First time viewer, having read and seen your comments and name on other channels and at Ben Scott's recommendation, I thought I would have a look. As to the handles, leave a little meat and thin to your own liking. As to un-hung heads that would be a great option.. The one-size fits most does not work for me always being on the large size when it comes to humans...As to my opinion of your review and video quality it was beautiful, voice over and editing was nicely done. Lots of good footage and stills of the axe. Sharing of your beautiful woodlands and camping and fire practices well done. As to sparing me to boring footage, to the true axe connoisseur and enthusiast there is no boring footage. Leave out the girl talk and pipe-smoking, that stuff will kill you, nicely done Sir.
Thanks for checking out my channel. If you like what you see p,ease considering subscribing. It means a lot to us small timers. And thanks for appreciating the work I put into the edit. And yes, I too could watch long clips of chopping, but not everyone is as crazy as us. Lol. Thanks again!
Long comment below... Where I live, majority of the elms and other ulmaceae members are close to the density or hardness of red maple. However, there is one that is insanely hard, often times harder or denser than some specific hickory trees. We have plenty of hickory and plenty of elm, so I've tested chopping on both live and dead examples. The winged elm (Ulmus alata) is probably the hardest tree I've ever put an axe in. Off the top of my head, I think the density is .82-.84 grams/cubic centimeter. Technically that doesnt tell you how hard it is, but is a good indicator. To get to my point, considering you werent standing on the log, and the elm was fairly large in some of your cuts, it appears to be a good bucker. Even with one hand you were able to release it easily and you didnt have to pry on it which shows that it isnt too thin overall and has a good chip throwing profile. If you could get your hands on some white pine, I'd be curious to see how well it can release from a much softer species relative to the amount of penetration.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, especially about Elm. I’ve been curious about this species for awhile. Growing up my grandad always told me Elm made terrible firewood. “Too soft, too wet, too hard to split” was basically what I was told, so I never bothered with it. But I have recently and while it’s not super hard like some of the red oak I’ve cut off my place, it’s not soft either. In fact I’d compare it to certain species of Maple. It does seem to hold water longer, but once it dries it seems to coal up just fine. As to your observation about release, I didn’t mention it much but that’s one thing this axe has going for it. It releases really easily. I don’t have any pine on my property, so I’ve never had the privilege of chopping any, but man would I love to. If I ever get the chance, I’ll make sure I do your test. Thanks again.
Now rewatching this, I really like Lamacas but I dont think I would buy one soon. Just got my GB felling axe, and I could try it last weekend. I never thought it would bite so well. Of course, thinning is required because my hands hurt, but I think they maybe thinned the profile a little bit. It’s one of the best axes for locust that I’ve tried.
I wouldn’t recommend this one if you’re cutting green wood. Does seem to work well on Kurt’s Aussie hardwoods, though. I’m eager to set up Lamaca’s version of the Scandi Forest Axe, which I traded in part to Owen for the Work Axe. I will definitely splurge and get the GB felling axe one day. Good to hear you like it.
I have a council woodcraft axe and I have been searching for some kind of material to thicken my handle for 3 yrs. Haven't pulled the trigger on anything. Your point on buying just the head was interesting although I don't hang axes. Nice looking axe yours. Good vid.
If you just want to thicken the axe in certain areas, you can try laminating pieces of wood onto the handle where you want them and then rasping and sanding them to fit your hand. Essentially just glue blocks of wood where you want to thicken the handle in the rough shape that you want them. You’ll want to remove the oil where you’re going to glue it, rough it up with 80 grit sand paper, remove dust, and if you’re brave you can add a biscuit or a few pins to add strength. If you have a few gaps after you’ve shaped the wood, fill them in with wood filler or Bondo and sand again. I’ll be doing a video on this soon, adding a palm swell to a handle I’ve cut shorter. It won’t look like new, but it will feel better. Also, if you use axes at all regularly and have access to some basic hand tools, you really should try hanging your own axe.
I agree, send it unhung and bout council tool thin is perfect for anyone who just wants to use it and close enough for us that still reshape them anyway.
Good to see the work axe in action. I like the idea of buying just a head or an un-hung kit, especially on a high-end axe like this, but with a standard axe I reckon it's better to have an oiled, thicker handle. Some companies definitely take the club type handles too far though.
I have minimal room to fall trees and manage the larger hang ups with a 2004 Wrangler and 30,000# recovery strap 😉. The axe looks like a performer. I agree about selling it as a "kit" with a thicker or medium thick handle.
Hi Kevin!!😀😀 It would be nice if you could order the axe either way. With or without it hung. There are a lot of people that don't hang handles and they need to be able to get them ready to go. You and I would probably prefer to be able to get them separately. It really looks like it is one heck of a good cutting axe. Some people need to have a thicker handle just so they don't break them while they are learning how to use them. That's my thought. Had a good time over on Killingers live feed tonight!!😀😀 Was good to see you there!!😀😀 Take care my friend!!😀😀👍👍 Logger Al
Agreed, both ways would be ideal. As for the handles, I heard Lane say he broke 8 handles in the process of testing this axe, so I think they were originally running it on their usual slim handles. Killer seems like a down-to-earth guy. And I love his handles!
