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Great video. You’ve convinced me to invest in some chain mesh! So much better to be safe than sorry. Cheers

Husky is Swedish, not Swiss.

You pointed out expert's opinions on a couple points Where can i find such info? I love reading the opinions of the old timers and experts

hat last one looks almost like a Viking ax, designed for splitting helmets and heads, not for heavy wood cutting.

Good comments. I noticed that you didn't change hands from one side to the other. For me, that switch hitting goes back over fifty years and my muscle memory demands that I do it. If you can get comfortable with it you'll be more accurate when swinging from side to side in those field situations where obstacles interfere with your swing. Same applies to felling. Your cross angled hinge is the result of using your dominant hand from both sides of the tree. If you made your (shallower) face cut with your non-dominant hand, you could made the deeper back cut with your dominant hand and keep the hinge intact.

1300€.... Dude

Excellent excellent video! Very in depth.. I hate to split the eye with barrel wedges, the screw idea is great Grain on wedges.. I think driving it in., straight Grain better.. but short grained would take oil better, but straight grain safer overall

Look up concrete wedge anchors. I bet those would work.

"A piece of metal on a stick." Hard to hate that! The reason there are so many opinions is that there are so many variables - handle length, weight, steel, and hardening and tempering, bevel geometry, and all the rest. Then there's the timber and - oh yes, the strength and skill at the other end of that stick... Great video!

Do you think the 18” version would make a good large hatchet? Weight and balance wise…. Or would you stick with the 24”? I already have the 28” boys axe. Thanks in advance!!

I saw a replacement handle put in with JB Weld before. The dude was obviously buried with his axe!! I guess if the handle would have broken, it would require chiseling and Dremeling the eye interior. However, I don't think it would ever come loose! Next time I might be down for a coat of epoxy. Nothing ventured!!!

Is it a brick or are you calling it a brick? What is it, a whetstone?

I used to use Snow &Nealy

Only 1 step has been forgotten in this short Vid. Best way to square file is to round file, clean up the gullet and the unnecessary material between the raker and the cutter.

so they dull out fast , but most people say they can last 20 years???? Is this true?

What happened to your middle finger on your left hand?

That last axe rings like a machete in hard dead wood... I'm not used to that in an axe.

Heck yeah, nice work Kevin. Looks like you’d be able to limb and buck some yet. That’s pretty good for battery. Continuous load is definitely a battery killer I own one of the green works 60v - 16inch bar saws. Couldn’t be happier. The perfect saw to leave in the trunk of a car for emergencies. Also great for clearing brush and doing trails. Super lightweight. Louder than you’d think though.

Very nice. I have seen people use a tire to achieve the same thing

I'm impressed with my Husqvarna 120i for general down blow, small diameter limbing and bucking.

if you bought a used 500i would you go with stock or one like yours? fyi I have 67cc Stihl 400 also I bought a Stihl 044 in 1991 or so and she runs fine

I never see people trying to split pecan. Even the dudes who base their videos on splitting tough stuff

👍👍👍

Clean cuts! I like it🤙🏻

Perfect explanation ✊

Well that worked out well!

I've seen a lot about the gransfors mauls. It's a little pricey, though, and several places are out of stock or having waiting lists for purchase. Hope you enjoy it!

This wood is no joke to split. Good job Kevin.

it can do it. i use an electric top handle and love it. now i wouldn't use it on any heavy leaner or anything bigger than you did just cause it cut slow. its just more risk for barber chair and what not but they definitely have their place

You got it down safe. Good job buddy.

Estwing all the way

Good demo!

Nice. Helmet design looks cool against the snow as well.

What's the cc equivalent to that saw your using?

Brandy looks like because of the lenght, the handle might be better braught more forward to stop it from tipping over too much.

But will the saw cut the whole tree on the same charge?

Axe/saw combo, well applied. If you make a second saw undercut 3"- 4" above your first and not as deep, the face will chop out easier (bishop notch). Felling is an overhead exercise and a hardhat is even more important than the chain mail socks, though the ones you have look pretty cool.

Winter we usually get dnow that don't melt. 2025 lucky you're getting it this month

At 3:34, I love that ringing!

Nice video

Nice work! Thank you for sharing!

Kevin, great to see some axe content from you! I had a lot of edge damage on my biber Canada 1000 recently. I filed it to 17.5 with a small microbevel and had a few nasty chips after chopping some black locust. Of course, I did pick one of the worst woods to try it on lol. Steel files really nice though; only took a couple minutes to dress it up. Sitting at 20 degrees now, but I miss the extra slicey-ness it had before! My go to axe has been the Rinaldi Calabria 750, hung on a 75cm (29in) basque haft. I filed it to 17.5 and added a raw-hide collar to protect the handle. Super light, but that bit length and wedge profile makes chopping a dream. Sounds like you are drawn to the basques for that reason. Hope you’re doing well!

What’s your insta?

I don't know how you did it! Slave labour!

How long/short is this handle on basque axe??

Love the materials on this bag

i just bought 3 2.75kg splitting axes. 2 moon bits, 1 straight bit. I noticed bushcraft doesn't sell the straight bits anymore, but Lamina does.

Now that you zoomed in, the axe bit looks really similar to the Council Tools Velvicut line of axes.

I bought a racing axe and it shattered within 30 strikes on the day of purchase. Mind you I was running it through knotty hard wood and I think they are meant for clean soft wood. Regardless, the failure looked like there was an issue with the forging/ heat treating of the bit. The Failure point was at the the top edge of the bit, as that's where we were specifically trying to strike with to split. I don't know if this helps, the axe I had purchased was "Ox Head OX 440 H-2708 Champion Axe with Hickory Handle, 3300g", and KCTool is working with me on getting it either replaced or refunded for the failure. Now mind you I was using my axe to split hardwoods, using the reasoning that the heavier head will generate more force upon impact and the axe profile would allow it to penetrate much deeper than say a 8lb maul. What I have been using and what I would recommend you is a Council Tools Velvicut 4lb Felling axe with a 36" handle, or use their 6lb Forcible Entry Axe FE36 for splitting. You can buy both at Harry J Epstein's website. The Velvicut will cost you just under $200 and the 6lb Forcible Entry Axe is just under $80. I own both axes and can attest that both are great. I posted the links to both axes below. I hope this helps you or anyone else for that matter... 4lb Velvicut Axe: www.harryepstein.com/products/velvicut-4-lb-premium-felling-axe-with-sheath?_pos=3&_sid=d828e58dd&_ss=r 6lb FE axe: www.harryepstein.com/products/council-tool-forcible-entry-6lb-flathead-fire-axe-36-handle-60fms36c?_pos=25&_sid=15e50bd44&_ss=r

Who is Matt? Many of us don’t have any context bro.