EG4 6000XP 48v off grid inverter follow up testing
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2024
- In this video I go into greater detail on the EG4 6000xp. I do some load tests and look further into menu options
Affiliate links:
link to the 6000xp
signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp...
Here is a link to a bundle that Signature Solar offers with the inverter, solar panels and batteries
signaturesolar.com/complete-o...
6000xp from current connected
www.currentconnected.com/prod...
Current connected bus bars
www.currentconnected.com/prod...
Here’s a link to a temperature coefficient calculate for PV. This is a fairly simple version. But there are some really complicated ones that can resell dial down the exact numbers.
footprinthero.com/solar-panel...
The ferrule crimper I use
amzn.to/3SGngVJ
This is where I got the heavy gauge wire for my system.
www.amazon.com/dp/B01M35S1J2/...
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#6000xp
#solarpower
#solarinverter
#offgridsolar
#eg4
#signaturesolar
#18kpv
Affiliate link to the 6000xp
signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?gclid=CjwKCAiA6byqBhAWEiwAnGCA4BWdlINZL6n1Tn8IV_SJl2hSLS4dpiwKFPOK0L8VDzJKsAO1v6m58xoCqcAQAvD_BwE&hsa_acc=6010647758&hsa_ad=&hsa_cam=17631500090&hsa_grp=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_ver=3&ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo&setCurrencyId=1&sku=1511090&PMax%3A%20Shopping_Smart_Brands&
😊
Have you ever looked at what the experts say about over sizing your array?
Great video! Appreciate the reference to the video testing this unit in parallel and it's good to hear the results. Nice work on the load testing as well. Pretty impressive how it was handling the range cycling at way over the rated limit. Looking forward to seeing more!
Signature Solar was smart sending you that unit to test. As always, good job Gavin. And Happy Thanks Giving.
Thank you! And happy thanksgiving to you.
Thanks for the video. Nice to see another stable unit coming from LuxPower. I agree, that screen is too busy. Glad they're working on an update for it.
Love your videos! You sold me on the EG4-6000XP. Especially liked your videos on your Unistrut ground rack. I will be building mine using your design. THANKS for the useful info.
That’s awesome! Let me know how everything goes.
Having preparations pays for itself before you ever use it in my mind. Just knowing you are ready. Nice video!
Agreed. And you have to start somewhere. Even if it’s a small 12v system just to run one fridge.
First off Happy Thanksgiving to all! Can"t wait for mine to show up! Had ordered a 2nd EG4 3000 to go with my current one, but while I was waiting for it to come this thing hit. Sent the 3000 back when it showed up and now waiting for the 6000!
You’ll love it. Plus it’ll be way less idle consumption then 2 3k’s. The software is nicer on the 6k as well.
AC couple the 3000EHV in the Generator input
Thank you. For your help and doing great video.
I think EG4/SS struck gold with Luxpower. I'm really impressed with this 6K XP unit. Awesome video Gavin.
Thank you. Yeah I agree, I keep poking and prodding looking for flaws in their gear, but they make a really nice unit. I just installed an 18kpv for my father and he’s loving it.
@@GavinStoneDIY Nice, glad he's enjoying it. The 18K is a really nice unit.
Hey Gavin, great follow up. It's nice to hear LuxPower is updating the screen as you're not the only reviewer to mention that. Also good to see it push 8kW for a few seconds, great for those start up loads. I wish someone had reviewed this with an EG4 PowerPro. I was considering two EG4 LLs, but for $800 more right now I can get the 14.3kWh PowerPro and that's 3 LLs!. I only have a few hours left to decide if I'm pulling the trigger on one - just deciding on the batteries.
I’m hoping to get one of them in the next month or so. For the price and features I’d say the pro’s are worth it. But I haven’t gotten my hands on one yet
I would love to have one of these units. Amazing 👍
Yeah they are super nice.
That was a great demo of the overload rating in practical terms, stoves are a heavy but inconsistent load in real life.
Yeah I probably need to do what zapper did, and wire a chargeveter to inverters to test them. It’s a nice consistent resistive load.
@@GavinStoneDIY I guess but this was a far better real life test.
I went above and beyond the Chargeverter...hooked them up to my 18Kpv and turned on grid AC charging at 12,000 watts.
Good info brother.. I just ordered one yesterday...
