What further questions do you have? Caseta Wireless Dimmer Deluxe Kit: amzn.to/2SC3vO0 00:19 Introduction to Caseta Wireless by Lutron 02:08 Smart Bridge Setup 03:00 3-Way Dimmer Switch Install 05:12 3-Way Pico Remote Install 06:24 Fan Control Light Switch 06:07 Single Pole Dimmer Switch 09:14 Connecting Lights to Lutron App 10:48 Google Assistant 11:48 Amazon Alexa 12:31 Apple HomeKit 13:29 SmartThings Compatibility 14:22 Operating the Dimmer Switch & Fan Control 19:15 Lutron App Extras 20:06 Final Thoughts
Hi Brett i have the same question for fan/smart bulb. i also have another question, do we need to set up the smart bridge before wiring the dimmers etc.. or it can be done after the installation of the dimmers and pico
@@mikailtelly Setting up the Bridge can be done after after you have all of the lights installed. Then just for through and add them all one at a time.
I'm a bit late to the party but, Hubitat has a driver for the Arora where you can pair it with any Zigbee bulb and you can even cycle through the color instead of dim them. Your choice.
I have a fan that currently has a wall switch with buttons on it and I’m assuming a receiver in the canopy above the fan. Does this switch work with other existing receivers that may be inside the Canopy cover above the fan? Or would you have to remove that with the old wall switch? Thanks
The fan problems are because you just have the fan run from one power wire right? The light and fan are not wired separately, right? That could be done though, right? If you hold the bottom button will it do slow dim to off (10-15 seconds) like some other Lutron switches (Ra, etc.)?
I just installed some today, saw this video afterwards. A good point to mention is that the light switches are one of very few that also don't need a neutral wire. Thats why I bought them, I got an old house. They work great and able to use them at the switch or ask alexa to turn them on. No need to have your switch always on. It can be a hassle when you uses the switch you have to turn it off then on again then ask alexa to turn them off. however they dont work with amazon basics brand led bulbs, they just rapidly flicker.
Awesome video Brett. As someone who has been using them for a while, i can really get behind their implementation. The hub is pretty minimal and if you have shades too like myself, then its a breeze to have everything running seamless! Thanks for always helping and providing good insight!
Hey, Brett. As always, I appreciate your videos, which help give me ideas and inspiration. I have a Smartthings hub that I recently installed, and a few smart lights. I want to install some smart switches, and need to ask a clarification question: Do I need to install Lutron's bridge, or can I just use my ST hub without their bridge? Please help, and thanks.
Hi there. I have a two gang light switch in my kitchen:- one controlling the kitchen light and the other the dining light. However, I also have a one-gang light switch at the other end of the room controlling both lights. Can I install one caseta wireless dimmer in the one-gang switch to jointly control both lights and install two pico remotes in the two-gang switch to individually control each light? Thanks.
I have these also but it only works with my voice, when I try to add my other family members google nest does not see the lutron bridge. Do you know how to set this up?
Hi Brett, need to change out my light switch in bathroom for shower/vanity light and bath fan which has 2 switches to control each, how do I complete that without a dimmer switch unfortunately.
Great review. My only issue is that in my house the utility closet with the network switch is downstairs and all my fans are upstairs, or on the 2nd level. What is the range of this thing? Are there extenders I would need to purchase? Thanks!
Brett, thanks for the info. If the internet goes down, but the local network is still functional, can the hub still control all the lights locally? I.e. what are the critical points of failure?
If i have wifi, if i only have one switch... what is the advantage of having a bridge if I have a smartphone? I thought I could use my apple/smartphone to control?
For the Caseta smart light switches, the bridge is required to connect the switch to the internet as these specific switches don't have wifi, they use a different signal. So if you already have this switch, setting up the bridge let's you use if from your phone. If you don't have the switch yet, they're are many wifi switches available that you can pick from.
You're mistaken as was I until learning a little more about networking, you certainly do want a bridge. To put it layman's terms, your "bridge" essentially takes the load off what would be many WiFi devices (say if you had Philips Hue throughout your house and each was on WiFI) bogging down the network and funneling all data transmission through a bridge instead of having dozens of WiFi devices you have one, if that makes sense.
I have to install 5 led under counter lights in the kitchen. They all have separate switches as it's not possible to wire them all together to one switch. Is it possible to put these dimmers on each one and then operate them from one Peco remote? That would be optimum. I don't think I need to operate them with a phone, just the remote on a wall somewhere would be fine.
Thanks for the video. My question is regarding the Pico Remote. Can they be used separately from the main dimmer switch? Let's say on another light or do they have to work in conjunction with the main dimmer switch on one light fixture? Thank You.
