Last year one of my tomatoes fell in love with my watermelon vine. They had a very nice symbiotic relationship it seems. Those tomatoes put on more than I've ever seen out of any of my past tomato plants. I think it's because the watermelon was shading it somewhat. The watermelon vine produced way more melons than ever before. There were around 30 watermelons on that one vine. Those two plants reseeded themselves so I'm gonna let em grow together again and see what happens. More and more I've been gravitating towards landrace gardening
Good to know! Thanks 😊 I am fixing to plant both tomatoes and watermelon 🍉 I'm gonna try this. I think you're right about shading. Plant basil in there and it helps tomatoes from getting the horn worm.
I'm switching to growbags because, I've had issues with my raised beds. So, when I set up my growbag, despite all the advice of strictly potting soil for container gardening, I mix 50/50 garden soil (dirt) and promix potting soil. I just started this process this year. All my plants are looking great compared to years past. But ultimately, success will be measured in harvest. Jury is still out on this. I hope I find success because, last year was a lot of work with little reward. I also know all of these Garden videos sound great butt gardening zone makes a huge difference regarding advice and gardening
I've found that tomatoes do better just flat in the ground. I've wondered if being in a raised bed is too hot in the summer. But patio tomato like the Betalux determinate does great in pots.
It was great witnessing the worm getting out of the chunk of ground, and then after we could see the hole they leave behind. Those holes are so important for so many reasons. Hurrah for worms!
My property is the depository of our towns leaf cleanup in the fall. So each year I have it dumped in a new location and then plant after about 6 months changing the structure and fertility of our entire property.
I've got one garden with no mulch and everything is dying after a couple dry hot weeks. My other garden is mulched 3 inches deep, plants are vibrant green and growing fast. That mulch really makes a difference especially in Summer. Use it if you got it
If you don’t have it, get it. I use loads of different materials as a mulch. As long as you don’t dig it in you can even use shredded branches and leaves.
I'm a big fan of mulching, my old lady thinks I'm nuts for gathering the neighbors leaves. I tried to tell her that I am building our soil, protecting bug life, protecting the tomatoes roots from heat, retaining moisture and doing my part to provide a green future for the planet. That being said, I do have an issue with once a day watering. Yeah, around here NYC, we do get a couple of really hot, windy days. On such days I have watered more than EOD, heck sometimes twice a day! I have always felt that plants should get a big drink.... then let soil go on the crumbly side, .....then water to the point of saturation.... Then repeat! Am I wrong?
Grow strong tomatoes that can survive the heat and drought In general better Let plants get thirsty so they grow deeper roots to search for water Deeper roots means more nutrients from the soil
We all have to use our best judgement. It is your garden. Most tomatoes you buy are grown in rock wool in greenhouse They sit in water all day like hydroponics adding air to the water. That tomato is about 95% water.
I understand what you are trying to say. . The roots really bring very little water to the plant, The way tomatoes get most water by 80% and nutrients ( microbes ) is by mycorrhizal fungi. Next video
Zone 5b, Western, MA here. My tomatoes are in direct sun for 10 hours this season. Inherited another garden space. Tomatoes started to curl. This was a neglected/over used space. Treating it and will add mulch/compost/manure in the fall. Anyway... BURLAP saved that garden! The tomatoes and peppers are thriving in the heat of summer. Phew! I had grown pole beans, but they did not help in these areas. Hoping we are good to go. Been a couple of weeks and all are good. Peace
I'm in NJ too. What county are you in? I'm a massive proponent of leaves and leaf mould. I'd take a tandem load of leaves over a tandem load of mushroom compost every time. Let it sit for a year or two and you've got the true "black gold".
I actually let the native grass from my walkways creep in under the tomato plants and grow in the shade under my market tomatoes. It doesn't seem to negatively affect them in growth or fruiting and leaves a soft landing for any wind blown ripe fruit. When I plant the tomatoes, I rake or pull the grass clumps easily back. And I let it grow and cover the ground the rest of the year when nothing else is growing. It is not a super aggressive grass like Bermuda ect..