Awesome! Keep me posted on how it goes.
theirs a saying (it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it) and from my experience when hurricane Maria hit us here in puerto rico in 2017. man I wish I had solar yes I had a generator but the gas station where out of gasoline and it took weeks for them to get refill again do to the fact that lots of road where damage or Block from trees and debris. so we went for weeks with out using the generator. now I have solar and also my generator for back up. solar is a win win situation no matter what. I rather spend $ in a solar system than to suffer like we did in hurricane maria.thank you for sharing your thoughts awesome video!!
Yeah I need to add stuff like this in a video I have coming up. This is exactly why backups are important. Thank you for watching.
@@GavinStoneDIY thank you. yes it will be a great video to see!
Thank you for the shout-out.
Sure thing. 🙋🏼♂️
I’m excited to receive my two units hopefully next week. Replacing 6500ex’s.
That’s awesome. Keep me posted on the install. These are definitely easier to wire up. Much larger wiring compartment. And the software is so much better.
I've been tempted to order one of these for an emergency backup to my SA 15k, I just wish they were hybrids. But it would still be nice to have if SHTF!
Exactly. I think that’s actually a good idea. I’ll likely be keeping one around for a backup on my system as well.
Great vid as always thx…hope they add a grid tie feature that includes CT’s…the old 6000 could supply grid but wasn’t listed and didn’t have the smarts for CT’s, but this unit could probably do it within existing software…
They have actually hinted on the forum about potentially adding an AC coupling feature. But I’m not sure if they would eventually add grid tie. Likely not.
Thanks 👍
Great video. If you can test an unbalanced load that might be helpful for us that have higher draws on one leg with the way circuits were set up on a panel or sub panel. Thanks for the video and testing.
The first test was technically an unbalanced load. Near 4kw on one leg. It handles it really well. Although ideally it would be best to just move the circuits around and balance them as you monitor the unit. And try to get it as balanced as possible. I spent some time doing this when I set my system up originally.
The reason people ask about solar’s ROI is because you have to spend 3x to 4x money to get less overall useable capacity than a generator. A $500 6kw portable generator can give you 3x the amount of energy as the $5000 setup (plus solar panels cost) here.
I’m with you though, I find the battery option much better and save the generator for redundancy.
Yeah I get it. But when you factor in fuel the gap starts to narrow. And a quality generator can be pricey. There isn’t any perfect solution for every situation. But solar has a lot of benefits in the short and long term.
Gavin. I have been on the fence for some time now on the low vs high frequency inverter. Low frequency definitely wins but the current offerings lack so many features that his all in one has, they currently just can't compete. (High voltage MTTP, tech support, easy software, PRICE) Even if you threw this inverter away every five years (end of warranty) and bought another, you would still be money ahead. Plug and play means a lot. And for high surge loads, just add another inverter. The failure of the unit causing damage to your loads is concerning, but unless YT of blocking the posts, I haven't seen any. Thanks for all the info.
LF inverters definitely can be solid units. I think it says something though that midnight solar’s new 10kw inverter is a high frequency. Midnight has been around a long time. They know their stuff. This just reflects the fact that HF units have come a long way. They can handle inductive loads, and line imbalances better than they could before.
And you’re right about features. These units just make things so much easier.
Thanks, waiting for mine!
I wondered if the fan speeds affect idle consumption.
Good question. Typically if the unit is idling the fans aren’t active. However if you set the fans speeds higher I’m sure it would affect the usage.
Thxs for the video. Im plannig on using it for outages running as a ups backup for an apartment unit with a 30kw EG4-LL rack. No solar charging and ocasionally charging from the grid. If I set the inverter in savings mode will it passthru grid power without much self consumption? If I turn off the inverter once the batteries are fully charge, does power passthru to critical loads panel with the unit off?
These are actually both good questions. The inverter would need to be on to enable bypass mode. But it could probably be in standby. Which would use basically nothing as far as wattage.
Hey Gavin, I bought that ferrule crimper and tried to use it for the first time today on some 10 gauge BougeRV wire. I used the yellow ferrules for 10 gauge. I couldn't get the plastic part to go over the wire's insulation. Ultimately I just broke the yellow plastic piece off by accident so I just used the metal ferrule on both wires, no yellow plastic 'skirt'. I was wondering if you had a similar experience with these heavy gauged 10 AWG wire and that crimper. Thanks.
No mine have worked great. It’s possible your insulation on the PV wire was a bit thicker then the ferrule was designed for. That’s odd.
Wanting a completely redundant system able to keep going if a unit goes down on its own while running two in parallel what would the best solar input setup be? Do you think I can run all my solar into two bus bars below the units and then have each unit paralleled off those bus bars and each unit would take half of the available solar and then if one goes down the other would take all of the solar or however much it could handle?