Been waiting on a use video on this axe. I can't wait to get mine. Like others have said I'd rather someone send my axe too me thick so I can tune it how I like. If it's pre thinned and sent to you it better be exactly how you like it otherwise you're screwed. Thick is better.
I don't but any "complete" axes anymore. Not for some years. Buying as just a head would make buying something new interesting. Either way I'm happy with my vintage restores.
I totally understand why. More than half the time the head comes loose within days of using it. But while I love vintage axes, there are many interesting heads being made today that I’d love to buy unhung.
Thanks, it’s a beautiful axe. I actually traded it though for a couple of custom axes, but included in that trade was Lamacas version of the Scandinavian forest axe!
I went out again without the camera and took the vintage CT on your French Curve handle along with the Lamaca, and I kept thinking “Man, what an axe this would be on that handle.” #ButterFirst
I like the idea of buying unhung axe heads with unfinished handles. Not only does it give you the ability to customize the finish and shape, but also gives the potential to offer handles in different styles and lengths. People who buy axes like this come in all sizes and shapes, but they are all enthusiasts who all have differing opinions on exactly how an axe should be set up.
That would be awesome to buy an axe unhung. I don't have a problem with thinning handles. I'd rather have a thick handle that I can shape myself. It's pretty much the same as buying an axe I can hang myself. I would like to control the variables. I also like a mostly flat handle with a little bit more rounding near the bottom hand. Great videos. I just got led here from Ben Scott. I think in general customizing axes is a niche market that manufactures don't care much about. I've thought about selling full axe hanging kits to get people started but I don't know if there's a market for that.
Welcome to the channel. I feel the same about the variables, specifically the hang. I would certainly buy unhung axe packages, but surprisingly there are a lot of people who own axes but don’t know how to hand them or don’t want to. Sad really. It’s part of the fun.
@@KevinsDisobedience Shaping the handle to your hands. Setting a primary bevel angle for your desired task(s). These things are probably best left to the user of the axe. It is sad. For me I think the funnest part is testing them to see how you've done in these respects. I just hung an axe with a different shape pommel than normal and it got uncomfortable quickly. I find your preference to be very interesting. Makes me wonder how universal the shaping of my handles are.
In keeping with the axe arena competitions from which this axe was born, I have to ask, who wins in an axe shootout...the Lamaca or your 4 lbs Council Tool on the 26 inch Killinger handle ?
The CT. Mostly because the handle is shorter (which I’m more accurate with) and the bit is a little fatter behind the keen edge, so it busts the chips out better, but the Lamaca is a better limber. 4lbs is way too heavy to limb with, so is 3.5 really. I’d love the Lamaca more if it was .5lbs lighter, tbf.
Mmm...my grandad always said “too soft, too wet, too hard to split”, so I never really saw it as a viable fuel source, but I’ve been methodically working my way through preconceived conceptions and experimenting for myself.
Thanks for the Sub, Clinton! If we get to 500 by the end of the year, I’ll do another axe giveaway. I’m 35. I remember the commercial from the early 90s. I didn’t even think about that being dated. Lol
LMFAO! When I was editing this, I thought to myself I should probably quit with the girl metaphors before I get canceled before I even get started. Lol
Rooster explained to me once, on behalf of Council Tool, that shipping heads without handle is not possible anymore due to liabilities that come with it; too risky getting sued for a bad hang done by a buyer claiming poor instructions I guess. Not sure if this is only a US thing. Somehow I feel worse thinning down a properly oiled handle than a laquered one. The Ochsenkopf handles are just asking for it. The laquer seems more a wrap to deal with risk of dirt between manufacuring of the handle and the final hang. Butter only, no jelly.
If that’s true, and I don’t doubt that it is, that’s so lame. In so many ways the advent of modern law has ruined us. And yes, I felt terrible taking a Shinto to this gorgeous handle.
@@KevinsDisobedience CT in Nov 2018: “We get requests or "strong suggestions" to sell loose heads to the public quite frequently. Unfortunately for liability reasons and brand protection, we do not sell loose heads.” Better a Shinto than a handgrinder
No experience with Elm but I know the Maple we have here (which is planted, not natural) is very fibrous and actually can be more of a pain to split than even willow. This axe still makes me think race axe, not work axe. Still a work of art. Yes, send me my axes unhung. Then I can do it the way I like it. Leave the hafts heavy so we can customize them or most people will cause issues. Oh, always butter first! Maybe lard if you are in an actual winter......🤚.
Sorry man, YT didn’t notify me of your comment. They usually don’t after the first week or two. Anyway, I actually traded this axe after awhile for that exact reason. It’s not a work axe. Not a race axe either. It basically excels at felling larger trees and limbing larger branches. I’d say that’s about it. It is, however, very pretty.