I have a decent size backyard here in bay area, ca , but can't grow vegetables in the ground as the yard is full of very tall trees - Redwood, Ash etc and their roots have invaded all potential places in my backyard for growing vegetables . But I do get lot of leaves every fall and have learnt the technique to make leaf mold from these leaves in just six months, by crushing the leaves and storing in black garbage bag in moist condition under shade. Since I have switched to container gardening now using big 25 gallon pots, I am wondering if I could fill these pots with just pure leaf mold or 50:50 of leaf mold and compost and grow tomatoes etc in such pots without adding any potting mix, soil or fertilizer . My reservation stems from the fact that leaf mold / compost are low in nitrogen even though these are nutrient rich. Your advice will be sincerely appreciated.
Mark, hope you are well. Each year my tomato plants give up the ghost about beginning of Sept.(except the cherry tomatoes that go till frost). I am in in zone 6b CT. This year I covered my plants with a shade cover the beginning of July. It is now 10-8 and many of my plants are still giving me produce, of course slower and less abundance. Liking this effect. This may be a cool experiment for you to do next spring. See if you find there is a difference. Thanks
Mark I'm enjoying results of using a large sunflower as a cover crop and follow it with a tomato starter works great and the easiest way for anyone any age and even sensors and many handicapped can do also less tools and needs less watering. Mark please make a special video catching attion to encourage this system so to get kids and most anyone involved in having tomatoes and peppers. Peppers too... I'm testing the system on several pepper plants and looking promising. Thanks for the advice SIR
I appreciate you greatly!! Even though this , is not tomatoe related, I have been meaning to ask you, if you are growing microgreens in a tray in greenhouse what medium do you recommend? Wishing you a very productive garden season.
Thanks for this. I really liked your start where you say your zone and location,, I have recently moved and learned about starting soil temps. This year in Central Nova Scotia we have had a very cool spring. The last two weeks have been down to 10 degrees or 50 F at night and only highs of 20 C or 70 F. I only have 8 Tomatoes in the garden where two days before planting I dug 2 foot holes and warmed the soil with warm water and to let the sun in I only use water from barrels as I think hose can be too cool for my situation. Too much shade is my main problem but my small garden allows this time investment. Hope your eye is better Tim
I've harveted about 30 Big Beef made Green Chile ( Mexican dish 😋) still have more to harvest and more flowers. This is only 1 crop of Tomatoes i sowed in March zone 9 Phx, AZ. I don't do much just water and fertilizered 3x from sowing to when it died. Always loaded of Tomatoes. No earth warm nor mulch. My Grapes Tomatoes super loaded. I think consistently in watering is the key plus fertilizered. And i never watered on its leaves ONLY bottom watered.
@glow1815 - what about your • pruning technique for the grape tomatoes that you’re growing? • how tall do your grape tomatoes grow? • what type of cherry tomatoes?
Spot on Mark... Carbon and Water... Good gas exchange in the soil and elevated CO2 from oxidizing carbon (mulch) to cycle the carbon is key for healthy plants and healthy soil.
I have a 35 acre organic farm. I can learn alot from this guy. My biggest issue is stopping weeds in the corn field, how do i grow large areas of corn organically without hand weeding? Any thoughts?
2 things. It takes years for all the weed seeds already there to sprout, so even if no new weeds go to seed it takes time. Good mulch layer will make easier to pull. Soft aerated soil under the mulch makes your job easier.
Put down black garden fabric before sowing corn and cover with leaf debris or some sort of hay or straw it will keep the weeds at bay for the most part I just put leafe mulch down and cover the soil with a black tarp a month before planting
I don't think you can really over water with the grow bags which is why I use those on my patio. There is continuous air flow through the bag so they seem to work really well but I must say I am a little concerned about the potting soil I bought this year.
I grown cherry tomatoes in an AeroGarden (hydroponics) with no root rot. Was unsuccessful to get fruit but the plant grow big and flowered. There's a RUclipsr that successfully grows Tiny Tom tomatoes in an AeroGarden.
I am new here :) Am I crazy or you planted those tomatoes directly into native soil? Without compost or anything? Only leaf mulch which over the years make your soil fertile enough for tomatoes?