You cannot share the PV input in the way you’re describing. You could potentially fry the DC bus.
As far as how to wire them for the best redundancy, It would depend on the amount of solar input you have. Just splitting the arrays between the two units would probably be fine. So for instance if you had a 20 panel array 10-10. In the event of an emergency with one unit malfunctioning. You could potentially reroute the PV to the working unit temporarily with some Polaris splices. There are ways to create a bypass or manual transfer switch for this. But I think that’s too much work for what will probably never be an issue.
This looks great, 4 of these costs the same as a Sol-Ark 15k, but you can do 24kw. Not bad at all.
I'm still looking for some reviews of these in parallel.
They are fantastic inverters. There’s a few videos of parallel 6000xp’s. I haven’t heard any of issues with them.
@@GavinStoneDIY When connecting multiple inverters in parallel, do the batteries all connect to the master unit or can each bank be connected to each inverter?
@@KoiAquaponics typically you’d add a busbars at a central location and branch from there to each inverter. Signature Solar has 12 stud 600 busbars that are perfect for that. I have a link for those in most of my videos.
I like how if you need more power than the 18kpv has (12kw) you can buy one of these and ac couple it to the generator input of the 18k and now you have 18kw of inverter power and 8kw more pv input
Nice, too bad it's not outdoor rated like the 18KPV
Yeah that’s true. But this does keep the cost down considerably.
Technically yes it can be added to the 18kpv in a couple ways. I’d really need to see testing on that first.
@@GavinStoneDIY Ok
Can you try running a furnace with this? IE, the furnace blower being a large inductive draw. I'm curious if most home 3/4 or 1hp blowers can be run with just one of these inverters or not
Unfortunately I don’t have a furnace here. I have 2 central air heat pumps. I use a soft start with those and if it can start my water well it could definitely start one of them. Honestly though, unless that’s the only thing you’d have on the inverter you’d probably be better of with 2 units anyway.
Gavin, do you have to do a firmware from start out of the box?Will doing a firmware be a problem for people that don’t have internet access?
There are fairly easy options for doing firmware updates without direct internet access. I’ll try to show them soon. Do you have cellular service? If so you can use that as well if you get the cellular dongle. There is a firmware update available when you install the unit. It lowers the idle consumption a bit.
Hello - Could you perhaps review wiring this unit to the grid along with covering the software setting to enable/disable neutral bonding? I would assume most users would be connecting up to Grid to pull from as needed. And the associated setting for source priorities. i.e., Solar then Battery then Grid
Yeah this would be helpful to people. I’ll see if I can work this into an upcoming video.
Great video, thanks for doing the sound information. I'm guessing the only real noise is from the fans? My plan is to use this in a off grid cabin and have it placed in a hall closet next to bedrooms. I would imagine the noise at night would be next to nothing as no loads being used and no solar coming in? Thanks!
Yes the only noise would be from the fans. And with minimal loads it makes very little noise at all. Just a low hum really.
Good point about "does a backup generator pay for it self"?
Thanks. Yeah I’ve just heard that mentioned about solar so often it just seemed odd to me how I never hear it about anything else like generators.
Hey boss. These are just the calculations I needed. Thanks for the explanation! I’m building a larger electrical mobile unit out of an enclosed trailer I’ve converted to be powered by the 6000xp with 10.2kwh server no alternator charge tied. My biggest question is grounding the system in a mobile application with no grid tie. Is grounding to the frame fine because of wood blocks and rubber tires. Or do I need to tie the ground to a rod at every location. I’m worried times I’ll be around pavement only. Thanks again boss!!
That’s a good question. I’m honestly not sure. I haven’t done much with mobile applications yet. I would call EG4 and ask.
@@GavinStoneDIY Yes sir. Thanks
Great video! I’m enjoying my unit as well. I also notice you are still running your batteries in lead acid. Any reason why? I ask because I am as well.
Signature Solar didn’t send me any of the communication cables for the battery so I’ve been unable to update the firmware.
Just a firmware update needed at this point to get communication up. I’ll probably do it next week if I have time.
I run communication to my 18Kpv. When I was working on my 18Kpv wire box I moved battery communication to the 6000xp.
Great informative video as always! Can you connect a 120 volt gas generator using either the 20 amp or 30 amp output to the 6000xp, or does the generator need to be 240 volt output?
Just subscribed to your channel.