I would prefer if axe makers gave us the option to purchase the head, handle blanks, finished handles, and various wedges separately. It'd be interesting to see how many buyers would pay extra to have the axe hung by the maker; I certainly would not. I wonder how much Lamaca could sell just the head for. I think I would like that axe if it had another pound of steel in the cheeks, raise up that centerline.
That would be ideal for me. I think we’d both be surprised at how many people use axes (or buy them) and have never hung one in their lives. It seems a necessary skill if you’re going to use them, same as sharpening, but it’s not as common as you might think. As for the extra weight, I’d rather they drop it from 3.48 to 3.2. It’s already a pretty heavy axe for a “work axe”, something you’re going to use everyday, and I’m still not convinced that a high centerline makes much of a difference in practice. In theory yes, just like straight bits (which I’m partial too), but in the woods it jus5 doesn’t seem to matter much (or at all).
@@KevinsDisobedience I think maybe I have the wrong terminology; wouldn't a higher centerline mean a thicker grind? Imagine an extra half pound of steel on both cheeks, creating a ~20 degree angle wedge at the centerline that tapers off toward the toe and heel. That's what I tried to convey, and I think that would make a big difference. We're all different, so it makes sense we would prefer different axe weights; and for me, a four and a quarter pound head is a good weight to work with. I feel like I use about the same energy with light or heavy axes, since they require different swings to cut effectively. A light axe needs more of an explosive whip swing, and the heavier axes need less of a swing. I like big axes. I can't tolerate such a thin axe. I bet your little Basque axe is thicker in the cheeks than the Lamaca.
No, you got the term right. I’m still trying to sort out what matters and what doesn’t. Sometime I think I’ve figured something out and it turns out it was just the wood not the axe.
@@KevinsDisobedience You should get a husqvarna A2400, I'd be very interested to hear your opinions of it. It has about a 20 degree flat chisel grind, and all you'd have to do is put a micro bevel on it. The geometry is so simple, but I think it performs really well, which is kind of surprising. I live in north western Pennsylvania, and it has worked good in all the wood I've found.
I just looked at it closely for the first time, and it actually has about a 19 degree grind with a slight hollow, and then maybe a 25 degree quarter inch bevel. I was just assuming it was flat, because I'm stupid. And the teflon coating is worn off about an inch and three quarters back, so that's probably a good indication of how deep it cuts, since I mostly chop with it.
Give it a couple weeks of use and allow yourself to adapt to swinging something heavy. You'll find your bucking technique changes a bit after a while if you're using heavier axes more often. I was tempted to get one to try out but I rather doubt it after seeing yours and others videos on it.
I have a 4lb vintage CT and a 3.5pd HB, but that’s it in heavy choppers. I have two 4lb splitters, too. But yeah it’ll take some getting used to. I do wish you were closer. I send it over to you. I’d love to know what you think about it, given your experience with heavy heads.
@@KevinsDisobedience I mean I'd be willing to cover postage 🤷♂️ just had a huge willow come down in the high winds at home. Ideal wood for it. If you haven't seen it already, ben did a good video on chopping tips that really helped me when using heavier axes. Mostly its foot placement and practicing to fully extend your arms above your head and other little bits but it really was helpful. Vid suggestion, make your own version of the lamaca work axe with a vintage jersey and hang/grind it to your preferences within similar parameters to the lamaca and see which does better.
If your serious about postage, I’d be glad to send it over. I won’t do anything else to it. Keep it for awhile and let me know what you think. DM me on Facebook if you want to send me your address. I’ll look for Bens video. I was attempting to fully extend the axe yesterday when I went out without camera. Have to get used to it thought. It throws my accuracy off some. I have a few other vintage builds in line first, but I will definitely give that a shot. I’ve never tried grinding out phantom bevels. Can’t imagine it’s difficult though.
I wish I had the money to buy one of these 😿 May have to sell an axe 😈 This was a great video. I would definitely like to see a follow up after using it some more. I’d like to know if those phantom bevels are actually making a notable difference. Also i was expecting you to speak more on the void that it fills (weight and all that jazz). I feel like the handle took priority over more important subjects like: balance when felling and limbing, weight, freedom in the wood, and so on. We’re not really buying it for the handle. But to answer your question I would prefer they ship without a handle. Having said all that I understand this was more a first impressions video. Anyway, fantastic effort Kev. It was really helpful footage for discerning buyers.
Yeah, I realized after I shot it that I didn’t even talk about what it’s main competitors are, which I see as the Basque Racer, GB American Felling Axe, and perhaps Oxheads Work Axe. I think it’s too early for me to decide if it’s worth the money. For sure I could make any axe cut as good, so a lot of it is down to aesthetics and supporting a small company. Anyway, I actually shipped it off to Owen and Ben to test out for awhile. Get some guys who have used heavier axes more than I have to tell us what they think. So maybe look for them to put out a video soon.