Yes, just native soil. I do grow a cover crop ever other year in that spot. Soil Microbes do all the work. Is is nature at it best. All Plants take in CO2 and feed the soil liquid cardon from their roots. this feed the microbes which in turn feed the plant nutrients , simple
@@iamorganicgardening I just found out! I always had trouble understanding how much to water, in your show you explained soil breathing, I saw this in my garden last week, I learned about water retention, and permeability aka soil air exchange, still they didn’t explain the mechanics of permeability, idk why, maybe everybody can see this in the lecture but I didn’t get it, and after watering I saw a worm come up to the surface and I thought, oh, he needs a breath of air, then went back down and it dawned on me, watering or rain pushes the old air out and as it settles pulls the new air in, Now I understand and my garden is thriving, thanks for your show! I really like it!
Just want to add that I'd heard from another gardener that the reason you don't want to spray your leaves on your vegetable plants, tomatoes, is because it attracts insects that come for water on the leaves and they eat/infest the leaves. Not sure if it's accurate or not.
Great News, that is some what true, BUT more details it also bring the good insects like lady bugs & lace wings to eat the bad insects. Remember that every morning there are high humid droplets on the leaves also in not dry areas THANK YOU for sharing.
Allowing things to get too dry and then bombarding them with water will cause that. The idea is to keep an even level of moisture at all times, the plants will take what they need, but if they're too water-starved, they will take in too much at one time and you can get splitting.
@@mplslawnguy3389 in Mississippi we get +60” of rain. Keeping the soil that watered through the summer would be impossible on any kind of scale. You might be alright with a few plants, but any kind of volume you would be watering 24hrs a day.
Tomatoes need calcium and npk, as well as a ground mulch or cover crop and consistent watering practices. Topdress with compost when theyre flowering and it should all be faitly simple from there. Plant clean up is a must after about week 2, but shouldnt take more than a few minutes a week.
Calcium and NPK are needed in fake soil only ( potting mix.). Real Soil ( sand , silt and clay ) all over this world has plenty in it for may 1000 of years. I have never added compost or NPK or calcium whether chemical or organic to my 22 acre farm for the last 15 years. Other famers a well tht grow on hundred of acres. Just cover crops. It is all about soil microbes. Thanks
@@iamorganicgardening I'm referring to container grown containers, not huge fields. obviously, Native soil is king 👑 , I couldn't agree more. I still compost and use manure on the ground but I'm relatively small scale. Sorry I wasn't specific or didn't explain my point better . Most folks grow their tomatoes in raised beds or containers these days but you are correct 💯 Farmers have been growing tomatoes in plain old dirt for eons and doing just fine 👍
I believe adding lots of water like you just did is good to do occasionally to make the roots go deep but not every time. When mother nature waters the plants on earth, they dry out in between rainy days so let's imitate mother nature like you did dropping leaves around the plants.... no one fertilizes the trees in the forest yet see how big they grow just from leaves that fall. Worms like to eat decaying leaves then they poop and that fertilizes the forest.