A split phase unit like this would need 240v input. Honestly an easier option is using a eg4 chargeverter. That can charge the batteries without issue with a generator while the 6000xp continues running.
Any generator added needs to be an inverter style, 240 volt split phase. Traditional rpm based alternator generators operated at fixed engine speed of 3600 rpm, making fuel consumption greater than an inverter style which will change engine speed according to load. Also, a traditional generator has harmonics in the output frequency and this is not wanted by the EG4 and other brands which convert generator AC to charge the battery.
Is the 480 volt DC upper limit per MPPT or total of both MPPT’s combined?
Per mppt. I meant to add that into the video.
How does the grid function work? If I have a load that is more than the battery power or sun power available will it switch in the grid power to compensate? What is the maximum wattage it could produce with grid and sunlight together?
This is an off grid inverter. So the grid can be used as a bypass in case the batteries reach a certain low level. Or if there is an overload. But the functions you are mentioning sound more like a hybrid unit. The 18kpv has those features.
Am I correct in thinking that you were running an electric range for your test at the end of this video? As in a 230 volt range?! Two ranges?
Yes it’s an electric range with a double oven.
Could you or have you done a video on the 18k pv settings, looking how to set it up using non battery communications, and any other useful settings thanks
Yeah I’ll see if I can remember to roll that into my 6 month review video.
Thank you
Will this all-in-one control a stand by generator as in to it on and off as needed?
Yes. It has generator contacts to control that. Plus a dedicated generator feed.
Will this device work with x-10 modules? It would also be nice to see this or ANY unit working with a generator. Something missing on most if not all videos I've seen. Thanks in advance...
It should work with those yes. I believe the “adventures of a renaissance man” channel does go over using the dry contacts for your generator. I really do prefer to use the chargeveter instead of the generator directly into the inverter.
Great video. I had a 6500EX that I returned because idle consumption was way too high, and it was noisy. I now have a Victron Multiplus II and it is very quiet and has super low consumption, but is a complex system. What are the limitations of the 6000XP power save option, and can you tell from the app how much you lose on average per day when you take all inputs (grid + PV + generator) and subtract total output per day? That accounts for all possible losses/efficiencies and would be more useful than just idle consumption I think. My 6500EX on average ate up 3000W per day using it mainly as grid backup with a small amount of solar. The Victron under the same usage draws about 500W per day.
The app may shed some light on what you’re describing. I typically don’t feel dive into the graphs and stats very much on the app. I could check and see. It’s hard to compete with Victron when it comes to idle consumption. They are really the best in the industry in that department. From what I’ve seen from Adam Delay the software on Victron is a bit outdated in some respects. But does have a lot of detail.
3000w per day is nothing. A 100 watt panel would make that up....
@@kevinroberts781 Not where I live. I have 800W of solar, and I average about 2500W in summer (4000W on clear days), and about half that at this time of year.
@@GavinStoneDIY That would be great if you get a chance. The Victron config app is antique, but the VRM is not too bad. Kinda like Solar Assistant.
@@GavinStoneDIY Victron's idle consumption is one of the best. But there systems are not all-in-one and their design is targeted to RV applications. I wish Victron will make all-in-one unit someday and keep the low idle consumption. The reason why they don't make all-in-one could be the profitability of selling parts separately.. Configuring Victron for non-RV settings appears to be time time consuming frustrating and their software seems to be out dated as indicated by Adam.
What type of Battley are you using? How many? with out changing can you power your house? good video.
I’m using 3 eg4 LL batteries to power the unit. I would need a second 6000xp to power my house. I’m using an eg4 18kpv to power my house. And I have around 1200 ah of batteries on that.
Question. Is it possible to input more than the MPPT rated 4000 watts as long as the VOC is in the safe range? As i understand it, the 6000xp is rated for 4000 watts of solar input per MPPT. What would the negatives be to being over that 4000 watt limit ???
It would throttle any additional wattage. So 8kw is the max useable wattage. But it has an allowable 10,000 watt threshold I believe.
@@GavinStoneDIY So i could but a 5000 watt array on each MPPT . Basically wanting to be able to maintain as close to the 4000 watts as possible and with NMOT solar panels can generate about 25% less watts so a 5000 +/- watt array will produce 3750 watts +/- and that being below the 4000 limit on the MPPT would be optimal in my opinion. If i am thinking of it correctly. Tell me if you feel I am wrong. Trying to generate as much as I can with the fewest panels possible. Thanks
@@sjbill1793 that sounds doable. As long as you are below the voc and amperage limit with the panel layout you are describing I think you’d be good.