Update: I’m sure you know by now, but after using it some more I decided it was too heavy and a little too long of a handle for an everyday work axe for me, so I sent it to Owen and we’re working out a trade. I think he wanted to hate it but really likes it now, so I’m going to let him keep it. He’ll use it more and can give the community better feed back than me. Tbh the balance is a little wonky; its that long beard, rolls a little too easy when felling. In short, I just found it wasn’t really a great “work axe”-that is to say, all rounder. It excels at bucking and is a fantastic limber but a little too heavy for most smaller limbs. It’ll do all tasks just fine, but I think it’s really a bucking machine for big, soft wood-exactly what Owen cuts. He complains it’s a little sticky at times, but hasn’t decided if it’s the wood he’s cutting or the axe. It is gorgeous though-no arguments there. Just rewatching this vid makes me miss it.
Disappointing that the handle is too thick for the money, definitely want more than just a little flex. Kinda pointless really that axe makers spend so much time finishing the handle with oils just to have to remove that, its extra cost. They should leave it plain because everybody remotely experienced will want to adjust a handle anyway. Head looks good though, seems to chop good. Small edge damage isn't a problem in my experience, you can see small lines in the wood after a cut from it but some of the timbersport guys train with axes with massive chips and dings in them and they still cut very deep. Overall I think it looks like a good axe but quite a lot more expensive than a Basque racer which I think would out cut it. Maybe that would be a good one to try next if you get the chance. Absolutely would prefer axes shipped unhung. I find cheap axes with thick axes fine, id rather extra meat to carve down to the perfect shape that suits me, council tool is a decent size but I actually like ochsenkopf more. Sure its thicker but Ive been able to make them really nice
Thanks for commenting, Ben. Yes it is disappointing, but it was too stiff out of the box. I’m actually surprised given what I could see from their smaller axes-the handles looked nice and thin. As you said, I wish manufactures would just leave them bare. The head and hang are fine. I’ve seen micro damage on a few of my axes at sub-20 and I’ve noticed no difference at all, so my experience is the same as far as it affecting performance. I’d rather have it at that acute angle and take minor damage than run it at a steeper grind. I guess the three main competitors for this axe are GB Felling Axe, Basque Racer, Oxhead’s Work Axe. I should have mention that in the video. I will have to try Basque’s Racer. The handle looks nice on those. You have any thoughts on Elm as a fuel source?
They really are, aren’t they. A friend of mine sells cordwood. You should hear some of the questions he gets now that people are on the internet and burning wood is in vogue again. We both think it’s funny when someone asks what the Janka hardness is of a particular wood. I always just shrug and suggest the furnace doesn’t care, and neither will you when your family is cold this winter.
Yeah - I agree - a bit more meat on the new handle is better. That way we can create our own shape that we prefer. Shipped hung is fine by me as long as they are hung better than STIHL axes! 🤣
As I said last night during your livestream, I am amazed you can get us handles of that quality at that cost. When do you think you’ll have the next batch. I need a small eye for a 1934 Brades on something 25-28”.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I tend to think that you can’t put the wood back on , so send it thick and shape it to your liking, great video again Kevin .
As I've said before I'll have to get one of those lamacas.
I’d like to have a play with their cruiser. Looks fun and whipy!
First time viewer, having read and seen your comments and name on other channels and at Ben Scott's recommendation, I thought I would have a look. As to the handles, leave a little meat and thin to your own liking. As to un-hung heads that would be a great option.. The one-size fits most does not work for me always being on the large size when it comes to humans...As to my opinion of your review and video quality it was beautiful, voice over and editing was nicely done. Lots of good footage and stills of the axe. Sharing of your beautiful woodlands and camping and fire practices well done. As to sparing me to boring footage, to the true axe connoisseur and enthusiast there is no boring footage. Leave out the girl talk and pipe-smoking, that stuff will kill you, nicely done Sir.
Thanks for checking out my channel. If you like what you see p,ease considering subscribing. It means a lot to us small timers. And thanks for appreciating the work I put into the edit. And yes, I too could watch long clips of chopping, but not everyone is as crazy as us. Lol. Thanks again!
@@KevinsDisobedience I read a man reaps what he sows. (Galations 6:7)
I have sown a subscription.
Thanks brother. I’ll make sure I keep earning it.
Long comment below...
Where I live, majority of the elms and other ulmaceae members are close to the density or hardness of red maple. However, there is one that is insanely hard, often times harder or denser than some specific hickory trees. We have plenty of hickory and plenty of elm, so I've tested chopping on both live and dead examples. The winged elm (Ulmus alata) is probably the hardest tree I've ever put an axe in. Off the top of my head, I think the density is .82-.84 grams/cubic centimeter. Technically that doesnt tell you how hard it is, but is a good indicator.
To get to my point, considering you werent standing on the log, and the elm was fairly large in some of your cuts, it appears to be a good bucker. Even with one hand you were able to release it easily and you didnt have to pry on it which shows that it isnt too thin overall and has a good chip throwing profile. If you could get your hands on some white pine, I'd be curious to see how well it can release from a much softer species relative to the amount of penetration.