The reason I suggest more watering is due to help prevent blossom end rot ( B.E.R lack of moisture/water which is the real reason why it happens. not calcium ) and also tomato cracking. That happens from lack of water then to much. Plus it keeps the microbes in the soil alive more and can move around better,
Perhaps my first day of disagreement with you Mark. Usually 100 percent with you and I'll still give thumbs up.. Here in Mid Ohio and perhaps the best gardener I've witnessed only water at planting time. He said let the plants learn to go deep and I've never seen him water in 3 seasons and had most common veggies I see growth in 3 days on most of my tomatoes and 6 plus inches on many tomatoes and I also want 60 plus degrees soil temperature before putting out
THANK YOU for your honestly. It is fantastic to disagree, we learn more from each other. If i Did not disagree with using chemical fertilizer and learning Organic. I would be spending thousand of dollars a year on that, now if all about soil health. Your gardener might have sandy loam soil so the roots can go deep with oxygen
You are still in my top 5 Gardening teacher Mark that is how I view your teachings I have garden in the old Jude family homestead in Kentucky of 6th generations of my Dad's family it's was sandstone and added generations of working the soil into a loamy good topsoil. I had 19 seasons in Iowa there's almost no stones just loamy black topsoil for 14 inches.Where they cut for roadwork unbelievable how deep their black soil is they have it easy. Ohio claybase I'm cutting rocks dulling my hoe dairy but after turning leaves and grass clippings and garden waste into it I can raise anything.With claybase we must work with drainage and I have in ground raised bed. You are great I'm reminding you our soils are never the same in any garden but amenities can get great results. Thanks for helping me and others
Sound advice on watering. Get it in the ground & soil covered soon. MASSIVE heat dome predicted to cover large portion of US. >>>The preeminent ECMWF weather model is forecasting a record-breaking ridge of high pressure in the Northeast U.S. later next week 💪 🟡 Called a "600 decameter ridge", these monstrous highs are a relatively rare summertime visitor to the central and western U.S. but have not been recorded over the Northeast U.S. - yet. Because air expands and rises as it warms, this ridge pumps higher up into the atmosphere. The height of the ridge is related to the temperature of the atmosphere. In this case, the height of the 500 hPa pressure level is forecast to reach 6 kilometers or 3.7 miles. ⏫ Described another way, the ridge is forecast to be about as tall as 16 Empire State Buildings stacked on top of one another! It remains to be seen just how hot it gets under this noteworthy ridge and if it indeed reaches 600 decameters, but 100+ degree temperatures appear possible for parts of the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic later next week...
@@t.k159 Sea Surface Temperatures of Northern Oceans (Atlantic & Pacific) were a record of >9 standard deviations above the 1951-1980 climatology in May. IOW 9 sigma. That kind of thing is unheard of. Hardly matters if you think "certain people" are behind it or the cause of it. It's a global calamity.
Last year one of my tomatoes fell in love with my watermelon vine. They had a very nice symbiotic relationship it seems. Those tomatoes put on more than I've ever seen out of any of my past tomato plants. I think it's because the watermelon was shading it somewhat. The watermelon vine produced way more melons than ever before. There were around 30 watermelons on that one vine. Those two plants reseeded themselves so I'm gonna let em grow together again and see what happens. More and more I've been gravitating towards landrace gardening
Thanks for sharing!
In Croatia they put Nets for shade over the tomato plant in summer.
Feed them with a tablespoon of wood ash in water when they knee-high.
@@monicali2608- How much water to the TBSP of wood ash?
Also, is this in addition to regular fertilizing?
@@doracotterell2863 Right it is an addition. Use one Tablespoon on one glass or if needed more water.
Good to know! Thanks 😊 I am fixing to plant both tomatoes and watermelon 🍉 I'm gonna try this. I think you're right about shading. Plant basil in there and it helps tomatoes from getting the horn worm.
I'm switching to growbags because, I've had issues with my raised beds. So, when I set up my growbag, despite all the advice of strictly potting soil for container gardening, I mix 50/50 garden soil (dirt) and promix potting soil. I just started this process this year. All my plants are looking great compared to years past. But ultimately, success will be measured in harvest. Jury is still out on this. I hope I find success because, last year was a lot of work with little reward. I also know all of these Garden videos sound great butt gardening zone makes a huge difference regarding advice and gardening
I've found that tomatoes do better just flat in the ground. I've wondered if being in a raised bed is too hot in the summer. But patio tomato like the Betalux determinate does great in pots.
@@matth8961
Composted wood chips + composted animal manure is the key to succeed
It was great witnessing the worm getting out of the chunk of ground, and then after we could see the hole they leave behind. Those holes are so important for so many reasons. Hurrah for worms!
You are so correct. Thanks
My property is the depository of our towns leaf cleanup in the fall. So each year I have it dumped in a new location and then plant after about 6 months changing the structure and fertility of our entire property.
Awesome, I do the same thing here on my 22 acre farm. Enjoy the power of nature. Thanks for sharing.
I've got one garden with no mulch and everything is dying after a couple dry hot weeks. My other garden is mulched 3 inches deep, plants are vibrant green and growing fast. That mulch really makes a difference especially in Summer. Use it if you got it
Glad you see this first hand, Thanks so very much for sharing.
If you don’t have it, get it. I use loads of different materials as a mulch. As long as you don’t dig it in you can even use shredded branches and leaves.