The display update you mention - was this going to be a software update or a new screen design?
Software. It can all be done with firmware
This was my question as well, thank you for asking it!! 😃
Do led lights flicker with these inverters? Do you see any flickering at all?
No flicker unless you have a heavy inductive load. And then it’s a brief flicker. But that’s to be expected. It’s essentially ohms law in affect. It’s very steady without any issue with lights
Would you be able to run a 120v generator into the gen side (1 leg) and charge the batteries? I do not want to replace my 120v genny with a 240v.
You’d need a 240v generator. It has to have both legs powered.
get a chargeverter to do this. IT will run at 50 amps charging (half capacity) and need an adapter, but it IS rated to run on 120v and is a useful piece of kit by all accounts I've read
Does this inverter consume grid power even though the sun is out like the 6500ex's do?
I believe most off grid inverters use a small bit of wattage to make sure there isn’t any backfeeding issues. But this is a good question. I’ll have to check on it.
How loud are the fans? I could barely hear them. I plan on running a mini split with mine as well. Want to keep down noise
At full PV input or full ac output they do wind up. I wouldn’t want them in my bedroom. But they wouldn’t be obnoxious in a utility room or garage. Much quieter then the generation of inverters before this.
I understand the L1 and L2 Grid Input at 120v for each leg. The Load seems to indicate that L1 and L2 are also 120v for each leg?
Where in the Panel box does L1 and L2 Load goes? Do you have a wiring diagram that you can share?
You’d send the loads to a 40 or 50 amp double pole breaker in a sub panel.
As far as the N-PE bond is concerned. In a total off-grid setup, I would establish my N-PE bond in my load center and disable the N-PE bond in the inverter? I'm a bit confused on this.
In a totally off grid setting you would enable the bond and the inverter would be your sole bond.
@@GavinStoneDIY So you're saying that I would not use the bond screw at my load center ? Why do you suggest the bond at the inverter ? Is it better in your opinion ?
@@sjbill1793 you want the bond to be as close as possible to the power source, from what I’ve read. There isn’t a downside to letting the inverter be the bond from what I can tell.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you for your reply. Isn't the N-PE bond in the inverter just a relay ? And if so, do we actually trust a simple relay to perform this function reliably ?
@@sjbill1793 I wouldn’t have any issue trusting it myself. These units are very reliable. Plus it will no doubt have a UL rating soon enough. I don’t think that would be an issue.
I dunno if I'd mess with fan speeds and stuff for no reason. They could have determined that at 75% the fans last 4x longer or something. Was it running hot?
No it doesn’t run hot. I believe the unit will override your settings in order to stay cool. I guess this just gives users some more options. 🤷🏼♂️
Gavin can you do a video from start to finish on set up. Do you have to do firmware update at startup. I am totally off grid. The customer support from Signiture Solar is pretty bad. I have a 12k growatt and nothing but total problem. Customer support is the biggest problem.
Within the next 2-3 weeks I’ll try to do a detailed video of an off grid setup. And I’ll add the details on the wireless setup as well.
Do you think this would be enough for a standalone solar car port to charge my EV daily and charge 3 100ah 48v batteries? Maybe it would also give me an option of emergency power for my home as well.
So you would have a continuous output of 25 amps. A lot of home ev chargers are around 40-50 amps. But that can be adjusted lower of course. So it really depends on how much you drive every day. The batteries wouldn’t be enough to charge the car in the evening. But that system could accomplish a lot depending on how you use it.
@@GavinStoneDIY I charge at 16 amps now for my daily 50 mile round trip. Thanks for the videos and feedback back!
Here's a question: If you're using it to put out 240v, does the grid power have to be 240? or can it be 120? Same question for the generator input, and I have read the gen has to be an inverter style gen, tho I have not seen that explained.
Yes the unit needs a 240v supply of power from generator or grid. They recommend inverter generators because they provide a clean sine wave, even at higher wattage outputs. The easier route is to buy a chargeveter. That eliminates the need for an inverter generator
Can you share a link to that solar calculator? Thanks Gavin 👋
Sure I’ll add a simple one in the description of the video. There are more complicated calculators that can really dial down the exact numbers.
This sure makes a lot of people regret buying the 6500EX, especially if you're like me who bought one 6 months ago. Especially as the 6500EX is in the basement under my kitchen and if there's intermittent clouds and it sounds like someone is ramping a jet turbine up and down under my feet. Plus I only have one of them and now it looks like I'll never be able to get a second unless I buy a refurb.