Thanks for taking the time to comment, especially about Elm. I’ve been curious about this species for awhile. Growing up my grandad always told me Elm made terrible firewood. “Too soft, too wet, too hard to split” was basically what I was told, so I never bothered with it. But I have recently and while it’s not super hard like some of the red oak I’ve cut off my place, it’s not soft either. In fact I’d compare it to certain species of Maple. It does seem to hold water longer, but once it dries it seems to coal up just fine.
As to your observation about release, I didn’t mention it much but that’s one thing this axe has going for it. It releases really easily. I don’t have any pine on my property, so I’ve never had the privilege of chopping any, but man would I love to. If I ever get the chance, I’ll make sure I do your test. Thanks again.
Now rewatching this, I really like Lamacas but I dont think I would buy one soon. Just got my GB felling axe, and I could try it last weekend. I never thought it would bite so well. Of course, thinning is required because my hands hurt, but I think they maybe thinned the profile a little bit. It’s one of the best axes for locust that I’ve tried.
I wouldn’t recommend this one if you’re cutting green wood. Does seem to work well on Kurt’s Aussie hardwoods, though. I’m eager to set up Lamaca’s version of the Scandi Forest Axe, which I traded in part to Owen for the Work Axe. I will definitely splurge and get the GB felling axe one day. Good to hear you like it.
I have a council woodcraft axe and I have been searching for some kind of material to thicken my handle for 3 yrs. Haven't pulled the trigger on anything. Your point on buying just the head was interesting although I don't hang axes. Nice looking axe yours. Good vid.
If you just want to thicken the axe in certain areas, you can try laminating pieces of wood onto the handle where you want them and then rasping and sanding them to fit your hand. Essentially just glue blocks of wood where you want to thicken the handle in the rough shape that you want them. You’ll want to remove the oil where you’re going to glue it, rough it up with 80 grit sand paper, remove dust, and if you’re brave you can add a biscuit or a few pins to add strength. If you have a few gaps after you’ve shaped the wood, fill them in with wood filler or Bondo and sand again. I’ll be doing a video on this soon, adding a palm swell to a handle I’ve cut shorter. It won’t look like new, but it will feel better. Also, if you use axes at all regularly and have access to some basic hand tools, you really should try hanging your own axe.
I think this is my new dream axe. Hmmm🤔
It’s really nice, but I wouldn’t get it again. In fact I already traded it to Owen. He likes it though.
I agree, send it unhung and bout council tool thin is perfect for anyone who just wants to use it and close enough for us that still reshape them anyway.
Apparently Prandi will send you an unhung axe with the handle. I wish ct would give us that option.
Good to see the work axe in action. I like the idea of buying just a head or an un-hung kit, especially on a high-end axe like this, but with a standard axe I reckon it's better to have an oiled, thicker handle. Some companies definitely take the club type handles too far though.
I pretty much agree. I mean the axes coming out of Germany are friggin ridiculous. Thanks for commenting.
I have minimal room to fall trees and manage the larger hang ups with a 2004 Wrangler and 30,000# recovery strap 😉. The axe looks like a performer. I agree about selling it as a "kit" with a thicker or medium thick handle.
A vehicle is definitely the easiest way to remove hang ups.
Hi Kevin!!😀😀
It would be nice if you could order the axe either way. With or without it hung. There are a lot of people that don't hang handles and they need to be able to get them ready to go. You and I would probably prefer to be able to get them separately. It really looks like it is one heck of a good cutting axe. Some people need to have a thicker handle just so they don't break them while they are learning how to use them. That's my thought.
Had a good time over on Killingers live feed tonight!!😀😀
Was good to see you there!!😀😀
Take care my friend!!😀😀👍👍
Logger Al
Agreed, both ways would be ideal. As for the handles, I heard Lane say he broke 8 handles in the process of testing this axe, so I think they were originally running it on their usual slim handles. Killer seems like a down-to-earth guy. And I love his handles!
@@KevinsDisobedience Chris is a super guy and a good friend!!
I really love the handles he gets also.
They’re definitely the best I’ve seen from anyone.
Been waiting on a use video on this axe. I can't wait to get mine. Like others have said I'd rather someone send my axe too me thick so I can tune it how I like. If it's pre thinned and sent to you it better be exactly how you like it otherwise you're screwed. Thick is better.
Let me know what you think about the axe when you get it. I can’t seem to find anyone else online using one.
I don't but any "complete" axes anymore. Not for some years. Buying as just a head would make buying something new interesting. Either way I'm happy with my vintage restores.
I totally understand why. More than half the time the head comes loose within days of using it. But while I love vintage axes, there are many interesting heads being made today that I’d love to buy unhung.
Lamaca is the best axe!
Elm is hard to cut and split, no doubt ! Looks like a really nice axe.
Thanks, it’s a beautiful axe. I actually traded it though for a couple of custom axes, but included in that trade was Lamacas version of the Scandinavian forest axe!
Great video, I just ordered a work axe
Sorry missed your comment somehow. How do you like it?
That's a very nice axe
Definitely the prettiest axe I’ve owned.