I use straw for mulch and it works well.
Someone that finally understands soil and soiless mixes... hallelujah
Great to hear. THANK YOU.
Just spent all morning planting my 🍅 plants 3' high already. Took out my winter.spring cherry tomatoes
Sounds great! Enjoy.
I'm a big fan of mulching, my old lady thinks I'm nuts for gathering the neighbors leaves. I tried to tell her that I am building our soil, protecting bug life, protecting the tomatoes roots from heat, retaining moisture and doing my part to provide a green future for the planet. That being said, I do have an issue with once a day watering. Yeah, around here NYC, we do get a couple of really hot, windy days. On such days I have watered more than EOD, heck sometimes twice a day! I have always felt that plants should get a big drink.... then let soil go on the crumbly side, .....then water to the point of saturation.... Then repeat! Am I wrong?
Grow strong tomatoes that can survive the heat and drought
In general better Let plants get thirsty so they grow deeper roots to search for water
Deeper roots means more nutrients from the soil
We all have to use our best judgement. It is your garden. Most tomatoes you buy are grown in rock wool in greenhouse They sit in water all day like hydroponics adding air to the water. That tomato is about 95% water.
I understand what you are trying to say. . The roots really bring very little water to the plant, The way tomatoes get most water by 80% and nutrients ( microbes ) is by mycorrhizal fungi. Next video
Zone 5b, Western, MA here. My tomatoes are in direct sun for 10 hours this season. Inherited another garden space. Tomatoes started to curl. This was a neglected/over used space. Treating it and will add mulch/compost/manure in the fall. Anyway... BURLAP saved that garden! The tomatoes and peppers are thriving in the heat of summer. Phew! I had grown pole beans, but they did not help in these areas. Hoping we are good to go. Been a couple of weeks and all are good. Peace
I'm in NJ too. What county are you in? I'm a massive proponent of leaves and leaf mould. I'd take a tandem load of leaves over a tandem load of mushroom compost every time. Let it sit for a year or two and you've got the true "black gold".
Awesome. Thanks
I have endless leave access in Illinois miles and miles of forestpreserves
Thanks!
I am honor, Let me know if I can help you at all. Thanks
I actually let the native grass from my walkways creep in under the tomato plants and grow in the shade under my market tomatoes. It doesn't seem to negatively affect them in growth or fruiting and leaves a soft landing for any wind blown ripe fruit. When I plant the tomatoes, I rake or pull the grass clumps easily back. And I let it grow and cover the ground the rest of the year when nothing else is growing. It is not a super aggressive grass like Bermuda ect..
THANK YOU for sharing how nature is working with you.
Do you have jumping worms? If you do how to get rid of them
Thank you, from Jersey as well
Thanks for watching!
I have a decent size backyard here in bay area, ca , but can't grow vegetables in the ground as the yard is full of very tall trees - Redwood, Ash etc and their roots have invaded all potential places in my backyard for growing vegetables .
But I do get lot of leaves every fall and have learnt the technique to make leaf mold from these leaves in just six months, by crushing the leaves and storing in black garbage bag in moist condition under shade.
Since I have switched to container gardening now using big 25 gallon pots, I am wondering if I could fill these pots with just pure leaf mold or 50:50 of leaf mold and compost and grow tomatoes etc in such pots without adding any potting mix, soil or fertilizer . My reservation stems from the fact that leaf mold / compost are low in nitrogen even though these are nutrient rich.
Your advice will be sincerely appreciated.
Yes, leaves are awesome. Use real soi; 50% and 50% leaves.
I did a video on this> ruclips.net/video/c-dWchZ5ch8/видео.html .
Mark, hope you are well. Each year my tomato plants give up the ghost about beginning of Sept.(except the cherry tomatoes that go till frost). I am in in zone 6b CT. This year I covered my plants with a shade cover the beginning of July. It is now 10-8 and many of my plants are still giving me produce, of course slower and less abundance. Liking this effect. This may be a cool experiment for you to do next spring. See if you find there is a difference. Thanks
Sounds great!
Mark I'm enjoying results of using a large sunflower as a cover crop and follow it with a tomato starter works great and the easiest way for anyone any age and even sensors and many handicapped can do also less tools and needs less watering.