Are you able to use this for lights with multiple switches? If not what smart switch options are there that can function with multiple switches for one light?
I have been using Caseta dimmers for over 5 years and it's been a hit and miss depending on what you're dimming. Caseta dimmers work but are limited by their outdated, analogue dimming circuitry which Lutron has been using for well over 30 years. It's old and inefficient technology that's very limited. Expect to loose about 12% of your supply voltage to the dimmer's antiquated technology. It was really noticeable back in the Halogen lighting days with Lutron's previous dimmer lines and still noticeable now with the Caseta line when you use higher end LED PAR20, PAR30 and PAR38 LEDs with a super high output and high CRI. What you see with a voltage meter at the e26 socket with the dimmer at full setting is around 103V to 106V on a 120V supply which ends up taking the edge off high performance LED lights and making them look average. If you are only using average, middle of the road LEDs and/or almost always dimming them, then it's no problem as you won't miss having 12% less light output at the top to begin with. How Lutron can call these 'smart light controls' when they are still using 30+ year old analogue dimming technology is beyond embarrassing. Why not go completely digital when the light sources these days are for the most part digital?
What further questions do you have?
Caseta Wireless Dimmer Deluxe Kit: amzn.to/2SC3vO0
00:19 Introduction to Caseta Wireless by Lutron
02:08 Smart Bridge Setup
03:00 3-Way Dimmer Switch Install
05:12 3-Way Pico Remote Install
06:24 Fan Control Light Switch
06:07 Single Pole Dimmer Switch
09:14 Connecting Lights to Lutron App
10:48 Google Assistant
11:48 Amazon Alexa
12:31 Apple HomeKit
13:29 SmartThings Compatibility
14:22 Operating the Dimmer Switch & Fan Control
19:15 Lutron App Extras
20:06 Final Thoughts
Hi Brett why dont you put a smart bulb in the fan instead of wiring another line?
Is there a version without neutral wire?
Nice video!
Hi Brett i have the same question for fan/smart bulb. i also have another question, do we need to set up the smart bridge before wiring the dimmers etc.. or it can be done after the installation of the dimmers and pico
@@mikailtelly Setting up the Bridge can be done after after you have all of the lights installed. Then just for through and add them all one at a time.
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I'm a bit late to the party but, Hubitat has a driver for the Arora where you can pair it with any Zigbee bulb and you can even cycle through the color instead of dim them. Your choice.
I have a fan that currently has a wall switch with buttons on it and I’m assuming a receiver in the canopy above the fan.
Does this switch work with other existing receivers that may be inside the Canopy cover above the fan? Or would you have to remove that with the old wall switch? Thanks
The fan problems are because you just have the fan run from one power wire right? The light and fan are not wired separately, right? That could be done though, right? If you hold the bottom button will it do slow dim to off (10-15 seconds) like some other Lutron switches (Ra, etc.)?
I just installed some today, saw this video afterwards. A good point to mention is that the light switches are one of very few that also don't need a neutral wire. Thats why I bought them, I got an old house. They work great and able to use them at the switch or ask alexa to turn them on. No need to have your switch always on. It can be a hassle when you uses the switch you have to turn it off then on again then ask alexa to turn them off. however they dont work with amazon basics brand led bulbs, they just rapidly flicker.
That is a very good point that I forgot to mention! Hopefully you can find some bulbs that work.
Any update on your lighting solution with that fan switch?
So watching this I see that the ceiling fan and ceiling fan light cannot work independently?
Correct. You would need your fan to be on its own Switch.
What’s the solution if your fan also has a light you want to control as well?
Awesome video Brett. As someone who has been using them for a while, i can really get behind their implementation. The hub is pretty minimal and if you have shades too like myself, then its a breeze to have everything running seamless! Thanks for always helping and providing good insight!
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In this project We don't use lutron adaptive or switch modules so we dont need that modules . Am i right?
Hey, Brett. As always, I appreciate your videos, which help give me ideas and inspiration. I have a Smartthings hub that I recently installed, and a few smart lights. I want to install some smart switches, and need to ask a clarification question: Do I need to install Lutron's bridge, or can I just use my ST hub without their bridge? Please help, and thanks.
Hi there. I have a two gang light switch in my kitchen:- one controlling the kitchen light and the other the dining light. However, I also have a one-gang light switch at the other end of the room controlling both lights. Can I install one caseta wireless dimmer in the one-gang switch to jointly control both lights and install two pico remotes in the two-gang switch to individually control each light? Thanks.
I have these also but it only works with my voice, when I try to add my other family members google nest does not see the lutron bridge. Do you know how to set this up?
Hi Brett, need to change out my light switch in bathroom for shower/vanity light and bath fan which has 2 switches to control each, how do I complete that without a dimmer switch unfortunately.