Wouldn't mind having one of those. Hung on a Killinger of course. 😉
Butter first...
I went out again without the camera and took the vintage CT on your French Curve handle along with the Lamaca, and I kept thinking “Man, what an axe this would be on that handle.”
#ButterFirst
I like the idea of buying unhung axe heads with unfinished handles. Not only does it give you the ability to customize the finish and shape, but also gives the potential to offer handles in different styles and lengths. People who buy axes like this come in all sizes and shapes, but they are all enthusiasts who all have differing opinions on exactly how an axe should be set up.
Agreed. The more I do this the more I think the ideal axe is more about preference than a list a said characteristics, especially handle shape.
That would be awesome to buy an axe unhung. I don't have a problem with thinning handles. I'd rather have a thick handle that I can shape myself. It's pretty much the same as buying an axe I can hang myself. I would like to control the variables.
I also like a mostly flat handle with a little bit more rounding near the bottom hand. Great videos. I just got led here from Ben Scott. I think in general customizing axes is a niche market that manufactures don't care much about. I've thought about selling full axe hanging kits to get people started but I don't know if there's a market for that.
Welcome to the channel. I feel the same about the variables, specifically the hang. I would certainly buy unhung axe packages, but surprisingly there are a lot of people who own axes but don’t know how to hand them or don’t want to. Sad really. It’s part of the fun.
@@KevinsDisobedience Shaping the handle to your hands. Setting a primary bevel angle for your desired task(s). These things are probably best left to the user of the axe. It is sad. For me I think the funnest part is testing them to see how you've done in these respects.
I just hung an axe with a different shape pommel than normal and it got uncomfortable quickly. I find your preference to be very interesting. Makes me wonder how universal the shaping of my handles are.
If you look at old photographs of lumberjacks, they’re handles don’t look that similar in shape. I bet everyone had a certain preference.
In keeping with the axe arena competitions from which this axe was born, I have to ask, who wins in an axe shootout...the Lamaca or your 4 lbs Council Tool on the 26 inch Killinger handle ?
The CT. Mostly because the handle is shorter (which I’m more accurate with) and the bit is a little fatter behind the keen edge, so it busts the chips out better, but the Lamaca is a better limber. 4lbs is way too heavy to limb with, so is 3.5 really. I’d love the Lamaca more if it was .5lbs lighter, tbf.
Me exsperiance here with elm has been, the bigger the log, the easier it is to split. The little ones are tough!
Mmm...my grandad always said “too soft, too wet, too hard to split”, so I never really saw it as a viable fuel source, but I’ve been methodically working my way through preconceived conceptions and experimenting for myself.
Просто офігіваю від таких сокир з таким топорищем. Не висоти таке тонке робити, для міцності вимагає більше "тіла".
I’m sorry but I can’t read Russian.
1. How are you old enough to remember the Tootsie-Pop owl? Thanks, I'm still grinning from the reference!
2. Butter first!
Thanks for the Sub, Clinton! If we get to 500 by the end of the year, I’ll do another axe giveaway. I’m 35. I remember the commercial from the early 90s. I didn’t even think about that being dated. Lol
Everyone in the room just stopped and looked at me! He’s talking about an axe! Not an actual girl 😂
LMFAO! When I was editing this, I thought to myself I should probably quit with the girl metaphors before I get canceled before I even get started. Lol
Clean lil notch on that face cut
Rooster explained to me once, on behalf of Council Tool, that shipping heads without handle is not possible anymore due to liabilities that come with it; too risky getting sued for a bad hang done by a buyer claiming poor instructions I guess. Not sure if this is only a US thing.
Somehow I feel worse thinning down a properly oiled handle than a laquered one. The Ochsenkopf handles are just asking for it. The laquer seems more a wrap to deal with risk of dirt between manufacuring of the handle and the final hang.
Butter only, no jelly.
If that’s true, and I don’t doubt that it is, that’s so lame. In so many ways the advent of modern law has ruined us. And yes, I felt terrible taking a Shinto to this gorgeous handle.
@@KevinsDisobedience CT in Nov 2018: “We get requests or "strong suggestions" to sell loose heads to the public quite frequently. Unfortunately for liability reasons and brand protection, we do not sell loose heads.”
Better a Shinto than a handgrinder
@@nilsv461 dont diss the angle grinder 😂
@@elemental4rce saw that one coming 😂
Great grinding skills, but like your chopping even better
That’s too bad. I just can’t imagine how an axe company would be liable for anything we do with the head after we bought it.
Nice video. Nothing like swinging a new axe for the first time. How long is the handle?
29.5” or about 75cm. I’d rather have it a little shorter, but at least the6 didn’t go with the standard 32” handle which I find too long and awkward.
No experience with Elm but I know the Maple we have here (which is planted, not natural) is very fibrous and actually can be more of a pain to split than even willow. This axe still makes me think race axe, not work axe. Still a work of art.
Yes, send me my axes unhung. Then I can do it the way I like it.