Mark please make a special video catching attion to encourage this system so to get kids and most anyone involved in having tomatoes and peppers. Peppers too... I'm testing the system on several pepper plants and looking promising.
Thanks for the advice SIR
Awesome to hear , Thank You Kindly.
Excellent information 😊 thank you
Very kind to hear, Thank you.
I appreciate you greatly!! Even though this , is not tomatoe related, I have been meaning to ask you, if you are growing microgreens in a tray in greenhouse what medium do you recommend? Wishing you a very productive garden season.
Thanks for this. I really liked your start where you say your zone and location,, I have recently moved and learned about starting soil temps. This year in Central Nova Scotia we have had a very cool spring. The last two weeks have been down to 10 degrees or 50 F at night and only highs of 20 C or 70 F. I only have 8 Tomatoes in the garden where two days before planting I dug 2 foot holes and warmed the soil with warm water and to let the sun in I only use water from barrels as I think hose can be too cool for my situation. Too much shade is my main problem but my small garden allows this time investment. Hope your eye is better Tim
Sounds like a good plan. Hope it works. THANK YOU.
A lot of people don't realize that degradation of compost consumes nitrogen. So you have to add nitrogen to compensate.
Good information. Thanks
Great to hear. THANK YOU.
Thanks Mark…look forward to your next video!
Coming soon! Thanks
Thanks for the video. Sorry about the black eye. Be careful next time.
Thanks, I have to learn to slow down a little,
I've harveted about 30 Big Beef made Green Chile ( Mexican dish 😋) still have more to harvest and more flowers. This is only 1 crop of Tomatoes i sowed in March zone 9 Phx, AZ. I don't do much just water and fertilizered 3x from sowing to when it died. Always loaded of Tomatoes. No earth warm nor mulch. My Grapes Tomatoes super loaded. I think consistently in watering is the key plus fertilizered. And i never watered on its leaves ONLY bottom watered.
So GREAT to Hear. Thank You for sharing
@glow1815 - what about your • pruning technique for the grape tomatoes that you’re growing?
• how tall do your grape tomatoes grow?
• what type of cherry tomatoes?
Spot on Mark... Carbon and Water... Good gas exchange in the soil and elevated CO2 from oxidizing carbon (mulch) to cycle the carbon is key for healthy plants and healthy soil.
Thank you. , fully agree.
I have a 35 acre organic farm. I can learn alot from this guy. My biggest issue is stopping weeds in the corn field, how do i grow large areas of corn organically without hand weeding? Any thoughts?
2 things. It takes years for all the weed seeds already there to sprout, so even if no new weeds go to seed it takes time. Good mulch layer will make easier to pull. Soft aerated soil under the mulch makes your job easier.
Have you try growing with rye and then crimping it flat to the ground before planting seed
Put down black garden fabric before sowing corn and cover with leaf debris or some sort of hay or straw it will keep the weeds at bay for the most part I just put leafe mulch down and cover the soil with a black tarp a month before planting
I live in Jackson township. I will watch your videos because you are in my area and grow for a living. You know what works.
Thank You. Happy tomatoes harvest,
I don't think you can really over water with the grow bags which is why I use those on my patio. There is continuous air flow through the bag so they seem to work really well but I must say I am a little concerned about the potting soil I bought this year.
I fully understand. Thanks.
Thank you so much, yet again! I was just wondering how much to water this week with the extreme temps that are coming here in NE Pennsylvania.
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video! Thank you!
Thank You, that very kind of you.
Kudos for pushing through the head injury
Just a one man farm. have too. Thank You kindly.
I grown cherry tomatoes in an AeroGarden (hydroponics) with no root rot. Was unsuccessful to get fruit but the plant grow big and flowered. There's a RUclipsr that successfully grows Tiny Tom tomatoes in an AeroGarden.
I should have given more details about root rot in potting soil ( soilless mix.) it is the lack of Oxygen. Yes, plants grow in hydroponic. Thanks
Great advice, thank you.
My pleasure! THANK YOU.
