 the final battery in the run?

@@GavinStoneDIY yes I have it set to 4 I also tried it on the first battery and the third. Just not making any sense to me.

@@joshhartin78 sounds like it may be a dip switch setting is off. Have you gotten with EG4 yet?

@@GavinStoneDIY I’m with you it’s got to be a dip switch issue. I called SS support earlier today, but they just said they’re trying to work out the kinks and said I should just leave the v1 battery alone for a while. lol I do have a communication hub I might try to see if I can do some kind of combination to make it work. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Sounds like a hot mess. They should have figured this out before selling these. Thank you for explaining all this. You are doing what they should be doing!

Which version of the LL batteries?

@@GavinStoneDIY Version 2 LL’s.

@@bhbaker220 it depends on how many of the lifepowers I had vs the LL’s. As of right now one of them wouldn’t have communication, you’d have to pick one. The other battery can still be connected to the busbar, and it will charge and discharge with the rest of the pack. It just wouldn’t have battery communication.

Good stuff. Yeah he should be happy with these new ones for sure.

I’ve had a couple people suggest that. I dunno if that’s an issue if they aren’t getting moisture on them. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Thanks so much. I’m glad it could help

Thank you. I try to think of everything I would ask questions about if I just bought one.

Providing a clean pathway to ground is a good idea in some cases. I don’t think it would be a good call here though.

This isn’t a home.

Which inverter do you have? Most settings regarding amperage are related to charging the batteries. Whether from the grid or solar. The way you’d choose the amount of amperage coming from solar is by the panels you install, and how you install them. Also voltage pushes, and amperage is pulled. That’s another discussion, but it may play a part depending on what you’re installing.

@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you for taking my question! I have rich solar 6500 watt 48 volt off grid hybrid solar inverter 550 pv input. I have mega 400 watt mono crystal Max power volt 30.9 volt Max power current 12.9 amp Open circuit voltage 37.1volt Short circuit current 13.7 amp Maximum system voltage 1500 vdc

@@GavinStoneDIY I installed in series

@@GavinStoneDIYalso my batteries are alpha 5 (100ah ) 48 volt (2) Charge volt 52.5 Max charge current 100a Max discharge 100a

Yeah I think it’s a it’s probably a good idea. It could have been much worse here.

That amount of voltage can technically bridge some types of switches.

This are definitely a step up from the older voltronic’s units for sure. No updates on this one. I’ll likely be taking it off the wall soon to make more space to review another. Over all it did its job. I do prefer some of the other units on the market now. But these can get the job done.

I haven’t had this issue. Did you reset the inverter and clear the faults?

A surge could still easily fry your system when it’s off. You’d have to disconnect all your wire leads for it to be effective. That would be rather difficult for some people depending on the system size.

@@GavinStoneDIY ok....thanks 👍

Yeah I’ve seen them make an announcement about this. I’ve gotten the coms to work between 3k and the V2. The first time I tried it wasn’t difficult. Then when I checked again it didn’t connect. I finally was able to replicate it quite a few times. But it did take some work. I had to keep cycling through the dip switches.

Yes. It’s capable of doing both.

@@GavinStoneDIY awesome. thanks again!

It’s hard to tell what you’re asking.

@@GavinStoneDIY I'm sorry. I'll try and clarify. If you were to use the vehicle to load (V2L) plug from an electric car, these normally have a 3.6kw output via a plug. I was wondering if the cable could be run into the chargeverter to recharge the home batteries.

@@007silverwings so use the output of the EV to power the chargeveter in order to charge your home batteries?

@@GavinStoneDIY yeah, that's right.

Not ideal with conversion losses, but a good backup.

Yeah, I suppose as far as learning experiences go it could have been worse.

@@GavinStoneDIY true. Lol. At least it wasn't one of those 'let the magic smoke out' moments.

Possibly an issue with one of you connections. There isn’t a setting to change the unit to split phase. It comes that way. You should have roughly 6kw on each leg.

That isn’t a setting that I’m aware. The unit outputs split phase power.

Wow. Yeah I wish we could say that here.

I think I mentioned it in the video. But I used a product called Lexell between the panels.

Oh yes sorry. Gavinstone

Thank you Gavin.

Thanks again Gavin, just place an order. you should see it soon.

Really appreciate that. I’ll look them up.

I would imagine this could affect either roof or ground mount. So having some quality SPD’s is a good practice either way.

Sounds like a good plan.

The combiner breaker wasn’t tripped. SPD’s are designed to shunt to ground this way. There wouldn’t be any way to know whether my system would have survived without it, because I had it. 🤷🏼‍♂️ My inverter is around 130’ from my main panel.

@@GavinStoneDIY I thought you said the breaker had tripped in one of the comments. Regardless, the SPD created a short. it is poorly designed. It needs to have fuses to a) avoid creating that short and b) not set fire to itself and whatever else is around it. Sadly most MOV based SPDs don't have such fuses causing both of those problems.

@@AudioScienceReview the surge actually jumped the internal fuses on the combiner box. Either way I don’t think my issue was the SPD. It was the lightning/gradient pulse. But I realize you don’t agree. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Yeah I still need to finish checking my diodes. I’ve read that lightning can affect those as well.

@@GavinStoneDIY The array that got hit was old Trina Solar 240W panels, 20 of them. They each had 3 bypass diodes. ALL of them were shorted. Many had exploded and melted the plastic junction box covers.

This is good advice. I didn’t include this in the video.

I’m sure that’s true. This wasn’t a direct lightning strike.

That is true!

Yeah I’ve heard this from a number of people now. Seems like a worthwhile investment considering the cost of batteries and inverters.

And more is always better than less so never feel like you have ever overdone it when it comes to protection..

Yeah the surge could still have come from the PV side. That is possible. It’s hard to say really. The somewhat cheesy surge protectors I have on the ac side are still intact. But yeah, with a direct strike all bets are off really. I definitely don’t want one any closer.

They are yes. And I’m not sure. Really all bets are off when a nearby lighting strike occurs. I’m just happy I had something that did catch it.

@@GavinStoneDIY Fuses/breakers trip based on current i.e overcurrent/short circuit. Surge protectors trip based on voltage. That's why a fuse doesn't offer any real protection against a surge. Presumably, the EMP shield blew because of the sudden voltage spike and the Metal Oxide Varistors (MOVs) inside of it are now toast. You can see the MOVs in the new device that was installed, they're the large blue rectangular components.

@@The101damnations true, I’ve just had fuses blow also. So I’m surprised that all remained intact.

They’ve released some articles about the testing they’ve had done yeah. It’s not an easy claim to make. Evidently the testing was pretty extensive

It can I’m sure. The best we can do is our best. So I try to add multiple layers of protection.

@@GavinStoneDIY it can jump from a cloud to the ground. It's going to go where it wants to go. Consumerism isn't being safe, it's spending money you don't need to.

@@samuelfox8126 so your idea is to do nothing? I hope that works out well for you in the future. I don’t really follow that logic. But to each his own.

Any perspective on what would happen if you had disconnected the PV on the inverter or a PV breaker or disconnected the PV at a MC4 connector? If I know lightning storms are coming, I generally power everything down and open breakers but not sure if that would help with a close strike. Thanks for sharing!

@@bhbaker220 disconnecting the PV lines would do the trick I’m sure. That’s a lot of prep for each storm though, I guess it depends on your system size. But you also have the ac side of things to contend with.

Yeah I will happily pay to replace the SPD, rather than my entire system.

Volts x amps = watts. That sounds like a good plan. It really all depends on how much you need to run, and how long.