Leave the hafts heavy so we can customize them or most people will cause issues.
Oh, always butter first! Maybe lard if you are in an actual winter......🤚.
Sorry man, YT didn’t notify me of your comment. They usually don’t after the first week or two. Anyway, I actually traded this axe after awhile for that exact reason. It’s not a work axe. Not a race axe either. It basically excels at felling larger trees and limbing larger branches. I’d say that’s about it. It is, however, very pretty.
Definitely shipped UNHUNG
Agreed
I would prefer if axe makers gave us the option to purchase the head, handle blanks, finished handles, and various wedges separately. It'd be interesting to see how many buyers would pay extra to have the axe hung by the maker; I certainly would not. I wonder how much Lamaca could sell just the head for.
I think I would like that axe if it had another pound of steel in the cheeks, raise up that centerline.
That would be ideal for me. I think we’d both be surprised at how many people use axes (or buy them) and have never hung one in their lives. It seems a necessary skill if you’re going to use them, same as sharpening, but it’s not as common as you might think. As for the extra weight, I’d rather they drop it from 3.48 to 3.2. It’s already a pretty heavy axe for a “work axe”, something you’re going to use everyday, and I’m still not convinced that a high centerline makes much of a difference in practice. In theory yes, just like straight bits (which I’m partial too), but in the woods it jus5 doesn’t seem to matter much (or at all).
@@KevinsDisobedience I think maybe I have the wrong terminology; wouldn't a higher centerline mean a thicker grind? Imagine an extra half pound of steel on both cheeks, creating a ~20 degree angle wedge at the centerline that tapers off toward the toe and heel. That's what I tried to convey, and I think that would make a big difference.
We're all different, so it makes sense we would prefer different axe weights; and for me, a four and a quarter pound head is a good weight to work with. I feel like I use about the same energy with light or heavy axes, since they require different swings to cut effectively. A light axe needs more of an explosive whip swing, and the heavier axes need less of a swing. I like big axes.
I can't tolerate such a thin axe. I bet your little Basque axe is thicker in the cheeks than the Lamaca.
No, you got the term right. I’m still trying to sort out what matters and what doesn’t. Sometime I think I’ve figured something out and it turns out it was just the wood not the axe.
@@KevinsDisobedience You should get a husqvarna A2400, I'd be very interested to hear your opinions of it. It has about a 20 degree flat chisel grind, and all you'd have to do is put a micro bevel on it. The geometry is so simple, but I think it performs really well, which is kind of surprising. I live in north western Pennsylvania, and it has worked good in all the wood I've found.
I just looked at it closely for the first time, and it actually has about a 19 degree grind with a slight hollow, and then maybe a 25 degree quarter inch bevel. I was just assuming it was flat, because I'm stupid. And the teflon coating is worn off about an inch and three quarters back, so that's probably a good indication of how deep it cuts, since I mostly chop with it.
Give it a couple weeks of use and allow yourself to adapt to swinging something heavy. You'll find your bucking technique changes a bit after a while if you're using heavier axes more often.
I was tempted to get one to try out but I rather doubt it after seeing yours and others videos on it.
I have a 4lb vintage CT and a 3.5pd HB, but that’s it in heavy choppers. I have two 4lb splitters, too. But yeah it’ll take some getting used to. I do wish you were closer. I send it over to you. I’d love to know what you think about it, given your experience with heavy heads.
@@KevinsDisobedience I mean I'd be willing to cover postage 🤷♂️ just had a huge willow come down in the high winds at home. Ideal wood for it.
If you haven't seen it already, ben did a good video on chopping tips that really helped me when using heavier axes. Mostly its foot placement and practicing to fully extend your arms above your head and other little bits but it really was helpful.
Vid suggestion, make your own version of the lamaca work axe with a vintage jersey and hang/grind it to your preferences within similar parameters to the lamaca and see which does better.
If your serious about postage, I’d be glad to send it over. I won’t do anything else to it. Keep it for awhile and let me know what you think. DM me on Facebook if you want to send me your address. I’ll look for Bens video. I was attempting to fully extend the axe yesterday when I went out without camera. Have to get used to it thought. It throws my accuracy off some. I have a few other vintage builds in line first, but I will definitely give that a shot. I’ve never tried grinding out phantom bevels. Can’t imagine it’s difficult though.
Ship as they are
Because not that many people have the confidence nor the skill to hang an axe yet shaving it down to each preference is easier
It could just be an option. Like it used to be in the old axe mags. You could get it hung or unhung and save some money.
I wish I had the money to buy one of these 😿 May have to sell an axe 😈
This was a great video. I would definitely like to see a follow up after using it some more. I’d like to know if those phantom bevels are actually making a notable difference. Also i was expecting you to speak more on the void that it fills (weight and all that jazz). I feel like the handle took priority over more important subjects like: balance when felling and limbing, weight, freedom in the wood, and so on. We’re not really buying it for the handle. But to answer your question I would prefer they ship without a handle. Having said all that I understand this was more a first impressions video. Anyway, fantastic effort Kev. It was really helpful footage for discerning buyers.