I'd use leaf mulch in my gardening if it weren't such a slug factory. Also most of our fall leaves are European oak, which take forever to decompose.
Thank you very much.
Welcome 😊
I am new here :) Am I crazy or you planted those tomatoes directly into native soil? Without compost or anything? Only leaf mulch which over the years make your soil fertile enough for tomatoes?
Yes, just native soil. I do grow a cover crop ever other year in that spot. Soil Microbes do all the work. Is is nature at it best. All Plants take in CO2 and feed the soil liquid cardon from their roots. this feed the microbes which in turn feed the plant nutrients , simple
@@iamorganicgardening Very well done, I will give it a shot.
Immediately you gave me vital info! Zone and location. Instant credibility. Thanks. Now i will like and watch. Maybe subscribe. 🌱
Thank you for sharing. Happy gardening
I'm in jersey too!!:) south:) I ran out of leaves, what else do you recommend for mulch around the plants
See if your town has any composted leaf mulch. Ocean county has a big recycling center and Jackson gets trucks of composted leaves.
If leaves are not available from you town recycling center. You can buy straw ( certified from tractor supply, they will ship it to you, )
Thank´s Rocky !
Great answer. LOL.
Water doesn’t cause root rot, its water mixed with organic decomposing matter that creates sewer gases depleting the oxygen available to roots.
THANK YOU for sharing. That is a more detail answer..
@@iamorganicgardening I just found out! I always had trouble understanding how much to water, in your show you explained soil breathing, I saw this in my garden last week, I learned about water retention, and permeability aka soil air exchange, still they didn’t explain the mechanics of permeability, idk why, maybe everybody can see this in the lecture but I didn’t get it, and after watering I saw a worm come up to the surface and I thought, oh, he needs a breath of air, then went back down and it dawned on me, watering or rain pushes the old air out and as it settles pulls the new air in, Now I understand and my garden is thriving, thanks for your show! I really like it!
Soil temperature should not be higher than 85 degrees.
Below 60 degrees in the soil they don't grow.
Thank you.
It’s called water retention and permeability.
Thanks
You know it! Love your show!
thanks!
You bet! Here to help.
NJ Love
THANK YOU,
I always have curled leaves. ☹️
Just want to add that I'd heard from another gardener that the reason you don't want to spray your leaves on your vegetable plants, tomatoes, is because it attracts insects that come for water on the leaves and they eat/infest the leaves. Not sure if it's accurate or not.
Great News, that is some what true, BUT more details it also bring the good insects like lady bugs & lace wings to eat the bad insects. Remember that every morning there are high humid droplets on the leaves also in not dry areas THANK YOU for sharing.
Excessive watering on tomatoes can cause fruit to split though.
Allowing things to get too dry and then bombarding them with water will cause that. The idea is to keep an even level of moisture at all times, the plants will take what they need, but if they're too water-starved, they will take in too much at one time and you can get splitting.
@@mplslawnguy3389 in Mississippi we get +60” of rain. Keeping the soil that watered through the summer would be impossible on any kind of scale. You might be alright with a few plants, but any kind of volume you would be watering 24hrs a day.
Consistent watering thick mulching will stop. It's the drying out then watering excessively will cause the splits.
Do you water your tomatoes with cold water? Some people water their tomatoes only with warm water.
Cold water s fine, Being doing it for 50 years now.
@@iamorganicgardening thank you 😅
Tomatoes need calcium and npk, as well as a ground mulch or cover crop and consistent watering practices. Topdress with compost when theyre flowering and it should all be faitly simple from there. Plant clean up is a must after about week 2, but shouldnt take more than a few minutes a week.
Calcium and NPK are needed in fake soil only ( potting mix.). Real Soil ( sand , silt and clay ) all over this world has plenty in it for may 1000 of years. I have never added compost or NPK or calcium whether chemical or organic to my 22 acre farm for the last 15 years. Other famers a well tht grow on hundred of acres. Just cover crops. It is all about soil microbes. Thanks
@@iamorganicgardening I'm referring to container grown containers, not huge fields. obviously, Native soil is king 👑 , I couldn't agree more. I still compost and use manure on the ground but I'm relatively small scale. Sorry I wasn't specific or didn't explain my point better . Most folks grow their tomatoes in raised beds or containers these days but you are correct 💯
Farmers have been growing tomatoes in plain old dirt for eons and doing just fine 👍
I believe adding lots of water like you just did is good to do occasionally to make the roots go deep but not every time. When mother nature waters the plants on earth, they dry out in between rainy days so let's imitate mother nature like you did dropping leaves around the plants.... no one fertilizes the trees in the forest yet see how big they grow just from leaves that fall. Worms like to eat decaying leaves then they poop and that fertilizes the forest.