Yeah the sound is a factor for sure depending on where the units are located especially.
I totally get that frustration with the 6500’s being discontinued also. I’ve heard this from a few people. And that’s really one of the difficult aspects about tech as it changes. The older gear gets phased out. I will say there is definitely a market for resale on the 6500’s. I know of a few people now that have sold their older units for a pretty good price. I plan on selling mine also.
It’s still an inconvenience. But it’s an option.
@@GavinStoneDIY I've been in IT for 24 years now and I've never seen a piece of equipment go from state of the art to obsolete and no longer produced in a span of less than 18 months, and that's in an industry where rapid obsolescence is a fact of life... but that's how my luck runs. :)
@@teseract the solar industry is changing at an extremely rapid pace. The events of 2020 and onward really seemed to have pushed more people into a preparedness mindset. And that in turn seems to have driven lots of innovation.
To be fair the voltronic 6500 watt inverters had been out for nearly 2 years I believe by the time the 6500ex came on the market. All that being said, there will always be something new coming up I suppose, The point is to find something that works for you and makes the power that you need.
@@GavinStoneDIYThe whole industry seems to be of the mentality of "take out a second mortgage and drop $30-75k and hope you can still get parts to repair what breaks in 2 years". And I thought computers were hard on early adopters...
@@teseractbut it was never state of the art, more problems than benefits
I've seen a few people having a issue with setting the battery mode to Lifpo4 that are not smart batteries. Can you confirm?
It depends on if the BMS is compatible with the lux software. Which batteries did you see people having an issue with?
does this EG4 6000XP have internal battery? and if so how big is it?
No internal battery. So you’d need at least 200ah of batteries to go with this inverter.
Can this unit supplement grid power if the pv is not keeping up with load? Like set it to use pv or battery first and use what little it needs from the grid?
I don’t believe so no. You’d probably need a hybrid inverter like the 18kpv with some grid interactive features for that. Although, I am going to read more into it and see.
I read somewhere they will supplement but now I can’t find it, maybe I was dreaming lol
I thought that was the purpose of having the grid connection? What other purpose does that grid connection serve? It believe it won’t backfeed
@@TylerTheCompilerit’s a. Off grid inverter, not grid interactive. Can charge and pass through grid but not invert and charge at the same time.
@@cgutowski471thx for that. I thought that was the purpose of the grid tie. So the only time you can use grid power is when there’s no sun or at night?
Hello...Could you talk about charging the battery from a gas generator (Honda 2000) through the EG4? Or point me to where you already covered it . Thank you
I would use an external charger. Like the chargeverter. The Honda 2000 is a 120v generator. This inverter would need a 240v generator because it’s split phase.
Oh wow I thought the generator in port was for charging batteries through the inverter@@GavinStoneDIY
Thank you for answering so fast
@@johnlew5972 it can charge through the inverter. And the inverter can use the generator to pass the power through to loads if the batteries are low. But just keep in mind it would need to be a decent sized generator to accomplish that. The manual recommends the size of a generator to use I believe.
THank you!
@@GavinStoneDIY
PLease help me! I spent ten hours today ripping out an old solar power system (24V lead acid) and installing a new one (six lifepower4-48V and an EG4 6000XP).. But the inverter will not produce power. I gotta get this new solar power system running tomorrow or I hafta rip it out and re-install the old!!!
It’s likely the battery not communicating with the inverter. Switch them to lead acid for now on setting 3. Then you can work on coms.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THAN K YOU!!! I'll give that a try this morning.
What is meant by a minimum 120volt input solar. Is that voc or vmp?
Most people would calculate that using voc. Ideally you’d want to be well above that. 150v and above. That will save you issues in the long run.
So anything over 385VDC per MPPT is just wasted? Due to the MPPT not being able to track anything higher than that 385VDC voltage? I was thinking 8 - 455 watt panels at 49.35 VOC = 394VDC at 3640 watts per MPPT, not temp compensated.
Technically that’s correct. But that little bit of voltage difference wouldn’t make any difference. It’s rare that your voltage is ever maxed out anyway. That would work great.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thanks Gavin. I just did the temp comp on the panels. Per mppt, at 15 degrees F, voltage goes up to 434.2 for 8 panels x 10.96 IMP = 4758 watts! Guess that number is still ok as the manual states max recommended input wattage is 10,000, unless that's a misprint. I assume that is for both MPPT's, 5000 each, and NOT combined into one. Manual is a bit unclear here, on a few different items.