Yeah, I realized after I shot it that I didn’t even talk about what it’s main competitors are, which I see as the Basque Racer, GB American Felling Axe, and perhaps Oxheads Work Axe. I think it’s too early for me to decide if it’s worth the money. For sure I could make any axe cut as good, so a lot of it is down to aesthetics and supporting a small company. Anyway, I actually shipped it off to Owen and Ben to test out for awhile. Get some guys who have used heavier axes more than I have to tell us what they think. So maybe look for them to put out a video soon.
Update: I’m sure you know by now, but after using it some more I decided it was too heavy and a little too long of a handle for an everyday work axe for me, so I sent it to Owen and we’re working out a trade. I think he wanted to hate it but really likes it now, so I’m going to let him keep it. He’ll use it more and can give the community better feed back than me. Tbh the balance is a little wonky; its that long beard, rolls a little too easy when felling. In short, I just found it wasn’t really a great “work axe”-that is to say, all rounder. It excels at bucking and is a fantastic limber but a little too heavy for most smaller limbs. It’ll do all tasks just fine, but I think it’s really a bucking machine for big, soft wood-exactly what Owen cuts. He complains it’s a little sticky at times, but hasn’t decided if it’s the wood he’s cutting or the axe. It is gorgeous though-no arguments there. Just rewatching this vid makes me miss it.
Disappointing that the handle is too thick for the money, definitely want more than just a little flex. Kinda pointless really that axe makers spend so much time finishing the handle with oils just to have to remove that, its extra cost. They should leave it plain because everybody remotely experienced will want to adjust a handle anyway. Head looks good though, seems to chop good. Small edge damage isn't a problem in my experience, you can see small lines in the wood after a cut from it but some of the timbersport guys train with axes with massive chips and dings in them and they still cut very deep. Overall I think it looks like a good axe but quite a lot more expensive than a Basque racer which I think would out cut it. Maybe that would be a good one to try next if you get the chance. Absolutely would prefer axes shipped unhung. I find cheap axes with thick axes fine, id rather extra meat to carve down to the perfect shape that suits me, council tool is a decent size but I actually like ochsenkopf more. Sure its thicker but Ive been able to make them really nice
Thanks for commenting, Ben. Yes it is disappointing, but it was too stiff out of the box. I’m actually surprised given what I could see from their smaller axes-the handles looked nice and thin. As you said, I wish manufactures would just leave them bare. The head and hang are fine. I’ve seen micro damage on a few of my axes at sub-20 and I’ve noticed no difference at all, so my experience is the same as far as it affecting performance. I’d rather have it at that acute angle and take minor damage than run it at a steeper grind. I guess the three main competitors for this axe are GB Felling Axe, Basque Racer, Oxhead’s Work Axe. I should have mention that in the video. I will have to try Basque’s Racer. The handle looks nice on those. You have any thoughts on Elm as a fuel source?
@@KevinsDisobedience We are on the same page. Elm is fine as firewood, some people are just wood snobs
They really are, aren’t they. A friend of mine sells cordwood. You should hear some of the questions he gets now that people are on the internet and burning wood is in vogue again. We both think it’s funny when someone asks what the Janka hardness is of a particular wood. I always just shrug and suggest the furnace doesn’t care, and neither will you when your family is cold this winter.
@@KevinsDisobedience ive heard people complain about oak 'its too difficult to light'. Lol
How thick is the handle?
Yeah - I agree - a bit more meat on the new handle is better. That way we can create our own shape that we prefer. Shipped hung is fine by me as long as they are hung better than STIHL axes! 🤣
Hey man, sorry never got notified by YT of your comment. Never owned a Stihl axe, but CT is pretty bad at hanging them as well-at least mine is.
Weighing in on the handle thickness - 19mm-21mm. Like the idea of hanging myself.
Right, at least the option of hanging ourselves.
Look your exe very very sharp
#1 ship head only
#2 Killinger is the standard.
Haha!!!!!
As I said last night during your livestream, I am amazed you can get us handles of that quality at that cost. When do you think you’ll have the next batch. I need a small eye for a 1934 Brades on something 25-28”.
It's a beautiful axe..but if the handle isnt comfortable..your less likely to use it..I would have no problem shaving it down.
Yep, my experience too. The handle is more than half the axe.
Unhung.
Slim/Shape to fit.
My thoughts exactly.
Butter first!
Only way it makes sense, right?
Not everyone has little piano hands boy,couldn’t watch the video lame ! I do like the axe 🪓
You have the same axe?
Doobly Doo
Hahaha hope you enjoyed
Def butter first
Right, just makes sense!
I like pre hung
What’s your favorite production axe right now?
Gransfors bruk sfa ik you don’t love it but so far it has preformed extremely well
Scandinavian not small
No worries about what I think. What do you use it for mostly?
I like the Scandinavian. I use it all the time.
Always butter first man. Any other way is just savagery
Have you ever met anyone that laid down jelly first?