Great review. My only issue is that in my house the utility closet with the network switch is downstairs and all my fans are upstairs, or on the 2nd level. What is the range of this thing? Are there extenders I would need to purchase? Thanks!
Only the best reviews! Brett can you try to use a Xiaomi fan, or a Xiaomi vacuum and show how to use Google Home with. Thanks
so there is no way to have it control a fan with lights attached to it and have it work well?
Nice video. Assuming the pico remote has a battery, how long does it last?
The website says the battery should last around 9-10 years depending on use.
Does its support 230 volt ?
Good tutorial
Brett, thanks for the info. If the internet goes down, but the local network is still functional, can the hub still control all the lights locally? I.e. what are the critical points of failure?
If i have wifi, if i only have one switch... what is the advantage of having a bridge if I have a smartphone? I thought I could use my apple/smartphone to control?
For the Caseta smart light switches, the bridge is required to connect the switch to the internet as these specific switches don't have wifi, they use a different signal. So if you already have this switch, setting up the bridge let's you use if from your phone. If you don't have the switch yet, they're are many wifi switches available that you can pick from.
Uggg, another bridge. lol I need a homekit fan control with no bridge.
Yeah... After a quick search it looks like this is the main option.
You're mistaken as was I until learning a little more about networking, you certainly do want a bridge. To put it layman's terms, your "bridge" essentially takes the load off what would be many WiFi devices (say if you had Philips Hue throughout your house and each was on WiFI) bogging down the network and funneling all data transmission through a bridge instead of having dozens of WiFi devices you have one, if that makes sense.
its work with 230V?
i seen your wemo review and install which one do you perfer. WEMO or LUTRON
On the caseta system, can I just have 1 smart light on a 2 way system?so I wouldn't need to swap out both lights, just 1 like the wemo.
good video!
I have to install 5 led under counter lights in the kitchen. They all have separate switches as it's not possible to wire them all together to one switch. Is it possible to put these dimmers on each one and then operate them from one Peco remote? That would be optimum. I don't think I need to operate them with a phone, just the remote on a wall somewhere would be fine.
Yes this can be done in the app
Which tool did you use to check the power is out?
Thanks for the video. My question is regarding the Pico Remote. Can they be used separately from the main dimmer switch? Let's say on another light or do they have to work in conjunction with the main dimmer switch on one light fixture? Thank You.
They can be setup to control any of the Caséta switches you have in the home. So all the lights or just a specific set or just one.
@@TechWithBrett thank you for the quick reply. So much to think about when starting a smart home setup. Over load!!!
Wish you could use this in the UK
if i have smartthings hub i will need to buy the bridge? does that bridge works with zig-bee or z-wave?
Hi Brett how you check out the sonoff ifan02 it can control both the light and fan at the same time
That's nice & great review...
Very good video!!
Are you able to use this for lights with multiple switches? If not what smart switch options are there that can function with multiple switches for one light?
Yes this is a good option because you can change the 3 way into a single switch and then use the Pico remote to control from different locations.
Brett what is that unit on you have up on the ceiling in the hallway?
The AC unit? It is a swamp cooler we no longer use.
Do I need smart lights to control them ?!
No, the switch controls the lights.
is it good idea to have this with philps hue
You could if you want control of the color of light as well.
Good video man it help me oh by the way I’m not a grandpa or 16 years old
I have been using Caseta dimmers for over 5 years and it's been a hit and miss depending on what you're dimming.
Caseta dimmers work but are limited by their outdated, analogue dimming circuitry which Lutron has been using for well over 30 years. It's old and inefficient technology that's very limited. Expect to loose about 12% of your supply voltage to the dimmer's antiquated technology. It was really noticeable back in the Halogen lighting days with Lutron's previous dimmer lines and still noticeable now with the Caseta line when you use higher end LED PAR20, PAR30 and PAR38 LEDs with a super high output and high CRI. What you see with a voltage meter at the e26 socket with the dimmer at full setting is around 103V to 106V on a 120V supply which ends up taking the edge off high performance LED lights and making them look average.
If you are only using average, middle of the road LEDs and/or almost always dimming them, then it's no problem as you won't miss having 12% less light output at the top to begin with. How Lutron can call these 'smart light controls' when they are still using 30+ year old analogue dimming technology is beyond embarrassing. Why not go completely digital when the light sources these days are for the most part digital?
What brands of LED lights do you consider "high performance"? What smart dimmer brands are digital and don't suffer a voltage drop?
9th comment great video, also may you review all the best products vs SimpliSafe because those brands I am debateing to buy
I want you to email me is that fine with you
Fan controller sucks! Lutron needs to improve it.