@@sammyboyde6489 the specifications are per string. So that’s 5000 watts, 480v and 17 amps per string. Actually over that amperage if you need to. A few days ago I mentioned to eg4 that they need to specify that these specs are per string. Sometimes it can confuse people. Technically there is a menu option to combine the PV strings. But I think most people will opt to have them separate.
@@GavinStoneDIY That's allot of capacity, too bad the unit cant utilize all of it. Sometimes when new tech hits the market, the documentation is lacking. End users become the beta testers... ETA - or rather, "proof providers".
@@sammyboyde6489 it is a lot of capacity. I guess it’s actually better to have that headroom though. Technically the unit is capable of more but they lower the specs to keep things cool and for longevity.
Hi Gavin it's MikeG I hope you don't get upset but the person talking about High frequency inverters and inductive Loads is correct.In my opinion high frequency inverters is sub par the iron core pure sine wave transformers by far.please don't get mad just calling it like I see it
Certainly doesn’t upset me at all. I love LF inverters. Schneider, Victron, Outback. They all make amazing low frequency inverters. And they have some really great idle consumption numbers as well.
However HF tech has come a long way. Will it completely replace LF inverters? Maybe, or maybe LF will win the day. In the end the market will decide.
It’s really just the fact that I’ve discussed this at length with him on numerous videos. And he posts this same reply as a public service announcement to “warn” people of the pitfalls of HF inverters. 😐 it’s gotten old. And in fact it’s just plain odd.
@@GavinStoneDIY Your right Gavin
@@mikeg2321 what’s the latest on your system? I miss seeing updates. Still planning on shutting the channel down? Or do you have some plans for more content?
Just made one.i got 10 amp balancers I am testing for everyone and a little hiccup on that your have to watch the video after it loads today and talking to company on bringing in high voltage wall mount inverter HF lol to see if higher voltage and HF can pull these big inductive loads.keep up the great videos I know I watch them😊
Just made one.i got 10 amp balancers I am testing for everyone and a little hiccup on that your have to watch the video after it loads today and talking to company on bringing in high voltage wall mount inverter HF lol to see if higher voltage and HF can pull these big inductive loads.keep up the great videos I know I watch them😊
What happened when your batteries are fully charged. Does it automatically stop charging?
Yes. The charge controller knows what the parameters are for the battery. So it stops when they are full.
Thanks so much
This is a split phase unit. How is it wired for Grid input. How is L1 and L2 wired? Do you need to have 2 120v lines to L1 and L2?
1 phase to each leg. So L1 and L2 to the input. I think I’m going to make a wiring video in the next few weeks.
@@GavinStoneDIY So this means 120v to L1 and 120v to L2. Just want to be clear.
@@franklyngreenaway6863 so a 40 or 50 amp double pole breaker from your main will feed the input to the inverter. That will provide both legs.
Ok. Thanks
Good day. Do you have an email address that you can share? I want to send you an attachment for your review and advice. Thanks
I added a small 32 inch monitor that hangs on the wall using a Bluetooth mouse and keyboard.
I thought about doing something similar. Essentially a “cerbo” type of design.
I am super confused about the PV input thresholds as I’m trying to evaluate this system. Here’s an example: The manual says that each PV input has a nominal threshold of 4000 W (and 5000w max) and an operating amperage of 17 A (isc 25a). Doing the math that means that “ideallyl I’m at 4000w/17a = 235 V on that #1 MPpt for ideal watts in. And of course, #2 MPpt Has to be balanced/identical. Signature solar told me *EACH* pv input could be 17 amps and 385v but that math is not adding up as that would be 6500w on each pv input. It Has to be that the total 385 V is shared or equally divided across the PV inputs, correct? So target total voc per pv input around 385/2 or 195v each input??? I hoped that your hands on could answer some of these questions thank you!
The total for each input is 480voc and 25 maximum. The actual wattage could be over paneled quite a bit. But they do mention the thresholds for that as well. They are two separate inputs. So they don’t have to be identical. 385v is the max usable voltage. And the additional 100 volts is just for head room.
385v and 17 amps doesn’t mean those thresholds have to be met. Those are just the max usable. So you may parallel some panels and get near that amperage number. Or have a greater number of panels in series and get near it. But those are the numbers for each separate input
How many batteries can you have hooked up to this 6000xp?
The inverter only requests as much power as it needs from the batteries. So there isn’t really a limit to how many batteries you can add.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you!
hi did they ever update the display ? thanks
Yes. It doesn’t scroll through all the options anymore. Still just stay on a specific setting. So that’s helpful
Thank you Gavin
Hello! Thank you, I am very much missing a link to that app?