The reason I suggest more watering is due to help prevent blossom end rot ( B.E.R lack of moisture/water which is the real reason why it happens. not calcium ) and also tomato cracking. That happens from lack of water then to much. Plus it keeps the microbes in the soil alive more and can move around better,
Interesting that your soil took so much water but your plants were not yet looking stressed.
Never wait for them to be stress. Their health will decease.
My tomato plants need quite a bit of calcium also
❤
THANK YOU Kindly.
Perhaps my first day of disagreement with you Mark.
Usually 100 percent with you and I'll still give thumbs up.. Here in Mid Ohio and perhaps the best gardener I've witnessed only water at planting time.
He said let the plants learn to go deep and I've never seen him water in 3 seasons and had most common veggies
I see growth in 3 days on most of my tomatoes and 6 plus inches on many tomatoes and I also want 60 plus degrees soil temperature before putting out
THANK YOU for your honestly. It is fantastic to disagree, we learn more from each other. If i Did not disagree with using chemical fertilizer and learning Organic. I would be spending thousand of dollars a year on that, now if all about soil health. Your gardener might have sandy loam soil so the roots can go deep with oxygen
You are still in my top 5 Gardening teacher Mark that is how I view your teachings
I have garden in the old Jude family homestead in Kentucky of 6th generations of my Dad's family it's was sandstone and added generations of working the soil into a loamy good topsoil.
I had 19 seasons in Iowa there's almost no stones just loamy black topsoil for 14 inches.Where they cut for roadwork unbelievable how deep their black soil is they have it easy.
Ohio claybase I'm cutting rocks dulling my hoe dairy but after turning leaves and grass clippings and garden waste into it I can raise anything.With claybase we must work with drainage and I have in ground raised bed.
You are great I'm reminding you our soils are never the same in any garden but amenities can get great results.
Thanks for helping me and others
I never thought i would need that much water! My poor tomatoes must be super thirsty
Something to think about. Happy gardening
Never put c o l d water on nightshade plants .......
'Stupid should hurt'. Guess where I got that from.
You know it. Thanks
Sound advice on watering. Get it in the ground & soil covered soon. MASSIVE heat dome predicted to cover large portion of US.
>>>The preeminent ECMWF weather model is forecasting a record-breaking ridge of high pressure in the Northeast U.S. later next week 💪
🟡 Called a "600 decameter ridge", these monstrous highs are a relatively rare summertime visitor to the central and western U.S. but have not been recorded over the Northeast U.S. - yet.
Because air expands and rises as it warms, this ridge pumps higher up into the atmosphere. The height of the ridge is related to the temperature of the atmosphere. In this case, the height of the 500 hPa pressure level is forecast to reach 6 kilometers or 3.7 miles.
⏫ Described another way, the ridge is forecast to be about as tall as 16 Empire State Buildings stacked on top of one another!
It remains to be seen just how hot it gets under this noteworthy ridge and if it indeed reaches 600 decameters, but 100+ degree temperatures appear possible for parts of the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic later next week...
WOW. great information, Thanks
Do you think that it has anything to do with certain people messing with Mother Nature?
@@t.k159 Sea Surface Temperatures of Northern Oceans (Atlantic & Pacific) were a record of >9 standard deviations above the 1951-1980 climatology in May.
IOW 9 sigma. That kind of thing is unheard of.
Hardly matters if you think "certain people" are behind it or the cause of it. It's a global calamity.
@@flatsville9343 true but if they screwed it up then maybe they can fix it? 🤔
@@t.k159 They who? Fix how?
Regardless...If there were a Gallactic Trading Exchange, I would buy long dated puts on this planet.