The EG4 app?
@@GavinStoneDIY Could be. The EG4 app I found didn't look like that, maybe I did not go far enough into it? I should add, that EG4 is on backorder, I should have one by 1st of April.
@@taliaperkins1389 should be a gray background on the app.
As for paying for itself… how much money is a full or even half a beef in a freezer worth? Let alone the other foods in the freezer. Think 20 cu ft freezer. Or maybe two!
I use Victron charge controllers, I have three of them. This means I have two array on each string for each charge controller. All panels are different.
What I decided to do was lower the voltage on each charge controller by using the software, limiting how much voltage comes through by lowering it from 100% to 80%
Trying to keep the battery bank charging around 100 A and not to go over it. I would think that it wouldn’t be a problem in the winter at all? As far as voltage rising above the hundred percent range, when everything is at 80% in the software. 🧐
That would all still depend on the max VOC of the charge controller itself.
@@GavinStoneDIY
It was originally designed with a 24 V inverter in mind. So all wire sizes and busbars are oversized when I upgraded to 48 V. 🖖
I wish someone would make a liquid cooled unit, the fans are too loud
I’m sure that will eventually be commonplace technology. The fans really aren’t too bad. Unless the unit is in your direct living space. That would be sorta irritating.
That's bad! If one leg goes down you need both to shut down! That way you can shut off 220v breakers and start up the working inverter
These units are split phase. So if one unit goes down you still have 6kw of split phase power working. With the previous 6500 watt single phase inverters, when one leg went down, the system would completely shut down as you describe.
@@GavinStoneDIY correct and that's bad. You don't want one phase working and the other not working. That's very bad. Just ask a heat pump or a well pump. Anything that runs on split phase 220v in America needs both phases. These system absolutely need shut down as one unit. That way you can shut down your 220v stuff. Once those have been isolated you can restart the good inverter.
You never want only one leg running when you have 220v items installed.
@@kevinroberts781 exactly. Although I don’t know of any system on the market that would keep running if one malfunctioned and they were paralleled and providing a single leg each. It’s designed on the software for them to fault and disconnect.
That’s what makes this so much nicer. The power can continue to function in the event there’s an issue with one unit.
Not everyone qualifies for the 30% tax credit since it is non refundable. The poor people living off grid might not qualify. I know i don't qualify for it cause i am legally blind and on disability.
This is true. There are exceptions.
@@GavinStoneDIY I been using solar as an inflation hedge to lower my expenses and owning a house is another inflation hedge for me.I been living on a growatt 3000 for a few years now. I would love to upgrade to this unit but its minimum voltage is so high it makes it hard for me to switch to it since my existing solar panels are 100watt panels and i currently have them wired in two strings of six panels and barely get to that voltage.I would need to replace all my panels to get a better voltage to make the switch.. I have the two strings cause of some shading issues.
@@keithculvahouse1191 that would make it difficult yes. Solar has definitely dropped in price. And there are occasionally some very good deals on signature solar’s website. But yes you’d need a bit more voltage to wake the unit up.
😢😅ஹஞளல.சழ
It’s a shame the inverter is not configured to back feed to the grid. Hybrid
True. That’s where the 18kpv comes in though.
Actually I think that's the best feature. That's why the cost is almost a third of the price and why it's a technology that could potentially change the world.... There ain't nothing out there on the market that even comes close to competing with this
They will never be paid for. You will always be upgrading or replacing defective equipment after warranty expires. We don't know how long these will last but I would be surprised if you get 10 years out of them.
Wouldn’t take long for them to pay for themselves at the price they sell for. So I can’t agree with that.
@@GavinStoneDIY I'm talking about the entire system in general. I have over $20K invested which is probably low compared to others. You will always be changing something out. You certainly have already and how long have you been solar. And I bet you will find something else to upgradr to within a year!
I believe you were a true fan of the 6500EX. I just sent mine back for store credit. Another victim to the falsehood reviews which I fell for. It is a piece of junk that to many youtubers looking for that affiliate link money praised. Guess I'll try another one of your recommendations!
@@jeffbaker5837 eh yeah that’s true. At any point you could stop. But there’s always something new to see or upgrade to. Solar is addictive.
@@GavinStoneDIY Yes sir I agree and it is kind of cool to produce your own energy, but expensive. I got into this because of piece of mind if the grid would go down for a long period. No guarantees though. I do enjoy your videos and keep it up.